Method for treating keratin fibers using a composition containing at least two different specific fatty acids and having a low silicone content

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition containing two different specific fatty acids and having a low silicone content.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and having a low silicone content. [Background technology]

[0002] Hair becomes damaged and weakened by external atmospheric agents, such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, hair dyes, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, and repeated washing. Thus, the hair becomes damaged and, over time, becomes dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split, and / or soft or sensitive to humidity, making the hair unmanageable, often accompanied by frizz, and / or difficult to style in humid environments, especially very humid environments.

[0003] Therefore, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common to resort to hair treatments that utilize compositions intended to adequately condition the hair by imparting satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular a soft feel (the hair is no longer coarse), good detangling properties that lead to easy combing, and good manageability of the hair that makes it easy to style.

[0004] However, these hair treatments, which are often based on silicone-based starting materials, can leave hair feeling greasy and heavy, and are not always comfortable for the user. Furthermore, these hair treatments have little or no effect on regulating the volume of keratin fibers and / or maintaining hairstyle and / or hair discipline in humid or very humid environments. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] Therefore, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment method that can improve these drawbacks and maintain or even improve the fiber quality, in particular softness, ease of detangling, smoothness, discipline and / or luster, and that can persistently limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume in a wet environment, in order to facilitate styling of the hair in a wet environment.Such a method should ideally not use silicone-based starting materials.

[0006] Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the invention. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (I): [ka] (In formula (I), R 1 teeth, - optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR a or combinations thereof, for example, —O—CO—, —(CO)—O—, —NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a - represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from; or - Hydroxyl (-OH) or R b -(CO)- represents a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from; R arepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); R b (C2~C 10 ) represents an alkyl group 1. A method for treating keratinous fibers, comprising a step i) of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition (C) comprising at least two different compounds D independently selected from the compound of formula (I), its salts, its isomers, and solvates, such as hydrates, thereof, and mixtures thereof; The salts of the compounds of formula (I) are selected from monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I), preferably alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and It is understood that composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0008] According to a second aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (C) as defined above.

[0009] According to a third aspect, a subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above for caring for keratinous fibers, preferably for giving them a soft and / or smooth feel and / or shine, more preferentially for giving them a soft and / or smooth feel.

[0010] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above to protect keratinous fibers from humidity, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume in a humid environment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] For purposes of this invention, unless otherwise specified:

[0012] The term "keratinous fibers" means fibers of human or animal origin, such as scalp hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, Angora goat hair, cashmere or fur. According to the invention, the keratinous fibers are preferably human keratinous fibers, more preferentially scalp hair.

[0013] The term "alkyl group" means a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0014] · "(C x ~C y The term "alkyl group" means an alkyl group containing x to y carbon atoms.

[0015] "Hydroxy (C x ~C y The term "alkyl group" refers to a group in which at least one of its hydrogen atoms is optionally replaced by a hydroxyl (-OH) group (C x ~C y ) alkyl group. Therefore, (hydroxy)(C x ~C y ) alkyl group is (C x ~C y ) alkyl group or hydroxyl group (C x ~C y) alkyl groups, i.e., groups in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced by a hydroxyl (—OH) group (C x ~C y ) represents an alkyl group.

[0016] "Di(hydroxy)(C x ~C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to a compound having two (hydroxyl)(C x ~C y ) alkyl group, and the above (hydroxyl) (C x ~C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0017] "Tri(hydroxy)(C x ~C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to the alkyl group consisting of three (hydroxyl)(C x ~C y ) alkyl group, and the above (hydroxyl) (C x ~C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0018] Tetra(hydroxy)(C x ~C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to the four (hydroxyl) (C x ~C y ) alkyl group, and the above (hydroxyl) (C x ~C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0019] The term "(hetero)cyclic group" means a cyclic group or a heterocyclic group.

[0020] The term "cyclic group" means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused, saturated or unsaturated, especially aromatic, polycyclic carbocyclic ring containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, which can be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, especially selected from (C1-C6) alkyl, (C1-C6) alkoxy, (C1-C6) (poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0021] The term "heterocyclic group" means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused, saturated or unsaturated, especially aromatic polycyclic group containing 5 to 22 ring members and containing 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atoms, which heterocyclic group can be substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected in particular from (C1-C6) alkyl, (C1-C6) alkoxy, (C1-C6) (poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0022] The term "unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group" means a hydrocarbon-based group that contains one or more conjugated or non-conjugated ethylenic double bonds.

