Cosmetic treatment method comprising application of a composition comprising at least one antioxidant and a Bifidobacterium species lysate - Patent Application 20070122999

Abstract

A cosmetic treatment method comprising application of a composition comprising at least one antioxidant and a Bifidobacterium spp. lysate. The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and hair comprising application of a composition comprising at least one specific antioxidant, a Bifidobacterium spp. lysate and water. Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method of the present invention is a method for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp and hair.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and hair, comprising the application of a composition comprising at least one specific antioxidant, a Bifidobacterium species lysate, and water.

[0002] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment of the present invention is a method for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp and hair. [Background technology]

[0003] Human skin, particularly the scalp, consists of two compartments: the deep compartment, the dermis, and the superficial compartment, the epidermis.

[0004] The skin has a major role in protecting against external aggressions, such as environmental aggressions, climatic aggressions (heat, cold, UV, tobacco, etc.), pollution, allergens, pathogenic bacteria, mechanical aggressions (hair removal, shaving, abrasive cleaning) and chemical aggressions (detergents). This property, known as the barrier function, is mainly performed by the outermost layer of the epidermis, i.e. the cornified layer known as the stratum corneum.

[0005] The skin also represents a complex ecosystem in which several types of microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, thrive. These microorganisms constitute the skin microbiota, also known as the skin microflora. Within this ecosystem, a balance exists between the different types of microorganisms.

[0006] To date, over 500 bacterial species have been detected on healthy skin, with over 2 million genes. 2 There are about 10 6 bacteria live there.

[0007] In particular the following are identified: - the commensal resident flora, which is comprised of microorganisms that continuously grow on healthy skin, sucking nutrients from the skin, and providing known benefits to the skin; - Transient bacterial flora that are present on the skin under abnormal conditions, for example, through contact with contaminating elements, and which can become pathogenic in the event of proliferation.

[0008] If the barrier is adversely affected or if the balance between commensals and pathogens is disturbed, for example following an external attack, adverse changes in skin quality and / or skin disorders, such as stinging, tightness, itching, etc., may result therefrom.

[0009] Furthermore, it is clear that the quality of the skin barrier is affected every day due to external aggressions such as irritants (surfactants, acids, bases, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, concentrated solvents), mechanical stress (friction, shaving) or thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness).

[0010] Therefore, the (re)colonization of the skin by beneficial microorganisms of the skin commensal flora seems fundamental for skin physiology and immunity, in particular due to its role in limiting the adhesion of microorganisms, especially pathogenic microorganisms, and in particular due to the restoration / restoration of the barrier function after external insults such as those mentioned above.

[0011] Cosmetic solutions are already known that act on the skin microflora, such as the use of compositions containing probiotics or the use of pullulan or one of its derivatives or in combination with polysaccharides, in order to maintain and / or preserve the balance of the skin and / or mucosal microflora. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0012] However, these solutions are difficult to convert for use on the scalp, especially for the reasons set out below.

[0013] One of these reasons lies in the fact that the scalp microbiota is different from that of facial or body skin, which is mainly composed of five types of bacteria: Cutibacterium acnes, Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus epidermis, Streptococcus, and Neisseria. The microbiota present on the scalp, for its part, is mainly represented by three microorganisms: Malassezia restricta, Staphylococcus epidermis, and Cutibacterium acnes (also known as Propionibacterium acnes), which make up the majority of the scalp's microbial population.

[0014] In addition, two bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermis and Cutibacterium acnes) are common in the scalp and skin flora, but their relative proportions differ; these two bacteria represent 99% of the bacteria in the scalp flora but only 75% of the bacteria in the facial skin flora.

[0015] Therefore, the scalp microbiota exhibits a much lower diversity than the facial skin microbiota.

[0016] Furthermore, when keratin fibers on the scalp (hair) are denser and / or longer than on the skin of the face or body (non-head hair), further constraints arise, since the cosmetic treatments used must not adversely affect the appearance and / or feel of the hair, in particular must not have a greasy effect on the hair and oily roots and / or must not result in an unpleasant feel and / or undesirable appearance of the hair.

[0017] Another point lies in the fact that the properties expected from a composition for the scalp may differ from those provided by a composition for the skin; the scalp may show cases of discomfort such as stinging or burning due to the presence of excessive dandruff, which is for example the result of the presence of an abnormal amount of Malassezia restricta, this microorganism being naturally present on a healthy scalp, but its excessive growth may cause discomfort.

[0018] Therefore, there is a real need to develop a method for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and hair, which makes it possible to maintain or restore the balance of the scalp's very unique microbial symbiotic flora, while reducing, and indeed even eliminating, the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort such as stinging, itching and / or a burning sensation, while preserving a clean, non-greasy and non-sticky feeling on the hair and roots, consistent with consumer expectations for this type of method.

[0019] It has now been found that a method for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and / or hair, comprising applying a composition comprising at least one specific antioxidant, at least one Bifidobacterium species lysate and water, in a total content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight, makes it possible to achieve the above-mentioned objectives, in particular to maintain and indeed restore the balance of the scalp microflora, while at the same time having a soothing effect on the scalp and limiting the oxidation of sebum. [Means for solving the problem]

[0020] A subject of the present invention is therefore a method for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and / or hair, comprising applying to the scalp and / or hair a composition comprising one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or a mixture thereof, in lysate form, and water with a total content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The method according to the invention in particular makes it possible to maintain and indeed restore the balance of the symbiotic microflora of the scalp, while at the same time providing an antioxidant effect that can reduce the irritation and itching associated with sebum oxidation.

[0022] The method according to the invention provides a soothing and antioxidant effect on the scalp, which also makes it possible to limit the deposition of particles resulting from pollution on the scalp and hair.

[0023] After carrying out the method of the invention, the microflora of the skin, and in particular of the scalp, is thus strengthened and in fact even rebalanced, and is better able to defend itself against external aggressions and to counteract discomfort.

[0024] The method according to the invention further makes it possible to obtain beautiful hair that does not have a greasy or dry appearance and that has a clean and natural feel.

