Glossy, transfer-free composition

Abstract

The present invention particularly relates to a method for producing a pharmaceutical composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof; The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to glossy (or glossy or shiny, in particular wet-shine), non-transfer, anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin or lips. [Background technology]

[0002] In the prior art, care and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials that provide gloss and hold are known, but these compositions have low transfer resistance to pressure and friction and tend to deposit on the substrates they come into contact with (skin, clothing, etc.) (these products are said to transfer by contact or friction). In particular, in the world of lipsticks, there is a demand for ultra-glossy products (with a "vinyl" appearance) that are very long-lasting or transfer-free.

[0003] However, to Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no products on the market that have non-transfer properties, are easily removable, and provide very long-lasting hold.

[0004] Gloss products are characterized by forming a very glossy or "vinyl"-like film on the lips, but suffer from poor coverage, less pigmentation, short-lasting wear, noticeable migration into fine lines, and noticeable transfer (color migration). Stick products, on the other hand, are characterized by stronger pigmentation and longer wear, but are not transfer-proof and lack the sheen (glossiness or glossiness, especially a wet sheen) of glosses. Sticks that are said to be long-lasting but not "transfer-proof" typically form a satin film (not a glossy film), while "transfer-proof" sticks are matte, less comfortable to wear, and tend to be drying.

[0005] Some products claim to provide long-lasting shine, but they are usually sticky, can drag, transfer (bleed) with pressure or rubbing, and can sometimes be difficult to remove.

[0006] Other proposals for achieving a glossy, transfer-free deposit exist, but they generally come in the form of products that are applied (or spread) in two steps (so-called "double-step" products): A first layer of color comes into contact with the lips and is long-lasting, transfer-free, but not glossy. A second, ultra-glossy, transparent layer ("top coat") is applied to the first layer, which is glossy, non-sticky, and transferable without leaving a trace of color.

[0007] Similarly, when it comes to the eyes, there is no glossy eyeshadow that doesn't transfer or stick, and there is no glossy liner or mascara that doesn't transfer or stick.

[0008] Therefore, there is a need for new compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials (including skin, lips, and eyelashes) that can provide excellent gloss and improved transfer properties in a single step, and there is a need for care and / or makeup compositions that advantageously provide excellent gloss and improved transfer properties, but that do not contain silicone compounds (compositions referred to as "silicone-free" compositions).

[0009] Applicant tested several membrane (or film)-forming polymers and selected the best candidates based on their film drying speed and compatibility with non-aqueous polar volatile solvents. Applicant therefore identified a specific combination of components consisting of at least one polyurethane-type polymer and one alkylcellulose-type polymer in an anhydrous composition containing at least one non-aqueous volatile polar solvent and optionally one or more additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, which results in an ultra-glossy film with exceptionally long wear time and transfer-free properties.

[0010] The compositions of the present invention, even when containing high levels of non-volatile oil, have excellent gloss (or sheen) properties and transfer-free printability, which is unprecedented for a gloss composition of this type. The compositions of the present invention are also easily removable. Summary of the Invention

[0011] The present invention therefore provides a method for the preparation of a compound comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of C1 to C5 lower monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates (or carbonate esters, hereinafter the same), and mixtures thereof; The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

[0012] Another object relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, which comprises applying (or applying) to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0013] By "cosmetic composition" is meant a composition for cosmetic, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which may come into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, more particularly with keratinous materials, especially with the human skin and / or lips.

[0014] "Physiologically acceptable medium" means any additive (or excipient) that is suitable for topical use in contact with keratinous materials and that does not pose a risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic reaction.

[0015] By "keratin material" according to the present invention is meant the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0016] "Anhydrous" means in particular that preferably no water is intentionally added to the composition, although it may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention contains less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or does not contain any water at all. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Therefore, the primary objective is to obtain, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates (or carbonate esters), and mixtures thereof; The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

[0018] Alkyl cellulose Thus, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one alkyl cellulose.

[0019] Alkyl celluloses include methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, with ethyl cellulose being preferred.

