Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials

Abstract

The solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials comprises a) at least one hydrophilic moisturizing agent, at least 2 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl fatty acid monoesters and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, c) a polyethylene wax, and e) at least one oil. A cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials comprises the step of applying the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances. More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances. The present invention also relates to a beauty method for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances.

Background Art

[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to enhance the positive appearance of the user's lips. Lipsticks can change the user's external facial features. In addition to changing the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be made in a number of colors and shades to promote the desired effect or express the user's mood.

[0003] To date, several prior art documents have been published regarding cosmetic solid compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips.

[0004] For example, International Publication No. 2013 / 191300 discloses, in a physiologically acceptable medium, - 5 to 30% by mass of a non-volatile non-polar oil or a mixture thereof, based on the total mass of the composition, - a total content of non-volatile silicone oil of 43 to 90% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, wherein at least one of the non-volatile silicone oils is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, and - 3 to 30% by mass of a wax or a mixture thereof and discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase.

[0005] Lipsticks containing a large amount of pigments usually show the drawback of not providing sufficient moisturization, i.e., humidification. Many efforts have been made to improve this drawback.

[0006] One good solution is to incorporate a large amount of polyol, such as glycerin, as an efficient wetting agent into the anhydrous solid product. However, due to the hygroscopicity of glycerin, such stick compositions tend to have the problem of sweating (i.e., multiple droplets appear on the surface of the lipstick) after temperature and / or humidity fluctuations, which is considered a quality issue by consumers.

[0007] Therefore, it is necessary to develop a moisturizing lipstick that exhibits good stability (i.e., anti-sweating performance).

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0008]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Patent Document 3

Non-Patent Documents

[0009]

Non-Patent Document 1

Non-Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0010] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to develop a moisturizing lipstick that exhibits good stability (i.e., anti-sweating performance).

[0011] Another object of the present invention is to provide a beauty method for caring for and / or applying makeup to keratinous substances, which will exhibit a moisturizing effect.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0012] Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and / or applying makeup to keratinous substances, comprising: a) at least one hydrophilic humectant of 2 wt.% or more based on the total mass of the composition; b) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glycerol fatty acid monoesters and polyglycerol fatty acid esters; c) polyethylene wax; and d) at least one oil The present invention provides a composition containing the same.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a beauty method for caring for and / or applying makeup to keratinous substances, comprising the step of applying the solid anhydrous composition described above to the keratinous substances.

Effects of the Invention

[0014] It has been found that the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention, by a combination of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glycerol fatty acid monoesters and polyglycerol fatty acid esters and polyethylene wax, has no sweating problems in an oven at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, 45°C for at least one month, and in an oven undergoing a temperature change cycle of -20°C to 47°C for one week.

[0015] It has also been found that the anti-sweating properties in a high humidity environment can be further improved in the presence of a thickening agent.

[0016] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent by reading the following detailed description and examples for carrying out the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limiting values of a range of values are included within the range, particularly in the expressions "between... and..." and "... to...".

[0018] As used herein, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as including any specifically recited feature, plus any optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0019] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments where there are no features other than the specifically recited features (i.e., "consisting of").

[0020] As used in this application, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. If the definitions of terms in this description conflict with the commonly understood meaning by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definitions described herein shall apply.

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amounts of components, etc. used in this description and the claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that can be changed as desired to obtain the desired performance.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2 wt.%, preferably less than 0.5 wt.% of water, based on the total mass of the composition. Where applicable, such a small amount of water may be provided by the components of the composition that contain it in residual amounts, but is not provided intentionally.

[0024] All percentages in this application refer to mass percentages, unless otherwise specified.

[0025] As used herein, the term "keratinous substance" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" is intended to mean all of the body's skin, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous substance is the lips.

[0026] The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention is a) at least one hydrophilic humectant of 2 wt.% or more based on the total mass of the composition, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl fatty acid monoesters and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, c) polyethylene wax, and d) at least one oil comprising.

[0027] The term "solid" as used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is 30 Nm -1 or more when measured according to the following protocol.

[0028] The composition for determining the hardness is stored at 20 °C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement.

