Woven fabric and method for producing the same

The woven fabric with resin-made warp threads and controlled shrinkage techniques forms delicate pleat structures and patterns without pleat machines, improving design flexibility and precision.

JP7714244B2Active Publication Date: 2025-07-29MIYAKE DESIGN JIMUSHO
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2023149513
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-09-14
Publication Date
2025-07-29
Estimated Expiration
2043-09-14

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing woven fabrics struggle to form delicate pleat structures without the use of pleat machines, limiting design flexibility and precision in incorporating patterns and colors.

Method used

A woven fabric design featuring resin-made warp threads, including shrinkable warp threads with front-side and back-side jumping-over portions, allows for the formation of delicate pleat structures through controlled shrinkage, enabling precise alignment and integration of patterns and colors without the need for pleat machines.

Benefits of technology

The method enables the formation of dense and colorful pleat structures with high precision, allowing for varied pleat sizes and patterns, enhancing design flexibility and productivity.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide a woven fabric having a built-in structure for forming a more precise pleat structure, and to provide a method for manufacturing the woven fabric.SOLUTION: In a woven fabric having a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns crossing the plurality of warp yarns, the plurality of warp yarns are made of a resin, a part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, and the shrinkable warp yarn has a front side jump part which jumps over a predetermined number of weft yarns adjacent to each other in a length direction from the front side, and a back side jump part which jumps over a predetermined number of weft yarns adjacent to each other in the length direction from the back side, repeatedly.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same.

Background Art

[0002] The inventors have proposed a woven fabric having a structure for forming a decoration itself and a method for manufacturing the same in Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2015-218426).

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0003]

Patent Document 1

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0004] The inventors repeated trial and error to further develop the technology of Patent Document 1 and succeeded in forming a delicate pleat structure with a woven fabric without using a pleat machine.

[0005] Therefore, the present invention provides a woven fabric having a structure for forming a more delicate pleat structure and a method for manufacturing the same.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0006] That is, one aspect of the present invention is a woven fabric having a plurality of warp threads and a plurality of weft threads that intersect with the plurality of warp threads, wherein the plurality of warp threads are made of resin, a plurality of some of the plurality of warp threads are shrinkable warp threads, and the shrinkable warp threads repeatedly have a front-side jumping-over portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the front side in the length direction and a back-side jumping-over portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the back side in the length direction. To provide a woven fabric characterized by... Note that the woven fabric of the present invention may have a structure in which the weft yarns and the warp yarns are interchanged with each other.

[0007] In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the weft yarns arranged in the troughs that overlap due to the front-side overjump portions have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft yarns.

[0008] Also, in the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that a predetermined number of weft yarns overjumped by the front-side overjump portions have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft yarns.

[0009] Also, another aspect of the present invention is... including a front-side fabric and a back-side fabric composed of the woven fabric described above, wherein the troughs and ridges formed by the front-side overjump portions and the back-side overjump portions in the front-side fabric overlap with the troughs and ridges formed by the front-side overjump portions and the back-side overjump portions in the back-side fabric, To provide a woven fabric characterized by...

[0010] Also, another aspect of the present invention is... a step of weaving a fabric with a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns that intersect with the plurality of warp yarns in a preset pattern, a step of applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric, A method for manufacturing a woven fabric, including: wherein the plurality of warp yarns are made of resin, a plurality of some of the plurality of warp yarns are shrinkable warp yarns, the shrinkable warp yarns repeatedly have a front-side overjump portion that overjumps a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the front side and a back-side overjump portion that overjumps a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the back side in the length direction, To provide a method for manufacturing a woven fabric characterized by... Note that in the method for manufacturing a woven fabric of the present invention, the woven fabric may have a structure in which the weft yarns and the warp yarns are interchanged with each other.

Effects of the Invention

[0011] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven fabric incorporating a structure for forming a more delicate pleat structure and a method for manufacturing the same. Therefore, the step of forming pleats in the fabric by a pleat machine can be omitted. Further, for example, when incorporating a structure for forming pleats, color, and pattern into the fabric, the pleats, color, and pattern can be precisely matched.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0012]

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0013] Hereinafter, the woven fabric and its manufacturing method according to typical embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. Note that since the drawings are for conceptually explaining the present invention, for ease of understanding, dimensions, ratios, or numbers may be exaggerated or simplified as necessary, and the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0014] 1. Basic structure of the woven fabric 1 Referring to FIG. 1, the basic configuration of the woven fabric 1 will be described. FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the weave of the woven fabric 1.

