Polyester blended interlaced yarn, fabric, and method for manufacturing the fabric

Abstract

To provide a polyester combined filament interlaced yarn capable of constituting a knit having three-dimensional crepe-like surface feeling and cotton-like feeling that could not be obtained with a conventional polyester combined interlaced yarn, and providing a knit with reduced fluffiness and sufficient surface touch of non-crimped yarn by giving not only entanglement points between a crimped yarn and a non-crimped yarn for forming a combined filament interlaced yarn but also entanglement points independently to a crimped yarn constituting a core yarn to suppress swelling while maintaining stretchability of the crimped yarn.SOLUTION: A polyester combined filament interlaced yarn and a knit satisfy that a polyester yarn A constituting a core yarn is a false twist crimped yarn; a polyester yarn B constituting a sheath yarn is multifilament flat yarn; boiling water shrinkage of the polyester yarn B is lower by 2% or more than that of the polyester yarn A; and ratio between the number of entanglement parts between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B and the number of entanglement parts independently owned by the polyester yarn A is 1:3 to 1:20.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a polyester mixed and interlaced yarn and a fabric using the same.

Background Art

[0002] Conventionally, as a fabric having both stretchability and a bulging feeling, a fabric having both stretchability and a bulging feeling has been studied using a mixed yarn obtained by mixing and interlacing a crimped yarn and a non-crimped yarn. Specifically, stretchability is imparted by using a high-crimp type or side-by-side type composite raw yarn as the crimped yarn, and heat treatment is applied to a mixed and interlaced yarn using a low-shrinkage type or self-extending type composite raw yarn as the non-crimped yarn. By causing a yarn with low shrinkage to protrude from the surface of the woven or knitted fabric due to the shrinkage difference, a bulging feeling can be imparted. Then, studies have been made on manufacturing a fabric having both stretchability and a bulging feeling by weaving using the mixed yarn and applying heat treatment.

[0003] For example, a mixed and interlaced yarn has been proposed that can obtain a delicate surface feeling due to the synergistic effect of both, in addition to the bulging feeling and stretchability of the crimped yarn and the surface touch of the non-crimped yarn, by mixing a crimped yarn subjected to false-twist processing and a non-crimped yarn made into a low-shrinkage type by heat treatment (see Patent Document 1).

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0004]

Patent Document 1

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0005] However, in the proposal of Patent Document 1 described above, since the bulging feeling of the crimped yarn is strong, although stretchability and a bulging feeling are obtained, the surface touch of the non-crimped yarn is poor.

[0006] The present invention aims to solve the above problems, suppress swelling while maintaining the stretchability of the crimped yarn, reduce puffiness when made into a fabric, and sufficiently feel the surface touch of the non-crimped yarn, and provide a polyester mixed conjugate yarn that can give a fabric having a three-dimensional puckered surface feel and a cotton-like texture, and a fabric using the same.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0007] Therefore, as a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has found that by imparting entanglement points not only to the entanglement points between the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn for forming a general mixed conjugate yarn, but also independently to the crimped yarn constituting the core yarn, it is possible to suppress swelling while maintaining the stretchability of the crimped yarn, reduce puffiness when made into a fabric, and sufficiently feel the surface touch of the non-crimped yarn. Moreover, by making the pitch between the entanglement portions of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn wider than that of a general mixed conjugate yarn, the degree of freedom of the non-crimped yarn increases, and a fabric with a weaker binding force between tissues compared to a woven fabric can obtain a three-dimensional puckered surface feel and a cotton-like texture, thus arriving at the present invention.

[0008] The polyester mixed conjugate yarn of the present invention is such that the polyester yarn A constituting the core yarn is a false-twist crimped yarn, the polyester yarn B constituting the sheath yarn is a multifilament flat yarn, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester yarn B is 2% or more lower than that of the polyester yarn A, and the ratio of the number of entanglement portions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B to the number of entanglement portions independently possessed by the polyester yarn A alone is 1:3 to 1:20.

[0009] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the above polyester mixed conjugate yarn, the polyester yarn A is a conjugate fiber by side-by-side type composite.

[0010] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the above polyester mixed conjugate yarn, at least one of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B contains 0.2 to 5% by weight of an inorganic oxide titanium oxide.

[0011] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester blended interlaced yarn is 2% or less for the polyester yarn B.

[0012] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B in the polyester blended interlaced yarn is 1 dtex or more.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyester blended interlaced yarn has a yarn length difference of 2% or more between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B.

[0014] The knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric knitted using 30% by mass or more of the polyester blended interlaced yarn.

[0015] Furthermore, the polyester blended interlaced yarn of the present invention is such that the polyester yarn a constituting the core yarn is a false-twist textured yarn, the polyester yarn b constituting the sheath yarn is a multifilament flat yarn, the yarn length difference between the polyester yarn a and the polyester yarn b is 2% or more, and the ratio of the number of entanglement portions of the polyester yarn a and the polyester yarn b to the number of entanglement portions independently entering only the polyester yarn a is 1:3 to 1:20.

[0016] The knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric containing 30% by mass or more of the polyester blended interlaced yarn.

