Cosmetics

The cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid derivatives, polyoxyalkylene glycols, and non-polar oils addresses stickiness and stability issues, providing a smooth feel and transparent formulations.

JP7744115B2Active Publication Date: 2025-09-25CBON
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2019052280
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2019-03-20
Publication Date
2025-09-25
Estimated Expiration
2039-03-20

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic formulations containing ascorbic acid derivatives suffer from stickiness and poor usability, particularly in transparent lotions, leading to impaired transparency and quality changes.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid derivatives, polyoxyalkylene glycols such as PPG-24 glycereth-24 or PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymers, and non-polar oily components like squalane, with specific weight percentages to reduce stickiness and enhance feel.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves reduced stickiness and improved feel, maintaining transparency and stability, suitable for transparent lotions and serums.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide cosmetics having reduced stickiness and a good feeling in use while containing an ascorbic acid derivative.SOLUTION: Cosmetics contain an ascorbic acid derivative, and polyoxyalkylene glycol containing PPG-24 glycereth-24 or PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymers.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing ascorbic acid. [Background technology]

[0002] Ascorbic acid has been used in cosmetics to prevent and improve skin aging caused by ultraviolet rays, etc., and age spots and freckles caused by melanin production. In recent years, various derivatives of ascorbic acid have been developed to improve its stability, and their application to various formulations is being investigated. However, when ascorbic acid derivatives are incorporated into cosmetics, they have problems such as poor usability due to stickiness upon application, etc. Therefore, in order to solve these problems, attempts have been made to improve the usability of topical skin preparations containing ascorbic acid derivatives.

[0003] For example, Patent Document 1 describes a method for reducing the sticky feeling characteristic of ascorbic acid glucoside by blending a specific polymeric silicone into an oil-in-water type skin topical preparation containing a fatty acid soap containing ascorbic acid glucoside.

[0004] However, the above method requires the use of a specific polymeric silicone, and depending on the formulation, the polymeric silicone may become unstable due to aggregation, precipitation, or floating. In particular, in formulations such as transparent lotions, the transparency of the formulation may be impaired, and undesirable changes in quality may occur, such as an impact on the appearance.

[0005] As described above, previous attempts have not been sufficient to reduce the stickiness of ascorbic acid derivatives, and further improvements have been desired. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-314455 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic that contains an ascorbic acid derivative, yet has reduced stickiness and a good feel when used. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises: an ascorbic acid derivative, polyoxyalkylene glycols, including PPG-24 glycereth-24 or PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymers; may also contain

[0009] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, The ascorbic acid derivative may comprise 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid or ascorbyl glucoside.

[0010] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, It may also contain a non-polar oily component and a non-ionic surfactant.

[0011] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, The nonionic surfactant may contain a fatty acid polyglyceryl.

[0012] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, The polyoxyalkylene glycol may be contained in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less.

[0013] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, The ascorbic acid derivative may be contained in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less. [Effects of the Invention]

[0014] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a cosmetic preparation that contains an ascorbic acid derivative, yet has reduced stickiness and a good feel when used. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] The cosmetic material of this embodiment may be a transparent or translucent liquid, and examples of the cosmetic material include lotion, serum, and emulsion.

[0016] The cosmetic may contain an ascorbic acid derivative and a polyoxyalkylene glycol. The polyoxyalkylene glycol may include PPG-24, glycereth-24, and / or PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymer. The cosmetic may not contain an oily component. If the cosmetic contains an oily component, an emulsion-type cosmetic may be provided. The polyoxyalkylene glycol may be contained in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less, with the lower limit being 0.2% by weight and the upper limit being 3% by weight, if further limited. The ascorbic acid derivative may be contained in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less, with the lower limit being 1% by weight and the upper limit being 2% by weight, if further limited.