[0020] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethyl cellulose as alkyl cellulose.

[0021] In the following description, "ethyl cellulose film-forming polymer," "ethyl cellulose polymer," or "ethyl cellulose" will be referred to interchangeably.

[0022] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous, adhesive film on a substrate, in particular the skin and / or lips.

[0023] By "ethyl cellulose polymer" according to the present invention is meant a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups in the glucose repeating units have been converted to ethyl ether groups.

[0024] Ethyl cellulose is the ethyl ether of cellulose, which contains chains of β-anhydroglucose units joined by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be replaced with ethoxy groups.

[0025] The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylation substitution. The degree of ethoxylation substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is usually 10 to 55%. According to a specific embodiment, the ethyl cellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit in the range of 2.5 to 2.6, in other words, a polymer containing an ethoxy group content in the range of 44% to 55%.

[0026] Reference may be made in particular to the ethyl cellulose polymers described in Dow Chemical application WO2018057381.

[0027] In particular, mention may be made of ethylcellulose polymers, which have the INCI name ETHYLCELLULOSE and are marketed under the following names: ETHOCEL™ series manufactured by DUPONT and sold by CHEMPOINT with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0-49.5%, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, and ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium: AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE series available from Ashland, Inc. in K-type, N-type, and T-type, preferably N-type, e.g., N7, N100; and ·ANTARON™ ECO Series available from Ashland, Inc.

[0028] The alkylcellulose polymer may be used as is or may be pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent, such as those described below, which may be volatile or non-volatile, to facilitate dispersion in the composition.

[0029] According to the first method, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as is (in powder form).

[0030] In formulating the anhydrous compositions according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may preferably be mixed and homogenized with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) selected from liquid (or liquid-like) C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols before being incorporated into the remainder of the composition.

[0031] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates (or carbonate esters), which may optionally be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, before being incorporated into the remainder of the composition.

[0032] The content of alkylcellulose, particularly ethylcellulose, in the composition of the present invention is usually in the range of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 8% by weight, of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Preferably, an alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition is used.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment, the content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, ranges from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, by weight of (active) dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Film-forming polyurethane polymer The composition also includes at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer.

[0037] Polyurethanes can be prepared according to polycondensation methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is i) forming a prepolymer resulting from the reaction of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) with a mixture of polytetrahydrofuran (also called polybutylene glycol or polytetramethylene glycol), the polytetrahydrofuran advantageously containing an average number of 14 moles of butylene glycol and an average number of 28 moles of butylene glycol, then ii) reacting the prepolymer with 4,4'-methylenebis(cyclohexylamine) and then reacting the remaining isocyanate groups with ethanol; It is obtainable or obtained by a multi-step process comprising:

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane polymer according to the invention is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar solvent as described below, in particular in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0040] According to a particular method, the product sold by the company Covestro under the name Baycusan® C 2000 and having the INCI name Polyurethane-64, Ethanol is used.

[0041] The molecular weight of the polyurethane polymer used according to the present invention is generally in the range of 5,000 to 100,000 Da, more preferably in the range of 8,000 to 60,000 Da.

[0042] The raw material comprising the polyurethane polymer pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar solvent may be more or less concentrated, and therefore the skilled person can adjust the amount of raw material used with respect to its polymer concentration and / or its molecular weight.

[0043] It may also be possible to use multiple polyurethane polymers with different concentrations of polyurethane polymer and / or different molecular weights to optimize the desired results in terms of film adhesion and transferability.

[0044] Although Baycusan® C 2000 is already known in ethanol-based sunscreen and hair styling products, to the applicant's knowledge it has never been used in skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions, probably because its high ethanol content may cause discomfort and tightness on the skin and lips.

[0045] The total content of film-forming polyurethane polymers in the compositions of the invention is generally in the range of 5% to 35% by weight, preferably 8% to 30% by weight, or even 10% to 25% by weight, of active or dry matter (polyurethane) weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of film-forming polyurethane polymers is at least 10% by weight, by weight of active or dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range of 10-25% by weight, in particular 10-20% by weight, by weight of active or dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Thus, according to certain preferred embodiments, the anhydrous compositions of the present invention comprise: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer in a total content ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, by weight of active or dry matter (polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition; Includes.

