Water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetics
A water-based or oil-in-water cosmetic formulation using a porous spherical powder with a specific particle size and oil absorption, combined with a UV absorber, addresses the challenge of achieving high UV protection without compromising the fresh feel and stability of the cosmetic.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2018229841
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2018-12-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-01
- Estimated Expiration
- 2038-12-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-based and oil-in-water cosmetics face challenges in achieving high UV protection power while maintaining a fresh feel due to limitations with oil-soluble and water-soluble UV absorbers, which impair stability and moisturizing properties when used in high amounts.
Incorporating a porous spherical powder with a specified average particle size and oil absorption capacity, along with a UV absorber, to enhance UV protection without compromising the cosmetic's refreshing and moisturizing properties.
The cosmetic achieves high UV protection power with a minimal amount of UV absorber, maintaining a fresh feel and improved stability, while using a porous spherical powder as an amplifier of UV protection.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a water-type or oil-in-water cosmetic preparation. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-type or oil-in-water cosmetic preparation that achieves high UV protection power without incorporating a large amount of UV absorber by incorporating a porous spherical powder having a predetermined average particle size and oil absorption capacity. [Background technology]
[0002] Water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetics provide a refreshing and moisturizing feel when applied to the skin, and are therefore widely used as bases for external skin preparations, such as skin cosmetics, that are applied directly to the skin. In particular, as protecting the skin from ultraviolet rays has become a daily practice in skin care and body care, the importance of such UV care cosmetics based on water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetics is increasing.
[0003] Most UV absorbers incorporated into general sunscreen cosmetics are oil-soluble due to their UV absorption power, ease of handling, cost, etc. However, because oil-soluble UV absorbers cause stickiness, their incorporation in high amounts into water-type or oil-in-water cosmetics impairs the refreshing, moisturizing feel that is inherent in such cosmetics. For this reason, it is difficult to incorporate high amounts of oil-soluble UV absorbers into water-type or oil-in-water cosmetics.
[0004] Therefore, in order to maintain the freshness of water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetics, instead of incorporating a high amount of an oil-soluble UV absorber, a water-soluble UV absorber has been incorporated. However, since water-soluble UV absorbers generally have inferior UV protection power compared to their oil-soluble counterparts, it is difficult to achieve sufficient UV protection power even when a high amount of a water-soluble UV absorber is incorporated. Furthermore, when a water-soluble UV absorber is incorporated, there is a problem that the stability of the cosmetic composition is reduced due to the influence of the salt (neutralized salt) incorporated therewith. For this reason, it is preferable to avoid incorporating a high amount of a water-soluble UV absorber.
[0005] Under these circumstances, various attempts have been made to improve the UV protection power of water-type or oil-in-water-type cosmetics. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes that by blending one or more hydrophilic nonionic surfactants selected from fatty acid PEG glyceryl surfactants, hydrogenated castor oil surfactants, and PEG-PPG alkyl ether surfactants, it becomes possible to stably blend in a water-soluble UV absorber, thereby improving UV protection. Furthermore, Patent Document 2 proposes an oil-in-water emulsion sunscreen cosmetic that can incorporate a high amount of an ultraviolet absorber without impairing stability or the feel when used, by blending a specific organosiloxane derivative, polyethylene glycol stearate, and a higher alcohol in a specific ratio.
[0006] However, in order to fundamentally improve the effects on the stability of cosmetics, it is desirable to keep the amount of UV absorber itself to a minimum. Furthermore, in recent years, the environmental impact of UV absorbers has become an issue, and there is a need for technology that can achieve higher UV protection power with less UV absorber. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2008-162930 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-121947 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] The present invention aims to provide a water-type or oil-in-water-type cosmetic that has a fresh feel when used and high ultraviolet protection power. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] As a result of extensive research aimed at solving the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have discovered that the UV protection ability can be improved by blending a porous spherical powder having a predetermined average particle size and oil absorption, and have thus completed the present invention. In other words, the present invention is fundamentally different from the conventional method of enhancing the UV protection effect by simply increasing the amount of UV absorber added, and is based on the discovery that a porous spherical powder having a specified average particle size and oil absorption capacity functions as an improver or amplifier of UV protection power.
