Use of Nephelium lappaceum extract for increasing firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of various extracts of the plant Nephelium lappaceum for increasing the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of type I and / or type V collagen, and / or LOX-L, fibulin-5, emilin-1, and / or fibrillin-1 genes and / or proteins, and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61 in the skin and / or mucous membranes. Another subject of the present invention relates to the use of said extracts in cosmetic compositions containing at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Another subject of the present invention further relates to a cosmetic care process comprising the application of an extract according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing it for increasing the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of type I and / or type V collagen, fibrillin-1, and / or LOX-L, fibulin-5, emilin-1, and / or fibrillin-1 genes and / or proteins, and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61 in the skin and / or mucous membranes. A final subject of the present invention relates to an extract of N. lappaceum for its use alone or in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition in the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions involving loss of collagen protein and / or gene expression and / or pathological loss of firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, such as rosacea or telangiectasia. [Selection diagram] None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and dermatology, in particular to the treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes. Harness and / or relates to novel cosmetic and / or dermatological uses of extracts of the plant Nephelium lappaceum for increasing the elasticity of the skin. [Background technology]

[0002] Collagens are the main constituent proteins of the extracellular matrix (ECM) that are present in large quantities in vertebrate tissues. Collagens are part of a superfamily of 29 different elements, including fibrillar collagens. Type I collagen is the best known example of these, but type V collagen is also a fibrillar collagen. Type V collagen is found in the same tissues as type I collagen and is known to assist the assembly of heterogeneous fibrils composed of these two collagen types. They therefore ensure the maintenance of structure and give mechanical strength to the tissues. They are therefore essential for the formation of these tissues at the level of the dermis. Harness , which reduces the skin's Harness Contribute to.

[0003] During the inherent aging of tissues, especially the dermis and epidermis, the expression of collagen decreases, inducing laxity of these tissues, resulting in a loss of skin tone and Harness Various exogenous factors, including aggressive environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution or tobacco, also cause loss of tissue in the skin and / or mucous membranes. Harness Other intrinsic factors also cause the breakdown and loss of collagen fibers. Harness This can cause a decrease in the levels of cholesterol, especially hormonal fluctuations and changes in the tonicity of the skin and / or mucous membranes (sudden weight gain or loss).

[0004] Fibrillin-1 is also a protein synthesized by fibroblasts, which are part of the ECM of the dermis, and is involved in the formation of elastic fibers made of elastin.

[0005] Like collagen, the expression of this protein decreases during skin ageing and / or other intrinsic, especially hormonal, and extrinsic, especially environmental, factors, inducing relaxation of the elastic tissue.

[0006] Another protein is involved in the formation of elastic fibers, LOX-L (lysyl oxidase-like). This enzyme allows the cross-linking of tropoelastin, which is then deposited into microfibrils. Like collagen and fibrillin-1, its expression decreases over time in skin and mucous membranes.

[0007] Finally, one may mention the CYR61 (cysteine-rich angiogenic inducer 61) protein, which regulates a particular synthesis of the ECM: fibulin-5, a component of elastic fibres, or emilin-1, a glycoprotein of the ECM associated with other elastic fibres. The formation and correct positioning of elastic fibres depends on the expression level of the above proteins. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] These proteins, collagen I, collagen V, fibrillin-1, CYR61, emilin-1, fibulin-5 and LOX-L, are therefore preferred targets in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, where: Harness and / or loss of elasticity, alternative active ingredients are always needed. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] In a particularly surprising manner, the inventors have demonstrated that an extract of the plant Nephelium lappaceum enhances the expression of collagen genes and / or proteins, in particular of type I and / or type V, in the skin and / or mucous membranes, thereby promoting the development of collagen-based immune responses in the skin and / or mucous membranes. HarnessIt has been found that the compound has the property of increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucosa, not only by increasing the expression of the fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and emilin-1 genes and / or proteins.

[0010] The extract according to the invention is an extract of the Nephelium lappaceum plant. This tree, also known as rambutan, is found in Southeast Asia, especially in Malaysia and Indonesia. It is a tree that grows to a height of 10-20 meters and produces a large amount of fruit. The edible fruit is known for its organoleptic properties, and it contains high amounts of sugar, vitamin C and iron. A decoction of the roots or dried leaves has also been used to combat fevers.

[0011] The plant from which the extract according to the invention is prepared originates from Vietnam.

[0012] The extract according to the invention has the advantage that it is effective against several types of collagen: collagen type I and type V. This extract therefore improves the function of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of the collagen type I gene and / or protein. Harness It is possible to increase the expression of other ECM components such as collagen type V or to decrease CYR61 expression. Yet another advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it can increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of fibrillin-1, but also of LOX-L, fibulin-5 and emilin-1 genes and / or proteins. This extract therefore makes it possible to target several types of ECM proteins, thereby creating a complete cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

[0013] The extract according to the invention also has the advantage that it is an ingredient that can be easily formulated and easily produced on an industrial scale.The extract according to the invention is an active ingredient that is locally tolerated for the skin and mucous membranes and does not pose any allergy risk.

