Cosmetic composition with metallic effect

Abstract

To provide a cosmetic composition that makes it possible to obtain a color effect that is an aqueous metallic or "mirror" effect, while providing a long-retention, fresh and comfortable texture.SOLUTION: A cosmetic composition includes, in a continuous aqueous phase, at least one coloring agent chosen from hydrophobic treated nacres, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and water. Also provided are a method for preparing the cosmetic composition, and a method for makeup of keratin materials using the same.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one colorant selected from hydrophobically treated nacre, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and water in a continuous aqueous phase. The present invention also relates to a method for preparing such a cosmetic composition, a method for the makeup of keratin materials using the same, and the use of such a cosmetic composition for obtaining an aqueous metallic effect or "mirror effect" on keratin materials.

Background Art

[0002] Makeup or treatment products for keratin materials, such as foundations, brushes, or eyeshadows, generally have functions that provide color, a matte finish, and even coverage.

[0003] Generally, these makeup products mainly consist of a continuous oily phase, and the quality of the fillers and colorants is adjusted to obtain the desired makeup effects: color, coverage, matting, etc.

[0004] Furthermore, metallic luster, nacre luster, or spangle effects are strongly demanded for makeup products. To obtain such color effects, it is known to use pigments having optical effects, such as nacre or other interference pigments.

[0005] To improve these dispersions in products with a continuous oily phase, it is known to treat the surface of the colorant with a hydrophobic coating, ensuring the most homogeneous color and optical effects possible, and in particular avoiding highlight areas.

[0006] Thus, due to the resulting color effects, saturated colors and satin metallic effects are enhanced, but these formulations with a continuous oily phase often result in a heavy feeling and a sticky effect during application that is unpleasant for the user.

[0007] Formulations with a continuous aqueous phase are very well received for a part of them, with their fresh, light and non-greasy sensory appearance. These are most often used in care products. In fact, colored products obtained from formulations with a continuous aqueous phase are generally insufficient to replace makeup products. The colors lack intensity and do not exhibit good retention over time. In addition, it is impossible to obtain special color effects, such as an aqueous metallic effect or a "mirror effect" using such galleus.

[0008] Special colorants, such as pigments or nacre, do not disperse uniformly in the aqueous phase and form aggregates that can pose stability problems. As a result, most of the makeup products on the current market do not have a continuous aqueous phase.

[0009] However, the search continues for fresh and pleasant makeup compositions having a strong color effect with saturated colors, such as an aqueous metallic effect or a "mirror effect", and good retention of said metallic effect over time.

[0010] The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that a composition having such properties that do not appear to match at first glance can be obtained using a hydrophobically treated nacre in a continuous hydrophilic phase. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED BY THE INVENTION

[0011] The composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a novel and long-lasting, fresh and pleasant texture while obtaining a color effect that is an aqueous metallic or "mirror effect". MEANS FOR SOLVING THE PROBLEM

[0012] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides, in a continuous aqueous phase, - at least one colorant selected from hydrophobically treated nacre; - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; - water Relates to a cosmetic composition comprising.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the invention also relates to a method for preparing such a composition, comprising: - mixing a hydrophilic gelling agent with water and optionally a hydrocarbon and / or silicone emulsifier, a water retention agent, and a water-soluble solvent; - optionally adding a film-forming agent, a silicone and / or hydrocarbon emulsifier, and additives; - adding a hydrophobized nacre layer and optionally a hydrophobized pigment; - optionally adjusting the pH Relates to a method comprising.

[0014] According to a third aspect, the invention also relates to a method for making up a keratinous material, in particular the skin or lips, comprising applying the above composition to said keratinous material, in particular the skin of the lips.

[0015] Finally, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the above composition for forming a colored makeup on a keratinous material, in particular the skin of the lips, with an aqueous metallic effect or "mirror effect".

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0016] Therefore, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a continuous aqueous phase: - at least one colorant selected from hydrophobized nacre layers; - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and - water Relates to a cosmetic composition comprising.

[0017] Galenus The composition according to the invention has a continuous aqueous phase. Preferably, it is in the form of an aqueous gel or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0018] Hydrophobized nacre layer The hydrophobically treated nacre is present in the continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 16 to 35% by weight, preferably from 20 to 33% by weight, and more preferably, the content of the hydrophobically treated nacre is approximately 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The presence of these nacres in the continuous aqueous phase advantageously enables the obtaining of a novel color effect of the aqueous metallic effect type.

[0020] This metallic effect is obtained when the content of the hydrophobically treated nacre ranges from 16 to 35%. Below this content, the desired metallic color effect is not sufficiently visible. Above this amount, it is very prominent and very shiny.

[0021] The nacre can be selected from those conventionally present in makeup products, for example, nacres based on mica / titanium dioxide (e.g., DK PEARL SILVER 310 sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE), nacres based on mica / titanium dioxide / iron oxide (e.g., DK PEARL ORANGE GOLD, DK PEARL DARK RED, or DK PEARL GOLD sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE), nacres based on mica / iron oxide (e.g., DK PEAR BRONZE sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE), nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, and nacres based on synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE (registered trademark) manufactured by MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS (registered trademark) manufactured by ENGELHARD), or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR (registered trademark) manufactured by MERCK).

