Warp knitting and clothing

The warp knit fabric, utilizing false twisted crimped yarns and composite fibers, achieves a balance of windproofing, stretchability, and firmness, addressing the limitations of existing technologies.

JP7658813B2Active Publication Date: 2025-04-08TEJIN FIBERS LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2021103106
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-06-22
Publication Date
2025-04-08
Estimated Expiration
2041-06-22

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing warp knit fabrics struggle to balance windproofing, stretchability, and firmness simultaneously, with conventional high-density knitting fabrics being inadequate in stretchability and circular knitted fabrics lacking in windproofing and firmness.

Method used

A warp knit fabric composed of two or more types of false twisted crimped yarns with a torque of 30 T/m or less, and a composite fiber with two components joined in a side-by-side type or eccentric core sheath, achieving a balance of windproofing, stretchability, and firmness.

Benefits of technology

The resulting warp knit fabric exhibits excellent windproofing, stretchability, and firmness, with a stretchability of 20% or more in the longitudinal direction and 30% or more in the weft direction, and a stretch recovery rate of 90% or more in both directions.

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Abstract

To provide warp knitted fabric and clothing, which are excellent in wind-breaking property, stretching property, and tension and stiffness.SOLUTION: A warp knitted fabric is obtained by interknitting a composite yarn which is formed of two or more kinds of false-twisted crimped textured yarns and has torque of 30T / m or less and a composite fiber in which two components are joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath type.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric and clothing having excellent windproof properties, stretchability and firmness. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, high density knitted fabrics using false twisted crimped yarns have been proposed as windproof knitted fabrics (for example, Patent Document 1). However, such knitted fabrics are still not satisfactory in terms of stretchability.

[0003] On the other hand, as a knitted fabric having stretchability, a circular knitted fabric using false-twisted crimped yarn has been proposed (for example, Patent Document 2). However, such a circular knitted fabric is still not satisfactory in terms of wind resistance and firmness. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] JP 2002-363843 A [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2008 / 001920 Brochure Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] The present invention has been made in consideration of the above-mentioned background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a warp knitted fabric and clothing having excellent windproof properties, stretchability and firmness. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] The present inventors have conducted extensive research to achieve the above object and have completed the present invention.

[0007] Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a warp knitted fabric, which is formed by interweaving a composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of false twisted and crimped yarns and having a torque of 30 T / m or less with a composite fiber in which two components are joined in a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type, the composite fiber being a false twisted and crimped yarn having a total fineness of 22 to 84 dtex, the density of the warp knitted fabric being 60 to 110 courses / 2.54 cm and 45 to 80 wales / 2.54 cm, and the basis weight being 130 to 250 g / m. 2 The ventilation rate is within the range of 5 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 s, the stretchability measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 20% or more in the warp direction and 30% or more in the weft direction, and the stretch recovery rate measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 90% or more in both the warp and weft directions, In the composite fiber, the two components are any combination selected from the group consisting of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, and polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. "A warp knitted fabric characterized by the above-mentioned."

[0008] In this case, it is preferable that the composite yarn contains a false twisted and crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false twisted and crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction. In addition, it is preferable that the composite yarn has a total fineness in the range of 33 to 110 dtex. In addition, it is preferable that the composite yarn has a single fiber fineness in the range of 0.25 to 1.6 dtex. It is also preferable. In the above-mentioned composite fiber, the single fiber fineness is preferably within the range of 0.7 to 4.0 dtex.

[0009] The warp knitted fabric of the present invention Leave, It is preferable that the material is subjected to a water-absorbent treatment. The present invention also provides clothing made using the above warp knitted fabric. Effect of the Invention

[0010] According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a warp knitted fabric and clothing having excellent windproof properties, stretchability and firmness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0011] Hereinafter, the embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is formed by interweaving a composite yarn composed of two or more types of false twisted crimp textured yarns ("DTY") and having a torque of 30 T / m or less with a composite fiber in which two components are joined in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type. In this case, the smaller the torque in the composite yarn, the more preferable it is, and non-torque (0 T / m) is most preferable. In order to achieve non-torque in this way, it is preferable to compose the composite yarn with a false twisted crimp textured yarn having a torque in the S direction and a false twisted crimp textured yarn in the Z direction.