[0048] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises: (i) ethylcellulose in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer in a total content ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, by weight of active or dry matter (polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition; include.

[0049] The polyurethane polymer is advantageously pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent for ease of dispersion in the composition, preferably in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent for rapid drying of the film after application.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, a polyurethane polymer is used that has been pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as described below, the non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) being preferably selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, in particular polyurethane polymers with the INCI name Polyurethane-64 or INCI name Polyurethane-64, ethanol, such as that sold under the name Baycusan® C 2000 by the company Covestro.

[0051] The ethylcellulose polymer may advantageously be pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as described below, which is preferably a volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, which may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0052] According to another embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer may be pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) as described below, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) being preferably selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0053] Non-aqueous volatile polar solvent The composition therefore comprises (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent, which advantageously serves to pre-dissolve and / or pre-disperse at least one of the film-forming polymers, or both of the polymers, in order to facilitate their incorporation into the composition, and also contributes to the establishment and adhesion of the film on the keratinous materials after application and evaporation.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, at least the polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as defined below.

[0055] According to the present invention, "volatile solvent or oil" means a liquid that loses at least 20% of its mass in 60 minutes according to the following procedure: The volatile solvent is responsible for the formation of a film on the keratinous materials during application, which after evaporation adheres to the keratinous materials and gives a bare skin feel without any material effect.

[0056] Method: 20 mg of the liquid to be studied (solvent) is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and precision balance. The liquid is spread over the entire plate with a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. For each liquid, the test is performed in triplicate. The mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

number

[0057] By "non-volatile solvent or liquid" is meant a solvent or liquid that does not meet the definition of a volatile solvent above.

[0058] By "polar solvent" is meant a solvent comprising at least one polar group, which is well known to those skilled in the art and may in particular be an alcohol, ester, ether or carboxylic acid group.

[0059] In particular, the polar solvent according to the present invention may have a polarity index value of 4 or more. The polarity index is a quantity calculated based on thermodynamic quantities (solubility and state transitions) that highlight the degree of polarity of a molecule. For the polarity index of a solvent, reference can be made to LR SNYDER's article "Classification of Solvent Properties of Common Liquids," Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

[0060] Preferred polar solvents are those consisting of compounds containing at least one polar covalent bond of the OH type.

[0061] The "non-aqueous polar volatile solvents" that can be used according to the present invention include, in particular, volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0063] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyurethane polymer is (pre)dispersed or (pre)dissolved in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0064] According to another embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from: esters, which may be optionally hydroxylated, preferably containing a total of 5 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably monoesters, in particular esters of C2-C6 monoalcohols and C3-C6 monocarboxylic acids, which may be optionally hydroxylated and contain a total of 5 to 11 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate; ethers (especially monoethers) having a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as dipentyl ether; Dialkoxymethanes with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are sold, in particular, by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butyral, respectively; Carbonates (or carbonate esters) having a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, etc.; · and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, in particular ethylcellulose, is (pre)dispersed or (pre)dissolved in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, which may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0066] The total content of non-aqueous volatile polar solvents in the composition of the present invention is particularly in the range of 8% by weight to 65% by weight, preferably 10% by weight to 50% by weight, and more preferably 12% by weight to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent, in particular C1-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, in the composition of the invention is in particular in the range from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Other additional oils (different from the volatile polar solvents listed above) According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional hydrocarbon oils (iv), volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, different from the above-mentioned volatile polar solvents, in particular one or more additional hydrocarbon oils chosen from liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils, C8 to C19 linear or branched alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The additional polar and non-volatile oil can function as a polar, non-volatile solvent for at least one of the two film-forming polymers mentioned above, and can also impart comfort and moisturizing properties to the keratinous materials to which the composition of the present invention is applied.

