Composition suitable for eyelashes

By using film-forming agents such as vinyl ester (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids in mascara with specific proportions, combined with oil and wax, the problem that existing mascara is difficult to provide long-term beauty effects and is prone to bleeding, achieving long-term volume enhancement and easy removal effects.

JP7674079B2Active Publication Date: 2025-05-09LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2020038825
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2020-03-06
Publication Date
2025-05-09
Estimated Expiration
2040-03-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing mascara is difficult to remove easily while providing long-term beauty effects, and water-based mascara is prone to breakdown of sweat and fails while anhydrous-based mascara is difficult to remove and may cause eye bleeding.

Method used

Mascara is made of film forming agents composed of vinyl ester (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids, combined with oil and wax. The composition ratio is 0.4% to 3.0%, the second film forming agent is 0.2% to 2.0%, the oil is 20% to 80%, and the wax is 1% to 30%.

Benefits of technology

Long-term volume enhancement effect is achieved while avoiding eye bleeding, and the mascara can be easily removed with water or cleaning oil.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide a composition for keratin fibers such as eyelashes, which generates no bleeding and can exhibit long lasting cosmetic effect, for example, long lasting volume increasing effect, and which can be easily removed from eyelashes simultaneously, for example, to provide a mascara.SOLUTION: The invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one kind of a first lipid soluble film formation polymer formed of vinyl ester (co)polymers; (b) at least one kind of a second lipid soluble film formation polymer selected from a group formed of polyvinyl alcohol and polyester of fatty acid; (c) at least one kind of oil; and (d) at least one kind of wax. In the composition, an amount of (a) the first film formation polymer is 0.4 mass% to 3.0 mass% to a total mass of the composition, preferably, 0.6 mass% to 2.8 mass%, more preferably, 0.8 mass% to 2.6 mass%, an amount of (b) the second film formation polymer is 0.2 mass% to 2.0 mass%, preferably 0.3 mass% to 1.8 mass%, more preferably, 0.4 mass% to 1.6 mass% to the total mass of the composition. The composition can apply a cosmetic effect such as a volume increase effect which can be maintained for a long term without generating bleeding, and simultaneously, the composition of the invention can be removed easily, from keratin fibers.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions, such as mascaras, suitable for keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, more preferably eyelashes, and methods relating to said compositions. [Background technology]

[0002] Mascara generally comes in two types of formulations: Water-based mascaras, such as emulsions containing water, known as cream mascaras, and Anhydrous mascaras, known for example as waterproof mascaras, in the form of wax dispersions in volatile organic solvents It is prepared as:

[0003] Water-based mascaras in emulsion form, such as O / W emulsions, can be easily removed with water. However, when it comes to sweat, the water in sweat can make it difficult for the cosmetic effects of water-based mascaras in emulsion form to last.

[0004] Waterless mascara can maintain its cosmetic effect longer against sweat and other factors than water-based mascara. However, it may not be easy to remove waterless mascara from the eyelashes. Also, sebum on the skin around the eyes, such as the eyelids, can cause smudging around the eyes.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need for compositions for keratin fibers, and in particular eyelashes, that can provide long-lasting cosmetic benefits without smudging, while at the same time being easily removable from the eyelashes. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] French patent application FR-A-2792190 [Patent Document 2] U.S. Patent No. 4,887,622 [Patent Document 3] French Patent No. 2796529 [Patent Document 4] French Patent No. 2761959 [Patent Document 5] French Patent No. 2792618 [Non-patent literature]

[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), published by Academic Press [Non-patent document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-patent document 3] Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957 [Non-patent document 4] "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pp. 21-32 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular a mascara, for keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, which is capable of providing a long-lasting cosmetic effect, such as a long-lasting volumizing effect, without smudging, and which is at the same time easily removable from the eyelashes. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinyl ester (co)polymers; (b) at least one second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids; (c) at least one oil; (d) at least one wax; A composition comprising: (a) the amount of the first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the amount of the second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; This can be achieved by the composition.