[0029] The hardness can be measured at 20 °C by the "cheese wire" method, which preferably consists of cutting a rod-shaped product, which is preferably cylindrical, transversely by moving a wire at a speed of 100 mm / min with respect to the rod using a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm.

[0030] The hardness of a sample of the composition of the present invention is Nm -1 and is represented by and measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine manufactured by Indelco-Chatillon.

[0031] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. Denote the average of the three shear values read using the above-mentioned tensile testing machine as Y, and give it in grams. This average value is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0032] The hardness is calculated by the following formula: (Y × 10 -3 × 9.8) / L and converted to Nm -1 .

[0033] When measuring at different temperatures, before measurement, the composition is stored at this new temperature for 24 hours.

[0034] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness of 60 Nm -1 or more, preferably more than 75 Nm -1 at 20°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a hardness of less than 200 Nm -1 , preferably less than 160 Nm -1 at 20°C in particular.

[0036] Advantageously, these compositions have shear values in the range of 75 - 250, preferably 100 - 205 gF. Therefore, these compositions can be formulated in standard packaging without any composition support means.

[0037] Hydrophilic humectant According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition contains a hydrophilic humectant in an amount of 2 wt.% or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0038] The humectant is dispersed in the lipophilic or continuous phase of the solid anhydrous composition of the present invention.

[0039] The humectant is hydrophilic and includes polyhydric alcohols, ethoxylated and propoxylated polyols, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Preferred humectants are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Glycerin is most preferred.

[0041] Advantageously, the hydrophilic humectant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 2 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 4 wt.% to 10 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0042] Glyceryl fatty acid monoesters and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl fatty acid monoesters and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0043] Examples of glyceryl fatty acid monoesters suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters of C16 - C22 saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0044] Preferably, the glyceryl fatty acid monoesters are selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] More preferably, the glyceryl fatty acid monoesters used in the composition of the present invention are glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate).

[0046] Examples of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0047] Preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing 8 to 22, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0048] More preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 coconut fatty acid, polyglyceryl-4 coconut fatty acid, polyglyceryl-10 decalinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decacasterate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate, polyglyceryl-10 didodecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 heptastearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / succinic acid, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate,Selected from polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-8 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate, polyglyceryl-10 pentarinolate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinolate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinolate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastéarate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastéarate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastéarate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stéarate, polyglyceryl-2 stéarate, polyglyceryl-4 stéarate, polyglyceryl-8 stéarate, polyglyceryl-10 stéarate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostéarate, polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostéarate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostéarate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristéarate, polyglyceryl-10 tristéarate and mixtures thereof.,

[0049] Most preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester used in the composition of the present invention is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostéarate / polyhydroxystéarate / sebacate, or a mixture thereof.

[0050] In some preferred embodiments, the nonionic surfactant used is selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] In some more preferred embodiments, the nonionic surfactant used is selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl fatty acid monoesters and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 0.1 wt.% to 30 wt.%, preferably 1 wt.% to 8 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0053] Polyethylene wax According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition contains polyethylene wax.

[0054] Advantageously, the polyethylene wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 3 wt.% to 80 wt.%, preferably 5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0055] The inventors have found that the presence of polyethylene wax is beneficial as long as it is for structural stability and lip feel.

[0056] In addition to the polyethylene wax, optionally, other waxes such as microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, sunflower seed wax, candelilla wax, etc. may be present.

[0057] Oil According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition contains at least one kind of oil.

[0058] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0059] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0060] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0061] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, rape oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0063] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0064] The ester oil is preferably a liquid ester of a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 fatty monoacid or polyacid and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 fatty monool or polyol, and the total number of carbon atoms of the ester is 10 or more.

[0065] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monools, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate can be mentioned.

[0066] C4-C 22 esters of dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0067] Among others, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0068] The esters according to this variant form can also be selected from mono-esters, di-esters, tri-esters, tetra-esters and poly-esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] These esters may be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, isostearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, among others, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0070] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic / capric glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(capric acid / caprylic acid) glyceride (or capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride), and tri(capric acid / caprylic acid / linolenic acid) glyceride.

[0072] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group. These may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0074] When volatile, the silicone is more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly selected from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, and (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 -6 m 2 / s or less at 25 °C.

