Composition for caring for keratin substances

A novel cosmetic composition with water-sensitive active ingredients, polyols, and β-hydroxy acids stabilizes these ingredients, addressing stability issues and maintaining color stability, suitable for keratinous substances.

JP2026054728APending Publication Date: 2026-03-30LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-09-17
Publication Date
2026-03-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic compositions containing water-sensitive active ingredients like ferulic acid face stability issues due to degradation upon contact with water, leading to undesirable color changes and odors, and there is a need for more sustainable formulations using renewable materials.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising water-sensitive active ingredients, polyols, and β-hydroxy acids in specific amounts, formulated to be anhydrous or low in water, which stabilizes the active ingredients and suppresses degradation, maintaining color stability and odor.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides improved stability and color stability to water-sensitive active ingredients, preventing degradation and unpleasant odors, suitable for topical use on keratinous substances.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide a novel cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water and has improved stability. [Solution] The present invention relates to a composition comprising (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, (b) at least one polyol, and (c) at least one β-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, and in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratin substances, because it can effectively deliver the cosmetic active ingredient to the keratin substance.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions for caring for keratinous substances, preferably cosmetic compositions. The present invention also relates to cosmetic methods for treating and / or caring for keratinous substances. [Background technology]

[0002] Cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as ferulic acid, are known to be useful in fields such as cosmetics for their antioxidant, whitening / brightening, and UV protection properties. However, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as ferulic acid, tend to be unstable under certain conditions. For example, ferulic acid degrades upon contact with water, losing stability and producing an unpleasant odor. Furthermore, formulations containing ferulic acid may turn yellow at high temperatures, potentially affecting consumer preference and perceived efficacy.

[0003] To prevent the degradation of ferulic acid, several prior art documents disclose anhydrous compositions containing ferulic acid.

[0004] For example, US-A-2022 / 0387278 is an anhydrous composition for caring for keratinous substances, a) Ferulic acid in an amount of 0.5% to 3.0% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, b) At least one type of C3~C 10 Polyols and, c) At least one type of silica aerogel and An anhydrous composition containing [the specified ingredient] is disclosed.

[0005] Furthermore, WO2022 / 204951 is an anhydrous composition for caring for keratin substances, a) At least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water and / or oxygen, b) At least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having an HLB value of 13 or higher at a temperature of 25°C, and ethoxylated / propoxylated aliphatic alcohols, c) Dipropylene glycol and The present invention discloses an anhydrous composition that contains [a specific ingredient] and does not contain any cationic surfactants.

[0006] However, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions containing water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients, such as ferulic acid, that can suppress the degradation of these active ingredients.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulations of environmentally friendly cosmetics are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, and this is an important goal in efforts to address global problems. Therefore, it is essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods, and ingredients to address these environmental challenges.

[0008] In this context, it is particularly important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, such as new keratin care compositions, by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0009] [Patent Document 1] No. US-A-2022 / 0387278 [Patent Document 2] WO2022 / 204951 [Patent Document 3] FR-2 416 723 [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 2,798,053 [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent No. 2,923,692 [Non-patent literature]

[0010] [Non-Patent Document 1] Paper by C.M. Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967). [Non-Patent Document 2] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. [Non-Patent Document 3] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0011] The object of the present invention is to provide a novel cosmetic composition that contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water and has improved stability. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] The above objective of the present invention is, (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, (b) at least one polyol, (c) an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, at least one β-hydroxy acid and This can be achieved by a composition containing [the specified element].

[0013] (a) A cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water is given by formula (I):

[0014] [ka]

[0015] [In the formula, A is OR3 group (wherein R3 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C1-C) 18 (Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and ammonium ions), and NHR4 group (wherein R4 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C1-C) 18 (Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups) Selected from, R1 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C1-C6 alkoxy group, or a linear or branched C1-C6 group. 18 Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and a C1-C6 alkoxy group. It can be selected from cinnamic acid derivatives represented by [formula].

[0016] (a) Cosmetic active ingredients that are sensitive to water may be selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0017] (b) The polyol may be selected from linear or branched diols and triols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0018] (b) The polyol may comprise at least two polyols selected from diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and triols selected from glycerin.

[0019] (b) The polyol may comprise a combination of at least one diol selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and at least one triol, which is glycerin.

[0020] (c) The β-hydroxy acid may be selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives.