[0015] The woven fabric 1 is a fabric made of a woven material. That is, the woven fabric 1 has a plurality of warp threads 10 and a plurality of weft threads 20 that intersect with the plurality of warp threads 10. The plurality of warp threads 10 is a general term for normal warp threads (other warp threads) 11 and shrinkable warp threads 12, which will be described later, and are made of resin. Also, the plurality of weft threads 20 is a general term for the weft threads 21, which will be described later, and are made of resin. Note that the fabric constituting the woven fabric 1 may be single-layer or double-layer.

[0016] The plurality of warp threads 10 includes normal warp threads 11 and shrinkable warp threads 12. Here, the normal warp threads 11 may be chemical fibers or resin fibers. The normal warp threads 11 can be manufactured from a resin material such as polyester, for example.

[0017] The shrinkable warp threads 12 are those that shrink more in the length direction than the normal warp threads 11 when a specific treatment such as heating is applied, and can also be called heat-shrinkable yarns. For example, the shrinkable warp thread 12 is composed of a core and a covering thread wound around the outer peripheral side of the core. For the core, a material that shrinks significantly in the length direction when heated at a predetermined temperature, such as polyurethane, can be used. Also, for the covering thread, the same material as the normal warp thread 11, such as polyester, can be used.

[0018] The shrinkable warp thread 12 in the woven fabric 1 has a front-side jumping-over portion 12A that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads 21 from the front side of the woven fabric 1 in the length direction thereof. The front-side jumping-over portion 12A is exposed on the front side of the woven fabric 1. Further, the shrinkable warp 12 has a backside overjump portion 12B that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent wefts 21 from the backside of the woven fabric 1 in its longitudinal direction. The backside overjump portion 12B is hidden on the backside of the woven fabric 1. The front and back overjump portions 12A and 12B are arranged according to a preset pattern, as will be described later.

[0019] The weft 21 may be a natural fiber or a chemical fiber or a resin fiber. For example, polyester, cotton, nylon, aluminum, glass fiber, etc., such as polyester, can be used.

[0020] In such a woven fabric 1, by applying a specific treatment such as heating, the shrinkable warp 12 shrinks more in the longitudinal direction than the normal warp 11. Here, the heating means includes applying an iron or steam to the woven fabric 1 or soaking the woven fabric 1 in hot water. As a result, the shrinkable warp 12 shrinks greatly at the front and back overjump portions 12A and 12B, and the woven fabric 1 shrinks in the warp direction as a whole. Therefore, by adjusting the width (distance) of the front and back overjump portions 12A and 12B (for example, 1 to 5 mm, preferably 2 to 3 mm), the tension of shrinkage can be suitably controlled. In this way, a delicate pleat structure is formed by the woven fabric 1 according to a preset pattern. In this regard, if the width of the front and back overjump portions 12A and 12B is less than 1 mm, no pleats are formed in the first place, and if this width is greater than 5 mm, a loop-like shape is formed and sharp pleats are not formed.

[0021] Specific examples of the material constituting the woven fabric 1 are given. As the normal warp threads 11, threads of various specifications (such as thickness) can be used as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, polyester 50 to 150 (preferably 70 to 80) denier (36 filaments) can be used. Further, as the shrinkable warp threads 12, polyester wound marlon (with sizing processing) can be used. The shrinkable warp threads 12 can be 50 to 150 denier. The ratio (number) of the normal warp threads 11 to the shrinkable warp threads 12 may be 1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 30%.

[0022] Also, as the weft threads 21, threads of various specifications can be used as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, 30 denier to 3000 denier can be used. The number of weft threads 21 beaten in can be 50 to 120 (preferably 80 to 90) per 1 cm. If the number of beaten-in threads is other than 50 to 120, it will not become a fabric. That is, if the number of beaten-in threads is less than 50 per 1 cm, it will become thick and the shape stability as a fabric will be impaired, so it is difficult to become a fabric. Also, if the number of beaten-in threads exceeds 120 per 1 cm, it will become dense and the fabric will become too firm, resulting in impaired flexibility and processability, so it is difficult to become a practical fabric. In order to more surely obtain the effects of the present invention, it is preferable to use weft threads of 50 to 300 denier and set the number of beaten-in threads to 80 to 90.

[0023] 2. Formation of pleats on the woven fabric 1 Next, a method for forming a pleat pattern on the woven fabric 1 will be described. First, a method for forming a pleat on a single-layer fabric will be described, and then a method for forming a pleat on a double-layer fabric will be described.

