Compositions, methods, and kits for semi-permanently straightening and curling keratinous fibers
The described composition and method allow for reversible conversion of hair texture between curly and straight styles using glyoxylic acid and alkyl glyceryl ethers, addressing damage issues in existing technologies.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022509127
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-08-29
- Filing Date
- 2020-08-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-23
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-08-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair straightening technologies cause damage and do not allow for easy conversion between straight and curly hairstyles.
An aqueous cosmetic composition with a pH of less than 4, containing glyoxylic acid, alkyl glyceryl ethers, lipophilic compounds, and surfactants, is applied to keratin fibers, followed by high-temperature treatment to reshape hair.
Enables reversible conversion of hair from curly to straight and back to curly without significant damage, improving the degree of straightness and curl definition.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to compositions, methods, and kits for semi-permanently straightening and curling keratinous fibers. [Background technology]
[0002] Changing one's hairstyle has always been fashionable. Already for a long time in ancient Egypt, straightening hair was popular. Women who were not blessed with this type of natural hair already used iron plates heated by fire to give their hair the desired shape. This procedure often resulted in severe burns to the face and hands. It was only since the beginning of the 19th century that straightening irons became more professional, with the invention of the hair tongs made by Marcel Grateau. Today, high-temperature instruments such as straightening irons as well as blow dryers are even more common than before. They became popular among consumers, both in beauty salons and in the mass market. These instruments work at high temperatures (up to 230 °C for straightening irons) and therefore provide satisfactory straightening results. When dry hair comes into contact with the hot iron and at the same time the right pressure is applied, the hairstyle can be fixed for a certain time until the moisture restores the hair to its original state. Unfortunately, the application of such high temperatures leads to damage to the hair, which therefore becomes rough to the touch after its use.
[0003] Until now, consumers who decide to straighten their hair have been constrained by their decision because current technology cannot restore their hair to its curly state.
[0004] Glyoxylic acid is a known ingredient in hair beauty products that provides long-lasting curl relaxation and volume reduction, especially when combined with a hot straightening iron (Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2). However, if a consumer decides to undergo such treatment, it is almost impossible to restore the original curly hair state.
[0005] US Pat. No. 5,399,633 and US Pat. No. 5,499,623 show a straightening process in combination with heat from blow drying and heat from an iron, and the use of glyoxylic acid in a post-straightening composition.
[0006] US Patent No. 5,399,633 discloses alkyl glyceryl ethers in combination with lactic acid as hair treatment agents, however the present invention requires glyoxylic acid. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2011 / 104282 [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2012 / 010351 [Patent Document 3] International Publication No. 2015 / 036051 [Patent Document 4] International Publication No. 2010 / 036052 [Patent Document 5] International Publication No. 2013 / 081018 Summary of the Invention
[0008] A first subject of the present invention is therefore an aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH of less than 4, a) glyoxylic acid and / or its salt(s) and / or its hydrate(s) b) one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof c) one or more lipophilic compounds d) one or more surfactants different from group b) The composition is an emulsion containing:
[0009] A second subject of the present invention is a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: i) applying a composition according to claims 1 to 10 to the keratin fibres and leaving it thereon for a period of 1 to 60 minutes; ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers and optionally drying the keratinous fibers. iii) treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C. iv) Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers v) optionally curling the keratin fibers with a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. vi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers The method includes:
[0010] A third subject of the present invention is a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the steps of: vii) depositing an aqueous composition having a pH of less than 4 and comprising one or more compounds of a) as defined in claims 1 to 3 viii) leaving the composition on the keratin fibers for 1 to 60 minutes ix) optionally rinsing and optionally drying the keratin fibers; x) treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C xi) applying a composition containing compounds b) to d) as defined above to the keratin fibres. xii) leaving the composition for 1 to 60 minutes xiii) optionally treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. The method includes:
[0011] A fourth subject of the invention is a kit-of-parts comprising a composition as defined above and a high-temperature instrument.
