Compositions comprising glucomannan

Abstract

To provide a stable composition capable of providing good makeup removability and a unique feeling of use.SOLUTION: A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising (a) at least one glucomannan, and (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier chosen from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the (b) oil in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions for treating keratinous materials, such as skin. [Background technology]

[0002] Cleansing skin is very important for facial care.Cleansing must be as effective as possible, because greasy residues, such as excessive sebum, residues of daily used cosmetics and makeup products, especially waterproof products, tend to accumulate in skin folds, such as wrinkles, and clog skin pores, which can lead to the appearance of spots.

[0003] Thus, in the cosmetics field, cleansing products are widely used to cleanse keratinous materials, such as the skin, and in particular to remove make-up on keratinous materials.

[0004] Some cleansing products contain small particles called "scrubs" that can contribute to physically removing keratinous materials, such as dirt or make-up, from the skin.

[0005] Furthermore, eco-friendly cosmetic formulations are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, and are an important goal in efforts to address global issues. Therefore, it is essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods and ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing compositions, by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0007] There is a constant need to develop new cleansing compositions that can provide good makeup removal performance. [Preliminary Technology Documents] [License]

[0008] [License 1] Special opening number 2000-344801 [License 2] Special lottery number 2006-169300 [Non-licensed literature]

[0009] [Non-licensed Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-licensed Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 91, January 1976, Pages 27~32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-licensed Document 3] CM Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., Volume 39, Page 105 (1967) [Non-licensed Document 4] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Volume 113, December 1998, Pages 49~55 [Non-licensed Document 5] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Volume 116, No. 7, Pages 67~70

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Summary of the Invention

[0010] An object of the present invention is to provide a stable composition that can provide good makeup removal ability and an unparalleled feeling when used. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The above objectives are: (a) at least one glucomannan; (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising: This can be achieved by a composition in which the amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0012] (a) The glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof.

[0013] (a) The glucomannan may be derived from konjac.

[0014] The amount of (a) glucomannan in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1.5% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] The (b) oil may be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0016] The amount of (b) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% to 40% by mass, preferably 3% to 35% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0017] Gemini surfactants have the following formula (A):

[0018] [ka]

[0019] (In the formula, Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, for example, a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2)=(2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0), or (0, 2, 0, 2), l represents an integer of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12. The compound may be selected from compounds represented by:

[0020] The gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamide lysine, sodium distearoyl glutamide lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] The glycolipid may be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably rhamnolipids.

[0022] The amount of the emulsifier (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0024] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 93% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as skin, which comprises the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0026] The cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise the step of massaging the keratinous material. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0027] As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition that can provide good makeup removal ability and an unparalleled feeling when used.

[0028] Therefore, the present invention mainly comprises: (a) at least one glucomannan; (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising: The composition relates to a composition in which the amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0029] When the composition according to the present invention contains (d) water, the composition may be in the form of an emulsion, particularly an O / W emulsion. Once the composition according to the present invention is emulsified, the emulsified state can last for a long time at various temperatures. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable.

[0030] The composition according to the present invention can provide good makeup removal ability, and is therefore suitable for cleansing keratinous materials, such as skin.

[0031] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a unique sensation during use because it can generate agglomerates that can be in the form of noodles during use. For example, by massaging a keratinous material, such as skin, with the fingers while the composition according to the present invention is present thereon, the composition according to the present invention can generate agglomerates that can be in the form of noodles derived from (a) glucomannan. Users of the composition according to the present invention can have a pleasant experience during use.

[0032] The agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, produced by the composition according to the invention may be soft, so that the composition according to the invention may also provide a pleasant feel when used.

[0033] In addition, the agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, produced by the composition according to the present invention can function as "scrubbing" particles. Therefore, they can contribute to exfoliating the surface layer of keratinous materials, such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Therefore, the agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, can contribute to effectively removing keratinous materials, such as dirt or makeup on the skin. In addition, the agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, can contribute to accelerating the turnover of the surface layer of keratinous materials, such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Therefore, the agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, can also provide a refreshing feeling.