[0010] Thus, the present invention provides: (A) a porous spherical powder having an average particle size of 1 to 4 μm and an oil absorption of 160 ml / 100 g or less; (B) UV absorber The present invention provides a water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetic comprising: [Effects of the Invention]
[0011] By adopting the above-described configuration, the present invention can provide a high UV protection effect without incorporating a large amount of UV absorber, and therefore, a sufficient UV protection effect can be obtained with a small amount of UV absorber without impairing the inherently fresh feel that water-in-water or oil-in-water cosmetics have when used. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] As described above, the water-in-water or oil-in-water cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by containing (A) a porous spherical powder and (B) an ultraviolet absorber. Each component constituting the cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0013] <(A) Porous spherical powder> The porous spherical powder (A) (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "component (A)") blended in the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a predetermined average particle size and oil absorption capacity.
[0014] The average particle size of the (A) porous spherical powder is 1 to 4 μm, and more preferably 1.5 to 4 μm. If the average particle size is less than 1 μm, handling tends to be difficult, while if it exceeds 4 μm, a significant improvement in UV protection power cannot be achieved and the powder tends to feel too granular, making it difficult to use. The average particle size in the present invention is a value measured as the volume average particle size (D50) using a laser diffraction / scattering particle size distribution analyzer (MT3300EXII; Microtrack Bell) after adding 0.05 g of powder to 20 g of ethanol solvent and subjecting the mixture to ultrasonic dispersion for 1 minute using an ultrasonic homogenizer (US-150T; Nippon Seiki Seisakusho).
[0015] The oil absorption of the (A) porous spherical powder, measured according to JIS K5101-13-2 (boiled linseed oil method), is 160 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 50 to 160 ml / 100 g, and even more preferably 60 to 160 ml / 100 g. If the oil absorption is within the above range, the UV protection effect can be sufficiently improved.
[0016] The shape of the porous spherical powder (A) is spherical, and a perfect sphere is particularly preferred. The closer the shape of component (A) is to a perfect sphere, the more uniformly thick the cosmetic film can be formed on the skin, thereby achieving a greater UV protection effect. In the present invention, a true sphere means a particle that exhibits an approximately perfect circle when projected and viewed from any direction, and the minimum particle size is 80% or more, more preferably 90% or more, of the maximum particle size.
[0017] The material constituting the (A) porous spherical powder is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include silica (silicic anhydride), cellulose, etc., with silica being preferred. (A) Examples of commercially available silica powders that can be used as porous spherical powders include Godball E-6C and Godball B-6C (both manufactured by Suzuki Oil & Fat Industries Co., Ltd.), Silica Microbead P-500 (manufactured by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals Co., Ltd.), and Sunsphere L-31 (manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.).
[0018] The porous spherical powder (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types. The blending amount of component (A) is preferably 1 to 5 mass% and more preferably 2 to 4 mass% based on the total amount of the water-type or oil-in-water-type cosmetic. If the blending amount of component (A) is less than 1 mass%, the UV protection effect of component (A) tends to be insufficient, while if it is blended in more than 5 mass%, usability may be impaired.
[0019] <(B) UV absorber> The (B) ultraviolet absorber (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "component (B)") incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a water-soluble ultraviolet absorber and / or an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber that is typically incorporated into sunscreen cosmetics.
[0020] Examples of water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate, hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate, 4-(2-β-glucopyranosyloxy)propoxy-2-hydroxybenzophenone, phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, and terephthalidene dicamphorsulfonic acid.
[0021] Examples of oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers include 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4-tert-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]1,3,5-triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, oxybenzone, and dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone.
[0022] The component (B) may be used alone or in combination of two or more. In particular, by using a combination of one or more water-soluble UV absorbers and one or more oil-soluble UV absorbers, a higher UV protection power can be achieved.
[0023] The blending amount of component (B) is preferably 6 to 40% by mass, more preferably 8 to 35% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 30% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-water or oil-in-water cosmetic. If the blending amount of component (B) is less than 6% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient UV protection effect, and even if it is blended in more than 40% by mass, it is not possible to expect an increase in UV protection effect commensurate with the blending amount, and stability will be reduced, which is not preferable.
[0024] In addition to the above-mentioned essential components, the water-type or oil-in-water cosmetic of the present invention may contain, as needed, appropriate components commonly used in cosmetics, such as oils, water, alcohols, surfactants, oil-based active agents, aqueous active agents, thickeners, moisturizers, UV scattering agents, antioxidants, etc.
