Compositions containing specific antioxidants, specific fatty acid esters, Bifidobacterium species lysate and yeast extract
A composition of antioxidants, fatty acid esters, Bifidobacterium lysate, and yeast extract addresses scalp microflora balance and hair issues, offering soothing and antioxidant benefits with improved hair cleanliness and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023578121
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-07-30
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-11
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-07-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic solutions are difficult to adapt for the scalp due to its unique microbiota and hair constraints, leading to discomfort and undesirable effects like greasiness and irritation, while maintaining scalp microflora balance is crucial.
A composition combining antioxidants, specific fatty acid esters, Bifidobacterium species lysate, and yeast extract, providing soothing and antioxidant effects to balance the scalp microflora and improve hair appearance and feel.
The composition maintains and restores scalp microflora balance, reduces irritation, and enhances hair cleanliness and appearance, while being stable and easy to apply.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to compositions comprising a combination of certain antioxidants, certain fatty acid esters, Bifidobacterium species lysate and yeast extract.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the scalp and / or hair, using said composition.
[0003] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of said composition for maintaining and even restoring the balance of the scalp microflora.
[0004] The present invention further relates to a device comprising one or more containers containing a composition according to the present invention. [Background technology]
[0005] Human skin, particularly the scalp, is composed of two compartments: the deep compartment, the dermis, and the superficial compartment, the epidermis.
[0006] The skin has a major role in protecting against external aggressions, such as environmental aggressions, adverse climatic influences (heat, cold, UV, tobacco, etc.), pollution, allergens, pathogenic bacteria, mechanical aggressions (hair removal, shaving, abrasive cleaning) and chemical aggressions (detergents). This property, known as the barrier function, is mainly performed by the outermost layer of the epidermis, namely the cornified layer known as the stratum corneum.
[0007] The skin also represents a complex ecosystem in which several types of microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, thrive. These microorganisms constitute the skin microbiota, also known as the skin microflora. Within this ecosystem, a balance exists between the various microbial species.
[0008] To date, over 500 bacterial species have been detected in healthy skin, with over 2 million genes. 2 Winning, about 106 There are bacteria.
[0009] In particular the following are identified: - Commensal resident microflora, consisting of microorganisms that traditionally grow on healthy skin, continuously absorbing nutrients from the skin, and confer known benefits to the skin; - Transient microflora that are present on the skin under abnormal conditions, for example, due to contact with polluting elements, and which can become pathogenic when they multiply.
[0010] If the barrier is adversely affected, for example after an external attack, or if the balance between commensals and pathogens is disrupted, adverse changes in the quality of the skin and / or skin lesions, such as stinging, pressure, itching, etc., can occur.
[0011] Furthermore, it is clear that the quality of the skin barrier is affected daily due to external aggressions from irritants (surfactants, acids, bases, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, concentrated solvents), mechanical stress (rubbing, shaving) or thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness).
[0012] Therefore, the (re)colonization of the skin by beneficial microorganisms of the commensal skin microbiota appears to be fundamental for skin physiology and immunity, in particular for its function of limiting the adhesion of microorganisms, especially pathogenic microorganisms, and for its role in repairing / restoring barrier function, especially after external insults such as those mentioned above.
[0013] Cosmetic solutions for acting on the skin microflora are already known, such as the use of compositions containing probiotics or the use of pullulan or one of its derivatives or a combination thereof with a polysaccharide, in order to maintain and / or preserve the balance of the skin and / or mucosal microflora.
[0014] However, these solutions are difficult to adapt for use on the scalp, particularly for the reasons set out below.
[0015] One of these reasons lies in the fact that the scalp microbiota is different from the microbiota of facial or body skin, which is mainly composed of five species of bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes, Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus epidermis, Streptococcus, and Neisseria). On the other hand, in the case of the scalp, the microorganisms present are mainly represented by three species: Malassezia restricta, Staphylococcus epidermis, and Cutibacterium acnes (also known as Propionibacterium acnes), which represent the majority of the scalp's microbial population.
[0016] Furthermore, two bacteria, Staphylococcus epidermis and Cutibacterium acnes, are common to the scalp and skin microbiota, but their relative proportions differ between the two, with these two bacteria accounting for 99% of the bacterial scalp microbiota but only 75% of the bacterial facial skin microbiota.
[0017] Therefore, the scalp microbiota exhibits a much lower diversity than the facial skin microbiota.
[0018] Furthermore, the higher density and / or longer length of keratin fibers (hair) on the scalp than those on the skin of the face or body (hair other than the head) poses further constraints, since the cosmetic treatments used must not adversely affect the appearance and / or feel of the hair, in particular they must not cause greasiness of the hair or hair roots and / or cause the hair to feel unpleasant and / or have an undesirable appearance.
[0019] Another point lies in the fact that the properties expected from a composition for the scalp may differ from those provided by a composition for the skin: the scalp may, for example, be excessively affected by dandruff, which can cause discomfort such as burning or a burning sensation, which is the result of the presence of an abnormal amount of Malassezia restricta, a microorganism that is naturally present on a healthy scalp, but whose excessive growth can cause discomfort.
[0020] There is therefore a real need to have available hair compositions that make it possible to maintain or restore the balance of the very specific symbiotic microflora of the scalp, while reducing or even eliminating the undesirable effects of discomfort such as tingling, itching and / or burning of the scalp, and leaving the hair and roots feeling clean, non-greasy and non-sticky, in line with consumer expectations for this type of product. Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]
[0021] It has been found that a composition comprising a combination of at least one antioxidant selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, at least one specific fatty acid ester, at least one Bifidobacterium species lysate, and at least one yeast extract makes it possible to achieve the above-mentioned objectives, and in particular to provide a composition that provides a soothing effect to the scalp and is able to maintain and even restore the balance of the scalp microflora while limiting the oxidation of sebum.