[0014] A commercially available body gel has been described that has a firming effect and contains 10 plant extracts, including N. lappaceum extract. Harness The active ingredient against is pepper extract, which contains capsaicin, especially Harness , anti-cellulite activity and slimming activity Harness No activity against is associated with N. lappaceum extracts.

[0015] Korean Patent Application Publication No. 20060007083 describes a cosmetic composition containing an extract of N. lappaceum, used as a skin whitening agent.

[0016] WO 2008 / 066370 describes the free radical scavenging activity of plant extracts prepared by extraction with various solvents, including ethanol. Similarly, JP 2002-145730 describes several properties, including moisturizing and antioxidant properties, of the seeds of the N. lappaceum plant.

[0017] Lourith et al. (2017, Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciencias, 89, 577-589) further described extracts of Litchi chinensis pericarp and N. lappaceum as having anti-collagenase activity. However, nowhere in this publication was it found that the skin Harness The use of N. lappaceum extracts to increase the expression of collagen type I or type V in particular is not described. Also, there is no mention of extracts of N. lappaceum leaves. In addition, the document mentions the preferential use of Ganoderma lucidum extracts in anti-aging cosmetic products instead of N. lappaceum extracts.

[0018] Finally, Korean Patent Application Publication No. 20090056521 describes an extract of N. lappaceum and Litchi chinensis in a skin cosmetic composition, which has an anti-wrinkle effect and allows the inhibition of collagen degradation by metalloproteinases (MMPs), especially MMP-1. However, the effect of using an extract of N. lappaceum, especially a leaf extract, to increase the expression of collagen type I or type V proteins and / or genes is not described in this prior art. Also, this patent application describes the use of this extract to improve the skin Harness Furthermore, it describes an effect of inhibiting proteinases that cause collagen degradation, but not specifically increasing the expression of type I or type V collagen. Therefore, according to the applicant's findings, Harness No document describes the use of extracts of the N. lappaceum plant to increase the elasticity or to increase the expression of types I and V collagen, fibulin-1, emilin-1, LOX-L and / or fibrillin, and / or to decrease the expression of CYR61. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0019] Thus, according to a first subject, the present invention relates to a method for treating the skin and / or mucous membranes Harness The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum for enhancing the appearance of

[0020] According to a second subject, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum for increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes. For the purposes of the present invention, in fact Harness A distinction is made between the effectiveness on the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes and the effectiveness on the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes. HarnessIt is closely related to the density of the extracellular matrix, particularly but not limited to collagen expression. Elasticity is related to the formation and assembly of elastic fibers involving fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and emilin-1 proteins.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use" is intended to mean non-therapeutic use, i.e. application to all or part of healthy, non-pathological areas of skin or mucous membranes. The expression "areas of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes" is intended to mean areas of skin and / or mucous membranes to which the extract according to the invention is applied, which are referred to by dermatologists as "non-pathological", i.e. free from infections, scars, skin diseases or disorders, such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or wounds or lesions and / or other skin diseases.

[0022] The extract according to the present invention comprises: Harness and / or may be applied to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face where increased elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, bust, neck, all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, the area around the lips, the area around the eyes, the "T" zone of the face. For the purposes of the present invention, skin includes the scalp.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "collagen" is intended to mean type I, III, IV, V, VI, VII, XII, XIII, XIV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XXIV and / or XXIX collagen present in the skin and / or mucous membranes. Preferably, according to the invention, the collagen is type I and / or type V collagen, even more preferably type I collagen.

[0024] Furthermore, the term "fibrillin" is intended to mean fibrillin-1, fibrillin-2 and / or fibrillin-3 present in the skin and / or mucous membranes, preferably fibrillin-1.

[0025] The N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable ingredient. The term "topically acceptable" is intended to mean an ingredient suitable for topical application, which is non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes, does not induce allergic reactions and is not chemically unstable. The extract according to the invention may be used orally or topically. Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is used topically. The term "topically" is intended to mean the direct topical application and / or spraying of the ingredient onto the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0026] The term "mucosa" is intended to mean the ocular, vaginal, urogenital, anal, nasal and / or oral, labial and / or gingival mucosa; preferably the labial and / or oral mucosa.

[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin and / or mucous membranes" Harness "Increases the amount of inflammatory cytokines in the skin and / or mucous membranes of at least 1%, preferably at least 3%, more advantageously at least 5%, in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention. Harness In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, it is an increase measured in vivo, preferably on human facial skin. Even more preferably, on this human facial skin. Harness The increase in is measured after application of a cream containing an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum, preferably present in an amount of 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract is present in an amount of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, it is an extract prepared in subcritical water under the conditions described in Example 1e).

[0028] In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to half of the face of a population of 30 women aged 55-65 years, compared to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream not containing an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum. HarnessMeasurements of the increase are taken after 28 and 56 days of daily application of the cream.

[0029] Harness The in vivo measurement of can be carried out according to conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular by measuring with a cutometer, Tonoderm™, DynaSKIN® in combination with dermaTOP, or with a device called SkinFibroMeter (Delfin). In one particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, by measuring the distribution of the volume of skin subjected to pressure deformation of the SkinFibroMeter, Harness to evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin.