[0025] <Thickener> In particular, by incorporating a thickener, it is possible to form a coating film of the cosmetic on the skin with a sufficient thickness, and it is possible to achieve an even greater effect of improving ultraviolet protection. The thickener is not particularly limited as long as it is one that is used in cosmetics, but various hydrophilic thickeners such as natural water-soluble polymers, semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers, and synthetic water-soluble polymers are preferred.
[0026] Examples of natural water-soluble polymers include plant-based polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, galactan, guar gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (marmella), algae colloid (cassowia extract), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), and glycyrrhizic acid; microbial polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, and pullulan; and animal-based polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, and gelatin.
[0027] Examples of semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers include starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch; cellulose-based polymers such as methyl cellulose, nitrocellulose, ethyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; and alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate.
[0028] Examples of synthetic water-soluble polymers include vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer); polyoxyethylene polymers such as polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 1500, 4000, and 6000); polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer polymers; acrylic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide, and acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer (e.g., (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer); polyethyleneimine, and cationic polymers.
[0029] Among the thickeners, particularly preferred are acrylic polymers, xanthan gum, alkyl-modified cellulose, etc., and it is more preferred to use a combination of two or more of these.
[0030] When a thickener is blended, its amount is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-water or oil-in-water cosmetic. If the blending amount of the thickener is less than 0.01% by mass, the effect of the thickener may not be fully exerted, and if it is blended in more than 5% by mass, the cosmetic may feel heavy upon application.
[0031] The water-in-water or oil-in-water cosmetic of the present invention can be produced in accordance with a conventional method, and can be used as a sunscreen cream, sunscreen emulsion, sunscreen lotion, etc., as well as a lotion with sunscreen effect.
[0032] As described above, the present invention is based on the discovery that a porous spherical powder having a predetermined average particle size and oil absorption capacity functions as an improver or amplifier of ultraviolet protection power. Therefore, in another aspect, the present invention includes a method for improving the UV protection power of a water-type or oil-in-water-type cosmetic composition containing an UV absorber (B) by blending (A) a porous spherical powder. [Example]
[0033] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. Furthermore, the blending amounts in the following examples are expressed as % by mass unless otherwise specified. Before describing each example in detail, the evaluation methods employed will be described.
[0034] <Measurement of integrated absorbance (Abs) value> Each cosmetic sample was applied at 2 mg / cm to a measurement plate (S plate) (5 x 5 cm V-groove PMMA plate, SPFMASTER-PA01). 2 The absorbance of the formed coating was measured using a Hitachi U-3500 model recording spectrophotometer. An uncoated plate was used as a control, and the absorbance (Abs) was calculated using the following formula. The measured values from 280 nm to 400 nm were integrated to determine the integrated absorbance value. Abs=-log(T / To) T: transmittance of sample, To: transmittance of uncoated sample
[0035] From the obtained integrated absorbance values of the samples, the improvement rate of the UV protection power was calculated using the following formula, with the sample containing no powder (Comparative Example 1) as the standard. [Improvement rate of UV protection power (%)] = [integrated absorbance value of sample] / [integrated absorbance value of Comparative Example 1] × 100 The calculated improvement rate of the UV protection power was judged according to the following evaluation criteria. "Evaluation Criteria" A: UV protection improved by over 170% B: UV protection improved by 140-170% C: UV protection improvement rate: 105-140% D: UV protection improvement rate is less than 105%
[0036] <Usability> Each sample of the Examples and Comparative Examples was actually used by a panel of 10 experts, who evaluated its usability (non-stickiness, freshness). Each panelist gave a sensory evaluation on a 5-point scale according to the following evaluation criteria, and the total score was used to make a judgment based on the following evaluation criteria. "Evaluation criteria" 5: Excellent 4: Excellent 3: Normal 2: Inferior 1: Very poor "Evaluation Criteria" A: Total score is 40 or more B: Total score is 30-39 points C: Total score is 20-29 points D: Total score is 19 points or less
[0037] <Stability (rolling test)> Each sample of the Examples and Comparative Examples was filled into a cylindrical container, and a rolling test was carried out by rotating the container at room temperature at a speed of 45 rpm for 4 hours, and the degree of powder aggregation was visually observed. "Evaluation Criteria" A: No powder agglomeration was observed. B: Powder aggregation was observed, but it returned to a uniform state by stirring. C: Powder agglomeration was observed and did not become uniform even after stirring.