[0022] The subject of the present invention is therefore (i) one or more antioxidants selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives; (ii) one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan; (iii) one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products, or a mixture thereof, wherein the microorganism is in the form of a lysate; and (iv) extracts of one or more yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces; A composition comprising:
[0023] The compositions according to the invention in particular make it possible to maintain and even restore the balance of the symbiotic microflora of the scalp, while providing an antioxidant effect that can reduce the irritation and itching associated with sebum oxidation.
[0024] The composition according to the invention has a soothing and antioxidant effect on the scalp, and also inhibits the deposition of particles resulting from pollution on the scalp and / or hair.
[0025] The selection of the specific nonionic surfactants present in the composition makes it possible to obtain a composition that is particularly stable over time and that retains its properties for a long period of time. Furthermore, the inclusion of these oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan confers on the composition according to the invention an enhanced soothing effect on the scalp.
[0026] The microbiome of the skin, and in particular of the scalp, is therefore strengthened and even rebalanced after application of the composition of the invention and is better able to protect itself against external aggressions and counter discomfort.
[0027] The composition according to the invention further makes it possible to obtain beautiful hair, which appears neither greasy nor dry and has a clean and natural feel.
[0028] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to impart conditioning properties to the hair, in particular with regard to improving the volume of the hair, and in addition the hair has a natural, clean feel and appearance.
[0029] The compositions according to the invention are advantageously clear, even transparent, giving the user a particularly attractive aesthetic appearance.
[0030] Furthermore, it may have a gel texture or a serum-type texture, which makes its application to the scalp easier (no runny, collectable product).
[0031] The present invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, such as keratinous substances, the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.
[0032] In particular, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention makes it possible to maintain and / or restore the balance of the scalp's microflora.
[0033] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for maintaining and even restoring the balance of the scalp microflora.
[0034] The present invention further relates to a device comprising one or more containers containing a composition according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0035] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from reading the following description and examples.
[0036] In the following points, and unless otherwise indicated, particularly in the expressions "between" and "ranging from," the endpoints of a range of values are included within the range.
[0037] Furthermore, as used herein, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to the phrase "one or more."
[0038] Furthermore, the term "consisting of XOE" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an oxyethylenated compound containing X oxyethylene units per molecule.
[0039] (i) an antioxidant selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives; The composition according to the invention comprises one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
[0040] The term "antioxidant" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an agent which, when in contact with other chemicals, slows or prevents their oxidation.
[0041] The antioxidant is selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Preferably, the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside.
[0043] The total content of antioxidants (i) present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] In a preferred alternative form of the invention, the antioxidant (i) is an ascorbyl glucoside and the total content of ascorbyl glucosides present in the composition preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even better still from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] (ii) Oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan.
[0046] The oxyalkylene units of the fatty acid and sorbitan ester (ii) are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid and sorbitan ester (ii) used in the present invention is oxyethylenated.
[0047] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide advantageously ranges from 1 to 250, preferably from 1 to 100, more preferentially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 20.
[0048] Preferably, the oxyalkylenated esters (ii) of fatty acids and sorbitan are preferentially saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 30 Esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially of C8-C, preferably linear and saturated 18 Esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (containing 4 to 20 oxyethylene units), and mixtures thereof, and even better still, preferably linear saturated C 10 ~C 14 It is selected from esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (containing 4 to 10 oxyethylene units).
[0049] Such compounds are known in particular under the name polysorbates. They are sold, inter alia, by Uniqema under the name Tween. For example, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21) sold under the name Tween 21, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20) sold under the name Tween 20, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40) sold under the name Tween 40, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60) sold under the name Tween 60, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21) sold under the name Tween 20, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40) sold under the name Tween 40, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60) sold under the name Tween 61, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21) sold under the name Tween 21, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20) sold under the name Tween 20, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40) sold under the name Tween 40, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60) sold under the name Tween 60, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20) sold under the name Tween 61 ... Mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 61), polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan tristearate (polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 80) sold under the name Tween 80, polyoxyethylene (5OE) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 81) sold under the name Tween 81, and polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) sold under the name Tween 85.
[0050] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and sorbitan is a saturated fatty acid.
[0051] The oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (ii) are preferably selected from polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan tristearate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene (5OE) sorbitan monooleate and polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan trioleate, and preferentially from polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the oxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and sorbitan (ii) is polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate.
[0052] The total content of oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan (ii) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] In a preferred alternative form of the invention, the oxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and sorbitan (ii) is polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate, and the total content of polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate present in the composition preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] (iii) Bifidobacterium species The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more microorganisms (iii) of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products or a mixture thereof, wherein the microorganism is in the form of a lysate.
[0055] The term "metabolite" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean any substance resulting from the metabolism of a microorganism (iii) of the genus Bifidobacterium and having a protective effect on the scalp against oxidative stress.
[0056] The term "fraction" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean a fragment of the microorganism (iii) that, by analogy with the whole microorganism (iii), has the effect of protecting the scalp against oxidative stress.
[0057] The microorganism (iii) of the Bifidobacterium species is present in the composition of the invention in the form of a lysate.
[0058] Lysate generally refers to the material obtained after the destruction or lysis of living cells of a microorganism (iii) by a phenomenon called cell lysis, which results in the release of intracellular biological components naturally contained in the cells of said microorganism (iii).
[0059] In the context of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used without preference to denote the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism (iii) or only a fraction of said lysate. The lysate used is therefore made up entirely or partly of intracellular biological components as well as wall and cell membrane components.
[0060] More specifically, the lysate comprises the cytoplasmic fraction of the cells, which contains enzymes such as lactate dehydrogenase, phosphatase, phosphoketolase or transaldolase, and metabolic products. By way of example, components of the cell wall are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptides and teichoic acids, and components of the cell membrane are composed of glycerophospholipids.