[0030] The term "increasing the elasticity" of the skin and / or mucous membranes is also intended to mean an increase of at least 2%, advantageously at least 4%, more advantageously at least 6% of the elasticity measured in vivo in the presence of the extract according to the invention compared to the elasticity detected in the absence of the extract. In one preferred embodiment of the invention, this measurement is carried out on human facial skin. Even more preferably, the increase in the elasticity of the human facial skin is measured in the presence of a cream comprising an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum, advantageously present in an amount of 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract is present in an amount of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, this is an extract prepared in subcritical water under the conditions described in Example 1e).

[0031] In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to half the face of a population of 30 women aged 55 to 65 years and elasticity measurements are made after 28 and 56 days of daily application of the cream, compared to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream not containing an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum.

[0032] Elasticity measurements may be performed using a ballistometer, a corneometer or a cutometer. In one advantageous embodiment, elasticity measurements are measured by cutometry, a technique for measuring the mechanical strain of skin subjected to suction.

[0033] A method called fringe projection allows the measurement of wrinkles in vivo. Thus, in the context of the present invention, the term "reducing wrinkles" is intended to mean a reduction of fine lines in the presence of an extract according to the invention of at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 2% compared to the level of fine lines measured in the absence of the extract. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, this measurement is carried out on human facial skin. Even more preferably, the reduction of fine lines on human facial skin is measured in the presence of a cream containing an extract of N. lappaceum leaves, advantageously present in an amount of 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract is present in an amount of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, this is an extract prepared in subcritical water under the conditions described in Example 1e).

[0034] In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to half the face of a population of 30 women aged 55-65 years and measurements of fine lines are made after 28 and 56 days of daily application of the cream, compared to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream not containing an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum.

[0035] In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the N. lappaceum extract is not combined with an extract of the L. chinensis plant. In particular, the extract according to the invention is preferably not combined with an extract of the L. chinensis fruit.

[0036] Likewise, the extract according to the invention is preferably not combined with capsaicin (CAS number 404-86-4, molar mass 305.418 g / mol) or with plant extracts containing it, in particular with fruit extracts of Capsicum species which contain capsaicin.

[0037] The object of the present invention is therefore to improve the function of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of type I collagen, type V collagen, emilin-1, fibulin-5 and fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1 and / or LOX-L genes and / or proteins and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61. Harness and / or the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase elasticity.

[0038] In particular, the subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a method for the treatment of skin and / or mucous membrane disorders by increasing the expression of type I and / or type V collagen genes and / or proteins and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61. Harness Another particular subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum for increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of the emilin-1, fibulin-5, fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1 and / or LOX-L genes and / or proteins.

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term "increase in a gene" is intended to mean an increase in the mRNA encoding the protein of interest.

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increasing the expression of collagen genes and / or proteins" is intended to mean that the expression of collagen proteins and / or genes in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is increased by at least 4%, preferably by at least 20%, even more preferably by at least 50%, advantageously by at least 100% and very advantageously by at least 400% compared to the expression of collagen proteins and / or genes detected in the absence of the extract.

[0041] In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the expression of collagen is the expression of collagen type I and / or type V protein, more preferably collagen type I. Preferably, said expression is measured in human fibroblasts described as normal, i.e. non-pathological, more preferably in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention, advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or extract 1e).

[0042] Preferably, the expression of type I and / or type V collagen proteins is measured using immunohistochemical techniques, using anti-collagen antibodies under the conditions described in Example 2.

[0043] In one particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum is effective in improving the function of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of type I and / or type V, preferably type I, collagen genes and / or proteins, preferably the expression of proteins. Harness is used to increase

[0044] In an alternative embodiment of the present invention, an extract of the leaves of N. lappaceum is effective in preventing and treating the skin and / or mucous membranes by reducing the expression of the CYR61 gene and / or protein, preferably the expression of the protein. Harness is used to increase

[0045] The expression "reducing the expression of the CYR61 gene and / or protein" is intended to mean that the expression of the gene and / or protein in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is reduced by at least 4%, preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 30% compared to the expression level of the CYR61 protein and / or gene detected in the absence of the extract.

[0046] In one advantageous embodiment, the reduction is a reduction in CYR61 protein, advantageously measured in normal, i.e. non-pathological, human fibroblasts, more preferably measured in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention, very advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e) under the conditions described in Example 5.

[0047] In addition, the expression "increasing the expression of the fibrillin gene and / or protein" is intended to mean that the expression of the fibrillin protein and / or gene in the presence of the N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is increased by at least 30%, preferably at least 50%, more preferably at least 100%, advantageously at least 150% and very advantageously at least 200% compared to the expression level of the fibrillin protein and / or gene detected in the absence of the extract. In one advantageous embodiment, this is a question of increasing the expression of the fibrillin-1 protein, advantageously measured in normal, i.e. non-pathological human fibroblasts, more preferably measured in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract, advantageously measured in the presence of extract 1a) or extract 1e) under the conditions described in Example 4.

[0048] Therefore, according to the invention, an extract of N. lappaceum is used to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of fibrillin, advantageously the expression of fibrillin-1.