[0010] (a) the first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer (i) at least one vinyl ester monomer, wherein the vinyl group is bonded directly to the oxygen atom of the ester group, and the ester group comprises a group bonded to a carbon atom of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group, selected from saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 19 carbon atoms; (ii) (i) at least one other monomer selected from vinyl esters, α-olefins, alkyl vinyl ethers, and allyl or methallyl esters, which are different from the vinyl ester monomer; The copolymer may be selected from the following copolymers:

[0011] (a) The first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer may be vinyl acetate / allyl stearate.

[0012] The (a) first lipophilic film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 1.0% to 2.2% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.4% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] (b) The second fat-soluble film-forming polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, and the fatty acid of the fatty acid polyester are linear saturated C6-C 30 , preferably C8 to C 24 , more preferably C 10 ~C 18 The fatty acid may be selected from fatty acids.

[0014] (b) The second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer may be polyvinyl laurate.

[0015] (b) The second lipophilic film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 1.4% by weight, more preferably from 0.9% to 1.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] (c) The oil can be selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0017] (c) The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] (d) The wax may be selected from non-polar waxes, preferably non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, more preferably non-polar natural hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] (d) The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one third lipophilic film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

[0021] The compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.

[0022] The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, more preferably a cosmetic composition for eyelashes, in particular a mascara.

[0023] The present invention may also relate to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, more preferably eyelashes, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0024] As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition, particularly a mascara, for keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, which can provide a long-lasting cosmetic effect, such as a long-lasting volumizing effect, without smudging, and at the same time can be easily removed from the eyelashes.

[0025] Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinyl ester (co)polymers; (b) at least one second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids; (c) at least one oil; (d) at least one wax; A composition comprising: (a) the amount of the first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the amount of the second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; It is a composition.

[0026] The compositions according to the present invention are capable of providing a cosmetic benefit, such as a volumizing effect, to keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, more preferably eyelashes, i.e., the compositions according to the present invention are capable of increasing the thickness of keratinous materials.

[0027] The cosmetic benefits provided by the compositions of the present invention can be long-lasting or long-lasting, as can be demonstrated by the maintenance of uniformity over time of the film formed by the compositions of the present invention.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention can reduce or eliminate bleeding that may occur around the eyes, such as on the eyelids.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention can form a cosmetic film on keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, more preferably eyelashes, and this film can be easily removed from the keratinous materials. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention has excellent removability.

[0030] Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to impart cosmetic effects such as a volumizing effect to keratin fibers such as eyelashes that can be maintained for a long time without smudging, and at the same time, the composition according to the present invention can be easily removed from keratin fibers. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is preferably for use on eyelashes. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful as a mascara.

[0031] The composition according to the present invention, because it comprises a first and a second film-forming polymer, can also provide curl retention benefits to keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, and more preferably eyelashes.

[0032] The present invention provides a composition for providing long-lasting cosmetic benefits, such as long-lasting volumizing benefits, without smudging, and for improving or enhancing the removability of the composition from keratinous materials. (c) at least one oil; (d) at least one wax; In a composition for keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, more preferably eyelashes, comprising (a) at least one first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinyl ester (co)polymers; (b) at least one second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids; The use of (a) the amount of the first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the amount of the second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; It can be characterized by use.

[0033] The compositions, methods and uses according to the present invention are described in more detail below.

[0034] [Composition] (First Lipid-Soluble Film-Forming Polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first lipophilic film-forming polymer. When two or more (a) first lipophilic film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.

[0035] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support or substrate, particularly keratinous materials such as eyelashes. Film-forming polymers contribute to curl retention properties.

[0036] (a) The first lipophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinyl ester (co)polymers, ie homopolymers or copolymers of vinyl esters.

[0037] (a) the first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer (i) at least one vinyl ester monomer, wherein the vinyl group is bonded directly to the oxygen atom of the ester group, and the ester group comprises a group bonded to a carbon atom of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group, selected from saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 19 carbon atoms; (ii) (i) at least one other monomer selected from vinyl esters, α-olefins, alkyl vinyl ethers, and allyl or methallyl esters, which are different from the vinyl ester monomer; The copolymer may be selected from the following copolymers:

[0038] The α-olefin may preferably have 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and the alkyl vinyl ether may preferably have an alkyl group containing 2 to 18 carbon atoms, and the allyl or methallyl ester may preferably have a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbon of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group.