[0012] Here, false twist crimp textured yarns include so-called one heater false twist crimp textured yarns in which the false twist is set in the first heater region, and so-called second heater false twist crimp textured yarns in which the torque is reduced by introducing the yarn into the second heater region and subjecting it to a relaxation heat treatment. Depending on the direction of twisting, there are false twist crimp textured yarns with torque in the S direction and false twist crimp textured yarns with torque in the Z direction. These false twist crimp textured yarns can be used in the present invention.

[0013] The conditions for the false twist crimp processing are not limited, but the stretch ratio during the false twist crimp processing is preferably in the range of 0.8 to 1.5. The number of false twists is (T / m)=(32500 / (D) 1 / 2 In the formula D × α, α is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 1.5 (more preferably 0.8 to 1.2), where D is the total yarn fineness (dtex). As the twisting device to be used, a disk-type or belt-type friction twisting device is suitable as it is easy to thread the yarn and causes little yarn breakage, but a pin-type twisting device may also be used.

[0014] The fibers that form the false twisted crimped yarn A and / or the false twisted crimped yarn B may be polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, nylon fibers, rayon fibers, acetate fibers, and even natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and silk, or composites of these.

[0015] The polyester forming the polyester fiber is preferably a polyester having terephthalic acid as the main acid component and at least one selected from the group consisting of alkylene glycols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, i.e., ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol as the main glycol component. Among these, polyesters having ethylene glycol as the main glycol component (polyethylene terephthalate) or polyesters having trimethylene glycol as the main glycol component (polytrimethylene terephthalate) are particularly preferred.

[0016] The polyester may contain a small amount (usually 30 mol % or less) of a copolymer component as required. In this case, examples of the difunctional carboxylic acid other than terephthalic acid used include aromatic, aliphatic, and alicyclic difunctional carboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, β-hydroxyethoxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,4-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid. Examples of the diol compound other than the glycol include aliphatic, alicyclic, and aromatic diol compounds such as cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol S, and polyoxyalkylene glycol.

[0017] The polyester may be synthesized by any method. For example, in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, it may be produced by a first-stage reaction in which terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol are directly esterified, or a lower alkyl ester of terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate is transesterified with ethylene glycol, or terephthalic acid is reacted with ethylene oxide to produce a glycol ester of terephthalic acid and / or a low polymer thereof, and a second-stage reaction in which the reaction product of the first stage is heated under reduced pressure to a desired degree of polymerization and polycondensed. The polyester may be a polyester that has been material recycled or chemically recycled, or a polyester obtained by using a catalyst containing a specific phosphorus compound and a titanium compound, as described in JP-A-2004-270097 and JP-A-2004-211268. Furthermore, it may be a biodegradable polyester such as polylactic acid or stereocomplex polylactic acid.

[0018] Furthermore, if the polyester contains a matting agent (titanium dioxide) in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more (preferably 0.2 to 4.0% by weight) based on the weight of the polyester, the transparency-proof property of the warp knitted fabric is improved, which is preferable.

[0019] Furthermore, the polyester may contain, as necessary, one or more of an ultraviolet absorber, a micropore-forming agent (an organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a color inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), a fluorescent brightener, a color pigment, an antistatic agent (a sulfonic acid metal salt), a moisture absorbent (a polyoxyalkylene glycol), an antibacterial agent, and other inorganic particles.

[0020] Furthermore, if false twisted crimp textured yarn A having torque in the S direction and false twisted crimp textured yarn B having torque in the Z direction differ from each other in the components constituting the fibers, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber, or the single fiber fineness, the fabric will have a novel appearance, which is preferable.

