Cosmetics

A silicone-free cosmetic formulation using surface-treated powders with N-acyl amino acids and fatty acid polyglycerin esters addresses dispersibility and stability issues, providing a smooth feel and clear appearance.

JP7709276B2Active Publication Date: 2025-07-16SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2020188038
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2020-11-11
Publication Date
2025-07-16
Estimated Expiration
2040-11-11

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Silicone-free cosmetics face challenges in maintaining powder dispersibility, stability, and a good feel in use due to re-aggregation of powders during storage, and existing solutions using N-acyl amino acids as surface treatment agents still rely on silicone as a medium, failing to achieve a stable and clear appearance.

Method used

A cosmetic formulation combining powders treated with a specific surface treatment agent containing N-acyl amino acid or its salt and a surfactant, such as fatty acid polyglycerin esters, particularly polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, to enhance dispersibility and usability without silicone compounds.

Benefits of technology

The cosmetic achieves stable powder dispersibility, clear appearance, and a smooth feel in use, even without silicone, by using surface-treated powders and specific surfactants, ensuring long-term emulsion stability and effective pigment color development.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide a silicone-free cosmetic in which a surface treatment agent for powder contains no silicone compound, as well as the cosmetic itself contains no silicone compound, wherein the cosmetic has excellent powder dispersion, a stable and clear appearance, and a favorable feeling of use.SOLUTION: The present invention pertains to a cosmetic containing: (A) a powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent including at least two treatment agents, wherein one of the at least two treatment agents is N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; and (B) at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglycerin esters, the cosmetic containing no silicone compound.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic containing no silicone compound. More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic, particularly a makeup cosmetic, which does not contain a silicone compound, has excellent stability, and has a good feeling in use.

Background Art

[0002] Silicone compounds such as silicone oil are widely used not only in hair cosmetics such as shampoos but also in cosmetics applied to the skin such as foundations. Silicone compounds have characteristics such as high water repellency, no stickiness and a light feeling in use, and good spreading on hair and skin, and have the effect of improving the water resistance, feeling in use of cosmetics containing them, and the dispersibility of other compounding components. Furthermore, silicone compounds are also widely used as surface treatment agents for powder components.

[0003] Although silicone compounds have the above advantages, they also have problems such as being difficult to remove makeup with water due to their high water repellency and the cleansing for washing imposing a burden on the skin. Furthermore, since silicone compounds are usually not biodegradable, there is a concern that they may accumulate in the environment for a long time, pollute the environment, and disrupt the ecosystem. Therefore, in recent years, cosmetics called "silicone-free" or "non-silicone" that do not contain silicone compounds have attracted attention.

[0004] However, when the silicone compound that has contributed to improving the dispersibility of other compounding components such as powder in conventional cosmetics is removed, problems such as difficulty in maintaining the stability of the cosmetics occur. It has also been proposed to improve the detergency by using N-acyl amino acid instead of silicone compound as a surface treatment agent for powder. Patent Document 1 describes that an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic containing a powder surface-treated with N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof and a specific surfactant is excellent in both makeup retention and detergency.

[0005] However, the cosmetic described in Patent Document 1 contains silicone oil as a medium and does not fall within the category of silicone-free cosmetics. A silicone-free cosmetic obtained by removing the silicone compound from the cosmetic described in Patent Document 1 has a problem in that the powder tends to re-aggregate during storage, and thus excellent powder dispersibility, a stable and clear appearance, and a good feel in use cannot be obtained.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0006]

Patent Document 1

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0007] The present invention is powder not only a surface treatment agent of [[ID=]], but also a silicone-free cosmetic in which the cosmetic itself does not contain a silicone compound, which has excellent powder dispersibility, does not re-aggregate the powder over time, has a stable and clear appearance, and also has a good feel in use. The problem is to provide a cosmetic.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0008] As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has found that by combining a powder (especially a pigment) treated with a specific surface treatment agent with a surfactant having a specific structure, a stable cosmetic excellent in powder dispersibility, pigment color development, and feel in use (smoothness) of the cosmetic can be obtained without blending a silicone compound, and the present invention has been completed.