[0012] A fifth subject of the invention is a kit-of-parts comprising a first composition as defined in step vii) above and a second composition as defined in step xi) above. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0013] [Figure 1] Photograph of hair tress treated with the composition of Example 1. Photograph was taken after curling step. As can be clearly observed, hair tress treated with Comparative Composition 1 showed the weakest curl, which is due to the limited restyling ability of hair treated with Comparative Composition 1. [Diagram 2] Photograph of hair tress treated with the composition of Example 1. Photograph taken after blow drying and brushing steps. Shows degree of straightening after curling without flat iron step. As can be clearly observed, hair treated with Comparative Composition 2 shows more waviness resulting from limited degree of straightening of hair treated with Comparative Composition 2. [Diagram 3] Photograph of hair tresses treated with the composition of Example 2. The photograph was taken after the brushing and blow drying steps. As can be clearly observed, hair tresses treated with comparative compositions 3 and 4 showed more curl, especially at the tips of the tresses, whereas composition 2 of the present invention resulted in the straightest tresses. [Figure 4] Photograph of hair tresses treated with the composition of Example 2. The photograph was taken after the curling iron step. As can be clearly observed, hair tresses treated with the composition of the present invention 2 and the comparative composition 4 showed stronger curling, whereas the comparative composition 3 produced the weakest curl. [Diagram 5] Photograph of hair tresses treated with the composition of Example 3. Photograph was taken after brushing and blow drying steps. As can be clearly observed, hair tresses treated with Comparative Composition 5 were less defined and had fuzzy ends, whereas the composition of the present invention provided the most defined hair tresses. [Figure 6]Photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 3. The photograph was taken after the curling iron step. As can be clearly observed, the hair tress treated with the composition of the present invention had a very strong curl compared to the comparative composition 5. The latter had the weakest curl set. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0014] The present invention addresses the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and allows for the conversion of curly to straight hair, with the possibility of reverting back to the original curly keratinous fibers if desired. Furthermore, the straightness of the keratinous fibers is improved in the conversion from curly to straight hair, with or without a prior curling step.
[0015] The present invention provides an aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH of less than 4, comprising: a) glyoxylic acid and / or its salt(s) and / or its hydrate(s) b) one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof c) one or more lipophilic compounds d) one or more surfactants different from group b) The present invention relates to a composition which is an emulsion containing:
[0016] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the applicant has found that the compounds of b) cause a thermoplastic change in hair. It is believed that these compounds act as plasticizers for hair. Thus, the composition of the present invention allows the consumer to change their hairstyle from curly to straight and then back from straight to curly.
[0017] From the viewpoint of cosmetic acceptability and safety, it is preferred that the pH of the composition is in the range of 0.5 to 3.5, preferably in the range of 1 to 3, and more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 2.5.
[0018] From the standpoint of cosmetic acceptability and consumer usability, it is further preferred that the compositions of the present invention are oil-in-water emulsions.
[0019] Compound a) The composition of the invention comprises glyoxylic acid and / or its salt(s) and / or its hydrate(s) as compound a).
[0020] Glyoxylic acid may be used for the purposes of the present invention in its free acid form and in its hydrates. The hydrates are formed by providing an aqueous solution of glyoxylic acid and without any other pH adjusting agent, and the glyoxylic acid is present almost quantitatively as its hydrate. Furthermore, the hydrates may be condensed to dimers.
[0021] Salts of glyoxylic acid may also be used. The salts are necessarily formed by adjusting the pH of the composition with any known base. Suitable salts are alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium or calcium, or ammonium salts.
[0022] In terms of corrective efficiency, the concentration of the compound(s) of a) is preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, even more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 1% by weight or more, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] From the viewpoint of corrective efficiency and cosmetic safety, the concentration of the compound(s) of a) is preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12% by weight or less, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] To achieve the above-mentioned effects, the concentration of the compound a) is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.2% to 20% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 1% to 12% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] Compound b) The compositions of the invention comprise as compound b) one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0026] From the viewpoint of oil solubility and emulsification, it is preferred that the compound of b) has an HLB value in the range of 2 to 7. This allows the preparation of co-emulsions with the compounds of c) and d).
[0027] However, if the compounds of b) have other HLB values, they are dispersible in the aqueous phase of the compositions of the present invention.
[0028] From the viewpoint of emulsification, the alkyl chain of the compound b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number of 8 or more.
[0029] From the viewpoint of imparting thermoplastic properties to keratin fibers, it is further preferred that the alkyl chain of the compound b) is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total of 9 or more carbon atoms.
[0030] From the standpoint of emulsification, the alkyl chain of the compound b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total of 18 or less carbon atoms.
[0031] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the alkyl chain of the compound b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number in the range of 8 to 18, more preferably 9 to 18.
[0032] Suitable examples of compounds of b) are, for example, isostearyl glyceryl ether, stearyl glyceryl ether, isodecyl glyceryl ether, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, and cetyl glyceryl ether, as well as alkyl polyglyceryl ethers as disclosed in EP2003110.