[0025] Furthermore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to impart good cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular to obtain shiny, supple hair that feels smooth to the touch and is easy to detangle. These effects on keratinous fibers can be obtained by applying the composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers or to the scalp.

[0026] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to impart conditioning properties to the hair, in particular in terms of improving the volume of the hair, and in addition the hair has a natural, clean feel and appearance.

[0027] The compositions used in the method according to the invention are advantageously clear or even transparent, thereby giving them an aesthetic appearance that is particularly attractive to the user. This composition may further provide a gel or serum-type texture that facilitates its application to the scalp (a non-flowing product that can collect) and thus the implementation of the method of the present invention.

[0028] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is a method for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp and / or hair, advantageously the scalp. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0029] Other objects, properties, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent on reading the following description and examples.

[0030] In the following points, and unless otherwise indicated, particularly in the phrases "between" and "ranging from," the endpoints of a range of values ​​are included within the range.

[0031] Furthermore, as used in this description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more."

[0032] Furthermore, the term "composed of X OEs" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an oxyethylenated compound containing X oxyethylene units per molecule.

[0033] antioxidants The composition used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more antioxidants selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters.

[0034] The term "antioxidant" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an agent that slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemicals when they come into contact with the antioxidant.

[0035] Advantageously, the antioxidant is chosen from ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Preferably, the antioxidant is selected from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially, the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside.

[0037] The total content of antioxidants (i) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight and indeed from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In a preferred alternative form of the invention, the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside and the total content of ascorbyl glucoside present in the composition preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, and indeed from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Bifidobacterium species The composition used in the method according to the invention further comprises one or more microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products, or a mixture thereof, wherein the microorganisms are in lysate form.

[0040] The term "metabolite" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean any substance resulting from the metabolism of a microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species and effective in protecting the scalp against oxidative stress.

[0041] The term "fraction" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean a fragment of a microorganism that is effective in protecting the scalp from oxidative stress, as well as the whole microorganism.

[0042] Lysate generally refers to the material obtained after the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis, which results in the release of intracellular biological components naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism.

[0043] In the context of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used without preference to indicate all the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism in question, or only a fraction of the lysate. The lysate used is therefore made up entirely or partly of intracellular biological components as well as wall and cell membrane components.

[0044] More specifically, the lysate contains the cytoplasmic fraction of the cells, which contains enzymes such as lactate dehydrogenase, phosphatase, phosphoketolase or transaldolase, and metabolic products. By way of example, components of the cell wall are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptides and teichoic acids, while components of the cell membrane are composed of glycerophospholipids.

[0045] This cell lysis can be carried out by various techniques, for example by osmotic shock, by heat shock, by ultrasound or under mechanical stress, for example by centrifugation. More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technique described in US Pat. No. 4,464,362, in particular according to the following protocol:

[0046] Microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species are preferably cultivated under anaerobic conditions in a suitable medium, for example, according to the conditions described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362 and European Patent No. 43128. Once the stationary phase of growth is reached, the medium can be inactivated, for example, by pasteurization at a temperature in the range of 60-65°C for 30 minutes. The microorganisms thus formed are then recovered by conventional separation techniques, such as membrane filtration or centrifugation, and then resuspended in a sterile physiological solution of NaCl.

[0047] The solution obtained above can then be sonicated to release the cytoplasmic fraction, cell wall fragments, and metabolic products, thereby obtaining a lysate of these microorganisms. All components of their natural distribution are then stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution. The total content of active substances present in the lysate obtained by this method is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially 1% to 20% by weight, and even better still, 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lysate.

[0048] The lysate can be used in various forms, in particular in the form of a solution or in the form of a powder.

[0049] Preferably, the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium is selected from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, or Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] More preferentially, the microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species is Bifidobacterium longum.

[0051] As a lysate that can be used within the meaning of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the component having the INCI name: Bifida Ferment Lysate.

[0052] By way of example, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product sold by K. Richter GmbH under the name Repair Complex CLR®, which is made up of an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum.

[0053] The total content, expressed as dry extract, of lysates of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium present in the composition used in the method of the invention preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Saccharomyces yeast extract The compositions used in the methods according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces.

[0055] The yeast can be prepared by culturing it in a conventional medium for culturing yeast (e.g., 10 g / l yeast extract, 7 g / l peptone digested with pepsin, 20 g / l glucose, and enough water to reach 1 liter).

[0056] Preferentially, an aqueous yeast extract is selected, i.e., a yeast extract that is subject to unavoidable losses according to good manufacturing practices, which contains all the water-soluble components of the yeast after dissolution of the yeast and removal of membrane debris by filtration. This aqueous yeast extract is preferentially redissolved.

[0057] Preferably, the aqueous extract of Saccharomyces yeast of the present invention is prepared by dissolving whole Saccharomyces yeast in water (preferably distilled water). The suspension thus obtained is then subjected to protein hydrolysis. The soluble and insoluble phases of the solution obtained after the hydrolysis are then separated, and the soluble phase is recovered. This soluble phase is then subjected to sterilization.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous yeast extract thus obtained can then be optionally dried and provided in powder form. The extract, preferably in powder form, can also be placed in solution (the term used is yeast extract in solution), in particular in an aqueous / alcoholic solution, preferably in an aqueous / alcoholic solution, more preferentially in an aqueous / glycolic solution (for example, a solution composed of a mixture of water and pentylene glycol). The content of aqueous yeast extract present in this solution is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferentially 2% to 7% by weight, and better still 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0059] The yeast extract used according to the invention preferably comprises water, the water content being advantageously at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 70% by weight and better still at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0060] Advantageously, the yeast extract in solution that can be used according to the invention corresponds to the following characteristics: a pH between 5 and 8, preferably between 6 and 7, and / or sugars in an amount of 20 to 60 g per liter of solution (g / l), preferably 20 to 50 g / l, and more preferentially 25 to 35 g / l, and / or A solids (or dry matter) concentration of 10 to 60 g / l, preferably 20 to 50 g / l, more preferentially 37 to 47 g / l.