[0009] That is, the present invention is (A) A powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing at least two kinds of treatment agents, wherein one of the at least two kinds of treatment agents is N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof, and (B) At least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglycerin esters including A cosmetic characterized by not containing a silicone compound is provided.

Effect of the Invention

[0010] The cosmetic of the present invention has good dispersibility and stability of the blended powder even without blending a silicone compound. Also, it has excellent color development of the powder (pigment), and a smooth feeling of use can be obtained without blending an organic polymer sphere. powder without blending, a smooth feeling of use can be obtained.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0011] (A) powder The powder (also referred to as "Component A") blended in the cosmetic of the present invention can be selected from the powder components blended in the cosmetic as long as the surface is treated with the following surface treatment agent, and is not particularly limited. Preferably, it is selected from white pigments containing titanium oxide and zinc oxide, coloring pigments containing iron oxide such as red iron oxide (vermilion), yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, extender pigments containing talc, mica, sericite, synthetic phlogopite, and barium sulfate, and ultraviolet scattering agents containing fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide.

[0012] (A) in the cosmetic of the present invention powder is a powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing at least two kinds of treatment agents, and one of the at least two kinds of treatment agents is an N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof. By using the powder surface-treated with these specific treatment agents, powder a cosmetic excellent in dispersibility, color development, and usability is obtained.

[0013] The "N-acyl amino acid or its salt" contained in the surface treatment agent in the present invention is a compound in which an acyl group, preferably a saturated fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, is condensed with the amino group of an amino acid, or a salt thereof. The "amino acid" is preferably glutamic acid or aspartic acid. Examples of the "N-acyl group" include a stearoyl group and a lauroyl group. The "salt" can be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, alkaline earth metal salts, etc., but a sodium salt is preferred. Specific examples include disodium N-stearoylglutamate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate, and sodium lauroylaspartate.

[0014] The surface treatment agent in the present invention contains at least one other treatment agent in addition to the above-mentioned "N-acyl amino acid or its salt". The "other treatment agent" is preferably selected from "amino acids", "esters", and "metal complexes of esters". The "amino acid" is not particularly limited, but is preferably selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and lysine, and lysine is particularly preferred. The "ester" is a compound in which a monovalent or divalent fatty acid having 8 to 12 carbon atoms and a saturated aliphatic alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms are bonded via an ester bond, and the alkyl chains of the fatty acid and the aliphatic alcohol may be linear or branched. In particular, isostearyl sebacate is preferably used. The "metal complex of an ester" is a compound in which an ester is coordinately bonded to a metal atom, and for example, isopropyl titanate triisostearate is given as a preferred example.

[0015] (A) used in the present invention powder is preferably a surface-treated one with a surface treatment agent (NHS treatment agent) containing disodium N-stearoylglutamate and isostearyl sebacate, a surface treatment agent (ASL treatment agent) containing sodium N-lauroylglutamate and lysine, or a surface treatment agent (ASI treatment agent) containing sodium lauroylaspartate and isopropyl titanate triisostearate. Among them, the one surface-treated with the NHS treatment agent or the ASL treatment agent powder is particularly preferred. powder ​

[0016] (A) powder Commercially available products can also be used. Preferred commercially available products include, for example, NHS-treated products such as NHS-Titanium CR-50, NHS-Red R516PS, NHS-Yellow LL-100P, NHS-Black BL-100P, NHS-Mica M-102, and NHS-Talc JA-46R powder (The above are products manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), ASL-treated products such as ASL-1 TiO2 CR-50, ASL-Red R516P, ASL-Yellow LL-100P, and ASL-Black BL-100P powder 、ASI-treated products such as ASI TiO2 CR-50, ASI-Red R516P, ASI-Yellow LL-100P, ASI-Black BL-100P, and ASI-Talc JA46R powder (The above are products manufactured by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), etc.

