Novel cosmetic uses of fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) extracts

Abstract

A novel cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium is provided. The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in said visibility. The extract thus makes it possible to make the skin smoother. Another object of the present invention relates to a beauty care method comprising the topical application of an extract of E. angustifolium or a cosmetic composition comprising it.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic use of an extract of the plant Epilobium angustifolium. [Background technology]

[0002] Pores in the skin are openings through which secretions from sebaceous glands and sweat glands flow. They contain hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Various external factors, such as ultraviolet light, heat, pollution, as well as poor hygiene or an unbalanced diet, or simply skin aging, can cause pores to enlarge and the skin to become less smooth and unattractive. The pores become more visible, resulting in unaesthetic effects. Furthermore, intrinsic factors, such as male hormones and growth factors, modulate the activity of sebaceous glands and sweat glands.

[0003] IGF-1 (insulin-like growth factor 1) is a growth factor produced by dermal fibroblasts and melanocytes. It is essential for normal epidermal development. Its expression decreases with age. Keratinocytes express IGF-1 receptors. It has been shown that IGF-1 produced by dermal fibroblasts activates keratinocytes. However, when excess IGF-1 is produced, keratinocyte hyperactivity is observed, which leads to increased keratinocyte differentiation and thus hyperkeratinization of the skin. The skin exhibits larger and therefore more visible pores.

[0004] Furthermore, in the IGF-1 signal transduction pathway, a protein named insulin-like growth factor binding protein (IGFBP) modulates the activity of IGF-1. IGFBP3 is a major protein secreted by keratinocytes and generally in the epidermis. By binding to IGF-1, IGFBP3 blocks the attachment of IGF-1 to its receptor, preventing the hyperproliferation and hyperdifferentiation of keratinocytes. Thus, IGFBP3 is thought to be involved in reducing the size of pores and therefore their visibility.

[0005] Furthermore, type IV collagen is a constituent protein of the basement membrane at the dermal-epidermal junction, which is found not only in the skin but also in its appendages, especially in hair follicles, sweat glands and sebaceous glands.The expression of type IV collagen decreases with age, and is also subjected to external factors, such as ultraviolet light, which reduces its expression.As a result, this is the complementary main target for the development of cosmetic ingredients that have the effect of reducing the visibility of skin pores.

[0006] Cosmetic active ingredients that are able to reduce the visibility of pores are already available on the market, but there is a constant need in the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical fields for alternative active ingredients of this type that are stable and provide a long-lasting effect on the skin.

[0007] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that an extract of Epilobium angustifolium has the ability to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent said visibility from increasing.

[0008] The cosmetic use of the extract according to the invention is already known in the prior art: for example, French Patent Application No. 2 831 440 describes the inhibitory activity of E. angustifolium extracts against phospholipase A2, lipoxygenase and / or prostaglandin synthase, which has an effect against red spots and irritation on the skin.

[0009] JP 2003342154 A and WO 2004016236 A disclose the antioxidant activity of E. angustifolium extract.

[0010] French Patent Application No. 2 890 309 describes a cosmetic care method for reducing skin imperfections, which involves the application of three compositions in succession, one of which may contain a soothing agent, such as an extract of E. angustifolium, although this extract is listed in a long list of soothing agents.

[0011] Canadian Patent Application Publication No. 2386648 describes a method for treating skin which involves administering an effective amount of E. angustifolium extract as an antibacterial agent against acne.

[0012] Finally, US Patent Application Publication No. 2016184216 discloses an anti-dandruff composition containing E. angustifolium extract. The effect of the extract on sebum secretion is described in said application.

[0013] Thus, none of the cited prior art describes or suggests the use of E. angustifolium extract to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent said visibility from increasing.

[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, a distinction is made between ingredients that act on the sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands and that, when present in excess, characterises oily skin, and ingredients that act on the pores of the skin, advantageously by regulating hyperkeratinisation.

[0015] Thus, an active ingredient may tighten skin pores without having an effect on sebum regulation, in particular on sebocyte activity, which are two separate effects.

