Peel-off film-forming cosmetic composition

Abstract

The object of the present invention is a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase, at least one pea starch having an amylose content of at least 30%, at least two plasticizers selected from polyols, and water, the polyol being understood to be present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for forming a peel-off film on keratinous materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising at least one bean starch having an amylose content of 30% or more, at least two plasticizers selected from polyols, and water in an aqueous continuous phase. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for forming a peel-off film on a keratinous substance.

Background Art

[0002] Film-forming compositions are those that are applied to tissues such as the skin, skin structures (nails or hair), mucous membranes, etc. to form a homogeneous film thereon, with or without an applicator. They are generally fluid when applied and conventionally contain a film-forming polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent, typically water or alcohol. When the solvent evaporates, the formation of a solid protective film becomes possible during the drying of the composition.

[0003] Film-forming compositions must have a controlled constitution such that they can be applied to a desired area regardless of its size, have sufficient fluidity to form a uniform film thereon, stay in the applied area without flowing during the drying time, and have sufficient thickness to form a film of appropriate thickness after drying.

[0004] In the field of skin care, cosmetic mask-type products are known in the cosmetic field. They are particularly in the form of gels, emulsions or pastes. There are masks that can be removed by peeling, and they are aqueous film-forming compositions based on polyvinyl alcohol. A peel-off mask, after being applied to the face and dried, gives a film that is removed by peeling. During the drying time, the occlusion effect of the mask can moisten and soften the stratum corneum, promoting the penetration of the active ingredients present in the composition. Furthermore, these masks bring about "peeling", particularly the removal of dead cells from the surface of the stratum corneum, when removed by peeling. They can also remove acne and blackheads.

[0005] However, the quality of peeling these masks is often disappointing, and the uniformity and strength of the formed film are generally insufficient, and the film is torn during peeling. As a result, the film needs to be removed in several steps.

[0006] In the field of makeup, peel-off film-forming compositions can be entertaining and / or facilitate makeup removal. They have developed, for example, in the field of nail polish.

[0007] Today, synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl acetate (PVA) are used in peel-off compositions. However, consumers are increasingly demanding cosmetics that are mainly composed of natural ingredients or ingredients derived from nature with minimal chemical modification. The removal of synthetic functional ingredients or their replacement with natural-derived ingredients is an important axis for the development of new cosmetics. However, the introduction of these new natural or natural-derived ingredients may be accompanied by a deterioration of the characteristics of the cosmetics in terms of their appearance, their use or their cosmetic properties. These insufficient or deteriorated cosmetic properties are disadvantageous for the image of the product.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0008]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Patent Document 3

Patent Document 4

Patent Document 5

Patent Document 6

Patent Document 7

[0009] [Non-Patent Document 1] 「Operating Instructions, Manual N° M / 92-021-M0101, Brookfield Digital Viscometer, Model DV-I+」

Non-Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0010] Therefore, there remains a need for a peel-off cosmetic composition that can form a continuous, homogeneous, flexible and comfortable film having sufficient thickness and long-lasting properties on a keratin substance, and that uses natural or natural-derived ingredients that allow removal by peeling.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0011] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that by combining a very specific bean starch with a plasticizer system having specific properties, namely containing at least two polyols, it is possible to produce a film-forming cosmetic composition that can form a continuous, homogeneous and comfortable film on a keratin substance, having an acceptable drying time and sufficient breaking strength and being removable by peeling. Complete removal of the composition can be achieved with water. In the case of a treatment mask, a drying time of less than 20 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes, is presumed to be acceptable. In the case of an eyeshadow, a drying time of less than 10 minutes, preferably less than 5 minutes, is presumed to be acceptable.

[0012] Therefore, according to a first aspect, an object of the present invention is a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising in an aqueous continuous phase - at least one bean starch having an amylose content of 30% or more, preferably between 30% and 75%, - at least two plasticizers selected from polyols, - water and. The polyol is understood to be present in an amount in the range of 8 to 25% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the object of the present invention is also - a step of mixing a plasticizer with water and optionally an emulsifier and / or a film-forming agent, - a step of adding starch while stirring until a gel is formed, - a step of optionally adding a gelling agent, - a step of optionally adding a colorant, - a step of optionally adjusting the pH, - a step of optionally adding alcohol and is a method for preparing such a composition.

[0014] According to a third aspect, a further object of the present invention is a method of makeup or care for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, which comprises applying such a film-forming cosmetic composition to the keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips.

[0015] Finally, the object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of such a composition for forming a peel-off film on keratinous substances.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0016] Galenic The composition according to the present invention has an aqueous continuous phase. Preferably, it is in the form of an aqueous gel.

[0017] Soybean starch The composition according to the present invention contains at least one soybean starch having an amylose content of 30% or more, preferably between 30% and 75%.

[0018] In particular, the amylose content is included within the range of 30% to 75%, preferably 30% to 45%, and more preferably 35% to 42%. The proportion of amylose is expressed as the dry mass relative to the dry mass of the starch and is determined before subsequent treatments such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of the starch.

[0019] The bean starch also has a Brookfield viscosity that is between 10 and 10,000 mPa·s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa·s, more preferably between 50 and 1,000 mPa·s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa·s, and even more preferably about 150 mPa·s, at 25 °C with 20% dry matter in an aqueous dispersion.

[0020] The Brookfield viscosity of 20 mass% dry matter in an aqueous dispersion at 25 °C is preferably included between 10 and 10,000 mPa·s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa·s, more preferably between 50 and 1,000 mPa·s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa·s, and even more preferably about 150 mPa·s. These variables of Brookfield viscosity can be combined with the variables of amylose content.

[0021] The viscosity within the scope of the meaning of the present invention is the Brookfield viscosity determined, for example, by a Brookfield RVDV-I+ viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC., Middleboro, MA, USA), using one of the spindles referred to as RV1, RV2, RV3, RV4, RV5, RV6 or RV7, and not using a device called a "Helipath Stand". The rotation of the spindle is set at 20 revolutions per minute. The spindles from RV1 to RV7 are selected such that the viscosity value displayed is included between 10% and 100% of the total viscosity scale possible with said spindle, as indicated by the manufacturer. To perform this viscosity measurement, a 300 ml 20% by mass aqueous suspension or aqueous solution of dry starch material prepared at 25 °C is placed in a low-form 400 ml beaker (approx. 7.5 cm in diameter) by mechanical stirring, for example by a deflocculating paddle, at 250 rpm for 15 minutes. The viscosity value is read at the end of 3 rotations. The measurement is carried out in accordance with any recommendations given by the manufacturer, for example with the manual "Operating Instructions, Manual N° M / 92-021-M0101, Brookfield Digital Viscometer, Model DV-I+", in order to obtain a reliable viscosity measurement.