[0023] The term "isomer" means an optical isomer, a geometric isomer or a tautomer.

[0024] The terms "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

[0025] Method for treating keratin fibers According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratinous fibers as defined above.

[0026] Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the method according to the invention makes it possible to maintain or even improve the fibre quality, in particular the softness, detangling, smoothness and / or discipline and / or shine, and to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume in a humid environment, thus making it easier to style the hair in a humid environment.

[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) include salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts and tetra(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, di(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, tri(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, preferably salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, R 1 is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR a or combinations thereof, for example, —O—CO—, —(CO)—O—, —NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a - represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0029] According to one embodiment, composition (C) does not comprise a salt of a compound of formula (I) as defined above.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, is in non-salt form.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the different compounds D are in non-salt form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salt form to the total amount of another different compound D in non-salt form in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

[0032] If composition (C) comprises three or more different compounds D in non-salt form, it is sufficient for the molar ratio between two of these different compounds D to vary from 0.25 to 4 in order to meet this criterion.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D is in non-salt form and at least one of the different compounds D is in salt form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salt form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salt form in composition (C) is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

[0034] If composition (C) comprises three or more different compounds D in non-salt form and / or three or more different compounds D in salt form, it is sufficient to fulfill this criterion if the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salt form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salt form is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

[0035] Composition (C) preferably comprises not more than 5 different compounds D, more preferentially not more than 4 different compounds D, even more preferentially not more than 3 different compounds D, and even better not more than 2 different compounds D, independently selected from compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, and solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compound D is selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, and solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0037] [Table 1]

[0038] [Table 2]

[0039] [Table 3]

[0040] [Table 4]

[0041] [Table 5]

[0042] [Table 6]

[0043] [Table 7]

[0044] [Table 8]

[0045] According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compound D is selected from compounds 1 to 17, 20, 31, 32 or 36, their salts, their isomers and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the different compound D is selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] According to a preferred variant, the different compound D is selected from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their isomers and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are preferably selected from the following compounds 1′ to 11′, their isomers and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0049] [Table 9]

[0050] [Table 10]

[0051] [Table 11]

[0052] (In the formula, X + is a salt of a monovalent cation, preferably an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an ammonium salt, a tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferentially salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10) represents a monovalent cation derived from a salt selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof).

[0053] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are more preferentially selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, where X + is a salt of an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an ammonium salt, a tetra(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, di(C1-C 10 ) alkyl ammonium salts, tri(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are even more preferentially selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, in which X + Na + , K. + , NH4 + , or tetra (C1~C 10 ) represents an alkylammonium ion.

[0055] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are more preferentially selected from the following compounds 1″ to 13″, their isomers and solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0056] [Table 12]

[0057] [Table 13]

[0058] [Table 14]

[0059] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are selected from compounds 5″, 6″, their isomers and solvates, such as hydrates, thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferentially in the range from 0.1% to 100% by weight, for example 100% by weight or in the range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from the following combinations of compounds: a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1; a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1; a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably between 0.25 and 0.7, and more preferentially 1 / 3; a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1; a combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) is preferably equal to 4 / 1.

[0062] According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from the following combinations of compounds: a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1; a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1; a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably between 0.25 and 0.7, and more preferentially 1 / 3; a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1.

[0063] According to the most preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably in the range of 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferentially equal to 1 / 3.

[0064] When composition (C) comprises one of the combinations of two compounds described above, the total content of the combination present in composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferentially at least 0.05% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 100% by weight, for example 100% by weight, or between 0.5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0065] Other characteristics of composition (C) Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, ie a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie a medium compatible with human keratinous fibers.

[0066] The composition (C) may preferably contain water in a total content ranging from 0.1% by mass to 90% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C); and even better still, composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0068] Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be introduced, inter alia, by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts of water.

[0069] The pH of composition (C) is preferably in the range of 2 to 11, more preferably in the range of 3 to 9. This pH may be adjusted using an organic or inorganic acid or an organic or inorganic base commonly used in cosmetics.

[0070] Composition (C) may comprise one or more organic solvents selected from C2 to C4 alcohols, ethers, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] When present in composition (C), this or these organic solvents may be present in composition (C) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably from 30% by mass to 95% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C).