[0034] The aggregates produced by the composition according to the invention, which may be in the form of noodles, may be formed by (a) glucomannan, which may be derived from natural sources, and therefore the composition according to the invention is environmentally friendly.

[0035] The above-mentioned effects and advantages provided by the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to the cosmetic method and use according to the present invention.

[0036] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0037] [Composition] One aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one glucomannan; (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising: The composition relates to a composition in which the amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0038] (Glucomannan) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one type of glucomannan. A single type of glucomannan may be used, or two or more different types of glucomannan may be used in combination.

[0039] The (a) glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the (a) glucomannan is a mixture of water-soluble glucomannan and water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0040] As used herein, "water-soluble" means that (a) the glucomannan can have a water solubility of 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more in water (pH=7) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C).

[0041] As used herein, "water-insoluble" means that (a) the glucomannan can have a water solubility of less than 0.1% by mass in water (pH=7) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C).

[0042] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight (typically 500,000) sugar consisting of D-glucose and D-mannose units, with D-glucose and D-mannose linked together by β-1,4-glycosidic bonds in a ratio of about 2:3 (1:1.6). <Mw glucomannan It is a polysaccharide with a molecular weight of <2,000,000.

[0043] Glucomannan is a substantially linear polysaccharide, but may have branches approximately every 50 or 60 units. Some of the hydroxyl groups of the polysaccharide are acetylated.

[0044] Glucomannan can be found in wood, but it is also the main component of konjac gum. Therefore, glucomannan can be derived from konjac (Amorphophallus konjac), a plant in the Araceae family.

[0045] Glucomannan is naturally water-soluble. The glucomannan originally obtained from konjac can be used as the water-soluble glucomannan.

[0046] Water-soluble glucomannan may function as a thickening agent for compositions according to the present invention.

[0047] On the other hand, glucomannan can be treated to make it water-insoluble. For example, JP 2000-344801 and JP 2006-169300 disclose methods for producing water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0048] For example, water-insoluble glucomannan can be prepared by the following steps. (1) dissolving glucomannan-rich powder in water to prepare a solution; (2) mixing the solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan; (3) adding an alkali to the resulting mixture to convert the precipitated glucomannan particles into water-insoluble, irreversible hydrogel particles; (4) separating the glucomannan hydrogel particles from the liquid; (5) drying the separated hydrogel particles; and (6) Crushing and sieving the dried gel particles to the desired particle size.

[0049] As used herein, the term "glucomannan-rich flour" refers collectively to refined konjac flour, refined glucomannan flour, and rapidly dissolvable konjac flour.

[0050] In step (1), the starting glucomannan-rich flour can be dissolved in water to form an aqueous solution. Because the glucomannan solution can be very viscous, its concentration can be less than 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.

[0051] In step (2), the solution can be mixed with ethanol, preferably by slowly adding the glucomannan solution to the ethanol while stirring, causing the glucomannan to precipitate as fibrous particles.

[0052] Since glucomannan is not soluble in ethanol or aqueous ethanol mixtures containing more than 30% ethanol by weight, the weight ratio of ethanol to glucomannan solution can be at least 3:7.

[0053] In step (3), the precipitated glucomannan particles can be reacted with alkali to produce a water-insoluble, thermally irreversible hydrogel. This reaction can be carried out by adding an alkali solution to the water-ethanol mixture containing the precipitated glucomannan. Any alkali can be used, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate. Saturated limewater is preferred and is the common practice in the production of edible konjac. Unlike edible konjac, glucomannan gels while retaining its fibrous particulate form. This makes it easier to separate the gel from the liquid.

[0054] In step (4), the gel particles can be separated from the liquid, for example by centrifugation, and washed at least once with aqueous ethanol. If necessary, the washing solution may contain a non-toxic organic acid, such as acetic acid or citric acid, to neutralize excess alkali.