[0024] (1) In order to form a mountain fold on the woven fabric 1, it is sufficient to provide a back-side overjump portion 12B on the woven fabric 1. Also, in order to form a valley fold on the woven fabric 1, it is sufficient to provide a front-side overjump portion 12A on the woven fabric 1. Therefore, in order to repeatedly form mountain folds and valley folds (pleat patterns) on the woven fabric 1, it is sufficient to provide front-side and back-side overjump portions 12A and 12B on the woven fabric 1. In FIGS. 2, 6, 8, and 9, the mountain folds are represented by solid lines, and the valley folds are represented by dashed lines.

[0025] Specifically, in the example shown in FIG. 2, mountain folds, valley folds, valley folds, and mountain folds are repeatedly formed on the woven fabric 1. As a result, pleats with recesses as illustrated in FIG. 3 can be formed on the woven fabric 1.

[0026] Also, by repeating mountain folds and valley folds on the woven fabric 1, pleats advancing in one direction as illustrated in FIG. 4(A) can be formed on the woven fabric 1. In this example, the backside overshoot portion 12B and the frontside overshoot portion 12A may be repeatedly provided on the woven fabric 1 in this order. Conversely, by repeating valley folds and mountain folds on the woven fabric 1, pleats advancing in the direction opposite to the example of FIG. 4(A) as illustrated in FIG. 4(B) can be formed on the woven fabric 1. In this example, the frontside overshoot portion 12A and the backside overshoot portion 12B may be repeatedly provided on the woven fabric 1 in this order.

[0027] Furthermore, by changing the overshoot width of the frontside and backside overshoot portions 12A, 12B, the size of the pleats themselves can be changed. Also, by changing the interval between adjacent frontside and backside overshoot portions 12A, 12B, the interval between the pleats can be changed. By combining these techniques, various pleat patterns can be formed.

[0028] Therefore, without using a pleat machine, dense and colorful pleats can be formed on the woven fabric 1 as described later. For example, dense pleats (pleats) with a width of 1 mm to 30 mm can be formed with high productivity. Also, a woven fabric in which dense pleats (pleats) with a small width and dense pleats (pleats) with a large width are mixed can be obtained. Moreover, the formation position of the pleats can be accurately controlled. In this regard, it is hardly realistic to accurately align the position of the pleats and the position of the pattern in a pleat machine.

[0029] (2) It is also possible to form the double woven fabric 1 by overlapping the woven fabric (fabric) described in (1) above. To form the double woven fabric 1, two pieces of fabric may be overlapped, or one piece of fabric may be folded back at a preset location. The latter can be applied to the folded parts such as sleeves and hems, for example.

[0030] Specifically, in the example shown in FIG. 6, as the front fabric 3, a woven fabric similar to that in FIG. 2 (see FIGS. 6(A) and 7(A1), (A2)) is prepared, and as the back fabric 5, a fabric in which the mountain folds and valley folds are interchanged with those of the woven fabric in FIG. 2 (see FIGS. 6(B) and 7(B1), (B2)) is prepared. That is, in the back fabric 5, the front jump-over part 12A and the back jump-over part 12B are interchanged with respect to the front fabric 3. When such front and back fabrics 3 and 5 are overlapped, the valley folds of the back fabric 5 correspond to the mountain folds of the front fabric 3, and the mountain folds of the back fabric 5 correspond to the valley folds of the front fabric 3 (see FIG. 7(C)). Therefore, the valleys and mountains are programmed so that the pleats of the front fabric 3 and the back fabric 5 mesh with each other. As a result, the double woven fabric 1 with pleats can be thinned.

[0031] To fold back the front and back fabrics 3 and 5 as one piece of fabric at a preset location (reference numeral X in FIG. 6(C)), at the folding location X, the pattern may be switched from the pattern of the front fabric 3 to the pattern of the back fabric 5. Also, in order to create a crease at the folding location, a shrinkable thread may be incorporated into a part of the weft yarns at the folding location, and a skip part in the weft direction may be provided.

[0032] 3. Formation of patterns on the valley-folded part on the front side of the woven fabric 1 The woven fabric 1 can be given a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft yarns 21 for the weft yarns 21 corresponding to the parts that are valley-folded and become invisible from the front side. As a result, different patterns can appear between the shrunk state of the woven fabric 1 and the stretched state of the woven fabric 1. Hereinafter, specific methods will be described.

[0033] (1) A case of a single-layer woven fabric 1 will be described. This corresponds to applying a predetermined color scheme to the woven fabric 1 illustrated in FIGS. 2 and 3 (applying a preset color to the weft yarn 21). As described above, in the shrunk state of the woven fabric 1, the overlapping portion C (see FIG. 5(B)) that overlaps due to valley folding is not visible from the front side. Since the valley fold is formed by the front side overhanging portion 12A, a color scheme (including patterns) different from other portions may be applied to the overlapping portion C that overlaps due to the valley fold.