[0072] Composition (C) is preferably liquid.

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" refers to a product that, on a macroscopic scale, does not have a shape of its own and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid that conforms to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25°C). When poured into another container, a liquid retains its volume. Thus, a liquid has a volume of its own. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal.

[0074] Composition (C) may be in any application form conventionally used for hair care applications, including, but not limited to, the form of a lotion, serum, cream, mousse, gel, spray or lacquer.

[0075] Composition (C) can be used for rinse-off or leave-on applications.

[0076] Composition (C) may be in the form of a mask, a conditioning composition or a pre-shampoo. Composition (C) may also be in the form of a composition that is added to or mixed with a mask or conditioning composition before application.

[0077] Composition (C) can be packaged in a pump bottle or an aerosol container to apply composition (C) in the form of a vapor (lacquer) or foam, in which case composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of colorants of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; even more preferentially, the composition is free of colorants.

[0079] The term "colorant" means an oxidative dye, a direct dye or a pigment.

[0080] The term "oxidation dye" refers to an oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers, which are colorless or low-color compounds that undergo a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent to give a colored species.

[0081] The term "direct dyes" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, including those in the form of extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that end up on the surface of the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e., anionic, cationic, neutral, or non-ionic.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight and most preferentially less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is silicone-free.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C); and even better still, composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

[0084] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (containing no silicon atoms) that contains cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and does not contain any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even better less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C); and even better still, composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

[0087] As an example of a poly(oxyethylenated) compound that may be mentioned, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0088] Composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratinous fibers, preferably wet keratinous fibers.

[0089] The liquor ratio of the composition (C) applied to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.02 to 10. The term "liquor ratio" means the ratio between the total mass of the applied composition (C) and the total mass of the treated keratinous fibers.

[0090] This method includes step i) followed by the following steps ii) to iv): ii) applying the composition (C) to the keratinous fibers, preferably for at least 10 seconds, optionally carried out under an airtight film of the wrapper or plastic film type; iii) rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device The method may include at least one additional step selected from:

[0091] Preferably, the method comprises the above additional steps ii) and iv), carried out in that order.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the method comprises all of the above additional steps ii), iii) and iv), performed in that order.

[0093] The step of applying the composition (C) may last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0094] The temperature of the heating device may range from 45° C. to 230° C., preferably from 45° C. to 100° C., more preferentially from 50° C. to 80° C. A hair tri-ear, a heating hood, an iron or a heated brush may, for example, be used as heating device.

[0095] Drying step iv) can also be a combination of drying with air or with a heating device, such as a hair dryer or a heating hood, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C, which may be followed by an ironing step, preferably using a straightening iron.

[0096] Step i) and optionally steps ii)-iv) may be repeated as many times as necessary, with each cycle of steps being spaced apart from the next by minutes to days or weeks. Different hair treatments of the present invention may be performed between, before or after different application cycles.

[0097] Composition (C) According to a second aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (C) as defined above.

[0098] use According to a third aspect, a subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above for caring for keratinous fibers, preferably for giving them a soft and / or smooth feel and / or shine, more preferentially for giving them a soft and / or smooth feel.

[0099] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above to protect keratinous fibers from humidity, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume in a humid environment. [Example]

[0100] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention, but are not limiting in nature.

[0101] The following compositions C1 to C4 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below.

[0102] [Table 15]

[0103] Method for preparing composition C1 Weigh 1 mole of lauric acid into a flask and add 3 moles of oleic acid to it.

[0104] The mixture was stirred at 70°C for 1 hour. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature while stirring. The resulting product was a clear, colorless, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0105] Method for preparing composition C2 Weigh 1 mole of lauric acid into a flask and add 3 moles of caprylic acid to it.

[0106] The mixture was stirred at 70°C for 1 hour. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature while stirring. The resulting product was a clear, colorless, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0107] Method for preparing composition C3 Weigh 1 mole of lauric acid into a flask and add 2 moles of capric acid to it.

[0108] The mixture was stirred at 70°C for 1 hour. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature while stirring. The resulting product was a clear, colorless, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0109] Method for preparing composition C4 Weigh out 1 mole of caprylic acid into a flask and add 1 mole of capric acid to it.

