Topical compositions containing Pichia anomala and N-acetylglucosamine

A topical composition of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine synergistically enhances hyaluronic acid production, addressing the limitations of separate treatments by improving skin hydration and barrier function, reducing signs of aging, and enhancing moisture retention.

JP7790660B2Active Publication Date: 2025-12-23KENVIEW BRANDS LLC
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2024080110
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2018-08-30
Filing Date
2024-05-16
Publication Date
2025-12-23
Estimated Expiration
2039-08-29

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing topical treatments struggle to effectively increase hyaluronic acid production and improve skin hydration and barrier function due to the limitations of using Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine separately.

Method used

A topical composition combining Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine at specific concentrations enhances hyaluronic acid production through synergistic action, improving skin barrier function and moisture retention.

Benefits of technology

The combination significantly increases hyaluronic acid concentration in the skin, providing structural support and reducing signs of aging, such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity, while maintaining skin moisture and enhancing barrier protection.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To treat skin.SOLUTION: A topical composition contains (i) 0.025 to 0.078 wt.% of Pichia anomala extract and (ii) 1.0 to 3.0 wt.% of n-acetylglucosamine.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention provides methods for treating skin by topically applying a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to the skin. Additionally, topical compositions containing a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine are provided. [Background technology]

[0002] Hyaluronic acid is found around collagen and elastin fibers in the skin and at their intersections. Hyaluronic acid is localized not only within the dermis but also in the intercellular spaces of the epidermis, particularly in the middle spinous layer, but not in the stratum corneum (SC) or granular layer. In aging skin, hyaluronic acid concentrations decrease and dissociate from collagen and elastin. Skin with reduced hyaluronic acid concentrations also exhibits decreased water binding, which is thought to contribute to changes seen in aging skin, including wrinkling, changes in elasticity, loss of firmness, and a decreased ability to support dermal microvasculature. Hyaluronic acid, a major glycosaminoglycan (GAG), can bind 1,000 times its weight in water, potentially helping the skin retain and maintain moisture. Hyaluronic acid is found in all connective tissues and is primarily produced by dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes.

[0003] Several different methods have been proposed to address wrinkles and fine lines, including the injection of hyaluronic acid. Injection of exogenous hyaluronic acid has been used as a temporary dermal filler in soft tissue augmentation procedures. However, the lifetime of injected hyaluronic acid is limited. Meanwhile, penetration of exogenous hyaluronic acid into the skin has proven difficult via topical application.

[0004] Pichia is a genus of yeast in the family Saccharomycetaceae. Over 100 species of this genus are known. The most well-known species include Pichia anomala, Pichia guilliermondii, Pichia norvegensis, and Pichia ohmeri.

[0005] Pichia anomala (formerly Hansenula anomala) is found in raw milk and cheese. Extracts of yeasts from the genus Pichia are rich in mannan, a polysaccharide composed of mannose monomers. Pichia anomala and mannan are known to be used in the treatment of aging skin. See, for example, French Patent Nos. 2938768, 2906719, 2897266, and 2976490.

[0006] PRO-LIPISKIN® is a commercially available cosmetic ingredient containing an extract of Pichia anomala, which is produced by a Pichia strain isolated from sugarcane. It is available from Silab-France.

[0007] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2017 / 0172913(A1) relates to a topical composition comprising a combination of Pichia anomala extract and chicory root extract that increases the production of hyaluronic acid, and a method for treating signs of skin aging and improving skin barrier protection and skin moisturization.

[0008] N-acetylglucosamine is a sugar amine and a building block of GAGs. N-acetylglucosamine is used in many beauty skin care products, such as NEOSTRATA Skin Active Retinol + NAG Complex, available from NeoStrata Company Inc.

[0009] U.S. Reissue Patent No. RE41339 discloses various n-acetylaldosamines, n-acetyl amino acids, and other n-acetyl compounds, including n-acetylglucosamine, for topical application to skin, nails, and hair. These compounds provide multiple anti-aging benefits, such as reducing thinning skin, sensitive skin, fine lines, wrinkles, etc.

[0010] Pichia anomala extract and N-acetylglucosamine act through different biological mechanisms, resulting in different clinical benefits. N-acetylglucosamine is known to be one of the substrates required for HA production. Pichia anomala extract acts through the hydration pathway by increasing the activity of the hyaluronan synthase 2 enzyme, leading to clinical benefits including hydration, improved skin barrier, and firming. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0011] While the art provides for the topical use of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine separately, the present applicants have now unexpectedly discovered that the topical application of a relatively small amount of these two ingredients in combination provides excellent hyaluronic acid-producing activity. This provides significant benefits to the skin, including improving, reducing, preventing, or delaying the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging, and enhancing skin barrier protection and skin moisturization using cost-effective amounts of active substances, particularly Pichia anomala extract. Thus, a new method for treating, for example, the signs of skin aging is now provided. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] The present invention relates to a topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a topical composition comprising about 0.052% by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala and about 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a method for treating the signs of skin aging, comprising topically applying to skin in need of skin aging treatment a topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0015] The present invention further provides a method for improving skin barrier function and moisture retention, the method comprising topically applying to skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisture retention a topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0016] The present invention also provides a method for increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by skin when contacted with an extract of Pichia anomala, the method comprising contacting skin with a composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] The topical composition of the present invention enhances the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin through the synergistic action of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0018] It is believed that one skilled in the art can, based on the description herein, utilize the present invention to its fullest extent. The following specific embodiments are to be construed as merely illustrative, and not limitative of the following disclosure in any way.

[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all scientific and technical terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Furthermore, all publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference. Unless otherwise specified, percentages used to express the amount of a component are weight percentages (i.e., %(W / W)). Similarly, weight ratios used to express the relative proportions of components are also determined using weight percentages (i.e., weight ratios are calculated by dividing the weight percentage of one component by the weight percentage of another component). Unless otherwise specified, all ranges are inclusive of their endpoints; for example, "4 to 9" includes the endpoints 4 and 9.