[0055] In step (5), the gel particles thus separated can be thoroughly dried in conventional equipment, preferably in a hot air dryer at about 105° C. or above, to remove most of the water.

[0056] In step (6), the dried gel particles can be crushed and sieved to obtain a final product having a desired size.

[0057] The water-insoluble glucomannan may be in the form of gel particles. The particle size of the water-insoluble glucomannan may be 10 to 500 microns, preferably 50 to 500 microns, and more preferably 100 to 500 microns. The particle size may be a particle size based on volume.

[0058] The water-insoluble glucomannan may be deacetylated due to the action of the alkali used during the process for preparing the water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0059] Deacetylated water-insoluble glucomannan can easily aggregate and form a gel due to hydrogen bonding between the hydroxyl groups of the glucomannan molecules.

[0060] When an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, such as Ca(OH)2, or a salt thereof is used as the alkali, the water-insoluble glucomannan contains a divalent alkaline earth metal ion, such as Ca 2+ can be crosslinked by

[0061] (a) As glucomannan, commercially available products such as the konjac flour series sold by BLG (Shanghai Brilliant Gum Co., Ltd.) in China and Propol (registered trademark) ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical Co., Ltd. in Japan may be used.

[0062] The amount of (a) glucomannan in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0063] The amount of (a) glucomannan in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0064] The amount of (a) glucomannan in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1.5% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0065] (oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oil may be used in combination.

[0066] (b) The oil may form the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0067] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid), preferably a liquid, at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0068] (b) The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0069] (b) The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0070] (b) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.

[0071] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0073] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0074] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

[0075] Preferably, in esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0076] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0077] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

[0078] In particular, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0079] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. Note that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms, containing some alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0080] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0081] Sugar esters of fatty acids are, in particular, those esters of the sugars mentioned above with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, which, when unsaturated, can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0082] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0084] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0085] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0086] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Examples of the glycerin-based glycerin include glyceryl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] As an ethereal oil, there may be used a compound having the following formula: R 1 -OR 2 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 each independently being a linear, branched or cyclic C 4~24 Alkyl groups, preferably C 6~18 Alkyl groups, more preferably C 8~12 Examples of dialkyl ethers include those represented by the formula: R 1 and R 2 It may be preferable that

[0088] Examples of the linear alkyl group include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.

[0089] Branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, and 2-hexyl groups. Examples of such alkyl groups include sildecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.

[0090] Examples of the cyclic alkyl group include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0091] It may be preferred that the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] More preferably, the ether oil may be selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0094] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0096] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0097] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press, Inc. Organopolysiloxanes can be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0098] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly chosen from:

[0099] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 and by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type, such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane of the following formula, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide:

[0100] [ka]

[0101] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.

[0102] (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 1 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in an article published by Todd & Byers in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Appendix C.

[0103] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these non-volatile silicones being more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0104] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil, oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., 60,000mm viscosity 2 DC 200 / s, and Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0105] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0106] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.

[0107] The phenylsilicone oil may be chosen from phenylsilicones of the following formula:

[0108] [ka]

[0109] (In the formula, R1 to R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p, and q are each independently an integer of 0 or more and 900 or less, preferably 0 or more and 500 or less, and more preferably 0 or more and 100 or less; However, the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0110] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils from Rhodia, 70 641 series; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil, manufactured by Dow Corning; - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0111] Phenyl silicone oils include phenyl trimethicone (wherein R to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).

[0112] The organically modified liquid silicones may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

[0113] The term "hydrocarbon" as used herein means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not contain any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.

[0114] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.

[0115] The hydrocarbon oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of vegetable origin.

[0116] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably a non-polar oil. As used herein, the term "non-polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter at 25°C of δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

[0117] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, more preferably saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon oils.