Advantages of the Invention

[0017] The polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention can suppress swelling while maintaining the stretchability of the crimped yarn by imparting independent entanglement points not only to the entanglement points between the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn constituting the conjugate textured yarn but also to the crimped yarn constituting the core yarn. As a result, when made into a fabric, it is possible to reduce the puffiness and provide a knitted fabric in which the surface touch of the non-crimped yarn can be sufficiently felt. In addition, by widening the pitch between the entanglement portions of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn compared to a general conjugate textured yarn and making the non-crimped yarn a low boiling shrinkage type, the degree of freedom of the non-crimped yarn increases, and in a knitted fabric where the binding force between the tissues is weaker than that of a woven fabric, it is possible to feel a three-dimensional embossed surface texture and a cotton-like texture that were not present in conventional knitted fabrics.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0018]

Figure 1

Figure 2

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0019] In the polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention, the polyester yarn strand A constituting the core yarn is a false-twist crimped yarn, the polyester yarn strand B constituting the sheath yarn is a multi-filament flat yarn, the boiling shrinkage rate of the polyester yarn strand B is 2% or more lower than that of the polyester yarn strand A, and the ratio of the number of entanglement portions between the polyester yarn strand A and the polyester yarn strand B to the number of entanglement portions independently possessed by the polyester yarn strand A alone is 1:3 to 1:20.

[0020] That the polyester yarn A is a false-twist crimped yarn means that the polyester yarn A is a crimped yarn in which crimps are developed by false-twist processing. That the polyester yarn B constituting the sheath yarn is a multifilament flat yarn means that the polyester yarn B is an uncrimped yarn of multifilament that has not been false-twist processed and has no false-twist crimps. Hereinafter, the false-twist crimped yarn may sometimes be referred to as a crimped yarn, and the flat yarn may be referred to as an uncrimped yarn. Note that when the polyester blended interlaced yarn contained in a fabric such as a knitted fabric is decomposed into component yarns by knitting out or the like, it may have crimps due to knitting or the like, but the crimps due to knitting are not taken into consideration.

[0021] When the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester yarn B is 2% or more lower than that of the polyester yarn A, a difference in yarn length appears due to the difference in shrinkage between the core yarn and the sheath yarn, and the uncrimped yarn of the sheath yarn protrudes from the fabric surface to give a cottony texture. When the difference in boiling water shrinkage rate is less than 2%, the difference in shrinkage between the core yarn and the sheath yarn is not sufficient, and since the difference in yarn length is small, the uncrimped yarn does not protrude from the fabric surface and the synthetic fiber texture becomes strong. The preferable difference in boiling water shrinkage rate is 2.5% or more. As the upper limit, it is preferably 5% or less from the viewpoint of the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric.

[0022] When the ratio of the number of interlacing parts of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B to the number of interlacing parts independently possessed by the polyester yarn A alone is 1:3 to 1:20, it is possible to prevent a bulky feeling while maintaining the stretchability of the knitted fabric. By making the number of interlacing parts between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B smaller than the number of interlacing parts independently possessed by the polyester yarn A alone, the pitch between the interlacing parts widens, and the degree of freedom of the polyester yarn B, which is an uncrimped yarn, increases. As a result, when made into a knitted fabric, it is possible to give a surface feeling with a three-dimensional puckered texture. As the number of interlacing parts between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B approaches the number of interlacing parts independently possessed by the polyester yarn A alone, the polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B interlacing part number is taken as 1, the polyester yarn A only independently has interlacing part number isWhen it is less than 3, the pitch between the entanglement portions of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B becomes narrow, and the desired surface texture of the embossed pattern is not sufficiently expressed. On the other hand, the number of entanglement portions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is significantly reduced compared to the number of entanglement portions that the polyester yarn A alone has, and the polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B When the number of entanglement portions is set to 1, the polyester yarn A only independently has of the entanglement portion number is When it exceeds 20, the pitch between the entanglement portions of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B becomes wider, and although a surface texture of the embossed pattern can be obtained, long embosses are formed, resulting in an artificial surface texture instead of a natural one, and the abrasion resistance of the fabric decreases. The preferable ratio of the number of entanglement portions is 1:3 to 1:15. The preferable absolute value range of the number of entanglement portions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 5 pieces / m or more and 35 pieces / m or less.

[0023] FIG. 2 is a diagram for explaining the yarn form of the polyester conjugated entangled yarn of the present invention. The polyester yarn A21 constituting the core yarn is a false-twist textured yarn, the polyester yarn B22 constituting the sheath yarn is a multi-filament flat yarn, and it can be seen that there are two types of entanglement portions: the entanglement portion 23 between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B that winds around the polyester yarn B, and the entanglement portion 24 where only the single fibers of the polyester yarn A are wound, and the polyester yarn A alone has the entanglement portion 24. constituting the sheath yarn is a multi-filament flat yarn, and the polyester yarn A is It can be seen that there are two types of entanglement portions: the entanglement portion 23 between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B that winds around the polyester yarn B, and the entanglement portion 24 where only the single fibers of the polyester yarn A are wound, and the polyester yarn A alone has the entanglement portion 24.

[0024] As a method for forming an entanglement part between polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B and an entanglement part independently possessed only by polyester yarn A in the polyester mixed and entangled yarn of the present invention, a method of simultaneously imparting an entanglement part using an interlace nozzle in the process of mixing and entangling polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B is preferably mentioned. When mixing a crimped yarn and a non-crimped yarn, since the non-crimped yarn has no crimp, when the non-crimped yarn is not extremely overfed, the degree of freedom of the single fiber is less than that of the crimped yarn. In such a state, when the single fiber is opened during air ejection from the nozzle, the single fibers at both ends of the swelling of the opened single fiber are difficult to entangle. Therefore, when manufacturing a general mixed and entangled yarn, the yarn is loosened and supplied to the nozzle for mixed and entangled treatment. It is normal to perform mixed and entangled treatment while improving the process passability in the fabric manufacturing process by sufficiently entangling the single fibers of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn and preventing entanglement breakage in which the entanglement between the single fibers of the entanglement part is released.