[0022] "Legumes" within the scope of the meaning of the present invention means any plant belonging to the family Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae, and in particular any plant belonging to the family Papilionaceae such as, for example, pea, bean, broad bean, faba bean, lentil, or kidney bean.

[0023] Thus, the bean starch can be selected from pea starch, chickpea starch, broad bean starches, faba bean starches, bean starch, or flat bean starch.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the bean starch is pea starch, and most preferably pea (Pisum sativum) starch.

[0025] Furthermore, the bean starch is native pre-gelatinized starch, or optionally pre-gelatinized chemically modified starch.

[0026] The chemically modified bean starch can be selected from bean starches that have undergone at least two chemical modifications selected from at least one of chemical modification, preferably hydroxyalkylation, carboxyalkylation, hydrolysis, dextrinification, succinylation, alkylation, acetylation, cationization, and anionicization. These chemical modifications are modifications for stabilizing the bean starch, in other words, modifications for stabilizing the viscosity in an aqueous solution, in that they make it possible to reduce or eliminate the degradation of the gel or the aqueous solution of the starch.

[0027] Thus, the modified bean starch used in the context of the present invention may be hydroxyalkylated, carboxyalkylated, hydrolyzed bean starch, dextrin, or a combination thereof.

[0028] According to a preferred variant embodiment, the bean starch used in the context of the present invention is hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated bean starch. According to a highly preferred variant form, the bean starch used in the context of the present invention is hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated bean starch.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydroxypropylated pea starch" means pea starch substituted with hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by an etherification reaction with propylene oxide. In the context of the present invention, the hydroxypropylated pea starch is preferably included in an amount between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 9% by weight, particularly close to 7% by weight, based on the dry weight of the hydroxypropylated starch. This content is determined in particular by proton nuclear magnetic resonance analysis, in particular in accordance with the EN ISO 11543:2002 F standard.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrolyzed pea starch" means pea starch that has undergone a hydrolysis operation, i.e. an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular weight. Those skilled in the art know how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatment, or by enzymatic treatment. Those skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of hydrolysis, and thus the level of fluidization of the starch, according to the desired viscosity.

[0031] In the context of the present invention, pea starch that has been hydrolyzed, optionally gelatinized and / or includes other chemical modifications as described above has a mass average molecular weight preferably included between 1 and 2000 kDa, preferably between 10 and 1000 kDa, most preferably between 20 and 1000 kDa, even more preferably between 100 and 1000 kDa. For example, the molecular weight can be included between 200 and 800 kDa, 200 and 500 kDa, 200 and 400 kDa or 200 and 300 kDa. The mass average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high performance size exclusion chromatography coupled with multi-angle laser light scattering detection).

[0032] In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis preferably becomes non-granular.

[0033] In the context of the present invention, hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated starches that can be used in a preferred manner are commercially available, for example, under the trade designations LYCOAT RS 720 or LYCOAT NG 720 from Roquette Freres.

[0034] In addition to these chemical modifications, the starches according to the invention may also be subjected to physical treatments, in particular selected from known operations of gelatinization, alpha - conversion, extrusion, atomization or drying, operations using microwaves or ultrasound, plasticization or granulation treatments.

[0035] In particular, the starches according to the invention can preferably be made soluble. They can be made soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by heat and / or mechanical treatments, such as cooking operations (alpha - conversion) in an aqueous medium, followed, if desired, by a drying step when a powdery product is to be obtained. The operation of making the starch soluble can be carried out before or after the alkylation and / or hydrolysis of the starch. According to a preferred embodiment, hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starches are alpha - converted. Such starches are commercially available under the trade designation LYCOAT RS 720 from Roquette Freres. As an alternative to alpha - conversion, the starch can be gelatinized during the preparation of the composition in which it is used.

[0036] The hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated, optionally alpha - converted, pea starches according to the invention can also include any other physical and / or chemical modifications, provided that they do not interfere with the desired properties of the said starches. An example of a chemical modification is in particular cross - linking.

[0037] In particular, in the context of the present invention, the starch is present with a dry matter content between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 25% by weight, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0038] When the composition is mascara, the starch is present with a dry matter content between 1% and 20% by weight, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0039] When the composition is an eye shadow or a care mask, the starch is present at a dry matter content between 15% and 40% by mass, preferably between 20% and 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0040] Plasticizer The composition according to the invention also comprises at least two plasticizers selected from polyols.

[0041] Polyol means any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxy (-OH) groups in its structure. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 °C).

[0042] As an example of a polyol suitable for use in the composition, it is possible to select from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) having from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol and / or sorbitol units.

[0043] Preferably, the polyol is glycerol and sorbitol, more preferably a mixture with pentylene glycol.

[0044] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain plasticizers other than the above polyols.

[0045] More specifically, the composition according to the invention may - 1 to 15% by mass, preferably 5 to 10% by mass, of glycerin, based on the total mass of the composition, and - 1 to 7% by mass, preferably 2 to 5% by mass, of sorbitol, based on the total mass of the composition, and - 1 to 5% by mass, preferably 2 to 4% by mass, of pentylene glycol, based on the total mass of the composition and can contain.

[0046] When the composition is mascara or eyeshadow, the composition according to the invention may comprise: - glycerin in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; - sorbitol in an amount of 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; - pentylene glycol in an amount of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may contain.

[0047] When the composition is a care mask, the composition according to the invention may comprise: - glycerin in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; - sorbitol in an amount of 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; - pentylene glycol in an amount of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may contain.

[0048] Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally at least one water-soluble solvent other than the above polyols.

[0049] The term "water-soluble solvent" as used in the present invention refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water above 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0050] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be volatile.

[0051] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

[0053] The introduction of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 5 carbon atoms, can facilitate and accelerate the drying of the film.