[0021] Here, "different components" includes not only combinations of different polymers, but also combinations of the same polymers with different third components, additives, intrinsic viscosities, etc. Examples include combinations of nylon and polyester, cationic dyeable polyester and cationic non-dyeable polyester, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, and polyesters with different titanium oxide contents (for example, bright polyester and semi-dull polyester, bright polyester and full-dull polyester, semi-dull polyester and full-dull polyester, etc.).

[0022] In the composite yarn, the total fineness is preferably within the range of 33 to 110 dtex. The single fiber fineness is preferably within the range of 0.25 to 1.6 dtex. Examples of the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber include a round cross section, an elliptical cross section, a triangle, a square, a cross, a flat, a flat with a waist, an H-shape, a W-shape, and the like. The crimp rate of the composite yarn is preferably 2% or more (more preferably 10 to 60%). If the crimp rate is less than 2%, the stretchability may decrease.

[0023] The method for producing the composite yarn is not particularly limited. For example, a false twisted and crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false twisted and crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction may be aligned and air-mixed by air processing (interlace processing or Taslan (registered trademark) processing), or composite false twisting or doubling may be performed. The air-mixed method is particularly preferred.

[0024] In this case, the composite yarn is preferably an interlaced yarn that has been subjected to an interlace process with the number of interlaces being 1 to 150 / m. On the other hand, the composite fiber is a composite fiber in which two components are bonded in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath configuration. Such composite fibers develop a coil-like crimp when heated, and have stretchability.

[0025] Here, the composite fiber is preferably a composite fiber made of two components, at least one of which is polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or polyethylene terephthalate. Here, the two components may be a combination of different polymers or a combination of the same type of polymer. Furthermore, the combination may be a combination of the same type of polymer but with a third component, additive, intrinsic viscosity, etc. Specifically, examples of combinations include polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, and polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate.

[0026] Here, polytrimethylene terephthalate refers to a fiber made of polyester containing trimethylene terephthalate units as the main repeating units, and refers to fibers containing trimethylene terephthalate units in an amount of 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, and particularly preferably 90 mol% or more. Accordingly, it contains polytrimethylene terephthalate in which the total amount of other acid components and / or glycol components as the third component is contained in the range of 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and particularly preferably 10 mol% or less.

[0027] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by condensing terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under suitable reaction conditions.

[0028] Examples of the third component to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.), aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane glycol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatic groups (1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethoxy)benzene, etc.), and aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (p-oxybenzoic acid, etc.).

[0029] The polyethylene terephthalate may be a copolymer of three components. It may also be a material recycled or chemically recycled polyethylene terephthalate. Furthermore, it may be a polyethylene terephthalate obtained by using a catalyst containing a specific phosphorus compound and a titanium compound, as described in JP-A-2004-270097 and JP-A-2004-211268.

[0030] The polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, etc. may contain one or more of a micropore-forming agent, a cationic dye dyeable agent, a coloring inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a fluorescent whitening agent, a matting agent, a colorant, a moisture absorbent, and inorganic fine particles.

[0031] In the above-mentioned composite fiber, the total fineness is preferably within the range of 22 to 84 dtex, and the single fiber fineness is preferably within the range of 0.7 to 4.0 dtex. Examples of the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber include a round cross section, an elliptical cross section, a triangular cross section, a square cross section, a cross section, a flattened flattened section, an H-shaped cross section, and a W-shaped cross section.

[0032] The above-mentioned composite fiber can be produced by, for example, the methods described in JP-A-2009-46800, JP-A-2007-186844, etc. Furthermore, the composite fiber may be raw silk (multifilament that has not been subjected to false twist crimping), but false twist crimped yarn (multifilament that has been subjected to false twist crimping) is preferred because it further improves the stretchability of the warp knitted fabric.

[0033] The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is formed by interweaving the composite yarn and the composite fiber. For example, it is preferable to use two reeds, supply the composite yarn to one reed and supply the composite fiber to the other reed to knit a two-layered warp knitted fabric. The warp knitted fabric may be made of only the composite yarn and the composite fiber, or may further include other fibers. In this case, examples of the knitting structure of the warp knitted fabric include half and back half.