[0049] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, an N. lappaceum extract is used to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of the LOX-L gene and / or protein. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increasing the expression of the LOX-L gene and / or protein" is intended to mean that the expression of the LOX-L gene and / or protein in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is increased by at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, very preferably at least 15% compared to the expression level of the LOX-L protein and / or gene detected in the absence of the extract. In one advantageous embodiment, the increase is advantageously an increase in the expression of the LOX-L protein measured in normal, i.e. non-pathological, human fibroblasts, more preferably measured in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention, very advantageously measured in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e).

[0050] In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract increases the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of the fibulin-5 gene and / or protein. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increases the expression of the fibulin-5 gene and / or protein" is intended to mean that the expression of the fibulin-5 gene and / or protein in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is increased by at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, very preferably at least 15% compared to the expression level of the fibulin-5 protein and / or gene detected in the absence of the extract. In one advantageous embodiment, the increase is advantageously an increase in the expression of the fibulin-5 protein measured in normal, i.e. non-pathological, human fibroblasts, more preferably measured in the presence of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention, very advantageously measured in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e).

[0051] In yet another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract increases the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of the emilin-1 gene and / or protein. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increases the expression of the emilin-1 gene and / or protein" is intended to mean that the expression of the emilin-1 gene and / or protein in the presence of the N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is increased by at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, very preferably at least 15% compared to the expression level of the emilin-1 protein and / or gene detected in the absence of the extract. In one advantageous embodiment, the increase is advantageously an increase in the expression of the emilin-1 protein measured in normal, i.e. non-pathological, human fibroblasts, more preferably measured in the presence of the N. lappaceum extract according to the invention, very advantageously measured in the presence of the extract 1a) or 1e).

[0052] The subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum for increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and / or emilin-1 genes and / or proteins. In one advantageous embodiment of the present invention, an extract of the leaves and / or branches and / or bark and / or stems and / or seeds, preferably the leaves, of N. lappaceum is used to increase the expression of fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and / or emilin-1 genes and / or proteins, preferably the expression of the fibrillin-1 gene and / or protein, more preferably the expression of the fibrillin-1 protein, and thus increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0053] The extract may be all or part of the N. lappaceum plant selected from the bark, leaves, branches, stems, whole fruit, fruit pulp, seeds, pericarp, roots. Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is an extract of leaves, and / or seeds, and / or pulp, and / or branches. More preferably, the extract is an extract of leaves. The whole plant or plant part in question is preferably dried and / or crushed before extraction.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "flesh" is intended to mean the fruit without the skin and without the seeds. The term "peel" is intended to mean the fruit envelope, also called the shell. The term "bark" is also intended to mean the bark of the tree and / or the branches. Thus, the term "branch" is intended to mean the wood and the bark. The term "seed" is intended to mean the seed without the flesh.

[0055] The extract can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, selected from maceration, hot decoction, by grinding, including ultrasonic grinding, using a mixer, or else the extract can be obtained by extraction in water under subcritical conditions.Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration.In one particularly advantageous embodiment, the extraction is carried out in water under subcritical conditions.Advantageously, the extraction is not carried out under supercritical conditions (CO2).

[0056] The extraction may be carried out at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature ranging from 4° C. to 300° C., including a temperature of 20° C. In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 60° C. to 90° C., preferably 70° C. to 85° C., more preferably 80° C.

[0057] In one alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature between 4°C and 25°C, more preferably between 4°C and 20°C, and more advantageously at ambient temperature, i.e. 20°C.

[0058] In yet another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out in water under subcritical conditions at a temperature ranging from 100° C. to 374° C., advantageously from 120° C. to 250° C., more advantageously at 120° C. The extraction can be carried out at a single pre-determined temperature or at successively increasing temperatures. In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out successively at three increasing temperatures: 120° C., 140° C. and 160° C.

[0059] The term extraction under "subcritical conditions" is intended to mean extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature above 100° C. and pressure below 221 bar, where the water remains in a liquid state but has a lower viscosity and surface tension than at ambient temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

[0060] The extraction pressure is therefore advantageously between 150 bar and 250 bar, preferably between 200 and 221 bar in the pressure extraction autoclave.

[0061] The extraction can be carried out for 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably for 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably for 1 hour to 5 hours, and even more advantageously for 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction is carried out for 1 hour.

[0062] The extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent, advantageously water, alcohol, glycol, polyol, water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol mixtures 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w) (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, such as xylitol and / or propanediol), advantageously water as the sole solvent. Thus, in one particular embodiment, the extract is a leaf extract prepared in water as the sole solvent.

[0063] In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" is intended to mean an extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, and even more advantageously free of glycols, in particular free of alcohols, in particular containing only water.

[0064] In an alternative embodiment, the extract is obtained by extraction in a mixture of propanediol and water in respective proportions of (80, 20; w / w).