[0016] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, the prior art does not describe or suggest the effect of maintaining and / or reducing the visibility of pores associated with E. angustifolium extract. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0017] [Patent Document 1] French Patent Application Publication No. 2831440 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003342154 [Patent Document 3] International Publication No. 2004016236 Brochure [Patent Document 4] French Patent Application Publication No. 2890309 [Patent Document 5] Canadian Patent Application Publication No. 2386648 [Patent Document 6] US Patent Application Publication No. 2016184216 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0018] The plant E. angustifolium, also known as rhododendron or red herb, is a species of the genus Chamerion in the family Onagraceae, found in the Northern Hemisphere of the Earth. This plant is known in particular for its use in the production of mountain honeys. Its leaves, when used in herbal tea, have anti-migraine activity and activity against sleep disorders. They also have healing properties. [Means for solving the problem]

[0019] The E. angustifolium extract according to the invention has the advantage that it is easy to produce on an industrial scale: it is a readily available and always renewable plant raw material.

[0020] Furthermore, this extract has the advantage that it is tolerated by all skin types: it is not toxic and does not induce irritation or allergic reactions. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Thus, a first subject of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of E. angustifolium for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in said visibility. Another subject relates to said use in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable additive. Another subject also relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical or oral administration of an extract of E. angustifolium according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it.

[0022] A first object of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of E. angustifolium to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent said visibility from increasing.

[0023] The term "cosmetic use" is intended to mean a use that is not therapeutic, pharmaceutical or dermatological, i.e., that does not require therapeutic treatment and that is directed to healthy skin. The term "healthy skin" is intended to mean skin that is described as non-pathological by a dermatologist, an expert in the field, i.e., that does not exhibit infection, scarring, skin diseases or conditions, such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, dandruff, or wounds or lesions and / or other skin diseases.

[0024] The extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable ingredient. The term "topically acceptable" is intended to mean an ingredient that is non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin, does not induce an allergic response, and is not chemically unstable, making it suitable for topical application.

[0025] The extract can be used orally or topically. Advantageously, it is used topically. The term "topically" is intended to mean the direct topical application and / or spraying of ingredients onto the skin and / or mucosal surfaces.

[0026] The extract is advantageously applied to the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen , chest, neck, arms, torso, back, face and / or scalp, more preferably the scalp and / or face, even more preferably the face, and very preferably the "T-zone" of the face.

[0027] Very preferentially, the skin does not include the scalp.

[0028] The term "reducing the visibility of skin pores" is intended for the purposes of the present invention to mean reducing the opening diameter and / or area and / or density of skin pores.

[0029] The visibility of skin pores can be demonstrated in vivo by an assessment called "scoring" by a dermatologist on a defined area after application of a composition containing an extract according to the invention. It can also be demonstrated by an objective instrumental method using image analysis, which allows the extraction and quantification of specific parameters from high-resolution photographs in cross-polarization configuration of the face of a volunteer taken before and after application of a composition containing an extract according to the invention. The density of skin pores can also be measured in vivo by image processing, in particular by fringe projection techniques, by measuring a parameter known as curvature.

[0030] The term "preventing an increase in the visibility of skin pores" is intended to mean inhibiting an increase in the opening diameter of skin pores, in particular an increase in the dilation and / or area and / or an increase in the density of skin pores.

[0031] The dilation of skin pores can be induced by intrinsic factors, such as hormonal fluctuations, or by extrinsic factors, such as high or increasing external temperatures, UV rays, pollution, strong chemical agents, or the administration of other drugs that modify the keratinization mechanism. E. angustifolium extract makes it possible to prevent the dilation of skin pores.

[0032] In one embodiment, the extract according to the invention reduces the visibility of skin pores by reducing hyperkeratinization of the skin. The term "hyperkeratinization" is intended to mean keratinocyte hyperproliferation, which is not associated with a pathology requiring drug treatment, in particular dermatological treatment.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, reducing hyperkeratinization can mean increasing the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein.Thus, advantageously, the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective to maintain and / or increase the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein when the expression of IGFBP3 increases by at least 60%, advantageously at least 80%, more advantageously at least 100%, and very advantageously at least 150% in the presence of the extract according to the invention compared to the expression level detected in the absence of said extract.

[0034] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, this involves an increase in the protein expression of IGFB3 measured in keratinocytes described as "normal", i.e., not pathological. Preferentially, the measurement of the protein expression of IGFB3 is carried out by immunohistochemistry, advantageously by ELISA.