[0061] The lysis of the cells can be carried out by various techniques, such as osmotic shock, heat shock, ultrasound, or under mechanical stress, such as centrifugation. More particularly, the lysate of the microorganism (iii) can be obtained according to the technique described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362, in particular according to the following protocol:
[0062] Microorganisms (iii) of the genus Bifidobacterium are preferably cultivated under anaerobic conditions in a suitable culture medium, for example, according to the conditions described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362 and European Patent No. 0,043,128. Once the stationary phase of growth has been reached, the culture medium may be inactivated, for example, by pasteurization at a temperature in the range of 60-65° C. for 30 minutes. The microorganisms thus formed are then collected by conventional separation techniques, such as membrane filtration or centrifugation, and then resuspended in a sterile physiological solution of NaCl.
[0063] The solution obtained above can then be subjected to ultrasonic disruption to release the cytoplasmic fraction, cell wall fragments, and metabolic products, thereby obtaining a lysate of these microorganisms. All components of their natural distribution are then stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution. The total content of active substances present in the lysate obtained by this process is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially 1% to 20% by weight, and even better still 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lysate.
[0064] The lysate can be used in various forms, in particular in the form of a solution or in the form of a powder.
[0065] Preferably, the microorganism (iii) of the Bifidobacterium species is selected from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] More preferentially, the microorganism (iii) of the Bifidobacterium species is the Bifidobacterium longum species.
[0067] In particular, lysates that can be used within the meaning of the present invention include components with the following INCI name: Bifidobacterium culture lysate.
[0068] Mention may be made in particular by way of example of the product sold by K. Richter GmbH under the name Repair Complex CLR®, which is made from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum.
[0069] The total content, expressed as dry extract, of lysates of microorganisms (iii) of the genus Bifidobacterium present in the composition of the invention is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] (iv) Extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces (iv).
[0071] Yeast can be prepared by culturing in a conventional yeast culture medium (e.g., 10 g / l yeast extract, 7 g / l peptone digested with pepsin, 20 g / l glucose, and enough water to reach 1 liter).
[0072] Preferentially, an aqueous yeast extract is selected, i.e., a yeast extract that is subject to unavoidable losses according to good manufacturing practices, which contains all the water-soluble components of the yeast after dissolution of the yeast and removal of membrane debris by filtration. This aqueous yeast extract is preferentially redissolved.
[0073] Preferably, the aqueous extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces according to the present invention is prepared by dissolving whole yeast of the genus Saccharomyces in water (preferably distilled water). The suspension thus obtained is then subjected to protein hydrolysis. The soluble and insoluble phases of the solution obtained after the hydrolysis are then separated, and the soluble phase is recovered. This soluble phase is then subjected to sterilization.
[0074] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous yeast extract thus obtained can then be used in powder form, optionally after drying. The extract, preferably in powder form, can also be placed in solution, in particular in a water / alcohol solution, preferably in a water / alcohol solution, more preferably in a water-glycol solution (e.g., a solution composed of a mixture of water and pentylene glycol) (in this case, the term yeast extract in solution is used). The content of aqueous yeast extract present in this solution is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably 2% to 7% by weight, and even better still 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.
[0075] The yeast extract used in the present invention preferably contains water, the content of which is advantageously at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 70% by weight and even better at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said extract.
[0076] Advantageously, the yeast extract in solution that can be used according to the invention meets the following characteristics: a pH between 5 and 8, preferably between 6 and 7, and / or sugars in an amount of 20 to 60 g per liter of solution (g / l), preferably 20 to 50 g / l, and more preferentially 25 to 35 g / l, and / or a solids (or dry matter) concentration of 10 to 60 g / l, preferably 20 to 50 g / l, more preferentially 37 to 47 g / l.
[0077] The whole yeast population used to prepare this aqueous yeast extract, i.e. the population before hydrolysis and / or sterilization, is preferentially 10 per milliliter of aqueous yeast solution. 5 ~10 10 Colony forming units (i.e. cfu / ml).
[0078] The aqueous yeast extract that can be used in the composition of the present invention preferably exhibits the following properties: a total nitrogen content (by Kjeldahl method) ranging from 5% to 15%, preferably from 6% to 12% and more preferentially from 7% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the yeast extract, and / or a total free amino acid content (according to the Sorensen method) ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the yeast extract. a mass ratio between the total content of assimilable amino nitrogen and the total nitrogen content present in said extract ranging from 0.4 to 0.7, preferably from 0.4 to 0.6 and more preferentially from 0.5 to 0.6.
[0079] The protein hydrolysis is preferentially carried out by chemical or acid hydrolysis or by using natural yeast enzymes, and is preferably carried out for at least 60%, more preferentially at least 80% and even better at least 90% of all proteins present in the yeast solution after lysis of the yeast.
[0080] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases obtained after protein hydrolysis can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, depending on the nature of the extract desired. This phase separation can be carried out, for example, by filtration, decantation or centrifugation, with filtration being the preferred method. Following this separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, the soluble phase is recovered.
[0081] Sterilization can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, in particular by sterile filtration, the latter preferably being carried out by the use of membrane filters, the pore size of which is chosen depending on the size of the membrane elements it is desired to remove, a technique well known to those skilled in the art.
[0082] Following this sterilization step, the resulting aqueous yeast extract can be dried to provide it in powder form, which can also be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as evaporation, freeze-drying or spray-drying.
[0083] The yeast of the genus Saccharomyces used in the present invention is preferably selected from the following species: Saccharomyces bailii, Saccharomyces carlsbergensis, Saccharomyces uvarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces exiguus, Saccharomyces fermentati, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fructuum, Saccharomyces heterogenicus, Saccharomyces oleaginosus, Saccharomyces rosei, Saccharomyces steineri, Saccharomyces boulardii, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces kluyveri, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] More preferentially, the yeast of the genus Saccharomyces is a yeast of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
[0085] Such a compound is known in particular under the INCI name: Yeast extract.
[0086] Advantageously, the extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces present in the composition of the invention does not contain live yeast.