[0065] In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction may furthermore be carried out in the presence of a non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from lauryl glucoside sold under the name Plantacare® 1200UP by BASF or else caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP). The concentration by weight of the non-ionic surfactant may be between 0.5% and 5% by weight, advantageously between 0.5% and 1% by weight, more advantageously it is 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0066] The extract can be obtained by extracting at least a part of the N. lappaceum plant, either fresh material or solid matter, preferably solid matter, in an amount between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight (w / w) of the solvent / plant mixture. Preferably, the extract is obtained by extracting the solid matter of at least a part of the plant in an amount between 1% and 10% by weight, advantageously between 5% and 10% by weight, more advantageously 10% by weight, relative to the total weight (w / w) of the mixture consisting of the solvent, preferably water, and the plant. In one particular embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained from at least a part of the plant in an amount of 10% by weight, relative to the total weight (w / w) of the solvent / plant mixture, and then concentrated to 20%. Preferably, the part of the plant is then turned into a seed.

[0067] Thus, in one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by macerating the dried leaves of the N. lappaceum plant in water as the sole solvent in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the leaves and water under the conditions described in Example 1a) for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered. The extract obtained can optionally be dried and taken in powder form.

[0068] In another embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration from the dried leaves of the N. lappaceum plant in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the leaves and water under the conditions described in Example 1b) for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0069] In yet another embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by maceration from the dried branches of the N. lappaceum plant in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the branches and water under the conditions described in Example 1c) for 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature of 20° C. Advantageously, in this case, the extraction is carried out in the presence of caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP) at a concentration of 1% by weight. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0070] In a fourth embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by maceration from the dried leaves of N. lappaceum in an amount of 10% by weight in a propanediol / water mixture (80:20; v / v) under the conditions described in Example 1d) for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0071] In a fifth embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by subcritical water extraction of dried leaves of N. lappaceum in an amount of 10% by weight in a pressure extraction autoclave under conditions described in Example 1e) at a temperature of 250° C. and a pressure of 250 bar. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered. The extract obtained can be optionally dried.

[0072] In a sixth embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by maceration of the fruit pulp in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulp and water as the sole solvent under the conditions described in Example 1f) at a temperature of 80° C. for 1 hour. Alternatively, the extraction of the pulp can be carried out starting from an amount of 10% by weight of the pulp in a propanediol / water (80,20; v / v) mixture at a temperature of 80° C. for 1 hour. In yet another alternative embodiment, the extraction of the pulp can be carried out by extraction in water under subcritical conditions. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0073] In a seventh embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by maceration of the seeds in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the seeds and water as the sole solvent, under the conditions described in Example 1g) for 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. 20° C. Alternatively, the extraction of the seeds can be carried out starting from the seeds in an amount of 10% by weight in a propanediol / water (80,20; v / v) mixture at a temperature of 80° C. for 1 hour. In yet another alternative embodiment, the extraction of the seeds can be carried out by extraction in water under subcritical conditions. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0074] The extract obtained and used according to the invention may then be centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the soluble fraction, preferably the water-soluble fraction. Preferably, the resulting supernatant is then advantageously filtered, advantageously with a cut-off threshold of 0.45 μm. A further decolorization and / or deodorization step may be carried out on the extract at any stage of the extraction, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract may be decolorized with activated carbon.

[0075] The extract can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or by drying, for example by freeze drying or by spray drying in the presence of maltodextrin. The extract is then made into a powder form.

[0076] Thus, in one preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract obtained is spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin at a concentration of 20% to 90% by weight, preferably 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.

[0077] In one particular embodiment of the present invention, particularly for its use in dermatology, the N. lappaceum extract obtained is sterilized.

[0078] The extract can be used alone in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0079] If the extract is used alone in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, it is preferably dissolved and / or diluted in a solvent, in particular a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol, and / or butylene glycol, and / or hexylene glycol, and / or caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof, preferably an aqueous glycol mixture, more preferably an aqueous glycol mixture containing a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or dissolved in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing 0.1% to 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or dissolved in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing 0.01% to 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the N. lappaceum extract according to the present invention is dissolved comprises xanthan gum, in particular 0.01% to 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly 0.1% to 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

[0080] Advantageously, the solution in which the N. lappaceum extract according to the invention is dissolved comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.

[0081] In one alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract is dissolved in an aqueous solution comprising glycerin at a concentration of 50% to 85% by weight, advantageously 60% to 80% by weight, more advantageously 79% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient, biopropanediol at a concentration of 5% to 20% by weight, advantageously 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient, and water.

[0082] The extract may also be present in a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. The term "acceptable" is intended to mean a cosmetic excipient or excipients that do not induce an allergic reaction, are chemically stable and are non-irritating to the skin.

[0083] The subject of the present invention is therefore the provision of a method for the treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression of type I and / or type V collagen, preferably type I collagen, LOX-L, fibulin-5, emilin-1 and / or fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1, genes and / or proteins in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61. Harness and / or the use of an extract of the N. lappaceum plant according to the invention in a cosmetic composition for increasing elasticity.

[0084] The cosmetic composition comprising the N. lappaceum extract according to the present invention comprises Harness and / or may be applied preferably topically to all or parts of the body and / or face where increased elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, bust, neck, all or parts of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, the area around the lips, the area around the eyes, the "T" zone of the face.

[0085] In one embodiment of the present invention, the extract is present in an amount of 1×10 -4 % by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 1×10 -4 % by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 1×10 -3 It is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration of from 5% to 3% by weight.