[0035] More advantageously, this measurement is carried out on normal keratinocytes cultured in the presence of an extract of E. angustifolium, in particular as prepared according to the method described under the conditions of Example 2a), preferably according to Example 1a), very advantageously also at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the final volume of the culture medium.

[0036] Alternatively, reducing hyperkeratinization may also mean increasing the expression of the type IV collagen gene and / or protein. Thus, an extract of E. angustifolium according to the invention is considered to be in an amount effective for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of the type IV collagen gene and / or protein when, in the presence of the extract according to the invention, the expression of the type IV collagen gene and / or protein increases by at least 40%, preferentially at least 80%, more preferentially at least 120%, and very preferentially at least 150% compared to the expression level detected in the absence of said extract.

[0037] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, this involves an increase in the protein expression of type IV collagen measured in keratinocytes described as "normal", i.e., not pathological. Preferentially, the measurement of the protein expression of type IV collagen is carried out by immunohistochemical techniques.

[0038] More advantageously, this measurement is carried out by the method described in particular under the conditions of Example 2b), preferably by the method prepared according to Example 1a), more advantageously at a concentration of 0.125 x 10 relative to the final volume of the culture medium. -2 At a concentration of 0.25×10 wt. %, very advantageously -2 The study was carried out on normal keratinocytes cultured in the presence of E. angustifolium extract at a concentration of 100% by weight.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, reducing hyperkeratinization means increasing gene and / or protein expression of IGFBP3 and type IV collagen.

[0040] The measurement of the visibility of skin pores can also be evaluated in vivo. Thus, further alternatively, an extract of E. angustifolium according to the present invention is considered to be in an amount "effective for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in the visibility of skin pores" when the extract reduces the visibility of skin pores by at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, in the presence of the extract according to the present invention compared to the visibility of skin pores evaluated without the extract. In an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the measurement of the visibility of skin pores is evaluated by an expert dermatologist in a group in which a cosmetic formulation containing E. angustifolium extract according to the present invention is topically applied to one half of the face, and the second part of the face serves as a control. More advantageously, the cosmetic formulation contains the tested extract, which may be the E. angustifolium extract according to Example 1a), at a final concentration of 0.20% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, and can be tested under the conditions described in Example 3.

[0041] Advantageously, furthermore, the extract according to the invention is not and is not used as an anti-acne active ingredient, in other words, it does not reduce acne and in particular it has no effect on the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes.

[0042] Reducing the visibility of pores makes it possible to prevent the enlargement of skin pores. Thus, the extract according to the invention is useful for making the skin smoother. The term "making the skin smoother" is intended to mean making the skin texture more refined and / or clearer.

[0043] In a highly preferred embodiment, the use of the extract according to the invention is not to reduce the visibility of scalp pores and / or to prevent an increase in said visibility. More preferentially, the extract is not active on the scalp.

[0044] The extract according to the invention can be an extract of all or parts of the plant E. angustifolium, selected from leaves, flowers, petals, seeds, stems and / or aerial parts. The term "aerial parts" is intended here to mean a mixture of leaves, flowers and stems. Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is an extract comprising the aerial parts, and very advantageously, it is an extract containing only the aerial parts.

[0045] The extract can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, selected from maceration, hot decoction, comminution, including ultrasonic comminution using a mixer, or else the extract can be obtained by extraction in water, in particular under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide).Preferentially, the extraction is carried out by maceration.

[0046] The extraction may be carried out using dry or fresh material, preferably dry material, in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight, advantageously 1% to 20% by weight, very advantageously 5% to 15% by weight, even more advantageously 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the material and extraction solvent.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dry matter" is intended to mean dehydrated plant matter containing less than 15%, advantageously less than 10%, more advantageously less than 5%, and very advantageously less than 1% water.

[0048] The extraction may be carried out at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature ranging from 4° C. to 300° C., including a temperature of 20° C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature between 60° C. and 90° C., preferentially between 70° C. and 85° C., and more preferentially at a temperature of 80° C.

[0049] In one alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature between 4°C and 25°C, more preferentially between 4°C and 20°C, and more advantageously at ambient temperature, i.e. at 20°C.