[0087] An example of an extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces that can be used according to the invention is sold by Silab under the name Firmalift® GRV. The CAS number of this extract is 8013-01-2 and its EINECS / ELINCS number is 232-387-9. This extract is provided in the form of a solution in a water / pentylene glycol mixture.
[0088] When present in a composition according to the invention, the total content (as dry matter or active substance) of an extract of yeast (iv) of the genus Saccharomyces preferably ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] monosaccharide The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more monosaccharides.
[0090] The term "monosaccharide" within the meaning of this patent application refers to a monosaccharide containing at least 3 carbon atoms, preferably at least 5 carbon atoms, and having the formula C x (H2O) x (where x is an integer greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferentially greater than or equal to 6, in particular between 5 and 7 (inclusive), preferably x=6), which may be in the D or L configuration, in the α or β anomer, and also in their salts and solvates, for example hydrates.
[0091] Preferably, the monosaccharide is selected from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates (eg hydrates), and mixtures thereof.
[0092] More preferentially, the monosaccharide is chosen from mannose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof, and even better from mannose.
[0093] Mannose is a monosaccharide (simple non-hydrolyzable sugar) consisting of six carbon atoms; it is a hexose. Its empirical formula is CH, the same as glucose. 12 O6 and is a C2 epimer (i.e., its spatial configuration is exactly the same as glucose, except for the substituent on carbon 2, which is reversed compared to glucose). Mannose corresponds to the following formula (I), which also includes its enantiomers: [ka]
[0094] Mannose can also be provided in solvated forms (including hydrates) and in the form of a mixture of D and L stereoisomers, referred to as DL-mannose.
[0095] Preferably, the monosaccharide is D-mannose of formula (II) below: [ka]
[0096] D-mannose occurs naturally in plants, especially certain fruits, including cranberries, and hardwoods such as beech and birch.
[0097] As examples of D-mannose suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the D-mannose sold by Danisco Sweeteners® or Symrise®.
[0098] Rhamnose (or 6-deoxymannose) formally constitutes the deoxygenation product of mannose at C6. Rhamnose naturally occurs in the L form. L-rhamnose products are sold, for example, by Danisco Sweeteners® and by Symrise.
[0099] Preferably, the monosaccharide is chosen from mannose, its α or β anomer, its optical isomers in the L or D configuration, its solvates and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the monosaccharide is D-mannose.
[0100] If monosaccharides are present in the composition of the invention, their total content preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more monosaccharides, preferably chosen from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, the mass ratio of the total content of antioxidants (i) to the total content of monosaccharides present in the composition of the invention is greater than or equal to 1 and more preferentially ranges from 1 to 5.
[0102] Even better, when the composition comprises ascorbyl glucoside and mannose, the mass ratio of the total content of ascorbyl glucoside to the total content of mannose present in the composition of the present invention is preferably 1 or more, more preferentially in the range of 1 to 5.
[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more monosaccharides, preferably chosen from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, and better still from mannose, and its α or β anomers, its optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] Added sugars The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional sugars different from the monosaccharides defined above, selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
[0105] The term "polysaccharide" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean a glycoconjugate, that is a polymer composed of several units n of monosaccharides as defined above linked by glycosylation bonds, the number n being greater than or equal to 11, preferably between 11 and 200, more preferentially between 11 and 100, and even better still between 20 and 80. As an example of a polysaccharide, mention may be made in particular of inulin.
[0106] The term "oligosaccharide" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an oligomer composed of several units n of monosaccharides as defined above, via one or more α- or β-glycosidic bonds, the number n being between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 6. Examples of oligosaccharides that may be mentioned include, in particular, fructooligosaccharides, glucooligosaccharides, oligosaccharides of soybean origin, pyrodextrins, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides and transgalactooligosaccharides.
[0107] Preferably, the additional sugars are selected from inulin, fructooligosaccharides, glucooligosaccharides, soybean-derived oligosaccharides, pyrodextrin, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides, transgalactooligosaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] The oligosaccharides and polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention are carbohydrates.
[0109] Usable oligo- and polysaccharides can be made in particular from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, saccharose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums, in particular acacia gum, or mixtures thereof.
[0110] Examples include the following oligosaccharides and / or polysaccharides:
[0111] - Inulin Inulin is particularly abundant in plants, especially Jerusalem artichoke and chicory rhizomes, from which it is extracted industrially. It is also found in other plants of the Asteraceae family, such as dahlia onion and burdock. It is considered a soluble dietary fiber.
[0112] Inulin is a polydisperse linear polymer with the general formula (III) (also shown below): GFn, where G is a glucose unit, F is a fructose unit, and n varies from 2 to 60 and can even be greater than 60, in which the fructose units are linked by β(2→1) bonds. Inulin therefore corresponds to a chain of fructose units terminated by a glucose unit. [ka]
[0113] Among the inulins that can be used and are commercially available, mention may in particular be made of Inutec H25P (n=2-7) and Inutec N25 (average n=25) from Orafti.
[0114] - Fructooligosaccharides Fructooligosaccharides (or FOS), also called oligofructose or oligofructans, are short chains of fructose linked by β-1,2 bonds. Fructooligosaccharides (or FOS) correspond to the general formula: G(F)n, where G is a glucose unit, F is a fructose unit, and n ranges from 1 to 10.
[0115] Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are by partial enzymatic hydrolysis of inulin (for example Raftilose® from Orafti-Belgique), by enzymatic synthesis starting from sucrose (for example Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries—France), or - Extraction from yacon or jicama (Polymnia sonchifolia, synonym: Smallanthus sonchifolia) (extraction is carried out by cold pressing of the yacon tubers, in particular in the absence of solvents).
[0116] The fructooligosaccharides (FOS) that can be used in the present invention are preferably FOS mixtures, in particular GF2+GF3+GF4 mixtures such as Quantum FOS95 from Quantum hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries - France, the latter corresponding to a mixture of 37% GF2, 53% GF3 and 10% GF4.