[0075] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which can be mainly mentioned polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0076] Also included can be polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), for example the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0077] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention can be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyl silicone oils.

[0078] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6 - C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isocetane, isododecane and isodecane. And - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0079] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (such as liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, and naphthalenes; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohol means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohol may be straight-chain or branched.

[0081] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH (wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain and branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms). In at least one embodiment, R is C 12 ~C 20 alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0082] Examples of aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The aliphatic alcohol is preferably a saturated aliphatic alcohol.

[0084] Therefore, the aliphatic alcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 alcohol, preferably a linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 alcohol, more preferably a linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohol selected from.

[0085] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. The saturated aliphatic alcohol is preferably selected from linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohols. Among the linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can be preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can be more preferably used. Branched C 16 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can be even more preferably used.

[0086] In some preferred embodiments, the oil is selected from rapeseed oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 10 wt.% to 90 wt.%, preferably 40 wt.% to 80 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0088] Thickening agent Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains a thickening agent, in particular a mineral thickening agent.

[0089] A mineral thickening agent is a mineral-based compound that thickens or modifies the viscosity of a cosmetic composition.

[0090] Non-limiting examples of mineral thickening agents include silylated silica, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organomodified hectorite (e.g., INCI: pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) distearyldimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate), activated clay (e.g., distearyldimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, and benzalkonium bentonite), and mixtures thereof.

[0091] In some examples, the mineral thickening agent is selected from silylated silica, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, distearyldimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, benzalkonium bentonite, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Preferably, when present, the total amount of the mineral thickening agent in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0093] The total amount of the mineral thickening agent may be 0.2 wt.% to 3 wt.%, 0.2 wt.% to 3 wt.%, 0.5 wt.% to 1 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0094] The inventors have found that a thickening agent can further improve the anti-sweating wiping properties of the composition according to the present invention under relatively high humidity conditions.

[0095] Paste-like compound Optionally, the solid anhydrous composition contains a paste-like compound.

[0096] As used herein, the term "paste-like compound" is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, exhibits an anisotropic crystal arrangement in the solid state, and contains a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23°C.

[0097] In other words, the melting onset temperature of the paste-like compound is less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound corresponds to 9 wt.% to 97 wt.% of the composition as measured at 23°C. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably corresponds to between 15 wt.% and 85 wt.%, more preferably between 40 wt.% and 85 wt.%.

[0098] The melting point of the solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments, and using the software "TA Universal Analysis".

[0099] The measurement protocol is as follows.

[0100] A 5 mg sample of the paste-like compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. During the second temperature increase, the change in the difference in the amount of electric power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of the paste-like fatty substance is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the paste-like compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak apex of the curve showing the change in the difference in the amount of electric power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0101] The liquid fraction by mass of the paste-like compound at 23 °C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23 °C to the heat of fusion of the paste-like compound.

[0102] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound (expressed in J / g) is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid state to a liquid state. The paste-like compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in the crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in the liquid form. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy absorbed for the sample to change from the solid state to a state consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 23 °C.

[0103] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained at a heating rate of 5 °C or 10 °C per minute in accordance with ISO standard 11357-3; 1999, using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

[0104] The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at 32 °C preferably corresponds to 30% to 100% by mass, preferably 50% to 100% by mass, more preferably 60% to 100% by mass of the paste-like compound. When the liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at 32 °C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end point of the melting range of the paste-like compound is 32 °C or lower.

[0105] The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at 32 °C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the heat of fusion of the paste-like compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 °C.