[0118] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile. The hydrocarbon oil is preferably volatile. In other words, the hydrocarbon oil is preferably a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0119] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile" oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour on contact with keratinous materials at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils may be liquid at room temperature, and in particular have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The pressure is in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg), and preferentially in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

[0120] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and even better above 80°C.

[0121] Hydrocarbon oils are branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbons, preferably branched C9-C 21 Hydrocarbons, more preferably branched C 10 ~C 20 It may be selected from alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). Even more preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated farnesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] On the other hand, hydrocarbon oils also include linear C8-C 22 Hydrocarbons, preferably straight-chain C9-C 21 Hydrocarbons, preferably linear C 10 ~C 20It may also be selected from alkanes. Even more preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The hydrocarbon oil may be one or more commercially available products, for example, C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - mineral oil, - liquid paraffin or its derivatives, - squalane or squalene, - Isoeicosan, - naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1,340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2,160 g / mol), sold or manufactured by the company Amoco; - polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, such as Parleam® sold by Nippon Oil & Fats Corporation, Panalane H-300 E (MW=1340 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco, Viseal 20000 (MW=6000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal, and Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW=1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Witco, or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation; - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14; polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, such as Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical, and - A mixture of these.

[0125] In one embodiment, the (b) oil may be selected from non-silicone oils.

[0126] (b) The oil may preferably be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] (b) The oil may more preferably be selected from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, symmetric ether oils, linear or branched alkanes having carbon chain lengths of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Even more preferably, the (b) oil is selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] It may be particularly preferred that the (b) oil is selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] The amount of (b) oil in the composition according to the present invention is 5% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0131] The amount of (b) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, more preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] The amount of (b) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0133] (emulsifier) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof. A single type of emulsifier may be used, or two or more different types of emulsifiers may be used in combination.

[0134] (c) The emulsifier allows the composition according to the present invention to be in the form of an emulsion.

[0135] (c) The emulsifier is preferably biodegradable.

[0136] The amount of (c) emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass or more, preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0137] On the other hand, the amount of (c) emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0138] Therefore, the amount of (c) emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0139] (c) The emulsifier is selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Hereinafter, gemini surfactants and glycolipids will be described.

[0141] Gemini surfactants The gemini surfactants, i.e. dimeric surfactants, used in the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference can be made to the following publications: Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Volume 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55, and Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Volume 116, Number 7, pp. 67-70.

[0142] The gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds having two or more aliphatic amide groups (hereinafter, these may be referred to as "amide compounds"). The amide compounds may be represented by the following formula (A):

[0143] [ka]

[0144] (In the formula, Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, for example, a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2)=(2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0), or (0, 2, 0, 2), l represents an integer of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12. It can be expressed as:

[0145] Preferably, in formula (A), l represents an integer of 8 to 12, j1=j2=0, and k1=k2=2.

[0146] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j1=j2=0, k1=k2=2, and l=10.

[0147] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain N-acyl acidic amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and an organic solvent, or in an inert organic solvent such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, or acetone, or without any solvent at a temperature of −5° C. to 200° C., preferably 5° C. to 100° C., and more preferably 0° C. to 60° C.

[0148] Examples of the amide compound include sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

[0149] Particularly preferred is sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, which is commercially available as an aqueous solution with a concentration of 29% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous solution, under the trade names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 from Asahi Kasei Finechem Co., Ltd., or as a mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and butylene glycol under the trade name Pellicer LB-30G from Asahi Kasei Finechem Co., Ltd.

[0150] In another embodiment, the gemini surfactant may also be represented by the following formula (I):

[0151] [ka]

[0152] (In the formula, R1 and R3 each independently represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y are each independently -(C2H4O) a -(C3H6O) b represents a Z group, where: Z represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH group, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion, or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25. (n varies from 1 to 10) You can also follow the

[0153] The gemini surfactants of formula (I) are preferably those in which the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups each contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represent the residue of a coconut fatty acid (mainly including lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0154] In addition, the surfactant is preferably one in which the sum of a and b, for each of the X and Y groups, has an average value varying from 10 to 20, and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion, for example a sodium ion.

