Three-phase cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a three-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous lower phase, a non-silicone oily middle phase and a non-silicone oily upper phase. The present invention also relates to cosmetic uses of said composition for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming skin and / or hair and / or removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face, and to cosmetic methods using said composition.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a three-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous lower phase, a non-silicone oily middle phase and a non-silicone oily upper phase.The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or for removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face, and to a cosmetic method using this composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetic compositions consisting of three visually distinct phases exist on the market. These three-phase compositions are different from three-phase emulsions consisting of a dispersion of oil-in-water emulsion droplets in a continuous oily phase or water-in-oil emulsion droplets in a continuous aqueous phase, which are generally not visible to the naked eye at rest. In three-phase compositions, at rest, the lower phase generally consists of the densest aqueous phase, and at least one of the middle and upper phases is an oily phase. Each of these phases is separated from the adjacent phase by a single continuous interface, which is generally horizontal. This interface can be accentuated by using different dyes for each phase. The three-phase composition must be shaken before use to form a ready-to-mix emulsion. The latter must be stable enough to allow the three phases to be applied simultaneously, but must allow the three phases to quickly separate and return to their initial state at rest.

[0003] An example of a three-phase composition comprising an aqueous lower phase, an aqueous middle phase and an oily upper phase is described in WO2019 / 002579.

[0004] Many three-phase compositions are also available on the market, especially for use as skin make-up removal lotions or as mists for hair care and / or protection.Most of them, however, contain a high proportion of silicone oil (dimethicone) or liquid paraffin (mineral oil).However, consumers increasingly seek cosmetics that contain ingredients of natural origin and are no longer in favor of products that contain synthetic oils or oils of petrochemical origin, such as silicone and mineral oil.

[0005] Therefore, some compositions have been proposed that do not contain the above-mentioned compounds (especially Rene Furterer Triphasic Regenerating Anti-Hair Loss Serum), but these compositions contain a large proportion of alcohol, which makes them unsuitable for use in removing make-up from the eyes or completely removing make-up from the face.

[0006] Another solution proposed by SEPPIC is castor oil and plant-derived linear C 15 ~C 19 The present invention consists in using a combination of Emogreen® L15, a mixture of alkanes. This combination makes it possible to formulate a three-phase composition consisting of a lower aqueous phase, a polar oily middle phase based on castor oil, and a non-polar oily upper phase, i.e. Emogreen® L15. To obtain a clear interface between the aqueous and middle oily phases, it is necessary to add specific surfactants based on alkyl polyglycosides to the latter and salts to the former, which limits the freedom of the formulator. In particular, the recommended proportions to obtain a composition with a satisfactory appearance correspond to a fatty phase / aqueous phase ratio of 70 / 30. As a result, the composition obtained has a greasy feel and is suitable for the recommended hair application, but not for use as a make-up removing lotion. The applicant has further demonstrated that by increasing the proportion of aqueous phase, the interface obtained when the composition returns to a resting state after shaking is not clear. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] WO2019 / 002579 [Patent Document 2] EP1798213 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, no three-phase composition has been proposed that does not contain silicone oil, that contains at least 50% by weight of an aqueous phase and two distinct oily phases, and that has a clear interface at rest.

[0009] After considerable research, applicants have succeeded in satisfying all these requirements through careful selection of the components of the three phases. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] The present invention therefore provides a composition comprising: (a) an aqueous lower phase which represents at least 50% by weight of the composition and which comprises 2% to 15% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a non-silicone oily middle phase which comprises castor oil and optionally at least one vegetable oil; and (c) at least one linear or branched C 10 ~C 20 and a non-silicone oily upper phase comprising an alkane, where it is understood that when the oily middle phase comprises at least one vegetable oil, the weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is at least 65:35.

[0011] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or for removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face.

[0012] The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face, comprising topically applying this composition to the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0013] First, it should be noted that the term "between," as used throughout this description, is inclusive of values ​​that correspond to the lower and upper limits of the range in question.

[0014] Compositions according to the present invention comprise three separate phases, namely an aqueous lower phase, a non-silicone oily middle phase and a non-silicone oily upper phase, the components of which will now be described in detail.