[0070] According to certain embodiments, the ethylcellulose polymer according to the present invention is pre-dispersed or pre-dissolved in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, as described below.

[0071] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil that is essentially formed from or consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and may contain at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, but is free of Si, F, and P atoms.

[0072] non-volatile hydrocarbon oil According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from the group consisting of: Liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols; · Ester oil; · and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Among the ester oils, particular mention may be made of: Esters of fatty alcohols with C8 to C18 fatty acids, in particular cococaprylate caprate (or coco-caprylate / caprate), which are esters of fatty alcohols of natural origin (e.g. coconut) with caprylic and capric acid, fatty acid esters, in particular those having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R1COOR2 (where R1 is a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 is a (especially branched) hydrocarbon chain having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is 16 or more), such as isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, etc.; · Linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70; hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; · Esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing 4 to 22 atoms; Esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids; polyesters obtained by esterifying at least one triglyceride of a hydroxylated carboxylic acid with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which may optionally be unsaturated; · and mixtures thereof.

[0074] One skilled in the art would be able to adjust the amount of additional oil depending on the amount of polymer used to obtain the desired performance.

[0075] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols.

[0076] Indeed, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-dispersed or pre-dissolved in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, prior to incorporation into the remainder of the composition.

[0077] Advantageously, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, when it contains at least 16 carbon atoms, is preferably a branched fatty alcohol.

[0078] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol contains from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0079] Specific examples of liquid fatty alcohols that can be preferably used in the compositions of the present invention include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof, among others.

[0080] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

[0081] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention will comprise at least octyldodecanol.

[0082] The total content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the present invention is generally in the range of 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 15% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the present invention.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The composition may further comprise one or more apolar (or non-polar), volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0085] Examples of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils include C8 to C19 straight-chain or branched alkanes, specifically: C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®, Linear alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in: C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13, such as mixtures of undecane and tridecane sold by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate C9-C12, C12-C14, for example, products sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the names VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE) and VEGELIGHT® 1214LC n-Dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular those sold by Sasol under the names PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, respectively, and C15 to C19, such as those sold by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN (registered trademark) L15 · and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The total content of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, if present in the composition of the present invention, is generally in the range of 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0087] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise: (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular the polyurethane polymer with the INCI name Polyurethane-64; (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol; and (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol; Includes.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0089] It is also preferred that the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) selected from the group consisting of liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, prior to incorporation into the remainder of the composition.

[0090] Other ingredients The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from additional agents that promote adhesion to keratinous materials, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, coloring materials, fillers (or bulking agents), and mixtures thereof.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional agent that promotes adhesion to keratinous materials, such agent being selected in particular from the group consisting of sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0092] coloring material According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular in the case of a makeup composition, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0093] In the present invention, the term "coloring material (or coloring substance)" means a compound that is capable of producing an optical effect of color when incorporated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

[0094] The coloring material can be selected from organic or inorganic coloring materials, soluble or insoluble in the oil phase of the present invention, materials with optical effects such as nacre, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, liposoluble colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] "Pigment" means a white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble particle in an aqueous solution that is intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit or application. Includes mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0097] "Mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), which may optionally be surface treated; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide, and ferric blue.

[0098] For lip compositions, examples include titanium dioxide, black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides, and manganese violet.

[0099] Examples of "organic pigments" include D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 13, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 3, D&C Blue No. 1, carbon black, lakes, and the like.

[0100] In particular, the coloring material is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials ranges from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0102] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free, i.e. it comprises less than 1% by weight of silicone, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably it is completely free of silicone (0%), based on the total weight of silicones.

[0103] The term "silicone" refers to a compound that contains one or more Si-O-Si bonds in its structure.

[0104] Galenic preparations (GALENIC) The compositions of the present invention are anhydrous compositions.

[0105] Preferably it will be a liquid composition.

[0106] For purposes of the present invention, "liquid" means a fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to a composition that is referred to as a solid composition.