[0054] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains 25 to 65% by mass, preferably 30 to 60% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0055] Hydrophilic gelling agent The composition according to the present invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0056] A gelling agent means a compound that creates a moderately strong intermolecular bond in the presence of a solvent, and thus induces a three-dimensional structure that solidifies the said solvent.

[0057] The hydrophilic gelling agent can be selected from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyesters, particularly sulfone type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.

[0058] Among the polysaccharides, - Algae extracts such as agar, carrageenan (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, particularly alginates of Na or Ca, and - Exudates of microorganisms, such as xanthan gum and its derivatives, products sold under the trade name "Rheosan" by Rhodia Chimie, gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by NUTRASWEET-KELCO, or iota carrageenan sold under the trade name "Seaspen PF 357" or "Viscarin SD 389" by FMC, or sclerotium gum (sclerotium gum or sclerotium rolfissii gum) produced from the bacterium Sclerotium rolfissii, available under the name Naturajel (registered trademark) by DIY Cosmetics or Amigel (registered trademark) by Alban Muller, and - Fruit extracts such as pectin, and - Gelating agents of animal origin, such as protein derivatives, especially gelatin from beef or fish, casein salts, and - Polysaccharides having side chains and six neutral sugars described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2759377(A), and - Their mixtures are mentioned.

[0059] Among polyacrylates, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate, and polyoxyethylenated 25EO behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: acrylate / behenate-25 methacrylate copolymer), such as Novethix L-10 Polymer by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, or those sold under the name Rheostyl (trademark) 90 N (INCI name: acrylate / behenate-25 methacrylate copolymer) by Arkema, are mentioned.

[0060] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polysaccharides, more preferably selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and their mixtures, such as the mixture sold under the name Actigum VSX 20 by Cargill.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the mixture of xanthan gum and sclerotium gum has a mass ratio (xanthan: sclerotium) between 1:2 and 2:1.

[0062] The hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably present in the composition according to the present invention at a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0063] Emulsifier The composition according to the present invention can also contain an emulsifier.

[0064] These emulsifiers can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, or other polymeric surfactants.

[0065] According to one embodiment, the surfactant that can be used in the context of the present invention is selected from non-ionic surfactants having an HLB between 8 and 20 at 25°C. In particular - esters and ethers of monosaccharides, such as cetylstearyl glucoside like Montanov 68 from Seppic, and mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, and - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of glycerol (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), and - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of aliphatic alcohols (especially C8-C24 alcohols, and preferably C12-C18 alcohols) (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as ceteareth-30 (CTFA name) having 30 oxyethylenated groups, steareth-20 (CTFA name) having 20 oxyethylenated groups, in particular the oxyethylene ether of a mixture of C12-C15 aliphatic alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups, commercially available under the name NEODOL 25-7 (registered trademark) by SHELL CHEMICALS (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), and - esters of fatty acids (especially C8-C24 acids, preferably C16-C22 acids) and polyethylene glycol (which may contain 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as stearic acid PEG-50 and monostearic acid PEG-40, commercially available under the name MYRJ 52P (registered trademark) by ICI UNIQUEMA in particular, or glyceryl stearate PEG-30, commercially available under the name TAGAT S (registered trademark) by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT in particular, and - Esters of fatty acids (especially C8 - C24 acids, and preferably C16 - C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain 1 - 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), for example, glyceryl PEG - 200 monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM (registered trademark) especially by SEPPIC, glyceryl polyethoxylated stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S (registered trademark) sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl polyethoxylated oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O (registered trademark) sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl polyethoxylated cocoate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 (registered trademark) sold by SHEREX, glyceryl polyethoxylated isostearate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L (registered trademark) sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, and glyceryl polyethoxylated laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I (registered trademark) by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, - Esters of fatty acids (especially C8 - C24 acids, and preferably C16 - C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain 1 - 150 oxyethylenated groups and / or oxypropylenated groups), for example, polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween 20 (registered trademark) especially by CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 (registered trademark) especially by CRODA, - Dimethicone copolyols such as those sold under the name Q2 - 5220 (registered trademark) by DOW CORNING, - Dimethicone copolyol benzoates (FINSOLV SLB 101 (registered trademark) and 201 (registered trademark) by FINTEX), - Copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also referred to as EO / PO polycondensates, - Lysophospholipids, especially lysophosphatidylcholine of the following formula, and

[0066] [Chemical formula]

[0067] [In the formula, R is a fatty acid chain, especially containing 10 to 25, preferably 15 to 20 carbon atoms]. Preferably, the lysophospholipid used in the composition of the present invention is obtained from soybeans. More preferably, its INCI name is Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract. For example, a mixture of 80% by mass of glycine and 20% by mass of Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract commercially available from Kemin under the name Lysofix Liquid® is used. - Emulsifying waxes, such as the self-emulsifying wax sold by Croda under the name Polawax NF, or the PEG-8 Beeswax sold by Gattefosse under the name Apifil, and their mixtures can be mentioned.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier with an HLB between 8 and 20 is selected from fatty acid esters, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolyzed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Lysophospholipids such as Lysofix Liquid® can thicken the composition and thus improve its spreadability.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of 8 or less at 25°C. In particular - Esters and ethers of monosaccharides, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121 (registered trademark) commercially available from ICI, and - Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of aliphatic alcohols (especially C8 - C24 alcohols, and preferably C12 - C18 alcohols) (which may contain 1 - 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as stearyl alcohol oxyethylene ether having 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth - 2"), and - Esters of fatty acids (especially esters of C8 - C24 acids, and preferably C16 - C22 acids) and esters of polyols, especially esters of glycerol or sorbitol such as glyceryl stearate, and esters of polyglyceryl - 2 such as glyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl - 2 stearate, polyglyceryl - 2 triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, products sold under the name TEGIN M (registered trademark) by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, products sold under the name IMWITOR 312 (registered trademark) by HULS, etc., and - Lecithins such as soybean lecithin (Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer, etc.), and - A mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2 - 3225C (registered trademark) by DOW CORNING can be mentioned.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, the non - ionic surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less at 25°C is selected from esters of fatty acids and polyols, preferably polyglyceryl - 2 triisostearate (INCI polyglyceryl - 3 diisostearate) commercially available under the name CITHROL PG32IS - LQ by Croda.

