Skin care formulations containing phenylpropionic acid derivatives and methods of using same

Abstract

A skin care composition is provided that includes an emollient, a thickener, an emulsifier, a moisturizer, and a compound having retinol-like activity. Also provided is a method of treating skin, comprising topically applying the skin care composition to the skin. Also provided is a skin care composition that includes: a) dimethicone; b) a thickener selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof; c) an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan olivate, cetearyl olivate, and combinations thereof; d) glycerin; and e) a polar plant extract of Acronichia acidula.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates generally to compositions suitable for use on the skin, and in particular to compositions that activate the retinoic acid pathway. [Background technology]

[0002] Human skin undergoes certain aging processes, some of which are due to intrinsic processes (e.g., chronological aging) and some of which are due to extrinsic factors (e.g., photoaging). In addition, temporary or even permanent changes to the skin can occur, such as acne, oily or dry skin, keratosis, rosacea, photosensitivity, inflammatory, erythematous, and allergic or autoimmune reactions, such as dermatitis and photodermatosis.

[0003] The consequences of the aging process described above can include thinning of the skin, weakening of the epidermis and dermis intertwining, and a decrease in the number of cells and blood vessel supply. These consequences are often undesirable, and individuals suffering from these problems turn to topical treatments to address them.

[0004] Retinoids have been used to treat skin conditions caused by intrinsic aging, extrinsic factors, acne, or skin diseases.However, despite the beneficial effects of retinoid treatment, its benefits are limited due to the skin irritation caused by retinoids.These side effects limit the use of retinoids, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

[0005] To date, the search for alternative compounds to replace retinoids, and particularly for individuals with sensitive skin, has met with some success in treating age-related skin conditions such as skin atrophy, acne, photoaging, and in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, stretch marks, or cellulite. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] Thus, there is a need for alternatives to traditional retinoids, and formulations for delivering these alternatives, that are effective yet gentle enough for use on individuals with sensitive skin. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a. an emollient; b. a thickening agent; c. an emulsifier; d. moisturizer; e. Formula I:

[0008] [ka] A compound of the formula: R1 is C1~C 20 Alkyl, C2-C 20 Alkenyl, C2-C 20 selected from the group consisting of alkynyl, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C2-C6 alkynyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, -SC1-C6 alkyl, -SC2-C6 alkenyl, -SC2-C6 alkynyl, -SC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -NR4C1-C6 alkyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkenyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkynyl, and -NR4C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, or aryl; Y is,

[0009] [ka] a compound of formula I, or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof.

[0010] In one or more embodiments, R1 is a C5-C 16 Alkyl, C5-C 16 Alkenyl and C5-C 16 In some embodiments, R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, and -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4 where R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; and Y is -(CH2-CH2)- or -(CH=CH)-. In some embodiments, R1 is selected from the group consisting of C5-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, and -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4 where R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; and Y is -(CH2-CH2)- or -(CH=CH)-. 16alkenyl, and R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen or -OC1-C3 alkyl. In one or more embodiments, the compound of Formula I is selected from the group consisting of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-hydroxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-propionic acid, ethyl esters thereof, and combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compound of Formula I is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid. In one or more embodiments, the concentration of the compound of Formula I is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the skin care composition comprises a plant extract comprising the compound of Formula I. In one or more embodiments, the plant extract comprises an extract of a plant of the genus Acronychia. In some embodiments, the plant extract is an extract of Acronychia acidula. In one or more embodiments, the plant extract is a polar extract. In some embodiments, the plant extract is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the extract of Acronychia acidula comprises 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid at a concentration ranging from about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emollient is a silicone or silicone-based emollient. In one or more embodiments, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone, cetyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, caprylyl methicone, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the emollient is present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight. In one or more embodiments, the thickening agent is a rheology modifier that provides bulk to the composition and is compatible at a pH below about 5.In some embodiments, the thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, carbomer, and combinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the thickening agent is present at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight. In some embodiments, the emulsifier comprises a liquid crystal emulsifier. In one or more embodiments, the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan olivate, cetearyl olivate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, sorbitan stearate, sorbityl laurate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the emulsifier is present at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight. In one or more embodiments, the humectant comprises a polar humectant. In some embodiments, the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the humectant is present in a concentration of about 0.5% to about 15% by weight.

[0011] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method of treating skin, the method comprising topically applying to the skin any of the above skin care compositions.

[0012] In some embodiments, the methods involve increasing CRABP2 expression in skin cells.

[0013] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for producing a semiconductor device comprising: a. Dimethicone, b. a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof; c. an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, and combinations thereof; d. Glycerin, e. A polar plant extract of Acronichia acidula, and a skin care composition comprising the same. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] It is believed that one skilled in the art can, based on the description herein, utilize the present invention to its fullest extent. The following specific embodiments are to be construed as merely illustrative, and not limitative of the following disclosure in any way.

[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Furthermore, all publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference.

[0016] Unless otherwise specified, percentages used to express amounts of ingredients are weight percent (also referred to as "weight %, "wt %, "% by weight", or "%(W / W)"). Similarly, weight ratios used to express relative proportions of ingredients are also determined using weight percent (i.e., the weight ratio is calculated by dividing the weight percent of one ingredient by the weight percent of another ingredient). Unless otherwise specified, all ranges are inclusive of their endpoints; for example, "4 to 9" includes the endpoints 4 and 9.

[0017] As used herein, a composition that is "essentially free" of a component refers to a composition that has about 2% by weight or less of the component, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition that is essentially free of a component has about 1% by weight or less of the component, more preferably about 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably about 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably about 0.05% by weight or less, and more preferably about 0.01% by weight or less of the component, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain more preferred embodiments, a composition that is essentially free of a component does not include the component, i.e., the component is not present in the composition.

[0018] As used herein, "cosmetically / dermatologically acceptable" means that the ingredient it describes is suitable for use in contact with tissue (e.g., skin or hair) without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic reaction, etc. As will be recognized by those skilled in the art, cosmetically / dermatologically acceptable salts are acidic / anionic or basic / cationic salts.

[0019] As used herein, a "safe and effective amount" means an amount of an extract or composition that is sufficient to induce the desired effect, but small enough to avoid serious side effects. A safe and effective amount of a compound, extract, or composition will vary depending, for example, on the age, health, and environmental exposure of the end user, the duration and nature of the treatment, the particular extract, ingredient, or composition used, the particular pharmaceutically acceptable carrier used, and similar factors.

[0020] As used herein, the term "about" refers to within 5%, within 4%, within 3%, within 2.5%, within 2%, or within 1% by weight of the disclosed value.

[0021] Generally, IUPAC nomenclature is used herein in accordance with the following definitions of terms.

[0022] The term "substituted" refers to a core molecule in which one or more hydrogen atoms have been replaced with a substituent, in the amount permitted by available valences. Substitution is not limited to the core molecule, but can also occur on substituent radicals, thereby rendering the radical a linking group.

[0023] The term "independently selected" refers to two or more substituents that may be selected from a substituent variable group, and the selected substituents may be the same or different.

[0024] The term "dependently selected" refers to one or more substituent variables that are specified in a specified combination for substitution within a core molecule (e.g., a variable that refers to a group of substituents listed in a table of compounds).

[0025] Acceptable salts derived from inorganic bases include, for example, sodium or potassium salts, etc. Acceptable salts derived from organic bases include, for example, salts formed with primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, etc.