[0021] (c)β-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and the following formula (II):

[0022] [ka]

[0023] [In the formula, R1 is a hydroxyl group, or formula: -O-CO-R4 (In the formula, R4 is an amine or thiol functional group that is optionally substituted with a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing 1 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or with an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms.) It represents the ester of, R2 and R3 are independently located at the 3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th position on the benzene ring, and are independently of each other a hydrogen atom or the following group: -(O) n -(CO) m -R5 (In the formula, n and m are integers that are independently equal to either 0 or 1.) This represents that, however, R2 and R3 cannot be hydrogen atoms at the same time. R5 represents a linear, branched, or cyclized saturated aliphatic group containing a hydrogen atom and 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated group containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms having 1 to 9 conjugated double bonds or non-conjugated double bonds, and these groups may be substituted with at least one substituent selected from a halogen atom (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine), a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in its free form or esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl group in its free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The alkylated derivatives of the compound, or salts of such derivatives, may be selected.

[0024] (c) The β-hydroxy acid may be selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] The amount of (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in the composition may be in the range of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1.5% to 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0026] The amount of (b) polyol in the composition may be in the range of 50% to 98% by mass, preferably 62.5% to 95% by mass, and more preferably 75% to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one oil, preferably an ester oil.

[0028] The amount of oil in the composition may be in the range of 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0029] The water content in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, more preferably less than 5% by mass, even more preferably less than 1% by mass, and particularly less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, or the composition according to the present invention may not contain water, or may substantially not contain water.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to keratinous material. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0031] As a result of diligent research, the inventors discovered that the combination of component (b) polyol and a specific amount of (c) β-hydroxy acid can suppress the degradation of (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients, and thus completed the present invention.

[0032] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, (b) at least one polyol, (c) an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, at least one β-hydroxy acid and It is a composition containing [the specified ingredient].

[0033] The composition according to the present invention can (a) provide improved stability to cosmetic active ingredients that are sensitive to water. The composition can (a) suppress the degradation of cosmetic active ingredients and therefore exhibit good color stability, and (a) suppress unpleasant odors caused by the degradation of cosmetic active ingredients. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, and in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, because it can effectively deliver cosmetic active ingredients to keratinous substances.

[0034] The compositions, uses, and methods according to the present invention will be described in more detail below.

[0035] [Composition] The composition of the present invention, (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, (b) at least one polyol, (c) an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, at least one β-hydroxy acid and Includes.

[0036] The compositions according to the present invention may be intended for use as cosmetic compositions, particularly topical cosmetic compositions. Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention may also be intended for application to keratinous substances.

[0037] Here, "keratin substance" refers to a material that contains keratin as its main component, and examples include skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, etc. Preferably, "keratin substance" here refers to skin. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, particularly a topical cosmetic composition, for treating and / or caring for a keratin substance, preferably the skin.

[0038] The compositions according to the present invention can take various forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O / W or W / O type), and multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions. The compositions according to the present invention are preferably solutions, particularly oily homogeneous solutions, or oily dispersions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0039] In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not need to contain a large amount of water. The water content in the composition may be less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, more preferably less than 5% by mass, even more preferably less than 1% by mass, and particularly less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition does not contain water or is substantially water-free. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an anhydrous. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may be an anhydrous solution or dispersion.

[0040] The components of the composition are described in detail below.

[0041] (Cosmetic active ingredients that are sensitive to water) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water. Two or more different types of (a) cosmetic active ingredients may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (a) cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or a combination of different types of (a) cosmetic active ingredients may be used.

[0042] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-sensitive component" here refers to a component that degrades when in contact with water for a specific period of time under specific conditions. For example, a water-sensitive component is one that degrades when in contact with water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10°C). 5 At Pa, it may degrade if it comes into contact with water for at least several days, especially for at least two days.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic active" may here mean a compound having a cosmetic effect, for example, antioxidant activity, an effect of imparting whitening and / or brightening to keratinous substances, or a UV protection effect.

[0044] When the (a) cosmetic active ingredient deteriorates due to contact with water, several undesirable results may occur. For example, the deterioration of the (a) cosmetic active ingredient may cause a change in the color of the composition, such as yellowing, and / or may cause a bad odor and / or crystallization during storage at a low temperature, for example, 4°C.

[0045] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cosmetic active ingredient sensitive to water is selected from cinnamic acid derivatives. The cinnamic acid derivatives have the following chemical formula (I):

[0046] [Chem.]