[0025] On the one hand, regarding the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn of the present invention, focusing on the mixed-textured state of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn, the crimped yarn is supplied to the interlace nozzle in a relaxed state, while the non-crimped yarn is supplied with little relaxation. As a result, the crimped yarn is subjected to a general interlacing treatment. Although it is difficult to impart interlacing to the non-crimped yarn, when the single fibers of the crimped yarn increase their freedom and intertwine, the non-crimped yarn is involved in the mixed-textured interlacing treatment. As a result, an interlacing part independently possessed only by the polyester yarn strand A which is the crimped yarn and an interlacing part between the polyester yarn strand A and the polyester yarn strand B which is the non-crimped yarn are formed. The number of interlacing parts where the polyester yarn strand A which is the crimped yarn and the polyester yarn strand B which is the non-crimped yarn are mixed and enter is less than the number of interlacing parts independently entering the polyester yarn strand A which is the crimped yarn, and the pitch between the interlacing parts where the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn are interlaced is wider than the pitch between the interlacing parts independently entering the crimped yarn. The interlacing strength of the interlacing parts independently entering the crimped yarn with a high degree of freedom of single fibers during the interlacing treatment has the same interlacing strength as the crimped yarn subjected to a general interlacing treatment. However, the interlacing strength of the interlacing parts where the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn are mixed and enter is lower than that of general mixed-textured interlaced yarn because the crimped yarn is subjected to an intertwined mixed-textured interlacing treatment so as to cling to the non-crimped yarn. When used in a woven fabric, the interlacing parts mixed with the tension applied in the preparation process and the weaving process are loosened, and the surface feeling of the wrinkled texture changes partially, making it difficult to obtain the desired surface feeling and texture. Therefore, it is preferably used in a knitted fabric with a relatively low process tension, and more preferably used in a circular knitted fabric.

[0026] Regarding the type of nozzle for performing the mixed-textured interlacing treatment, although the type is not particularly limited, in order to achieve both a three-dimensional wrinkled surface feeling and a cotton-like texture, it is preferable to use an interlace nozzle.

[0027] In the polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention, the polyester yarn A usually has a multifilament form and may be a fiber composed of a single component, so-called single fiber, or a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components. When it is a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components, it is preferably a conjugate fiber by a side-by-side type composite. By using a conjugate fiber by a side-by-side type composite, a fabric having good stretchability and stretch-back property can be obtained due to the coiled shrinkage of the conjugate fiber accompanying the false twist shrinkage. The coiled shrinkage is considered to be expressed by the difference in internal strain between the two-component polymers by stretching and heat after spinning, and when the conjugate fiber receives heat in a relaxed state, the latent shrinkage is expressed and the shrinkage becomes apparent. As the conjugate fiber by a side-by-side type composite, it is composed of two types of polyester-based polymers having different viscosities, and the polymer varieties can be selected from polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate.

[0028] When the polyester yarn A constituting the core yarn is a single fiber, it is preferably a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) multifilament.

[0029] In the polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention, the polyester yarn B contains 0.2 to 5% by weight of titanium oxide in the polyester yarn B, and preferably has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 2% or less.

[0030] By setting the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester yarn B to 2% or less, a yarn length difference is generated due to the shrinkage difference with the polyester yarn A through heat treatment during post-processing or the like, causing the non-crimped yarn of the polyester yarn B to protrude on the fabric surface and giving a cotton-like texture. The boiling water shrinkage rate of general non-crimped yarns is about 5 to 10%, and that of general crimped yarns is about 4 to 8%. Since the crimped yarn is heat-set in the false-twisting process, its boiling water shrinkage rate tends to be lower than that of the non-crimped yarn. When using generally circulated non-crimped yarns, a sufficient yarn length difference due to the shrinkage difference with the crimped yarn cannot be obtained. Therefore, in the present invention, it can be produced by using a highly oriented undrawn yarn as the raw yarn, subjecting it to full drawing by drawing and high-temperature heat treatment to achieve low boiling shrinkage. A more preferable boiling water shrinkage rate is 1.5% or less.

[0031] As the polyester yarn B constituting the sheath yarn, multifilaments such as polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and cation-dyeable polyesters such as copolyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate are preferably mentioned.

[0032] The cross-sectional shapes of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B used in the polyester mixed-filament interlaced yarn are not particularly limited, but can be arbitrarily shaped according to the application or the like, and circular, triangular, flat, Y-shaped, star-shaped, wedge-shaped, multi-leaf-shaped, and daruma-shaped are preferable.

[0033] In the polyester mixed-filament interlaced yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the polyester yarns A and B each contain 0.2 to 5% by weight of an inorganic oxide in the polyester yarn A or the polyester yarn B.

[0034] Preferred examples of the inorganic oxide include titanium oxide, calcium oxide, magnesium oxide, zinc oxide, etc., and among them, it is more preferable to use titanium oxide.

[0035] These inorganic oxides can be those commonly used for incorporating into fibers.

[0036] Since the polyester yarns A and B contain the above inorganic oxide, irregularities caused by the particles of the inorganic oxide appear on the side surface of the single-filament filament, resulting in low friction and enabling a soft touch. In addition, by containing the particles of the inorganic oxide inside the fiber, the anti-permeability and ultraviolet shielding effect in the knitted fabric are improved. When the content of the inorganic oxide is 0.2% by weight or more, a soft touch, anti-permeability and ultraviolet shielding effect can be obtained. As the content of the inorganic oxide increases, the soft touch, anti-permeability and ultraviolet shielding effect are further improved. By setting it to 5% by weight or less, the orientation of the raw yarn does not become too unstable, the yarn manufacturing property and the operability in the higher-order processes after the spinning process are good, and since there are not too many particles of the inorganic oxide expressed on the side surface of the single-filament filament, it is also unlikely that the wear of the guides and mechanical parts in contact with the yarn in each higher-order process progresses and the replacement cycle becomes extremely short, which is preferable. A more preferable content of the inorganic oxide is 0.3 to 3.5% by weight.