[0038] (Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 17) Oil-in-water cosmetics having the compositions shown in Tables 1a and 1b below were prepared by adding an aqueous phase obtained by mixing aqueous phase components with powder components and the like to an oil phase obtained by dissolving and mixing the oil phase components, and emulsifying by stirring. The integrated absorbance (Abs) values were measured according to the evaluation methods described above, and the UV protection power improvement effect, usability, and stability were evaluated.
[0039] [Table 1a]
[0040] [Table 1b]
[0041] *1: PEMULEN TR-2 (Lubrizol Advanced Materials) ((Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer content: 1%) *2: Carbopol 981 (Lubrizol Advanced Materials) (Carbomer content: 1%) *3: Keltroll (Kelco) *4: Emarex GWIS-160N (Nihon Emulsion Co., Ltd.) *5: TS Polymer 50-IP (Dow Corning Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.) *6:General formula H[OCH(CH3)CH2] n OH (average molecular weight: approx. 1000) *7: Silicone KF-96A-6T (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
[0042] As shown in Tables 1a and 1b above, by incorporating porous spherical powder with an average particle size of 1 to 4 μm and an oil absorption of 160 ml / 100 g or less, the integrated absorbance (Abs) value was significantly high, and it was confirmed that the UV protection power was excellently improved (Examples 1 to 4). On the other hand, when the average particle size or oil absorption did not satisfy the above numerical range, or when the particle shape was not spherical, the improvement in UV protection power was slight (Comparative Examples 1 to 17).
[0043] The formulations of the cosmetic of the present invention are exemplified below. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these formulation examples and is defined by the claims. All blend amounts are expressed in mass % relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
[0044] Formulation example 1: BB cream (Ingredient name) Compounding amount (mass%) Purified water remainder Ethanol 8 EDTA-2Na·H2O 0.05 Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.05 Citric acid 0.03 Sodium citrate 0.01 (Dimethylacrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate) Copolymer 0.3 Cellulose gum 0.2 Glycerin 2 Butylene Glycol 5 Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl Ether 1 Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (100 mol) 1 Polyoxyethylene (8 moles) behenyl ether 1 Sodium stearoyl methyl taurate 0.1 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 Behenyl alcohol 0.5 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10 Ethylhexyl triazine 1 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 1 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1 Isododecane 10 Caprylyl Methicone 5 Phytosteryl Octyldodecyl N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate 0.5 Dextrin (palmitate / ethylhexanoate) 0.5 Octyltriethoxysilane-treated zinc oxide particles (particle diameter 25 nm) 8 Pigment-grade alumina-treated titanium dioxide 4 Octyltriethoxysilane-treated iron oxide red, appropriate amount Octyltriethoxysilane-treated iron oxide yellow, appropriate amount Octyltriethoxysilane-treated iron oxide black (appropriate amount) Isostearic acid 0.5 Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 0.5 Fragrance (appropriate amount) Porous silica powder (average particle size 3.7μm, oil absorption 120ml / 100g) 3
Claims
1. (A) 1 to 5 mass% of porous spherical silica powder having an average particle size of 1 to 4 μm and an oil absorption of 50 to 160 ml / 100 g, (B) 8 to 35% by mass of an ultraviolet absorber; A water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetic that does not contain a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer.
2. 2. The water-in-water cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the porous spherical silica powder (A) is truly spherical.
3. 3. The water-in-water cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the ultraviolet absorber (B) comprises at least one water-soluble ultraviolet absorber and at least one oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber.
4. The water-type or oil-in-water type cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a thickener.
5. A method for improving the UV protection power of a water-based or oil-in-water-based cosmetic that contains 8 to 35 mass% of an ultraviolet absorber (B) and does not contain a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer, by blending 1 to 5 mass% of porous spherical silica powder (A) having an average particle size of 1 to 4 μm and an oil absorption of 50 to 160 ml / 100 g.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Oil-in-water type emulsion sunscreening cosmetic
JP2008162930A
Porous silica particle having surface smoothness, manufacturing process of the porous silica particle, and cosmetic mixed with the porous silica particle
JP2009137806A
Oil-in-water type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic
JP2013121947A
A UV blocking composition comprising a UV filter, an organopolysiloxane functionalized with a UV absorber, and porous silica and / or polymethyl methacrylate particles
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Sunscreen cosmetic
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