[0086] The excipients may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffers, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, matting agents, gloss agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)) describes a variety of cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.

[0087] Advantageously, the excipients are selected from the group consisting of polyglycerols, esters, cellulose polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, saccharose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gum, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiable compounds, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, amine oxides, plant extracts, saccharose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine and parabens, more preferably steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycosyl stearate, glycer ... glyceryl stearate, isopropyl alcohol, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, in particular shower gels, milks, emulsions, micro- or nano-emulsions, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or hybrid or silicone-based, masks, serums, lotions, liquid soaps, dermatological sticks, ointments, foams, patches, anhydrous products, preferably liquids, pastes or solids, for example in the form of a makeup powder, pen or stick, in particular in the form of a lipstick. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cream or serum.

[0089] The compositions used according to the invention may also contain cosmetic active ingredients which provide a complementary or synergistic action, such as anti-aging active agents. Among these, mention may be made of active agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules or prevent their degradation, agents which stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, soothing agents, moisturizing agents or agents which otherwise act to regulate the size and / or opening of pores.

[0090] Among the anti-aging active agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular corn extracts (such extracts are sold in particular under the name Deliner® by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France) and palmitoyl pentapeptide sold under the trademark Matrixil® by the company Sederma; - agents that stimulate the formation of collagen fibres, such as the extract of Origanum majorana sold under the name Dermagenist™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, - agents that stimulate the expression of perlecan and dystroglycan in the extracellular matrix and / or epithelial basement membrane, such as the extract of Polygonum bistorta sold under the name Perlaura™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, - an agent protecting the extracellular matrix fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) from degradation and / or denaturation, in particular an extract of Hibiscus abelmoscus as described in patent application FR 0 654 316 filed in the name of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Linefactor™, and / or an agent stimulating fibroblast proliferation, for example a fermented soy extract containing a peptide known under the name Phytokine™ as sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and also described in patent application EP 1 119 344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), preferably a combination of these two extracts, - agents stimulating laminin synthesis, in particular extracts of biotechnologically modified malt (such extracts are sold in particular under the name Basaline® by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France), - agents that stimulate the expression and / or activity of hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2), such as plant extracts as described in patent application FR 2 893 252, in particular the aqueous extract of galanga (Alpinia galanga) and that sold under the name Hyalufix™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France; - agents stimulating the synthesis of lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL), such as Geophila cordifolia extract and the extracts described in patent application FR 2 855 968, in particular dill extract and those sold under the name Lys'lastine™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France; - agents that stimulate intracellular ATP synthesis, in particular extracts of the alga Laminaria digitata, - activators that stimulate glycosaminoglycan synthesis, e.g. dairy fermentation products, - collagen stimulating active agents, such as retinol and / or vitamin C, active agents that inhibit metalloproteinases (MMPs), such as, more particularly, MMP 1, 2, 3 and 9, such as, for example, retinoids and derivatives, oligo- and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the Argania spinosa extract sold under the name Arganyl™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, lycopene, isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol and apigenin; - swelling agents, in particular the hyaluronic acid-filled spheres (Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™) sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France; - agents for increasing the expression of LOX, such as the Cichorium intybus extract sold under the name LOX-AGE™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, - agents for increasing collagen deglycation and / or increasing the expression of collagen type I, such as the combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacinamide sold under the name CollRepair™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, - lumican and agents stimulating collagen synthesis, such as the synthetic acetyl Gln Asp Val His tetrapeptide sold under the name Dermican™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and described in patent application WO 2005 / 120554, - agents for protecting and stimulating elastin and collagen, such as the extract of the leaves of Manilkara multinervis sold under the name Elestan™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and the extract of the roots of Eperua falcata sold under the name Eperuline™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France; - antipigmentation agents which act in particular by inhibiting melanin synthesis, such as the synergistic complex of Pisum sativum extract and sucrose dilaurate sold under the name Actiwhite™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France or hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid sold under the name Radianskin™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, - Skin Harness and agents stimulating elasticity, such as the extract of Khaya senegalensis sold by the Applicant under the name Collalift® 18. Examples include:

[0091] Agents stimulating keratinocyte proliferation preferably used in the compositions according to the invention include in particular retinoids, such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate, and phloroglucinol. Agents stimulating keratinocyte differentiation include, for example, minerals, such as calcium, and lignans, such as secoisolariciresinol, as well as Achillea millefollium extract, sold under the name Neurobiox™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

[0092] Among the soothing agents preferably used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salicylates, in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, unsaturated omega-3 oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and betamethasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, in particular those described in patent application FR 2 847 267, in particular the extract of the root of Pueraria lobata sold under the name Inhipase® by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, and Theobroma cacao extract.

[0093] Among the agents acting on the regulation of the pore size and / or their opening and / or on the sebum production, mention may be made by way of example of the Cichorium intybus extract sold under the name LOX-AGE™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France or the synthetic sarcosine sold under the name Mat XS™ Clinical and / or Orthosiphon staminaeus, described in patent application WO 2010 / 063674 in the name of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and sold under the name MAT XS™ Bright.