[0106] The paste-like compound can be particularly selected from synthetic paste-like compounds and fat substances of plant origin. The paste-like compound may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

[0107] The paste-like compound can be specifically selected from the following: - Lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters, such as isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, and oxypropylenated lanolin, - Petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum), - Polyol ethers selected from C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, aliphatic alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof. For example, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether containing five oxyethylene units (5OE) (CTFA name: PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether containing five oxypropylene (5OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), and mixtures thereof, more specifically, a mixture of PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, and soybean oil sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy (the components are in a mass ratio of 46 / 46 / 8, which is a mixture of 46% PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, and 8% soybean oil), - Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - Polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds, - Vinyl polymers, especially: ○ Olefin homopolymers and copolymers, ○ Hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, ○ Preferably C8-C 30 Linear or branched oligomers that are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates containing an alkyl group, ○ C8-C 30 Oligomers that are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing an alkyl group, and ○ C8-C 30Oligomers that are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing an alkyl group - One or more C2-C 100 , preferably C2-C 50 Fat-soluble polyethers obtained by polyetherification between diols. Among the fat-soluble polyethers that are particularly considered, there are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably those in which the mass ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. Among this family, particularly mentioned are copolymers in which the long-chain alkylene oxide is arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, such as polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymers, such as the ether of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel - Esters and polyesters. Among the esters, the following are particularly considered: ○ Esters of glycerol oligomers with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C6-C 20 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C6-C 10 dicarboxylic acids, especially diglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and diglycerol, in which a part of the hydroxyl groups of glycerol has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 sold under the reference name Softisan® 649 by Sasol ○ Vinyl ester homopolymers having a C8-C 30 alkyl group, such as vinyl laurate (especially sold under the reference name Mexomer PP by Chimex) ○ Arachidyl propionate, sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, ○ Phytosterol esters, ○ Fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, in particular those which are optionally hydrogenated (fully or partially) and optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, C6 - C 30 and more particularly C8 - C 18 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides, such as Softisan 100® sold by Sasol, ○ Pentaerythritol esters, ○ Aliphatic esters obtained from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is C4 - C 30 preferably C8 - C 30 and those of hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecenoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof, are preferably selected. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from C2 - C 40 preferably C 10 - C 34 and even more preferably C 12 - C 28 hydroxylated carboxylic acids, the number of hydroxyl groups of which is between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6. ○ If applicable, an ester of a diol dimer and a diacid dimer in which the free alcohol or acid functional group is esterified with an acid or alcohol group, especially a dimer dilinoleic acid ester (such esters can be selected especially from esters having the following INCI names: dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof), ○ Hydrogenated esters of rosin (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.), - Butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, for example, a product sold under the reference name Lipex 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, especially a product with the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, for example, a product sold under the reference name Sheasoft® by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuaçu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 manufactured by Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 manufactured by Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter, for example, a product sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by Croda, and also orange wax, for example, a product sold under the reference name Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, - Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as a mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oils, for example, a mixture sold under the reference name Akogel® by Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil), trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold under the commercial reference name Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example, a compound sold under the reference name Beurrolive by Soliance, - Hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleic acid, e.g., Risocast DA-L sold by Kao Corporation, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, e.g., Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil Co., Ltd., - And mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the paste-like compound used in the present invention is selected from esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as dimer dilinoleic acid esters.

[0109] More preferably, the paste-like compound is a compound of formula (I): R3-OCO-R1(-COO-R2-OCO-R1) n -COO-R3 (I) (Wherein, -COR1CO represents a dimer dilinoleic acid residue, -OR2O represents an aliphatic alcohol dimer residue having 16 to 68, 24 to 44, particularly 32 to 40, and more particularly 36 carbon atoms, -OR3 represents a monoalcohol residue having 4 to 40, particularly 6 to 36, particularly 8 to 32, particularly 16 to 28, and more particularly 18 to 24 carbon atoms, -n is an integer in the range of 1 to 15, particularly 2 to 10, and more particularly 5 to 7) Selected from.

[0110] Most preferably, the paste-like compound is an ester having the following INCI names: polyglyceryl-2 dimer dilinoleate isostearate copolymer, dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Preferably, when present, the paste-like compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt.% to 60 wt.%, preferably 0.01 wt.% to 30 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0112] Colorant The solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may optionally contain at least one colorant. Preferably, the amount of the colorant is less than 20 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound that can produce a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0114] The colorants considered in the context of the present invention can be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble organic or inorganic colorants, and materials having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Water-soluble dye The water-soluble colorants used according to the invention are, more particularly, water-soluble dyes.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and can impart color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water up to a concentration equal to at least 0.1 g / l, measured at 25 °C (formation of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.