[0037] In the polyester conjugate interlaced yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 1 dtex or more.

[0038] By setting it within the above range, it is preferable in that a knitted fabric having an appropriate firmness, a three-dimensional ribbed surface feel, an uneven feeling and a repulsive feeling when touching the fabric, and a cotton-like texture can be obtained. A more preferable range of the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn A is 1.1 dtex or more from the viewpoint of improving the repulsive feeling. As the upper limit, it is preferably 9.6 dtex or less, and more preferably 4.8 dtex or less from the viewpoint of hardening the texture. The single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn B is more preferably 2.2 dtex or more from the viewpoint of improving the three-dimensional ribbed surface feel. As the upper limit, it is preferably 8.3 dtex or less, and more preferably 5.6 dtex or less from the viewpoint of hardening the texture.

[0039] The polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn of the present invention has stretchability and a surface texture with a puckered finish, so it can be used for all general clothing without being limited in its applications. The total fineness of the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn is preferably 30 to 350 dtex, and more preferably 50 to 300 dtex.

[0040] Also, the elongation of the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn before weaving and knitting is preferably 17% or more. When the elongation is less than 17%, problems are likely to occur in the process passability in the high-order processing steps during weaving and knitting. More preferably, it is 18% or more and 50% or less. By setting the elongation to 50% or less, the yarn in the polyester composite false-twisted yarn is stretched by the processing tension applied in the high-order processing steps, and the entanglement part between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is untangled, and the surface texture with a puckered finish changes partially, making it difficult to obtain the desired surface texture with a puckered finish and texture. This phenomenon can be suppressed.

[0041] The manufacturing method of the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn of the present invention is not limited as long as the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn defined in the present invention can be obtained. However, a method of mixing and interlacing a false-twisted yarn obtained by applying false twist to the raw yarn A for the polyester yarn A and a drawn yarn obtained by drawing the raw yarn B for the polyester yarn B is preferably mentioned. As such raw yarns for the polyester yarns A and B, highly oriented undrawn polyester yarns are preferably used. The preferred elongation of such highly oriented undrawn yarns is each 100% or more and 180% or less, and more preferably 120% or more and 160% or less. When the raw yarn has sufficient elongation, in the case of a crimped yarn, the stretchability and heat setting property are improved, and good production efficiency can be obtained during false twisting. In the case of a non-crimped yarn, the adjustment range of the draw ratio and the heat setting temperature is widened, and a yarn with low boiling shrinkage and a soft texture can be obtained compared to commercially available drawn yarns.

[0042] The raw yarn of the polyester yarn A and the raw yarn of the polyester yarn B used for the polyester mixed-textured interlaced yarn preferably each have a tensile strength of 1.3 cN / dtex or more. By setting the tensile strength to 1.3 cN / dtex or more, it becomes possible to adapt to all general clothing. More preferably, it is 1.5 cN / dtex or more.

[0043] As a preferred method for producing the polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention, using the highly oriented undrawn yarns of the above polyester as the base yarns of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B, the base yarn for the polyester yarn A is subjected to false twist crimping, and the base yarn for the polyester yarn B is subjected to stretching and heat treatment to reduce the boiling water shrinkage rate, and then the respective yarns are conjugate textured. At this time, it is preferable to pay attention to the polyester yarn B so that it is not overfed or loosened too much. Regarding the preferred overfeed rate, there is no limitation as long as the polyester conjugate textured yarn defined in the present invention can be obtained. As described above, in view of the number of entanglement points and the state of overfeed, the degree of loosening of each yarn may be appropriately adjusted.

[0044] The polyester conjugate textured yarn of the present invention thus obtained generates a yarn length difference due to the shrinkage difference between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B when passing through a heat history such as heat treatment during post-processing when the conjugate textured yarn after shrinkage expression, for example, after knitting, is post-processed into a product. Since the polyester yarns A and B after shrinkage no longer have the boiling water shrinkage rate before shrinkage, for convenience, the polyester yarns A and B after shrinkage are respectively referred to as polyester yarn a and polyester yarn b. After making it into a product, it is preferable that the yarn length difference between the polyester yarn a and the polyester yarn b of the polyester conjugate textured yarn contained in the knitted fabric is 2% or more. The yarn length difference is affected by the boiling water shrinkage rate difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn, the conjugate feed rate difference, and the conjugate texturing state. The larger the yarn length difference, the bulkier and more bulging the fabric obtained. However, if the yarn length difference is too large, it will cause a deterioration in the texture due to fuzzing and a deterioration in the fabric physical properties such as snagging and pilling, so an appropriate design is required. When the yarn length difference between the polyester yarn a and the polyester yarn b is 2% or more, the polyester yarn b constituting the sheath yarn floats on the surface of the knitted fabric, so an appropriate surface feeling with a ribbed texture and a cotton-like texture can be obtained. A more preferable yarn length difference is 3% or more. As the upper limit, it is preferably 10% or less, and more preferably 8% or less, from the viewpoint of deterioration in texture due to fuzzing and deterioration in fabric physical properties.

[0045] The polyester conjugate interlaced yarn of the present invention imparts an interlacing point not only to the interlacing points of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn constituting the conjugate interlaced yarn, but also independently to the crimped yarn constituting the core yarn, and widens the pitch between the interlacing portions of the crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn compared to general conjugate interlaced yarns, and makes the non-crimped yarn a low-boiling shrinkage type, so that a knitted fabric having a three-dimensional puckered surface feel and a cotton-like texture can be obtained.