[0155] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a C1-C3 linear alkylene chain, preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0156] This type of surfactant is in particular identified by the INCI name: Dicocoyl Ethylenediamine PEG-15 Sodium Sulfate and has the following structure:

[0157] [ka]

[0158] where PEG represents a CH2CH2O group and "cocoyl" is understood to represent a coconut fatty acid residue.

[0159] This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.

[0160] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) is used in a mixture with other surfactants, in particular (a) C6-C 22 Fatty acids (preferably C 14 ~C 20 (b) C6-C8 esters of glyceryl esters of stearic acid 22 Fatty acids (preferably C 14 ~C 20 , for example stearic acid) and diesters of citric acid with glycerol (especially C6-C 22 fatty acid esters and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) C 10 ~C 30 It can be used in a mixture of fatty alcohols, preferably behenyl alcohol.

[0161] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

[0162] For example, the gemini surfactants of formula (I) can be used in mixtures with other surfactants in the form of products sold under the trade name Ceralution® by the company Sasol, such as, in particular, the following products: Ceralution® H: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (INCI name), Ceralution® F: Sodium lauroyl lactylate and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (INCI name), and Ceralution® C: Water, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Dicocoyl Ethylenediamine PEG-15 Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI Name).

[0163] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent 3% to 50% by weight of the mixture. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise, as gemini surfactant of formula (I), raw materials having the INCI names: Behenyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, and Sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (INCI name), sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.

[0164] The amount of gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] On the other hand, the amount of gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Therefore, the amount of gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0167] Glycolipid The term "glycolipid" is understood to mean a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.

[0168] The glycolipid may be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] The glycolipids may preferably be selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, more preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0170] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially at least one rhamnolipid.

[0171] Glucolipids: Glycolipids contain a glucose moiety and have the general formula (I):

[0172] [ka]

[0173] (In the formula, -R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, p represents an integer ranging from 1 to 4; - q represents an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6 The glycolipids may be selected from those which can be represented by:

[0174] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium MM1 of the genus Alcaligenes.

[0175] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in M. Schmidt, Ph.D. (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and in Schulz et al., (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, pp. 197-203. Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixtures.

[0176] Sophorolipids: Glycolipids contain a sophorose moiety and have the general formula (II):

[0177] [ka]

[0178] (In the formula, -R 3 and R 4 each independently represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; -R 5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; -R 6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms, However, R 5 and R 6 The total number of carbon atoms in each group does not exceed 20, preferably 14 to 18. The sophorolipid may be selected from sophorolipids that can be represented by:

[0179] Sophorolipids are R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, and R 8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in the form of an open chain free acid in which the lactone ring is R 7 and R 8 It may be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention in either its lactone form, formed between:

[0180] [ka]

[0181] (In the formula, -R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , and R 6 is as defined above, but However, R 3 and R 4 at least one of which represents an acetyl group).

[0182] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, such as Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. Fermentation processes generally use sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0183] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed by AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6(4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which may be used in the form of a mixture or the required form may be isolated.

[0184] As sophorolipids, for example, those sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and those sold under the name BioToLife by BASF can be used.

[0185] Trehalolipid: The glycolipid contains a trehalose fragment and has the general formula (IV):

[0186] [ka]

[0187] (In the formula, -R 9 , R 10 , and R 11 each independently represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 13 carbon atoms. The trehalolipid may be selected from trehalolipids which can be represented by:

[0188] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851; Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203; and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0189] Cellobioselipid: The glycolipids contain cellobiose fragments and have the general formula (V):

[0190] [ka]

[0191] (In the formula, -R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, -R 12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms, -R 13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group, -R 14represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 16 carbon atoms. The cellobiose lipid may be selected from cellobiose lipids which can be represented by:

[0192] Cellobioselipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. A suitable fermentation method is provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0193] Rhamnolipids: The glycolipid may be selected from rhamnolipids.