[0034] It is also preferable to dye the warp knitted fabric. In this case, the temperature of the dyeing process is preferably 100 to 140°C (more preferably 110 to 135°C), and the time for keeping the top temperature is preferably within a range of 5 to 40 minutes. It is preferable to subject the dyed knitted fabric to a final dry heat set. In this case, the temperature of the final dry heat set is preferably 120 to 200°C (more preferably 140 to 180°C), and the time is preferably within a range of 1 to 3 minutes.

[0035] The thermal history of the dyeing process causes the composite fiber to develop latent crimp and become coiled, imparting excellent stretchability to the warp knitted fabric.

[0036] In addition, the fabric of the present invention is preferably subjected to water absorption processing (addition of a hydrophilizing agent). By subjecting the fabric to water absorption processing, water absorption (sweat absorption) is improved. As such a water absorption processing, for example, a hydrophilizing agent (water absorption processing agent) such as polyethylene glycol diacrylate or its derivative, or polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer is attached to the fabric in an amount of 0.25 to 0.50% by weight based on the weight of the fabric. As a method of water absorption processing, for example, a bath processing method in which a hydrophilizing agent is mixed into the dye solution during dye processing, a method in which the fabric is dipped in a water absorption processing solution and squeezed with a mangle before the final dry heat set, a processing method by coating such as a gravure coating method or a screen printing method, etc. are exemplified.

[0037] Furthermore, various types of processing may be additionally applied, such as conventional nap-raising processing, ultraviolet shielding, or processing to impart functions such as antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, phosphorescent agents, retroreflective agents, negative ion generating agents, and water repellents.

[0038] In the warp knitted fabric thus obtained, the density of the warp knitted fabric is preferably 60 courses / 2.54 cm or more (more preferably 60 to 110 courses / 2.54 cm) and 45 wales / 2.54 cm or more (more preferably 45 to 80 wales / 2.54 cm) in terms of windproofness. In addition, in order to provide both comfortable wear, windproofness, and firmness, the basis weight is preferably 130 to 250 g / m 2 In terms of wind resistance, it is preferable that the air permeability is within the range of 50 cm. 3 / cm 2 s or less (preferably 5 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 ·s). It is preferable that the stretchability measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 20% or more in the warp direction and 30% or more in the weft direction, and the stretchability recovery rate measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 90% or more in both the warp direction and the weft direction. It is preferable that the snagging resistance is grade 3 or higher when tested for 5 hours using a Kananoko according to JIS L 1058-1995 D3 method.

[0039] Since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, it has excellent windproof properties, stretchability, firmness, and snagging resistance, and is particularly suitable for use as clothing. This includes knit pants, fashion clothing, uniforms, etc. EXAMPLES

[0040] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The physical properties in the examples were measured by the following methods.

[0041] (1) Interlace degree The intertwined yarn is taken to a length of 1 m under a load of 8.82 mN x the indicated tex (0.1 g / de), and after removing the load, the number of knots after 24 hours of relaxation at room temperature is read and expressed in units per meter.

[0042] (2) Crimp rate The test yarn is wound around a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125 m to prepare a skein with a dry fineness of 3333 dtex. The skein is hung on a hanging nail of a scale plate, and an initial load of 6 g is applied to the lower part of the skein, and the length L0 of the skein is measured when a load of 600 g is further applied. Then, the load is immediately removed from the skein, the skein is removed from the hanging nail of the scale plate, and the skein is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to cause crimping. The skein after the boiling water treatment is removed from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein is absorbed and removed with filter paper, and the skein is air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. The air-dried skein is hung on a hanging nail of a scale plate, and a load of 600 g is applied to the lower part of the skein, and the length L1a of the skein is measured after 1 minute, and then the load is removed from the skein, and the length L2a of the skein is measured after 1 minute. The crimp percentage (CP) of the test filament yarn is calculated by the following formula. CP(%)=((L1a-L2a) / L0)×100

[0043] (3) Anti-snagging properties Test for 5 hours using Kananoko according to JIS L 1058-1995 D3 method.