[0015] aqueous lower phase The aqueous lower phase of the composition according to the invention represents at least 50% of the total weight of the composition, for example 50% to 90%, preferably 60% to 85%, more preferentially 70% to 80% of the total weight of the composition. The aqueous lower phase further comprises 48% to 73% by weight of water, preferably 50% to 65% by weight of water, more preferentially 50% to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the aqueous lower phase comprises 2% to 15% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the glycerol represents 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In fact, it has been observed that the glycerol used in these proportions improves the clarity of the interface between the aqueous lower phase and the oily middle phase.

[0016] In addition to the above mentioned components, the aqueous lower phase may comprise one or more additional components selected from at least one surfactant, which may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic surfactants from the alkyl polyglucosides and / or amphoteric surfactants such as cocamidopropyl betaine, at least one dye, at least one active agent, such as aqueous plant extracts and mixtures thereof.

[0017] The aqueous lower phase generally comprises at least one pH adjusting agent suitable for bringing the pH of the composition to within the range of 5 to 6.0. The aqueous lower phase may further comprise small amounts of alcohol, for example 1% to 10% by weight, preferably up to 5% by weight of ethanol, and / or salts, for example 0.1% to 5% by weight of NaCl and / or sodium bicarbonate, preferably up to 2% by weight of NaCl and / or sodium bicarbonate, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] Furthermore, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous lower phase comprises at least one dye suitable for imparting a different color to the oil-based middle phase.

[0019] Non-silicone oily mesophase The oily mesophase of the composition according to the invention comprises castor oil, which essentially consists of ricinoleic acid triglyceride, i.e. a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride, for example in an amount which may represent from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oily intermediate phase further comprises at least one other vegetable oil, the mass ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil being at least 65:35.In particular, it has been observed that the vegetable oil used in the above ratio makes it possible to improve the texture of the composition without being detrimental to the obtaining of a three-phase composition.The mass ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is advantageously at least 70:30, preferably between 70:30 and 90:10.

[0021] In the context of this description, the term "oil" refers to oil at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at 200 .mu.m (at 1 Pa) and which, when introduced in a proportion of at least 1% by weight into water at 25.degree. C., is completely insoluble in water or dissolves to less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil introduced into the water.

[0022] Vegetable oils can be obtained in particular by mechanical pressing, often cold pressing, of fruits, nuts or plant seeds. They consist of about 95% triglycerides, the rest being compounds called unsaponifiables, such as mono- and diglycerides and alcohols, carotenoids, chlorophyll, hydrocarbons, sterols and tocopherols. The triglycerides themselves can be simple (tri-esters of glycerol and three molecules of the same fatty acid) or mixed (tri-esters of glycerol and two or three different fatty acids), with mixed esters predominating. The fatty acids contained in vegetable oils are saturated and / or unsaturated, with chain lengths between 4 and 22 carbon atoms, with the majority between 12 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0023] Examples of vegetable oils that may be used may be selected from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, ethium oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oily middle phase further comprises at least one dye suitable for imparting a different color to the aqueous lower phase and the oily upper phase.

[0025] The oily intermediate phase may further comprise at least one additional component selected from active agents and / or UV filters which are liposoluble or lipodispersible in polar oily media, antioxidants, preservatives, fatty phase structuring agents, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0026] In contrast, the oily mesophase of the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone compounds, such as silicone oils, elastomers, gums or resins. In particular, it does not contain oils based on linear, branched or cyclic organopolysiloxanes. More specifically, it is preferred that the oily mesophase does not contain any oils other than castor oil and optionally at least one other vegetable oil.

[0027] The mesophase may represent from 8% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and better still from 12% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Non-silicone oily top phase The oily upper phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear or branched C 10 ~C 20 It comprises an alkane, this compound advantageously representing from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Linear or branched C 10 ~C 20 Examples of alkanes may be selected from decane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, eicosane and mixtures thereof.

[0030] Some of these alkanes, in particular decane, undecane and isododecane, are volatile, others, in particular tetradecane and pentadecane, are not. "Volatile alkanes" are understood to mean alkanes which have a vapor pressure of about 0.001 to 300 mmHg and preferably 0.01 to 10 mmHg at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, these alkanes have a flash point (measured according to the ASTM D93 standard) of less than 100°C, preferably between 50°C and 95°C, for example between 70°C and 90°C or even between 80°C and 90°C, and / or further have a kinematic viscosity at 40°C of less than 5 cSt or even between 1 and 3 cSt. Examples of linear alkanes include the linear C alkane described in particular in EP 1798213 and sold under the name Cetiol® Ultimate by the company BASF. 11 and C 13 Alkane, linear C sold under the trade name Vegelight® by BIOSYNTHIS 12 and C 14 A mixture of alkanes, linear C sold under the trade name Emogreen® L15 by SEPPIC 15 ~C 19 A mixture of alkanes, linear alkanes available under the trade name Parafol® from SASOL and linear C 6 available under the trade name Neossance Hemisqualane® from AMYRIS. 13 ~C 15 Mixtures of alkanes are included.