[0061] The whole yeast population used to prepare this aqueous yeast extract, i.e., the population before hydrolysis and / or sterilization, is preferentially 10 per milliliter of aqueous yeast solution. 5 ~10 10 Colony forming units (i.e. cfu / ml).

[0062] The aqueous yeast extract that can be used in the compositions of the present invention preferably exhibits the following characteristics: a total nitrogen content (by Kjeldahl method) ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 6% to 12% by weight and more preferentially from 7% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the yeast extract, and / or a total content of free amino acids (according to the Soerensen method) ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the yeast extract, and / or a mass ratio between the total content of assimilable amino nitrogen and the total nitrogen content present in the extract ranging from 0.4 to 0.7, preferably from 0.4 to 0.6 and more preferentially from 0.5 to 0.6;

[0063] The protein hydrolysis is preferentially carried out by chemical or acid hydrolysis or by using natural yeast enzymes, and preferably covers at least 60%, more preferentially at least 80% and better still at least 90% of the total protein present in the yeast solution after lysis of the yeast.

[0064] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases obtained after protein hydrolysis can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, depending on the nature of the extract desired. This phase separation can be carried out, for example, by filtration, decantation or centrifugation, with filtration being the preferred method. After this separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, the soluble phase is recovered.

[0065] Sterilization can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, in particular by sterile filtration, the latter being preferentially carried out by using membrane filters, the pore size of which is chosen as a function of the size of the membrane elements it is desired to remove, a technique well known to those skilled in the art.

[0066] Following this sterilization step, the resulting aqueous yeast extract can be dried to provide it in powder form, which can also be accomplished by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as evaporation, freeze-drying, or spray-drying.

[0067] The yeast of the genus Saccharomyces used in the present invention is preferably selected from the following species: Saccharomyces bailii, Saccharomyces carlsbergensis, Saccharomyces uvarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces exiguus, Saccharomyces fermentati, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fructuum, Saccharomyces heterogenicus, Saccharomyces oleaginosus, Saccharomyces rosei, Saccharomyces steineri, Saccharomyces boulardii, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces kluyveri, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] More preferentially, the yeast of the genus Saccharomyces is a yeast of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0069] Such compounds are known in particular under the INCI name: Yeast Extract.

[0070] Advantageously, the extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces present in the composition of the invention is free of live yeast.

[0071] An example of an extract of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces that can be used according to the invention is sold by Silab under the name Firmalift® GRV. The CAS number of this extract is 8013-01-2 and its EINECS / ELINCS number is 232-387-9. This extract is provided in the form of a solution in a water / pentylene glycol mixture.

[0072] When present in the composition used in the method according to the invention, the total content of extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces preferably ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] monosaccharide The composition used in the method according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more monosaccharides.

[0074] The term "monosaccharide" within the meaning of this patent application refers to a sugar of formula C, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 5. x (H2O) x is understood to mean monosaccharide sugars containing at least 3 carbon atoms, preferably at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably with x being 6 or more, in particular with x being 5 to 7 (inclusive), preferably with x=6, which may be in the D or L configuration and in the α or β anomers, as well as in their solvates, such as their salts and hydrates.

[0075] Preferably, the monosaccharide is selected from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] More preferentially, the monosaccharide is chosen from mannose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof, and better still mannose.

[0077] Mannose is a monosaccharide (simple non-hydrolyzable sugar) consisting of six carbon atoms; it is a hexose. Its empirical formula is CH, identical to that of glucose. 12 O6, of which it is the C2 epimer (i.e., its spatial arrangement is exactly the same as that of glucose, except for the substitution at carbon 2, which is inverted compared to glucose). Mannose corresponds to the following formula (I), which also includes its enantiomers: [ka]

[0078] Mannose can also be provided in solvated forms (including hydrates) and in the form of a mixture of D and L stereoisomers, referred to as DL-mannose.

[0079] Preferably, the monosaccharide is D-mannose of formula (II) below: [ka]

[0080] D-mannose occurs naturally in plants, especially in certain fruits, including cranberries, and in hardwoods such as beech and birch.

[0081] As examples of D-mannose suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the D-mannose sold by Danisco Sweeteners® or Symrise®.

[0082] Rhamnose (or 6-deoxymannose) formally constitutes the deoxygenation product of mannose at C6. Rhamnose is found in nature in the L form. L-rhamnose products are also sold, for example, by Danisco Sweeteners® and Symrise.

[0083] Preferably, the monosaccharide is chosen from mannose and its α or β anomer, its optical isomer in L or D configuration, its solvates and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the monosaccharide is D-mannose.

[0084] When present in the composition used in the method of the invention, the total content of monosaccharides preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, when the composition used in the method of the invention comprises one or more monosaccharides, preferably chosen from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, the mass ratio between the total content of antioxidants and the total content of monosaccharides present in the composition of the invention is greater than or equal to 1, more preferentially ranging from 1 to 5.

[0086] Even better, when the composition used in the method of the present invention comprises ascorbyl glucoside and mannose, the mass ratio between the total content of ascorbyl glucoside and the total content of mannose present in the composition of the present invention is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferentially in the range of 1 to 5.

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the method of the invention comprises one or more monosaccharides, preferably chosen from mannose, rhamnose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, and better from mannose, and their α or β anomers, their optical isomers in the L or D configuration, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Added sugars The composition used in the method according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional saccharides different from the monosaccharides defined above, selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The term "polysaccharide" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean a complex carbohydrate that is a polymer composed of several units n of monosaccharides as defined above linked together by saccharide bonds, the number n being greater than or equal to 11, preferably between 11 and 200, more preferentially between 11 and 100, and better still between 20 and 80. As an example of a polysaccharide, particular mention may be made of inulin.

[0090] The term "oligosaccharide" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean an oligomer composed of several units n of monosaccharides as defined above via one or more α- or β-glycosidic bonds, the number n being between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 6. As examples of oligosaccharides, mention may be made in particular of fructooligosaccharides, glucooligosaccharides, soybean-derived oligosaccharides, pyrodextrins, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides and transgalactooligosaccharides.