[0034] In particular, from the viewpoint of providing a buffer or slack so that patterns hidden by a slight elongation of the woven fabric 1 are not exposed, among the overlapping portions C that overlap due to valley folding, portions at a predetermined distance (which varies depending on the thickness of the fabric, the width of the pleats, etc., for example, 1 to 2 mm) from both ends thereof are preferably provided with a color scheme (including patterns) different from other portions. Alternatively, a predetermined number of weft yarns 21 (the portion indicated by reference numeral B in FIG. 5(A), that is, the gray portion) overhanging by the front side overhanging portion 12A may have a color scheme different from that of the adjacent other weft yarns 21 (the portion indicated by reference numeral A in FIG. 5(A)).

[0035] Thereby, different patterns can appear in the shrunk state of the woven fabric 1 and the stretched state of the woven fabric 1. In the illustrated example, the shrunk state of the woven fabric 1 is plain white on the front side (see FIG. 3(A)) and has a black border pattern on the back side (not shown), while in the stretched state of the woven fabric 1, a black border pattern appears on the front side (see FIG. 5(A)) and the pattern becomes an extended border pattern on the back side (not shown). Of course, the border pattern mentioned here is only an example, and the present invention is not limited thereto. Therefore, the degree of freedom of creation by the designer can be increased.

[0036] (2) Next, a woven fabric 1 made of a double-layer fabric will be described. This corresponds to applying a predetermined color scheme to the woven fabric 1 illustrated in FIGS. 6 and 7 (applying a preset color to the weft yarn 21), and here, two patterns illustrated in FIGS. 8 and 9 will be described.

[0037] In any pattern, in the shrunk state, the front of the front fabric 3 is plain white, and the back of the front fabric 3 is a black border (see FIGS. 8(A) and 9(A)). The formation of such a pattern was described in detail in (1) above. Therefore, hereinafter, the back fabric 5 will be mainly described.

[0038] The first pattern is the case where, in the shrunk state, the front of the back fabric 5 is plain white and the back of the back fabric 5 is a black border (see FIG. 8(B)). As described above, in the back fabric 5, the front jump-over part 12A and the back jump-over part 12B are interchanged with respect to the front fabric 3. By applying a color scheme (for example, black) different from that of other parts (for example, white) to the overlapping part C formed by valley folding with respect to such a back fabric 5, in the shrunk state, the front of the back fabric 5 becomes plain white and the back of the back fabric 5 becomes a black border (see FIG. 8(B)). In particular, from the viewpoint of providing a buffer or slack so that the pattern hidden by a slight stretch of the woven fabric 1 does not appear, it is preferable that a predetermined number of weft yarns 21 (the part indicated by reference numeral B in FIG. 8(B), that is, the gray part) jumped over by the front jump-over part 12A have a color scheme different from that of the adjacent other weft yarns 21 (the part indicated by reference numeral A in FIG. 8(B)).

[0039] Therefore, when the back fabric 5 is overlaid on the back side of the front fabric 3, the patterns on the back side match, and a clean and stylish appearance can be obtained.

[0040] The second pattern is the case where the front of the back fabric 5 is a border and the back of the back fabric 5 is plain white (see FIG. 9(B)). In this case, in the back fabric 5, the front jump-over part 12A and the back jump-over part 12B are interchanged with respect to the front fabric 3, but the back fabric 5 is made to have the same color scheme as the front fabric 3. As a result, when the back fabric 5 is overlaid on the back side of the front fabric 3, the patterns on the back side of the front fabric 3 and the back side of the back fabric 5 will be different, and the difference in design can be enjoyed.

[0041] Of course, it is also possible to appropriately combine these two patterns, which expands the creative possibilities for designers.

[0042] 4. Manufacturing method of the woven fabric 1 Next, a method for manufacturing the woven fabric 1 will be described.

[0043] The method for manufacturing the woven fabric 1 includes a step of weaving a fabric with a plurality of warp threads 10 and a plurality of weft threads 20 in a preset pattern (weaving step), and a step of applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric. Here, since heating is used as the specific treatment, the latter step is referred to as the heating step. However, as the specific treatment, any treatment that can shrink the shrinkable warp threads 12 included in the plurality of warp threads 10 may be used, and for example, other treatments such as immersion in chemicals may also be used.