[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, the nacre is selected from nacres based on mica / titanium dioxide, nacres based on mica / titanium dioxide / iron oxide, nacres based on mica / iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0023] According to one embodiment, the nacre layer is a hydrophobically treated nacre layer.

[0024] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic treatment is a treatment with a metal soap.

[0025] In fact, the nacre layer is at least partially, preferably completely, surface-treated with a metal soap.

[0026] Typically, the metal soap is a fatty acid soap having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0027] The metal of the metal soap is preferably selected from zinc or magnesium.

[0028] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the metal soap is selected from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Preferably, the metal soap is magnesium stearate.

[0030] Hydrophilic gelling agent The continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0031] A gelling agent means a compound that, in the presence of a solvent, forms more or less strong intermolecular bonds, thereby inducing a three-dimensional network that freezes the said solvent.

[0032] The gelling agent is advantageously an aqueous phase gelling agent that enables the hydrophobically treated nacre layer to be dispersed in the aqueous phase and to be retained in the suspension.

[0033] The gelling agent can be selected from polysaccharides, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, and derivatives thereof.

[0034] Polysaccharides include: - Leachates of microorganisms, for example xanthan gum and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the trade name Rheosan by Rhodia Chimie, the products sold under the trade name KELTROL® CG-SFT (INCI: xanthan gum) by CP Kelco, or the product SAFIC CARE T XCG (INCI: locust bean gum & xanthan gum) manufactured by SAFIC ALCAN, gellan gum sold under the trade name Kelcogel F by NUTRASWEET-KELCO, or iota-carrageenan sold under the trade name Seaspen PF 357 or Viscarin SD 389 by FMC, or sclerotium gum (or sclerotium rolfssii gum) manufactured by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfissii and available under the name Naturajel® from DIY Cosmetics or under the name Amigel® from Alban Muller; - Plant extracts, for example polysaccharides of tremella fuciformis (INCI: tremella fuciformis polysaccharide), such as the products sold under the trade name Tremoist™-TP by Nippon Fine Chemical; - Algal extracts, for example agar, carrageenan (iota, kappa, lambda), such as the products sold under the trade name Viscarin PC 209 (INCI: carrageenan) by FMC BioPolymer, and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the trade name Sucraclear HC-31 (INCI: cellulose gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, sucrose) by ALCHEMY ingredients, alginates, especially Na or Ca; - And mixtures thereof.

[0035] The polyacrylate contains the following: - Polyacrylic acid polymers, such as Carbopol, for example, those sold under the trade name Carbopol Ultrez 10 (INCI: Carbomer) by Lubrizol or Gattefosse France; - Crosslinked methyl acrylate and behenyl methacrylate 25 EO polyoxyethylene polymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Copolymer), for example, those sold under the trade name Novethix L-10 Polymer by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Rheostyl (trademark) 90N manufactured by Arkema, or Aculyn (trademark) 28 manufactured by Dow Chemical.

[0036] Preferably, the gelling agent is selected from one of polysaccharides, such as microbial extracts, or plant extract polysaccharides, polyacrylic acid polymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0037] More preferably, the gelling agent is selected from one of Carbomer, xanthan gum, polysaccharides of tremella fuciformis, or mixtures thereof.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention contains a single aqueous phase gelling agent, preferably Carbomer.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the gelling agent may have a content in the range of 0.05 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt%, and more preferably 0.3 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention contains an aqueous phase containing water.

[0041] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains 30 to 70 wt% water, preferably 40 to 60 wt%, and more preferably approximately 50 wt% water based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The water content of the composition according to the present invention advantageously imparts an immediate fresh effect to the cosmetic composition. When applied, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is light and has no feeling of heaviness or stickiness. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a fresh and pleasant makeup cosmetic composition.

[0043] Water-soluble solvent The composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0044] As used herein, "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water is more than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0045] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be volatile.

[0046] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones, and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0047] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

[0048] Typically, the monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms is present in a content in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] The introduction of the monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms facilitates and accelerates the drying of the composition.

[0050] Water retention agent The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one water retention agent.

[0051] The water retention agent particularly includes polyols.

[0052] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention further comprises a water retention agent selected from polyols.

[0053] Polyol means any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxy groups (-OH) in its structure. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 °C).

[0054] By way of example, polyols suitable for use in the composition can be selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycols, and / or sorbitol units.

[0055] Preferably, the water retention agent is selected from glycerol and butylene glycol.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably approximately 6% by weight, of water retention agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Pigment The cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises in its aqueous phase at least one other colorant selected from hydrophobized pigments, the content of hydrophobized pigments being less than 1.5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Advantageously, the Applicant has demonstrated that it is possible to introduce hydrophobized pigments into the composition in the continuous aqueous phase according to the present invention, at a content of less than 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to enhance the shine and color effect and prevent the color from deteriorating without destabilizing the composition. More particularly, the Applicant has shown that it is possible to obtain a gel of carbomer containing iron oxide in order to provide color without destabilizing the gel.

[0059] According to one embodiment, the composition does not contain a hydrophobically treated pigment.

[0060] "Pigment" should be understood to mean mineral or organic white or colored particles insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.

[0061] The pigment can be white or colored and can be mineral and / or organic.

[0062] The pigment can be an organic pigment. The organic pigment can be selected from metal complex type nitroso, nitro, azo compounds, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, and phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.