[0091] Preferably, the additional sugars are selected from inulin, fructooligosaccharides, glucooligosaccharides, soybean-derived oligosaccharides, pyrodextrin, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides, transgalactooligosaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The oligosaccharides and polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention are carbohydrates.

[0093] The oligo- and polysaccharides which can be used can be made in particular from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums, in particular acacia gum, or mixtures thereof.

[0094] Examples include the following oligosaccharides and / or polysaccharides:

[0095] -Inulin Inulin is particularly abundant in plants, especially Jerusalem artichoke and chicory rhizomes, from which it is extracted industrially. Inulin is also found in other plants in the Asteraceae family, such as dahlia bulbs and burdock. Inulin is considered a soluble dietary fiber.

[0096] Inulin is a polydisperse linear polymer of the general formula (III): GFn (also represented below), where G is a glucose unit, F is a fructose unit, n varies from 2 to 60, and in fact can range up to more than 60, and the fructose units are linked together by β(2→1) bonds. Inulin therefore corresponds to a chain of fructose units terminated by a glucose unit. [ka]

[0097] Among the inulins that can be used and are commercially available, mention may in particular be made of Inutec H25P (n=2 to 7) and Inutec N25 (average n=25) from Orafti.

[0098] -Fructooligosaccharides Fructooligosaccharides (or FOS), also called oligofructose or oligofructans, are short chains of fructose linked together by β-1,2 bonds. Fructooligosaccharides (or FOS) correspond to the general formula: G(F)n, where G is a glucose unit, F is a fructose unit, and n ranges from 1 to 10.

[0099] Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are partial enzymatic hydrolysis of inulin (e.g. Raftilose® from Orafti-Belgium), or enzymatic synthesis starting from sucrose (for example Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries-France), or - produced by extraction from yacon or jicama (Polymnia sonchifolia, synonym: Smallanthus sonchifolia), in particular the extraction being carried out by cold pressing of yacon tubers in the absence of solvents;

[0100] The fructooligosaccharides (FOS) that can be used in the present invention are preferably FOS mixtures, in particular GF2+GF3+GF4 mixtures such as Quantum FOS95 from Quantum Hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries-France, the latter corresponding to a mixture of 37% GF2, 53% GF3 and 10% GF4.

[0101] -Glucooligosaccharides Glucooligosaccharides (GOS) or oligoglucans are oligosaccharides composed of sequences of α-1,6-linked glucose units that may also contain α-1,2; α-1,3; or α-1,4 linkages. They are synthesized by transglucosylation reactions catalyzed by enzymes of the glucansucrase family.

[0102] Preferably, glucooligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of a sequence of α-1,6- and α-1,2-linked glucose units.

[0103] Advantageously, the number of glucose units is between 2 and 10, preferably between 4 and 6, and more preferentially the number of glucose units is 4.

[0104] Additionally, glucooligosaccharides can be synthesized by the polymerization of glucose molecules, a reaction catalyzed by specific enzymes of the glycosyltransferase type, and can be extracted and purified from bacterial strains of Leuconostoc mesenteroides. This reaction requires the use of an acceptor: maltose (glucose-glucose) and a donor: sucrose (glucose-fructose).

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the glucooligosaccharides (GOS) have the following formula (V): [ka]

[0106] Among the GOS that are available and commercially available, mention may be made of the product Bioecolia® from Solabia.

[0107] -Soybean-derived oligosaccharides These oligosaccharides are extracted directly from soybeans and do not require any enzymatic treatment. They naturally contain raffinose and stachyose and have the formula: [α-D-GaI-(1→6)-] m -α-D-Glu-(1→2)-β-D-Fru, where m=1 for raffinose and m=2 for stachyose.

[0108] Among the oligosaccharides that can be used, Soya-oligo from Calpis Food Industry (Japan) can be mentioned in particular.

[0109] -pyrodextrin Pyrodextrin is a mixture of oligosaccharides from the hydrolysis of starch.

[0110] -Isomaltooligosaccharides Isomaltooligosaccharides are produced from starch. They are α-(1,6)-linked glucose oligomers with a degree of polymerization of 2 to 5. For example, Isomalto 900P from Showa Sangyo Co., Ltd. can be used.

[0111] -Xylooligosaccharides Xylooligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of xylose units linked by β-(1,4) bonds. For example, Xylo95P from Suntory Ltd. can be used.

[0112] -Transgalactooligosaccharides Transgalactooligosaccharides (or TOS) are derived from lactose by fermentation and have the chemical structure α-D-glucose-(1→4)-[β-D-galactose-(1→6)-]. n (n is 2 to 5) is a linear oligomer of galactose.

[0113] As an example, TOS100 from Yakult Honsha Co., Ltd. (Japan) can be used.

[0114] When present in the composition used in the method of the invention, the total content of additional sugars different from monosaccharides chosen from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and indeed from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the method comprises one or more additional sugars different from the monosaccharides, selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

[0116] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition used in the method comprises a mixture of at least one oligosaccharide and / or at least one polysaccharide, in other words, the composition may comprise a mixture of at least two oligosaccharides, a mixture of at least two polysaccharides, or a mixture of at least one oligosaccharide and at least one polysaccharide.

[0117] According to a first alternative of this embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two oligosaccharides of the same type. For example, as mentioned above, a mixture of FOS can be used, in particular a mixture of GF2+GF3+GF4, such as Quantum FOS95 from Quantum Hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiji Industries-France, the latter corresponding to a mixture of 37% GF2, 53% GF3 and 10% GF4.

[0118] According to a second alternative of this embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of oligosaccharides and / or different types of polysaccharides. The invention particularly relates to the use of a mixture of inulin with GOS, FOS, soybean-derived oligosaccharides, pyrodextrin, isomaltooligosaccharides, xylooligosaccharides and / or transgalactooligosaccharides. Preferably, a mixture of inulin and GOS, such as Bioline from Gova Ingredients, is used. The composition can also comprise a mixture of GOS and FOS.