[0026] One aspect of the present invention is (a) an emollient; (b) a thickener; and (c) an emulsifier; (d) a moisturizer; (e) Formula I:

[0027] [ka] A compound of the formula: R1 is C1~C 20 Alkyl, C2-C 20 Alkenyl, C2-C 20 selected from the group consisting of alkynyl, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C2-C6 alkynyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, -SC1-C6 alkyl, -SC2-C6 alkenyl, -SC2-C6 alkynyl, -SC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -NR4C1-C6 alkyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkenyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkynyl, and -NR4C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, or aryl; Y is,

[0028] [ka] a compound of formula I, or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof.

[0029] The compositions described herein have surprisingly been found to activate various biomarkers associated with retinoids, known for their anti-acne, anti-aging, and skin barrier properties. Furthermore, the formulation components as a whole can enhance the delivery of retinol-like compounds.

[0030] emollients As used herein, an emollient refers to a compound that helps maintain the soft, smooth, and supple appearance of the skin (e.g., by remaining on the surface or stratum corneum of the skin to act as a lubricant). Examples of emollients include those found in Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, by G Zocchi) of Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, NY), and include, but are not limited to, esters (e.g., isopropyl palmitate), petrolatum, hexyldecyl stearate, and vegetable, nut, and plant oils and butters such as Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Euphorbia chelifera (candelilla) wax (hydrogenated vegetable oil, vegetable oil, macadamia nut oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, palm oil, primrose oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, and avocado oil).

[0031] In one or more embodiments, the emollient comprises a silicone or silicone-based emollient (i.e., a compound containing silicone units). In still further embodiments, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone, cetyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, caprylyl methicone, and combinations thereof.

[0032] The emollient may be present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 15%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, or about 1.5% to about 3.5% of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the emollient comprises dimethicone and may be present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 15%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, or about 1.5% to about 3.5% of the total composition.

[0033] thickener As used herein, "viscosity increaser" (also known as thickeners) refers to compounds that function as rheology modifiers that provide bulk to the composition. Examples of such thickening agents include carbomers (e.g., CARBOPOL ULTREZ 30 polymer), cetyl alcohol, electrolytes (e.g., sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, magnesium chloride), naturally occurring polysaccharides (e.g., xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, guar (e.g., Chamopsis tetragono (guar) gum, cassia gum, Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) gum, alginic acid and alginate gums (e.g., algin, calcium alginate), gellan gum, pectin, microcrystalline cellulose), derivatives of natural polysaccharides (e.g., hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl guar, carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar, C18-22 hydroxyalkyl hydroxypropyl guar), alkali-swellable emulsion (ASE) polymers (e.g., available under the trade name Carbopol® AQUA from Noveon Consumer Specialties, Brecksville, Ohio). Acrylate copolymer available at SF-1, and Dow Personal Care, Spring House, Pa.acrylate copolymers available under the trade name Aculyn™ 33 from Lubrizol Corp., Brecksville, Ohio), hydrophobically-modified alkali-swellable emulsion (HASE) polymers (e.g., acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, and acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer), hydrophobically-modified acid-swellable emulsion polymers (e.g., acrylates / aminoacrylate / C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer and polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer), hydrophobically-modified acrylate crosspolymers such as acrylates C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer available under the trade name Carbopol® 1382 from Lubrizol Corp., Brecksville, Ohio, sodium polyacrylate (COSMEDIA SP), and hydrophobic non-ethoxylated micellar thickeners (e.g., glyceryl oleate, cocamide MIPA, lactyl lauryl lactate, or sorbitan sesquicaprylate).

[0034] In one or more embodiments, the thickening agent is compatible at a pH below about 5. In one or more embodiments, the thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, carbomer, and combinations thereof. Suitable thickening agents are available under the trade names Sepigel 305 (INCI-polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and laureth-7), Aristoflex AVC: (INCI-ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), and CARBOPOL Ultrez 30 (INCI-carbomer).

[0035] The thickening agent may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.2 to about 4.5%, from about 0.3% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, or from about 2% to about 2.5% of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate-13 and polyisobutene and polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and combinations thereof, and is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.2% to about 4.5%, from about 0.3% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, or from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight of the total composition.

[0036] emulsifier As used herein, "emulsifier" (also known as surfactant) refers to a compound that functions to aid in the formation and / or stabilization of emulsions. Surfactants / emulsifiers can include anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants. Suitable emulsifiers include olive-derived emulsifiers, such as olivate. For example, one suitable emulsifier is Olivem 1000 (sold by Hallstar), which is a combination of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate. Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylate alkyl polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof. One suitable nonionic surfactant is a polyoxyethylene derivative of a polyol ester, the polyoxyethylene derivative of the polyol ester being (1) derived from (a) a fatty acid containing from about 8 to about 22, preferably from about 10 to about 14, carbon atoms, and (b) a polyol selected from sorbitol, sorbitan, glucose, α-methylglucoside, polyglucose having an average of from about 1 to about 3 glucose residues per molecule, glycerin, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof; (2) containing an average of from about 10 to about 120, preferably from about 20 to about 80 oxyethylene units; and (3) having an average of from about 1 to about 3 fatty acid residues per mole of the polyoxyethylene derivative of the polyol ester.

[0037] Examples of polyoxyethylene derivatives of polyol esters include, but are not limited to, PEG-80, sorbitan laurate, and polysorbate 20. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, a sorbitan monoester of lauric acid ethoxylated with an average of about 80 moles of ethylene oxide, is commercially available from ICI Surfactants (Wilmington, Del.) under the trade name "Atlas G-4280." Polysorbate 20, a laurate monoester of a mixture of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides condensed with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide, is commercially available from ICI Surfactants (Wilmington, Del.) under the trade name "Tween 20."

[0038] Another class of nonionic surfactants comprises long-chain alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, which are the condensation products of (a) long-chain alcohols containing from about 6 to about 22, preferably from about 8 to about 14, carbon atoms with (b) glucose or glucose-containing polymers. Alkyl polyglucosides have from about 1 to about 6 glucose residues per alkyl glucoside molecule. A preferred glucoside is decyl glucoside, which is the condensation product of decyl alcohol with a glucose polymer and is commercially available from Henkel Corporation (Hoboken, NJ) under the trade name "Plantaren 2000."

[0039] Examples of amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, amphocarboxylates such as alkylamphoacetates (mono- or di-), alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylsultaines, alkylamphophosphates, phosphorylated imidazolines such as phosphobetaines and pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkylalkylpolyamines, alkylimino-dipropionates, alkylamphoglycinates (mono- or di-), alkylamphopropionates (mono- or di-), N-alkyl β-aminopropionic acids, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "amphoteric" refers to 1) molecules containing both acidic and basic sites, such as, for example, amino acids containing both amino (basic) and acid (e.g., carboxylic acid, acidic) functional groups, or 2) zwitterionic molecules that possess both positive and negative charges within the same molecule. The latter charges can be either dependent on or independent of the pH of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants are disclosed herein without a counterion. Those skilled in the art will readily recognize that under the pH conditions of the compositions of the present invention, amphoteric surfactants are either electrically neutral by virtue of having balanced positive and negative charges, or have a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth, or ammonium counterion.

[0040] Classes of cationic surfactants include alkyl quaternaries (mono-, di-, and tri-), benzyl quaternaries, ester quaternaries, ethoxylated quaternaries, alkyl amines, and mixtures thereof, where the alkyl group has from about 6 carbon atoms to about 30 carbon atoms, with from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms being preferred. These cationic surfactants may be used in the compositions of the present invention in amounts of from about 0.01% to about 18%, or from about 0.05% to about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In one or more embodiments, the emulsifier comprises a liquid crystal emulsifier. In one or more embodiments, the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, sorbitan stearate, sorbityl laurate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate, and combinations thereof. Suitable emulsifiers are available under the trade names Montanov L (INCI-C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol), Arlacel LC (INCI-sorbitan stearate (and) sorbitan laurate), and Oleamuls® WO: (INCI-polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate).