[0046] Among them, it is preferable to use a knitted fabric containing 30% by mass or more of the above polyester conjugate interlaced yarn. In the present invention, by using 30% or more of the polyester conjugate interlaced yarn in the knitted fabric, the three-dimensional puckered surface feel and the cotton-like texture can be more significantly exhibited. The mixing ratio of the conjugate interlaced yarn in the preferable knitted fabric is 50% by mass or more. There is no particular limitation on the upper limit, but by setting it to 100% by mass, a knitted fabric with a more prominent three-dimensional puckered surface feel and cotton-like texture can be obtained.

[0047] Other fibers that can be used in the above knitted fabric preferably include polyester fiber, nylon fiber, acrylic fiber, rayon, cotton, hemp, wool, etc.

[0048] The structure constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited. The structure can be any of a circular knitted fabric's plain weave, interlock structure, smooth structure, warp knitted fabric's half structure, satin structure, jacquard structure, or their modified structures, depending on the intended use.

[0049] The knitted fabric of the present invention can also be subjected to raising processing. By performing raising processing, the single fibers of the convex portions of the uneven portions having a puckered surface feel are cut and stand up in a direction perpendicular to the fiber longitudinal direction, so that the three-dimensional puckered surface feel is further emphasized. Regardless of the type of raising processing, it can be subjected to card raising processing or buff raising processing, which are generally used for raising knitted fabrics.

[0050] The knitted fabric using the polyester blended and interlaced yarn of the present invention can be subjected to processing for adjusting the texture such as weight reduction processing in addition to physical processing such as raising processing, and functional processing such as water repellent processing, water absorption processing, antistatic processing, deodorizing processing, oil repellent processing, antibacterial processing, antiviral processing, and softening processing.

[0051] As described above, when the polyester blended and interlaced yarn of the present invention is commercialized into products such as knitted fabrics, shrinkage occurs due to the heat history during post-processing and the like, and a yarn length difference occurs. Therefore, for example, the polyester blended and interlaced yarn after the occurrence of the yarn length difference, such as the polyester blended and interlaced yarn from the knitted fabric which is the product, the polyester yarn strand a constituting the core yarn is a false-twist crimped yarn, the polyester yarn strand b constituting the sheath yarn is a flat yarn of multifilament, the yarn length difference between the polyester yarn strand a and the polyester yarn strand b is 2% or more, and the ratio of the number of entanglement parts at the entanglement part between the polyester yarn strand a and the polyester yarn strand b to the number of entanglement parts independently entering only the polyester yarn strand a is 1:3 to 1:20, which becomes a polyester blended and interlaced yarn.

Example

[0052] [Yarn fineness] The blended and interlaced yarn was wound 80 times into a ring shape with a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m), and the weight W was measured. The fineness of the yarn was calculated from the following formula. Yarn fineness (dtex)=W×100×1.111 [Yarn elongation] It was measured according to JIS L1013 Test Method for Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn (2010).

[0053] The gripping interval was 200 mm and the pulling speed was 200 mm / min. A load-elongation curve was obtained with a tensile testing machine (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), and the elongation at break was divided by the initial sample length to obtain the elongation.

[0054] [Single fiber fineness of yarn] Collect 10 cm of the polyester blend interlaced yarn, and extract one single fiber of the polyester yarn forming the sheath yarn and one single fiber of the polyester yarn forming the core yarn. Cut each single fiber of the core yarn and the sheath yarn at 1 cm intervals in the longitudinal direction to prepare 5 pieces each, observe the cross-section with a scanning electron microscope S-3400N (manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.), measure the fiber diameter at 5 points, and use the average fiber diameter of these 5 points as μ. Let the fiber specific gravity be ρ, and calculate the single fiber fineness from the following formula. The fiber specific gravity used was 1.38, the specific gravity of polyester. Single fiber fineness (dtex) = ρυ 2 / 141.6 Total fineness (dtex) = Single fiber fineness (dtex) × H [Tensile strength and elongation of the yarn] Measured in accordance with JIS L1013 Test Methods for Chemical Fiber Filament Yarns (2010).

[0055] The gripping interval was 200 mm and the pulling speed was 200 mm / min. Using a tensile testing machine (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), obtain the load-elongation curve, divide the load value at break by the initial fineness, and use this as the tensile strength. Divide the elongation at break by the initial sample length and use this as the elongation.

[0056] [Difference in boiling water shrinkage rate of the yarn] The crimped yarn and non-crimped yarn constituting the blend interlaced yarn were operated in the same manner as described in each example and comparative example, except that they were wound separately without applying interlaced blending. Each separately wound yarn was wound 10 times around a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, set on top of a measuring plate, apply a load of 1 / 10 g of the fineness (D) to the crimped yarn and measure the length L1 after 30 seconds, and apply a load of 1 / 30 g of the fineness (D) to the non-crimped yarn and measure the length L2 after 30 seconds. Next, wrap the yarn in gauze so that it does not become disordered after measurement, put it into boiling water at 100 °C, treat it for 30 minutes, then take out the yarn from the gauze and dry it at room temperature. Set the dried yarn on top of the measuring plate, apply the same load as before the heat treatment to the crimped yarn and non-crimped yarn, measure the lengths L3 and L4 after 30 seconds, and then calculate the boiling water shrinkage rate L5 of the crimped yarn and the boiling water shrinkage rate L6 of the non-crimped yarn from the following formula, and calculate the difference in boiling water shrinkage rate from the difference in boiling water shrinkage rate between the two yarns. Boiling water shrinkage rate L5(%) of the crimped yarn = (L1 - L3) / L1 Boiling water shrinkage rate L6(%) of the non - crimped yarn = (L2 - L4) / L2 Difference in boiling water shrinkage rate (%) = L5(%) - L6(%) [Ratio of the number of entanglement parts at the entanglement part of polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B to the number of entanglement parts independently possessed by only polyester yarn A] From the knitted fabric that has undergone dyeing and finishing, three 1 - m samples of the mixed - fiber entangled yarn were collected. Using a digital microscope VHX - 500 (manufactured by Keyence Corporation), from the end of the mixed - fiber entangled yarn, the number of entanglement parts between the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn that make up the mixed - fiber yarn and the number of entanglement parts that independently enter only the crimped yarn were measured. The average number A of entanglement parts between the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn per 1 m and the average number B of entanglement parts that independently enter only the crimped yarn were calculated. The ratio of the number of entanglement parts was taken using the average number A and the average number B, and the ratio of the average number B when the average number A was set to 1 was obtained as the ratio of the number of entanglement parts.