[0117] - Glucooligosaccharides Glucooligosaccharides (GOS) or oligoglucans are oligosaccharides composed of sequences of α-1,6-linked glucose units that may contain α-1,2, α-1,3, or α-1,4 linkages. They are synthesized by transglycosylation reactions catalyzed by enzymes of the glucansucrase family.
[0118] Preferably, glucooligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of a sequence of α-1,6- and α-1,2-linked glucose units.
[0119] Advantageously, the number of glucose units is between 2 and 10, preferably between 4 and 6, and more preferentially the number of glucose units is 4.
[0120] Furthermore, glucooligosaccharides can be synthesized by the polymerization of glucose molecules, a reaction catalyzed by specific enzymes of the glycosyltransferase type extracted and purified from the bacterial strain Leuconostoc mesenteroides. This reaction requires the use of an acceptor: maltose (glucose-glucose) and a glucose donor: sucrose (glucose-fructose).
[0121] In a preferred embodiment, the glucooligosaccharides (GOS) have the following formula (V): [ka]
[0122] Among the GOS that can be used and are commercially available, mention may be made of the Bioecolia® product from Solabia.
[0123] - Soybean-derived oligosaccharides These oligosaccharides are extracted directly from soybeans and do not require any enzymatic treatment. They naturally contain raffinose and stachyose and have the formula: [α-D-Gal-(1→6)-] m -α-D-Glu-(1→2)-β-D-Fru (raffinose has m=1, stachyose has m=2).
[0124] Among the oligosaccharides that can be used, mention may be made in particular of Soya-oligo from Calpis Food Ind. (Japan).
[0125] - Pyrodextrin Pyrodextrins are mixtures of oligosaccharides resulting from the hydrolysis of starch.
[0126] - Isomaltooligosaccharides Isomaltooligosaccharides are produced from starch. They are α-(1,6)-linked glucose oligomers with a degree of polymerization of 2 to 5. For example, Showa Sango's Isomalto 900P can be used.
[0127] - Xylooligosaccharides Xylooligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of xylose units linked by β-(1,4) bonds. For example, Xylo 95P from Suntory Limited can be used.
[0128] - Transgalactooligosaccharides Transgalactooligosaccharides (or TOS) are derived from the fermentation of lactose and have the chemical structure α-D-glucose-(1→4)-[β-D-galactose-(1→6)]. n It is a linear oligomer of galactose (n=2-5).
[0129] For example, TOS 100 from Yakult Honsha Co., Ltd. (Japan) can be used.
[0130] If additional sugars different from monosaccharides, chosen from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, are present in the composition of the invention, their total content preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 20% by weight, even better from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional sugars different from the monosaccharides, selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
[0132] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises a mixture of at least one oligosaccharide and / or at least one polysaccharide, in other words, a mixture of at least two oligosaccharides, a mixture of at least two polysaccharides, or a mixture of at least one oligosaccharide and at least one polysaccharide.
[0133] According to a first alternative of this embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two oligosaccharides of the same type. For example, as mentioned above, a mixture of FOS can be used, in particular a mixture of GF2+GF3+GF4, such as Quantum FOS95 from Quantum hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries-France, the latter corresponding to a mixture of 37% GF2, 53% GF3 and 10% GF4.
[0134] According to a second alternative of this embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of different oligosaccharides and / or polysaccharides. The invention particularly relates to the use of a mixture of inulin with GOS, FOS, soybean-derived oligosaccharides, pyrodextrin, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides and / or transgalactooligosaccharides. Preferably, a mixture of inulin and GOS is used, such as Bioline from Gova Ingredients. The composition can also comprise a mixture of GOS and FOS.
[0135] Preferably, according to a second alternative of this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS), and - at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising the total content of glucooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; The total content of fructooligosaccharides (FOS) ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.02% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 1% by weight, even better from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] Advantageously, in a second alternative of this particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS), and - at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising The mass ratio of the total content of glucooligosaccharides to the total content of fructooligosaccharides ([GOS / FOS] ratio) is not less than 2. Preferably, the mass ratio is in the range of 2-4, more preferentially in the range of 3-4.
[0137] In particular, a mixture of prebiotic oligosaccharides and probiotic microorganisms sold under the name Ecoskin® by Solabia can be used. - 60% to 80% by weight of at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture, and - 10% to 25% by weight of at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture Includes.
[0138] In particular, the mixture comprises 70% by weight of glucooligosaccharides (GOS), 19% by weight of Polymnia sonchifolia tuber juice, 1% by weight of Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei, and 10% by weight of maltodextrin.
[0139] Probiotic microorganisms The composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more probiotic microorganisms different from the microorganism (iii) of the Bifidobacterium species defined above.
[0140] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "probiotic microorganisms" is understood to mean live microorganisms which, when consumed in suitable amounts, have a positive effect on the health of their host (Joint FAO / WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, 6 October 2001) and may in particular improve the intestinal microbial balance.
[0141] In the case of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the skin or scalp, the probiotic microorganisms are probiotic microorganisms that, when applied to the keratinous material in a suitable amount, have a positive effect on the aesthetic qualities of the keratinous material.
[0142] Preferably, the probiotic microorganisms that can be used according to the invention are selected from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as, in particular, Lactobacillus species, and mixtures thereof, such as Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and mixtures thereof.
[0143] Advantageously, the probiotic microorganism is selected from the group consisting of Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactobacillus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus delbrueckii, Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillus salivarius, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus sakei, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus buchneri, Lactobacillus fermentum fermentum, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus longum, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] The probiotic microorganisms may be present in the compositions according to the invention in live, semi-active or inactivated (killed) form. They may also be present in the form of fractions of cellular components or in the form of metabolic products. The probiotic microorganisms or metabolic products or fractions may also be introduced in the form of a lyophilized powder, in the form of a culture supernatant and / or, if appropriate, in concentrated form.