[0020] As used herein, a "product" refers to a final product, optionally in a packaged state. In one embodiment, the package is a container, such as a plastic, metal, or glass tube or jar, that contains the composition. The product may further include additional packaging, such as a plastic or cardboard box for storing such a container. In one embodiment, the product includes a composition of the present invention and includes instructions instructing the user to apply the composition to the skin or hair.

[0021] As used herein, "topically apply" means to apply or spread directly onto the skin, scalp, or hair, for example, by using the hands or an applicator such as a wipe, roller, or spray.

[0022] As used herein, "cosmetic," particularly as it relates to the appearance of tissue or skin, refers to a cosmetic substance or preparation that maintains, restores, imparts, embellishes, or enhances a physically pleasing appearance or that appears to increase beauty or youthfulness.

[0023] As used herein, "cosmetically acceptable" means that the ingredient it describes is suitable for use in contact with tissue (e.g., skin or hair) without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, or allergic response.

[0024] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention is suitable for treating signs of skin aging.As used herein, "skin aging signs" include the presence of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin, and age spots.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the signs of aging are the presence of fine lines and wrinkles and / or loss of elasticity.

[0025] As used herein, "treating the signs of skin aging" refers to alleviating, reducing, preventing, ameliorating or eliminating the presence or signs of skin aging as described above.

[0026] As used herein, "wrinkles" includes fine lines, fine wrinkles, or coarse wrinkles. Examples of wrinkles include, but are not limited to, fine lines around the eyes (e.g., "crow's feet" lines), wrinkles on the forehead and cheeks, lines between the eyebrows, and laugh lines around the mouth.

[0027] As used herein, "loss of elasticity" includes loss of elasticity or structural integrity of skin or tissue, including, but not limited to, loose, flaccid, and slack tissue. Loss of elasticity or structural integrity of tissue can be the result of many factors, including, but not limited to, disease, aging, hormonal changes, mechanical trauma, environmental damage, or the application of products, such as cosmetic or pharmaceutical products, to the tissue.

[0028] As used herein, "mottled skin" means a skin condition associated with diffuse or patchy pigmentation that can be classified as hyperpigmentation, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

[0029] As used herein, "age spots" refers to a skin condition associated with redness or erythema.

[0030] As used herein, "improving skin firmness" means enhancing skin firmness or elasticity, preventing loss of skin firmness or elasticity, or preventing or treating loose, flaccid, and sagging skin. Skin firmness or elasticity can be measured by using a cutometer. See Handbook Of Non-Invasive Methods And The Skin, eds. J. Serup, G. Jemec & G. Grove, Chapter 66.1 (2006). Loss of skin elasticity or firmness can be the result of many factors, including, but not limited to, aging, environmental damage, or application of cosmetics to the skin.

[0031] As used herein, "improving skin texture" means smoothing the surface of the skin to eliminate either bumps or depressions in the skin surface.

[0032] As used herein, "improving the appearance of wrinkles in the skin" means preventing, slowing, halting or reversing the process of wrinkles and fine lines forming in the skin.

[0033] As used herein, the term "safe and effective amount" means an amount sufficient to induce the desired effect, but small enough to avoid serious side effects. A safe and effective amount of a compound, extract, or composition will vary depending, for example, on the age, health, and environmental exposure of the end user, the duration and nature of the treatment, the particular extract, ingredient, or composition used, the particular carrier employed, and similar factors.

[0034] As used herein, "skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisture retention" means, but is not limited to, skin that lacks moisture, lacks sebum, is cracked, dry, itchy, scaly, xerotic, dehydrated, lacks suppleness, lacks radiance, is dull, or lacks lipids.

[0035] As described herein, applicants have discovered that topical application of a low concentration combination of an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine unexpectedly provides improved skin barrier function, skin moisturization, and skin anti-aging benefits.

[0036] Applicants have also discovered that topical application of a composition containing a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine increases the concentration of endogenous hyaluronic acid ("HA") in the skin above the concentration achieved using Pichia anomala extract alone. Topical use of such a composition can increase the concentration of hyaluronic acid found in younger skin, thereby providing structural support to the skin and reducing the appearance of signs of aging.

[0037] Pichia anomala The topical composition includes one or more extracts of Pichia anomala. Specifically, such extracts may be extracts produced using one of various strains of Pichia anomala isolated from the fruit or other aerial parts of the plant. Any cosmetically acceptable extract of Pichia anomala may be used.

[0038] One example of a suitable extract of Pichia anomala is PRO-LIPISKIN, available from Silab-France, which is produced from a strain of Pichia anomala present in sugarcane.

[0039] Another example of a suitable extract of Pichia anomala is produced from a strain of Pichia anomala present in the fruit or leaves of the kiwi plant.

[0040] The extract of Pichia anomala may be provided as a solution containing about 20% by weight of dry matter (extract), more particularly in the range of 2-10% by weight, and most particularly in the range of 3-7% by weight.

[0041] Solvents for such solutions include water, alcohols, glycols, etc. In one embodiment, the solvent is at least about 90% by weight water, or at least about 95% by weight water.

[0042] N-acetylglucosamine The topical composition also contains n-acetylglucosamine, which has the following structure:

[0043] [ka]

[0044] amount Any suitable amount of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine can be used in the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the compositions contain safe and effective amounts of both ingredients. Specifically, the amounts of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine used are cosmetically acceptable and are selected to achieve the desired skin treatment for a particular condition, such as signs of aging, impaired barrier function, or reduced moisturizing capacity.