[0039] The above copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinkers which may be either vinyl type, or allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyloctanedioate, divinyldodecanedioate and divinyloctadecandioate.

[0040] Examples of these copolymers that may be mentioned include the following copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / 1-octadecene, vinyl acetate / 1-dodecene, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethyloctanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyloctanoate / vinyl laurate, These include allyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl laurate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether crosslinked with tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / 1-octadecene crosslinked with divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene.

[0041] (a) The first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer is preferably a vinyl acetate / allyl stearate such as that sold under the name Mexomere PQ by Chimex.

[0042] The amount of (a) the first fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.4% by weight or more, preferably 0.6% by weight or more, more preferably 0.8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] The amount of (a) the first lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 3.0% by weight or less, preferably 2.8% by weight or less, more preferably 2.6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Therefore, the amount of (a) the first lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the invention is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (a) the first fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1.0% by weight or more, preferably 1.2% by weight or more, more preferably 1.4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (a) the first fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.2% by weight or less, preferably 2.0% by weight or less, more preferably 1.8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (a) the first lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1.0% to 2.2% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.4% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] (Second Lipid-Soluble Film-Forming Polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second lipophilic film-forming polymer. When two or more (b) second lipophilic film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.

[0049] Again, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support or substrate, particularly keratinous materials such as eyelashes. The film-forming polymer contributes to curl retention properties.

[0050] (b) The second lipophilic film-forming polymer is selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids.

[0051] (b) The polyvinyl alcohol used in the polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid as the second fat-soluble film-forming polymer is not particularly limited, and conventional polyvinyl alcohols can be used. The polyvinyl alcohol has a certain degree of polymerization. For example, polyvinyl alcohols having a degree of polymerization of 500 to 2000 can be used.

[0052] (b) The fatty acid used in the polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid of the second fat-soluble film-forming polymer is not particularly limited, and may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C6 fatty acid optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. 30 It may contain fatty acids, preferably linear saturated C6-C 30 , preferably C8 to C 24 , more preferably C 10 ~C 18 Fatty acids are used.

[0053] (b) In the polyester of the second lipophilic film-forming polymer, polyvinyl alcohol and a fatty acid, the hydroxyl groups of the polyvinyl alcohol are esterified with the fatty acid. The hydroxyl groups of the polyvinyl alcohol may be completely esterified with the fatty acid, or the hydroxyl groups of the polyvinyl alcohol may be partially esterified with the fatty acid.

[0054] (b) The second lipophilic film-forming polymer is preferably a polyvinyl laurate such as that sold under the name Mexomere PP by the company Chimex.

[0055] The amount of (b) the second fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.2% by mass or more, preferably 0.3% by mass or more, more preferably 0.4% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0056] The amount of (b) the second lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.0% by weight or less, preferably 1.8% by weight or less, more preferably 1.6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Therefore, the amount of (b) second lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the invention is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (b) the second fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.7% by weight or more, more preferably 0.9% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (b) the second lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1.5% by weight or less, preferably 1.4% by weight or less, more preferably 1.3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (b) the second lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 1.4% by weight, more preferably from 0.9% to 1.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] (oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil (c). When two or more oils (c) are used, they may be the same or different.

[0062] As used herein, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0063] (c) The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0064] (c) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0065] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0067] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0068] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is 10 or more.

[0069] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0070] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0071] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0072] Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0073] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids of the following can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0074] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0075] Sugar esters of fatty acids are made by combining the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 These compounds, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0076] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0078] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0079] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0080] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, Examples of suitable alkyl acrylates include purilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0082] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0084] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are the silicone oils described above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0085] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), published by Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0086] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly chosen from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type: dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide:

[0087] [ka]

[0088] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity of less than 1 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published by Todd & Byers in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Appendix C.

[0089] Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these being more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made primarily of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0090] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil, oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oil, e.g. viscosity 60000mm 2 DC 200 for / s, and Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0091] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0092] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.