[0145] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, these microorganisms are in an inactivated form.
[0146] The terms "inactivated form", "non-regenerative morphotype" and "dead form" are synonymous herein. Bacteria in "semi-active form" are bacteria that have partially or completely lost their pathogenicity.
[0147] If probiotic microorganisms other than microorganism (iii) are present in the composition according to the invention, their total content advantageously ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.001% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] This or these microorganisms may be present in the composition according to the invention in live, semi-active or inactivated (dead) form, preferably inactivated, for example by heat or high pressure.
[0149] When the microorganisms are incorporated into the composition in viable form, the amount of live microorganisms is preferably 10 3 ~10 15 cfu / g, more preferentially 10 5 ~10 15 cfu / g, or even better 10 7 ~10 12 The microorganisms per gram of composition may range from cfu / g.
[0150] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: one or more glucooligosaccharides (GOS), and - One or more fructooligosaccharides (FOS) a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising the total content of glucooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; The total content of fructooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.001% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 0.01% by mass, more preferentially 0.01% to 1% by mass, even better 0.01% to 0.5% by mass, and even more preferentially 0.05% to 0.3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0151] According to this embodiment, the composition of the invention preferably further comprises one or more probiotic microorganisms selected from bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, more preferentially Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and mixtures thereof, and the total content of probiotic microorganisms is advantageously in the range of 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferentially 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises: one or more glucooligosaccharides (GOS), and - One or more fructooligosaccharides (FOS) a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising The mass ratio of the total content of glucooligosaccharides to the total content of fructooligosaccharides ([GOS / FOS] ratio) is not less than 2. Preferably, the mass ratio is in the range of 2-4, more preferentially in the range of 3-4.
[0153] By way of example, it is possible to use in particular the mixture of prebiotic oligosaccharides and probiotic microorganisms sold by Solabia under the name Ecoskin®. - 60% to 80% by weight of at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture, - 10% to 25% by weight of at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture, and - 0.001% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture, of at least one probiotic microorganism selected from Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and mixtures thereof Includes.
[0154] In particular, the mixture comprises 70% by weight of glucooligosaccharides (GOS), 19% by weight of Polymnia sonchifolia tuber juice, 1% by weight of Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei, and 10% by weight of maltodextrin.
[0155] Nonionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants different from the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (ii) defined above.
[0156] These surfactants can particularly contribute to maintaining the clarity or transparency of the composition.
[0157] Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the invention are described, for example, in M.R. Porter's Handbook of Surfactants, 1991, pp. 116-178, published by Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London. They are in particular alcohols, α-diols, (C1-C 20 ) alkylphenols or fatty acids, which compounds are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have, for example, at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 30.
[0158] As nonionic surfactants other than the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitol (ii) that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following nonionic surfactants: - Oxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C 30 fatty acid amides; - Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C 30 esters of acids with polyols or polyethylene glycols; - esters of fatty acids with sucrose; - (C8~C 30 ) Alkyl (poly)glucosides, (C8-C 30 ) alkenyl (poly)glucosides (which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and contain 1 to 15 glucose units), (C8 to C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucoside esters; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; - N-(C8~C 30 ) alkyl glucamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; - aldobionamide; - amine oxides; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and mixtures thereof.
[0159] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0160] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably in the range of 1 to 250, more particularly 2 to 100, and even better 2 to 50, and the number of moles of glycerol is in particular in the range of 1 to 50, and even better 1 to 10.
[0161] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants other than the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol (ii) according to the invention do not contain oxypropylene units.
[0162] Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants include monoglycerated or polyglycerolated C8-C8 surfactants containing 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol. 40 Alcohol can be used.
[0163] Glycerolated alcohols, C8 / C containing 1 mole of glycerol 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mole of glycerol 10 / C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 moles of glycerol 12 It is particularly preferred to use alcohol.
[0164] The nonionic surfactants other than the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol (ii) that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen from: - oxyethylenated C8-C containing 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 moles, more particularly 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; 40 alcohol; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide; - optionally oxyalkylenated (0-10EO) and containing 1-15 glucose units (C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucosides; - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C containing 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C 30 fatty acid amides; - saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C 30 esters of acids with polyols or polyethylene glycols; - and mixtures thereof.
[0165] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant other than the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitol (ii) is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, preferentially oxyethylenated C8-C 40 They are selected from alcohols, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 moles, preferably 2 to 50 moles, of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] The total content of nonionic surfactants other than the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol (ii) is preferably in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 3% by weight and even better still 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water, advantageously with a total water content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0168] The composition according to the invention can further comprise one or more linear or branched monoalcohols, advantageously having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof, and better still from ethanol.
[0169] The monoalcohols that can be used according to the invention are linear or branched and therefore neither cyclic nor aromatic.
[0170] Said monoalcohols may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 12% to 30% by weight and even better from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more organic solvents different from the monoalcohols mentioned above, which may be chosen from polyols, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Examples of organic solvents other than the above-mentioned monoalcohols that can be used according to the invention include, in particular, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0173] If organic solvents other than the above-mentioned monoalcohols are present in the composition of the present invention, their total content is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, in particular chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, the composition is an aqueous / alcoholic composition.
[0175] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0176] The compositions according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional compounds different from those defined above, preferably chosen from cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, thickeners, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifiers, lubricants (or anti-caking agents) and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Preferably, when the above-mentioned additional compounds are present in the composition according to the invention, they are generally present in a content of, for each of them, between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0178] In an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more antidandruff agents and / or one or more agents for preventing hair loss.
[0179] Of course, one skilled in the art will be careful to select this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties inherent in the compositions of the present invention are not adversely affected, or are not substantially affected, by the anticipated addition.