[0042] The emulsifier may be present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4.5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.2% to about 3.5%, about 0.2% to about 3%, about 0.2% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.7%, or about 0.5% to about 1.5% of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, and combinations thereof, and is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4.5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.2% to about 3.5%, about 0.2% to about 3%, about 0.2% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.7%, or about 0.5% to about 1.5% of the total composition.

[0043] moisturizer As used herein, " moisturizer " refers to the compound (for example, hygroscopic compound) intended to increase the moisture content of the uppermost layer of skin.Suitable moisturizer examples include those found in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001, Marcel Dekker, Inc. (New York, NY)), Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, written by G Zocchi), and include but are not limited to, for example, glycerin, sorbitol or trehalose (for example, α,α-trehalose, β,β-trehalose, α,β-trehalose), or its salt or ester (for example, trehalose-6-phosphate).

[0044] Any variety of commercially available moisturizers are suitable for use in the present invention.Moisturizer refers to a compound (for example, hygroscopic compound) that is intended to increase the moisture content of the uppermost layer of skin.Examples of suitable moisturizers include those found in Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, by G Zocchi) of Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, 2001, published by Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, NY), including but not limited to glycerin, sorbitol or trehalose (for example, α,α-trehalose, β,β-trehalose, α,β-trehalose), or their salt or ester (for example, trehalose-6-phosphate).

[0045] In a further embodiment, the humectant comprises a polar humectant, hi a further embodiment, the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0046] The humectant may be present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 14%, about 0.8% to about 13%, about 1% to about 12%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 8.5%, about 3% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, or 7.5% to about 8.5% by weight of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the humectant comprises glycerin and is present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 14%, about 0.8% to about 13%, about 1% to about 12%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 8.5%, about 3% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, or 7.5% to about 8.5% of the total composition.

[0047] Compounds of formula (I) As noted above, compounds of formula (I) have the structure:

[0048] [ka] During the ceremony, R1 is C1~C 20 Alkyl, C2-C 20 Alkenyl, C2-C 20 selected from the group consisting of alkynyl, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C2-C6 alkynyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, -SC1-C6 alkyl, -SC2-C6 alkenyl, -SC2-C6 alkynyl, -SC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -NR4C1-C6 alkyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkenyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkynyl, and -NR4C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, or aryl; Y is,

[0049] [ka] is represented by a structure, or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof.

[0050] In one or more embodiments, R1 is a C5-C 16 Alkyl, C5-C 16 Alkenyl and C5-C 16 In some embodiments, R1 is selected from the group consisting of C5-C6 alkyl, -C2-C6 alkenyl, -C2-C6 alkynyl, and -C3-C8 cycloalkyl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4 where R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; and Y is -(CH2-CH2)- or -(CH=CH)- (or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof). ...16 alkenyl, and R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen or -OC1-C3 alkyl. In one or more embodiments, the compound of Formula I is selected from the group consisting of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-hydroxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-propionic acid, ethyl esters thereof, and combinations of two or more thereof. In one or more embodiments, the compound of Formula I is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester. In a preferred embodiment, the compound of Formula I is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid. 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester can be synthesized using conventional organic synthesis processes.

[0051] The compound of formula I may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.00001% to 10%, or from about 0.0001 to about 10%, or from about 0.001 to about 5%, or from about 0.001% to about 1%, or from about 0.01% to about 3%, or from about 0.01% to about 1%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.005% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.005% to about 0.06%, or from about 0.009% to about 0.06%, or from about 0.009% to about 0.03%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0052] The compound according to formula I can also be obtained from natural sources. For example, the compound according to formula I can be found in a plant extract. Thus, the composition can include a plant extract containing the compound of formula I.

[0053] In one or more embodiments, the plant extract is an extract of a plant of the genus Acronychia. In further embodiments, the plant extract is an extract of Acronychia acidula (also known as lemon aspen). In one or more embodiments, at least one compound of Formula I above is present in the Acronychia extract at a concentration of about 0.01 to about 30%, or about 0.1 to about 30%, or about 0.1 to about 20%, or about 1 to about 20%, or about 1 to about 10%, or about 1.5 to about 9%, or about 3 to about 9% or more by weight of the Acronychia extract. In further embodiments, the Acronychia acidula extract contains 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid at a concentration ranging from about 1% to about 10% based on the total weight of the extract.

[0054] Suitable extracts can be obtained using conventional methods including, but not limited to, grinding, maceration, pressing, squeezing, grinding, centrifugation, and / or cold irrigation, stirring / distillation, microwave-assisted extraction, supercritical / subcritical CO2 compressed gas extraction with or without polar modifiers, pressurized solvent extraction, accelerated solvent extraction, pressurized or regular hot water extraction, surfactant-assisted pressurized hot water extraction, oil extraction, membrane extraction, Soxhlet extraction, gold finger distillation / extraction, and / or direct extraction of material from biomass by, for example, the processes disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 7,442,391, 7,473,435, and 7,537,791 (Integrated Botanical Technologies, LLC), which are incorporated herein by reference, or by other methods such as solvent extraction.

[0055] Any of a variety of solvents, including polar solvents, nonpolar solvents, or combinations of two or more thereof, may be used in methods involving solvent extraction. Suitable polar solvents include polar inorganic solvents such as water; polar organic solvents such as alcohols and corresponding organic acids, e.g., C1-C8 alcohols, including methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.; organic acids, including acetic acid, formic acid, propanoic acid, etc.; polyols and glycols, including C1-C8 polyols / glycols, etc.; and combinations of two or more thereof. Suitable nonpolar solvents include nonpolar organic solvents, e.g., alkanes, including C1-C8 alkanes; cycloalkanes, including C1-C8 alkanes; alkyl ethers, including C1-C8 alkyl ethers; petroleum ether; ketones, including C1-C8 ketones; methylene chloride; ethyl acetate; xylene; toluene; chloroform; vegetable oil; mineral oil; and the like. In another embodiment, the extraction can be obtained by supercritical fluid extraction with or without the use of non-polar solvents as described above or polar modifiers such as C1-C8 alcohols, water, C1-C8 polyols / glycols, or C1-C8 organic acids.

[0056] In one or more embodiments, the extract comprises an extract of Acronychia acidula. In some embodiments, the extract of the present invention comprises a combination of polar and non-polar extracts of the fruit of Acronychia acidula. In other embodiments, the extract of the present invention comprises an alcoholic or glycolic extract of the fruit of Acronychia acidula.

[0057] In one or more embodiments, the extract is a polar extract. In further embodiments, the extract is prepared using a polar solvent including water, a C1-C8 alcohol, a C1-C8 polyol, or a C1-C8 glycol, or a combination of two or more thereof. In certain embodiments, the extract is extracted using one or more C1-C4 alcohols, C1-C4 polyols, and / or C1-C4 glycols. In one or more embodiments, the extract is prepared using a solvent including methanol, ethanol, or a combination thereof with or without water. In further embodiments, the extract is a polar extract extracted from the fruit of Acronychia acidula using a combination of alcohol and water.

[0058] In one or more embodiments, the extract is a non-polar extract prepared using a non-polar solvent comprising one or more C1-C8 alkanes, C1-C8 cycloalkanes, C1-C8 alkyl ethers, C1-C8 alkyl esters, and / or chloroform, more preferably one or more C1-C8 alkanes, C1-C8 alkyl esters, and / or chloroform. In further embodiments, the extract is a non-polar extract prepared using hexane, ethyl acetate, chloroform, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In yet further embodiments, the extract is a non-polar extract prepared using ethyl acetate.