[0047] [wherein, A is an OR3 group (wherein R3 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C1-C 18 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion), and an NHR4 group (wherein R4 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C1-C 18 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group), is selected from R1 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C1-C6 alkoxy group, a linear or branched C1-C 18 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and a C1-C6 alkoxy group. It can be represented by...

[0048] Linear or branched C1-C 18 Alkyl alkyl groups, preferably C1-C 12 Examples of alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C6 alkyl groups, include methyl group, ethyl group, n-propyl group, i-propyl group, n-butyl group, i-butyl group, sec-butyl group, tert-butyl group, n-pentyl group, i-pentyl group, 1-ethylpropyl group, hexyl group, isohexyl group, and 1-ethylbutyl group.

[0049] Examples of C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups include cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, and cyclohexyl groups.

[0050] Examples of C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups include cyclopropylmethyl, cyclobutylmethyl, cyclopentylmethyl, and cyclohexylmethyl groups.

[0051] Examples of C1-C6 alkoxy groups include methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, i-propoxy, n-butoxy, i-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, n-pentyloxy, i-pentyloxy, 1-ethylpropoxy, hexyloxy, isohexyloxy, and 1-ethylbutoxy. Methoxy groups are preferred.

[0052] It is preferable that R1 is a hydroxyl group, and that R2 is selected from a hydroxyl group and a C1-C6 alkoxy group, more preferably a methoxy group.

[0053] (a) Examples of cinnamic acid derivatives include 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, and ferulic acid. Caffeic acid and ferulic acid may be preferred, and ferulic acid may be more preferred.

[0054] The amount of (a) a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0055] The amount of (a) a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 4% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0056] The amount of (a) a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1.5% to 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0057] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to represent a range of preferred quantities.

[0058] (Polyol) The compositions according to the present invention comprise (b) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b) polyols may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (b) polyol may be used, or a combination of different types of (b) polyols may be used.

[0059] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more free hydroxyl groups and does not include sugars or their derivatives. Derivatives of sugars include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxyl groups are replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group, alkoxy group, acyl group, or carbonyl group.

[0060] (b) Polyols are C2-C 12 The polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, may be used.

[0061] (b) The polyol may contain at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably two to five hydroxyl groups, more preferably two or three hydroxyl groups.

[0062] The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0063] Polyols can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. Polyols can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and caprylyl glycol.

[0064] The polyol may be selected from linear or branched, preferably linear, diols and / or triols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular, - Diols such as hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and - Triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof We can list some examples.

[0065] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) polyol comprises at least two polyols. In another embodiment of the present invention, (b) polyol comprises at least three polyols.

[0066] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) the polyol comprises a combination of at least one diol and at least one triol. In another embodiment of the present invention, (b) the polyol comprises a combination of at least two diols and at least one triol.

[0067] The amount of (b) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or more, preferably 62.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 75% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0068] The amount of (b) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by mass or less, preferably 95% by mass or less, and more preferably 90% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0069] The amount of (b) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% to 98% by mass, preferably 62.5% to 95% by mass, and more preferably 75% to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0070] (b) If the polyol contains at least one diol, the amount of diol in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, and more preferably 60% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0071] (b) If the polyol contains at least one diol, the amount of diol in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by mass or less, preferably 85% by mass or less, and more preferably 80% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0072] (b) If the polyol contains at least one diol, the amount of diol in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% to 90% by mass, preferably 50% to 85% by mass, and more preferably 60% to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0073] (b) If the polyol contains at least one triol, the amount of triol in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.5% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or more, and more preferably 7.5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0074] (b) If the polyol contains at least one triol, the amount of triol in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0075] (b) If the polyol contains at least one triol, the amount of triol in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.5% to 25% by mass, preferably 5% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 7.5% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0076] (β-hydroxy acid) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one β-hydroxy acid. Two or more types of (c) β-hydroxy acids may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (c) β-hydroxy acid may be used, or a combination of different types of (c) β-hydroxy acids may be used.

[0077] The term "β-hydroxy acid" or "BHA" here refers to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group on a beta carbon atom.