[0194] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0195] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid) linked by glycosidic bonds to one, two, or three chains of β-hydroxylated fatty acids, which are linked together by ester bonds.

[0196] Preferably, the rhamnolipid has the following formula (VI):

[0197] [ka]

[0198] (In the formula, m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n represents an integer equal to 1 or 0, R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, preferably mono-, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl groups, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms. The monorhamnolipids and dirhamnolipids corresponding to

[0199] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects monorhamnolipid, and when n is equal to 1, it protects dirhamnolipid.

[0200] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid.

[0201] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a compound of formula (VI): (In the formula, m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - R1 and R2 each independently represent a branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular a hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, identical or different hydrocarbon group, preferably a mono-, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl group, having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, as well as at least one dirhamnolipid, as well as salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0202] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration, preferably in the alpha configuration.

[0203] In the context of the present invention, The salts of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) are more particularly its carboxylates with organic or inorganic cations, and in particular with cations chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium. - the solvated forms of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of an organic solvent, such as hydrates or solvates of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, in which the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably in the form of the R enantiomer, The term "alkyl" group refers to a saturated, straight or branched aliphatic group, e.g., a C1-C6 group having a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms. 20 It denotes an alkyl group, more particularly methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.

[0204] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a compound of formula (VI): m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, R1 and R2 are identical or different and are selected from the group consisting of pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl groups, as well as groups of the formula -(CH2) o They contain at least one dirhamnolipid having a group CH3, where o represents an integer in the range 1 to 23, in particular 3 to 15, and more particularly 4 to 12.

[0205] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0206] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, dirhamnolipids of general formula (VI), where m is preferably equal to 1.

[0207] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one monorhamnolipid.

[0208] More preferably, the composition according to the invention has the following formula (VII):

[0209] [ka]

[0210] (In the formula, m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - R1 is -(CH2) p -CH3 group, where p is an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12; - R2 is -(CH2) q -CH3 group, where q is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12. and salts thereof, solvates thereof, and optical isomers thereof.

[0211] Illustrative examples of dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY as defined in Table 1 below.

[0212] The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative notation for representing a dirhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized with two groups R1 and R2, represented by the symbols CX and CY (the integers X and Y are equal to p+4 and q+4, respectively).

[0213] [Table 1]

[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid (also called di-RL-C10C10) of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0215] Preferably, the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight, preferably between 51% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0216] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0217] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a compound of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1 and R1 is -(CH2) o represents a -CH3 group, where o is an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl groups, preferably R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group.

[0218] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from: - dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, - dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, and Formula (VI) (wherein n and m are equal to 1 and R1 is -(CH2) oand R1 represents a -CH3 group, where o is an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, and tridecenyl groups, preferably R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group.

[0219] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from: - at least 50% by weight, preferably between 51% and 85% by weight, of dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids; - 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, of dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and - 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 3% to 12% by weight, preferably 5% to 10% by weight of dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipid.

[0220] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art, starting from bacterial production strains such as Pseudomonas.

[0221] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber, Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and in F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar, Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty), (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0222] As rhamnolipid, the product sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipid) may be used.

[0223] The amount of glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass or more, preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0224] The amount of glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] The amount of glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0226] (water) The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (d) water.

[0227] (d) Water may form the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0228] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0229] On the other hand, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by mass or less, preferably 93% by mass or less, and more preferably 90% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0230] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 93% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0231] (Other ingredients) Compositions according to the present invention may also comprise at least one optional or additional ingredient.

[0232] Optional or additional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants other than component (c) above, lipophilic or hydrophilic thickeners other than component (a) above, fragrances, preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] The amount of optional or additional components is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0234] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free of silicone. The term "substantially free of silicone" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain any silicone or contains at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free of fatty alcohols. The term "substantially free of fatty alcohols" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain any fatty alcohols or contains at least one fatty alcohol in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Fatty alcohol is monohydric alcohol.The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means that it contains a relatively large number of carbon atoms.Therefore, the alcohol that has 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, is included in the scope of fatty alcohol.