[0044] (4) Weight Measured according to JIS L1018-1998 6.4.

[0045] (5) Stretchability Stretchability (%) was measured according to ISO20932-1:2018.

[0046] (6) Stretch recovery rate Stretch recovery rate (%) was measured according to ISO20932-1:2018.

[0047] (7) Breathability Air permeability (cm) according to JIS L1096-2010 8.26.1 A method (Fragile method) 3 / cm 2 The number of samples was five, and the average was calculated.

[0048] (8) Firmness The testers rated the product on a three-point scale: excellent firmness, normal, and poor firmness.

[0049] [Example 1] Cationic dye-resistant polyethylene terephthalate (matting agent content: 0.3% by weight, semi-dull (SD)) was melt-spun at 280°C using a conventional spinning apparatus, taken up at a speed of 2800 m / min, and wound up without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyester yarn (cross-sectional shape of single fiber: round cross-section, POY).

[0050] Next, the polyester yarn was subjected to simultaneous drawing and false twisting and crimping processing under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T / m (S direction), a heater temperature of 180°C, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min. Thus, false twisted crimped yarn A having a total fineness of 33 dtex / 36 strands was obtained. On the other hand, the above polyester yarn was subjected to simultaneous draw-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T / m (Z direction), a heater temperature of 180°C, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min, to obtain false twist crimp processed yarn B having a total fineness of 33 dtex / 36 strands.

[0051] Next, the false twisted crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction were combined and subjected to an air entanglement process to obtain a composite yarn (total fineness 66 dtex / 72 strands, crimp rate 35%, torque 30 T / m or less). At this time, the air entanglement process was an interlace process using an interlace nozzle, and entanglement was imparted at 50 pcs / m. On the other hand, a false twist crimp textured yarn was obtained by a known method, which was made of a composite fiber in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) component and a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) component were bonded side-by-side, with a total fineness of 56 dtex / 36 strands.

[0052] Next, using a 28-gauge warp knitting machine, the composite yarn and the composite fiber were supplied to two reeds, respectively, to knit a warp knitted fabric having a back half structure. The warp knitted fabric was then dyed with a disperse dye at 130°C for 15 minutes. A hydrophilizing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was added to the warp knitted fabric at a ratio of 2 ml / l of the dye solution during dyeing, by performing a same-bath treatment. The warp knitted fabric was then subjected to a final dry heat set at 160°C for 1 minute. The obtained warp knitted fabric was excellent in wind resistance, stretchability, firmness, and snagging resistance. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0053] [Example 2] Cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (matting agent content 0.3% by weight, semi-dull (SD)) was melt spun at 280°C using a normal spinning device, taken up at a speed of 2800 m / min, and wound up without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyester yarn (single fiber cross-sectional shape: round cross-section, POY). The polyester yarn was then subjected to simultaneous draw-false-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, false twist number of 2500 T / m (S direction), heater temperature of 180°C, and yarn speed of 350 m / min to obtain false-twisted crimp-processed yarn A with a total fineness of 22 dtex / 24 strands.

[0054] On the other hand, the above polyester yarn was subjected to simultaneous draw-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T / m (Z direction), a heater temperature of 180°C, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min, to obtain false twist crimp processed yarn B having a total fineness of 22 dtex / 24 strands.

[0055] Next, the false twisted crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction were combined and subjected to an air entanglement process to obtain a composite yarn (total fineness 44 dtex / 48 yarns, crimp rate 28%, torque 30 T / m or less). At this time, the air entanglement process was an interlace process using an interlace nozzle, and entanglement was imparted to 60 pieces / m. On the other hand, a false twist crimp textured yarn was obtained by a known method, which was made of a composite fiber in which a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) component and a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) component were bonded side-by-side, with a total fineness of 56 dtex / 36 strands.