[0078] As a β-hydroxy acid, it is not limited to salicylic acid and its derivatives, particularly formula (II) below:

[0079] [ka]

[0080] [In the formula, R1 is a hydroxyl group, or formula: -O-CO-R4 (In the formula, R4 is an amine or thiol functional group that is optionally substituted with a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing 1 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or with an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms.) It represents the ester of, R2 and R3 are independently located at the 3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th position on the benzene ring, and are independently of each other a hydrogen atom or the following group: -(O) n -(CO) m -R5 (In the formula, n and m are integers that are independently equal to either 0 or 1.) This represents that, however, R2 and R3 cannot be hydrogen atoms at the same time. R5 represents a linear, branched, or cyclized saturated aliphatic group containing a hydrogen atom and 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated group containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms having 1 to 9 conjugated double bonds or non-conjugated double bonds, and these groups may be substituted with at least one substituent selected from a halogen atom (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine), a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in its free form or esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl group in its free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Examples include alkylated derivatives of the same, or salts of such derivatives.

[0081] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl group, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, and R3 is located at the 5th position of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 group [wherein R5 represents a saturated aliphatic group containing 3 to 15 carbon atoms].

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, this is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: capryloylsalicylic acid).

[0083] The amount of (c)β-hydroxy acid in the composition is at least 0.2% by mass and no more than 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0084] (Optional components) The composition according to the present invention may contain the following optional components.

[0085] - Thickening agent The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one thickening agent. Two or more thickening agents may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of thickening agent may be used, or a combination of different types of thickening agents may be used.

[0086] The thickening agent or thickening agent may be selected from organic thickening agents and inorganic thickening agents.

[0087] The organic thickener is preferably a polymer thickener, more preferably an acrylic thickener, for example, (i) Crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer, (ii) Crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (C1-C6) alkyl acrylate, (iii) Nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers, (iv) Homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide It can be selected from the following.

[0088] (i) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers that can be listed, there are those crosslinked with sugar-based allyl alcohol ethers. Examples include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with pentaerythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, or propylene allyl ether, such as products marketed by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984, or products marketed by VSA under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K.

[0089] (ii) Crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylates can be selected from, for example, the crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material, sold by Coatex under the name Viscoatex 538C, and the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material, sold by Rohm & Haas under the name Aculyn 33. The crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate includes the aqueous dispersion containing 30% active material, sold by Noveon under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1.

[0090] (iii) Among nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ester and / or amide-type ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the following products are sold under these names: Cyanamer P250 (polyacrylamide) by Cytec, PMMA MBX-8C (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer) by US Cosmetics, Acryloid B66 (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer) by Rohm & Haas, and BPA 500 (polymethyl methacrylate) by Kobo.

[0091] As an example, at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymer containing at least an acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer can also be cited.

[0092] The AMPS(co)polymer may preferably be completely neutralized or substantially completely neutralized, i.e., at least 90% neutralized.

[0093] AMPS(co)polymer may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

[0094] Examples of AMPS(co)polymers that can be listed include: Acrylamide / acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate sodium crosslinked copolymer, for example, Sepigel 305 (INCI name: polyacrylamide / C), a commercially available copolymer from SEPPIC. 13 ~C 14 Copolymers of commercially available products sold under the trademarks Isoparaffin / Laureth-7, or Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurate Sodium / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80), A copolymer of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, for example, a commercially available copolymer sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI name: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), which has been neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, for example, AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer, for example, the copolymer of a commercially available product sold by SEPPIC under the name Simulgel EG (INCI name: sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate-80), and Copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercially available product sold by SEPPIC under the name Simulgel NS (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate-60).

[0095] AMPS(co)polymer may more preferably be an acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer.

[0096] (iv) Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that can be listed include the product sold by Hoechst under the name Microsap PAS 5193.

[0097] The ammonium acrylate homopolymer may also be a crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) homopolymer. Examples of AMPS homopolymers that can be cited include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the commercially available polymers Simulgel 800 (INCI name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).

[0098] Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide include products marketed under the name Bozepol C Nouveau, or product PAS 5193 marketed by Hoechst (these are described and prepared in reference FR-2 416 723, U.S. Patent No. 2,798,053, and U.S. Patent No. 2,923,692).

[0099] The amount of the thickening agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.2% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0100] On the other hand, the amount of the thickening agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by mass or less, preferably 2% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0101] The amount of the thickening agent in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.3% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0102] - Surfactants The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of surfactant may be used, or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0103] The surfactant may be selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic surfactants, and may be used alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition contains at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0104] Examples of nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention include polyethoxylated aliphatic alcohols or polyglycerolated aliphatic alcohols, for example, adducts of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol, particularly those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (INCI names: laureth-9 to laureth-50), especially laureth-9; esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylene derivatives, i.e., those containing oxyethylene units and / or oxypropylene units, for example, glycerol and C8-C 24 Esters with fatty acids, and their oxyalkylene derivatives, particularly polyoxyethylene-modified glyceryl stearate (mono, di, and / or tristearate esters), such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; sugars and C8-C 24 Esters with fatty acids, and their oxyalkylene derivatives, for example, C8-C 24 Polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of fatty acids, particularly polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed by Croda under the name "TWEEN® 80"; sugars and C8-C 24Ethers with aliphatic alcohols, e.g., caprylyl / capryl glucoside; hydrophobic polysaccharides; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, e.g., polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone This may include bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone; as well as polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The surfactant is preferably of natural origin.