[0045] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises about 0.01 to about 1% by weight of Pichia anomala extract, more preferably about 0.025 to about 0.25% by weight of Pichia anomala extract, and in one embodiment, the composition comprises about 0.052% by weight of Pichia anomala extract.

[0046] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, of n-acetylglucosamine. In one embodiment, the composition comprises about 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

[0047] In certain embodiments, the weight ratio of Pichia anomala extract to n-acetylglucosamine in the composition is about 0.01 to about 0.05. In one embodiment, the weight ratio of Pichia anomala extract to n-acetylglucosamine in the composition is about 0.026.

[0048] Topical Compositions The compositions of the present invention are topically applied to human skin or hair. Accordingly, the compositions may further comprise a cosmetically acceptable topical carrier, which may be from about 50% to about 99.99% by weight of the composition (e.g., from about 80% to about 99% by weight of the composition). In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetically acceptable topical carrier comprises water.

[0049] The composition may be made into a wide variety of product types, including, but not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, ointments, cleansing liquids and solid bars, shampoos and hair conditioners, hair fixatives, pastes, foams, powders, mousses, shaving creams, wipes, patches, hydrogels, film-forming products, facial and skin masks, films, and makeup such as foundations and mascaras. These product types may contain several types of cosmetically acceptable topical carriers, including, but not limited to, solutions, suspensions, emulsions such as microemulsions and nanoemulsions, gels, solids, and liposomes. The following are non-limiting examples of such carriers. Those skilled in the art may also be able to formulate other carriers.

[0050] The compositions useful in the present invention can be formulated as solutions. Solutions typically contain an aqueous or organic solvent (e.g., from about 50% to about 99.99% or from about 90% to about 99% cosmetically acceptable aqueous or organic solvent). Examples of suitable organic solvents include propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Compositions useful in the present invention can be formulated as solutions containing an emollient. Such compositions preferably contain about 2% to about 50% emollient(s). As used herein, "emollient" refers to a material used to prevent or alleviate dryness, such as by preventing transepidermal water loss from the skin. Examples of emollients include those well known in the art. Particularly suitable emollients include vegetable oils, mineral oils, fatty esters, and the like.

[0052] A lotion can be made from such a solution. The lotion typically contains about 1% to about 20% (e.g., about 5% to about 10%) of an emollient(s) and about 50% to about 90% (e.g., about 60% to about 80%) water.

[0053] Another type of product that can be formulated from a solution is a cream, which typically contains about 5% to about 50% (e.g., about 10% to about 20%) emollient(s) and about 45% to about 85% (e.g., about 50% to about 75%) water.

[0054] The compositions of the present invention may contain water, may be anhydrous, or may be ointments that contain no water but contain organic and / or silicone solvents, oils, lipids, and waxes. The ointment may contain a simple base of animal or vegetable oil or a semi-solid hydrocarbon. The ointment may contain about 2% to about 10% of an emollient(s) and about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickener(s).

[0055] The composition may be formulated as an emulsion. When the topical carrier is an emulsion, about 1% to about 10% (e.g., about 2% to about 5%) of the topical carrier contains an emulsifier(s). The emulsifier may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. Examples of emulsifiers are well known in the art.

[0056] Lotions and creams can be formulated as emulsions. Typically, such lotions contain 0.5% to about 5% emulsifier(s). Such creams typically contain about 1% to about 20% (e.g., about 5% to about 10%) emollient(s), about 20% to about 80% (e.g., about 30% to about 70%) water, and about 1% to about 10% (e.g., about 2% to about 5%) emulsifier(s).

[0057] Single-phase emulsion skin care formulations, such as lotions and creams, of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil types, are well known in the cosmetic arts and are useful in the present invention. Multiphase emulsion compositions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil types, are also useful in the present invention. Generally, such single-phase or multiphase emulsions contain water, emollients, and emulsifiers as essential ingredients.

[0058] The compositions of the present invention can also be formulated as gels (e.g., aqueous, alcohol, alcohol / water, or oil gels using a suitable gelling agent). Suitable gelling agents for aqueous and / or alcoholic gels include, but are not limited to, natural gums, acrylic acid and acrylate polymers and copolymers, and cellulose derivatives (e.g., hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose). Suitable gelling agents for oils (such as mineral oil) include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers and hydrogenated ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymers. Such gels typically contain about 0.1% to 5% by weight of such gelling agents.

[0059] In one embodiment, the composition is a gel-cream. The cosmetic properties of gel-creams are characterized by a watery break, a translucent appearance, and a light feel. As used herein, the term "gel-cream" refers to a formulation in which a low concentration of oil droplets is suspended in an aqueous gel matrix.

[0060] The compositions of the present invention can also be formulated into solid formulations (eg, wax-based sticks, bar soap compositions, powders, or wipes containing powders).

[0061] In addition to the above ingredients, the composition may contain additional oil-soluble and / or water-soluble materials conventionally used in skin and hair compositions in concentrations established in the art.

[0062] Additional cosmetic active agents The compositions of the present invention may further comprise any of a variety of additional cosmetic active agents. Examples of suitable additional active agents include skin lightening agents, tanning agents, additional anti-aging agents, tropoelastin promoters, collagen promoters, anti-acne agents, sheen adjusting agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., anti-yeast, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agents), anti-inflammatory agents, anti-parasitic agents, topical analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotective agents, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, detergents / surfactants, moisturizers, nutrients, vitamins, energy enhancers, antiperspirants, astringents, deodorants, hair removal agents, hair growth enhancing agents, hair growth retarding agents, stabilizers, hydration enhancers, efficacy enhancers, anti-callus agents, skin conditioning agents, anti-cellulite agents, malodor counteractants (e.g., malodor masking agents), or pH altering agents.