[0031] According to the present invention, linear C 10 ~C 20 It is preferred to use mixtures of alkanes and more preferentially linear alkanes.

[0032] In addition to the abovementioned oils, which are essentially non-polar, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other non-polar or slightly polar oil. "Non-polar or slightly polar oil" is understood for the purposes of this description to mean an oil whose polarity index, i.e. the interfacial tension between this oil and water, is greater than 20 mN / m.

[0033] Examples of non-polar or slightly polar oils include dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, dialkyl carbonates such as dicapryl carbonate, hydrocarbons such as squalane and squalene, polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutene and polydecene, mineral oil, C hexyl laurate, etc. 12 ~C 44 esters of acids and mixtures thereof, although it is preferred that the oily upper phase does not contain any oil other than the linear alkanes mentioned above.

[0034] The oily upper phase may represent from 8% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, it being clearly understood that the sum of the percentages of the three phases constituting the composition according to the invention is always equal to 100%.

[0035] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oily upper phase comprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from fragrances, antioxidants such as tocopherol and its esters, fatty phase structuring agents, surfactants, active agents and / or UV filters that are fat-soluble or fat-dispersible in a non-polar oily medium, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0036] In particular, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the oily upper phase comprises at least one dye suitable for imparting a different colour to the oily middle phase.

[0037] However, like the intermediate phase, the upper phase of the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone compounds.Moreover, the oily upper phase preferably does not contain any other ingredients than the above-mentioned linear or branched alkanes and optionally one or more fragrances, dyes, antioxidants and / or preservatives.

[0038] As mentioned above, at least one of the three phases of the composition according to the invention may contain an active agent, preferably an anti-aging active agent, in particular an active agent suitable for preventing and / or treating the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and / or pigmented spots, and which may in particular be chosen from free radical scavengers, agents stimulating keratinocyte and / or fibroblast differentiation and / or proliferation, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and / or collagen and / or dermal-epidermal anchoring fibres and / or elastic fibres, agents preventing the degradation of collagen and / or glycosaminoglycans and / or dermal-epidermal anchoring fibres and / or elastic fibres, anti-glycation agents, depigmenting agents and / or melanogenesis inhibitors and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Examples of such anti-aging active agents are, in particular, ascorbic acid, its salts, its ethers and its esters, in particular ascorbyl glucoside, adenosine, ribose, honey extract, proteins and glycoproteins extracted in particular from sweet almonds, hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, in particular from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupine, carcinine hydrochloride, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38, sold in particular under the trade names Matrixyl® 3000 and Matrixyl® Synthe'6 by the company Sederma, respectively, Lucas Polypeptides and pseudo-dipeptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-8 sold under the trade name Nutrazen® by Meyer, pentapeptide-18 sold under the trade name Leuphasyl® Solution by Lipotec, synthetic human decapeptide-9 sold under the trade name Neoendorphin® by Sandream and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 sold under the trade name X50 Myocept® Powder by Infinitec, silanes such as methylsilanol mannuronate, arabinoxylans, in particular those extracted from rye flour, galactoarabinan, in particular from larch, hyaluronic acid and its salts, polyphenols, in particular those extracted from mimosa, alpha-hydroxy acids, including those extracted from lemons, marjoram (Origanum majorana), wheatgrass (Helichrysum italicum), menyanthes, wild tricolor, horsetail, paracles (Acmella oleracea), Onopordum acanthium, Achillea millefolium (among others contained in the product Neurobiox® from BASF), Embelia concinna (sold by SEPPIC), Opuntia ficusindica (among others from Mibelle AG),Examples of such extracts include (typically aqueous) extracts of plants such as chestnut, papaya, argan tree, oat, sunflower, daisy, peony or dill, aqueous extracts of algae and in particular aqueous extracts of coralline algae, Jania rubens, Undaria pinnatifida, Alaria esculenta or Nannochlorosis oculata, in particular essential oils of myrtle or wheatgrass, zinc gluconate and / or copper gluconate and mixtures thereof.