[0106] In addition, as a nonionic surfactant, the following general formula (1): RO-(G) x (1) [In the formula, R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl group containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, x represents a value in the range of 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 4, and G specifically represents glucose, fructose, or galactose.] Alkyl polyglycosides represented by can be cited. Examples of this type of alkyl polyglycoside include alkyl polyglucosides (in formula (I), G = glucose), and in particular, formula (I) [wherein R is more specifically an oleyl group (unsaturated C 18 (group) or isostearyl group (saturated C) 18Compounds of the group [where G represents glucose and x is a value in the range of 1 to 2], particularly isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. This alkyl polyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more specifically as a mixture with an aliphatic alcohol, in particular an aliphatic alcohol having the same aliphatic chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e., an aliphatic alcohol containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, for example, isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.

[0107] The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 2% by mass or more, and more preferably 3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0108] On the other hand, the amount of surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 7.5% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0109] The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 7.5% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0110] - oil The composition of the present invention may contain at least one type of oil. Two or more types of oil may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of oil may be used, or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0111] Here, "oil" is equal to atmospheric pressure (10 5This refers to aliphatic compounds or fatty substances that are in the form of a liquid, paste (non-solid), or solid, preferably liquid or paste, at room temperature (25°C) under Pa. As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0112] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention are volatile oils and non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon oils, particularly those of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0113] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that mainly contains hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, and optionally contains oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0114] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0115] For the purposes of this invention, "polar oil" refers to the solubility parameter δ at 25°C. a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is intended to mean an oil other than oil.

[0116] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed from or composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus.

[0117] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper by C.M. Hansen, *The three-dimensional solubility parameters*, J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

[0118] According to this Hansen space, - δ D This characterizes the London dispersion force arising from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions. - δ p This characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles, and also the Chasom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles. - δ h This characterizes the strength of specific interactions (e.g., hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, and donor / acceptor binding, etc.). - δ a is, equation δ a =( δ p 2 +δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 It is determined by [the following].

[0119] parameter δ p , δ h , δ D , and δ a is, (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as follows.

[0120] Preferably, the polar oil used in the present invention is δ between 4 and 9.1. a Preferably between 6 and 9.1, and even better between 7.3 and 9.1. a It has.

[0121] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16Lower alkanes. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane; and - Alkane mixtures, e.g., C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes.

[0122] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Examples of vegetable oils include, for instance, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Examples of animal oils include, for instance, squalene and squalane.

[0125] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0126] Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated and have linear or branched C1-C1 chains. 26 Aliphatic monoacid or polyacid and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C123 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

[0127] Preferably, in the case of a monoalcohol ester, at least one of the alcohol and acid that derive the ester of the present invention is branched.

[0128] Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, examples include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate, for example isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0129] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and non-sugar C4-C esters with monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, or tricarboxylic acids. 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

[0130] In particular, diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactic acid, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate can be mentioned.

[0131] As ester oils, C6~C 30 Preferably C 12 ~C 22 Fatty acid sugar esters and diesters may be used. Note that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing at least four carbon atoms, having some alcoholic functional groups, and having or not having aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0132] Examples of suitable sugars that can be listed include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, as well as their derivatives, particularly alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.

[0133] Fatty acid sugar esters, in particular, consist of the sugars described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C6 sugars. 30 Preferably C 12 ~C 22 The group may be selected from those comprising esters with fatty acids or mixtures of esters. When unsaturated, these compounds may have 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0134] Esters in this modified form can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0135] These esters may be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, for example, particularly mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0136] More specifically, monoesters and diesters, particularly monooleates or dioleates of sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenicates, and oleostearates are used.