[0059] For example, an extract using Acronychia acidula fruit can be prepared by homogenizing the fruit in a blender with an equal volume of denatured alcohol for 30 seconds. The pulp is then mixed and stirred for an additional 24 hours at ambient temperature (22-26°C). Additional denatured alcohol may be added as needed to keep the pulp well covered in alcohol. The mixture is then gravity filtered, and the resulting filter cake can be washed with additional amounts of denatured alcohol. The entire filtrate can then be dried under reduced pressure to remove the alcohol. The residue can then be freeze-dried to obtain a dry substance free of the extractant and water. The extraction can be repeated several times on the filter cake, with each extraction routinely yielding an extract yield of 5-7%.

[0060] Another example of the preparation of Acronychia acidula fruit extract is as follows: 500 gm of freeze-dried Acronychia acidula fruit can be sliced ​​into approximately 5 mm cubes and immersed in 5 L of ethanol at a 1:10 ratio (material to solvent) and stirred at room temperature for 12 hours. The suspension can then be filtered, and the resulting filtrate can be concentrated under low pressure to obtain a concentrate. The concentrate can then be further dried by freeze-drying to obtain 325 gm of residual material, referred to as the crude extract (65% yield). A 200 gm sample of the crude extract can then be dissolved in 1 L of ethanol and stirred overnight at room temperature. The mixture can then be filtered and dried under reduced pressure and low temperature to obtain the extract.

[0061] The extract may be present in an amount of about 0.00001, 0.0001, 0.001, 0.01, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 1.5, or 2 to about 0.00005, 0.0005, 0.005, 0.05, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, or 5 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 5 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.1 wt.% to about 3 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.2 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the extract is present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0062] The above embodiments may be combined in any suitable combination. For example, in an exemplary embodiment, the skin care composition comprises a. Dimethicone, b. a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof; c. an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, and combinations thereof; d. Glycerin, e. Polar plant extract of Acronichia acidula, and

[0063] Other ingredients Any suitable carrier can be used in the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, in skin care compositions, the carrier is a cosmetically acceptable carrier. As will be recognized by those skilled in the art, a cosmetically acceptable carrier includes a carrier suitable for use in contact with the body, particularly the skin, for anti-aging applications without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic reaction, etc. A safe and effective amount of carrier is from about 50% to about 99.999%, preferably from about 80% to about 99.9%, more preferably from about 99.9% to about 95%, and most preferably from about 99.8% to about 98% of the composition. The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms. For example, emulsion carriers are useful herein, including, but not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, and oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions. These emulsions can cover a wide range of viscosities, for example, from about 100 cP to about 200,000 cP. Examples of suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include cosmetically acceptable solvents and materials for cosmetic solutions, suspensions, lotions, creams, serums, essences, gels, toners, sticks, sprays, ointments, cleansing solutions and bar soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners, pastes, foams, mousses, powders, shaving creams, wipes, patches, strips, powered patches, microneedle patches, bandages, hydrogels, film-forming products, facial and skin masks, makeup, liquid drops, etc. These product types may contain several types of cosmetically acceptable carriers, including, but not limited to, solutions, suspensions, emulsions such as microemulsions and nanoemulsions, gels, solids, liposomes, other encapsulation technologies, etc. In one or more embodiments, the composition is in the form of a solution, suspension, emulsion, lotion, cream, serum, gel, stick, spray, ointment, liquid wash, bar soap, shampoo, hair conditioner, paste, foam, powder, mousse, shaving cream, hydrogel, or film-forming product.

[0064] The following are non-limiting examples of such carriers. Other carriers can be formulated by those skilled in the art. In one embodiment, the carrier comprises water. In further embodiments, the carrier may further comprise one or more aqueous or organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, dimethyl isosorbide; isopropyl myristate; cationic, anionic, and nonionic surfactants; vegetable oils; mineral oils; waxes; gums; synthetic and natural gelling agents; alkanols; glycols, and polyols. Examples of glycols include, but are not limited to, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, capryl glycol, glycerol, butanediol, and hexanetriol, as well as copolymers or mixtures thereof. Examples of alkanols include, but are not limited to, those having from about 2 carbon atoms to about 12 carbon atoms (e.g., from about 2 carbon atoms to about 4 carbon atoms), such as isopropanol and ethanol. Examples of polyols include, but are not limited to, those having from about 2 carbon atoms to about 15 carbon atoms (e.g., from about 2 carbon atoms to about 10 carbon atoms), such as propylene glycol. The organic solvent may be present in the carrier in an amount of from about 1% to about 99.99% (e.g., from about 20% to about 50%) based on the total weight of the carrier. Water may be present in the carrier in an amount of from about 5% to about 95% (e.g., from about 50% to about 90%) based on the total weight of the carrier (prior to use). The solution can contain any suitable amount of solvent, including from about 40% to about 99.99%. Particularly preferred solutions contain from about 50% to about 99.9%, about 60% to about 99%, about 70% to about 99%, about 80% to about 99%, or about 90% to about 99%.

[0065] Lotions can be made from such solutions. Lotions typically contain at least one emollient in addition to a solvent. Lotions can contain about 1% to about 20% (e.g., about 5% to about 10%) of emollient and about 50% to about 90% (e.g., about 60% to about 80%) of water. As used herein, "emollient" refers to a material used to prevent or reduce dryness and protect skin or hair. Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, those listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, eds. Wenninger and McEwen, pp. 1656-61, 1626, and 1654-55 (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Assoc., Washington, DC, 7th Edition, 1997) (hereinafter, "ICI Handbook").

[0066] Another type of product that can be formulated from a solution is a cream, which typically contains about 5% to about 50% (e.g., about 10% to about 20%) emollient and about 45% to about 85% (e.g., about 50% to about 75%) water.

[0067] Yet another type of product that can be formulated from a solution is an ointment. Ointments can contain a simple base of animal, vegetable, or synthetic oils, or semi-solid hydrocarbons. Ointments can contain from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient and from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent.

[0068] The compositions useful in the present invention can also be formulated as emulsions. When the carrier is an emulsion, about 1% to about 10% (e.g., about 2% to about 5%) of the carrier contains an emulsifier. The emulsifier may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. Examples of emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, those described on pages 1673 to 1686 of the ICI Handbook.

[0069] Lotions and creams can be formulated as emulsions. Such lotions typically contain 0.5% to about 5% emulsifier, and such creams typically contain about 1% to about 20% (e.g., about 5% to about 10%) emollient, about 20% to about 80% (e.g., about 30% to about 70%) water, and about 1% to about 10% (e.g., about 2% to about 5%) emulsifier.

[0070] Single-phase emulsion skin care formulations, such as lotions and creams, of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil types, are well known in the art and are useful in the present invention. Multiphase emulsion compositions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil types, are also useful in the present invention. Generally, such single-phase or multiphase emulsions contain water, emollients, and emulsifiers as essential ingredients.

[0071] The compositions of the present invention can also be formulated as gels (e.g., aqueous, alcohol, alcohol / water, or oil gels using a suitable gelling agent). Suitable gelling agents for aqueous and / or alcoholic gels include, but are not limited to, natural gums, acrylic acid and acrylate polymers and copolymers, and cellulose derivatives (e.g., hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose). Suitable gelling agents for oils (such as mineral oil) include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers and hydrogenated ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymers. Such gels typically contain from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of such gelling agents.