[0033] From the standpoint of commercial availability and of imparting thermoplasticity to the keratin fibres, it is preferred that the compound or compounds of b) are isostearyl glyceryl ethers.
[0034] In view of the transformation of the hair quality, the total concentration of the compound or compounds under b) is preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.25% by weight, even more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] In view of the transformation of hair quality, the total concentration of the compound or compounds under b) is preferably not more than 10% by weight, more preferably not more than 8% by weight, even more preferably not more than 5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] To achieve the above mentioned effects, the total concentration of the one or more compounds under b) is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.25% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] Compound c) The compositions of the present invention comprise one or more lipophilic compounds.
[0038] The lipophilic compounds of c) are not miscible with water under atmospheric pressure at 25° C. However, these compounds are emulsifiable with the aid of compounds of d) to form emulsions.
[0039] Suitable c) compounds are fatty alcohols having linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains with a total carbon number ranging from C8 to C22, optionally substituted with OH, fatty acid esters in which linear or branched alcohols having an alkyl chain length of C3 to C22 are esterified with linear or branched fatty acids having an alkyl chain length of C12 to C22, petroleum-based compound(s), organopolysiloxane(s), vegetable oils, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0040] Suitable fatty alcohols having a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with a total carbon number ranging from C8 to C22, optionally substituted with OH, are, for example, octyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0041] Suitable fatty acid esters in which linear or branched alcohols having an alkyl chain length of C3 to C22 are esterified with linear or branched fatty acids having an alkyl chain length of C12 to C22 are, for example, octyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Suitable petroleum-based compound(s) are, for example, mineral oil, polydecene, petrolatum, paraffinum perliquidum, and paraffinum subliquidum, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0043] Suitable organopolysiloxanes are in particular those which are not soluble in water, such as dimethicones and dimethiconols of various viscosities and molecular weights, aminated silicones with primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, such as amodimethicone, polysilicone 9 and quaternium 80, cyclic silicones such as cyclomethicone, arylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicone, etc.
[0044] Suitable vegetable oils are olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, and castor oil.
[0045] In view of the stability of the emulsion, the total concentration of the compound(s) according to c) is preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, even more preferably at least 2% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] In view of emulsion stability and emulsion type, the total concentration of compound(s) c) is preferably not more than 25% by weight, more preferably not more than 20% by weight, even more preferably not more than 15% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] The composition of any of the preceding claims is characterized in that the total concentration of compound(s) under c) ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] Compound d) The composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactants as compound(s) of group d) which are different from group b).
[0049] The compounds of d) ensure the stability of the emulsion.
[0050] From the standpoint of emulsion stability, the one or more compounds of d) are preferably selected from nonionic surfactant(s), cationic surfactant(s), anionic surfactant(s), amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant(s) and / or mixtures thereof, preferably from nonionic and / or cationic surfactant(s).
[0051] A suitable nonionic surfactant preferably has an HLB value in the range of 7 to 14 from the viewpoint of emulsion stabilization.
[0052] Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, propylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol esters of fatty acids, ethoxylated or propoxylated triglycerides, alkyl polyglycosides, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0053] Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium salts with alkyl chain lengths ranging from C12 to C22. Suitable examples are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimonium chloride, dipalmitoyldimonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, dioleoylethyldimethylammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0054] Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfate or ethoxylated alkyl ether sulfate surfactants having an alkyl chain length of from C10 to C22, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0055] Suitable surfactants are laureth sulfate, coceth sulfate, pareth sulfate, capryleth sulfate, myreth sulfate, oleth sulfate, deceth sulfate, trideceth sulfate, cocosulfate, C 10 ~C 16 Alkyl sulfate, C 11 ~C 15 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 ~C 18 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 ~C 15 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 ~C 16 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 ~C 13Alkyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, myristyl sulfate, palm kernel sulfate, cetearyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, decyl sulfate, oleyl sulfate, behenyl sulfate, and / or salts thereof, and / or mixtures thereof. All of the aforementioned anionic surfactants may or may not be ethoxylated to various degrees.
[0056] Cations for anionic surfactants may be selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, and / or ammonium.