[0050] In yet another alternative embodiment of the invention, extraction is carried out in water under subcritical conditions at a temperature between 100°C and 300°C, advantageously in the range of 120°C to 250°C, more advantageously at 120°C. Extraction can be carried out at a single given temperature or at successively increasing temperatures. In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, extraction is carried out at a single temperature of 120°C. In an alternative embodiment, this is carried out by a gradient of three increasing temperatures from 100°C to 200°C, for example 120°C, 140°C, then 160°C, or 110°C, 130°C, then 150°C, or alternatively 120°C, 145°C, then 170°C.

[0051] The term extraction under "subcritical conditions" is intended to mean extraction under conditions of temperatures above 100°C and pressures below 221 bar in the presence of water, such that the water remains in a liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than those of water at ambient temperature and its dielectric constant is increased.

[0052] Thus, the extraction pressure is advantageously between 150 bar and 250 bar, preferentially between 200 and 221 bar, in the pressure extraction autoclave.

[0053] The extraction can be carried out for a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferentially for a period of 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferentially for a period of 1 hour to 5 hours, and more advantageously for a period of 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction is carried out for a period of 2 hours.

[0054] The extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent, advantageously in water, alcohol, glycol, polyol, water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol mixtures (e.g. water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, such as xylitol and / or propanediol) in a ratio of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w), advantageously in water as the only solvent.

[0055] In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, and even more advantageously containing no glycol, in particular no alcohol, and more particularly containing only water.

[0056] In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction may be carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, preferentially sold by BASF under the name Plantacare® 1200UP, or alternatively caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP), preferentially caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP). The weight concentration of the nonionic surfactant may be between 0.5% and 5% by weight, advantageously between 0.5% and 1% by weight, and more advantageously it is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0057] Thus, in a first advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by maceration in water as the only solvent, in an amount of 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry matter of the solvent and the aerial parts, at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 2 hours. The macerate is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1a). The final extract is in powder form.

[0058] Thus, in a second advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by maceration in water as the only solvent, in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry matter of the solvent and the aerial parts, for a period of 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature of 20° C. The maceration is then decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is then filtered (0.45 μm) under the conditions described in Example 1b). The final extract is in liquid form.

[0059] In a third embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration of the substance in a water / ethanol mixture (20:80, v:v) in an amount of 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and dry matter of the aerial parts at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. The maceration is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1c). The final extract is in powder form.

[0060] In a fourth advantageous embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration of the dry matter of the dried leaves in water as the only solvent, in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the leaves, at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 24 hours. The maceration is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1d). The final extract is in powder form.

[0061] Further decolorizing and / or deodorizing steps can be carried out at any stage of the extraction and on the extract by techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract can be decolorized with activated carbon.

[0062] In particular, the E. angustifolium extract obtained in liquid form under the conditions described in Examples 1a) to 1d) can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or dried, for example by freeze-drying or spray-drying in the presence of maltodextrin, and the extract is then in powder form.

[0063] Thus, in one preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract obtained is spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin, preferably in a concentration by weight of 20% to 90% by weight, preferentially 40% to 85% by weight, more preferentially 70% to 85% by weight, and very advantageously 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.In one particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for its use in dermatology, the E. angustifolium extract obtained is sterilized.

[0064] The extract according to the invention can be used alone in the form of a cosmetic ingredient or in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive. When used alone in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, it is preferably solubilized in an aqueous solution containing glycerin, advantageously present at a concentration of 60% to 90% by weight, more advantageously 70% to 85% by weight, and very advantageously 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract, as shown, for example, in Example 4.

[0065] In one alternative embodiment of the present invention, the extract is solubilized and / or diluted in a solvent, in particular a polar solvent, such as water, alcohol, polyol, glycol, such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, more preferably a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular 0.1% to 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, and preferentially 0.5% to 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular 0.01% to 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, and preferentially 0.1% to 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the E. angustifolium extract has been solubilized according to the invention comprises xanthan gum, in particular 0.01% to 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly 0.1% to 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract.

[0066] Advantageously, the solution in which the E. angustifolium extract has been solubilized according to the invention comprises, in particular, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum in the amounts indicated above.