[0093] Phenyl silicone oil has the following formula:

[0094] [ka]

[0095] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p, and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive; However, the sum of n+m+q is not 0.) The phenyl silicones may be selected from the following:

[0096] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: Silbione® oils from Rhodia, 70 641 series; oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil, manufactured by Dow Corning - Bayer PK series silicones, e.g. PK20 product, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0097] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1 to R1 in the above formula) 10 is methyl; p, q, and n=0; and m=1).

[0098] The organically modified liquid silicone may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, and examples thereof include silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils manufactured by Union Carbide.

[0099] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Lower alkanes, examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0100] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0102] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R—OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl groups and C 12 ~C 20 R may be selected from alkenyl groups, which may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxy group.

[0103] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0105] Therefore, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 The alcohol may be selected from:

[0106] Here, the term "saturated fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. The saturated fatty alcohol may be any linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched saturated C6-C6 fatty alcohols. 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20Fatty alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are more preferably used. 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.

[0107] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0108] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] It is also preferred that the (c) oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0110] Preferably, the (c) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is a short chain hydrocarbon (C1 to C 12 ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C ) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol; 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, as well as ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0111] (c) The oil is preferably selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] (c) The oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils.

[0113] Even more preferably, the (c) oil is selected from volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as isododecane, paraffin, and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0114] The amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] The amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, more preferably 60% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] (wax) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one wax (d). When two or more waxes (d) are used, they may be the same or different.

[0118] Waxes as used herein are lipophilic compounds that are generally solid at room temperature (25°C), capable of reversible change between solid and liquid states, and have a melting point of 30°C or higher (sometimes up to 120°C).

[0119] By bringing the wax into a liquid state (melting), it can be mixed with the oil to form a microscopically uniform mixture, but when the mixture is cooled to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes in the oil of the mixture. For example, the wax that can be used herein can have a melting point of more than 45°C, for example, 50°C or higher, or even 55°C or higher. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold by Mettler under the name DSC30. The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0120] A 15 mg sample of the product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from 0°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from 0°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. The change in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the power absorbed by the crucible containing the product sample during the second temperature increase is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0121] The waxes that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein are solid and rigid at room temperature and are selected from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The wax may also have a hardness, for example, in the range of 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa (e.g., 6 MPa to 15 MPa). The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength, which is measured at 20°C using a texturometer (sold by Rheo under the name TA-TX2i) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, which is moved at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0123] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20°C. The molten wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is allowed to recrystallize at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours and then stored at 20°C for at least 1 hour before the hardness measurement is carried out. The hardness value is the maximum compressive strength measured divided by the area of ​​the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

[0124] Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, privet wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricle wax, espartograss wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin and ozokerite, polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and waxy copolymers and esters thereof may be used.

[0125] Also, for example, linear or branched C8 to C 32 Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing fatty chains may also be used.

[0126] Among these oils, mention may be made, for example, of hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil (e.g., the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the trade name "Iso-Jojoba-50®"), hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate (sold by Heterene under the name "Hest 2T-4S"), and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate (sold by Heterene under the name "Hest 2T-4B").

[0127] For example, silicone waxes and fluorine waxes may also be used.

[0128] Furthermore, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol (sold under the name "Phytowax Olive 18 L 57") or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol (sold under the names "Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73" by the company Sophim) can also be used. Such waxes are described in French patent application FR-A-2792190.

[0129] In one embodiment, the composition disclosed herein may comprise at least one "tacky" wax, i.e., a wax having a tack of 0.7 Ns or more and a hardness of 3.5 MPa or less. The use of a tacky wax can, for example, provide a cosmetic composition that is easily applied to keratin fibers, adheres well to the keratin fibers, and provides a smooth, uniform, and rich makeup. The tacky wax used may have a tack ranging from 0.7 Ns to 30 Ns (such as 1 Ns or more, e.g., 1 Ns to 20 Ns, or even 2 Ns or more, e.g., 2 Ns to 10 Ns, or even 2 Ns to 5 Ns). The tackiness of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression or expansion) as a function of time at 20°C using a texturometer (sold by Rheo under the name "TA-TX2i®") equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming a 45° angle. The measurement protocol is as follows.