[0063] Examples of various suitable additional cosmetically acceptable actives include: Hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol, UV filters [avobenzone (PARSOL 1789), bisdisulizole disodium (NEO HELIOPAN AP), diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (UVINUL A Plus), ecamsule (MEXORYL SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (UVINUL T150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (PARSOL 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), octyl salicylate (Octisalate), padimate O (ESCALOL 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ENSULIZOLE), polysilicone-15 (PARSOL SLX), trolamine salicylate, bemotrizinol (TINOSORB S), benzophenone 1-12, dioxybenzone, drometrizole trisiloxane (MEXORYL XL), isocotridinol (UVASORB HEB), octocrylene, oxybenzone (EUSOLEX 4360), sulisobenzone, bisoctrizole (TINOSORB M), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. ], carotenoids, free radical scavengers, spin traps, retinoids and retinoid precursors (e.g., retinol, retinoic acid, and retinyl palmitate), ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, hormones (e.g., estrogen), steroids such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol, copper salts (e.g., copper chloride), copper-containing peptides, coenzyme Q10, amino acids (e.g., proline), vitamins, lactobionic acid, acetyl-coenzyme A, niacin, riboflavin, thiamine, ribose, electron transporters (e.g., NADH and FADH2), and other plant extracts (e.g., extracts of oat, aloe vera, feverfew, soybean, shiitake mushroom), and derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0064] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine and at least one additional skin moisturizing active agent.

[0065] In certain preferred embodiments, the skin care composition comprises a combination of Pichia anomala extract, n-acetylglucosamine, and at least one additional agent for improving the appearance of at least one sign of aging of the skin. Examples of suitable additional agents for improving the appearance of at least one sign of aging of the skin include, but are not limited to, tropoelastin promoters, collagen promoters, retinoids, hyaluronic acid, including cross-linked hyaluronic acid, dimethylaminoethanol, N,N,N',N'-tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine, alpha hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0066] "Tropoelastin promoter," as used herein, refers to a class of compounds that have the biological activity of enhancing the production of tropoelastin. Tropoelastin promoters according to the present invention include all natural or synthetic compounds that are capable of enhancing the production of tropoelastin in the human body.

[0067] Examples of suitable tropoelastin promoters include, but are not limited to, blackberry extract, cotinue extract, feverfew extract, and bimetallic complexes having copper and / or zinc components. The bimetallic complexes having copper and / or zinc components may be, for example, copper-zinc citrate, copper-zinc oxalate, copper-zinc tartrate, copper-zinc malate, copper-zinc succinate, copper-zinc malonate, copper-zinc maleate, copper-zinc aspartate, copper-zinc glutamate, copper-zinc glutarate, copper-zinc fumarate, copper-zinc glucarate, copper-zinc polyacrylate, copper-zinc adipate, copper-zinc pimelate, copper-zinc suberate, copper-zinc azelaate, copper-zinc sebacate, copper-zinc dodecanoate, or combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the tropoelastin promoter is selected from blackberry extract, cotinue extract, feverfew extract, and combinations thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the tropoelastin promoter is selected from blackberry extract, feverfew extract, and combinations thereof.

[0068] "Blackberry extract" refers to a blend of compounds isolated from plants of the Rubus genus, preferably Rubus napus. In one embodiment, the compounds are isolated from the plant's flowers. In a further embodiment, the compounds are isolated from dried plant flowers. Such compounds may be isolated from one or more parts of the plant (e.g., the whole plant, the plant's flowers, seeds, roots, rhizomes, stems, fruits, and / or leaves). In a preferred embodiment, the blackberry extract is blackberry leaf extract. One particularly suitable blackberry extract is produced by extracting blackberry leaves with a mixture of water and ethanol formulated to about 5% to about 10% actives using a maltodextrin matrix, and is commercially available from Symrise Inc. (Teterboro, NJ) and sold under the trade name SYMMATRIX.

[0069] Compositions of the present invention may contain a cosmetically effective amount of one or more tropoelastin promoters (such as those described above), preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% tropoelastin promoter, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, based on actives.

[0070] "Collagen promoter," as used herein, refers to a biologically active compound that enhances collagen production. "Non-retinoid collagen promoters" according to the present invention include any natural or synthetic compound that is not a retinoid or derived from a retinoid and that is capable of enhancing collagen production in the human body.

[0071] Examples of suitable collagen promoters include, but are not limited to, retinoids including retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid, extract of feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), extract of Centella asiatica and extract of menthol (Siegesbeckia orientalis), extract of soybean, collagen-promoting peptides, ursolic acid, and asiaticoside.

[0072] Centella asiatica, also known as Violette marronne in Reunion Island, Gotu Kola or Indian Centella in India, Centella repanda in North America, and Talapetraka in Madagascar, is a polymorphic herb belonging to the Apiaceae family, specifically the Hydrocotyleae subfamily. It grows wild throughout the tropics, preferring humid, shady areas at altitudes of approximately 600 to 1,200 meters above sea level. Centella asiatica has three varieties: Typica, Abyssinica, and Floridana. This herb is known and used for its healing, sedative, analgesic, antidepressant, antiviral, and antimicrobial properties. The herb's biological activity is believed to be due to the presence of triterpene molecules in the herb. A suitable Centella asiatica extract is available as TECA from Bayer Consumer HealthCare (Basel, Switzerland).

[0073] "Mentha umbellata extract" means any of various extracts of the Mentha umbellata plant, including Darutoside, available from Sederma (Croda International Group, Edison, NJ).

[0074] Suitable collagen-promoting peptides include matrikine peptides (i.e., peptides derived from the degradation of extracellular matrix proteins—collagen, elastin, or proteoglycans), including palmitoyl pentapeptide (e.g., MATRIXYL from Sederma (Croda International Group, Edison, NJ)), GHK copper peptide available as PROCYTE from Photomedex (Montgomeryville, PA), palmitoyl GHK peptide available as Biopoeptide CL from Sederma (Croda International Group, Edison, NJ), biomimetic tetrapeptides such as those available as Chronoline Tri Peptide from Unipex (Quebec, Canada), and palmitoyl tripeptide available as Syn-Coll from DSM (Basel, Switzerland).