[0067] The extract can also be present in a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable additive, the term "acceptable" being intended to mean a cosmetic additive that does not induce an allergic response and is chemically stable or non-irritating to the skin.

[0068] Thus, the subject of the present invention relates to the use of an extract of E. angustifolium in a cosmetic composition to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in said visibility and / or to make the skin smoother.

[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, the extract according to the invention is present in an amount of 1×10 -4 % by weight to 10% by weight, preferentially 1 × 10 -4 % by weight to 5% by weight, more preferentially 1 × 10 -3 % to 3% by weight, very preferentially 1 × 10 -3 In a very particular embodiment, the extract prepared according to Example 1a) is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration of 0.05% by weight to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another very particular embodiment, the extract prepared according to Example 1a) is present in a concentration of 0.125 x 10% by weight to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. -2 Weight % or 0.25 x 10 -2 % by weight.

[0070] The additives may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffers, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, gloss agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)) describes various cosmetic additives suitable for use in the present invention.

[0071] Advantageously, the additives are selected from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, cellulose polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gum, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaine, amine oxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine and parabens, more preferably steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate. Cole, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral wax and oil, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, glycerides from hydrogenated palm kernel oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, in particular shower gels, milks, emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions (in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multilayer or silicone-based), masks, serums, lotions, liquid soaps, soap bars, ointments, foams, patches, preferably anhydrous products which may be liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a makeup powder, rod or stick. Advantageously, it is a cream or serum.

[0073] The cosmetic composition may also contain other cosmetic active ingredients. Many cosmetic active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving the health and / or appearance of skin. Furthermore, the compounds described in the present invention may have synergistic effects when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes different cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, particularly those suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents such as clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, anti-acne agents, anti-clumping agents, anti-foaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffers, bulking agents, chelating agents, additives, biocides, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., moisturizers).

[0074] Advantageously, the E. angustifolium extract according to the invention is used as the sole active ingredient or cosmetic and / or dermatological sebum-regulating agents, preferentially Bixa orellana extract, sarcosine, such as that sold by the Applicant under the name MAT-XS® Clinical, Orthosiphon stamineus extract, such as that sold by the Applicant under the name MAT-XS® Bright, zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, azelaic acid and / or its derivatives, and / or mixtures thereof, advantageously in combination with zinc gluconate, and / or peeling and / or keratolytic agents: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), in particular salicylic acid, optionally in combination with acacia protein, malic acid, optionally in combination with almond protein, glycolic acid; lactic acid and / or its derivatives; and / or mixtures thereof, - sebum absorbents: talc and / or absorbent polymers, - agents acting on the microflora, in particular on the skin microflora, such as boldo (Peumus boldus) extracts, in particular those sold by the Applicant under the name Betapur™, and / or topical antibiotic agents, in particular erythromycin and / or clindamycin phosphate; agents for balancing the microflora, such as the mixture of pullulan, sodium alginate and sodium hyaluronate sold by the Applicant under the name PatcH20™, in particular as described in patent application WO 2014027163 A2, together with serine, trehalose and urea; and / or Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts for increasing the commensal microflora of the skin and / or mucous membranes, sold by the Applicant under the name Relipidium™, comedolytic agents, such as retinoic acid and / or its derivatives, such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide; moisturizing agents, for example agents chosen from one of the polysaccharides extracted from Cassia angustifolia seeds and sold by the Applicant under the name Hyalurosmooth™, or a combination containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate sold by the Applicant under the name PatcH2O™, or one or more natural moisturizing factor compounds or natural honey extracts, also sold by the Applicant under the name Melhydran™, and / or compounds from the family of glucosylglycerides, in particular hexosylglycerides, or an extract of Litchi chinensis peel under the name Litchiderm™ by the Applicant; They may optionally be used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, advantageously dermatological compositions, in combination with one or more other active agents with complementary effects selected from:

[0075] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition containing the extract according to the invention contains sarcosine and another sebum regulator selected from Orthosiphon stamineus extract, Bixa orellana extract, zinc gluconate and mixtures thereof, a moisturizer selected from Cassia angustifolia seed extract, a mixture containing hexosylglycerides, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the composition containing the extract according to the invention also contains an agent acting on the bacterial flora selected from Peumus boldus extract, a mixture containing pullulan, sodium alginate and sodium hyaluronate, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Cosmetic compositions comprising an extract according to the invention may also contain agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular a corn extract (such an extract is in particular sold by the applicant under the name Deliner™), agents for protecting the fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or its denaturation, in particular a Hibiscus abelmoschus extract, as described in the patent application filed in the name of the applicant under the name FR 0 654 316, and / or agents for stimulating fibroblast growth, for example an extract of fermented soybean containing a peptide known under the name Phytokine™, sold by the applicant and described in EP 1 119 344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), as well as, preferentially, a combination of these two extracts, agents stimulating the synthesis of laminin, in particular an extract of biotechnologically modified malt (such an extract is in particular sold by the applicant under the name Basaline™);Agents for stimulating the expression and / or activity of hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS2), such as plant extracts as described in patent application FR 2 893 252 A1, in particular aqueous extracts of galanga (Alpinia galanga), agents for stimulating lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) synthesis, such as those described in patent application FR 2 855 968, and in particular extracts of dill (Anethum graveolens), one or more antifouling agents, such as the extract of argan (Argania spinosa) leaves sold under the name Arganyl™ or the extract of horseradish (Moringa oleifera) seeds sold by the Applicant under the name Purisoft™, or the root extract of Eperua falcata, otherwise sold under the name Eperuline™, agents for stimulating intracellular ATP synthesis, in particular the extracts of the alga Laminaria digitata (Laminaria The cosmetic active ingredients may include cosmetic active ingredients well known for cosmetic compositions selected from the extract of Aster digitata, agents with overall anti-aging action, in particular anti-blemish agents, in particular niacinamide or vitamin B3, and any one of their mixtures;

[0077] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical or oral administration, advantageously the topical application, of an extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in said visibility, said process thus making it possible to make the skin smoother.

[0078] In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic care method is advantageously applied to the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen The method comprises topical application of the extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising the same to all or parts of the body and / or face selected from the following: the chest, neck, arms, trunk, back, face and / or scalp, more preferably the scalp and / or face, and even more preferably the face.

[0079] Examples that refer to the description are presented below. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes and do not limit the scope of the present invention in any way. Each example has a general scope. The examples form an integral part of the present invention, and any features that are believed to be novel compared to any prior art form an integral part of the present invention when the description, including the examples, is taken as a whole.

[0080] Unless otherwise indicated, temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius (° C.), the abbreviation "w" means weight, and the abbreviation "v" means volume. [Example]

[0081] The dry substances useful for preparing the extract according to the invention are of French origin.

[0082] Example 1: Preparation of E. angustifolium extract according to the invention Example 1a) A quantity of 15% by weight, based on the total weight of solvent and dry matter of the aerial parts, was macerated in water as the sole solvent for a period of 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C. The maceration was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract was in powder form.

[0083] Example 1b) A quantity of 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the solvent and dry matter of the aerial parts, was macerated in water as the only solvent for a period of 2 hours at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20° C. The maceration was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained is in liquid form.

[0084] Example 1c) The substance in an amount of 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solvent and dry matter of the aerial parts, was macerated in a water / ethanol mixture (20:80, v:v) at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. The maceration was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract was in powder form.

[0085] Example 1d) The dry matter of the leaves in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the leaves was macerated in water as the only solvent at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 24 hours. The maceration was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was then filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract was in powder form.

[0086] Example 2: Reducing the visibility of skin pores Example 2a): Increased protein expression of IGFBP3 protocol: "Normal" keratinocytes, i.e., non-pathological keratinocytes, from a healthy 19-year-old donor were cultured in defined medium (KSFM) at a temperature of 37°C (5% CO2 atmosphere) until confluence, and then E. angustifolium extract was added at a concentration of 5 × 10 to the final volume of the medium. -3 weight % and 2.5 x 10 -2 The extract was added to the medium at a concentration of 100% by weight. The same medium without the extract served as a control. The culture medium supernatant was collected by centrifugation, and then the protein expression of IGFB3 was measured by ELISA technique (LSBio Human IGFBP-3 ELISA Kit reference LS-F24538). The optical density was measured at 450 nm. The results were normalized to the control and represent the mean (MEAN) of six experiments (n=6) (SD: standard deviation).