[0072] The composition according to the present invention may contain an emulsifier in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.2 to 13% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0073] Film-forming agent The composition according to the present invention can also contain a further film-forming agent other than starch, particularly a film-forming polymer.

[0074] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, synthetic polymers of the free radical type or polycondensation type, naturally derived polymers, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0075] The "radical film-forming polymer" means a polymer obtained particularly by polymerization of monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation, and each monomer can be homopolymerized (different from a polycondensate).

[0076] The radical type film-forming polymer may particularly be a vinyl polymer or a vinyl copolymer, particularly an acrylic polymer.

[0077] The vinyl film-forming polymer can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

[0078] As the monomer carrying an acidic group, unsaturated α,β-ethylenecarboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and itaconic acid can be used. Preferably, (meth)acrylic acid, itaconic acid, and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably itaconic acid (for example, metal salts of poly(itaconic acid) such as those commercially available under the product reference name REVCARE NE 100S by Itaconix) is used.

[0079] Esters of acidic monomers are preferably esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also referred to as (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C1-C30, preferably C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, especially C6-C10 aryl (meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, and are selected from these.

[0080] Among alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

[0081] Among hydroxyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0082] Among aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0083] Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0084] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the ester may be fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is, part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0085] As amides of acidic monomers, for example, (meth)acrylamide, especially N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide, especially C2-C12 alkyl can be mentioned. Among N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide can be mentioned.

[0086] The vinyl film-forming polymer can also be produced from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with the acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides as described above.

[0087] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and t-butyl vinyl benzoate.

[0088] Examples of styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.

[0089] Among the film-forming polycondensates, polyurethane, polyester, polyester amide, polyamide, epoxy ester resin, and polyurea can be mentioned.

[0090] The polyurethane can be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyester-polyurethane, polyurea, polyurea-polyurethane, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] The polyester can be obtained by polycondensation of a polyol, particularly a diol, and a dicarboxylic acid by a known method.

[0092] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic. Examples of such acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferably selected.

[0093] The diol can be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, and aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol selected from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol, and 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylolpropane can be used.

[0094] The polyester amide can be obtained in a manner similar to that of the polyester by polycondensation of a diamine or amino alcohol and a diacid. As the diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As the amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

[0095] The polyester may further contain at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO3M group, where M represents a hydrogen atom, ammonium ion NH4+, or a metal ion such as Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ions. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer containing such a -SO3M group.

[0096] The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further carrying the -SO3M group as described above can be selected, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl and sulfonyldiphenyl, and methylenediphenyl rings. Examples of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further carrying the -SO3M group include sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, and 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

[0097] It is preferable to use a copolymer based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate, and more specifically, a copolymer obtained by the condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid, and sulfoisophthalic acid is preferable.

[0098] Naturally derived, optionally modified polymers can be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammar, elemi, copal, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa, and / or polymers extracted from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel (registered trademark) commercially available from Silab), and mixtures thereof. Natural polymers such as Filmexel (registered trademark) make it possible to improve the retention of the film obtained from the composition according to the present invention in particular.

[0099] According to the first embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer is a water-soluble polymer and may thus be present in the aqueous continuous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0100] According to the second embodiment, the film-forming polymer may be present in the composition of the present invention in the form of particles in a dispersion in an aqueous phase or a non-aqueous solvent phase, and is generally known under the name of latex or pseudo-latex. Techniques for preparing these dispersions are known to those skilled in the art.

[0101] As the aqueous dispersion of the film-forming polymer, Neocryl XK-90 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1070 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1090 (registered trademark), Neocryl BT-62 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1079 (registered trademark) and Neocryl A-523 (registered trademark) by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 (registered trademark) by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD (registered trademark) or Daitosol 5000 SJ (registered trademark) by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., Syntran 5760 (registered trademark) by Interpolymer, the acrylic dispersion sold under the name of Allianz OPT by ROHM&HAAS, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymer sold under the brand name JONCRYL (registered trademark) by JOHNSON POLYMER, or Neorez R-981 (registered trademark) and Neorez R-974 (registered trademark) by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-410 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-425 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-450 (registered trademark), Sancure 875 (registered trademark), Sancure 861 (registered trademark), Sancure 878 (registered trademark), Sancure 2060 (registered trademark) by GOODRICH, Impranil 85 (registered trademark) by BAYER, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane sold under the name of Aquamere H-1511 (registered trademark) by HYDROMER, the sulfopolyester sold under the trade name of Eastman AQ (registered trademark) by Eastman Chemical Products, the vinyl dispersion such as Mexomer PAM (registered trademark) by CHLMEX and their mixtures can be used.

[0102] Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers include acrylic dispersions of isododecane such as Mexomer PAP (registered trademark) by CHIMEX, grafted ethylene polymers in a liquid fatty phase, preferably dispersions of particles of acrylic polymers. In particular, as described in WO 04 / 055081 pamphlet, the ethylene polymer is advantageously dispersed in a state where no further stabilizer is present on the surface of the particles.

[0103] According to a third embodiment, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase containing an oil or an organic solvent (the film-forming polymer is thus referred to as a fat-soluble polymer).

[0104] Examples of fat-soluble polymers include vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group is directly bonded to the oxygen atom of the ester group, and this vinyl ester has a saturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms and is bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer (different from the existing vinyl ester) which may be a vinyl ester, an α-olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms and being bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group).

[0105] These copolymers can be crosslinked using a crosslinking agent which may be of vinyl type, or allyl type or methallyl type, for example tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyloctanedioate, divinyldodecanedioate and divinyloctadecanedioate.

[0106] Examples of these copolymers include vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethylvinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethylallyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate / allyl stearate copolymer crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.

[0107] Examples of the fat-soluble film-forming polymers include fat-soluble copolymers, particularly those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters or alkyl acrylates or alkyl methacrylates having 9 to 22 carbon atoms, and the allyl group has 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0108] Such fat-soluble copolymers can be selected from polyvinyl stearate copolymer, polyvinyl stearate copolymer crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallyl ether copolymer or diallyl phthalate copolymer, poly(stearyl methacrylate) copolymer, polyvinyl laurate copolymer, poly(lauryl methacrylate) copolymer, and these poly(meth)acrylates can be crosslinked using methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0109] The fat-soluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in French Patent Application Publication No. 2232303 (A). They can have a mass average molecular weight in the range of 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably 4,000 to 200,000.