[0044] In the weaving step, the warp threads 10 and the weft threads 20 are supplied to a loom and woven. The weaving method of the woven fabric 1 may be any as long as it is woven by the warp threads 10 and the weft threads 20. For example, plain weave, twill weave (diagonal weave), satin weave, and other weave structures obtained by changing the three basic weaves of plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, double weave (warp double weave, weft double weave), multi-layer weave with more than double layers, and figured weave (jacquard weave) may be used.

[0045] At this time, a front side overjump portion 12A and a back side overjump portion 12B are provided on the shrinkable warp threads 12 in a preset pattern. Also, the color arrangement of the weft threads 20 belonging to the portion that will form a valley fold after the subsequent heating step is set to be different from the color arrangement of the weft threads 20 in the adjacent portion. Also, necessary yarn dyeing, etc. is carried out before hanging the warp threads 10 and the weft threads 20 on the loom.

[0046] In addition, in the case of the woven fabric 1 made of a double fabric, where the front side fabric 3 and the back side fabric 5 are woven together as one fabric, the patterns and color arrangements of the warp threads 10 and the weft threads 20 applied to each of the front side fabric 3 and the back side fabric 5 are preset.

[0047] Next, in the heating step, steam is applied to the woven fabric 1 that has been woven to shrink the shrinkable warp 12, thereby forming pleats in the woven fabric 1. The heating conditions of the woven fabric 1 can be appropriately adjusted according to the specifications of the woven fabric 1. For example, steam at 100°C to 180°C may be applied to the woven fabric 1 for about 1 second to 1 minute, preferably 2 to 3 seconds to 30 seconds.

[0048] For the woven fabric of the present invention, yarns of various colors can be used, or it can be reversed halfway to produce different colors, textures, hardnesses, and patterns on the front and back, or different colorful colors, textures, hardnesses, and patterns can be imparted according to the regions. These delicate and colorful woven fabrics are applicable to various uses. For example, in addition to clothing and bags, they can also be used for interior materials such as wall hangings, shades, and curtains, decorative materials, building materials, frames, housings, packages, etc.

[0049] As described above, representative embodiments of the present invention have been described. However, the present invention is not limited to such embodiments only, and various design changes are possible, and all such modified design aspects are also included in the technical scope of the present invention. For example, the woven fabric 1 may have a structure in which the weft 20 and the warp 10 are interchanged with each other. That is, yarns of various colors and materials may be stretched as the warp 10, and a normal yarn (e.g., polyester) and a shrinkable yarn may be woven as the weft 20. At this time, by forming a front-side overjump portion and a back-side overjump portion in the weft, the woven fabric after weaving may be heated to shrink the fabric in the lateral direction. Such a method is suitable for mass production because of its good production efficiency.

Explanation of Reference Numerals

[0050] 1 Woven fabric (fabric) 11 Normal warp (other warp) 12 Shrinkable warp 12A Front-side overjump portion 12B Back-side overjump portion 21 Weft

Claims

1. A woven fabric having a plurality of warp threads and a plurality of weft threads that intersect with the plurality of warp threads, wherein the plurality of warp threads are made of resin, wherein some of the plurality of warp threads are shrinkable warp threads, wherein the shrinkable warp threads repeatedly have a front-side overjump portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the front side in the length direction and a back-side overjump portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the back side in the length direction, wherein the weft threads arranged in the trough portions that overlap due to the front-side overjump portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft threads, wherein the predetermined number of weft threads jumped over by the front-side overjump portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft threads, characterized by the woven fabric.

2. Having a structure in which the weft threads and the warp threads are interchanged with each other, characterized by the woven fabric according to Claim 1.

3. Including a front-side fabric and a back-side fabric composed of the woven fabric according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the trough portions and peak portions formed by the front-side overjump portions and back-side overjump portions in the front-side fabric overlap with the trough portions and peak portions formed by the front-side overjump portions and back-side overjump portions in the back-side fabric, characterized by the woven fabric.

4. A method for manufacturing a woven fabric, including a step of weaving a fabric with a plurality of warp threads and a plurality of weft threads that intersect with the plurality of warp threads in a preset pattern, and a step of applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric, wherein the plurality of warp threads are made of resin, wherein some of the plurality of warp threads are shrinkable warp threads, wherein the shrinkable warp threads repeatedly have a front-side overjump portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the front side in the length direction and a back-side overjump portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft threads from the back side in the length direction, wherein the weft threads arranged in the trough portions that overlap due to the front-side overjump portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft threads, wherein the predetermined number of weft threads jumped over by the front-side overjump portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft threads, characterized by the method for manufacturing a woven fabric.

5. Having a structure in which the weft threads and the warp threads are interchanged with each other, characterized by the method for manufacturing a woven fabric according to Claim 4. ​

Citation Information

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