[0094] The moisturizing agent preferably used in the composition according to the invention may include a combination of pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate, such as that sold under the name PatcH2O™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

[0095] Another subject of the invention is the treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes. Harnessand / or a cosmetic care method comprising applying the extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it topically or orally, preferably topically, to increase elasticity.

[0096] The cosmetic care method according to the invention therefore provides a method for treating the skin and / or mucous membranes. Harness In order to increase the expression of type I and / or type V collagen, preferably type I collagen, genes and / or proteins, and / or to decrease the expression of CYR61 in the skin and / or mucosa.

[0097] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical or oral application, preferably the topical application, of an N. lappaceum extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it, for increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the expression, advantageously the expression of the fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and / or emilin-1, more preferably fibrillin-1, genes and / or proteins, in the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0098] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises: Harness and / or topically applying an extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising same to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face where increased elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, bust, neck, all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, the area around the lips, the area around the eyes, the "T" zone of the face.

[0099] Finally, another subject of the present invention is a method for treating conditions such as a loss of collagen, preferably type I collagen protein and / or gene expression and / or skin and / or mucosal disorders, such as rosacea or telangiectasia. HarnessThe present invention relates to an extract of N. lappaceum for its use topically or orally, preferably topically, alone or in a pharmaceutical composition comprising it, preferably a dermatological composition, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions involving pathological loss of skin.

[0100] Finally, another subject of the invention relates to an extract of N. lappaceum for its use, topically or orally, preferably topically, alone or in a pharmaceutical composition comprising it, preferably a dermatological composition, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions involving loss of expression of fibrillin, preferably type I fibrillin, protein and / or gene and / or pathological loss of elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, such as photoelastosis, skin laxity disorders and / or stretch marks.

[0101] In one embodiment of the present invention, the extract is present in an amount of 1×10 -4 % by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 1×10 -4 % by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 1×10 -3 The composition may be included in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition further comprising at least one dermatologically or pharma- ceutical acceptable excipient at a concentration of from 2% to 3% by weight.

[0102] Examples are given below with reference to the description of the present invention. These examples are presented for illustrative purposes and do not limit the scope of the present invention in any way. Each of the examples has a general scope. The examples are an integral part of the present invention, and the features believed to be novel from the prior art from the description as a whole including the examples are an integral part of the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0103] Example 1: Preparation of various N. lappaceum extracts according to the invention Example 1a) An extract was obtained by macerating the dried leaves of N. lappaceum plants in water as the sole solvent in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the leaves and water as the sole solvent for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered. The extract may then be subsequently dried.

[0104] Example 1b) An extract was obtained by maceration starting from the leaves of N. lappaceum plants in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the dried leaves and water as the sole solvent, for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract was centrifuged and then filtered.

[0105] Example 1c) An extract was obtained by maceration starting from dried branches of the N. lappaceum plant in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the branches and water as the sole solvent, in the presence of caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP) at a concentration of 1% by weight, for 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature of 20° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0106] The extracts obtained in Examples 1a) to 1c) were then concentrated by solvent evaporation and dried by spray drying in the presence of maltodextrin. These extracts are in powder form.

[0107] Example 1d) Extraction was carried out by maceration starting from dried leaves of N. lappaceum in an amount of 10% by weight in a propanediol / water mixture (80,20; w / w) for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0108] Example 1e) Extraction was carried out starting from dried leaves of N. lappaceum in an amount of 10% by weight in water under subcritical conditions in a pressure extraction autoclave at a pressure of 250 bar at a temperature of 250° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0109] Example 1f) Extraction was carried out by maceration in water as the sole solvent starting from the fruit pulp of N. lappaceum in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulp and water, for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0110] Example 1g) Extraction was carried out by macerating the seeds in water as the sole solvent in an amount of 10% by weight, based on the total weight of seeds and water, for 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. 20° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0111] Example 1h) Extraction was carried out by maceration starting from dried branches of N. lappaceum plants in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the branches and water as the sole solvent, for 1 hour at a temperature of 80° C. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0112] Example 2: Increased collagen type I expression in the presence of various N. lappaceum extracts according to the invention Procedure: "Normal" human fibroblasts, i.e. fibroblasts not exhibiting pathological conditions, from a 34-year-old healthy female donor were cultured in synthetic medium (FGM) in the presence of various N. lappaceum extracts at two different final concentrations for 48 hours, then the cell medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control (control). The resulting cell layer was dissolved with an ammonium hydroxide solution.

[0113] Type I collagen was analyzed using the lysates obtained with an anti-collagen I antibody used at 500 ng / ml in buffer solution (PBS). After 60 min, the second antibody used at 40 ng / ml was applied for 60 min. After washing, the exposure solution was added and the fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). The fluorescence results were standardized with respect to the fluorescence obtained in a similar cell medium without N. lappaceum extract (control) and related to the amount of DNA obtained under each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean value of six assays (n=6) (SD: standard deviation).