[0110] Moreover, fat-soluble homopolymers can be mentioned, in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates having 9 to 22 carbon atoms, and the alkyl groups have 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0111] Examples of fat-soluble homopolymers include in particular polyvinyl laurate and poly(lauryl methacrylate), and these poly(meth)acrylates can be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0112] As the fat-soluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the present invention, polyalkylenes, in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkyl celluloses having C1-C8 saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl groups, such as ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, in particular vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers and C2-C40, more preferably C3-C20 alkene copolymers can also be mentioned. An example of a VP copolymer that can be used in the present invention includes copolymers of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

[0113] Also, silicone resins that are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oil and are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers can be mentioned. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known by the name "MDTQ", and the resin is described according to the different siloxane monomer units it contains, with each letter of "MDTQ" characterizing the type of unit.

[0114] Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those marketed under the inquiry name of Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK by Wacker, and those marketed under the inquiry name of KR-220L by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0115] Examples of siloxysilicic acid resins include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (TMS) resins such as those marketed under the inquiry name of SR1000 by General Electric or under the inquiry name of TMS 803 by Wacker. Also, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid resins marketed with solvents such as cyclomethicone sold under the names "KF-7312J" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., "DOWSIL (trademark) RSN-0749" and "DOWSIL (trademark) 593 Fluid" by Dow Corning can be mentioned.

[0116] Also, silicone resin copolymers having polydimethylsiloxane, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymer marketed under the inquiry name of BIO-PSA by Dow Coing and described in U.S. Patent No. 5,162,410, or other silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of silicone resins as described above, and the silicone copolymers of diorganosiloxane described in WO 2004 / 073626 pamphlet can be mentioned.

[0117] Finally, acrylate / methacrylic acid polytrimethylsiloxy copolymers containing dendrimer carbosiloxane structures grafted to a vinyl backbone, commercially available under the query name DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID or DOW CORNING FA 4001 CM, can be mentioned.

[0118] Also, polyorganosiloxane-type silicone polyamides such as those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,874,069, U.S. Patent No. 5,919,441, U.S. Patent No. 6,051,216, and U.S. Patent No. 5,981,680 can be used.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the further film-forming polymer is selected from naturally derived, optionally modified polymers, preferably polymers extracted from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or polymers extracted from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® commercially available from Silab).

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain film-forming polymers other than bean starch.

[0121] Silicone elastomer The composition according to the invention can also contain a silicone elastomer.

[0122] By adding a silicone elastomer, it becomes possible to limit the fuzzing phenomenon that tends to occur especially during the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0123] Among the last ones, there can be mentioned at least partially cross-linked polymers produced by the reaction of an organopolysiloxane carrying an unsaturated group such as a vinyl group or an allyl group located at the end or in the middle of the chain, preferably on a silicon atom, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane. These polymers are usually available in the form of gels in volatile or non-volatile silicone solvents or hydrocarbon solvents. Examples of such elastomers are, in particular, those commercially available under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and under the trade names DOWSIL™ 9040 and DOWSIL™ 9041 by DOW CORNING. Another oil-based gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer obtained by the self-polymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy groups and hydrosilyl groups in the presence of a catalyst, and is commercially available under the trade name VELVESIL® 125 by GENERAL ELECTRIC. Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of cyclic dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone copolymers such as those sold under the trade name JEESILC® PS (including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM) by JEEN.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer may be an emulsifier, preferably selected from polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolized silicone elastomers.

[0125] Examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,236,986, U.S. Patent No. 5,412,004, U.S. Patent No. 5,837,793, and U.S. Patent No. 5,811,487.

[0126] As polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone elastomers, those having the INCI name PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, such as those commercially available under the names "KSG-21" and "KSG-20" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and those having the INCI name lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, such as those commercially available under the names "KSG-30", "KSG-31", "KSG-32" (in isododecane), "KSG-33" (in trioctanoin), "KSG-210", "KSG-310" (in mineral oil), "KSG-320" (in isododecane), "KSG-330", and "KSG-340" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. can be used.

[0127] As polyglycerol-modified silicone elastomers, those having the INCI name dimethicone (and) dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, such as those commercially available under the name "KSG-710" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and those having the INCI name lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, such as those commercially available under the name "KSG-840" (in squalene) by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. can be used.

[0128] Oil The composition according to the present invention can contain at least one oil selected from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate in less than 1 hour upon contact with keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvents and volatile oils of the present invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 ~300 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0130] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbonated. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms. As the volatile hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C8 - C16 branched alkanes, such as C8 - C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopars or Permyls, C8 - C16 branched esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof can be mentioned. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms are selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and in particular isododecane.

[0131] The volatile oil may be a volatile straight-chain alkane. According to one embodiment, the alkane suitable for the present invention may be a volatile straight-chain alkane containing 7 to 14 carbon atoms. Such a volatile straight-chain alkane may advantageously be of plant origin. As an example of an alkane suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the pamphlet of International Publication No. WO 2007 / 1068371 of Cognis or the pamphlet of International Publication No. WO 2008 / 155059 (a mixture of different alkanes, differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols and thus from coconut oil or palm oil. As an example of a straight-chain alkane suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile straight-chain alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the pamphlet of International Publication No. WO 2008 / 15505 by Cognis. Mention may also be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) commercially available under the name CETIOL ULTIMATE by BASF. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), as well as mixtures thereof, sold by Sasol under the reference names PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively. It is also possible to use the volatile straight-chain alkane alone or preferably a mixture of at least two different volatile straight-chain alkanes, differing from each other by at least one carbon number n, in particular by one or two carbon atoms.

[0132] The volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxane, linear polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples of the linear volatile polysiloxane include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Examples of the volatile cyclic polysiloxane include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

[0133] Alternatively or additionally, the resulting composition may contain at least one volatile fluorinated oil.