[0017] The ascorbic acid derivative may contain 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and / or ascorbyl glucoside. Because 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is stable at a pH of 4.0 to 5.0, it is beneficial to provide a cosmetic having a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 when the ascorbic acid derivative is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Because ascorbyl glucoside is stable at a pH of 6.0 to 7.0, it is beneficial to provide a cosmetic having a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 when the ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl glucoside. Furthermore, when comparing 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid has a less sticky property than ascorbyl glucoside. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate may be used as the ascorbic acid derivative, but magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has a sticky property. Furthermore, the inventors have confirmed that when magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is used in cosmetics that consist of an emulsion, it is inferior in terms of storage stability compared to 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside. This is presumably due to the influence of the phosphate group and Mg contained in magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0018] As described above, the cosmetic may contain an oily component, and in that case, it may contain a surfactant such as a nonionic surfactant. By using such a surfactant, the oily component can be dissolved in the aqueous component. As will be shown in the examples below, from the viewpoint of storage stability, it is advantageous to use a nonpolar oily component as the oily component.

[0019] From the viewpoint of storage stability, it is advantageous to use a fatty acid polyglyceryl as the nonionic surfactant. Examples of the fatty acid polyglyceryl include polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate, but it is particularly advantageous to use polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 isostearate.

[0020] Examples of non-polar liquid oils include liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, ozokerite, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin, isoparaffin, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated polyisobutene, etc. However, among non-polar liquid oils, it is preferable to use squalane from the viewpoints of moisturizing properties and feel when used.

[0021] Polar oily components other than non-polar liquid oils such as squalane may include diisostearyl malate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tri(caprylic / capric acid)glyceryl, and the like.

[0022] The cosmetic material of the present embodiment may contain a solvent, and purified water, for example, can be used as the solvent.

[0023] [Example] Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be described.

[0024] Sample liquids (liquid cosmetics) described below were prepared as Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. The aqueous components in each sample liquid are as shown in Table 1 below. The numerical values ​​for each component shown in Tables 1 to 5 for these Examples and Comparative Examples indicate the weight percentage of the entire sample liquid. [Table 1]

[0025] For the ingredients shown in Table 1, the products listed below were used. Methylparaben: Mekxance M (Ueno Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) EDTA-2Na: Dissolvine Na2-S (Akzo Nobel) BG: Daicel Corporation (1,3 Butylene Glycol (13BGUK)) Glycerin: Concentrated glycerin for cosmetics (Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Industry Co., Ltd.) Sodium hyaluronate: Bio-sodium hyaluronate HA12N (Shiseido Co., Ltd.)

[0026] Liquid cosmetics were prepared by adding the components in Table 2 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Examples 1 to 5). Sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the sample liquid 100% by weight. In these Examples and Comparative Examples, "trisodium citrate (crystal) 50M (Showa Kako Co., Ltd.)" was used as the sodium citrate, and "citric acid (crystal) 32M (Showa Kako Co., Ltd.)" was used as the citric acid. [Table 2]

[0027] Liquid cosmetics were prepared by adding the components in Table 3 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Examples 6 to 10). As in Examples 1 to 5, sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts of these were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the total weight percent of the sample liquid 100%. [Table 3]

[0028] Sample solutions were prepared by adding the components in Table 4 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Comparative Examples 1 to 3). As in Examples 1 to 10, sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts of these were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the weight percent of the entire sample solution 100%. [Table 4]

[0029] For the ingredients shown in Tables 2 to 4, the following products were used. [Ascorbic acid derivatives] 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid: VC ethyl (Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.) Ascorbyl glucoside: AS-G (Hayashibara Co., Ltd.) Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: Ascorbic acid PM (Showa Denko K.K.) [Polyoxyalkylene glycol] PPG-24 Glycereth-24: Unilube 50TG-32 (NOF Corporation) Poloxamer 184: Pronon #184R (NOF Corporation) PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymer: Newpol PE-61 (Sanyo Chemical Industries) PPG-9 Diglyceryl: Unilube DGP-700F (NOF Corporation) PEG-8:PEG♯400 (NOF Corporation) [Oily ingredients] Squalane: Squalane (Kishimoto Special Cod Liver Oil Industry Co., Ltd.) Diisostearyl malate: Cosmol 222 (Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.) [Nonionic surfactants] Polyglyceryl-10 oleate: Decaglyn 1-OV (Nippon Surfactant Industry Co., Ltd.) Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate:S Face 10G-IS (Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil: Emanon CH-60(K) (Kao Corporation)