[0130] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C. The molten wax is poured into a container with a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is allowed to recrystallize at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours to make the surface of the wax flat and smooth, and then the wax is stored at 20°C for at least 1 hour before measuring the adhesive strength.

[0131] The texturometer spindle is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and then penetrated into the wax to a depth of 2 mm. Once the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the spindle is held for a further 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

[0132] During the relaxation time, the force (compression) decreases significantly until it reaches zero, after which, while withdrawing the spindle, the force (extension) becomes negative and then rises again to a value of zero. The adhesion force corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values ​​of the force (extension). The value of the adhesion force is expressed in Ns.

[0133] The adhesive wax that can be used generally has a hardness of, for example, 3.5 MPa or less, for example, a hardness of 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, further 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and further 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.

[0134] Hardness is measured according to the protocol above.

[0135] The tacky waxes that can be used include C alone or as a mixture. 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), such as those represented by the following formula:

[0136] [ka]

[0137] (wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38) C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearates or mixtures of these compounds are included.

[0138] Such waxes are sold, for example, by Koster Keenan under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®".

[0139] The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of, for example, less than 45°C.

[0140] As disclosed herein, waxes supplied in the form of small particles having sizes, expressed as an average "effective" volume diameter D[4,3], ranging from, for example, 0.5 to 30 micrometers, such as 1 to 20 micrometers, or even 5 to 10 micrometers, can also be used, and this form of wax is referred to herein as "microwax."

[0141] Particle size can be measured by a variety of techniques, including light scattering techniques (dynamic or static), Coulter counters, sedimentation velocity measurements (related to size by Stoke's law), and microscopy. These techniques measure particle diameter, and some techniques measure particle size distribution.

[0142] The size and size distribution of particles in the compositions disclosed herein are measured by static light scattering, for example, using a commercially available particle sizer (e.g., Malvern's MasterSizer 2000). The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory, which applies to isotropic particles and allows the determination of the "effective" particle size for non-spherical particles. This theory is described, for example, in the publication Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0143] As used herein, microwaxes are characterized by the meaning of an "effective" diameter by volume D[4,3], defined in the following manner:

[0144]

number

[0145] Vi is the effective diameter d i This parameter D[4,3] is given, for example, in the technical documentation of the granulometer.

[0146] Measurements are carried out at 25°C on dilute particle dispersions obtained from microwax in the following manner: 1) dilute 100 times with water, 2) homogenize the solution, 3) let the solution stand for 18 hours, and 4) collect the cloudy, homogenous supernatant.

[0147] The "effective" diameter is obtained by taking the refractive index for water to be 1.33 and the average refractive index for the particles to be 1.42.

[0148] Among the microwaxes that can be used in the compositions disclosed herein are, for example, carnauba microwaxes (e.g., the product sold by Micro Powders under the name "MicroCare 350®"), synthetic microwaxes (e.g., the product sold by Micro Powders under the name "MicroEase 114S®"), microwaxes comprising a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene waxes (e.g., the products sold by Micro Powders under the names "Micro Care 300®" and "Micro Care 310®"), microwaxes comprising a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes (e.g., the product sold by Micro Powders under the name "Micro Powders 325®"), polyethylene microwaxes (e.g., the products sold by Micro Powders under the names "Micropoly 200®", "Micropoly 220®", "Micropoly 220L®" and "Micropoly 250S®"), and polytetrafluoroethylene fine powders (e.g., "Microslip®"). 519® and Microslip 519L®, sold by the company Micro Powders, may be mentioned.

[0149] The wax (including tacky wax) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The term "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the wax particles have a size of 1 μm or less.

[0150] Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles and are described, for example, in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pp. 21-32.

[0151] For example, these wax microdispersions can be obtained by melting wax in the presence of a surfactant and, optionally, some water, followed by the gradual addition of hot water while stirring. Once the intermediate formation of a water-in-oil emulsion is observed, a phase inversion is then carried out to produce the final oil-in-water microemulsion. Upon cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles is obtained.