[0057] The distinction between the entanglement part of the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn and the entanglement part that independently enters only the crimped yarn was carried out as follows. When the entanglement parts of the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn exist densely, the entanglement parts that independently enter only the crimped yarn cannot be distinguished, and the entanglement parts that independently enter only the crimped yarn cannot be identified, it was judged as none.

[0058] Entanglement part of the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn: The part where the single fiber of the crimped yarn is wound around the yarn of the non - crimped yarn, and the part where the single fiber of the non - crimped yarn is wound around the yarn of the crimped yarn, etc., where entanglement is observed between at least a part of the crimped yarn and at least a part of the non - crimped yarn. It was regarded as the entanglement part of the crimped yarn and the non - crimped yarn.

[0059] Entanglement part that independently enters only the crimped yarn: The part where the single fibers of the crimped yarn are wound around and converge, and no entanglement is observed with the non - crimped yarn. It was regarded as the entanglement part that independently enters only the crimped yarn.

[0060] Samples were similarly taken for the polyester blend interlaced yarn before blending and interlacing and before knitting, and the ratio of the number of interlaced parts between polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B to the number of interlaced parts independently possessed by only polyester yarn A was measured. However, since it was confirmed that there was no substantial difference between the ratio of the number of interlaced parts between polyester yarn a and polyester yarn b sampled and measured from the fabric and the ratio of the number of interlaced parts independently entering only polyester yarn a, the values of the ratio of the number of interlaced parts between polyester yarn a and polyester yarn b sampled and measured from the fabric and the ratio of the number of interlaced parts independently entering only polyester yarn a were described as the ratio of the number of interlaced parts in the table below.

[0061] [Yarn length difference of the blend interlaced yarns constituting the fabric] The dyed and finished fabric was cut into 5 cm squares, and one polyester blend interlaced yarn was sampled from the warp or weft direction. The sampled blend interlaced yarn was decomposed, and 5 single fibers of the polyester yarn constituting the sheath yarn and 5 single fibers of the polyester yarn constituting the core yarn were extracted. In the case of a napped fabric, if possible, it was evaluated with the fabric before napping. If it was not possible to evaluate with the fabric before napping, samples were taken from the fabric with single fiber breakage due to napping treatment or the like. In that case, polyester blend interlaced yarns were sampled until polyester blend interlaced yarns that could be evaluated (it was possible to extract 5 single fibers without yarn breakage from each of the core yarn and the sheath yarn) were found, and they were used. If polyester blend interlaced yarns that could be evaluated could not be found, the dyed and finished fabric was cut into 3 cm squares, and polyester blend interlaced yarns were sampled until polyester blend interlaced yarns that could be evaluated were found, and they were used.

[0062] The extracted single fibers were placed on a glass plate, a small amount of glycerin was dropped, the crimp formed from the woven or knitted structure was stretched, and an initial load of 1 / 30 g of the single fiber fineness (d) was applied to measure the yarn length. The average yarn length of 5 single fibers of the polyester yarn constituting the sheath yarn was designated as L1, and the average yarn length of 5 single fibers of the polyester yarn constituting the core yarn was designated as L2, and the yarn length difference was calculated from the following formula. Yarn length difference (%) = 〔(L1 - L2) / L2〕×100 [Denier per filament and total denier of the conjugated and entangled yarns constituting the knitted fabric] One polyester conjugated and entangled yarn was collected at regular intervals (5 cm sampled based on the knitted fabric base) from the warp or weft direction of the knitted fabric that had undergone dyeing and finishing processes. The collected polyester conjugated and entangled yarn was decomposed, and one single fiber of the polyester yarn b constituting the sheath yarn and one single fiber of the polyester yarn a constituting the core yarn were extracted. Each single fiber of the core yarn and sheath yarn was cut at 1 cm intervals in the longitudinal direction, and five pieces were prepared each. The cross-section was observed with a scanning electron microscope S-3400N (manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.), and the fiber diameter was measured at five points. The average fiber diameter of these five points was designated as μ. Using the fiber specific gravity as ρ, the denier per filament was calculated from the following formula. Next, one polyester conjugated and entangled yarn was extracted from the woven or knitted fabric, and the number of single fibers H of the polyester yarn b constituting the sheath yarn and the polyester yarn a constituting the core yarn was counted, and the total denier was calculated from the following formula. The fiber specific gravity used was 1.38, the specific gravity of polyester. Denier per filament (dtex) = ρυ 2 / 141.6 Total denier (dtex) = Denier per filament (dtex) × H [Surface feel and texture of the fabric] Regarding the evaluation of the surface feel and texture of the fabric, 10 experienced persons visually evaluated them using the following four-level judgment method. ◎ and ○ were regarded as passing.

[0063] Surface feel of the fabric ◎: The puckered and three-dimensional surface feel is prominent. ○: It has a puckered and three-dimensional surface feel. △: It seems to have a puckered and three-dimensional surface feel. ×: It has a uniform surface feel that is not puckered and three-dimensional.