[0117] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FD&C Red 4 (CI:14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI:15850), DC Red 22 (CI:45380), DC Red 28 (CI:45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI:73360), DC Red 33 (CI:17200), DC Orange 4 (CI:15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI:19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI:15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI:45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI:42053), DC Green 5 (CI:61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI:42090).

[0118] Non-limiting examples of sources of water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention include, in particular, those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, beetroot, grapes, carrots, tomatoes, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

[0119] Accordingly, water-soluble colorants suitable for use in the present invention include, in particular, carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] These may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyester, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuchsin.

[0121] Some of these water-soluble colorants are specifically approved for food use. Representative examples of these dyes that can be mentioned include, more specifically, the dyes of the carotenoid family referred to by food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a - g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

[0122] Pigment The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored inorganic (mineral) or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid organic phase and are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced by the composition.

[0123] Pigments can be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral materials and / or organic materials).

[0124] Pigments can be selected from single-color pigments, lakes and pigments with optical effects, such as goniochromatic pigments and nacre.

[0125] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments such as chromium oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and zirconium dioxide, chromium hydrates, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, synthetic fluorophlogopite, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] An organic lake is an organic pigment formed from a dye bound to a substrate.

[0127] Lakes are also known as organic pigments and include the following materials: - Cochineal carmine, - Organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluoran dyes And can be selected from mixtures thereof.

[0128] Among the organic pigments that can be particularly mentioned are those known by the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, - The organic lake may be an insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salt of an acid dye containing, optionally, at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group, for example, an azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dye.

[0129] The organic lake may also be supported on an organic support, for example, rosin or aluminum benzoate.

[0130] Among organic lakes, in particular, those known by the following names can be mentioned: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No. 30 Lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium Lake, D&C Red No.34 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 36 Lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake.

[0131] Also mentionable are fat-soluble dyes such as Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, etc.

[0132] The chemicals corresponding to each of the organic colorants cited above are mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 - 386 and 524 - 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association", the content of which is incorporated into this patent application by reference.

[0133] The pigment may also be subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0134] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicone, such as methicone, dimethicone, alkoxysilane (e.g., triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxydiethyldimethylsilicone), and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphate, perfluoroalkylsilane, perfluoroalkylsilazane, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxane containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group and amino acid; N-acyl amino acid or its salt; lecithin, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The N-acyl amino acid may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoil group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, zirconium salt, zinc salt, sodium salt, or potassium salt. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0136] The term "alkyl" as referred to in the compounds mentioned above refers to an alkyl group containing particularly 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0137] The hydrophobically treated pigment is particularly described in European Patent Application Publication No. 1086683.

[0138] Nacre For the purposes of this patent application, the term "nacre" may or may not have a nacreous luster and particularly means any shaped colored particles that are produced in a shell by a certain mollusk or alternatively synthesized and have a color effect through optical interference.

[0139] Examples of nacre that can be mentioned include nacre pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic dyes, especially titanium mica coated with those of the type described above, and also nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0140] These may also be mica particles having at least two continuous layers of metal oxide and / or organic colorant superimposed on their surface.

[0141] The nacre may more particularly have the colors or color tones of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0142] As examples of nacre that can be introduced as an interference pigment in the first composition, in particular, nacre colored gold sold under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) by BASF; nacre colored bronze sold under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck, and under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by BASF; nacre colored orange sold under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) by BASF, and under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) by Merck; nacre with a brown tone sold under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite) by Engelhard; nacre with a copper tone sold under the name Copper 340A (Timica) by BASF; nacre with a red tone sold under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by Merck; nacre with a yellow tone sold under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by BASF; nacre with a golden red tone sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by BASF; nacre with a pink tone sold under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by BASF;Particularly, black nacre with a golden hue sold under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica) by BASF, particularly blue nacre sold under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by Merck, particularly white nacre with a silver hue sold under the name Xirona Silver by Merck, and particularly golden-green and pink-orange nacre sold under the name Indian summer (Xirona) by Merck, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.;

[0143] Goniochromatic pigments For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" means that when the composition is spread on a support, in the a of the CIE 1976 color space * b * In the plane, when the angle of observation with respect to the vertical varies between 0° and 80° and the angle of incident light is 45°, it indicates a pigment that enables the acquisition of a color locus corresponding to a change amount Δh of at least 20° in the hue angle h°.