[0114] [Table 1]

[0115] Example 3) Increased expression of type V collagen in the presence of various N. lappaceum extracts Procedure: "Normal" human fibroblasts, i.e. fibroblasts not showing any pathological conditions, from a healthy female donor aged 34 years were cultured in synthetic medium (FGM) in the presence of various N. lappaceum extracts at different final concentrations for 48 hours, then the cell medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control (control). The resulting cell layer was dissolved with an ammonium hydroxide solution, then collagen V was analyzed with an anti-collagen V antibody diluted to 1 / 4000 in a buffer solution (PBS). After 60 minutes, a second antibody diluted to 1 / 25000 was applied for 60 minutes. After washing, the exposure solution was added and the fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). The fluorescence results were standardized with respect to the fluorescence obtained with a similar cell medium without N. lappaceum extract (control) and related to the amount of DNA obtained under each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean value of three assays (n=3) (SD: standard deviation).

[0116] [Table 2]

[0117] Example 4: Increased fibrillin-1 expression in the presence of various N. lappaceum extracts Procedure: "Normal" human fibroblasts, i.e. fibroblasts not showing any pathological conditions, from a 34-year-old healthy female donor were cultured in synthetic medium (FGM) in the presence of two different final concentrations of N. lappaceum extract for 48 h, then the cell medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of extract was used as a control (control). Subsequently, cells were harvested and then lysed in a specific lysis buffer to achieve immunolocalization (Western blot). Protein concentration was determined by the BCA method. Proteins were identified by capillary electrophoresis (ProteinSimple, USA) using an anti-fibrillin primary antibody and immunolocalized using a peroxidase-linked conjugated secondary antibody. Results were quantified using Compass software, version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple).

[0118] [Table 3]

[0119] Example 5: Reduction of CYR61 protein expression in the presence of N. lappaceum extract Procedure: "Normal" human fibroblasts, i.e. fibroblasts not showing any pathological conditions, from a 34 year old healthy female donor were cultured in synthetic medium (FGM) in the presence of different final concentrations of N. lappaceum extract for 48 hours, then the cell culture medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control (control). The supernatant was then collected for analysis. Protein concentration was determined by BCA assay (bicinchoninic acid assay). Protein expression was measured by Western blot (n=4) (SallySue®, ProteinSimple®). The CYR61 protein of interest was detected by capillary electrophoresis (antibody AbCam (ab24448) diluted to 1 / 50) and then visualized with a horseradish peroxidase-conjugated secondary antibody and a chemiluminescent substrate. The chemiluminescent signal was then detected and quantified (Compass® version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple®)).

[0120] result: Results are expressed as a percentage relative to the expression level of CYR61 protein in the supernatants of untreated fibroblasts (control).

[0121] [Table 4]

[0122] Example 6: Cosmetic ingredient examples The amounts listed are weight percentages based on the total weight of the cosmetic ingredients.

[0123] Example 6a) N. lappaceum Extract Examples 1a)-1e) 1-20% (w / w) Maltodextrin 80~99%(w / w)

[0124] Example 6b) N. lappaceum Extract Examples 1a)-1e) 1% Glycerin 79% Biopropanediol 10% water 10%

[0125] Example 7: Cosmetic composition examples The following compositions are prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, particularly with regard to the various phases that are mixed together.

[0126] * The cosmetic ingredients are prepared according to Example 6 above. The amounts listed are weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

[0127] 7a) Cosmetic ingredients * 0.2~0.3 EDTA 0.05 Steareth-2 2.00 Steareth-21 2.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 Propylheptyl Caprylate 15.00 Sodium hydroxide (30% in solution) 0.10 Mixture of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, butylene glycol, and sorbic acid (Germazide™ PBS) 1.25 Mixture of Polyacrylate-X, Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60 (Sepigel™ SMS 60) 4.00 Water (up to 100 ml)

[0128] 7b) Cosmetic ingredients * 0.2~0.3 EDTA 0.05 Steareth-2 2.00 Steareth-21 2.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 Propylheptyl Caprylate 15.00 Sodium hydroxide (30% in solution) 0.10 Mixture of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, butylene glycol, and sorbic acid (Germazide™ PBS) 1.25 Mixture of Polyacrylate-X, Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60 (Sepigel™ SMS 60) 4.00 Water (up to 100 ml)

[0129] 7c) To prepare the composition according to the invention, the following different phases A, B, C and D are mixed together using methods known to those skilled in the art, the proportions being expressed in %.

[0130] Phase A Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 4.00 Pentaerythrityl Distearate 1.50 Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.00 Propylheptyl Caprylate 5.00 Cococaprylate 2.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00 Dimethicone 1.00

[0131] Phase B Water 64.43 Propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben 1.00 Glycerin 1.57 Xanthan gum 0.20 Butylene Glycol 2.00 Sodium hydroxide, water 0.15

[0132] Phase C Carbomer 0.15 water 10

[0133] Phase D N. lappaceum extract obtained according to example 6a) 1.00

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for topical use comprising an extract of Nephelium lappaceum for increasing firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, said extract being an extract of leaves, said extract being present in an amount of 1×10 based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. －４ The cosmetic composition,

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 for increasing the elasticity of the skin.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 for increasing the firmness of the skin.

4. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 3 for increasing the expression of type I and / or type V collagen genes and / or proteins.

5. A cosmetic composition described in claim 1 or 2 for increasing the expression of the fibrillin-1 gene and / or protein.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one acceptable cosmetic excipient.

Images