[0152] The wax microdispersion can also be obtained by stirring a mixture of wax, surfactant and water using a stirring tool such as an ultrasonic high-pressure homogenizer or a turbomixer.

[0153] The particles of the wax microparticle dispersion have, for example, an average size of less than 1 μm (such as in the range of 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), for example, 0.5 μm or less (such as in the range of 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm).

[0154] These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, but may also contain small amounts of oily and / or pasty fatty additives, surfactants and / or general fat-soluble additives / active agents.

[0155] When the wax or mixture of waxes is present in the compositions disclosed herein in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, the size of the particles, i.e., the average "effective" volume diameter D[4,3] as defined above, may be, for example, 1 μm or less, such as 0.75 μm or less.

[0156] The wax particles may have a variety of shapes, for example, the wax particles may be spherical.

[0157] (d) The wax is preferably selected from non-polar waxes, more preferably non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, even more preferably non-polar natural hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] The amount of (d) wax in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or more, and more preferably 10% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0159] The amount of (d) wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0160] The amount of (d) wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] (Third Lipid-Soluble Film-Forming Polymer) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one third lipophilic film-forming polymer. When two or more (e) third lipophilic film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.

[0162] Again, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support or substrate, particularly keratinous materials such as eyelashes. The film-forming polymer contributes to curl retention properties.

[0163] (e) The third lipophilic film-forming polymer is selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers.

[0164] Vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymer is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and C2-C 40 Alkenes, e.g., C3-C 20 It may be preferable that it may be a copolymer with an alkene.

[0165] Among the VP copolymers that can be used herein, mention may be made, for example, of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate copolymers.

[0166] The amount of (e) the third fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1.0% by mass or more, more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0167] The amount of (e) the third fat-soluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 5.0% by mass or less, preferably 4.0% by mass or less, more preferably 3.0% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0168] Therefore, the amount of (e) the third lipophilic film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] (fiber) In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one fiber to improve the elongation effect. Fibers useful in the present invention may be selected from rigid or non-rigid fibers and may be natural or synthetic. Natural fibers include, but are not limited to, cotton, silk, wool, and other keratin fibers. Synthetic fibers include, but are not limited to, polyester, rayon, nylon, and other polyamide fibers. In some embodiments, the fibers may be non-rigid fibers, such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers, or rigid fibers, such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold by Rhodia under the trade names "Kermel" and "Kermel Tech," or poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) fibers, particularly those sold by DuPont de Nemours under the name Kevlar®.

[0170] The fibers may be present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0171] (filler) The composition according to the invention may also contain fillers well known to those skilled in the art and selected from those commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Fillers should be understood to mean lamellar or non-lamellar, inorganic or organic particles. Representative examples of these ingredients include mica, silica, kaolin, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, polyamide powders such as Nylon® (Orgasol from Atochem), polyalanine powders, polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon®, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile powders such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic powders such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning), microbeads of polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin (e.g., Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica from Maprecos). Beads®)], glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.

[0172] Fillers, when present, are generally in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 1% to 20%, by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0173] (dyeing substance) The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one dyeing substance. Suitable dyeing substances include, but are not limited to, powdered dyeing substances, liposoluble dyes, and water-soluble dyes. The dyeing substance may be present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0174] The powdered dyeing substances may be selected from pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0175] The pigments that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated, and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated), zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D&C-type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.

[0176] The pearlescent agents that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments selected from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0177] Representative liposoluble dyes that can be used in accordance with the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red No. 17, DC Green No. 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow No. 11, DC Violet No. 2, DC Orange No. 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow.

[0178] Water-soluble dyes that can be used in accordance with the present invention include beetroot juice, methylene blue, disodium salt of ponceau, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, and xanthophylls.

[0179] (Other optional additives) The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any other additives normally used in the cosmetics field, for example chosen from solvents, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickeners such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydrophobic thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, UV filters, vitamins, moisturizers, cosmetic active agents such as emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Examples of hydrophobic thickeners that may be mentioned include organically modified clays, which are clays treated with compounds selected from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organically modified clays that may be mentioned include organically modified bentonites, such as those sold by Rheox under the name Bentone, for example those modified with distearyldimethylammonium halides such as chloride (Bentone 38 and Bentone 34) or those modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (Bentone 27).