[0107] The composition may in particular be a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the lips, a composition for the skin, such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow or a glossy foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes, such as a mascara, in particular a lip gloss or a non-transfer glossy lipstick (or lipstick).

[0108] Various embodiments of the composition according to the present invention are described above.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a liquid composition for making up the skin or lips, comprising: (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular the polyurethane polymer with the INCI name Polyurethane-64; (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol; (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol; and (v) at least one coloring material Includes.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0111] Also preferably, the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, prior to incorporation into the remainder of the composition.

[0112] Method for producing the composition A person skilled in the art will adapt the method for preparing the composition depending on the film-forming polymer used, whether or not it is pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a suitable solvent (iii) or (iv) as described above.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, a polyurethane polymer pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, is used to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0114] One such polyurethane polymer is Polyurethane-64 from Covestro (INCI name Polyurethane-64, Ethanol).

[0115] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is prepared according to the following method: 1) Ethyl cellulose polymer and non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyldodecanol) are mixed by heating (e.g., at 95°C) until homogenized (e.g., with a holding time of 1 hour and a rotation speed of 700 rpm); 2) If pigment is present, grind the pigment in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyldodecanol), then add the pigment paste and homogenize until the mixture cools to room temperature; 3) Then add the polyurethane-64 polymer pre-dissolved in ethanol at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, which has a very low flash point of 13°C) and homogenize everything; and 4) The final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0116] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is prepared according to the following method: 1) pre-dissolving or pre-dispersing an ethyl cellulose polymer in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, which may optionally be hydroxylated, until homogenized; 2) If pigment is present, grind the pigment in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyldodecanol), then add the pigment paste and homogenize until the mixture cools to room temperature; 3) Then add the polyurethane-64 polymer pre-dissolved in ethanol at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, which has a very low flash point of 13°C) and homogenize everything; and 4) The final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0117] The skilled person will adapt the holding time, temperature and rotation speed depending on the oil (iii) selected.

[0118] Makeup method The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, which comprises applying (or coating) a composition as defined above to said keratinous materials.

[0119] The compositions of the present invention form a glossy (or shiny) non-transferable film when applied to the skin or lips.

[0120] The invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples, in which percentages are expressed by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise stated. [Example]

[0121] Example 1: Synergistic effect of ethyl cellulose and polyurethane polymer Several lipstick compositions were prepared and evaluated according to the criteria of glossiness (or glossiness, glossiness or shine, especially wet shine), transferability (non-transferability), film adhesion / retention and removal.

[0122] [Table 1]

[0123] The composition is prepared according to the following method. The ethyl cellulose polymer and octyldodecanol are mixed in a beaker in a water bath (95°C) at a rotation speed of 700 rpm for 1 hour, then the stirring is reduced to remove bubbles from the preparation. Add sucrose acetate isobutyrate and homogenize at 500 rpm for 20 minutes. The pigment is ground in octyldodecanol, then the pigment paste is added and the mixture is homogenized until it cools to room temperature. The polyurethane-64 polymer is added at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, which has a very low flash point of 13°C) and homogenized. The final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0124] The properties of the compositions according to the invention and each comparative composition (without ethyl cellulose polymer or polyurethane-64) are evaluated by an expert panel as follows: The compositions are applied to the hands and to the lips and the various properties are evaluated. Glossiness: The glossiness of the film is evaluated once it has dried. The ranking is as follows: +++: Very glossy (or very shiny) ++: Glossy (or shiny) Transfer-free: The transfer-free property is assessed by touching the film with a finger or kissing the hand (pressure non-transfer assessment), or by rubbing the film with a finger or rubbing the hand with lips (friction non-transfer assessment). The ratings are as follows: +++: Very good resistance to transfer due to pressure and friction ++: Good resistance to transfer due to pressure and friction +: Does not transfer under pressure, but has poor abrasion resistance -: Transfers due to pressure and friction Film adhesion / hold: Film adhesion / hold is assessed by leaving the product on the lips for at least 4 hours. The rating is as follows: +++: Film adhesion / retention is very good ++: Good film adhesion / retention -: The film does not adhere / retain, and the film peels off easily or comes off. Removal: Removal is assessed by wiping the lips with a cotton ball to remove makeup (testing with ethylcellulose alone is very difficult, so a two-phase makeup remover is required to facilitate removal). The ratings are as follows: +++: Very easy to remove -: Not removed

[0125] The results are shown in the following table.