[0137] One example that can be cited is the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate(registered trademark) DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0138] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylic / capric acid, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, and dicaprate. Examples include lylyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] As ether oil, the following formula: R 1 -OR 2 [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of these is independently a linear, branched, or cyclic C 4~24 Alkyl alkyl group, preferably C 6~18 Alkyl alkyl groups, more C 8~12 [Indicates an alkyl group] Dialkyl ethers such as those represented by R. 1 and R 2 It is preferable that they be the same.

[0140] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, undecyl group, dodecyl group, tridecyl group, tetradecyl group, pentadecyl group, hexadecyl group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, behenyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, and tetracosyl group.

[0141] As branched alkyl groups, 1-methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, t-butyl group, 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, 3-methylhexyl group, 5-methylhexyl group, 1-ethylhexyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 1-ethylhexyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 2-butyloctyl group, isotridecyl group, 2-pentylnonyl group, 2-butyl Examples include xyldecyl group, isostearyl group, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl group, 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0142] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl, and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl groups.

[0143] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylcaprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristicate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate / caprylic acid)glyceryl, and tri(caprate / caprylic acid / linolenic acid)glyceryl.

[0144] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, particularly liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0146] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. Organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain one or more organic functional groups bonded in their structure via hydrocarbon groups.

[0147] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in detail by Walter Noll in *Chemistry and Technology of Silicones* (1968), published by Academic Press. Organopolysiloxanes may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0148] If these are volatile, the silicones are selected more specifically from those with boiling points between 60°C and 260°C, and more specifically from the following:

[0149] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158, and by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, for example, formula:

[0150] [ka]

[0151] Another example is Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide.

[0152] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.

[0153] (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and is 5 × 10 at 25°C -6 m 2 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, which is sold by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Annex C.

[0154] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. More specifically, these non-volatile silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups are the most common.

[0155] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products can be listed without limitation: - Silbione® oils 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil. - Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia, - Dow Corning's 200 series oil, for example, 60,000 ml 2 DC200 having a viscosity of / s, and - Viscasil® oil manufactured by General Electric, and certain oils in the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0156] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups, known as dimethiconol (CTFA), can also be cited, such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0157] Among silicones containing aryl groups, examples include polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oil.

[0158] Phenylsilicone oil is given by the following formula:

[0159] [ka]

[0160] [In the formula, R1~R 10 These are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C12 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl group. m, n, p, and q are independent integers between 0 and 900 (inclusive), preferably between 0 and 500 (inclusive), and more preferably between 0 and 100 (inclusive). However, the sum n+m+q is non-zero. It can be selected from phenyl silicones.

[0161] Examples that can be given include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oil 70 641 series manufactured by Rhodia, - Rhodorsil® 70 633 series and 763 series oils manufactured by Rhodia. - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil manufactured by Dow Corning, - Bayer's PK series silicones, for example, product PK20, - Specific oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0162] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (in the above formula, R1 to R 10 Preferably, (where is methyl, p, q, and n = 0, and m = 1)

[0163] Organically modified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethylene oxy groups and / or polypropylene oxy groups. Examples include the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 manufactured by Union Carbide.

[0164] The oil may preferably be selected from ester oils, but more preferably from diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, charcoal This may be selected from dicaprylyl acid, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] In one preferred embodiment, the oil is an ester oil of an amino acid derivative, particularly C6-C6 22 Selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, which may be of natural origin.

[0166] N-acyl amino acid esters are generally defined by the following formula: R'1(CO)N(R'2)CH(R'3)(CH2) n (CO)OR'4 [In the formula, - n is an integer equal to 0, 1, or 2. - R'1 is a linear or branched C5-C 21 Represents an alkyl group or alkenyl group, - R'2 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group. - R'3 represents a group selected from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a linear or branched C3 or C4 alkyl group. - R'4 is a linear or branched C1-C 10 Alkyl or C2-C 10[Represents an alkenyl group or sterol residue] It belongs to them.

[0167] Preferably, the R'1(CO)- group is an acyl group of an acid selected from the group formed by capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids, and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These fatty acids may also contain a hydroxyl group. More preferably, this fatty acid is lauric acid.

[0168] -N(R'2)CH(R'3)(CH2) amino acid esters n The (CO)- portion is preferably selected from the amino acids glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, β-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine, and N-methyl-β-alanine.

[0169] More preferably, the amino acid is sarcosine.

[0170] The amino acid ester portion corresponding to the OR'4 group can be obtained from an alcohol selected from the group formed by methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, fusel oil, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, and isostearyl alcohol.