[0072] The compositions of the present invention can also be formulated into solid preparations (e.g., wax-based sticks, bar soap compositions, powders, or wipes). The compositions of the present invention can also be combined with solid, semi-solid, or soluble substrates (e.g., wipes, masks, pads, gloves, or strips).

[0073] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise any of a variety of additional cosmetic active agents, which are preferably formulated for use on the skin. Examples of suitable additional active agents include additional skin whitening agents, tanning agents, anti-acne agents, gloss regulators, antimicrobial agents (e.g., anti-yeast, anti-fungal, and anti-bacterial agents), anti-inflammatory agents, anti-parasitic agents, external analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotective agents, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, detergents / surfactants, moisturizers, nutrients, vitamins, energy enhancers, antiperspirants, skin astringents, deodorants, hair removal agents, hair growth enhancers, hair growth retardants, stabilizers, hydration enhancers, efficacy enhancers, anti-callus agents, skin conditioning agents, anti-cellulite agents, fluorides, tooth whitening agents, anti-tartar agents, and tartar dissolving agents, malodor inhibitors (e.g., malodor masking agents), or pH modifiers.Examples of various suitable additional cosmetically acceptable actives include hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol, UV filters, including, but not limited to, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), bisdisulizole disodium (Neo Heliopan AP), diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), octyl salicylate (octisalate), padimate O (Escalol 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX), trolamine salicylate, bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone 1-12, dioxybenzone, drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), octocrylene, oxybenzone (Eusolex 4360), sulisobenzone, bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, carotenoids, free radical scavengers, spin traps, retinoids and retinoid precursors such as retinol, retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate, ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, hormones such as estrogen, steroids such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol, copper salts such as copper chloride, copper-containing peptides such as Cu:Gly-His-Lys, coenzyme Q10, amino acids such as proline, vitamins, lactobionic acid, acetyl coenzyme A, niacin, riboflavin, thiamine, ribose, electron transporters such as NADH and FADH2, and other plant extracts such as oat, aloe vera, feverfew, soybean, and shiitake mushroom extracts, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0074] In one or more embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are skin care compositions comprising a compound of Formula I and at least one skin-lightening active agent. Examples of suitable skin-lightening active agents include, but are not limited to, tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin inhibitors, melanosome transfer inhibitors (including PAR-2 ​​antagonists), exfoliants, sunscreens, retinoids, antioxidants, tranexamic acid, skin whitening agents, allantoin, opacifiers, talc and silica, zinc salts, and other agents described in Solano et al. Pigment Cell Res. 2006, 19(550-571). Examples of suitable tyrosinase inhibitors include, but are not limited to, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, resorcinol, hydroquinone, flavones (e.g., licorice flavanoids, licorice root extract, mulberry root extract, Dioscorea Coposita root extract, Saxifragaceae extract, etc.), ellagic acid, salicylates and derivatives, glucosamine and derivatives, fullerenes, hinokitiol, diacids, acetylglucosamine, magnolignans, combinations of two or more thereof, etc. Examples of vitamin C derivatives include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and vitamin C-rich natural extracts. Examples of vitamin E derivatives include, but are not limited to, α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, α-tocotrienol, β-tocotrienol, γ-tocotrienol, δ-tocotrienol, and mixtures thereof, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol phosphate, and natural extracts rich in vitamin E derivatives.Examples of resorcinol derivatives include, but are not limited to, resorcinol, 4-substituted resorcinols, such as 4-butylresorcinol (rucinol), 4-hexylresorcinol, phenylethylresorcinol, 4-alkylresorcinols such as 1-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl)-propane, and resorcinol-rich natural extracts. Examples of salicylates include, but are not limited to, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, and salts thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor includes a 4-substituted resorcinol, a vitamin C derivative, or a vitamin E derivative. In more preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor includes phenylethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, or ascorbyl-2-glucoside.

[0075] Examples of suitable melanin degrading agents include, but are not limited to, peroxides and enzymes (e.g., peroxidase and ligninase). In certain preferred embodiments, melanin inhibitors include peroxides and ligninase.

[0076] Examples of suitable melanosome transfer inhibitors include PAR-2 ​​antagonists (e.g., soybean trypsin inhibitor or Bowman-Birk inhibitor), vitamin B3 and derivatives (e.g., niacinamide), essential soybean, whole soybean, soybean extract. In certain preferred embodiments, the melanosome transfer inhibitor includes soybean extract or niacinamide.

[0077] Examples of exfoliants include, but are not limited to, alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or any combination of any of the foregoing), beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid, polyhydroxy acids such as lactobionic acid and gluconic acid), and mechanical exfoliants (e.g., microdermabrasions). In certain preferred embodiments, the exfoliant includes glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

[0078] Examples of sunscreens include avobenzone (Parsol 1789), bisdisulizole disodium (Neo Heliopan AP), diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), octyl salicylate (octisalate), padimate O (Escalol 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole), polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX), trolamine salicylate, and bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone 1-12, dioxybenzone, drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), octocrylene, oxybenzone (Eusolex 4360), sulisobenzone, bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and the like.

[0079] Examples of retinoids include, but are not limited to, retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, isotretinoin, tazarotene, bexarotene, and adapalene.In certain preferred embodiments, the retinoid is retinol.Nevertheless, in one or more embodiments, the composition is essentially free of retinoids or retinoid precursors, and in further embodiments, it is free of retinoids or retinoid precursors.

[0080] Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetylcysteine, glutathione), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, stilbenoids (e.g., resveratrol and derivatives), lactoferrin, and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl-2-glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbyl polypeptides). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopherol acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinone. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids, and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and daidzein), extracts containing resveratrol, etc. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, pine bark, feverfew, parthenolide-free feverfew, oat extract, grapefruit extract, wheat germ extract, hesperidin, grape extract, purslane extract, licochalcone, chalcone, 2,2'-dihydroxychalcone, primrose extract, propolis, and the like.

[0081] The additional cosmetic active agent may be present in the composition in any suitable amount, such as from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of the composition, such as from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, etc. In certain preferred embodiments, the amount is from 0.1% to 5%, and in other preferred embodiments, from 1% to 2%.

[0082] Various other materials may also be present in the compositions of the present invention, including, for example, chelating agents, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, conditioners, preservatives, fragrances, etc. The compositions may also include surfactants, such as those selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0083] The compositions of the present invention may further contain chelating agents (e.g., EDTA) and preservatives (e.g., parabens). Examples of suitable preservatives and chelating agents are listed on pages 1626 and 1654-55 of the ICI Handbook. Additionally, the compositions useful herein may contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants such as colorants, including dyes and pigments, opacifiers (e.g., titanium dioxide), and fragrances.

[0084] In one or more embodiments, the present invention comprises applying the compound or composition of the present invention through a substrate comprising such a material. Any suitable substrate can be used in the present invention. Examples of suitable substrates and substrate materials are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Patent Application Publication Nos. 2005 / 022683 and 2009 / 0241242, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In certain preferred embodiments, the substrate is a wipe or a facial mask.

[0085] Compositions and products containing such compositions of the present invention can be prepared using methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0086] method Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for treating skin, the method comprising topically applying to the skin a composition according to one or more embodiments of the invention. As used herein, "treatment" or "treating" refers to the improvement, prevention, or amelioration of a condition, disease, or disorder, or at least one discernible symptom thereof. In one embodiment, "treatment" or "treating" refers to the improvement, prevention, or amelioration of at least one measurable physical parameter associated with the condition, disease, or disorder being treated, which is not necessarily discernible in or by the subject being treated. In another embodiment, "treatment" or "treating" refers to inhibiting or slowing the progression of the condition, disease, or disorder, either physically (e.g., stabilization of discernible symptoms), physiologically (e.g., stabilization of physical parameters), or both. In another embodiment, "treatment" or "treating" refers to delaying the onset of the condition, disease, or disorder.