[0075] Ursolic acid is also known as pentacyclic triterpene acid, prunol, malol, urson, β-ursolic acid, and 3-β-hydroxy-urs-12-en-28-oic acid. It is commercially available, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich (St. Louis, MO).

[0076] Asiaticoside, also known chemically as [6-[[3,4-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)-5-(3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-methyloxan-2-yl)oxyoxan-2-yl]oxymethyl]-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]10,11-dihydroxy-9-(hydroxymethyl)-1,2,6a,6b,9,12a-hexamethyl-2,3,4,5,6,6a,7,8,8a,10,11,12,13,14b-tetradecahydro-1H-picene-4a-carboxylate), is commercially available, for example, from Bayer Sante Familiale Division Serdex, 69, Boulevard Victor Hugo 93400 SAINT-OUEN France.

[0077] The compositions of the present invention may contain a cosmetically effective amount of one or more collagen promoters, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% collagen promoter, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% collagen promoter, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% collagen promoter, based on actives.

[0078] The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one skin whitening active agent.Examples of suitable skin whitening active agents include but are not limited to tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin decomposition agents, melanosome transfer inhibitors (including PAR-2 ​​antagonists), peeling agents, sunscreens, retinoids, antioxidants, tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid cetyl ester hydrochloride, skin whitening agents, linoleic acid, adenosine monophosphate disodium salt, chamomile extract, allantoin, opacifiers, talc and silica, zinc salts, etc., and other agents as described in Solano et al. Pigment Cell Res. 19 (550-571) and Ando et al. Int J Mol Sci 11 (2566-2575).

[0079] Examples of suitable tyrosinase inhibitors include, but are not limited to, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, resorcinol, hydroquinone, flavones (e.g., licorice flavanoids, licorice root extract, mulberry root extract, Dioscorea Coposita root extract, Saxifragaceae extract, etc.), ellagic acid, salicylate and derivatives, glucosamine and derivatives, fullerenes, hinokitiol, diacids, 5,5'-dipropyl-biphenyl-2,2'-diol (magnolignan), 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (4-HPB), and combinations of two or more thereof. Examples of vitamin C derivatives include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and natural extracts enriched with vitamin C. Derivatives of vitamin E include, but are not limited to, α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, α-tocotrienol, β-tocotrienol, γ-tocotrienol, δ-tocotrienol, and mixtures thereof, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol phosphate, and natural extracts enriched with vitamin E derivatives. Examples of resorcinol derivatives include, but are not limited to, resorcinol, 4-substituted resorcinols (e.g., 4-alkylresorcinols such as 4-butylresorcinol (Rucinol), 4-hexylresorcinol (Synovea HR, Sytheon), phenylethylresorcinol (Symwhite, Symrise), and 1-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl)-propane (Nibitol, Unigen)), and resorcinol-rich natural extracts. Examples of salicylates include, but are not limited to, 4-methoxypotassium salicylate, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, and salts thereof.In certain preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor includes a 4-substituted resorcinol, a vitamin C derivative, or a vitamin E derivative. In more preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor includes phenylethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, or ascorbyl-2-glucoside.

[0080] Examples of suitable melanin degrading agents include, but are not limited to, peroxides and enzymes (e.g., peroxidase and ligninase). In certain preferred embodiments, the melanin inhibitor includes peroxide or ligninase.

[0081] Examples of suitable melanosome transfer inhibitors include PAR-2 ​​antagonists (e.g., soybean trypsin inhibitor or Bowman-Birk inhibitor), vitamin B3 and derivatives (e.g., niacinamide), essential soybean, whole soybean, soybean extract. In certain preferred embodiments, the melanosome transfer inhibitor includes soybean extract or niacinamide.

[0082] Examples of exfoliants include, but are not limited to, alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or any combination of any of the foregoing), beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid, polyhydroxy acids such as lactobionic acid and gluconic acid), and mechanical exfoliants (e.g., microdermabrasions). In certain preferred embodiments, the exfoliant includes glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

[0083] Examples of retinoids include, but are not limited to, retinol (vitamin A alcohol), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, isotretinoin, tazarotene, bexarotene, adapalene, and combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the retinoid is selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, and combinations of two or more thereof. In certain more preferred embodiments, the retinoid is retinol.

[0084] Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetyl-cysteine, glutathione), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, stilbenoids (e.g., resveratrol and derivatives), lactoferrin, iron and copper chelators, and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl-2-glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbyl polypeptide). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopherol acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinone. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and daidzein), extracts containing resveratrol, etc. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, black tea, white tea, pine bark, feverfew, parthenolide-free feverfew, oat extract, blackberry extract, cognac extract, soybean extract, pomelo extract, wheat germ extract, hesperedin, grape extract, purslane extract, licochalcone, chalcone, 2,2'-dihydroxychalcone, primrose extract, propolis, and the like.

[0085] The additional cosmetic active agent may be present in the composition in any suitable amount, such as from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of the composition, such as from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, etc. In certain preferred embodiments, the amount is from 0.1% to 5%, and in other preferred embodiments, from 1% to 2%.

[0086] The compositions of the present invention may contain a cosmetically effective amount of one or more anti-inflammatory compounds.