[0144] The color locus can be measured, for example, using an automatic spreader to spread the composition in a fluid form to a thickness of 300 μm on a contrast card of the Erichsen brand with the reference name Typ 24 / 5, and then using a spectrogonioreflectometer of the Instrument Systems brand with the reference name GON 360 Goniometer. The measured values are obtained with respect to the black background of the card.

[0145] Goniochromatic colorants can be selected, for example, from colorants with a multilayer interference structure and colorants of liquid crystals.

[0146] In the case of a multilayer structure, for example, each layer can be made of at least one material selected from the group consisting of, for example, the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers, and combinations thereof, and can include at least two layers.

[0147] The multilayer structure may or may not have symmetry in the chemical properties of the stacked layers with respect to the central layer.

[0148] Depending on the thickness and properties of the various layers, different effects can be obtained.

[0149] Examples of symmetric multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 (pigments having this structure are sold by BASF under the name Sicopearl), MoS2 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / MoS2, Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3, TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2, and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2 (pigments having these structures are sold by Merck under the name Xirona).

[0150] Liquid crystal colorants include, for example, silicone or cellulose ether grafted with a mesomorphic group. Examples of liquid crystal gonichromatic particles that can be used include those sold by Chenix and also those commercially available from Wacker under the name Helicone® HC.

[0151] Also, goniochromatic pigments that can be used include pigments that are effective on certain nacreous layers, synthetic substrates, particularly substrates such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum, or interference flakes obtained from a polyester film.

[0152] Non-limiting examples of goniochromatic pigments include, in particular, SunShine® goniochromatic pigments sold by SunChemicals, Cosmicolor Celeste® manufactured by Toyo Aluminium K.K., Xirona® manufactured by Merck, and Reflecks Multidimensions® manufactured by BASF, either alone or in a mixture.

[0153] Optionally, these particles may contain, or may be covered by, an optical brightening substance (or an organic white fluorescent substance).

[0154] Optical brightening substances are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk - Othmer", Volume 11, pages 227 - 241, 4th Edition, 1994, Wiley.

[0155] Their use in cosmetics takes advantage of the fact that they are chemical compounds having fluorescent properties that absorb in the ultraviolet region (maximum absorption at wavelengths less than 400 nm) and re - emit energy at wavelengths between 380 nm and 830 nm by fluorescence. More specifically, they can be defined as compounds that essentially absorb in the UVA region between 300 and 390 nm and essentially re - emit between 400 and 525 nm. The lighting effect is more specifically based on the emission of energy between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to the emission in the blue part of the visible region and, when this emission occurs on the skin, contributes to visually brightening the skin.

[0156] Particularly well-known optically brightening substances include stilbene derivatives, especially polystyryl stilbene and triazinyl stilbene, coumarin derivatives, especially hydroxycoumarin and aminocoumarin, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0157] The optically brightening substances that can be used may also be in the form of copolymers, such as acrylates and / or methacrylates, grafted with optically brightening groups, as described in French Application No. 9910942.

[0158] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0159] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from Yellow 5 Lake, Blue 1 Lake, Red 104(1) Lake, Red 223, Red 202, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, when present, the colorant is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt.% to 35 wt.%, preferably 5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0161] Other components The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further contain other components commonly used in the field under consideration.

[0162] For example, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further contain other components selected from polymers for improving usability, fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, collagen protectants and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention has been found to be able to exhibit improved anti-sweating performance in the presence of a thickener.

[0164] It is a common practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of other components present in the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not adversely affected, or are substantially not affected, by the envisaged addition.

[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention is a solid anhydrous composition, based on the total mass of the composition, a) 4 wt.% to 10 wt.% glycerin, b) 1 wt.% to 8 wt.% of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof, c) 5 wt.% to 15 wt.% polyethylene wax, d) 40 wt.% to 80 wt.% of at least one oil selected from rape oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof, and e) 5 wt.% to 15 wt.% of a colorant selected from Yellow No. 5, Blue No. 1, Red No. 104(1), Red No. 223, Red No. 202, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof to provide a composition.