[0237] (Embodiment) According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; 5% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil, and 0.001% by mass to 5% by mass of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof Includes.

[0238] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 1% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; 10% to 35% by mass of (b) at least one oil selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof; and 0.01% to 3% by mass of (c) (1) a gemini surfactant represented by the above formula (A), (2) a glycolipid selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, and (3) at least one emulsifier selected from mixtures thereof. Includes.

[0239] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; 15% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof; and 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) (1) a gemini surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and mixtures thereof, (2) a glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, and (3) at least one emulsifier selected from mixtures thereof. Includes.

[0240] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; 15% to 25% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof; and 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, (2) rhamnolipid, and (3) mixtures thereof Includes.

[0241] [Preparation] The composition of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients described above and, if necessary, the optional ingredients described above.

[0242] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0243] [form] When the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, more preferably an O / W emulsion, and even more preferably an O / W gel emulsion.

[0244] The composition according to the invention in the form of an O / W emulsion may comprise a dispersed fatty phase, for example an oil phase, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phase may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an O / W gel emulsion.

[0245] An O / W type constitution or structure consisting of a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase has an aqueous phase on the outside, and therefore, a composition according to the present invention having an O / W type constitution or structure can provide a pleasant sensation upon use due to the immediate cooling sensation that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0246] The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise, in addition to (b) oil, any hydrophobic component.

[0247] For example, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient, either a single type of such cosmetic active ingredient or a combination of two or more different types of such cosmetic active ingredients.

[0248] The amount of fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] The amount of fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 45% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] The amount of fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] If present, the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise, in addition to (d) water, any hydrophilic component.

[0252] For example, if present, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. A single type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such cosmetic active ingredients may be used in combination.

[0253] Additionally, the aqueous phase may contain at least one pH adjuster, such as acids and bases, and / or at least one organic solvent, such as diols and polyols.

[0254] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition according to the invention may be up to 99% by weight, preferably up to 95% by weight, more preferably up to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% to 99% by weight, preferably 60% to 95% by weight, more preferably 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The weight ratio of fatty phase / aqueous phase may be from 50 / 50 to 1 / 99, preferably from 50 / 50 to 5 / 95, and more preferably from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90.

[0258] [Coating] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably as a cosmetic composition for cleansing, more preferably as a cosmetic composition for cleansing keratinous materials.

[0259] The keratinous material may be skin, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, or keratinous fibers such as eyebrows and eyelashes. Skin here includes facial skin, neck skin and scalp. The composition according to the invention may be used on mucous membranes such as lips.

[0260] The compositions according to the present invention can be classified as so-called "gommage" products, which may resemble scrubbing products containing "scrub" particles, and are useful for physical exfoliation (removal of the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin).

[0261] Compositions according to the present invention can provide cosmetic benefits such as makeup removal.

[0262] The compositions according to the present invention can be used as is (as a topical product) or by impregnating porous substrates such as nonwovens and wipes, preferably made from cellulosic fibers such as cotton.

[0263] [method] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as skin, which comprises the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0264] The cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise the step of massaging the keratinous material.

[0265] By massaging the keratinous material, the composition according to the invention can easily form particles in the form of noodles, which can function as "scrubbing" particles.

[0266] The cosmetic method according to the present invention may be for cleansing keratinous materials, preferably for removing make-up from keratinous materials, more preferably for removing make-up from the skin or eyelashes.

[0267] [use] The present invention also provides (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; In a composition comprising (a) at least one glucomannan The use of The amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition; It also relates to the use for cleansing keratinous materials, such as the skin, preferably for removing make-up from keratinous materials, more preferably for removing make-up from the skin.