[0087] Examples of suitable anti-inflammatory agents include substituted resorcinols, (E)-3-(4-methylphenylsulfonyl)-2-propenenitrile (e.g., "Bay 11-7082" commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich, St. Louis, Missouri), tetrahydrocurcuminoids (e.g., tetrahydrocurcuminoid CG available from Sabinsa Corporation, Piscataway, NJ), extracts and substances from the following: Phellodendron amurense hull extract (PCE), unmodified soybean (Glycine max), feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), ginger (Zingiber officinale), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), madecassoside (a component of Centella asiatica extract), Cotinus coggygria, butterbur extract (Petasites hybridus), wolfberry (Lycium barbarum), milk thistle extract (Silybum marianum), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), balsam of Peru (Myroxylon pereirae), sage (Salvia officinalis), cranberry extract (Vaccinium oxycoccos), amaranth oil (Amaranthus cruentus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract), white lily extract (Lilium candidum), olive leaf extract (Olea europaea), phloretin (apple extract), oat flour (Aveena sativa), Lifenol (hops, Humulus lupulus) extract, Buglane P (Ononis spinosa), licochalcone (licorice, Glycyrrhiza inflate extract), Symrelief (bisabolol and ginger extract), and combinations of two or more of these.

[0088] In one embodiment, the anti-inflammatory agent is resorcinol. Particularly suitable substituted resorcinols include 4-hexylresorcinol and 4-octylresorcinol, especially 4-hexylresorcinol. 4-Hexylresorcinol is commercially available as SYNOVEA HR from Sytheon (Lincoln Park, NJ). 4-Octylresorcinol is commercially available from City Chemical LLC (West Haven, Connecticut).

[0089] By "feverfew extract" is meant an extract of the plant "feverfew," which may be produced, for example, according to the details set forth in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2007 / 0196523, entitled "PARTHENOLIDE FREE BIOACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM FEVERFEW (TANACETUM PARTHENIUM) AND PROCESSES FOR THEIR PRODUCTION." One particularly suitable feverfew extract is commercially available from Integrated Botanical Technologies (Ossining, NY) as about 20% active feverfew.

[0090] In the skin care compositions of the present invention, the ratio of the combined amount of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to the amount of anti-inflammatory compound can vary. For example, the extract and anti-inflammatory compound may be present in a weight ratio (determined by dividing the weight of the dry extract by the weight of the anti-inflammatory compound) of about 0.001 to about 100, preferably about 0.01 to about 10, and more preferably about 0.25 to about 2.

[0091] A variety of other materials may be present in the compositions of the present invention. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more topically applied ingredients selected from the group consisting of surfactants, chelating agents, emollients, moisturizers, conditioners, preservatives, opacifiers, fragrances, and the like.

[0092] Emollient refers to the compound that helps maintain the soft, smooth and supple appearance of skin (for example, by remaining on the surface or stratum corneum of skin and acting as lubricant).Suitable examples of emollient include those that can be found in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001, Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York, NY), Chapter 35, page 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, written by G Zocchi), for example, include but are not limited to petrolatum, hexyldecyl stearate, and plant, nut and vegetable oil (for example, macadamia nut oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, palm oil, primrose oil, hydrogenated peanut oil and avocado oil).

[0093] Moisturizing agent refers to the compound (for example, hygroscopic compound) intended to increase the moisture content of the uppermost layer of skin.Suitable moisturizing agent examples include those found in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001, Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York, NY), Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, written by G Zocchi), such as but not limited to glycerin, sorbitol or trehalose (for example, α,α-trehalose, β,β-trehalose, α,β-trehalose) or their salt or ester (for example, trehalose-6-phosphate).

[0094] In one embodiment, the composition contains glycerin. For example, the composition contains at least about 4% by weight of glycerin. The composition may contain at least about 10% by weight of glycerin.

[0095] In another embodiment, the composition has a pH of about 6.5. For example, the composition can have a pH of about 5.5 to about 6.

[0096] In certain embodiments, the composition contains about 0.052% by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala and about 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

[0097] The composition may further comprise about 1 to about 2% by weight of a mixture of cetearyl-olivate and sorbitan-olivate, about 4 to about 5% by weight of glycerin, and at least about 65% by weight of water, and may have a pH of less than about 6.

[0098] Surfactants refer to surface active agents intended for cleansing or emulsifying. Examples of suitable surfactants include those found in Chapter 37, pages 431-450 (Classification of surfactants, by L. Oldenhove de Guertechin) of Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, NY), including, but not limited to, anionic surfactants such as sulfates, cationic surfactants such as betaine, amphoteric surfactants such as sodium cocoglycinate, and nonionic surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides.

[0099] Examples of suitable chelating agents include those capable of protecting and preserving the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the chelating agent is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid ("EDTA"), more preferably tetrasodium EDTA, available commercially under the trade name VERSENE 100XL from Dow Chemical Company, Midland, Michigan.

[0100] Suitable preservatives include, for example, parabens, quaternary ammonium species, phenoxyethanol, benzoates, DMDM ​​hydantoin, organic acids, and are present in the composition in an amount of about 0 to about 1%, or about 0.05% to about 0.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Any of a variety of conditioners that impart additional attributes, such as gloss, to hair are suitable for use in the present invention. Examples include, but are not limited to, volatile silicone conditioning agents having an atmospheric boiling point of less than about 220°C. Examples of suitable volatile silicones include, but are not limited to, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylcyclosiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, cyclomethicone fluids, such as the polydimethylcyclosiloxane commercially available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan) under the trade name "DC-345," and mixtures thereof, and preferably cyclomethicone fluids. Other suitable conditioners include cationic polymers, including polyquaterniums, cationic guar, and the like.

[0102] Any of a variety of commercially available pearlizing or opacifying agents are suitable for use in the compositions. Examples of suitable pearlizing or opacifying agents include, but are not limited to, the following: (a) a fatty acid having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and (b) a mono- or diester of either ethylene or propylene glycol; (a) a fatty acid having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; (b) a mono- or diester of the formula HO-(JO) a mono- or diesters of polyalkylene glycols of the formula -H, where J is an alkylene group having from about 2 to about 3 carbon atoms and a is 2 or 3; aliphatic alcohols containing from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; aliphatic esters of the formula KCOOCH2L, where K and L independently contain from about 15 to about 21 carbon atoms; inorganic solids insoluble in the shampoo composition; and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Any fragrance composition suitable for use on the skin may be used in accordance with the present invention.