[0166] Galene form The solid anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More specifically, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a lipstick or the like.

[0167] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods.

[0168] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a beauty method for caring for / making up keratin substances, the method comprising applying the above-described solid anhydrous composition to the keratin substances.

[0169] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Examples

[0170] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0171]

Table 1

[0172] (Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-4 of the present invention) Lipsticks (IE.) 1-6 according to the present invention and lipsticks (CE) 1-4 of the comparative examples were prepared using the components listed in Table 2 and Table 3 (unless otherwise indicated, the content is expressed as the mass percentage of the active material).

[0173]

Table 2

[0174]

Table 3

[0175] Preparation procedure The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows. 1). Pigments (Red 202, Red 104(1) and Yellow 5) were ground with rapeseed oil using a three-roll mill. 2). Oils, waxes, surfactants and paste-like compounds were weighed into the main container and the container was heated to around 95°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. 3). Add glycerin to the main container and homogenize the bulk at a strong stirring speed. 4). Add the pigment paste prepared in step 1). 5). Pour the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42 ± 2 °C and leave it in the mold at a temperature below 25 °C until the mixture solidifies. 6) Demold the lipstick from the mold.

[0176] Evaluation Evaluations were performed on the shear value, hardness, and anti-sweating and smudging properties of the prepared lipsticks.

[0177] The shear value and hardness were evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

[0178] The results of the shear value and hardness of each lipstick were summarized in Table 4.

[0179] [Table 4]

[0180] The anti-sweating and smudging properties of the lipsticks were evaluated as follows.

[0181] First, the lipsticks were placed in an oven having a constant temperature of 20 °C.

[0182] After 24 hours, the lipsticks were placed in six test ovens: One cycle oven: passing through a temperature change cycle of about one week at -20 °C to 47 °C, One HUM oven: set at 37 °C and 80% RH (relative humidity), and Four ovens: set at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C respectively without humidity control.

[0183] Except for the HUM oven with one sample standing upright without a cap, generally, for each lipstick, two samples (one upright and the other inverted) were placed in each oven simultaneously. At each checkpoint, the lipstick was taken out, the appearance of each lipstick was checked, the data was recorded, and the lipstick was put back.

[0184] The results of the anti-sweating of the lipsticks were summarized in Table 5 and Table 6. Here, Y means sweating (multiple droplets were seen on the surface of the lipstick), and N means no sweating.

[0185]

Table 5

[0186]

Table 6

[0187] From Table 5 and Table 6, it can be seen that the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention has no sweating problem in an oven at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C or 45°C for at least one month, and in an oven undergoing a temperature change cycle of -20°C to 47°C for one week.

[0188] It can also be seen that the anti-sweating property in a relatively high humidity environment can be further improved by the presence of a thickener.

Claims

1. A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances, comprising: a) at least one hydrophilic humectant in an amount of 2 wt.% or more based on the total mass of the composition; b) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof; c) polyethylene wax; and d) at least one oil The composition comprising the above components.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic humectant is present in an amount in the range of 2 wt.% to 20 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 wt.% to 30 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyethylene wax is present in an amount in the range of 3 wt.% to 80 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising a paste-like compound.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the paste-like compound is an ester having the following INCI names: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, dimerdilinoleic acid copolymer, dimerdilinoleic acid dimerdilinoleyl bisbehenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a thickener.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the thickener is a mineral thickener selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, distearyldimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, benzalkonium bentonite, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the oil is selected from rapeseed oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the oil is present in an amount in the range of 10 wt.% to 90 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one colorant selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble organic or inorganic colorants, and materials having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the colorant is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt.% to 35 wt.% based on the total mass of the composition.

14. Based on the total mass of the composition, a) 4 wt.% to 10 wt.% of glycerin, b) 1 wt.% to 8 wt.% of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof, c) 5 wt.% to 15 wt.% of polyethylene wax, d) 40 wt.% to 80 wt.% of at least one oil selected from rapeseed oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof, and e) 5 wt.% to 15 wt.% of a colorant selected from yellow 5 lake, blue 1 lake, red 104(1) lake, red 223, red 202, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof, the composition according to claim 1.

15. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up a keratinous substance, the cosmetic method comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous substance.

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