[0064] Texture (cotton-like touch) ◎: A smooth and strong gloss like fluff is felt. ○: A smooth gloss like fluff is felt. △: It feels like there is a smooth gloss like fluff. ×: A smooth gloss like fluff cannot be felt. A bulky feeling is felt.

[0065] [Stretchability Evaluation] Regarding the evaluation of stretchability, 10 experts evaluated it by the following four-level judgment method. ◎ and ○ were regarded as passing. ◎: When the fabric is stretched, it is felt that there is elongation and a strong sense of repulsion. ○: When the fabric is stretched, it is felt that there is elongation and a sense of repulsion. △: When the fabric is stretched, it seems that there is elongation and a sense of repulsion. ×: When the fabric is stretched, no elongation and sense of repulsion are felt.

[0066] [Example 1] The original yarn A, a 130 dtex 36 f high-orientation undrawn polyester (PET) yarn produced at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (titanium oxide content 3.0 wt%, tensile strength 2.35 cN / dtex, elongation 154.1%), and the original yarn B, a 130 dtex 36 f high-orientation undrawn polyester (PET) yarn B produced at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (titanium oxide content 3.0 wt%, tensile strength 2.35 cN / dtex, elongation 154.1%) were drawn, false-twisted, and intermingled and mixed according to the manufacturing process of FIG. 1 under the conditions of Table 1 to obtain an intermingled and mixed yarn with a total fineness of 157 dtex 72 f (elongation 24.3%).

[0067] Figure 1 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred manufacturing method of the conjugate textured yarn of the present invention. Also, in Example 1, it was manufactured under the manufacturing process described in Figure 1 and the drawing and texturing and interlacing conjugate fiber conditions described in Table 1. First, the original yarn A1, which is a polyester high-oriented undrawn yarn of yarn A, passes through the guide 2, is sent out by the first feed roller 3, and undergoes texturing between the first feed roller 3 and the second feed roller 6 via the heater 4 and the twister 5, and is sent out as the textured yarn 7. On the other hand, the original yarn B8, which is a polyester high-oriented undrawn yarn of yarn B, passes through the guide 9, is sent out by the third feed roller 10, and undergoes drawing and heat setting between the third feed roller 10 and the fourth feed roller 12 via the heater 11, and is sent out as the drawn yarn 13. Between each feed roller that has sent out the textured yarn 7 and the drawn yarn 13 and the fifth feed roller 15, the textured yarn 7 and the drawn yarn 13 are conjugated and interlaced by the interlace nozzle 14, are sent out as the polyester conjugated interlaced yarn 16, and are wound by the winding roller 17. The drawing ratio between the first feed roller 3 and the second feed roller 6 is 1.70 times, the temperature of the heater 4 is 190°C, the type of the twister 5 is the friction type, the drawing ratio between the third feed roller 10 and the fourth feed roller 12 is 1.68 times, the temperature of the heater 11 is 200°C, the feed rate between the second feed roller and the fifth feed roller is 3.3%, the feed rate between the fourth feed roller and the fifth feed roller is 0.3%, and it was manufactured under the condition that the air pressure of the interlace nozzle 14 is 0.25 MPa.

[0068] The boiling water shrinkage rate of the false-twisted yarn 7 was 5.5%, and that of the drawn yarn 13 was 1.8%. The difference in boiling water shrinkage rate was 3.7%. The obtained polyester conjugate interlaced yarn was used to produce a plain jersey fabric with 38 wales / 2.54 cm and 50 courses / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, dyed at a temperature of 130 °C for 30 minutes using disperse dye Navy Blue SGL, and finished and set according to a conventional method. The finishing set temperature was carried out at 170 °C. The ratio of the number of entanglement parts of the conjugate interlaced yarn decomposed from the obtained fabric was 1:8, the yarn length difference was 2.8%, the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn a was 2.2 dtex, and the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn b was 2.2 dtex. The obtained fabric had a puckered and three-dimensional surface feel, a smooth and nummy feel like fluff, and stretchability that felt elongation and resilience when the fabric was stretched.

[0069] [Example 2] Original yarn A, a side-by-side type polyester high-oriented undrawn yarn with 132 dtex and 48 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min (titanium oxide content: 0.1 wt%, tensile strength: 2.38 cN / dtex, elongation: 145.7%), and original yarn B, a polyester (PET) high-oriented undrawn yarn with 130 dtex and 36 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (titanium oxide content: 3.0 wt%, tensile strength: 2.35 cN / dtex, elongation: 154.1%) were drawn, false-twisted, and intermingled and mixed according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a mixed and intermingled yarn with a total fineness of 161 dtex and 84 filaments (elongation: 26.6%). The boiling water shrinkage rate of the false-twisted yarn 7 was 6.1%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the drawn yarn 13 was 1.8%, resulting in a boiling water shrinkage rate difference of 4.3%. The obtained polyester mixed and intermingled yarn was used to produce a knitted fabric with 38 wales / 2.54 cm and 50 courses / 2.54 cm. Through the processing steps under the same conditions as in Example 1, the physical properties were evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The ratio of the number of intermingled parts of the polyester mixed and intermingled yarn decomposed from the obtained knitted fabric was 1:7, the yarn length difference was 3.6%, the single fiber fineness of polyester yarn a was 1.7 dtex, and the single fiber fineness of polyester yarn b was 2.3 dtex. The obtained knitted fabric had a distinct puckered texture and a three-dimensional surface feel, with a smooth and strong nubby feel like fluff. When the knitted fabric was stretched, stretchability with elongation and a strong sense of repulsion were obtained.