[0030] The following experiments were carried out on each of the sample solutions of Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[0031] [Storage stability] The transparency of the sample stored at 40°C for one month was evaluated visually in comparison with the sample stored at 5°C. ◎: Almost no change in transparency ○: There is a change, but the degree is small △: The degree of change is somewhat large ×: The degree of change is large and the transparency is low

[0032] [Sticky when applied] The average score was obtained from a four-point scale rated by five expert panelists. 4: Stickiness is significantly reduced 3: Less sticky 2: Not very sticky 1: Stickiness is barely suppressed

[0033] [Penetration feeling] The average score was obtained from a four-point scale rated by five expert panelists. 4: Very penetrating 3: Penetrating 2: Not much penetration 1: Poor penetration

[0034] The results of the above experiment are shown in Tables 5 to 7 below. [Table 5] In Example 4, the results were not very good in terms of stickiness and penetration, but this is thought to be due to the fact that the amount of PPG-24 glycereth-24 was 0.05 wt%, which was a very small amount. However, it is noteworthy that even though the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 was only 0.05 wt%, it was still able to receive a rating of "2" rather than the lowest rating of "1". In Example 5, the storage stability was poor, but this is thought to be due to the fact that the amount of PPG-24 glycereth-24 was 5 wt%, which was a large amount.

[0035] As can be seen from Examples 1 and 3, setting the PPG-24 glycereth-24 content in the range of 1% by weight to 3% by weight is beneficial in that it enables stickiness and penetration feeling to be maximized to a rating of "4," and is particularly beneficial when the cosmetic is used as a beauty serum, where a somewhat low storage stability in terms of transparency is unlikely to be a problem. On the other hand, when the PPG-24 glycereth-24 content is reduced to 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, as in Example 2, it is possible to achieve high storage stability in terms of transparency while maintaining relatively good stickiness and penetration feeling, and is therefore particularly beneficial when the cosmetic is used as a lotion.

[0036] It was confirmed from the results of Examples 2 and 4 that reducing the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 increases storage stability, but makes it difficult to obtain the effects of stickiness and penetration feeling. It was also confirmed that increasing the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 to about 5 wt % as in Example 5 makes it difficult to obtain the effects of stickiness and penetration feeling (the effects are reduced).

[0037] [Table 6] Although the storage stability of Example 9 was not excellent, this is thought to be due to the use of diisostearyl malate, a polar oily component. However, good results were also obtained in Example 9 with respect to stickiness and penetration. Furthermore, as can be seen from the comparison between Example 1, which used PPG-24 glycereth-24, and Example 8, which used PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymer, the use of PPG-24 glycereth-24 yielded superior results in terms of stickiness and penetration compared to the use of PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymer.

[0038] [Table 7] In the comparative example, despite using 1% by weight of polyoxyalkylene glycol, stickiness and penetration sensation were poor. When poloxamer 184 and PPG-9 diglyceryl were used, storage stability was also poor. When PEG-8 was used, stickiness and penetration sensation were rated at the lowest level of "1". From these results, it was confirmed that, among polyoxyalkylene glycols, the use of PPG-24 glycereth-24 and PEG / PPG-5 / 30 copolymer is particularly beneficial.

[0039] The above-mentioned embodiments and examples are merely examples for explaining the invention described in the claims. Furthermore, the claims as originally filed may be modified as appropriate within the scope of the patent specification, and the scope may be expanded or modified.

Claims

1. 0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid; 0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less of PPG-24 glycereth-24; Contains It does not contain D-pantothenyl alcohol and is a transparent or translucent liquid, It does not contain ascorbyl glucoside as an ascorbic acid derivative, A liquid cosmetic having a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 (excluding Rosa canina fruit extract, Aspalathus linearis leaf extract, and gels).

2. The liquid cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising a non-polar oily component and a nonionic surfactant.

3. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to claim 2 , wherein the nonionic surfactant contains a fatty acid polyglyceryl.

4. 4. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, which contains PPG-24 glycereth-24 in an amount of 1% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less.

5. 4. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, which contains PPG-24 glycereth-24 in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 0.5% by weight or less.

Citation Information

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