[0087] The compositions / compounds described herein may be used in skin treatments to treat acne, treat wrinkles, improve skin barrier function, and / or for skin lightening. In one or more embodiments, the treatment is for a subject with a condition or a history of a condition selected from the group consisting of atopic dermatitis, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, dry skin, and flaky skin.

[0088] The compositions of the present invention are suitable for improving skin texture or for improving skin firmness or for improving any of the conditions / symptoms described below.

[0089] As used herein, "improving skin texture" means smoothing the surface of the skin to remove either bumps or crevices in the skin surface.

[0090] As used herein, "improving skin firmness" means enhancing skin firmness or elasticity, preventing loss of skin firmness or elasticity, or preventing or treating sagging, loose and lax skin.

[0091] As used herein, "loss of elasticity" includes loss of elasticity or structural integrity of skin or tissue, including, but not limited to, sagging, loose, and flaccid tissue. Loss of elasticity or structural integrity of tissue can be the result of many factors, including, but not limited to, disease, aging, hormonal changes, mechanical trauma, environmental damage, or the application of products, such as cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, to the tissue.

[0092] As used herein, "uneven skin" means a skin condition associated with diffuse or patchy pigmentation that can be classified as hyperpigmentation, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

[0093] As used herein, "age spots" refers to a skin condition associated with redness or erythema.

[0094] As used herein, "age spots" refers to a skin condition associated with discrete pigmentation, such as small areas of darker pigmentation, which may occur on the face and hands.

[0095] Signs of skin aging also include a decrease in skin thickness and the presence of abnormal or decreased synthesis of glycoproteins, including collagen, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, elastin, or fibronectin. In one embodiment, the sign of aging is selected from abnormal or decreased synthesis of glycoproteins, including collagen, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, elastin, or fibronectin. In another embodiment, the sign of skin aging is decreased synthesis of collagen or elastin.

[0096] The example of skin aging that can be treated by topical use of the composition of the present invention includes, but is not limited to, skin wrinkles.As used herein, the term "wrinkles" includes fine lines, fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles, cellulite, scars and stretch marks.Examples of wrinkles include, but are not limited to, the fine lines around the eyes (for example, "crow's feet"), wrinkles on the forehead and cheeks, wrinkles between the eyebrows, and age lines around the mouth.

[0097] As used herein, "topical use" or "topically applying" means to paint or spread directly onto the skin, hair, or nails, for example, by using an applicator such as the hand or a wipe.

[0098] The composition is also suitable for treating or preventing acne.As used herein, "acne" refers to a disorder that results from the action of hormones and other substances on sebaceous glands and hair follicles, and typically leads to the formation of clogged pores and inflammatory or non-inflammatory lesions on the skin.In particular, this relates to spots, lesions, or pimples, pre-emergent pimples, blackheads, and / or whiteheads.As used herein, "pre-emergent pimples" are inflammatory vesicles that are not visually apparent to the naked eye (e.g., as lesions) on the surface of the skin.

[0099] The compositions of the present invention are also suitable for treating or preventing rosacea. As used herein, "rosacea" means skin with persistent erythema, with or without papules, pustules, or nodules.

[0100] The compositions of the present invention are also suitable for reducing hyperkeratosis of the epidermis and may therefore be used in the treatment or prevention of conditions characterized by hyperkeratosis, such as acne or warts.

[0101] In one or more embodiments, one or more of the methods described herein alter the expression of one or more biomarkers. For example, in one or more embodiments, the method can be a method of increasing CRABP2, HAS3, or HBEGF expression in the skin. CRABP2 is well established in the literature as a sensitive marker of retinoid bioactivity and efficacy (Elder JT, Cromie MA, Griffiths CEM, Chambon P, Voorhees JJ. Stimulus-selective induction of CRABP-II mRNA: A marker for retinoic acid action in human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1993;100(4)) and is associated with conferring anti-aging effects on the skin (Bielli A, Scioli MG, D'Amico F, Tarquini C, Agostinelli S, Costanza G, Doldo E, Campione E, Passeri D, Coniglione F, Orlandi A. Cellular retinoic acid binding protein-II expression and its potential role in skin aging. Aging (Albany NY). 2019 Mar 18;11(6):1619-1632). HAS3 is the hyaluronan synthase gene that produces hyaluronan, which is involved in skin hydration and plumping and is indirectly induced by retinol. Skin plumping provides an anti-aging or youthful appearance. Heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HbEGF). HbEGF is a marker of cell proliferation, a characteristic associated with retinol.

[0102] The compositions described herein may be applied to any skin in need of treatment in the human body. For example, they may be applied to any one or more of the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, and / or feet. In certain preferred embodiments, the method includes applying a composition according to one or more embodiments of the present invention to facial skin.

[0103] Any suitable method of applying the extract to skin in need can be used in accordance with the present invention.For example, the extract can be applied directly from the package to the skin in need, can be applied by hand to the skin in need, can be transferred from a substrate such as a wipe or mask, or can be a combination of two or more of these.In other embodiments, the extract can be applied via a dropper, tube, roller, spray, patch, or can be added to water that is to be bathed or otherwise applied to the skin.

[0104] In one or more embodiments, the method of the present invention further comprises the step of contacting the composition with the skin for a period of time. For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the compound is contacted with the skin for about 15 minutes or more after application. In certain more preferred embodiments, the extract is contacted with the skin for about 20 minutes or more, more preferably about 1 hour or more.

[0105] In some embodiments, the methods of the present invention include a regimen comprising applying the composition to the skin multiple times over a selected period of time. For example, in certain embodiments, the present invention provides a method of treating signs of aging comprising applying a composition according to one or more embodiments of the present invention to skin in need of anti-aging treatment once or twice daily for at least 12 weeks, preferably at least 8 weeks, and more preferably at least 2 weeks. [Example]

[0106] The following example evaluates compositions containing Acronychia acidula fruit extract. The example relates to the evaluation of retinol-responsive genes, such as CRABP2, HBEGF, and HAS3. Upregulation of these genes is associated with skin benefits provided by retinoids (e.g., anti-aging effects, wrinkle reduction, acne, and tone benefits).

[0107] Example 1: Preparation of the composition Five inventive compositions (Examples 1-5) and three comparative compositions (Examples 6-8) were prepared in the following manner using the amounts shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. Examples 1-5 were prepared with Acronychia acidula fruit extract. Comparative Examples 7-8 were compositions prepared without Acronychia acidula fruit extract. The compositions were prepared by adding purified water to an appropriately sized beaker. Mixing was initiated using a propeller mixing blade and the water was heated to 75-80°C. Sepimax Zen™ was slowly added to the main batch and mixed until fully hydrated and no visible particles remained, increasing the mixing speed as necessary. The mixture was reheated to 75-80°C, and then chlorphenesin and emulsifier were added and mixed until uniform and no undissolved particles remained. The solution was then cooled to 60-65°C while glycerin was added and mixed until uniform. Once the solution was cooled to 55-60°C, Sepiplus™ 400 and Acronychia acidula fruit extract (except Comparative Examples 7-8) were added and mixed until uniform. The solution was continued to cool to 40°C while mixing at a moderate speed. Dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexylglycerin were then added and mixed until uniform. An appropriate amount of water was added and the pH was adjusted. The solution was mixed until uniform and allowed to cool to room temperature. Comparative Example 6 was Acronychia acidula fruit extract (30% extract in carrier) purchased from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty Ltd. (Knockrow, NSW, Australia). The Acronychia acidula fruit extract used in the examples typically contains about 1% to 10% 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid by weight of the extract, together with the carrier, more specifically about 1% to 6% by weight. 0.01-0.06% of the total weight of the formula.