[0134] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0135] The non-volatile oil can be particularly selected from hydrocarbon-based oils and fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0136] As the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular - hydrocarbon oils derived from animals, and - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as straight-chain C4-C36 alkanes, preferably phytosqualane or C11-C21 alkanes such as Emogreen L15 (C15-C19 alkanes) from SEPPIC, or, for example, phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate, phytostearyl lauroyl / octyldodecyl / glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., ELDEW PS203), esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular triglycerides in which the fatty acids may have a chain length in the range of C4-C36, particularly C18-C36, these oils may be straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, chia oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, bancol abra gili oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, lulidisca oil, broccoli oil, cockscomb oil, amaranth oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, crossgri seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, ginger lily oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810 (registered trademark), 812 (registered trademark) and 818 (registered trademark) by DYNAMIT NOBEL, - Synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and - A synthetic ester such as an oil of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms as long as R1 + R2 ≥ 10. The ester can be particularly selected from esters of alcohols and fatty acids, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, particularly isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitates, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, C12 - C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate) and, - Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, and - Diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, for example, Lusplan DD - DA5 (registered trademark) and Lusplan DD - DA7 (registered trademark) commercially available from Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. and described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 175338, and - Diolefin dimers and diacid dimmer copolymers and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diolefin dimer / dilinoleic acid dimer copolymer and their esters, such as Plandool-G, and - Polyols and diacid dimmer copolymers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, and - Aliphatic alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains, which are liquid at room temperature, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic acid alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol (blatyloctanol), and 2-undecylpentadecanol, and - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof, and - Dialkyl carbonates where the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate commercially available under the name CETIOL CC (registered trademark) by COGNIS, and - In particular, high molar mass oils having a molar mass in the range of about 400 to about 10000 g / mol, particularly about 650 to about 10000 g / mol, particularly about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly in the range of about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol, and - Silicone oils such as phenylated silicones, such as BELSIL PDM 1000 (MM = 9000 g / mol) by WACIER, (other non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which contain alkyl or alkoxy groups at the ends of the side chains and / or silicone chains, each group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethylicone, phenoltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyltrimethicone having a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, and mixtures thereof), and - In particular, fluorinated oils that can be used in the present invention, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, and fluorinated silicones described in European Patent Application Publication No. 847752(A), and can be mentioned.

[0137] Wax The composition according to the present invention can contain at least one wax.

[0138] The waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds, solids at room temperature (25 °C), having a reversible solid / liquid state change, and having a melting point of 30 °C or higher and at most 120 °C.

[0139] In particular, the waxes suitable for the present invention can have a melting point of above about 45 °C, especially above 55 °C. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC30 by METLER.

[0140] The waxes that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are selected from waxes of animal, plant, mineral, or synthetic origin, which are solids and deformable or non-deformable at room temperature, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The wax can also have a hardness in the range of 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, preferably in the range of 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 °C using a texture meter equipped with a 2 mm diameter stainless steel cylinder that moves at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, sold under the name TA-TX2i by RHEO.

[0142] In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon waxes such as bead wax, lanolin wax, and carnauba wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, and Smack wax; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, and ozokerite; bead wax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene wax, waxes and wax-like copolymers obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and their esters. A mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax, and sunflower wax is commercially available, for example, under the trade name ACTICIRE MP by GATTEFOSSE. In particular, the hydrocarbon wax can be selected from carnauba wax, bead wax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] In addition, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having straight-chain or branched fatty chains from C8 to C 32 can be mentioned.

[0144] Among the latter, in particular, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by HETERENE, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE can be mentioned.

[0145] Moreover, it is also possible to use waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils such as castor oil or olive oil, for example, waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark) and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2792190(A).

[0146] It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may preferably be substituted polysiloxanes and preferably have a low melting point. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among such commercially available silicone waxes, in particular, those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) or 176 - 1118 - 3 and 176 - 11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC), alkyl dimethicones or alkoxy dimethicones, for example, the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP1622 and VP1621 (WACKER), and similarly (C20 - C60) alkyl dimethicones, especially (C30 - C45) alkyl dimethicones, for example, the silicone wax sold under the name SF - 1642 by GE - Bayer Silicones can be mentioned.

[0147] It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone groups or fluorinated groups, such as siliconyllanolin, siliconyllbeeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

[0148] The wax can also be selected from fluorinated waxes.

[0149] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax called an adhesive wax. As the adhesive wax, C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used alone or as a mixture, in particular C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate. Such waxes are sold, in particular, by KOSTER KEUNEN under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark)" and "Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark)".

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably selected from carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Lipophilic gelling agent Certain lipophilic gelling agents consist of copolymers of styrene and copolymers of olefins such as ethylene, propylene and / or butylene, as described in particular in WO 98 / 38981 pamphlet and US Pat. No. 6,309,629, optionally in combination with silicone or hydrocarbon solvents. These include, in particular, gelling agents based on block terpolymers available from PENRECO under the trade name VERSAGEL (registered trademark). Another type of lipophilic gelling agent is a polyamide, for example identified by the INCI name polyamide-3, in particular SYLVACLEAR (registered trademark) AF 1900V and PA 1200V polymers available from ARIZONA CHEMICAL, and also identified by the INCI name "ethylenediamine / hydrogenated dimer dilinoleic acid copolymer bis-di-C14-C18 alkylamide", for example consisting of those available from ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names SYLVACLEAR (registered trademark) A200V or SYLVACLEAR (registered trademark) A2614V. The lipophilic gelling agent is alternatively a hydrophobic modified bentonite or hectorite.

[0152] Colorant The composition according to the invention can also contain a colorant selected from pigments, nacre, and soluble dyes, and is preferably soluble in water.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant is selected from pigments and / or nacre.

[0154] The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film.

[0155] The pigment may be white or colored, and may be inorganic and / or organic.

[0156] The pigment may be an organic pigment. An organic pigment means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in the Ullmann encyclopaedia. Organic pigments are particularly metal complex types of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole compounds.

[0157] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments classified under the inquiry names of C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 in the Color Index, yellow pigments classified under the inquiry names of Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 in the Color Index, green pigments classified under the inquiry names of Cl 61565, 61570, 74260 in the Color Index, orange pigments classified under the inquiry names of Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105 in the Color Index, red pigments classified under the inquiry names of CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470 in the Color Index, and can be selected from pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2679771.