[0104] In a particular preferred embodiment, the present invention is in the form of a substrate comprising the composition of the present invention.Any suitable substrate can be used.Examples of suitable substrates and substrate materials are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Patent Application Publication Nos. 2005 / 0226834 and 2009 / 0241242, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0105] In certain preferred embodiments, the substrate is a wipe, glove, or facial mask. Preferably, such embodiments are comprised of a water-soluble substrate as defined in the references cited above. In certain embodiments, the water-soluble substrate can have a size and shape that covers the face of a human user, facilitating placement of the water-soluble substrate around the user's face as a mask substrate. For example, the water-soluble mask substrate can have openings for the user's mouth, nose, and / or eyes. Alternatively, the water-soluble substrate can be free of such openings. Such an apertureless configuration can be useful in embodiments of the present invention in which the water-soluble substrate is to be worn over skin areas other than the face, or when the water-soluble substrate is intended for use as a wipe. The water-soluble substrate can have a variety of shapes, including angular shapes (e.g., rectangular) or arcuate shapes, such as circular or oval. In certain embodiments, the substrate is a glove, as described in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2006 / 0141014, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment of the present invention, the product comprises multiple water-soluble substrates of different shapes.

[0106] The present invention further includes a method for improving skin barrier function and moisture retention by applying a Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to skin in need of such improvement. The method includes, for example, topically applying a composition of the present invention containing a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to skin in need of such improvement. Such topical application may be performed on any skin in need of skin treatment, such as the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, feet, and / or legs. The combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine is preferably applied in an effective amount to achieve the desired improvement in skin barrier function.

[0107] The present invention further includes a method for improving the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging by applying a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to skin in need of treatment. This method includes, for example, topically applying a composition of the present invention containing a combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine to skin in need of treatment for at least one sign of skin aging. Such topical application may be to any skin in need of treatment on the body, e.g., the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, feet, and / or legs. The combination of Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine is preferably applied in an effective amount to achieve the desired improvement in the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging.

[0108] Any suitable method for applying the composition to the skin in need may be used. For example, the composition may be applied directly to the skin in need from the package, may be applied by hand to the skin in need, may be transferred from a substrate such as a wipe or a mask, or may be a combination of two or more of these. In other embodiments, the composition may be applied via a dropper, a tube, a roller, a spray, or a patch, or may be added to water that is applied to a bathtub or otherwise applied to the skin. The composition may be applied in various ways / forms, including, but not limited to, leave-on creams, masks, and / or serums.

[0109] In certain embodiments, the methods of the present invention include applying to the skin at least two different compositions or products comprising a Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine. For example, the methods can include applying a first composition comprising a Pichia anomala extract, followed by applying a second composition comprising n-acetylglucosamine, different from the first composition, to the skin in need of treatment.

[0110] In certain preferred embodiments, the first and second compositions can be independently selected from the group consisting of lotions, cleansers, masks, wipes, creams, serums, gels, etc. In certain preferred embodiments, at least one of the first and second compositions is a cleanser, lotion, cream, essence, or serum, and the other is a facial mask or wipe. In certain other preferred embodiments, at least one of the first and second compositions is a cleanser, and the other is a lotion or cream.

[0111] The compositions and formulations and products containing such compositions of the present invention can be prepared using methods well known to those skilled in the art. These compositions can be useful in treating aging skin, such as wrinkles, loss of firmness, uneven skin, including reducing blotchiness. The compositions can be used daily and are substantially free of skin irritants.

[0112] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a method for increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by skin when contacted with an extract of Pichia anomala, comprising contacting the skin with a composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and N-acetylglucosamine. This allows the Pichia anomala extract to be used at low concentrations, e.g., less than about 0.1% by weight, or less than about 0.08% by weight, e.g., about 0.052% by weight, while still achieving good HA production. N-acetylglucosamine can act as an activity enhancer of the Pichia anomala extract in inducing HA production by the skin.

[0113] The following non-limiting examples further illustrate the present invention. [Example]

[0114] Example 1 Hyaluronic acid (HA) production by human skin grafts was measured after treating the skin grafts with Test Compositions 1 to 4 containing different amounts of Pichia anomala extract as follows:

[0115] First, a gel containing each of the components listed in Table 1 was prepared.

[0116] [Table 1]

[0117] Compositions 1-4 were prepared by combining 2% by weight of the gel with varying amounts of a 5% aqueous solution of Pichia anomala extract and additional ingredients. Pichia anomala was grown on kiwi plants. The 5% aqueous solution was treated as a 100% stock solution.

[0118] Compositions 1 to 4 contained the ingredients shown in Table 2.

[0119] [Table 2]

[0120] Hyaluronan production by Compositions 1-4 was measured immunohistochemically on normal human skin grafts obtained from three donors (aged 29, 30, and 55 years). Eight-mm diameter punched pieces were cut from the grafts, attached to small pieces of sterile gauze, and one graft was placed in each well of a 6-well plate with 3 mL of culture medium. The culture medium was sold under the trade name GIBCO DMEM / F-12 (ThermoFisher Scientific, Waltham, MA, Catalog No. 11514436), and 1% GIBCO penicillin-streptomycin (ThermoFisher Scientific, Catalog No. 11528876) and 0.1% amphotericin B were sold under the trade name FUNGIZONE (ThermoFisher Scientific, Catalog No. 11510496).