[0108] [Table 1]

[0109] [Table 2]

[0110] Example 2: Bioactivity assays of CRABP2, HBEGF, and HAS3 in human skin explants Abdominal skin samples were obtained from adult humans undergoing abdominoplasty. Informed consent was obtained from each patient, and all experimental procedures were approved by the Institutional Review Board (IRB). Subcutaneous fat was carefully removed, and 0.93 cm 2 Skin biopsies were prepared under sterile conditions and conditioned overnight in DMEM / F12 (1:1) medium, 2% heat-inactivated fetal bovine serum, 10 μg / mL insulin, 10 ng / mL hydrocortisone, 10 ng / mL EGF, and 1x ABAM in a humidified 5% CO atmosphere. Skin explants were topically treated with 4 μL of each formulation for 48 hours.

[0111] At the end of the 48-hour incubation, the skin biopsies were cut in half, and either one half or both halves of the skin biopsy were each dissolved in 600 μL of lysis buffer consisting of 100 parts RLT buffer (RNA purification kit, sold under the trade name RNEASY Mini Kit, Qiagen, Valencia, CA) and 1 part 2-mercaptoethanol in a reinforced tube with a screw cap and O-ring closure, and ceramic beads in a tube for tissue grinding (sold under the trade name PRECELLYS CKMix50-R, Bertin Corp, Rockville, MD). The tube was shaken at 6300 rpm for 40 seconds. RNA was extracted from the solution using the RNEASY Mini Kit (Qiagen, Valencia, CA) according to the manufacturer's instructions, and the RNA was eluted in 30 μL of RNase-free water. Each tissue was transferred to a hard tissue homogenization Ozyme CK28 tube (Bertin Corp, Rockville, MD) containing ceramic beads, 400 μL of RLT buffer, and 4 μL of beta-mercaptoethanol and placed on ice. After thawing, 300 μL of water and 10 μL of proteinase K (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ) were added to each tube, mixed, and incubated at 55°C for 20 minutes.

[0112] Reverse transcription (RT) was performed using the Applied Biosystems High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ). Gene expression assays were performed for cellular retinoic acid binding protein 2 (CRABP2), heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HBEGF), hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3), and polymerase (RNA) II polypeptide A (POLR2A) using the TAQMAN master mix (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ). qPCR analysis was performed using the TAQMAN master mix and run on a real-time PCR system (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ). Expression of these genes was normalized to the expression of the human 18S housekeeping gene. Fold changes were calculated for CRABP2, HBEGF, and HAS3 gene expression compared to untreated or vehicle controls, and a two-tailed, two-sample Student's t-test (Microsoft Office Excel 2007; Microsoft, Redmond, WA, USA) was performed.

[0113] [Table 3]

[0114] [Table 4]

[0115] [Table 5]

[0116] As can be seen in Tables 3-4, Examples 1, 2, 3, and 5 of the present invention show enhanced expression of CRABP2 and HBEGF gene expression compared to placebo and untreated controls. CRABP2 is well established in the literature as a sensitive marker of retinoid bioactivity and efficacy (Elder JT, Cromie MA, Griffiths CEM, Chambon P, Voorhees JJ. Stimulus-selective induction of CRABP-II mRNA: A marker for retinoic acid action in human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1993;100(4)) and is associated with conferring anti-aging effects on the skin (Bielli A, Scioli MG, D'Amico F, Tarquini C, Agostinelli S, Costanza G, Doldo E, Campione E, Passeri D, Coniglione F, Orlandi A. Cellular retinoic acid binding protein-II expression and its potential role in skin aging. Aging (Albany NY). 2019 Mar 18;11(6):1619-1632). Heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HbEGF) is associated with cell proliferation, one of the hallmarks of retinoid bioactivity. Thus, this data demonstrates that examples of the present invention exhibit increased retinol-like properties and, therefore, anti-aging effects.

[0117] As can be seen in Table 5, there is an increase in HAS3 for the placebo in Comparative Example 7, and also for Examples 2-3 relative to the untreated group. HAS3, also known as hyaluronan 15 synthase 3, encodes a protein involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is associated with skin hydration and plumping and is indirectly induced by retinol. Skin plumping confers anti-aging or a youthful appearance. Thus, as can be seen in the results, upregulation of this gene is also associated with anti-aging and other retinoid actions.

[0118] Example 3: Bioactivity assay of CRABP2 and HBEGF in human skin explants (epidermis only) Abdominal skin samples were obtained from adult humans undergoing abdominoplasty. Informed consent was obtained from each patient, and all experimental procedures were approved by the Institutional Review Board (IRB). Subcutaneous fat was carefully removed, and 0.93 cm 2 Skin biopsies were transferred to 6-well plates. Skin explants were topically treated with 4 μL of each formulation prepared under sterile conditions and conditioned for 48 hours at 37°C in a 5% CO2 humidified atmosphere in Gold medium supplemented with 0.50 mL of 1x Natural Cap Vial containing hydrocortisone, 0.50 mL of 1x Natural Cap Vial containing transferrin, 0.25 mL of 1x Amber Vial containing epinephrine, 0.50 mL of 1x Red Cap Vial containing gentamicin amphotericin-1000, 2.00 mL of 1x Orange Cap Vial containing BPE, 0.50 mL of 1x Green Cap Vial containing hEGF, and 0.50 mL of 1x Lilac Cap Vial containing insulin (KGM™ Gold Keratinocyte Growth Medium SingleQuots™ Supplements and Growth Factors, Lonza).

[0119] At the end of the 48-hour incubation, each explant was placed in a tube containing 100 μL of water at 60°C to disrupt the tissue and homogenize the cells. After 50 seconds of contact, the epidermis was peeled from the dermis and transferred separately to Ozyme CK28 tubes containing beads, 400 μL of RLT, and 4 μL of beta-mercaptoethanol, and placed on ice. The Ozyme CK28 tubes containing the epidermal tissue were transferred to a tissue grinder (sold under the trade name PRECELLYS CKMix50-R (Bertin Corp, Rockville, MD)) and shaken at 5000 rpm for 60 seconds. After mini-spin centrifugation (4000 rpm), the contents of each tube, including the epidermis, were transferred to a 2 mL RNase-free Eppendorf tube and stored at -80°C. 300 μL of water was added to the tube containing the dermis. After homogenization, the contents were transferred to 2 mL Rnase-free Eppendorf tubes and stored at −80°C until further processing.

[0120] RNA was extracted from the solution. After thawing, 300 μL of water plus 10 μL of proteinase K was added to each tube containing epidermal material, mixed, and incubated at 55°C for 20 minutes. RNA was extracted using the epidermal protocol according to the manufacturer's instructions using a Qiacube HT and stored at -80°C. Samples were thawed, and the RNA concentration in 2 μL of RNA extract was assessed using a Nanodrop spectrophotometer.

[0121] Reverse transcription (RT) was performed using the Applied Biosystems High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ) and a real-time PCR detection system marketed under the trade name ICYCLER IQ (Bio-Rad Laboratories, Inc., France). Gene expression assays were performed for CRABPB2 and HBEGF. qPCR analysis was performed using a master mix marketed under the trade name POWER SYBYR Green Master Mix (ThermoFisher Scientific). Expression of these genes was normalized to the expression of the human 18S housekeeping gene. Fold changes were calculated relative to treatment or vehicle controls, and statistical analysis was performed using an analysis of variance test.