[0158] These pigments may be in the form of composite pigments as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments can be composed, in particular, of particles containing an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder that ensures the adhesion of the organic pigment to the core.

[0159] The pigment may also be a lake. A lake means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the aggregate thus obtained remains insoluble during use. Examples of lakes include products known by the name D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0160] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. A mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in the Ullmann encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, oxides of zirconium or cerium, similarly oxides of zinc, oxides of iron (black, yellow or red) or oxides of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder can be mentioned. The following mineral pigments can also be used: TiCO2, ZrO 2、 Nb2O5, CeO2, Ta2O5 mixed with ZnS, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2.

[0161] In the context of the present invention, the size of the useful pigment is generally included between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, more preferably between 30 nm and 1 μm.

[0162] The colorant may also be a soluble dye, preferably water-soluble.

[0163] Among the water-soluble dyes, cochineal carmine or products known by the following names can be mentioned: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0164] The nacre layer can be selected from those conventionally present in makeup products such as mica / titanium dioxide. Alternatively, these may be nacre layers based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE (registered trademark) from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS (registered trademark) from ENGELHARD), or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR (registered trademark) from MERCK).

[0165] The composition according to the present invention can contain a colorant in an amount of 0.0001 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.001 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.002 to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition according to the present invention.

[0166] Filler The composition according to the present invention can also contain at least one filler. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or structure of the composition.

[0167] The filler may be any shape, platelets, spheres or ellipsoids of minerals or organic substances, regardless of their crystallographic shape (e.g., sheet-like, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). Examples include talc, mica, silica, silica surface treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide powder (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powder of a polymer of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), microspheres of a copolymer of acrylic acid (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearls® from Toshiba Corporation), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonates and magnesium hydra-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

[0168] Cosmetic active agent The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one cosmetic active agent, which can be selected from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizers, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, whitening agents, self-tanning agents and agents promoting microcirculation.

[0169] Examples of vitamins include vitamin A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, and biotin.

[0170] Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl sorbate; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl sorbate, and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, esters of cephalin, hexametaphosphoric acid, phytic acid, such as the roots of Zingiber Officinale (ginger) like Blue Malagasy Ginger commercially available from BIOLANDES, Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate tea leaves, oak wood, cajeput bark, cherry leaves, and plant extracts of ylang-ylang leaves.

[0171] Examples of humectants include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, high molecular weight or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, or alternatively hyaluronic acid enhanced by silanol derivatives such as the active agent Epidermosil® commercially available from Exymol, and mucitin sulfate; carronic acid; atelocollagen; cholesteryl-12-hydroxystearate; bile salts, the main component of NHF (natural hydration factor) such as salts of carboxylic acid pyrrolidone and salts of lactic acid, amino acid analogs such as urea, cysteine and serine; short-chain soluble collagen, PPG diglycerin, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine homopolymers and copolymers such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure PBM from NOF; allantoin; glycerin derivatives such as PEG / PPG / polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerine sold under the trade name Wilbride® S753 from NOF or alternatively glyceryl polymethacrylate sold under the trade name Lubragel® MS from Sederma; trimethylglycine sold under the trade name Aminocoat® by Asahi Kasei Corporation and various plant extracts such as European gly extract, hydrolyzed hazelnut protein, polysaccharides of Tuberosa Polyanthes, kernel oil of Argania spinosa, and nacre extract containing conchiolin sold under the trade name Pearl Extract® by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. (Japan).

[0172] Other examples of moisturizing agents include compounds that stimulate the expression of MT / SP1 matriptase, such as locust bean pulp extract, as well as agents that stimulate the expression of CERT, RNAT2, or FN3K or FN3K RP; for example, agents that increase keratinocyte proliferation or differentiation by directly or indirectly stimulating β-endorphin production, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or cocoa bean husks, water-soluble extracts of corn, peptide extracts of Bambara groundnut (Voandzeia subterranea) and niacinamide; agents that increase epidermal lipid synthesis by directly or indirectly stimulating specific β-glucosidases that regulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as epidermal lipids and phospholipids, ceramides, hydrolyzed soy bean protein, and derivatives of dihydrojasmonic acid, such as glucosylceramidase of ceramides.

[0173] Examples of anti-pollution agents include Japanese horseradish seed extract (e.g., Purisoft® from LSN); shea butter extract (e.g., Detoxyl® from Silab), St. John's wort extract, phytic acid, a mixture of sunflower seed extracts (e.g., Osmopur® from Sederma).

[0174] Examples of keratolytic agents include α-hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid) and β-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid), as well as their esters, such as C12-13 alkyl lactate, and plant extracts containing these hydroxy acids, such as Hibiscus sabdriffa extract.

[0175] An example of an astringent is witch hazel extract.

[0176] Examples of anti-inflammatory agents include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxides and their derivatives, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizic acid and its derivatives, such as glycyrrhizinate.

[0177] Examples of bleaching agents include arbutin and its derivatives, ferulic acid (e.g., Cytovector (registered trademark) commercially available from BASF: water, glycol, lecithin, ferulic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose) and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol, lipoic acid, and its derivatives, e.g., resveratrol diacetate monolipoate described in WO 2006 / 134282 pamphlet, ellagic acid, leuco dopachrome and its derivatives, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologs, peptides described in WO 2009 / 010356 pamphlet, bio - precursors or tranexamic acid salts described in WO 2006 / 134282 pamphlet, e.g., cetyl tranexamate hydrochloride, especially licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra extract) sold under the trade name Licorice extract (registered trademark) by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., bleaching agents having antioxidant action, e.g., ascorbate, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids or sorbic acid, and other ascorbic acid derivatives, e.g., ascorbyl phosphate, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or sugar esters of ascorbic acid, e.g., ascorbyl - 2 - glucoside, 2 - O - alpha - D - glucopyranosyl L - ascorbic acid, or 6 - O - beta - D - galactopyranosyl L - ascorbic acid - containing vitamin C compounds. This kind of active agent is especially sold under the trade name Ascorbyl glucoside (registered trademark) by DKSH.

[0178] An example of a self - tanning agent is DHA.