[0268] The present invention also provides (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; In a composition comprising (a) at least one glucomannan The use of The amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition; (a) It may also relate to the use for producing aggregates derived from glucomannan.

[0269] The agglomerates, which may be in the form of noodles, may function as "scrubbing" particles.

[0270] The composition in use according to the invention may be for cleansing keratinous materials, preferably for removing make-up from keratinous materials, more preferably for removing make-up from the skin. [Example]

[0271] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0272] (Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. All figures relating to the amounts of components are based on "mass %" of the active ingredient.

[0273] [Table 2]

[0274] [evaluation] (stability) Immediately after preparation, the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were in the form of emulsions.

[0275] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was filled into a glass bottle and stored for two months under temperature conditions of 4° C., 25° C., and 45° C. Then, each sample was inspected for the degree of change in appearance and evaluated according to the following criteria: Good: Appearance is nearly identical to when manufactured. Poor: A change in appearance was clearly observed.

[0276] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0277] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 maintained an emulsified state after 2 months at temperatures of 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C, and were therefore stable.

[0278] On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 3, which did not contain any emulsifier, could not be emulsified, and therefore its stability as an emulsion could not be evaluated.

[0279] Therefore, the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was not subjected to the following evaluations regarding makeup removal ability and noodle formation.

[0280] (Makeup removal ability) First, the artificial eyelashes were prepared and the initial mass of the artificial eyelashes was measured.

[0281] Second, waterproof mascara was applied to the artificial eyelashes. After the waterproof mascara was dried, the mass of the waterproof mascara-coated artificial eyelashes was measured.

[0282] The amount of waterproof mascara on the lashes (A) was then determined by subtracting the original mass of the imitation lashes from the mass of the imitation lashes coated with waterproof mascara.

[0283] Third, the artificial eyelashes were wiped 40 times with wipes containing the same amount of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2. After wiping, the artificial eyelashes were washed with water and dried. The mass of the artificial eyelashes after wiping was then measured.

[0284] The amount of waterproof mascara remaining on the lashes (B) was then determined by subtracting the original mass of the imitation lashes from the mass of the imitation lashes after wiping.

[0285] Make-up removal ability (%) was determined by (AB) / A.

[0286] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0287] A higher "makeup removal ability" value (%) in Table 1 indicates a higher makeup removal ability, meaning that a larger amount of waterproof mascara was removed.

[0288] (Noodle generation) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied to the hands and massaged with the fingers. The formation of agglomerates in the form of noodles was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Yes: Noodles formed. None: No noodles formed.

[0289] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0290] (summary) Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 are stable, but the composition according to Comparative Example 3 is not stable.

[0291] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can provide greater makeup removal ability than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which do not contain any glucomannan or any oil, respectively.

[0292] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-2 were able to produce noodles, but the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which contained xanthan gum instead of glucomannan, was unable to produce noodles.

Claims

1. (a) at least one glucomannan; (b) at least one oil; (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising: A composition, wherein the amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition.

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) glucomannan is selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the glucomannan is derived from konjac.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (a) glucomannan in the composition is 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) oil is selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from C15-19 alkanes, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

6. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 10% to 35% by weight, more preferably 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The gemini surfactant has the following formula (A): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, for example, a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2)=(2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0), or (0, 2, 0, 2), l represents an integer of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, more preferably 10 to 12. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of:

8. 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamide lysine, sodium distearoyl glutamide lysine, and mixtures thereof.

9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the glycolipid is selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably rhamnolipids.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (c) emulsifier in the composition is 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The composition of claim 1, further comprising (d) water.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 93% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

13. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to the keratinous materials.

14. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, further comprising the step of massaging the keratinous material.

15. (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof; In a composition comprising (a) at least one glucomannan The use of The amount of (b) oil in the composition is 5% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition; Use for cleansing keratinous materials, such as skin, preferably for removing make-up from keratinous materials, more preferably for removing make-up from skin.

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