[0119] Preferably, according to this second alternative form of embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS), - a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS), the total content of glucooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; The total content of fructooligosaccharides (FOS) ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.02% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Advantageously, in this second alternative of this particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS), - a mixture of oligosaccharides comprising at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS), The mass ratio of the total content of glucooligosaccharides to the total content of fructooligosaccharides ([GOS / FOS] ratio) is not less than 2. Preferably, this mass ratio is in the range of 2-4, more preferentially 3-4.

[0121] In particular, a mixture of prebiotic oligosaccharides and probiotic microorganisms sold by Solabia under the name Ecoskin® can be used. - 60% to 80% by weight of at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture; - 10% to 25% by weight of at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) relative to the total weight of the mixture; Includes:

[0122] In particular, the mixture comprises 70% by weight of glucooligosaccharides (GOS), 19% by weight of yacon (Polymnia sonchifolia) tuber juice, 1% by weight of Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei, and 10% by weight of maltodextrin.

[0123] Probiotic microorganisms The composition used in the method according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more probiotic microorganisms different from the microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species defined above.

[0124] The term "probiotic microorganisms" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean live microorganisms which, when consumed in appropriate amounts, have a positive effect on the health of their host (Joint FAO / WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, 6 October 2001) and may in particular improve the intestinal microbial balance.

[0125] In the case of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the skin or scalp, the probiotic microorganisms are those which, when applied to the keratinous material in an appropriate amount, have a positive effect on the aesthetic qualities of the keratinous material.

[0126] Preferably, the probiotic microorganisms that can be used according to the invention are selected from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as, in particular, Lactobacillus and mixtures thereof, more particularly Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Advantageously, the probiotic microorganism is selected from the group consisting of Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus salmonis (Lactobacillus spp.), Lactobacillus spp. Lactobacillus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus delbrueckii, Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillus salivarius, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus sakei, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus buchneri, Lactobacillus fermentum, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus longum longum) and mixtures thereof.

[0128] The probiotic microorganisms may be present in the compositions according to the invention in live, semi-active or inactivated (killed) form. They may also be present in the form of fractions of cellular components or in the form of metabolic products. The probiotic microorganisms, or metabolic products or fractions, may also be introduced in the form of a lyophilized powder, culture supernatant and / or, if appropriate, in concentrated form.

[0129] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these microorganisms are in inactivated form. The terms "inactive", "non-regenerative" and "dead" are synonymous herein. A bacterium "in semi-active form" is a bacterium that has partially or completely lost its expected pathogenicity.

[0130] When present in the composition used in the method according to the invention, the total content of probiotic microorganisms different from microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species advantageously ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.001% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] This or these microorganisms may be present in the composition according to the invention in viable, semi-viable or inactivated (dead) form, preferably inactivated, for example by heat or high pressure.

[0132] When the microorganisms are formulated in the composition in a viable form, the amount of live microorganisms is preferably 10 3 ~10 15 cfu / g, more preferentially 10 5 ~10 15 cfu / g, better 10 7 ~10 12 The microorganisms per gram of composition may range from cfu / g.

[0133] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises: one or more glucooligosaccharides (GOS), and - comprising a mixture of oligosaccharides, including one or more fructooligosaccharides (FOS), the total content of glucooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; The total content of fructooligosaccharides is in the range of 0.001% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 0.01% by mass, more preferentially 0.01% to 1% by mass, even better 0.01% to 0.5% by mass, and even more preferentially 0.05% to 0.3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0134] According to this embodiment, the composition used in the method of the invention preferably further comprises one or more probiotic microorganisms selected from bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, more preferentially Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus and mixtures thereof, the total content of probiotic microorganisms advantageously ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Advantageously, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises: one or more glucooligosaccharides (GOS), and - comprising a mixture of oligosaccharides, including one or more fructooligosaccharides (FOS), The mass ratio of the total content of glucooligosaccharides to the total content of fructooligosaccharides ([GOS / FOS] ratio) is not less than 2. Preferably, this mass ratio is in the range of 2-4, more preferentially 3-4.

[0136] In particular, it is possible to use, by way of example, a mixture of prebiotic oligosaccharides and probiotic microorganisms sold by Solabia under the name Ecoskin®. - 60% to 80% by weight of at least one glucooligosaccharide (GOS), relative to the total weight of the mixture; - 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture, of at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS), and - comprising at least one probiotic microorganism, in particular chosen from Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 0.001% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0137] In particular, the mixture comprises 70% by weight of glucooligosaccharides (GOS), 19% by weight of yacon (Polymnia sonchifolia) tuber juice, 1% by weight of Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei, and 10% by weight of maltodextrin.

[0138] Nonionic surfactants The compositions used in the methods according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0139] These surfactants can particularly contribute to maintaining the clarity or transparency of the composition.

[0140] Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the invention are described, for example, in MR Porter's Handbook of Surfactants, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are in particular aliphatic alcohols, α-diols or (C1-C 20) alkylphenols or acids, which compounds are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have, for example, at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 30.

[0141] As examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in accordance with the present invention, the following nonionic surfactants may be mentioned: -Oxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohol, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C 30 fatty acid amides, -Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C 30 esters of acids with polyols or polyethylene glycols, -Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C 30 esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylated; -esters of fatty acids with sucrose; - optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and containing 1 to 15 glucose units (C8 to C 30 ) Alkyl (poly)glucosides, (C8-C 30 ) Alkenyl (poly)glucosides, (C8-C 30 ) esters of alkyl (poly)glucosides, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, -N-(C8~C 30 ) alkyl glucamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives, -aldobionamide, amine oxides, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, - and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0143] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably in the range from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50, and the number of moles of glycerol is in particular in the range from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0144] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain any oxypropylene units.

[0145] Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants include monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C8 surfactants containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol. 40 It is preferred to use alcohol.