[0057] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant(s) are, for example, various known betaines, such as alkyl betaines, fatty acid amido alkyl betaines, and sulfobetaines, such as lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; long chain alkyl amino acids, such as cocoamino acetate, cocoamino propionate, sodium cocoamphopropionate and acetate, are suitable, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0058] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the most preferred surfactants are cationic surfactants, particularly cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0059] In view of emulsion stability, the total concentration of compound(s) d) is preferably greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] In view of emulsion stability, the total concentration of compound(s) d) is preferably not more than 10% by weight, more preferably not more than 5% by weight, even more preferably not more than 3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0061] To achieve the above mentioned effects, the total concentration of compound(s) d) is preferably in the range of 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] One-Step Processing The present invention relates to a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the steps of: i) applying a composition according to claims 1 to 10 to the keratin fibres and leaving it thereon for a period of 1 to 60 minutes; ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers and optionally drying the keratinous fibers. iii) treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C. iv) Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers v) optionally curling the keratin fibers with a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. vi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers The present invention also covers a method, including:
[0063] Preferably, from the standpoint of straightening, the duration of step i) is in the range of 5 to 45 minutes, more preferably in the range of 10 to 30 minutes.
[0064] In step iii), from a straightening perspective, it is preferred that the hot tool is a straightening flat iron having a surface temperature in the range of 90° C. to 230° C., more preferably in the range of 130° C. to 210° C. Alternatively, from a consumer applicability perspective, a blow dryer and a comb may be used having an air temperature in the range of 45° C. to 90° C.
[0065] In the curling step v), it is preferred to use a curling iron or a hot comb, more preferably in the temperature range of 90°C to 210°C, in terms of curling efficiency and hair damage.
[0066] Two-step processing method The present invention relates to a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the steps of: vii) depositing an aqueous composition having a pH of less than 4 and comprising one or more compounds of a) as defined above viii) leaving the composition on the surface of the keratin fibers for 1 to 60 minutes ix) optionally rinsing and optionally drying the keratin fibers; x) treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C xi) applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising compounds b) to d) as defined above; xii) allowing the composition to stand for 1 to 60 minutes. xiii) optionally treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. The present invention also covers a method, including the steps of:
[0067] As a further optional step, the method further comprises: xv) optionally curling the keratin fibers with a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. xvi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers may also include
[0068] The two-step process is an alternative to the one-step process and provides equally favorable results.
[0069] Preferably, from a correction point of view, the time range for steps vii) and / or xii) is in the range of 5 to 45 minutes, more preferably in the range of 10 to 30 minutes.
[0070] In steps x) and / or xiii), from the perspective of straightening, it is preferred that a flat iron is used for straightening, the surface temperature of which is preferably in the range of 90° C. to 230° C., more preferably in the range of 130° C. to 210° C. Alternatively, from the perspective of consumer applicability, a blow dryer and a comb may be used, the air temperature of which is in the range of 45° C. to 90° C.
[0071] In the curling step xv), it is preferred to use a curling iron or a hot comb with a more preferred temperature range of 90° C. to 210° C. in terms of curling efficiency and hair damage.
[0072] Kit of parts The present invention is further directed to a kit-of-parts comprising the inventive composition as defined above and a high-temperature appliance. Suitable high-temperature appliances are blow dryers, hot combs, curling irons and / or straightening irons.
[0073] The present invention is further directed to a kit-of-parts comprising a first composition as defined above for step vii) and a second composition as defined above for step xi). Optionally, the kit may further comprise a high temperature tool. Suitable high temperature tools are blow dryers, hot combs, curling irons and / or straighteners.
[0074] The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention but not to limit it. EXAMPLES
[0075] Example 1 The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c), and d) to water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.
[0076] [Table 1]
[0077] Human hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 2 g per tress, 21 cm long) were purchased from Fischbach+Miller Haar, Laupheim, Germany. The tresses were shampooed with a commercial shampoo under the trade name Goldwell Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Then 1 g of each of the compositions from above was applied to the tresses, and the compositions were left on the tresses for 3 minutes. The tresses were then rinsed with lukewarm water for 1 minute and blow-dried. As a next step, the tresses were treated with 3 strokes with a flat iron at an iron surface temperature of 160°C. At this point, the straightening of the tresses was evaluated.
[0078] The tresses were then treated with one pass of a curling iron for 10 seconds per tress at an iron surface temperature of 180° C. At this point the curling of the tresses was assessed (see FIG. 1).
[0079] In a final step, the tresses were shampooed with the commercial shampoo described above, combed and blow-dried, at which point the straightening of the tresses was again evaluated (see Figure 2).
[0080] The following results were obtained, as shown in the table below and illustrated in Figures 1 and 2.