[0063] One or more organic pigments can be selected, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments systematized in the Color Index under the arrangement numbers of CI42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments systematized in the Color Index under the arrangement numbers of CI11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments systematized in the Color Index under the arrangement numbers of CI61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments systematized in the Color Index under the arrangement numbers of CI11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments systematized in the Color Index under the arrangement numbers of CI12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives, as described in French Patent Invention No. 2679771 (FR2679771).

[0064] These pigments can also be formed from composite pigments, as described in European Patent No. 1184426 (EP1184426). These composite pigments are particularly composed of particles having an inorganic core and can be at least partially coated with at least one binder that ensures the binding of the organic pigment and the organic pigment onto the core.

[0065] The pigment can also be a lake. As used herein, a lake means an insoluble dye absorbed by insoluble particles, and thus an assembly that remains insoluble during use. By way of example, lakes include products known under the following names: D&C Red7 (CI15850:1).

[0066] The pigment can be a mineral pigment. A mineral pigment means any pigment corresponding to the definition described in the chapter on inorganic pigments in the Ullmann Encyclopaedia. The mineral pigments used in the present invention include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and metal powders such as ferric blue, titanium dioxide, aluminum powder, and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: TiCO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, Ti2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with ZnS.

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment is a mineral pigment, such as iron oxide, preferably black iron oxide.

[0068] The size of the pigment used in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, more preferably between 30 nm and 1 μm.

[0069] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic treatment of the pigment is a metal soap treatment.

[0070] In fact, the pigment is at least partially, preferably completely, surface-treated with a metal soap.

[0071] Typically, the metal soap is a fatty acid soap having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0072] The metal of the metal soap is preferably selected from zinc or magnesium.

[0073] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the metal soap is selected from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Preferably, the metal soap is magnesium stearate.

[0075] Filler The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one filler. These fillers in particular help to improve the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0076] Fillers can be mineral or organic, of any shape, platelets, spheres, or oblong, and can be in any crystallographic form (e.g., layered, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). These include talc, mica, mica surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, cellulose, cellulose surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, silica, silica surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide powder (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine, and polyethylene, polymer powder of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, e.g., polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, as an example, Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer (Polytrap® from DOWSIL), and microspheres of silicone resin (e.g., Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g., zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the filler is mica hydrophobic-treated with a metal soap, preferably a fatty acid soap having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metal soap is preferably zinc or magnesium.

[0078] By way of example, this can be MICA SX sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE.

[0079] Film-forming agent The composition according to the present invention further comprises a film-forming agent, in particular a film-forming polymer.

[0080] According to a first embodiment, the film-forming polymer can be present in the composition of the present invention in the form of particles in a dispersion of the aqueous phase. Film-forming polymers that can be dispersed in the aqueous phase are generally referred to as latexes or pseudo-latexes. Techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0081] As the film-forming polymer dispersible in the aqueous phase, or the aqueous dispersion of the film-forming polymer, acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1070 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1090 (registered trademark), Neocryl BT-62 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1079 (registered trademark), and Neocryl A-523 (registered trademark) by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 (registered trademark) by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD (registered trademark) and Daitosol 5000 SJ (registered trademark) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 (registered trademark) by Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by ROHM & HAAS, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trademark JONCRYL (registered trademark) by JOHNSON POLYMER, or aqueous dispersions of polyurethanes sold under the names Neorez R-981 (registered trademark) and Neorez R-974 (registered trademark) by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-410 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-425 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-450 (registered trademark), Sancure 875 (registered trademark), Sancure 861 (registered trademark), Sancure 878 (registered trademark), and Sancure 2060 (registered trademark) by GOODRICH, Impranil 85 (registered trademark) by BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 (registered trademark) by HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the trademark Eastman AQ (registered trademark) by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions, for example, Mexomere PAM (registered trademark) manufactured by CHLMEX, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0082] According to a second embodiment, the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and can be present in the continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0083] According to the third embodiment, the film-forming polymer can be a polymer soluble in a liquid fat phase containing an oil or an organic solvent, so the film-forming polymer is called a lipophilic (liposoluble or lipid-dispersible) film-forming polymer.

[0084] Examples of liposoluble polymers include vinyl ester copolymers (vinyl groups directly bonded to the oxygen atoms of ester groups, and vinyl esters having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group), as well as vinyl esters (different from the existing vinyl esters), α-olefins (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), alkyl vinyl ethers (the alkyl groups of which contain 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or allyl or methallyl esters (having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group), and at least one other monomer that can be.

[0085] These polymers can be crosslinked using a crosslinking agent that can be of either vinyl type or allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyloctanedioate, divinyldodecanedioate, and divinyloctadecanedioate.

[0086] Examples of these copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyldimethyl-2,2 octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyldimethyl-2,2 pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyldimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyldimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyldimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / vinyl octadecyl ether crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.

[0087] The film-forming lipophilic polymers may also include lipophilic copolymers, in particular, those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms, or alkyl acrylates or alkyl methacrylates, and allyl groups having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0088] Such lipophilic copolymers can be selected from polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, copolymers of diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, poly(stearyl (meth)acrylate), polyvinyl laurate, copolymers of poly(lauryl (meth)acrylate), and these poly(meth)acrylic acid esters can be crosslinked using methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0089] The fat-soluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in French Patent Application Publication No. 2232303, but they can have a weight-average molecular weight in the range of 2,000 to 500,000, preferably 4,000 to 200,000.