[0070] [Comparative Example 1] Highly oriented undrawn polyester (PET) yarn A with a fineness of 130 dtex and 36 filaments, produced at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (titanium oxide content: 3.0 wt%, tensile strength: 2.35 cN / dtex, elongation: 154.1%) and highly oriented undrawn polyester (PET) yarn B with a fineness of 130 dtex and 36 filaments, produced at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (titanium oxide content: 3.0 wt%, tensile strength: 2.35 cN / dtex, elongation: 154.1%) were drawn, false-twisted, and intermingled and mixed according to the manufacturing process shown in Fig. 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a mixed and intermingled yarn with a total fineness of 158 dtex and 72 filaments (elongation: 23.9%). The boiling water shrinkage rate of the false-twisted yarn 7 was 5.5%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the drawn yarn 13 was 1.8%, resulting in a difference in boiling water shrinkage rate of 3.7%. The obtained polyester mixed and intermingled yarn was used to produce a plain jersey fabric with 38 picks / 2.54 cm and 50 courses / 2.54 cm. Through a processing step under the same conditions as in Example 1, the physical properties were evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The mixed and intermingled yarn decomposed from the obtained fabric had no intermingling that independently entered yarn b, and only the intermingled part between polyester yarn a and polyester yarn b could be confirmed. The yarn length difference, which could not be expressed as a ratio of the number of intermingled parts, was 1.8%. The single fiber fineness of polyester yarn a was 2.2 dtex, and the single fiber fineness of polyester yarn b was 2.2 dtex. The obtained fabric had a pique texture and a non-stereoscopic, uniform surface feel. It did not feel the smooth numi like hairiness, had a plump texture, and had a stretchiness such that it felt like there was elongation and a sense of resilience when the fabric was stretched.

[0071] [Comparative Example 2] Side-by-side type polyester high-oriented undrawn yarn A (132 dtex, 48 f, titanium oxide content 0.1 wt%, tensile strength 2.38 cN / dtex, elongation 145.7%) produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min and polyester drawn yarn A (84 dtex, 36 f, titanium oxide content 3.0 wt%, tensile strength 4.10 cN / dtex, elongation 38.0%) produced by drawing an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 800 m / min were subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process of Fig. 1 to obtain a mixed fiber interlaced yarn with a total fineness of 164 dtex and 84 f (elongation 26.8%). The boiling water shrinkage rate of the false-twisted yarn 7 was 5.5%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the drawn yarn 13 was 8.9%, resulting in a boiling water shrinkage rate difference of -3.4%. The obtained polyester mixed fiber interlaced yarn was used to produce a knitted fabric of tenjiku maru knitting with 38 wales / 2.54 cm and 50 courses / 2.54 cm. Through the processing steps under the same conditions as in Example 2, the physical properties were evaluated in the same manner as in Example 2. The ratio of the number of interlaced parts of the mixed fiber interlaced yarn decomposed from the obtained knitted fabric was 1:7, the yarn length difference was -1.7%, the single fiber fineness of polyester yarn a was 1.7 dtex, and the single fiber fineness of polyester yarn b was 2.5 dtex. The obtained knitted fabric had a shibo texture and a non-stereoscopic, uniform surface feel. No smooth numeri like hairiness was felt, and it had a plump texture. It had stretchability with elongation and a sense of resilience when the fabric was stretched.

[0072]

Table 1

[0073]

Table 2

Explanation of Symbols

[0074] 1: Raw yarn A 2: Guide 3: First feed roller 4: Heater 5: Twister 6: Second feed roller 7: False-twisted yarn 8: Raw yarn B 9: Guide 10: Third feed roller 11: Heater 12: Fourth feed roller 13: Drafted yarn 14: Interlace nozzle 15: Fifth feed roller 16: Polyester blended interlaced yarn 17: Take-up roller 21: Polyester yarn A 22: Polyester yarn B 23: Interlaced part of polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B 24: Interlaced part independently possessed only by polyester yarn A

Claims

1. A polyester conjugate fiber yarn a constituting a core yarn is a false-twist textured yarn, a polyester fiber yarn b constituting a sheath yarn is a multi-filament flat yarn, a yarn length difference between the polyester fiber yarn a and the polyester fiber yarn b is 2% or more and 10% or less, and a ratio of the number of entanglement parts between the polyester fiber yarn a and the polyester fiber yarn b to the number of entanglement parts independently possessed by only the polyester fiber yarn a is 1:3 to 1:20, a polyester conjugated and entangled fiber.

2. The polyester conjugated and entangled fiber according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fiber yarn a is a conjugate fiber by side-by-side type composite.

3. The polyester conjugated and entangled fiber according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the polyester fiber yarn a and the polyester fiber yarn b contains 0.2 to 5% by weight of an inorganic oxide.

4. A knitted fabric containing 30% by mass or more of the polyester conjugated and entangled fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. A method for manufacturing the knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein a polyester fiber yarn A constituting a core yarn is a false-twist textured yarn, a polyester fiber yarn B constituting a sheath yarn is a multi-filament flat yarn, a boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester fiber yarn B is 2% or more lower than that of the polyester fiber yarn A, and a ratio of the number of entanglement parts between the polyester fiber yarn A and the polyester fiber yarn B to the number of entanglement parts independently possessed by only the polyester fiber yarn A is 1:3 to 1:20, knitting and heat-treating using a polyester conjugated and entangled fiber yarn raw material, a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric.

6. The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyester fiber yarn B is 2% or less.

7. The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to claim 5 or 6, wherein a single fiber fineness of the polyester fiber yarn A and the polyester fiber yarn B is 1 dtex or more.

8. The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein the polyester conjugated and entangled fiber yarn raw material is entangled such that the polyester fiber yarn A clings to the polyester fiber yarn B.

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