[0181] The hydrophobic thickener may be selected from C8 to C30 fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular C8 to C30 fatty acid triesters of glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (tristearin), for example a mixture of acetylated glycol stearate and glyceryl tristearate (sold under the name Unitwix by United Guardian).

[0182] The hydrophobic thickener may also be chosen from C8 to C30 fatty acid esters of dextrins, such as, in particular, dextrin palmitate (especially that sold under the name Rheopearl by Chiba Flour Milling).

[0183] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water in an amount of not more than 10% by weight, preferably not more than 5% by weight, more preferably not more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most preferably be free of water.

[0184] In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the invention does not contain any water or contains water in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, preferably in an amount of not more than 1% by weight, preferably not more than 0.1% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most preferably may be free of surfactants.

[0186] In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of surfactants. The term "substantially free of surfactants" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain any surfactants or contains at least one surfactant in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used. Preferably, according to the present invention, the "surfactant" is capable of forming a foam with water without additives.

[0188] (Cosmetics) The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for eyelashes.

[0189] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition (particularly an eye makeup cosmetic composition), more preferably a mascara.

[0190] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used for the cosmetic treatment, preferably make-up, of keratinous fibres such as hair, eyebrows and eyelashes.

[0191] The composition according to the invention is preferably a mascara, more preferably a waterproof mascara, which can be removed with conventional cleansing products (such as cleansing oils).

[0192] The compositions according to the invention are preferably removable with water, preferably warm water, for example at a temperature of 30 to 45°C, preferably 35 to 37°C, with or without soap.

[0193] The composition according to the invention can be packaged in a cosmetic product comprising a container defining at least one compartment containing the composition, the container being closed by a closure member.

[0194] The container is preferably combined with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is in particular described in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. The applicator may comprise a plurality of application members and in particular be in the form of a comb obtained by molding. Such a comb is described, for example, in French Patent No. 2,796,529. The applicator may be integrally attached to the container, for example, as described, for example, in French Patent No. 2,761,959. Advantageously, the applicator is integrally attached to a rod which is itself integrally attached to the closure.

[0195] The closure can be connected to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the connection between the closure and the container is achieved in a way other than by twisting, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, or by click-fastening or tightening. The term "click-fastening" particularly refers to any system that involves elastic deformation of a part, in particular the closure, to cross a bead or cord of material, followed by the return of said part to its elastically unconstrained position after the crossing of the beads or cords.

[0196] The container may be made at least in part from a thermoplastic material, examples of which may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0197] Alternatively, the container is made of a non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

[0198] The container preferably comprises a drain arranged in the region of the opening of the container, which allows wiping of the applicator and possibly the rod which may be integrally connected to the applicator. Such a drain is described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 792 618.

[0199] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential components and optional components.

[0200] For example, the composition according to the present invention comprises: It can be prepared by a process comprising mixing components (a) through (d) and other optional components of the composition, preferably at a temperature of 90° C. or higher, preferably with further mixing with any of the optional components listed above.

[0201] [Method and Use] The compositions according to the invention can be used to coat keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, and more preferably eyelashes.

[0202] For example, the composition according to the invention can be used in a method for coating keratinous fibers, comprising: applying a composition according to the present invention onto keratinous fibers to form at least one coating on the keratinous fibers, The coating is removable from the keratin fibers using water and / or soap. It can be used by the method.

[0203] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, more preferably eyelashes, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0204] The above-mentioned cosmetic method may be aimed at imparting curl to keratinous materials and maintaining the curl of the keratinous materials (i.e., making the curls last), and / or increasing the thickness of keratinous fibers (i.e., increasing the volume).