[0171] These amino acid esters can be obtained, in particular, from natural sources of amino acids. In this case, the amino acids are produced from the hydrolysis of natural plant proteins (oats, wheat, soybeans, palm, or coconut), which inevitably results in a mixture of amino acids. This mixture of amino acids then needs to be esterified and subsequently N-acylated.

[0172] The most preferred ester oil may be an amino acid derivative of lauroyl sarcosinate isopropyl.

[0173] This oil, in particular when stored at low temperatures, for example at 4°C, may (a) inhibit the crystallization of water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients.

[0174] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 2% by mass or more, and more preferably 3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0175] The total amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0176] The total amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 6% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0177] - Monovalent C 2~4 alcohol The composition according to the present invention contains at least one monovalent C 2~4 It may contain alcohol. Two or more different types of monovalent carbon. 2~4 Alcohols may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of monovalent C may be used. 2~4 Alcohol may be used, and different types of monovalent C 2~4 Alcoholic beverages may be used in combination.

[0178] Monovalent C 2~4The alcohol is neither an aliphatic alcohol nor a higher alcohol.

[0179] The term "monohydric" alcohol here means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.

[0180] Monohydric C 2~4 The alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic).

[0181] <00L0815>Monohydric C 2~4 The alcohol is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C 2~4 aliphatic monohydric alcohol. Preferred monohydric C 2~4 The alcohol is ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] The amount of monohydric C 2~4 alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by mass or more, preferably 2% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0183] The amount of monohydric C 2~4 alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0184] The amount of monohydric C 2~4 alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 3% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0185] - Adjuvant The compositions according to the present invention may or may not contain any adjuvants typically used in cosmetics, such as cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; natural extracts derived from animals or plants; lipophilic thickeners; dyes; other cosmetic surfactants; fragrances; antioxidants; pH adjusters, preservatives; and opacifiers, to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0186] The total amount of adjuvant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 30% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0187] The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above-mentioned essential components and optional components according to any method well known to those skilled in the art.

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is, with respect to the total mass of the composition, (a) 0.1 mass% to 10 mass%, formula (I):

[0189] [ka]

[0190] [In the formula, A is OR3 group (wherein R3 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C1-C) 18 (Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and ammonium ions), and NHR4 group (wherein R4 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C1-C) 18 (Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups) Selected from, R1 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C1-C6 alkoxy group, or a linear or branched C1-C6 group. 18 Selected from alkyl groups, C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl groups, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and a C1-C6 alkoxy group. A cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, selected from cinnamic acid derivatives represented by, (b) 50% to 98% by mass of at least one polyol selected from linear or branched diols and triols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, (c) 0.2% to 3% by mass of at least one β-hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives Includes.

[0191] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is, with respect to the total mass of the composition, (a) 1.5% to 4% by mass of at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and combinations thereof, (b) 75% to 90% by mass of at least two polyols selected from diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and triols selected from glycerin, (c) 0.2% to 3% by mass of at least one β-hydroxy acid selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Includes.

[0192] [method] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous substances, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to a keratinous substance.

[0193] The cosmetic method according to the present invention may be a non-therapeutic method.

[0194] The cosmetic method according to the present invention may be for treating and / or caring for keratin substances, such as skin, hair, scalp, nails and lips, preferably skin.

[0195] Since the composition according to the present invention contains (a) a cosmetic active ingredient in a stable state, the method according to the present invention can effectively deliver (a) the cosmetic active ingredient to the keratin substance.

[0196] [use] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) a polyol and (c) a β-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, for stabilizing a cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water.

[0197] Other technical features and optional components described in the composition can be applied to the methods and uses according to the present invention. [Examples]

[0198] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.

[0199] [Composition] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 4) and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 3) were each prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1 below. All numerical values regarding the amounts of the components are based on "mass%" of the active ingredient.

[0200] [Evaluation] (Color Stability) Each of the compositions was left at 45°C for up to 2 months. After 2 months, the color (L*, a*, b*) values of the compositions were measured using a spectrophotometer V-750. Then, the following formula:

[0201] [Number]

[0202] [where L* 1D , a* 1D , b* 1D are the L*, a*, b* values of the composition after 24 hours at room temperature, respectively, and L* 2M , a* 2M , b* 2M are the L*, a*, b* values of the composition after 2 months at 45°C, respectively] was used to evaluate the color stability by the delta E (ΔE) of the composition between 24 hours at room temperature after generation and 2 months at 45°C.