[0081] [Table 2]
[0082] The results from the above comparative test showed that the composition of the present invention provided the best restyling ability from straight to curly and back to straight hair. Neither of the two comparative compositions performed the same.
[0083] Example 2 The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c), and d), or their equivalents for comparison purposes, into water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.
[0084] [Table 3]
[0085] Human hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 2 g per tress, 21 cm long) were purchased from Fischbach+Miller Haar, Laupheim, Germany. The tresses were shampooed with a commercial shampoo under the trade name Goldwell Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Then 1 g of each of the compositions from above was applied to the tresses, and the compositions were left on the tresses for 3 minutes. The tresses were then rinsed with lukewarm water for 1 minute and blow-dried. The above application, rinsing, and blow-drying steps were repeated two more times, except that the last blow-drying step was replaced by air drying. As a next step, the tresses were brushed and blow-dried with hot air having a temperature of 60° C. At this point, the straightening of the tresses was evaluated (see FIG. 3).
[0086] The tresses were then treated with a curling iron at an iron surface temperature of 130° C., with one pass for 10 seconds each, at which point the curling of the tresses was evaluated (see FIG. 4).
[0087] The following results were obtained, as shown in the table below and illustrated in Figures 3 and 4.
[0088] [Table 4]
[0089] The results from the above comparative test showed that the composition of the present invention provided the best restyling ability from straight to curly hair. Neither of the two comparative compositions performed the same.
[0090] Example 3 The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c), and d), or their equivalents for comparison purposes, to water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.
[0091] [Table 5]
[0092] For the above compositions, the same experimental protocol as described for Example 2 was used.
[0093] The straightening of the hair bundles was evaluated (see Figure 5).
[0094] The tresses were then treated with one pass for 10 seconds each with a curling iron at an iron surface temperature of 130° C. At this point the curling of the tresses was evaluated (see FIG. 6).
[0095] The following results were obtained, as shown in the table below and illustrated in Figures 5 and 6.
[0096] [Table 6]
[0097] The results from the above comparative test showed that the composition of the present invention provided the best restyling ability from straight to curly hair. The comparative composition was particularly plagued by a frayed straightening with low degree of clumping and poorer curling performance.
[0098] The following examples are within the scope of the present invention.
[0099] Example 4 weight% Glyoxylic acid 6.0 Isostearyl glyceryl ether 2.0 Stearyl alcohol 5.0 Behentrimonium chloride 0.5 Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.5 Ceteareth-33 0.1 Glycerin 0.25 Amodimethicone 0.5 Xanthan gum 1.0 NaOH (Appropriate amount until pH 3.5) Water up to 100.0
[0100] Example 5 weight% Glyoxylic Acid 2.0 Isodecyl glyceryl ether 3.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0 Isopropyl myristate 2.0 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 3.0 Benzyl alcohol 0.5 Dimethicone 0.25 Polyquaternium 10 0.5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.5 NaOH (Appropriate amount until pH 2.5) Water up to 100.0
[0101] Example 6 weight% Glycolic Acid 10.0 Isostearyl glyceryl ether 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0 Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.75 Isopropyl palmitate 2.0 Dipropylene glycol 2.0 Panthenol 0.5 Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer 0.75 Dehydroxanthan gum 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 NaOH (Appropriate amount until pH 2.0) Water up to 100.0
Claims
1. An aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH of 1.5 to 2.5, a) Glyoxylic acid and / or its salt(s) and / or its hydrate(s) 0.1% by weight to 12% by weight b) Isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl glyceryl ether, hexyldecyl polyglyceryl ether, or a mixture thereof, 0.1% by weight or more and 12% by weight or less c) Cetearyl alcohol: 0.5% by weight or more and 15% by weight or less d) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or ceteareth: 0.2% by weight or more and 10% by mass or less The composition is an emulsion comprising:
2. 1. A method for reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising: i) applying the composition according to claim 1 to the surface of the keratin fibres and leaving it for a period of 1 to 60 minutes. ii) optionally rinsing said keratinous fibers and optionally drying said keratinous fibers. iii) treating the keratin fibers with a high temperature tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. iv) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers. v) curling the keratin fibers with a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C. vi) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers A method comprising:
3. 3. The method according to claim 2, characterized in that the straightening step(s) is / are carried out by using a straightening iron having a temperature in the range of 90°C to 230°C or by using a blow dryer and a comb in the temperature range of 45°C to 90°C.
4. A kit comprising the composition of claim 1 and a high temperature instrument.
Citation Information
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