[0146] Among glycerolated alcohols, C8 / C with 1 mol of glycerol 10 Alcohol, C with 1 mol glycerol 10 / C 12 alcohol, and C with 1.5 mol glycerol 12 It is particularly preferred to use alcohol.

[0147] Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, C8 to C 30 Among esters of acids and sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units 30 Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan are particularly preferred, more preferentially C8-C10 fatty acids containing 4 to 20 oxyethylene units.18 Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan are preferred, and even better saturated or unsaturated, linear C8-C6 fatty acids containing 4 to 20 oxyethylene units. 18 Esters of fatty acids and sorbitan are preferred.

[0148] Such compounds are known in particular under the name polysorbates. They are sold, inter alia, by Uniqema under the name Tween. For example, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21), sold under the name Tween 21; polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), sold under the name Tween 20; polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40), sold under the name Tween 40; polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60), sold under the name Tween 60; polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21), sold under the name Tween 20; polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40), sold under the name Tween 40; polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60), sold under the name Tween 61; Mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 61), polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan tristearate (polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 80) sold under the name Tween 80, polyoxyethylene (5OE) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 81) sold under the name Tween 81, and polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) sold under the name Tween 85.

[0149] The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units 30 Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan, preferably C8-C containing 4 to 20 oxyethylene units 18Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear C8-C containing 4 to 20 oxyethylene units. 18 Esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, - oxyethylenated C8-C copolymers containing 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 mol, more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; 40 alcohol, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide, - optionally oxyalkylenated (0-10 OE) and containing 1-15 glucose units (C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucosides, - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; 40 alcohol, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C 30 fatty acid amides, -Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C8-C 30 esters of acids with polyols or polyethylene glycols, - and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C6 hydroxybenzoate containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units. 30 Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, preferentially oxyethylenated C8-C 40 They are selected from alcohols; oxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 mol, preferably 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C6 hydroxybenzoate containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units. 30Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially containing from 4 to 20 oxyethylene units, preferably linear and saturated C8-C 18 Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan and mixtures thereof, preferably linear saturated C esters containing 4 to 10 oxyethylene units. 10 ~C 14 It is selected from esters of fatty acids and sorbitan.

[0152] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyalkylenated ester of a fatty acid and sorbitan is a saturated fatty acid.

[0153] The oxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and sorbitan is preferably selected from polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan tristearate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene (5OE) sorbitan monooleate and polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan trioleate, and more preferably from polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene (20OE) sorbitan monolaurate and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the oxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and sorbitan is polyoxyethylene (4OE) sorbitan monolaurate.

[0154] When present in the composition used in the method of the invention, the total content of nonionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Preferably, when present in the composition of the present invention, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-C, alkyl esters containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units are used. 30 The total content of fatty acid esters with sorbitan preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition used in the method of the invention.

[0156] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the methods of the present invention comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0157] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition used in the method of the present invention is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-C oxyethylene copolymer containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units. 30 It contains one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from esters of fatty acids and sorbitan.

[0158] The composition used in the method according to the invention comprises water in a total content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Advantageously, the total water content ranges from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] The composition used in the process according to the invention may also advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular one or more linear or branched monoalcohols chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof, and better still ethanol.

[0161] The monoalcohols that can be used in accordance with the present invention are straight-chain or branched-chain and therefore not cyclic or aromatic.

[0162] Said monoalcohols may be present in the composition used in the method according to the invention in a total content ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 12% to 30% by weight and better still from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The composition used in the method according to the invention may optionally contain one or more organic solvents different from the monoalcohols mentioned above, which can be chosen from polyols, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] As examples of organic solvents that can be used according to the invention, apart from the above-mentioned monoalcohols, mention may be made in particular of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] If present in the composition used in the method according to the invention, the total content of organic solvents different from the abovementioned monoalcohols preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] When the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, in particular chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, the composition is an aqueous / alcoholic composition.

[0167] In a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more straight or branched chain monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0168] The composition used in the method according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds different from those defined above, preferably chosen from cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, thickeners, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifiers, lubricants (or anti-caking agents) and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Preferably, when the above-mentioned additional compounds are present in the composition according to the invention, they are generally present in a content of, for each of them, between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0170] In an advantageous embodiment, the composition used in the method of the invention may comprise one or more anti-dandruff agents and / or one or more agents for combating hair loss.

[0171] Of course, one skilled in the art will take care in selecting any of these additional compounds so that the advantageous properties inherent in the compositions of the present invention are not adversely affected, or are not substantially affected, by the anticipated addition.

[0172] The optional thickener may be selected from inorganic or organic thickeners. The thickener may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0173] In particular, thickeners that can be used according to the invention include carboxyvinyl polymers, crosslinked acrylic and / or methacrylic acid polymers, in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (carbomers), such as those sold by Goodrich under the name Carbopol, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold by Guardian under the name Lubrajel or Norgel, or the products sold by Hispano Chimica under the name Hispagel; polyacrylamides, such as the products sold by SEPPIC under the name Sepigel 305; polysaccharides, such as alginates, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and microcrystalline cellulose; natural gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan; or clays, such as montmorillonite and derivatives, bentones and derivatives, or magnesium aluminum silicate and derivatives (Veegum).

[0174] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the method comprises at least one thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic and / or methacrylic acid polymers.

[0175] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the method comprises at least one thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0176] When present in the composition used in the method of the invention, the total content of thickeners preferably ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0177] The pH of the composition used in the method according to the invention advantageously varies from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8 and more preferentially from 6.5 to 7.5.

[0178] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value using commonly used basifying or acidifying agents. Examples of basifying agents include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, or inorganic or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0179] The composition used in the method according to the invention is advantageously provided in thickened or even gelled form, in particular in the form of a thickened or even gelled lotion or a thickened or even gelled serum.

[0180] The composition used in the method according to the invention is advantageously provided in the form of a clear to transparent fluid, preferably a transparent fluid.