[0179] Examples of agents that promote microcirculation include extracts of chickpea (such as Eclaline® from Silab), Saururus chinensis, Hamamelis virginiana, Hypericum perforatum, extracts of ginseng or Gymnema sylvestre, caffeine, nicotinic acid and its derivatives, algal extracts of Corallina officinalis such as those commercially available from CODIF; and mixtures thereof. These active agents that are active on skin microcirculation can be used to prevent dullness of color and / or improve color uniformity and brightness.

[0180] The composition according to the present invention can contain 0.0001 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.001 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.002 to 1% by mass of a cosmetic active agent based on the total mass of the composition according to the present invention.

[0181] Additives The composition according to the present invention can contain other components as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other components can be, for example, preservatives, pH adjusters such as citric acid or arginine, antibacterial agents, fragrances, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Preparation method

[0183] The object of the present invention is also a method for preparing a film-forming cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising: - a step of mixing a plasticizer with water and optionally an emulsifier and / or a film-forming agent; - a step of adding starch while stirring until a gel is formed; - a step of optionally adding a gelling agent; - a step of optionally adding a colorant; - a step of optionally adjusting the pH; - a step of optionally adding alcohol and including.

[0184] According to one embodiment, the mixing of the plasticizer with water and optionally an emulsifier and / or a film-forming agent is carried out at room temperature or at an elevated temperature, for example, at a temperature between 60 and 95 °C.

[0185] The object of the present invention is also a method for obtaining a peel-off film from a film-forming composition as described above, - applying a composition as described above to a keratinous substance, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, to form a uniform liquid film, - drying the composition for 10 seconds to 15 minutes which is a method characterized by.

[0186] Method for making up keratinous substances

[0187] The present invention also relates to a method for making up or caring for a keratinous substance, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, which method comprises applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous substance, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips.

Examples

[0188] (Example 1) Treatment mask A peel-off mask was prepared in the form of an aqueous gel having the composition shown in Table 1 below.

[0189]

Table 1

[0190] The preservative was dissolved in water under a deflocculator. Then Lysofix Liquid® by Kemin was added with moderate stirring until completely solubilized. LYOCAT RS720 and xanthan gum were made into a paste in glycol and then the mixture was placed in a beaker. Then it was mixed until a gel was obtained. Kaolin and FILMEXEL (registered trademark) by SILAB were added to the formulation and mixed until completely dispersed. Next, citric acid was added in an amount sufficient to reach about pH 5. Finally, ethanol was added and mixed until completely homogenized.

[0191] The mask was applied to the facial skin and dried. The composition spreads easily and evenly. The drying time is very fast (between 5 and 15 minutes), and the resulting film is uniform, flexible, and resistant. It can be easily removed by peeling.

[0192] For comparison, the compositions in Table 1 were reproduced, and endosperm starch (LYOCAT RS720) was replaced with corn starch (Meritena from Tereos, Comparison 1) or waxy corn starch (Structure XL from Akzo Nobel, Comparison 2). Meritena corn starch from Tereos disperses in water but cannot form a peel-off film. Comparative Composition 2 containing waxy Structure XL corn starch from Akzo Nobel does not spread evenly. After drying, no film is formed.

[0193] (Example 2) Eye shadow Eye shadow having the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared.

[0194]

Table 2

[0195] The eye shadow was prepared according to the following protocol: - Weigh the aqueous phase containing water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, preservative, and polysorbate 20, and stir it with a rotor-stator at 245 rpm. - Add LYCOAT RS 720 with stirring, and maintain stirring at 245 rpm for 5 minutes once a gel is formed. - Add Actigum VSX 20 while stirring with a rotor stator at 245 rpm, - Add a colorant while stirring with a rotor stator at 245 rpm, - Adjust the pH by adding arginine.

[0196] When applied, the formulation slides very well over the eyelid and its coating is thicker than that of commercially available eyeshadows. The product does not crumble into powder and thus does not deposit residues under the eyes (on the cheekbones). The makeup result is strong, durable over time, and the resulting film is a peel-off film, allowing for easy makeup removal.

Claims

1. In an aqueous continuous phase, - Endosperm starch having an amylose content of 30% or more, hydrolyzed, hydroxypropylated, and alpha - modified, and - At least three plasticizers selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, and sorbitol, and - A hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polysaccharides, and - An emulsifier selected from non - ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and polymeric surfactants, and - Water, A film - forming cosmetic composition comprising: The endosperm starch is contained at a dry matter content of 15% to 40% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, The plasticizer is contained at 8 to 25% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, The hydrophilic gelling agent is contained at 0.1 to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, The emulsifier is contained at 0.01 to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. A film - forming cosmetic composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the endosperm starch has a Brookfield viscosity of 10 to 10000 mPa·s at 20% dry matter at 25 °C in an aqueous dispersion.

3. The solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the endosperm starch has an amylose content in the range of 30% to 75%.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plasticizer is a mixture of pentylene glycol, glycerin, and sorbitol.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising 25 to 65% by mass of water based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the emulsifier comprises an emulsifier with an HLB between 8 and 20.

8. The emulsifier having an HLB between 8 and 20 is selected from fatty acid esters, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolyzed waxes and mixtures thereof, the composition according to claim 7.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a film-forming agent other than the pea starch, and being selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar, elemi, copal, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from Caesalpinia spinosa fruits and / or the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii, polymers of itaconic acid and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by comprising at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by comprising a colorant.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized by comprising at least one filler for modifying the rheology or constitution of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized by comprising a cosmetic active agent selected from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, humectants, anti-fouling agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, skin lightening agents, self-tanning agents and agents promoting microcirculation.

14. - A step of mixing the plasticizer with water and the emulsifier and / or optionally the further film-forming agent; - A step of adding the pea starch while stirring until a gel is formed; - A step of adding the hydrophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, a step of adding a colorant; - Optionally, a step of adjusting the pH; - Optionally, a step of adding at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms A method for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising.

15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that the step of mixing the plasticizer with water and the emulsifier and / or optionally the further film-forming agent is carried out at room temperature or at a temperature between 60 and 95 °C.

16. A method of makeup or care for a keratin substance, which comprises applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin substance.

17. A method for obtaining a peel-off film from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising: - applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to a keratin substance to form a uniform liquid film; - drying the composition for 10 seconds to 15 minutes; characterized by the above.

18. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for forming a peel-off film on a keratin substance.

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