[0126] [Table 2]

[0127] These results show that ethyl cellulose alone produces a glossy, non-transferring film that is very difficult to remove, whereas polyurethane alone produces a glossy film and provides overall non-transfer properties (using a volatile solvent), but provides poor film adhesion / retention and the film peels off easily.

[0128] On the other hand, the combination of ethyl cellulose and polyurethane in the compositions of the present invention improves film adhesion and facilitates removal while maintaining good pressure resistance and gloss properties, a result that is particularly surprising given the very high non-volatile oil content (here, in the example above, the octyldodecanol content is in the range of 68-70%).

[0129] Example 2: Improved resistance to friction Applicant has prepared and tested several compositions according to the invention with different products having the INCI name ethyl cellulose, different polyurethane polymer contents, and with or without the addition of additional agents that promote adhesion, such as sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0130] Following the procedures described in the previous examples, the compositions and glossiness and transferability ratings are given in the following table.

[0131] [Table 3]

[0132] These results show that increasing the polyurethane content further improves transfer resistance, especially abrasion resistance.

[0133] Thus, one skilled in the art can adjust the content of polyurethane, ethyl cellulose, octyldodecanol, and add additional adhesive agents (or glues) as needed to optimize the adhesion and transfer properties of the film.

[0134] Thus, the combination of ethylcellulose polymer and polyurethane-64 makes it possible to formulate glossy, transfer-free, anhydrous compositions for keratinous materials, especially the skin and lips.

[0135] This combination can therefore be advantageously used in skin make-up compositions (eg glossy eyeliners and eyeshadows, "glow" or shimmering foundations) or in lips (eg glossy liquid lipsticks).

[0136] Example 3: Example of a compound 3.1. Glossy non-transferable liquid lipstick [Table 4]

[0137] The composition is prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1. When applied to the lips, the composition forms a very glossy, non-sticky film that does not transfer even when pressure is applied.

[0138] 3.2 Transfer-free glossy lipstick [Table 5]

[0139] The composition is prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1. Contains glyceryl (behenate / eicosanedioate) as a stabilizer. When applied to the lips, the composition forms a very glossy, non-sticky film that does not transfer even when pressure is applied.

[0140] 3.3 Transfer-free glossy liquid eyeliner [Table 6]

[0141] The composition is prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1. When applied to the lid crease, the composition creates a glossy, non-sticky line that does not transfer when pressure is applied.

[0142] 3.4 Transfer-proof liquid eyeshadow [Table 7]

[0143] The composition is prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1. When applied to the eyelids, the composition forms a very glossy, non-sticky film that does not transfer when pressure is applied.

Claims

1. In a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof; 1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

2. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising (iv) one or more additional hydrocarbon oils selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils, C8-C19 straight-chain or branched alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the film-forming polyurethane polymer is present in the composition in a total dry matter content ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, or even from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the non-aqueous polar volatile solvent is selected from C1 to C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

6. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent in the composition is in particular in the range from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the additional hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile polar oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, the content of which ranges from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose; (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular the polyurethane polymer with the INCI name Polyurethane-64; (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol; and (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of liquid C10 to C26 saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol; The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising:

9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises an additional agent that promotes adhesion to keratinous materials, in particular an agent selected from sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising a coloring material selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, liposoluble colorants, and mixtures thereof.

11. 11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains less than 1% by weight of silicones in total, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0%.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition is a liquid composition.

13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the lips, a composition for the skin, such as for example an eyeliner, eyeshadow or a glossy foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes, such as for example a mascara, in particular a gloss or a transfer-free glossy lipstick for the lips.

14. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

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