[0087] result

[0088] [Table 1]

[0089] Conclusion: The results showed an increase in the protein expression of IGFB3 in keratinocytes, which is an indication of a reduction in hyperkeratinization and therefore of the ability of the E. angustifolium extract according to the invention to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent said visibility from increasing.

[0090] Example 2b): Increased protein expression of type IV collagen protocol: "Normal" human keratinocytes, i.e., keratinocytes without pathological conditions, from a healthy 24-year-old female donor were cultured in defined medium (KSFM) in the presence of different final concentrations of E. angustifolium for a period of 48 hours, after which the cell culture medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the present invention was used as a control (control). The resulting cell layer was dissolved with ammonium hydroxide solution, and type IV collagen was then assayed with an anti-type IV collagen antibody diluted 1 / 4000 in buffer solution (PBS). After a 90-minute period, a secondary antibody diluted 1 / 25000 was applied for a period of 60 minutes. After washing, a developer was added, and fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). Fluorescence results were normalized to the fluorescence obtained in the same cell culture medium in the absence of E. angustifolium extract (control) and related to the amount of DNA obtained under each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean of six assays (n=6) (SD: standard deviation).

[0091] result:

[0092] [Table 2]

[0093] Conclusion: E. angustifolium extract increased the protein expression of type IV collagen in the keratinocytes analyzed, demonstrating its ability to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent said visibility from increasing.

[0094] Example 3: Analysis of the reduction in the visibility of skin pores by measuring the area of ​​skin pores Protocol: A cosmetic formulation containing a final concentration of 0.20% by weight of E. angustifolium extract as prepared in Example 1a) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic formulation was applied twice daily to half the face of a human population of 34 women of Asian descent, aged 20 to 45 years, for a period of 56 days. The same cosmetic formulation containing water instead of E. angustifolium extract (control) was applied to the other half of the faces of the same population under the same conditions. Measurements were taken on D0 and D56 (day 56). Experts in the field, i.e., dermatologists, evaluated the halves of the faces of the 34 individuals to which the cosmetic formulation was applied, comparing these halves with the half to which the control formulation was applied. The results of the measurements of skin pore area can be found in Table III below.

[0095] result:

[0096] [Table 3]

[0097] Conclusion: The analysis showed a mean reduction in pore area of ​​9% in the presence of E. angustifolium extract after twice-daily application for 56 days.

[0098] Example 4: Cosmetic composition containing E. angustifolium extract according to the present invention Percentages are expressed by weight. E. angustifolium extract, Example 1a) 0.2% Water 19.8% Glycerin 80%

[0099] Example 5: Cosmetic formulation containing E. angustifolium extract according to the invention The extract used is that obtained in Example 1a). The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0100] [Table 4]

Claims

1. 1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in said visibility, comprising:

10. The cosmetic use, wherein the extract is an aqueous extract of the aerial parts of fireweed obtained using water as the only solvent.

2. 2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract maintains and / or increases the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein and maintains and / or increases the expression of the type IV collagen gene and / or protein.

3. 3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract makes the skin smoother.

4. The extract is 1×10 based on the total weight of the composition －４ 4. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of from 10% to 10% by weight.

5. The extract is 1×10 based on the total weight of the composition －４ 4. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of from 1% to 5% by weight.

6. The extract is 1×10 based on the total weight of the composition －３ The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is contained in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of from 100% to 3% by weight.

7. 7. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to all or parts of the body and / or face selected from the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen, chest, neck, arms, torso, back and face.

8. 1. A cosmetic care method for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in said visibility, the cosmetic care method comprising topical or oral administration of an extract of E. angustifolium or a cosmetic composition comprising the same, A beauty care method characterized in that the extract is an aqueous extract of the aerial parts of fireweed obtained using water as the only solvent.

9. 9. A cosmetic care method according to claim 8, comprising topical application of the fireweed extract or a cosmetic composition comprising the same.

10. 10. A cosmetic care method according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that it makes the skin smoother.

11. A cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that it comprises the topical application of an extract of E. angustifolium or a cosmetic composition comprising same to all or parts of the body and / or face selected from the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen, chest, neck, arms, trunk, back and face.

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