[0180] The optional thickening agent may be selected from inorganic or organic thickening agents. The thickening agent may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0181] Thickeners that can be used according to the invention include, in particular, carboxyvinyl polymers such as crosslinked acrylic acid polymers and / or crosslinked methacrylic acid polymers, in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (carbomers), such as those sold under the name Carbopol by Goodrich, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the name Lubrajel or Norgel by Guardian or the products sold under the name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides, such as the products sold under the name Sepigel 305 by SEPPIC; polysaccharides such as alginates, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and microcrystalline cellulose; natural gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan; or clays, such as montmorillonite and derivatives, bentones and derivatives, or magnesium aluminum silicate and derivatives (Veegum).
[0182] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid polymers and / or crosslinked methacrylic acid polymers.
[0183] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid polymers.
[0184] When thickeners are present in the composition of the invention, their total content preferably ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0185] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when the composition is aqueous, can advantageously vary from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8 and more preferentially from 6.5 to 7.5.
[0186] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to a desired value using a commonly used basifying or acidifying agent. Examples of basifying agents include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, or inorganic or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
[0187] The compositions according to the invention are preferably applied topically, in particular to the scalp and / or hair.
[0188] Compositions intended for administration by the external topical route may be solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, solutions or dispersions of the cream type, or aqueous gels. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
[0189] Preferably, the composition for the topical route according to the invention can be advantageously formulated in any presentation form suitable for hair and / or scalp care, in particular in the form of a hair lotion, a shampoo (especially an antidandruff shampoo), a conditioner, a disentangler, a hair cream or gel, a treatment lotion, a lotion or gel for preventing hair loss, an antiparasitic shampoo, a treatment shampoo (especially an antiseborrheic shampoo) or scalp care (especially an anti-irritant product, a restructuring product).
[0190] The composition according to the invention is advantageously provided in a thickened, indeed gelled, form, in particular in the form of a thickened, indeed gelled, lotion or in the form of a thickened, indeed gelled, serum.
[0191] The composition according to the invention is advantageously provided in the form of a clear to transparent liquid, preferably a transparent liquid.
[0192] The clarity of the compositions of the present invention can be characterized by measuring the turbidity of the composition by nephelometry (in NTU units). In the context of the present invention, turbidity measurements were performed using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer available from Agilent. The turbidity of the compositions can also be measured using a turbidimeter such as the HI 88713-ISO model manufactured by Hanna Instruments.
[0193] Advantageously, the turbidity of the composition according to the invention, measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferentially less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 50 NTU units, even more preferentially less than or equal to 20 NTU units, or even less than or equal to 10 NTU units.
[0194] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of their fractions, one of their metabolic products or a mixture thereof, the microorganisms being in the form of a lysate, - extracts of one or more yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, - one or more monosaccharides, - optionally one or more additional sugars selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, - Water, and - optionally one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Includes.
[0195] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C alkyl esters containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units; 30 one or more esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, and mixtures thereof; one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and mixtures thereof (more preferentially, the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside), one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of their fractions, one of their metabolic products or a mixture thereof, the microorganisms being in the form of a lysate, - extracts of one or more yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, one or more monosaccharides selected from mannose, its α or β anomer, its optical isomer in the L or D configuration, its solvates and mixtures thereof, one or more additional sugars selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, - Water, and - one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms Includes.
[0196] Another subject of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the scalp and / or hair, comprising the application of a composition as defined above to said keratinous materials.
[0197] Optionally, application of the composition may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation after an optional leaving period.
[0198] Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by a rinsing operation.
[0199] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment regimen is a hair care regimen.
[0200] The present invention further relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for maintaining and even restoring the balance of the scalp microflora.
[0201] The present invention further relates to a device comprising one or more containers containing a composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0202] The device may further comprise at least one dispensing member that allows dispensing of the composition, which may be, for example, a dispensing orifice or an applicator.
[0203] The distribution organ can be adjacent to the container (in which case the device consists of only one part), or the device can also be made up of several parts, for example the container on the one hand and the distribution organ on the other hand.
[0204] Thus, the device may comprise at least one dispensing orifice that allows dispensing of the composition. The dispensing orifice may be closed by a closure member.
[0205] The device may therefore comprise an applicator to facilitate application of the composition, which may be, for example, a comb, a fine or coarse brush, or even a pipette, felt or dropper.
[0206] Advantageously, the composition is applied directly using the device, through a dispensing orifice optionally including an applicator. In other words, the composition is not incorporated into the device. The device of the invention therefore makes it possible to facilitate the application of the composition and to improve the speed of reconstitution of said composition.
[0207] Advantageously, no pumps or propellants are required to apply and dispense the composition. The composition flows by gravity through the dispensing orifice. If necessary, pressure can be applied to the container to facilitate the flow and dispensing of the ready-to-use composition.
[0208] The device may advantageously be a dropper optionally combined with a bottle, a pump action spray, a bottle, a pipette, for example a single dose pipette, or the like.
[0209] The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the present invention. [Example]
[0210] 1. Example 1: Compositions A and B according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients, the contents of which (as % by weight of active substance unless otherwise indicated) are given in the table below:
[0211] [Table 1]
[0212] The resulting composition is clear and can be applied to the scalp and hair and then allowed to dry in the open air without a rinsing step after application. The composition has a pH of about 7.
[0213] After 21 days of daily use of these compositions, a significant reduction in scalp discomfort (stinging, burning) and frequency of scratching was observed.
[0214] The composition does not make the hair and / or hair roots greasy, nor does it cause the hairs to stick together, leaving the hair clean.
[0215] 41 volunteers were asked to self-assess the effectiveness of the product on hair and scalp at T0 (immediately after application) and T21.
[0216] The following result is obtained: Immediately after application: - The product leaves the scalp feeling refreshed, - The scalp is moisturized, - Reduced burning, itching and / or tingling sensations: After 21 days of application: - The product leaves the scalp feeling refreshed, - The scalp is comfortable, moisturized, less susceptible to irritation and soothed, - Reduced burning, itching and / or tingling sensations: The product gives a feeling of well-being and its texture is pleasant.