[0056] Next, using a 36-gauge warp knitting machine, the composite yarn and the composite fiber were supplied to two reeds, respectively, to knit a warp knitted fabric having a back half structure. The warp knitted fabric was then dyed with a disperse dye at 130°C for 15 minutes. A hydrophilizing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was added to the warp knitted fabric at a ratio of 2 ml / l of the dye solution during dyeing, by performing a same-bath treatment. The warp knitted fabric was then subjected to a final dry heat set at 160°C for 1 minute. The obtained warp knitted fabric was excellent in wind resistance, stretchability, firmness, and snagging resistance. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0057] [Example 3] Cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (matting agent content 0.3% by weight, semi-dull (SD)) was melt spun at 280°C using a normal spinning device, taken up at a speed of 2800 m / min, and wound up without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyester yarn (single fiber cross-sectional shape: round cross-section, POY). The polyester yarn was then subjected to simultaneous draw-false-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, false twist number of 2500 T / m (S direction), heater temperature of 180°C, and yarn speed of 350 m / min to obtain false-twisted crimp-processed yarn A with a total fineness of 22 dtex / 72 strands.

[0058] On the other hand, the above polyester yarn was subjected to simultaneous draw-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T / m (Z direction), a heater temperature of 180°C, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min, to obtain false twist crimp processed yarn B having a total fineness of 22 dtex / 72 strands.

[0059] Next, the false twisted and crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and the false twisted and crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction were combined and subjected to an air entanglement process to obtain a composite yarn (total fineness 44 dtex / 144 yarns, crimp rate 18%, torque 30 T / m or less). At this time, the air entanglement process was an interlace process using an interlace nozzle, and entanglement of 68 yarns / m was imparted. On the other hand, a false twist crimp textured yarn was obtained by a known method, which was made of a composite fiber in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) component and a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) component were bonded side-by-side, with a total fineness of 33 dtex / 24 strands.

[0060] Next, using a 36-gauge warp knitting machine, the composite yarn and the composite fiber were supplied to two reeds, respectively, to knit a warp knitted fabric having a back half structure. The warp knitted fabric was then dyed with a disperse dye at 130°C for 15 minutes. A hydrophilizing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was added to the warp knitted fabric at a ratio of 2 ml / l of the dye solution during dyeing, by performing a same-bath treatment. The warp knitted fabric was then subjected to a final dry heat set at 160°C for 1 minute. The obtained warp knitted fabric was excellent in wind resistance, stretchability, firmness, and snagging resistance. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0061] [Example 4] The same procedure was followed as in Example 1, except that the composite fiber was changed to a non-crimped yarn (raw silk). The obtained warp knitted fabric had excellent windproof properties, stretchability, firmness, and anti-snagging properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0062] [Example 5] Cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (matting agent content 2.3% by weight, full dull (FD)) was melt spun at 280°C using a normal spinning device, taken up at a speed of 2800 m / min, and wound up without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyester yarn (single fiber cross-sectional shape: round cross-section, POY). The polyester yarn was then subjected to simultaneous draw-false-twist crimp processing under conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, false twist number of 2500 T / m (S direction), heater temperature of 180°C, and yarn speed of 350 m / min to obtain false-twisted crimp-processed yarn A with a total fineness of 33 dtex / 36 strands.

[0063] Separately, cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (matte agent content 0.3% by weight, semi-dull (SD)) was melt spun at 280°C using a normal spinning device, taken up at a speed of 2800 m / min, and wound up without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyester yarn (single fiber cross-sectional shape: round cross-section, POY). Next, the polyester yarn was used to stretch the yarn at a draw ratio of 1. Simultaneous draw-false-twist crimp processing was performed under conditions of 6 times, false twist number 2500 T / m (Z direction), heater temperature 180°C, and yarn speed 350 m / min to obtain false twist crimp processed yarn A with a total fineness of 33 dtex / 36 strands.