[0203] The evaluation was carried out based on the following criteria. Extremely good: ΔE < 2 Good: 2 ≤ ΔE < 5 Fair: 5 ≤ ΔE < 10 Poor: 10 ≤ ΔE < 30 Extremely poor: 30 ≤ ΔE

[0204] (crystallization) Each composition was left at 4°C for up to two months. After two months, crystallization was evaluated by visual observation of the compositions. OK: After storage at 4°C for 2 months, no crystals were observed in the composition. NG: After storage at 4°C for 2 months, at least one crystal was observed in the composition.

[0205] (Stability of active ingredients) Each composition was left at 45°C for up to two months. After two months, the percentage of ferulic acid remaining after storage at 45°C for two months was measured by HPLC and calculated as a function of the initial percentage (24 hours after formation) measured by HPLC. The stability of ferulic acid was then evaluated according to the following criteria. Excellent: Ferulic acid retention rate (%) ≥ 95 Good: 90≦ferulic acid residual rate (%)<95 Possible: 80≦ferulic acid residual rate (%)<90 Defective: Ferulic acid residual rate (%) <80

[0206] (Odor evaluation) The odor of each composition was evaluated by five panelists who scored it on a scale from 0 (no odor) to 1 (odor detected). The total scores were calculated and classified according to the following criteria. OK: Total=0 NG:1≦total≦5

[0207] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0208] [Table 1]

[0209] As shown in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention, which include combinations of components (a) to (c), exhibited good color stability and were able to suppress crystal formation, degradation of the active ingredient (ferulic acid), and malodor.

[0210] On the other hand, compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3, which did not contain a specific amount of (b)β-hydroxy acid, exhibited poor color stability and / or failed to suppress crystal formation and degradation of the active ingredient.

[0211] Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, and in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratin substances, because it can effectively deliver cosmetic active ingredients to keratin substances.

Claims

1. (a) at least one cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water, (b) at least one polyol, (c) an amount of 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, at least one β-hydroxy acid and A composition containing the following:

2. (a) A cosmetic active ingredient that is sensitive to water is given by formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, A is OR 3 Group (where R 3 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C 1 to C 18 alkyl group, a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group, a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl-C 1 to C 5 alkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion). and NHR 4 group (in the formula, R 4 This includes hydrogen atoms, phytyl groups, benzyl groups, and linear or branched C atoms. 1 ~C 18 Alkyl alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 (Selected from alkyl groups) Selected from, R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, C 1 ~C 6 Alkoxy groups, linear or branched carbon atoms 1 ~C 18 Alkyl alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 Selected from alkyl groups, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and C 1 ~C 6 [Selected from alkoxy groups] The composition according to claim 1, selected from cinnamic acid derivatives represented by

3. (a) The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.

4. (b) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyol is selected from linear or branched diols and triols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

5. (b) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyol comprises at least two polyols selected from diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and triols selected from glycerin.

6. (b) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyol comprises a combination of at least one diol selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol, and at least one triol, which is glycerin.

7. (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the β-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives.

8. (c) β-hydroxy acids are salicylic acid and the following formula (II): 【Chemistry 2】 [In the formula, R1 is a hydroxyl group, or formula: -O-CO-R4 (In the formula, R4 is an amine or thiol functional group that is optionally substituted with a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing 1 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or with an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms.) It represents the ester of, R2 and R3 are independently located at the 3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th position on the benzene ring, and are independently of each other a hydrogen atom or the following group: -(ABOUT) n -(WHAT) m -R5 (In the formula, n and m are integers that are independently equal to either 0 or 1.) This represents that, however, R2 and R3 cannot be hydrogen atoms at the same time. R5 represents a linear, branched, or cyclized saturated aliphatic group containing a hydrogen atom and 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated group containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms having 1 to 9 conjugated double bonds or non-conjugated double bonds, and these groups may be substituted with at least one substituent selected from a halogen atom (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine), a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in its free form or esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl group in its free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, selected from the alkylated derivative of or a salt of such derivative.

9. (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the β-hydroxy acid is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (a) a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in the composition is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1.5% to 4% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of (b) polyol in the composition is in the range of 50% to 98% by mass, preferably 62.5% to 95% by mass, and more preferably 75% to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one oil, preferably at least one ester oil.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the amount of oil in the composition is in the range of 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 8% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 6% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the water content in the composition is less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, more preferably less than 5% by mass, even more preferably less than 1% by mass, and particularly less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, or the composition does not contain water or is substantially water-free.

15. A method for treating and / or caring for a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous substance.

Citation Information

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