[0205] The present invention also provides compositions for providing long-lasting cosmetic benefits, such as long-lasting volumizing benefits, without smudging, and for improving or enhancing removability of the composition from keratinous materials. (c) at least one oil; (d) at least one wax; In a composition for keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, more preferably eyelashes, comprising (a) at least one first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinyl ester (co)polymers; (b) at least one second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids; The use of (a) the amount of the first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the amount of the second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; It also relates to use. [Example]

[0206] The present invention will be described in more detail by examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting examples in the field of the present invention.

[0207] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4) Cosmetic eyelash compositions (mascaras) of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. All numerical values ​​for the amounts of components shown in Table 1 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.

[0208] [Table 1A]

[0209] [Table 1B]

[0210] [evaluation] The cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were each subjected to a sensory evaluation test by seven testers for volume, absence of bleeding, film uniformity, and removability according to the following criteria shown in Table 2. Each characteristic was evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5, i.e., scores of 1 to 5.

[0211] [Table 2]

[0212] The average score for each sample was sorted according to the following criteria: The results are shown in Table 1.

[0213] Very good: above 4.5 Good: over 3.0 and below 4.5 Normal: 3.0 or less

[0214] (volume) Each composition of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied by hand to the eyelashes of seven testers using a mascara brush (30 strokes each). After 6 hours, the volume of the eyelashes (thickness of the eyelash fibers) provided by each composition was evaluated as described above. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0215] (Absence of blurring) Each composition of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied by hand to the eyelashes of seven testers using a mascara brush (30 strokes each). After 6 hours, smudging under the eyelids was evaluated as described above. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0216] (film uniformity) Each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied to a glass plate using an applicator to form a film with a thickness of 150 μm. After 24 hours, the uniformity of the film was evaluated as described above. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0217] (removability) Each composition of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied by hand to the eyelashes of seven testers using a mascara brush (30 strokes each). After 6 hours, the eyelashes were washed with cleansing oil and rinsed with warm water. The removability of each composition was evaluated as described above. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0218] As shown in Table 1, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3 not only exhibited advantageous cosmetic effects represented by excellent volume gain and excellent film uniformity without smudging, but also advantageous removability with water.

[0219] On the other hand, the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1, which contained excessive amounts of the first and second oil-soluble film-forming polymers, caused bleeding.

[0220] The cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 2, which did not contain the first and second lipophilic film-forming polymers, exhibited poor volume buildup and film uniformity.

[0221] The cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 3, which did not contain the first lipophilic film-forming polymer, exhibited poor film uniformity.

[0222] The cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 4, which did not contain the second lipophilic film-forming polymer, also exhibited poor film uniformity.

Claims

1. (a) at least one first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinyl ester copolymers; (b) at least one second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinyl alcohol and polyesters of fatty acids; (c) at least one oil; (d) at least one wax; A composition comprising: the amount of the (a) first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer is 0.4% by weight to 2.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; The amount of the (b) second lipophilic film-forming polymer is 0.9% by weight to 2.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; composition.

2. The (a) first fat-soluble film-forming polymer is (i) at least one vinyl ester monomer having a vinyl group bonded directly to an oxygen atom of an ester group, said ester group comprising a group selected from saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups of 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to a carbon atom of a carbonyl portion of said ester group; (ii) at least one other monomer selected from vinyl esters, α-olefins, alkyl vinyl ethers, and allyl or methallyl esters, which are different from the vinyl ester monomer (i); The composition of claim 1, wherein the copolymer is selected from the group consisting of

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) first lipid-soluble film-forming polymer is vinyl acetate / allyl stearate.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) first lipophilic film-forming polymer is present in an amount of from 1.0% to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The (b) second fat-soluble film-forming polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, and the fatty acid of the polyester of fatty acids are linear saturated C 6 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acids are selected from C 10 to C 30 fatty acids.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) second lipid-soluble film-forming polymer is polyvinyl laurate.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) second lipophilic film-forming polymer is present in an amount of from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (c) oil is selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) oil is present in an amount of from 20% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d) wax is selected from non-polar waxes.

11. 11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (d) wax is present in an amount of from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising (e) at least one third lipophilic film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which is anhydrous.

14. 14. The composition according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic composition.

15. 1. A cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, comprising: Applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 onto the keratinous material. Including beauty methods.

Citation Information

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