[0090] Fat-soluble homopolymers are also included, in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and allyl groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0091] Examples of fat-soluble homopolymers include, in particular, vinyl laurate and lauryl (meth)acrylate, and these (meth)acrylate esters can be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0092] The film-forming fat-soluble polymers that can be used in the present invention also include polyalkylenes, in particular C2-C20 alkene copolymers, such as polybutene, alkyl celluloses having linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups of C1-C8, such as ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone (VP), in particular copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and C2-C40, preferably C3-C20 alkenes. As examples, the VP copolymers that can be used in the present invention include copolymers, VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) butyl, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, and VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

[0093] Also included are generally silicone resins that are soluble or swellable in silicone oil and are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The naming of silicone resins is known by the name "MDTQ" and is a resin described as a function of the different siloxane monomer units contained therein, and each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizes the type of unit.

[0094] As an example, commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins may include those sold by Wacker Chemie AG under the reference number of Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, and those sold by SHIN-ETSU under the reference number of KR-220L.

[0095] Siloxysilicic acid resins include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (TMS) resins, for example, those sold by General Electric under the reference number of SR1000, or those sold by Wacker Chemie AG under the reference number of Belsil TMS 803. Also included are trimethylsiloxysilicic acid resins commercially available in solvents such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu, DOWSIL (trademark) RSN-0749, and DOWSIL (trademark) 593 Fluid by DOWSIL. Also included is an aqueous dispersion of a trimethylsiloxysilicic acid resin sold by GRANT INDUSTRIES under the name GRANRESIN SIW-MQIZ (INCI: isododecane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (and) water (and) propanediol (and) decyl glucoside).

[0096] Also included are copolymers of silicone resins such as those described above with polydimethylsiloxane, for example, a pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymer sold by DOWSIL under the reference number of BIO-PSA and described in U.S. Patent No. 5,162,410, or a silicone copolymer derived from the reaction of a silicone resin such as those described above and a diorganosiloxane described in WO 2004 / 073626 pamphlet.

[0097] Also included is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer containing a dendrimer carbosiloxane structure grafted to a vinyl backbone, commercially available under the trade number of DOWSIL FA 4002 ID, or DOWSIL FA 4001 CM, or DOWSIL FA 4103 (aqueous dispersion).

[0098] Finally, it is possible to use polyorganosiloxane-type silicone polyamides described in US Patent Application Publication No. 5,874,069, US Patent Application Publication No. 5,919,441, US Patent Application Publication No. 6,051,216, and US Patent No. 5,981,680.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer is selected from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified polymers, preferably fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa, and / or polymers extracted from the seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii (e.g., Filmexel (registered trademark) sold by Silab).

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming agent is selected from film-forming polymers dispersible in an aqueous phase, preferably an aqueous dispersion of a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin sold under the name GRANRESIN SIW-MQIZ (INCI: isododecane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (and) water (and) propanediol (and) decyl glucoside) by GRANT INDUSTRIES, a lipophilic film-forming polymer, e.g., trimethylsiloxysilicic acid sold by Wacker Chemie AG under the trade number of Belsil TMS 803 dispersed in isododecane, an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer containing a dendrimer carbosiloxane structure grafted to a vinyl backbone, commercially available under the trade number of DOWSIL FA 4002 ID, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] According to one embodiment, the film-forming agent is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount between 5 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 10 and 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also provides long-term retention after application, thanks to the film-forming agent used, in addition to the metallic effect and the freshness and comfort of the application.

[0103] By long-term retention is meant that a cosmetic composition that does not fade or fades very slightly and does not lose or loses very slightly its homogeneity does not move or is not removed after a period of at least 3 hours 30 minutes, preferably at least 7 hours 30 minutes of application.

[0104] Oil phase The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil and at least one emulsifier and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the oil is selected from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is a volatile oil.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate upon contact with keratin fibers in less than 1 hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. One or more volatile organic solvents and the volatile oils of the present invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, and in particular have a vapor pressure other than zero at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 ~300 mmHg), in particular in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0108] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a volatile linear alkane, and a volatile silicone oil.

[0109] The volatile oil can be a hydrocarbon. The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oil having 7 to 16 carbon atoms particularly includes C8 - C16 branched alkanes, for example, C8 - C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names lsopars and Permetyls, C8 - C16 branched esters, for example, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. The volatile hydrocarbon oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and particularly isododecane.

[0110] The volatile oil can be a volatile linear alkane. According to one embodiment, the alkane suitable for the present invention can be a volatile linear alkane containing 7 to 14 carbon atoms. Such a volatile linear alkane can advantageously be of plant origin. Examples of alkanes suitable for the present invention include alkanes described in the patent application from Cognis, International Publication No. WO 2007 / 1068371 pamphlet, or International Publication No. WO 2008 / 155059 pamphlet (a mixture of other alkanes where at least one carbon is different). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example, linear alkanes suitable for the present invention can include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred mode, a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of International Publication No. WO 2008 / 15505 from Cognis is included. Also included is a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) sold by BASF under the name CETIOL ULTIMATE. Also included are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof, sold by Sasol under the reference numbers PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively. It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or, preferably, a mixture of at least two separate volatile linear alkanes that differ from each other by at least 1 in the carbon number n, especially by 1 or 2 in the carbon number from each other.