[0181] The transparency of the compositions of the present invention can be characterized by measuring the turbidity of the composition by turbidity measurement (NTU units). In the context of the present invention, turbidity measurements were performed using a UV-Vis Cary100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by Agilent. It is also possible to measure the turbidity of the composition using a turbidimeter such as the HI88713-ISO model manufactured by Hanna Instruments.

[0182] Advantageously, the turbidity of the composition according to the invention, measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferentially less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 50 NTU units, even more preferentially less than or equal to 20 NTU units, indeed less than or equal to 10 NTU units.

[0183] Preferably, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises: one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products or a mixture thereof, in lysate form; one or more extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, optionally one or more monosaccharides, optionally one or more additional saccharides selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, a total content of water ranging from 50% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids with sorbitan.

[0184] Better still, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises: one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products or a mixture thereof, in lysate form; one or more extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, one or more monosaccharides, optionally one or more additional saccharides selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, a total content of water ranging from 50% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and one or more oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids with sorbitan.

[0185] Even better, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises: one or more antioxidants chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and mixtures thereof, more preferentially the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside, one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products or a mixture thereof, in lysate form; one or more extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, one or more monosaccharides, preferably chosen from mannose and its α or β anomers, its optical isomers in L or D configuration, its solvates, and mixtures thereof, optionally one or more additional saccharides selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, a total content of water ranging from 50% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units 30 and one or more esters of fatty acids of the above with sorbitan, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0186] method The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to the scalp and / or hair a composition comprising one or more antioxidants and one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, one of its fractions, one of its metabolic products, or a mixture thereof, wherein the microorganisms are in dissolved form.

[0187] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method of the present invention comprises the application of a composition as defined above to the scalp.

[0188] In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic treatment method of the invention comprises the application to the hair of a composition as defined above.

[0189] The composition may be applied to the scalp and / or hair when dry or wet, optionally after washing with shampoo.

[0190] After application, the composition can optionally be rinsed off after a time interval of 1 minute to 3 hours.

[0191] Preferably, no rinsing operation is performed after application of the composition.

[0192] Application of the composition can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a pipette, a fine brush, a coarse brush, a sponge or the fingers.

[0193] Massaging the scalp and / or hair may be performed to thoroughly distribute the composition throughout the area to be treated.

[0194] The method of the present invention may optionally use an apparatus comprising one or more containers containing the composition according to the present invention as defined above.

[0195] In other words, the compositions used in the methods of the present invention can be contained in a device comprising one or more containers.

[0196] The device may further comprise at least one dispensing member making it possible to dispense the composition, which may for example be a dispensing orifice or an applicator.

[0197] The dispensing member can be adjacent to the container (in which case the device consists of only a single part), or the device can also be made of several parts, for example the container on the one hand and the dispensing member on the other hand.

[0198] The device may therefore comprise at least one dispensing orifice allowing the composition to be dispensed. The dispensing orifice may be closed by a closure member.

[0199] The device may therefore comprise an applicator to facilitate application of the composition, which may be, for example, a comb, a fine or coarse brush, or a pipette or felt, or a dropper.

[0200] Advantageously, the composition is applied directly using the device via a dispensing orifice, which optionally includes an applicator. In other words, the composition is not incorporated into the device. The device of the invention therefore facilitates the application of the composition and makes it possible to obtain an improved recovery rate of the composition.

[0201] Advantageously, application and dispensing of the composition does not require a pump or propellant. The composition flows by gravity through the dispensing orifice. Optionally, pressure can be applied to the container to facilitate flow and dispensing of the ready-to-use composition.

[0202] The device may advantageously be a dropper, optionally combined with a bottle, a pump-action bottle, a bottle, a pipette, eg a single dose pipette, or the like.

[0203] Advantageously, the method according to the invention is a method for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp and / or hair.

[0204] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not limiting in nature. [Example]

[0205] 1. Example 1: Compositions A to F according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are shown in the table below (as % active substance by weight unless otherwise stated):

[0206] [Table 1]

[0207] [Table 2]

[0208] [Table 3]

[0209] The resulting compositions are transparent and can be applied to the scalp and hair, then allowed to dry in the open air without a post-application rinsing step. The pH of the compositions is about 7.

[0210] After 21 days of daily application of the method of the invention (application of the composition described), a significant reduction in scalp discomfort (stinging, burning) and frequency of scratching was observed. The composition does not make the hair and / or roots greasy; on the contrary, the hair is clean and not subject to sticking of the fibers together.

[0211] 41 volunteers were asked to self-assess the effectiveness of the product use on the hair and scalp at T0 (immediately after application) and at T21.

[0212] The following result is obtained: Immediately after application: -The product provides a cooling sensation to the scalp, -The scalp is moisturized, -Reduced sensation of burning, itching and / or stinging. ·Apply after 21 days: -The product provides a cooling sensation to the scalp, -Scalp feels comfortable, moisturized, non-sensitive and soothed -reduced sensations of heating, itching and / or stinging, -The product provides a comfortable feeling and has a good texture.

[0213] 2. Example 2: A study was conducted on 42 volunteers, consisting of men and women aged 18 to 60, with sensitive scalps.

[0214] Volunteers applied 4.5 ml of composition A of Example 1 daily for 21 days (from D1 to D21) at home under normal conditions of use, over the entire scalp, to dry hair according to the following protocol: -Draw three lines from the forehead to the nape of the neck, one on the right, one in the middle, and one on the left. - Apply 4.5ml of serum, depositing the product as evenly as possible by touching or dripping it onto these three lines. - Use your fingertips to make circular movements and massage the product into your scalp.

[0215] The following measurements were carried out on D0 (before the start of application) and D21 (21 days after application).

[0216] (a) Evaluation of the effect of abrasive washing on biochemical markers (quantity [SQOOH] by LC / MS analysis) on delimited areas of the scalp: The assessment of the oxidation of squalene, a known irritant, is measured between D0 and D21.

[0217] The following results are obtained (amount of SQOOH, protein in ng / mg):

[0218] [Table 4]

[0219] A significant decrease in the rate of oxidation of squalene is observed.