[0017] The cosmetic of the present invention may contain the powder (A) treated with the above surface treatment agent alone or in combination of two or more kinds, and the total blending amount thereof is 0.5 to 40% by mass, preferably 5 to 30% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0018] (B) Surfactant The surfactant (also referred to as "Component B") used in the cosmetic of the present invention is at least one selected from fatty acid polyglycerol esters. As the fatty acid constituting the fatty acid polyglycerol ester, it is preferably selected from monohydric (monohydroxy) fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. For example, saturated monohydric fatty acids such as isostearic acid and unsaturated monohydric fatty acids such as ricinoleic acid are preferred, and among them, polymers of ricinoleic acid are particularly preferred.

[0019] As the fatty acid polyglycerol ester, those having 3 to 8 repeating units of polyglycerol are preferably selected. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate as the (B) surfactant.

[0020] The blending amount of the surfactant (B) in the cosmetic of the present invention can be appropriately determined according to the specific surface area, particle diameter, and blending amount of the above component (A), but it is usually 0.1 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. Within the above range, a cosmetic excellent in powder dispersibility, having a stable and clear appearance without powder re-aggregation over time, and having a good feel in use can be obtained. powder

[0021] The cosmetic of the present invention is a "silicone-free" cosmetic that does not contain a silicone compound. As used herein, the "silicone compound" means a compound having a siloxane (-Si-O-Si-) structure in the molecule (for example, silicones and siloxanes) and silanes (monosilane, oligosilane, polysilane, and silane derivatives, for example, alkylsilane, alkoxysilane, etc.), and includes silicone oil, silicone elastomer, silicone-based surfactant, and further those surface-treated with a silicone compound. powder Note that silicon dioxide (silica) is not included in the "silicone compound" in the present invention.

[0022] By combining the above-mentioned specifically surface-treated powder (A) and the above-mentioned specific surfactant (B), the cosmetic is excellent in powder dispersibility, has a stable and clear appearance, and has a good feel in use even as a silicone-free cosmetic.

[0023] The cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared as an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, or an oily liquid cosmetic, but it is preferably prepared as an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic because the advantageous effects of the present invention are easily exhibited.

[0024] Examples of the oil component constituting the oil phase include oils other than silicone oil, such as hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0025] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include fluid paraffin, fluid isoparaffins such as hydrogenated polyisobutene, heavy fluid isoparaffins, fluid ozokerite, squalane, pristane, squalene, volatile hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, etc.).

[0026] Examples of ester oils include isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, alkyl benzoates (C12 - C15) such as alkyl benzoates, monoester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, 2 - hexyldecyl palmitate, diester oils such as di - 2 - ethylhexyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylene glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol di - 2 - ethylhexanoate, distearyl malate, triester oils such as glyceryl tri - 2 - ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri(caprylic acid / capric acid), etc.

[0027] Examples of higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleyl alcohol, 2 - decyltetradecynol, dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc. Examples of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc.

[0028] In addition to the above, other optional components commonly used in cosmetics and the like may be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention as long as the effects of the present invention are not inhibited. Examples of other optional components include, for example, those other than the above (A) powder , surfactants other than the above (B), polymer compounds, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, fragrances, pigments, preservatives, bactericides, various drugs, humectants, etc.

[0029] Those other than the above (A) powder are not particularly limited, but from the perspective of environmental protection in recent years, those not containing microplastic beads (MPB) thingis preferred. "Microplastic beads (MPB)" is narrowly defined as "synthetic non-water-soluble solid plastic particles less than 5 mm in size that are intentionally incorporated into personal care products for the purpose of exfoliation or cleansing." However, in this specification, "MPB" includes, in addition to the narrowly defined MPB, organic polymer spherical particles that were conventionally incorporated for the purpose of improving the usability of cosmetics and those treated with polymerized surface treatment agents powder shall be included. The cosmetics of the present invention achieve a smooth feel in use by combining the components (A) and (B).

[0030] The cosmetics of the present invention can be manufactured according to ordinary methods and can be made into dosage forms such as liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, solid, etc. The cosmetics of the present invention can be provided as makeup cosmetics such as makeup bases, foundations, concealers, blushes, eyeshadows, mascaras, eyeliners, eyebrows, overcoat agents, lipsticks, etc.; and skincare cosmetics such as sunscreen. However, they are particularly suitable for use as makeup cosmetics, especially liquid foundations.