[0111] The volatile oil can be a volatile silicone oil, for example, a cyclic polysiloxane, a linear polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Linear volatile polysiloxanes include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and cyclopentasiloxane.

[0112] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in an amount in the range of 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The "non-volatile oil" means an oil that is retained on the keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0114] The non-volatile oil can be selected in particular from non-volatile fluorinated hydrocarbon oils / or silicone oils.

[0115] The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil can in particular include the following: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - Hydrocarbons of plant origin, such as C4 - C36, preferably C11 - C21 linear alkanes, for example, phytosqualane manufactured by SEPPIC or Emogreen L15 (C15 - 19 alkane), or, for example, phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate, and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular, where the fatty acid can have a chain bond that varies from C4 - C36, especially C18 - C36; these oils can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are, in particular, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, shea butter, alfalfa, safflower seed, acorn squash, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, kukui nut, passion flower - derived oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, rucola oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, amaranth oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flaxseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, malt oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, ginger oil, walnut oil, olive oil, matsuyoi oil, palm oil, croton tiglium seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, acorn squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example, those sold by STEARINERIES DUB0IS, or those sold by DYNAMIT NOBEL under the names MIGLYOL 810 (registered trademark), 812 (registered trademark), and 818 (registered trademark), - Synthetic esters having 10 - 40 carbon atoms; - Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1-COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms under the condition that R1 + R2 ≥ 10. The esters are particularly alcohol esters and fatty acid esters, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxyl esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate esters, particularly isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid alcohol or polyalcohol, decanoate esters or ricinoleic acid esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoate esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxyl esters, such as isostearyl lactate, distearyl malate, which can be selected from; - Polyol esters, and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - Dimer diol esters and dimer diacid esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and Lusplan DD-DA7 (registered trademark), sold by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004-175338, - Dimer diol and dimer diacid copolymer, and its esters, for example, dimer dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic acid copolymer, and its esters, as an example, Plandool-G, - Polyol and dimer diacid copolymer, and its esters, for example, Hailuscent ISDA, - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains with 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol (blatyloctanol), and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof, - Dialkyl carbonates, two alkyl chains that are the same or different, for example, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC (registered trademark) by COGNIS, - High molecular weight oils, particularly those with a molecular weight in the range of approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, particularly approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, particularly approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g / mol, and more specifically, varying from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g / mol, - Silicone oils, such as phenyl silicone, for example, BELSIL PDM 1000 (MM = 9000 g / mol) manufactured by WACIER. Other non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (PDMS having pendant and / or terminal alkyl or alkoxy groups at the ends of the silicon chains, each group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms), phenyl silicones, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethylicone, phenoltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyltrimethicone having a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, and mixtures thereof. - Fluorinated oils that can be used in the present invention, in particular, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, and fluorinated silicones described in European Patent Application Publication No. 847752.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains at least 5% by weight of non-volatile oil, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition does not contain non-volatile oil.

[0117] Advantageously, a composition with improved retention can be obtained with a non-volatile oil content of less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably a composition that does not contain non-volatile oil.

[0118] Emulsifier The emulsifier can be selected from hydrocarbon emulsifiers, silicone emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof.

[0119] The hydrocarbon emulsifier is - Fatty acid esters (especially acids with C8 - C24, preferably C16 - C22), and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol esters (which can have 1 - 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), for example, in particular, polysorbate 20 sold by CRODA under the trade name Tween20 (registered trademark), polysorbate 60 sold by CRODA under the trade name Tween60 (registered trademark) are included.

[0120] Among silicone emulsifiers, it is possible to use those named INCI PEG - 10 dimethicone, for example, those sold by DKSH France or Shin - Etsu Silicones under the name KF - 6017.

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier is selected from PEG - 10 dimethicone, polysorbate 20, or polysorbate 60, or a mixture thereof.

[0122] According to one embodiment, the emulsifier is present in an amount in the range of 0.05 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt%, and more preferably 0.3 to 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Aqueous metallic color effect The composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain an aqueous metallic color effect or "mirror effect" in a composition having a continuous aqueous phase.

[0124] The aqueous metallic color effect means an optical effect that gives a shiny and homogeneous effect to the color, or reflects light in a state that resembles the "mirror" effect but is not like spangles or satin, or exhibits "highlight points".

[0125] This optical effect is measurable and can be quantified according to any method known to those skilled in the art.

[0126] Typically, the optical effects are measurable and can be quantified according to methods known to those skilled in the art, such as the specular reflection method.

[0127] By this method, it is possible to measure the specular integral and the W visual, and to quantify and evaluate the appearance in terms of gloss, color, and light scattering.

[0128] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a specular integral of 6000 or more and a W visual of 8 or more.

[0129] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a specular integral of 7000 or more and a W visual of 9 or more.

[0130] A specular integral of 6000 or more and a W visual of 8 or more characterize the metallic effect required in the context of the present invention, in other words the aqueous metallic effect, or the "mirror effect".

[0131] The metallic effect obtained according to the present invention is different from the gloss effect, the satin effect, or the "highlight point" effect.

[0132] Typically, a specular integral approximately equal to 5000, typically between 4500 and 5500, and a W visual effect between 4 and 7, approximately 6, are characteristic of the gloss effect.