[0217] 2. Example 2: The study was conducted on 42 male and female volunteers aged 18-60 years with sensitive scalps.
[0218] Volunteers applied 4.5 ml of composition A of Example 1 to dry hair over the entire scalp at home under normal use conditions daily for 21 days (D1 to D21) according to the following protocol: - Define three lines from the forehead to the nape of the neck: one on the right, one in the middle, and one on the left. - Apply 4.5ml of serum and place the product on these three lines, touching them as evenly as possible. - Use your fingertips in a circular motion to spread the product over your scalp.
[0219] The following measurements were made on D0 (before the start of application) and D21 (21 days after application).
[0220] (a) Evaluation of the effect of scrubbing (quantity [SQOOH] analyzed by LC / MS) removal method on biochemical markers in delimited areas of the scalp: The assessment of the oxidation of squalene, a known irritant, is measured between D0 and D21.
[0221] The following results are obtained (amount of SQOOH (ng / mg protein)):
[0222] [Table 2]
[0223] A significant decrease in the assessment of squalene oxidation is observed.
[0224] (b) Evaluation of the effect of the composition on the skin barrier: This assessment is based on instrumental measurement of scalp skin TEWL (transepidermal water loss) levels, measured using a Vapometer® at 2.25 cm while maintaining imperceptible water loss. 2 was performed on a small surface area, i.e. a square with a side length of 1.5 cm (maximum of 6 accurate measurements per experimental period):
[0225] The following results are obtained (TEWL measurement, gm -2 .h -1 (represented by ).
[0226] [Table 3]
[0227] No significant difference in the barrier function of the scalp between D0 and D21 is observed: the barrier function is preserved (not adversely affected) by the use of the composition according to the invention.
[0228] (c) Evaluation of the effect of the composition on reducing scalp discomfort (itching, tingling, burning): Each factor of discomfort was rated on a scale of 0 to 9 by 42 volunteers on D0 (before application), D0 imm (immediately after the first application of the product) and D21.
[0229] A grade of 9 corresponds to a high level of discomfort, and a grade of 0 corresponds to a zero level of discomfort with respect to the factor assessed.
[0230] The following result is obtained:
[0231] [Table 4]
[0232] A significant reduction in scalp discomfort is observed from the first application, with a substantial reduction observed after three weeks of application.
[0233] 3. Example 3: Composition C (according to the invention) and composition C' (comparison) were prepared from the following ingredients, the contents of which (as % by weight of active substance (AM) unless otherwise indicated) are given in the table below:
[0234] [Table 5]
[0235] Composition C according to the invention is visually clear, whereas comparative composition C' is opaque.
[0236] Furthermore, composition C is more fluid than composition C', and therefore composition C is more easily distributed on the hair and scalp than composition C'.
[0237] Natural locks of hair (5.4 g) were pre-washed with DOP chamomile shampoo at a rate of 0.4 g shampoo per gram of hair, followed by rinsing.
[0238] Compositions E and E' were each applied to wet locks of natural hair at a rate of 0.15 g of composition per gram of hair, and the locks were then dried with a hairdryer (without rinsing).
[0239] Six experts then visually and relatively rated the volume imparted to the hair on a scale ranging from 0 (no volume, hairs tightly packed, locks taking up little volume in the space) to 5 (lots of volume, hairs loosely together, locks taking up a lot of volume in the space).
[0240] The following results were obtained:
[0241] [Table 6]
[0242] Composition C according to the invention provided significantly more volume to the hair compared to comparative composition C'.
[0243] According to all experts, the locks treated with composition C according to the invention have a more natural feel and a cleaner appearance than the locks treated with comparative composition C'.
Claims
1. (i) one or more antioxidants selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives; (ii) one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan; (iii) the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium selected from Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium and mixtures thereof, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or a mixture thereof, said microorganisms being in the form of a lysate and expressed as a dry extract, the total content of which ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iv) one or more extracts of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces A composition comprising:
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant (i) is ascorbyl glucoside.
3. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the antioxidants (i) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (ii) may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is chosen from esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan containing from 1 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures thereof.
5. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan (ii) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the microorganism (iii) of the genus Bifidobacterium is Bifidobacterium longum.
7. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content, expressed as dry extract, of the lysate of the microorganism (iii) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The yeast (iv) of the genus Saccharomyces includes the following species: Saccharomyces bailii, Saccharomyces carlsbergensis, Saccharomyces uvarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces exigus, Saccharomyces fermentatii, ... fermentati, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fructum, Saccharomyces heterogenicus, Saccharomyces oleaginosus, Saccharomyces rosei, Saccharomyces steineri, Saccharomyces boulardii 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the yeast strain is selected from the group consisting of Saccharomyces boulardii, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces kluyveri, and mixtures thereof.
9. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content (as dry matter or active substance) of the extract of yeast (iv) of the genus Saccharomyces ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition of claim 1, further comprising one or more monosaccharides.
11. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the total content of said monosaccharides ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. 11. The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it also comprises one or more additional sugars different from said monosaccharides, selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
13. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the additional sugars correspond to a mixture comprising at least one fructooligosaccharide and at least one glucooligosaccharide.
14. 14. The composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the total content of the additional sugars ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition described in claim 1, characterized in that it further contains one or more probiotic microorganisms different from the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, selected from the group of lactic acid bacteria and mixtures thereof.
16. 16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the total content of the probiotic microorganisms different from the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Said C 8 ~C 30 5. The composition of claim 4, further comprising one or more nonionic surfactants different from the oxyalkylenated esters of acids and sorbitol (ii).
18. 10. A method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to claim 1.
19. 10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to claim 1 for maintaining and even restoring the microflora of the skin and scalp.
20. 10. A device comprising one or more containers containing the composition of claim 1.
Citation Information
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