[0110] The mixture was stirred at 70°C for 1 hour. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature while stirring. The resulting product was a clear, colorless, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0111] Example 1: Evaluation of hairstyle hold in a humid environment Hairstyle hold, i.e. frizz formation and volume increase in a humid environment, was evaluated for compositions C1, C2 and C4 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0112] Used hair bundle A 2.7 g tress of Brazilian hair with type IV curls, 27 cm in length, was used.

[0113] Evaluation Protocol: The tresses were washed with DOP shampoo (0.4g per gram of hair) before applying the test composition.

[0114] 81 mg of each test composition was then applied to separate wet hair tresses, pre-squeezed and patted onto absorbent paper, the application being done with the fingers while massaging the hair fibres.

[0115] The tresses were then combed, detangled and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity and 25°C for 2 hours.

[0116] The tresses were then placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity and 25°C for 24 hours.

[0117] Volume and frizz measurements were made by measuring the width of the tress at mid-height and compared with the values ​​obtained for a reference tress not treated with a composition according to the invention.

[0118] Evaluation results The measurements of tuft width (cm) at mid-height are summarized in the table below.

[0119] [Table 16]

[0120] It can be seen that the values ​​of the width of the tress at mid-height are lower for the tresses treated with the method according to the invention than for the reference tresses.

[0121] The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to limit the formation of frizz and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials.

[0122] Example 2: Evaluation of "smooth feel" by friction test The surface of natural hair is perceived as smooth, i.e., having a low coefficient of friction, whereas the surface of damaged hair is perceived as rough, i.e., having a high coefficient of friction.

[0123] Damaging hair treatments such as dyeing and bleaching are known to increase the coefficient of friction of hair.

[0124] As a result, the lower the coefficient of friction of the hair, the better the feel of the restored hair, and the easier it is to comb and detangle under both dry and wet conditions.

[0125] The "smooth feel" was evaluated for composition C1 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0126] Used hair bundle For this test, 3.5 cm long bleached Caucasian hair tresses (alkali solubility AS22) were used.

[0127] Evaluation Protocol: In this test, a 3.5 cm long hair bundle is fixed in the specimen holder of a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measurement cell. A normal force of 0.5 N is applied to the hair bundle using forceps covered with disposable plastic foam. The foam is replaced after each measurement. The testing machine applies a constant speed of 100 mm / min to remove the hair bundle from the forceps. During removal, the force required to remove the hair is measured as a function of displacement. The resulting force / displacement curve is characterized by a plateau at the end of the stroke, and the average force at the plateau is recorded. The effect of hair treatment on the frictional properties is determined by comparing the average force at the plateau of the reference hair bundle with the average force at the plateau of the treated hair bundle.

[0128] For measurements in the dry state (dry friction), the hair is conditioned at 25° C. and 45% relative humidity.

[0129] For wet measurements (wet friction), the hair bundle is immersed in demineralized water for 1 minute before measurement.

[0130] Composition C1 was applied according to the leave-on protocol described below, and then dry and wet measurements were taken according to the protocol described above.

[0131] In this way, the force ratio between treated and untreated hair: F 処理 (N) / F 未処理 (N) was determined.

[0132] Leave-On Protocol 1) Wash hair tresses with DOP shampoo using a bath ratio of 0.4g per 1g of hair; 2) Comb the hair strands; 3) Applying the composition to the hair while it is still wet at a bath ratio of 0.15 g per 1 g of hair with no leave-on time; 4) Dry the hair bundle at room temperature (22°C).

[0133] result The measurement results are summarized in the table below.

[0134] [Table 17]

[0135] Compared with untreated hair, the hair treated by the method according to the present invention has lower friction force on dry and wet hair.Even without silicone-based starting material, the hair surface is smoother.Compared with untreated hair, treated hair is softer and easier to comb and detangle.

[0136] Example 3: Evaluation of hairstyle hold in a humid environment The following compositions C5 to C8 were prepared, all amounts being expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] [Table 18]

[0138] Hairstyle hold, ie frizz formation and volume increase in a humid environment, was evaluated for compositions C5 to C8 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0139] Used hair bundle A 2.7 g tress of Brazilian hair with type IV curls, 27 cm in length, was used.

[0140] Evaluation Protocol: The tresses were washed with DOP shampoo (0.4g per gram of hair) before applying the test composition.

[0141] 81 mg of each test composition was then applied to separate wet hair tresses, pre-squeezed and patted onto absorbent paper, the application being done with the fingers while massaging the hair fibres.