[0133] Similarly, a specular integral of less than 2500 and a W visual of 3 or less are characteristic of the satin effect.

[0134] Additive The composition according to the invention can contain other components, provided that they do not prevent the desired properties of the composition. These other components can be, for example, preservatives, pH regulators such as citric acid, sodium hydroxide or arginine, antibacterial agents, fragrances, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Preparation method The invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising: - mixing a hydrophilic gelling agent with water and optionally a hydrocarbon and / or silicone emulsifier, a water-retaining agent, and a water-soluble solvent; - optionally adding a film-forming agent, a silicone and / or hydrocarbon emulsifier, and additives; - adding a hydrophobized nacreous layer and optionally a hydrophobized pigment; - optionally adjusting the pH The method is as described above.

[0136] Method for making up keratinous substances The invention also relates to a method for making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the eyelids, which consists in applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratinous substances, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the eyelids.

[0137] In a preferred embodiment, the makeup method is a method for making up the eyelids.

[0138] Cosmetic use The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for forming a colored makeup with an aqueous metallic effect on keratinous substances, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the eyelids.

Examples

[0139] [Example 1] Eye shadow An eye shadow (OAP1) having the composition shown in Table 1 below was prepared.

[0140]

Table 1

[0141] Water, carbomer, polysorbate 20, glycerin, butylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol, and chlorphenesin were mixed with a propeller stirrer while stirring at 350 rpm.

[0142] Next, isodecane & trimethylsiloxysilicate & water & propanediol & decyl glucoside & phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & hexylene glycol, and PEG-10 dimethicone were added with a propeller stirrer while stirring at 500 rpm.

[0143] Next, the resulting mixture was homogenized for 15 minutes.

[0144] Next, the nacre coated with magnesium stearate was introduced while stirring at 500 rpm until a smooth and homogeneous texture was obtained.

[0145] Finally, alcohol was introduced and the mixture was homogenized for approximately 10 minutes.

[0146] The pH was adjusted using a sodium hydroxide solution.

[0147] [Example 2] Eye shadow An eye shadow (OAP2) having the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared.

[0148]

Table 2

[0149] A premix of carbomer and water was produced. Polysorbate 20, glycerin, butylene glycol, alcohol, and phenoxyethanol were mixed into the premix while stirring.

[0150] Subsequently, isodecane & trimethylsiloxysilicate & water & propanediol & decyl glucoside & phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & hexylene glycol, and PEG-10 dimethicone were introduced into the previously obtained mixture.

[0151] Subsequently, a magnesium stearate-coated nacre layer was added.

[0152] The pH was adjusted using a sodium hydroxide solution.

[0153] [Example 3] Eye shadow In the following examples, four eye shadows, OAP3, OPA4, OAP5, and OAP6, were formulated by varying, for example, different parameters: - The content of the magnesium stearate-coated nacre layer; - Treatment of the nacre layer, or no treatment; - The content of the pigment, and its treatment or no treatment by varying them.

[0154] The following table presents different formulations.

[0155]

Table 3

[0156] For OAP3, OPA4, and OAP5, a premix of carbomer and water was produced. Polysorbate 20, glycerin, butylene glycol, alcohol, and phenoxyethanol were mixed into the premix while stirring.

[0157] Next, isodecane & trimethylsiloxysilicic acid & water & propanediol & decyl glucoside & phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & hexylene glycol, and PEG-10 dimethicone were introduced into the previously obtained mixture.

[0158] Next, the following were added: - For OAP3, nacre coated with magnesium stearate, and iron oxide coated with magnesium stearate; - For OAP4, untreated nacre; - For OAP5, untreated nacre, and untreated iron oxide.

[0159] The pH was adjusted using a sodium hydroxide solution.

[0160] For OAP6, a premix of carbomer, glycerin, butylene glycol, and water was prepared.

[0161] Next, polysorbate 20, alcohol, and phenoxyethanol were mixed into the premix with stirring.

[0162] Next, isodecane & trimethylsiloxysilicic acid & water & propanediol & decyl glucoside & phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & hexylene glycol, and PEG-10 dimethicone were introduced into the previously obtained mixture.

[0163] Finally, nacre coated with magnesium stearate, and iron oxide coated with magnesium stearate were introduced.

[0164] The pH was adjusted using a sodium hydroxide solution.

[0165] [Example 4] Evaluation of metallic effect Measurement and quantification by Samba (registered trademark) Reflection The gloss of the complex was evaluated by a method particularly known to those skilled in the art in the field of cosmetics using the Samba® device sold by BOSSA NOVA TECHNOLOGIES (Venice, USA).

[0166] The Samba® system is based on the use of a polarized camera capable of evaluating the appearance with respect to gloss, color, and light scattering on different media. It is related to non-contact measurements that enable measurements to be taken immediately after application of the product (without drying).

[0167] The system consists of the following three main elements: - A color polarized camera - Polarized illumination - A cylindrical support.

[0168] The scene observed by the polarized camera corresponds to the application card and the product installed in the cylindrical attachment within -12.7 mm < x < 12.7 mm and -45° < θ < 45°. This system is equivalent to angular measurement thanks to the cylindrical support.