[0122] [Table 6]

[0123] [Table 7]

[0124] As can be seen from Tables 6-7, Examples 2, 4, and 5 of the present invention show enhanced expression of CRABP2 and HBEGF gene expression compared to placebo and untreated controls.

[0125] [Embodiment] (1) A skin care composition comprising: a. an emollient; b. a thickening agent; c. an emulsifier; d. moisturizer; e. Formula I: [ka] A compound of the formula: R1 is C1~C20 Alkyl, C2-C 20 Alkenyl, C2-C 20 selected from the group consisting of alkynyl, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C2-C6 alkynyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, -SC1-C6 alkyl, -SC2-C6 alkenyl, -SC2-C6 alkynyl, -SC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, -NR4C1-C6 alkyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkenyl, -NR4C2-C6 alkynyl, and -NR4C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, or aryl; Y is, [ka] a compound of formula I, or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof. (2) R1 is C5~C 16 Alkyl, C5-C 16 Alkenyl and C5-C 16 alkynyl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, -OC1-C6 alkyl, -OC2-C6 alkenyl, -OC2-C6 alkynyl, -OC3-C8 cycloalkyl; R3 is selected from -CO2H, -CO2R4 where R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; and Y is -(CH2-CH2)- or -(CH=CH)-. (3) R1 is C5~C 163. The skin care composition of embodiment 1 or 2, wherein R is selected from the group consisting of -C1-C3 alkyl, -C1-C3 alkyl, and R2 is selected from the group consisting of -C1-C3 alkyl. (4) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the compound of Formula I is selected from the group consisting of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-hydroxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-propionic acid, ethyl esters thereof, and combinations of two or more thereof. (5) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the compound of Formula I is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid.

[0126] (6) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the concentration of the compound of formula I is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001% to about 1% by weight of the total composition. (7) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the skin care composition comprises a plant extract containing the compound of formula I. (8) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein the plant extract comprises an extract of a plant of the genus Acronychia. (9) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the plant extract is an extract of Acronychia acidula. (10) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the plant extract is a polar extract.

[0127] (11) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant extract is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the total composition. (12) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 11, wherein the extract of Acronychia acidula comprises 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid at a concentration ranging from about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition. (13) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the emollient is a silicone or silicone-based emollient. (14) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone, cetyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, caprylyl methicone, and combinations thereof. (15) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emollient is present in a concentration of about 0.1% to about 15% by weight.

[0128] (16) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the thickening agent is a rheology modifier that provides bulk to the composition and is compatible at a pH of less than about 5. (17) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, carbomer, and combinations thereof. (18) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickening agent is present in a concentration of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight. (19) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 18, wherein the emulsifier comprises a liquid crystal emulsifier. (20) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, sorbitan stearate, sorbityl laurate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate, and combinations thereof.

[0129] (21) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier is present in a concentration of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight. (22) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the moisturizer comprises a polar moisturizer. (23) The skin care composition of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof. (24) The skin care composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 231, wherein the moisturizer is present in a concentration of about 0.5% to about 15% by weight. (25) A method of treating skin, comprising topically applying to the skin a skin care composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 24.

[0130] (26) The method of embodiment 25, wherein the method comprises increasing CRABP2 expression in skin cells. (27) A skin care composition comprising: a. Dimethicone, b. a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof; c. an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, and combinations thereof; d. Glycerin, e. A skin care composition comprising a polar plant extract of Acronichia acidula.

Claims

1. 1. A skin care composition comprising: a. an emollient; b. a thickening agent; c. an emulsifier; d. a moisturizer; e. Formula I: 【Chemistry 1】 A compound of the formula: R １ But C １ ~C ２０ Alkyl, C ２ ~C ２０ Alkenyl, C ２ ~C ２０ Alkynyl, and C ３ ~C ８ selected from the group consisting of cycloalkyl or aryl; R ２ is hydrogen, hydroxyl, C １ ~C ６ Alkyl, C ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, C ２ ~C ６ Alkynyl, C ３ ~C ８ cycloalkyl or aryl, —OC １ ~C ６ Alkyl, —OC ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, —OC ２ ~C ６ Alkynyl, —OC ３ ~C ８ Cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, -SC １ ~C ６ Alkyl, -SC ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, -SC ２ ~C ６ Alkynyl, -SC ３ ~C ８ cycloalkyl or aryl, —NR ４ C １ ~C ６ Alkyl, —NR ４ C ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, —NR ４ C ２ ~C ６ Alkynyl, and —NR ４ C ３ ~C ８ selected from the group consisting of cycloalkyl or aryl; R ３ But -CO ２ H, -CO ２ R ４ or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; R ４ But C １ ~C ６ Alkyl, C ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, C ３ ~C ８ cycloalkyl or aryl; Y is, 【Chemistry 2】 A compound of formula I, or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof.

2. R １ But C ５ ~C １６ Alkyl, C ５ ~C １６ Alkenyl, and C ５ ~C １６ alkynyl; R ２ is hydrogen, hydroxyl, -OC １ ~C ６ Alkyl, —OC ２ ~C ６ Alkenyl, —OC ２ ~C ６ Alkynyl, —OC ３ ~C ８ cycloalkyl; R ３ But -CO ２ H, R ４ is C １ ~C ６ -CO, which is alkyl ２ R ４ or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, and Y is selected from -(CH ２ -CH ２ 2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the aryl group is -(CH═CH)- or -(CH═CH)-.

3. R １ But C ５ ~C １６ alkenyl; R ２ is hydrogen or -OC １ ~C ３ 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the alkyl group is selected from the group consisting of alkyl.

4. 2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of Formula I is selected from the group consisting of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-hydroxyphenyl)-propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-propionic acid, ethyl esters thereof, and combinations of two or more thereof.

5. 2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of Formula I is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid.

6. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the concentration of the compound of formula I is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001% to about 1% based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the skin care composition comprises a plant extract comprising the compound of Formula I.

8. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the plant extract comprises an extract of a plant of the genus Acronychia.

9. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the plant extract is an extract of Acronychia acidula.

10. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the plant extract is a polar extract.

11. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the plant extract is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the extract of Acronychia acidula comprises 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)-propionic acid at a concentration ranging from about 0.01% to about 0.5% by total weight of the composition.

13. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the emollient is a silicone or silicone-based emollient.

14. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone, cetyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, caprylyl methicone, and combinations thereof.

15. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the emollient is present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight.

16. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the thickening agent is a rheology modifier that provides bulk to the composition and is compatible at a pH of less than about 5.

17. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, carbomer, and combinations thereof.

18. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the thickening agent is present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight.

19. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the emulsifier comprises a liquid crystal emulsifier.

20. 2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, sorbitan stearate, sorbityl laurate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate, and combinations thereof.

21. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight.

22. The skin care composition of claim 1 , wherein the humectant comprises a polar humectant.

23. 10. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof.

24. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the moisturizer is present at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight.

25. A method of treating skin, comprising topically applying to the skin the skin care composition of any one of claims 1 to 24.

26. 26. The method of claim 25, wherein the method comprises increasing CRABP2 expression in skin cells.

27. 1. A skin care composition comprising: a. Dimethicone, b. a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylate-13, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof; c. an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-olivate, cetearyl-olivate, and combinations thereof; d. glycerin; e. A skin care composition comprising a polar plant extract of Acronichia acidula.

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