[0064] Next, the false twisted crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction were combined and subjected to an air entanglement process to obtain a composite yarn (total fineness 66 dtex / 72 strands, crimp rate 12%, torque 30 T / m or less). At this time, the air entanglement process was an interlace process using an interlace nozzle, and entanglement was imparted to 80 strands / m. On the other hand, a false twist crimp textured yarn was obtained by a known method, which was made of a composite fiber in which a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) component and a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) component were bonded side-by-side, with a total fineness of 56 dtex / 36 strands.

[0065] Next, using a 28-gauge warp knitting machine, the composite yarn and the composite fiber were supplied to two reeds, respectively, to knit a warp knitted fabric having a half structure. The warp knitted fabric was then dyed with a disperse dye at 130°C for 15 minutes. A hydrophilizing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was added to the warp knitted fabric at a ratio of 2 ml / l of the dye solution during dyeing, by performing a same-bath treatment. The warp knitted fabric was then subjected to a final dry heat set at 160°C for 1 minute. The obtained warp knitted fabric was excellent in wind resistance, stretchability, firmness, and snagging resistance. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0066] [Comparative Example 1] Using a 36-gauge warp knitting machine, 12 strands of semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate raw silk with a total fineness of 33 dtex and 72 strands of semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate false twisted crimped yarn with a total fineness of 56 dtex (torque of 31 T / m or more) were fed to each of two reeds to knit a warp knitted fabric with a half structure.

[0067] The warp knitted fabric was then dyed using a disperse dye at 130°C for 15 minutes. A hydrophilizing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was added to the warp knitted fabric at a ratio of 2 milliliters per liter of the dye solution during dyeing, by performing a same-bath treatment during the dyeing process. The warp knitted fabric was then subjected to a final dry heat set at 160°C for 1 minute. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0068] [Comparative Example 2] In Comparative Example 1, the same procedures as in Example 4 were used except that raw silk consisting of composite fibers in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) component and a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) component were bonded side-by-side, with a total fineness of 56 dtex / 36 strands, was used as the raw silk. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0069] [Comparative Example 3] The same procedure was followed as in Example 4, except that a polyester false twist crimped yarn (torque 31 T / m or more) with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 72 strands was used instead of the composite yarn. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0070] [Comparative Example 4] Comparative Example 1 was performed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the same composite yarn (total fineness 66 dtex / 72 strands, crimp rate 35%, torque 30 T / m or less) as in Example 1 was supplied to two reeds. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0071] [Table 1] [Industrial Applicability]

[0072] INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, warp knitted fabrics and clothing having excellent windproof properties, stretchability and firmness are provided, and the industrial value thereof is extremely great.

Claims

1. A warp knitted fabric, which is made by interweaving a composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of false twisted crimped yarns and having a torque of 30 T / m or less with a composite fiber in which two components are joined in a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type, The composite fiber is a false twisted crimped yarn having a total fineness of 22 to 84 dtex, The density of the warp knitted fabric is 60 to 110 courses / 2.54 cm and 45 to 80 wales / 2.54 cm; Weight is 130 to 250 g / m 2 The ventilation rate is within the range of 5 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 -s range, the stretchability measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 20% or more in the warp direction and 30% or more in the weft direction, and the stretch recovery rate measured according to ISO20932-1:2018 is 90% or more in both the warp and weft directions, A warp knitted fabric characterized in that the two components in the composite fiber are any combination selected from the group consisting of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, and polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate.

2. 2. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn comprises a false twisted and crimped yarn A having a torque in an S direction and a false twisted and crimped yarn B having a torque in a Z direction.

3. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composite yarn has a total fineness in the range of 33 to 110 dtex.

4. The warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composite yarn has a single fiber fineness in the range of 0.25 to 1.6 dtex.

5. The warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the conjugated fiber has a single fiber fineness in the range of 0.7 to 4.0 dtex.

6. The warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which has been subjected to a water absorption treatment.

7. Clothing made using a warp knitted fabric described in any one of claims 1 to 6.

Citation Information

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