Examples

[0031] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited by these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amounts are shown in mass%.

[0032] An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic was prepared according to Formulation 1 or Formulation 2 listed in Table 1 below using a conventional method.

[0033]

Table 1

[0034] As the "pigment" (*) in Table 1, pigments treated with the surface treatment agents shown in Table 2 below were used, and the powder dispersibility, color development, and usability (smoothness) of each cosmetic were evaluated. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. A: Good B: Normal C: Slightly inferior D: Inferior

[0035]

Table 2

[0036] As shown in Table 2, the cosmetics formulated with pigments treated with a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-stearoylglutamate and isostearyl sebacate (NHS treatment), a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-lauroylglutamate and lysine (ASL treatment), or a surface treatment agent containing sodium lauroylaspartate and isopropyltitanium triisostearate (ASI treatment), that is, a surface treatment agent containing two or more treatment agents containing N-acylamino acids or their salts, were excellent in all evaluated properties. Among them, the cosmetics formulated with pigments surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-stearoylglutamate and isostearyl sebacate (NHS treatment) or a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-lauroylglutamate and lysine (ASL treatment) had particularly excellent properties.

[0037] Next, oil-based liquid cosmetics were prepared according to a conventional method with the formulations listed in Table 3 below, and the powder dispersibility of each cosmetic was evaluated. The evaluation method and the ranking of the properties were the same as those in Table 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3.

[0038]

Table 3

[0039] As shown in Table 3, regardless of whether volatile hydrocarbon oil or non-volatile ester oil was used as the oil component in the oil-based liquid (liquid) cosmetics, by combining a specific surface treatment agent (A) with a specific surfactant (B), good dispersibility was obtained (Examples powder (A) and a specific surfactant (B), good powder dispersibility was obtained (Examples 4、5) On the other hand, in the examples using surfactants other than the fatty acid polyglycerol ester in the present invention and the examples without adding a surfactant, the dispersibility decreased (Comparative Examples 3 to 8). Also, in the examples using a silicone compound as the oil component, the dispersibility was poor regardless of the type of surfactant (Comparative Examples 9 to 13).

[0040] Next, cosmetics were prepared according to the formulations listed in Table 4 below, and the dispersibility of the powder, the feel during application (smoothness), and the stability of the emulsified state over time (4 weeks) were evaluated. The evaluation method and ranking of the powder dispersibility were the same as in Tables 2 and 3. The feel during application (smoothness) was evaluated by 5 professional panelists, and the feel during application (smoothness) was represented by the number of "+". The larger the number of "+", the higher the evaluation (however, even 1 "+" indicates a level where there are no practical problems). The stability of the emulsified state was visually observed for the presence or absence of appearance changes, and the presence or absence of viscosity changes was measured with a Brookfield viscometer (BL type). ○: No appearance and viscosity changes were observed. ×: Appearance or viscosity changes were observed.

[0041]

Table 4

[0042] As shown in Table 4, Comparative Example 14 using only polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate as the (B) surfactant was stable and could be used without problems for several days immediately after preparation, but emulsion breakage occurred after 4 weeks. Also, in Comparative Example 15 using silicone oil, the powder dispersibility decreased from immediately after preparation, resulting in insufficient emulsion stability, and a clear-appearance cosmetic could not be obtained. In contrast, Examples 6 to 9 using polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate maintained excellent stability even after 4 weeks.

Claims

1. (A) A powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing at least two types of treatment agents, wherein one of the at least two types of treatment agents is an N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof, and (B) at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglycerol esters, and the powder of (A) is a powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-stearoylglutamate and isostearyl sebacate, or a powder surface-treated with a surface treatment agent containing sodium N-lauroylglutamate and lysine, A cosmetic characterized by not containing a silicone compound.

2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant of (B) is a polyglycerol ester of a monohydroxy fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

3. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the surfactant of (B) is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate.

4. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.

5. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is an oily liquid cosmetic.

Citation Information

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