[0220] (b) Evaluation of the effect of the composition on the skin barrier: This assessment is based on instrumental measurements of scalp skin TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) levels, performed on a small surface area of ​​2.25 cm, i.e., a square with a side length of 1.5 cm, using a Vapometer® that maintained minimal water loss (maximum of 6 accurate measurements per experimental period).

[0221] The following results are obtained (gm -2 h-1 TEWL measurement expressed as:

[0222] [Table 5]

[0223] No significant difference in scalp barrier function between D0 and D21 was observed, and barrier function is preserved (not adversely affected) by using the compositions according to the method of the present invention.

[0224] (c) Evaluation of the effect of the composition on reducing scalp discomfort (itching, stinging, burning): Each factor of discomfort was rated on a scale of 0 to 9 by 42 volunteers at D0 (before application), D0 imm (immediately after the first application of the product) and D21.

[0225] For the factors assessed, a rating of 9 corresponds to a high level of discomfort and a rating of 0 corresponds to zero level of discomfort.

[0226] The following result is obtained:

[0227] [Table 6]

[0228] A significant reduction in scalp discomfort is observed from the first application, with a substantial reduction observed after three weeks of application.

[0229] 3. Example 3: Compositions G (according to the invention) and G′ (comparative example) were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are shown in the table below (as % by weight of active substance (AM) unless otherwise stated):

[0230] [Table 7]

[0231] Composition G according to the invention is visually clear, whereas comparative composition G' is opaque.

[0232] In addition, composition G is more fluid than composition G', and therefore composition G is more easily absorbed into the hair and scalp than composition G'.

[0233] Natural hair tresses (5.4 g) were pre-washed with DOP chamomile shampoo at a rate of 0.4 g shampoo per gram of hair and subsequently rinsed.

[0234] Compositions G and G' were each applied to damp natural hair tresses at a rate of 0.15 g of composition per gram of hair, and the tresses were then dried (without rinsing) with a hair dryer.

[0235] Six experts then visually assessed and compared the volume given to the hair on a scale of 0 (no volume, hairs tightly packed, hair strands taking up little volume in the space) to 5 (high volume, hairs loose from each other, hair strands taking up a lot of volume in the space).

[0236] The following results were obtained:

[0237] [Table 8]

[0238] Composition G according to the invention gave significantly more volume to the hair compared to comparative composition G'.

[0239] According to all experts, the hair tresses treated with the composition G according to the invention have a more natural feel and cleaner appearance than the hair tresses treated with the comparative composition G'.

[0240] 4. Example 4: Compositions H (according to the invention) and H′ (comparative example) were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are shown in the table below (as % active substance by weight, unless otherwise stated):

[0241] [Table 9]

[0242] Composition H according to the invention is visually clearer than comparative composition H'.

[0243] Natural hair tresses (5.4 g) were pre-washed with DOP chamomile shampoo at a rate of 0.4 g shampoo per gram of hair and subsequently rinsed.

[0244] Compositions H and H' were each applied to damp natural hair tresses at a rate of 0.15 g of composition per gram of hair, and the tresses were then dried (without rinsing) with a hair dryer.

[0245] Six experts then visually rated the contribution of manageability (hair neatly groomed and styled) on a scale of 0 (no manageability, messy hair) to 5 (more manageable).

[0246] The following results were obtained:

[0247] [Table 10]

[0248] Composition H according to the invention provided more manageability to the hair compared to comparative composition H'.

[0249] According to all experts, the hair tresses treated with composition H according to the invention have a more natural feel and cleaner appearance than the hair tresses treated with comparative composition H'.

Claims

1. 1. A method for cosmetically and non-therapeutically treating the scalp and / or hair, comprising the step of administering to the scalp and / or hair one or more antioxidants selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, the step of administering to the scalp and / or hair one or more antioxidants selected from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, ...

10. A method for treating a hair loss caused by a bacterial infection, comprising: applying to the scalp and / or hair a composition comprising one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium selected from Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, or Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium, or a mixture thereof, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites, or a mixture thereof, in lysate form and expressed as a dry extract, the microorganisms having a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and water having a total content ranging from 60% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside.

3. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the antioxidants ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium is Bifidobacterium longum.

5. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of lysates of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium, expressed as dry extract, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition may further comprise one or more extracts of yeast of the genus Saccharomyces, the yeast being selected from the following species: Saccharomyces bailii, Saccharomyces carlsbergensis, Saccharomyces uvarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces ixigus, Saccharomyces niger ... Saccharomyces exiguus, Saccharomyces fermentati, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces fragilis, Saccharomyces fructum, Saccharomyces heterogenicus, Saccharomyces oleaginosus, Saccharomyces rosei, Saccharomyces steineri 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the yeast strain is selected from the group consisting of Saccharomyces steineri, Saccharomyces boulardii, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces kluyveri, and mixtures thereof.

7. 7. The method according to claim 6, characterized in that the total content of extracts of yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces (as dry matter or active substance) ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises one or more monosaccharides.

9. 9. The method according to claim 8, wherein the total content of the monosaccharides ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the composition further comprises one or more additional sugars different from monosaccharides selected from oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

11. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional sugars correspond to a mixture comprising at least one fructooligosaccharide and at least one glucooligosaccharide.

12. 12. The method according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the total content of additional sugars ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more probiotic microorganisms different from microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species selected from the group of lactic acid bacteria and mixtures thereof.

14. 14. The method according to claim 13, characterized in that the total content of the probiotic microorganisms different from the Bifidobacterium species ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition comprises a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C olefin copolymer containing 1 to 20 oxyethylene units. ８ ~C ３０ Esters of fatty acids with sorbitan; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolized C ８ ~C ４０ 10. The method of claim 1, further comprising one or more nonionic surfactants selected from alcohols; oxyethylated, saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

16. 16. The method according to claim 15, wherein the total content of said nonionic surfactants ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is applied to the scalp and / or the hair.

18. 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is not rinsed off after application.

19. 10. The method according to claim 1 for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp and / or keratinous fibers.

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