[0169] Thanks to the polarization of the color camera and the illumination, it becomes possible to decompose the light scattered into specular light and diffused light for each pixel of the image. In color analysis, the decomposition of specular light into its gloss and chrominance components is considered.

[0170] This source emits a polarized beam towards the sample. When this beam contacts the surface, it returns to the camera in the following multiple light components: - The first component is gloss. This is the white polarized reflection from the surface and has the same polarization as the incident light. It appears as a band in the product. The width of the band is determined by the surface roughness and the irregularities of the product and / or the coating. - The second component is called the chrominance band (chroma). - The third component is diffused light.

[0171] It is possible to visualize and record different images (overall, mirror, gloss, chroma, and diffusion), as well as the corresponding angular spectral profiles.

[0172] Calculate numerical data to enable complete characterization of the appearance of the product. Measurements were taken on the image or curve.

[0173] Typically, as the reflectance peak (specular light) increases, the product becomes glossier.

[0174] Calculation of specular integral and W visual The first step consists of acquiring an image of the sample.

[0175] The second step consists of extracting the angular distribution and - specular profile; - diffusion profile; - and the geometry of the gloss band collecting them.

[0176] These profiles characterize the third step.

[0177] The specular profile enables the following information to be obtained: - the maximum value of the specular profile; - specular integral - the full width at half maximum of the band.

[0178] The diffusion profile enables the following to be observed: - the maximum value of the diffusion profile; - diffusion integral.

[0179] Calculate the W visual at an angle in the following way: After dividing the image into ten equal parts, in each part of the image, trace the reflection curve and calculate the full width at half maximum of the peak. Then, average over the ten curves. [Equation 1] W Visual (°) = Half-width of the peak at maximum / 2 of the reflection peak (specular light) measured in the image Maximum: Maximum value of the profile Integral: Area under the reflection curve (specular light).

[0180] Typically, as the W Visual decreases, the product becomes more glossy.

[0181] The following rules were used to evaluate the gloss of formulations on the Samba (registered trademark) apparatus sold by BOSSA NOVA TECHNOLOGIES (Venice, USA): - Application with an airbrush; - Adhesion of 150 μm; - Measurement at T0 at room temperature T of approximately 20 - 22 °C; - Application of a black contrast card made by BYK (serial number 2810).

[0182] Evaluation of the aqueous metallic effect of different eyeshadows Different eyeshadows were evaluated using the above-described Samba (registered trademark) method to characterize the metallic effect according to the present invention.

[0183] The presence or absence of a magnesium stearate-coated nacre layer and the presence or absence of iron oxide coated with stearate are summarized in the following table.

[0184] [Table 4]

[0185] The W Visual measured in the image, the maximum value, the integral measured by the curve, and the effect observed with the naked eye are recorded in the following table for each eyeshadow.

[0186] [Table 5]

[0187] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising a hydrophobized nacre layer makes it possible to obtain a desired metallic effect, a so-called aqueous metallic effect or mirror effect.

[0188] [Example 5] Eye shadow An eye shadow (OAP7) having the composition shown in Table 6 below was prepared.

[0189] [Table 6]

[0190] A premix of carbomer and water was produced. Polysorbate 20, glycerin, butylene glycol, alcohol, and phenoxyethanol were mixed into the premix with stirring.

[0191] Subsequently, isodecane & trimethylsiloxysilicate & water & propanediol & decyl glucoside & phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & hexylene glycol, and PEG-10 dimethicone were introduced into the previously obtained mixture.

[0192] Subsequently, a magnesium stearate-coated nacre layer was added.

[0193] The pH was adjusted using a sodium hydroxide solution.

[0194] Once obtained, the eye shadow OAP7 was tested to evaluate the retention of the metallic effect obtained. The evaluation was carried out by the experimenter at the following times: - Immediately after application of the composition to the eyelid; - Before a meal, at the 3-hour 30-minute mark; - At the end of the day, at the 7-hour 30-minute mark.

[0195] The experimenter assigned a score between 0 and 9 for the following: - Presence of the product; - Homogeneity of the eyeshadow; - Movement of the eyeshadow onto eyelid wrinkles, or spreading of the eyeshadow; - Spreading of the eyeshadow around the eyes.

[0196] These scores are used in the following calculations: - Average value for three times; - Delta (Δ) at each time (3 hours 30 minutes, 7 hours 30 minutes).

[0197] Next, the delta is expressed as a percentage (%): - Loss percentage of the product (color retention); - Loss percentage of homogeneity; - Spreading percentage of the product around the eyes; - Movement percentage.

[0198] Record the results in Table 7 below.

[0199]

Table 7

[0200] Generally, OAP7 according to the present invention enables good action time, homogeneous application of makeup, and strong effects. The eyeshadow fades very slightly at the end of 3 hours 30 minutes, loses homogeneity very slightly, but hardly moves and does not spread under the eyes.