[0142] The tresses were then combed, detangled and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity and 25°C for 2 hours.

[0143] The tresses were then placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity and 25°C for 24 hours.

[0144] Volume and frizz measurements were made by measuring the width of the tress at mid-height and compared with the values ​​obtained for a reference tress not treated with a composition according to the invention.

[0145] Evaluation results The measurements of tuft width (cm) at mid-height are summarized in the table below.

[0146] [Table 19]

[0147] It can be seen that the tress width values ​​at mid-height are lower for the tresses treated by the method according to the invention than for the comparative and reference tresses.

[0148] The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to limit the formation of frizz and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials.

Claims

1. Formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 (In formula (I): ・R １ teeth, - Hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), carboxyl (—COOH), (hetero)cyclic rings such as phenyl, and / or -O—, -CO—, -NR ａ or a combination thereof, for example, —O—CO—, —(CO)—O—, —NR ａ -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR ａ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from: - hydroxyl (-OH) or R ｂ -(CO)- represents a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from; ・R ａ is a hydrogen atom, (-OH), amino (-NH ２ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from alkyl (-C, alkyl aryl) or carboxyl (-COOH); ・R ｂ is (C ２ ~C １０ ) represents an alkyl group) 1. A method for treating keratinous fibers, comprising a step i) of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition (C) comprising at least two different compounds D independently selected from the compound of formula (I), its salts, its isomers, and solvates, such as hydrates, thereof, and mixtures thereof; The salts of the compounds of formula (I) are selected from monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I), preferably alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C １ ~C １０ ) alkyl ammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C １ ~C １０ ) alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C １ ~C １０ ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C １ ~C １０ ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and A process in which it is understood that composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).

2. R １ However, hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), carboxyl (—COOH), (hetero)cyclic rings such as phenyl, and / or -O—, -CO—, -NR ａ or a combination thereof, for example, —O—CO—, —(CO)—O—, —NR ａ -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR ａ - represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from

3. 3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, is in a non-salt form.

4. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least two of said different compounds D are in non-salt form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of said different compounds D in non-salt form to the total amount of another of said different compounds D in non-salt form in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

5. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least one of said different compounds D is in non-salt form and at least one of said different compounds D is in salt form, and wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of one of said different compounds D in non-salt form to the total amount of one of said different compounds D in salt form in composition (C) is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

6. 6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein composition (C) comprises not more than 5 different compounds D, preferably not more than 4 different compounds D, more preferentially not more than 3 different compounds D, and even more preferentially not more than 2 different compounds D.

7. The different compound D is selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates such as hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof: Table 1 Table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Table 5 Table 6 Table 7 Table 8 Preferably, it is selected from compounds 1 to 17, 20, 31, 32 or 36, salts thereof, isomers thereof, and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound is selected, more preferentially, from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

8. The different compounds D are the following combinations of compounds: a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1; a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1; a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably between 0.25 and 0.7, and more preferentially equal to 1 / 3; a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1; a combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) is preferably equal to 4 / 1; Preferably, the following combination of compounds: a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1; a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1; a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably between 0.25 and 0.7, and more preferentially equal to 1 / 3; a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1; and more preferentially, composition (C) comprises a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably ranging from 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferentially equal to 1 / 3.

9. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein composition (C) comprises different compounds D in a total content of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight and more preferentially in the range from 0.1% to 100% by weight, for example 100% by weight or in the range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

10. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight and most preferentially less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is silicone-free.

11. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

12. 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even better less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

13. 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and even better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

14. 14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is anhydrous.

15. The composition (C) is C ２ ~C ４ 15. The method of any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising one or more organic solvents selected from alcohols, ethers, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

16. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratinous fibers, preferably to wet keratinous fibers.

17. Step i) is followed by the following steps ii) to iv): ii) applying composition (C) to said keratinous fibers, preferably for at least 10 seconds, optionally carried out under an airtight film of the wrapper or plastic film type; iii) rinsing and / or washing the keratinous fibers; iv) drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device 17. The method of claim 16, comprising at least one additional step selected from:

18. The composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

19. Use of a composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for caring for keratinous fibres, preferably for imparting a soft and / or smooth feeling and / or shine to keratinous fibres, more preferentially for imparting a soft and / or smooth feeling to the fibres.

20. Use of a composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for protecting keratin fibres from humidity, preferably for limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in a humid environment.

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