[0040] As a variant or in addition, the active agent incorporated in at least one phase of the composition according to the invention may be chosen from hyaluronic acid, urea, polyols, xylitol, sorbitol, propylene glycol or moisturizing active agents such as xylitylglucoside, a mixture of xylitol and anhydrous xylitol sold under the name Aquaxyl® by the company SEPPIC, Reotier water, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] The above aqueous and oily phases may be mixed after homogenization of the respective components in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art to obtain a composition according to the present invention. When the composition is formed and placed in a container such as a bottle, it undergoes rapid phase separation after a few seconds. After shaking, the composition visually consists of a single phase, and when at rest, it undergoes rapid phase separation again.

[0042] The composition described above can be used to care for, cleanse and / or perfume the skin and / or hair (of the face and / or body) and / or to remove make-up from the skin, especially the face, including the eye contour area, if appropriate. The composition can be applied to the skin, for example, in the morning and / or in the evening, for example, 1 to 3 times a day. The composition can advantageously be in a bottle with a sprayer. The composition can be a rinse-off or leave-on composition. EXAMPLES

[0043] The present invention will be more clearly understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely by way of illustration and whose purpose is not to limit the scope of the invention, which is defined by the appended claims.

[0044] Example 1: Three-phase composition To prepare various compositions according to the invention, the components described below were mixed in the weight ratios shown below. aqueous phase Water 52.0~58.5% Glycerol 3.0~8.0% Anti-aging active agent (appropriate amount) Sea salt 1.0~1.2% Preservatives: 4.0-4.5% pH adjuster (appropriate amount) (Total aqueous phase 64.8~73.3%) Oily Interphase Castor oil 10.7~12.0% Vegetable oil 3.8~5.0% Anti-aging active agent (appropriate amount) Antioxidant (appropriate amount) Dye appropriate amount Fragrance (appropriate amount) (Castor oil / vegetable oil ratio: 68:32~74:26) (Total oily phase 1: 15.0~17.7%) oily upper phase Linear C 15 ~C 19 Alkane 9.0~17.50%

[0045] The various compositions described above are in the form of a three-phase composition at rest, with a very distinct interface and each phase being translucent or transparent.

[0046] Example 2: Comparative test Several compositions similar to that of Example 1 were prepared by varying the nature and / or proportions of its components. The appearance of the resulting compositions was visually evaluated. The results of these tests are summarized in Table 1 below.

[0047] [Table 1]

[0048] As becomes evident from these tests, and in particular from the comparison of the results obtained for comparative compositions A and 1A on the one hand, and for example 1 (according to the invention) on the other hand, vegetable oils can be added to the compositions according to the invention, as long as the minimum mass ratio between castor oil and vegetable oil of 65:35 is respected, otherwise it is not possible to obtain a three-phase composition. Moreover, castor oil and linear alkanes present in the oily middle phase and in the oily upper phase, respectively, cannot be completely replaced by oils of comparable polarity and density without affecting the physical appearance of the composition. Thus, obtaining a three-phase composition is not only related to the respective densities and polarities of the various phases, as shown by the comparison of the results obtained for comparative compositions B and C on the one hand, and for the composition of example 1 (according to the invention) on the other hand. Finally, the comparison of comparative composition D with the composition of example 1 according to the invention shows that glycerol constitutes a key component for obtaining a clear interface.

Claims

1. 1. A three-phase cosmetic composition comprising: (a) an aqueous lower phase comprising 2% to 15% by weight of glycerol, said lower aqueous phase accounting for at least 50% by weight of the composition, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a non-silicone oily middle phase comprising castor oil and optionally at least one vegetable oil; and (c) a non-silicone oily upper phase comprising at least one linear or branched C10-C20 alkane, wherein when said oily middle phase comprises at least one vegetable oil, the weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is at least 65:

35.

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the castor oil represents between 5% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the glycerol represents between 4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the linear or branched C10 to C20 alkane represents from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the linear or branched C10-C20 alkane is selected from decane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, eicosane and mixtures thereof.

6. 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily interphase comprises at least one vegetable oil and the weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is at least 65:

35.

7. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the vegetable oil is chosen from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, red chestnut pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, ethium oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof.

8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous lower phase represents from 50% to 90% of the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or for removing make-up from the skin.

10. 9. A cosmetic method for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or removing make-up from the skin comprising topically applying to the skin a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

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