[0201] Therefore, advantageously, with the cosmetic composition in a continuous aqueous phase according to the present invention containing a hydrophobic-treated nacre layer, a desired metallic effect, so-called aqueous metallic effect or mirror effect can be obtained, which is retained for a long time and can have a fresh and pleasant texture. Note that the present invention encompasses the following embodiments. [1] In a continuous aqueous phase, - at least one colorant selected from hydrophobically treated nacre, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - water A cosmetic composition containing the same. [2] The cosmetic composition according to [1] above, wherein the hydrophobically treated nacre is present in an amount in the range of 16 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 33% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [3] The cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2] above, wherein the hydrophobic treatment is treatment with a metal soap. [4] The cosmetic composition according to [3] above, wherein the metal soap is a fatty acid soap having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. [5] The cosmetic composition according to [3] or [4] above, wherein the metal of the metal soap is zinc or magnesium. [6] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [3] to [5] above, wherein the metal soap is selected from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the metal soap is magnesium stearate. [7] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [6] above, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polysaccharides, such as leachates of microorganisms, preferably xanthan gum, plant extracts, preferably tremella fuciformis polysaccharides, acrylic acid polymers, preferably carbomers, or mixtures thereof. [8] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [7] above, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount in the range of 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [9] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [8] above, wherein the composition contains 30 to 70% by weight, preferably 40 to 60% by weight, of water based on the total weight of the composition.

[10] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [9] above, wherein the aqueous phase contains at least one other colorant selected from hydrophobically treated pigments, and the content of the hydrophobically treated pigment is less than 1.5% based on the total weight of the composition.

[11] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[10] above, characterized by containing a water retention agent selected from polyols, preferably selected from glycerol and butylene glycol.

[12] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[11] above, characterized by containing a film-forming agent selected from film-forming polymers dispersible in the aqueous phase, preferably an aqueous dispersion of a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, oil-soluble film-forming polymers such as a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin dispersed in isododecane, acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure grafted onto a vinyl backbone, and mixtures thereof.

[13] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[12] above, characterized by containing at least one oil and at least one emulsifier and being in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[14] The cosmetic composition according to

[13] above, characterized in that the oil is a volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile linear alkanes, and volatile silicone oils.

[15] The cosmetic composition according to

[13] or

[14] above, characterized by containing less than 5% of a non-volatile oil, preferably containing no non-volatile oil.

[16] The cosmetic composition according to

[13] or

[14] above, characterized in that the emulsifier is selected from silicone emulsifiers, hydrocarbon emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof.

[17] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[16] above, characterized by having a specular integral of 6000 or more, preferably 7000 or more, and a W visual of 8 or more, preferably 9 or more.

[18] A method for preparing the cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[17] above, comprising: - mixing the hydrophilic gelling agent with water and optionally the hydrocarbon and / or silicone emulsifier, the water retention agent, and a water-soluble solvent; - optionally adding a film-forming agent, silicone and / or hydrocarbon emulsifier, and additives; - adding a hydrophobically treated nacre layer and optionally a hydrophobically treated pigment; - optionally adjusting the pH The method comprising the above steps.

[19] A method for making up a keratinous substance, especially the skin or lips, preferably the eyelids, which comprises applying to said keratinous substance, especially the skin or lips, preferably the eyelids, the cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to

[17] above.

[20] Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of [1] to

[17] above for forming a colored makeup with a metallic effect on a keratinous substance, especially the skin or lips, preferably the eyelids.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising: In a continuous aqueous phase, - At least one colorant selected from nacre treated with a metal soap, wherein the nacre treated with the metal soap is present in an amount in the range of 16 to 35% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; or at least one colorant selected from nacre treated with a metal soap, wherein the nacre treated with the metal soap is present in an amount in the range of 16 to 35% by weight based on the total weight of the composition and at least one other colorant selected from a hydrophobically treated pigment, wherein the hydrophobically treated pigment is present in an amount of less than 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; - At least one hydrophilic gelling agent; - A film-forming agent selected from an aqueous dispersion of a trimethylsiloxysilicic acid resin, a lipophilic film-forming polymer, an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure grafted to a vinyl backbone, and mixtures thereof, wherein the film-forming agent is present in an amount in the range of 5 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and - Water in an amount of 30 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; comprising - At least one oil and at least one emulsifier; further comprising A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacre treated with the metal soap is present in an amount in the range of 20 to 33% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the metal soap is a fatty acid soap having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the metal of the metal soap is zinc or magnesium.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the metal soap is selected from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the metal soap is magnesium stearate.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from one of a polysaccharide, an acrylic acid polymer, or a mixture thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the polysaccharide is xanthan gum and / or the acrylic acid polymer is carbomer.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in a content in the range of 0.05 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition does not contain a hydrophobically treated pigment.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains a humectant selected from polyols.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the oil is a volatile oil selected from a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a volatile linear alkane, and a volatile silicone oil.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains less than 5% of a non-volatile oil or does not contain a non-volatile oil.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the emulsifier is selected from a silicone emulsifier, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, or a mixture thereof.

15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it has a specular integral of 6000 or more and a W visual of 8 or more.

16. ] A method for preparing the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising: - mixing the hydrophilic gelling agent with water; - adding nacre treated with a metal soap, or nacre treated with a metal soap and a hydrophobically treated pigment. A method comprising the above.

17. - further comprising mixing the hydrophilic gelling agent with water, a hydrocarbon and / or a silicone emulsifier, a humectant, and a water-soluble solvent, and / or - adding a film-forming agent, a silicone and / or a hydrocarbon emulsifier, and an additive, and / or - adjusting the pH. The method according to claim 16, further comprising the above.

18. A method for making up a keratin substance, comprising applying to the keratin substance a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15. [

19. ] Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for forming a colored makeup with a metallic effect on a keratin substance.

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