[0121] For each test composition, 5 μL of the test composition was applied to the graft once daily for 5 days. An untreated graft sample was used as a control. On day 7, the grafts were harvested, wiped with sterile gauze, cut in half lengthwise, and fixed in 4% paraformaldehyde (V / V). On day 8, the grafts were dehydrated and embedded in paraffin. Each test composition was tested in triplicate.

[0122] Paraffin-prepared slides were washed with xylene and subjected to epitope retrieval using target retrieval solutions sold under the trade names PT-Link (Agilent, Santa Clara, CA) and ENVISION Flex, High pH (Dako, DM828, Agilent, Santa Clara, CA). Slides were then rinsed once for 10 minutes with wash buffer sold under the trade name ENVISION (Dako, DM831, Agilent, Santa Clara, CA). After permeabilization and saturation for 30 minutes with PBS 0.3% Triton / 5% goat serum (Dako, Santa Clara, CA; catalog number CP3418 / X090710-8), slides were labeled overnight at 4°C with hyaluronic acid-binding protein (HABP, sold by Calbiochem; catalog number 385911, MilliporeSigma, St. Louis, NJ). The following day, slides were rinsed three times with PBS for 5 minutes each. The antibodies were exposed using a biotin-binding protein covalently linked to a fluorescent label, sold under the trade name ALEXA FLUOR488 Streptavidin (Invitrogen™, catalog number S11223), and nuclei were stained with 5 μg / mL DAPI solution (Dako, Santa Clara, CA) for 30 minutes at ambient temperature. Slides were then rinsed with PBS and mounted with Fluoprep mounting medium (bioMerieux UK Ltd., UK, catalog number 75521).

[0123] Photographs of the skin sections were taken with an Olympus IX70 fluorescence microscope (Olympus Corporation, Japan) connected to an image analysis system (NIS-ELEMENTS AR software, Nikon Instruments, Melville, NY). Quantitative analysis of the images was performed using ImageJ software.

[0124] The results are shown in Table 3. The results are expressed as the mean fluorescence intensity of the dermis in arbitrary units (AU). The fluorescence intensity (green) is proportional to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

[0125] [Table 3]

[0126] These results indicate that HA production by the skin is maximal when Pichia anomala extract is used at approximately 0.13% by weight, above which HA production plateaus.

[0127] Example 2 Hyaluronic acid (HA) production by human skin grafts was measured after treatment with compositions 5 to 7 according to the present invention containing Pichia anomala extract and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0128] Compositions 5 to 7 contained the components shown in Table 4.

[0129] [Table 4]

[0130] The composition was prepared in phases. Phase A was prepared by combining water and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer in a kettlebell mixer and mixing with a propeller until completely dispersed, smooth, and uniform. Phase B was prepared by premixing sclerotium gum and glycerin until uniform, then adding to the main kettle and mixing again until smooth and uniform. The main kettle was then heated to 70-75°C. Phase C was then prepared by adding chlorphenesin, cetearyl-olivate, and sorbitan-olivate to the main kettle using a Greerco high-speed homogenizer and mixing until a smooth, uniform bulk was formed. The main kettle was then cooled to 60°C while mixing with a sweep blade. Phase D was prepared by combining water and n-acetylglucosamine in a separate kettle while heating to 65°C, then adding glycerin, glyceryl dilaurate, and steareth-10, mixing until uniform, and holding at 65°C. Once Phase D was uniform, it was added to the main kettle at 65°C and mixed with a sweep mix until uniform. The mixture was then cooled to 40°C. Phase E was prepared by combining dimethicone / dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone in a second side kettle, mixing until uniform, then adding the dimethicone / dimethiconol to the main kettle at 40°C. For Phase F, Pichia anomala extract, ethylhexylglycerin, and phenoxyethanol were added to the main kettle at or below 40°C and mixed until uniform. Finally, the main kettle was cooled to 30°C. If necessary, the pH was adjusted to 5.5-6 with 20% citric acid and / or 20% sodium hydroxide (Phase G).

[0131] Each composition was evaluated for alteration of HAPB production relative to untreated controls using the skin transplant model described in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0132] [Table 5]

[0133] Compositions 5–7 each contained up to 0.078% by weight of Pichia anomala extract, yet all stimulated high levels of hyaluronan production in the grafts in the presence of n-acetylglucosamine. Composition 7 produced particularly good results. Although Composition 7 contained only 0.052% by weight of Pichia anomala extract with 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine, the Δ of HABP relative to the control was 16.15, which was unexpectedly higher than the Δ of HABP relative to the control (10.37) obtained with Composition 1 of Example 1, which contained roughly the same amount of Pichia anomala extract (0.065% by weight).

[0134] [Embodiment] (1) A topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine. (2) The topical composition of embodiment 1, wherein the extract of Pichia anomala is prepared from a strain of Pichia anomala present in kiwi fruit or leaves. (3) The topical composition of embodiment 1, wherein the extract of Pichia anomala is prepared from a strain of Pichia anomala present in sugarcane. (4) The topical composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the extract of Pichia anomala to n-acetylglucosamine in the topical composition is about 0.026. (5) The topical composition of embodiment 1, further comprising at least 4% by weight of glycerin.

[0135] (6) The topical composition of embodiment 1, having a pH of about 6.5 or less. (7) A topical composition comprising about 0.052% by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala and about 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine. (8) The topical composition of embodiment 7, further comprising about 1 to about 2% by weight of a mixture of cetearyl-olivate and sorbitan-olivate, about 4 to about 5% by weight of glycerin, and at least about 65% by weight of water, and having a pH of less than about 6. (9) A method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising topically applying to skin in need of skin aging treatment a topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine. (10) A method for improving skin barrier function and moisture retention, comprising topically applying to skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisture retention a topical composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine.

[0136] (11) A method for increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by skin when contacted with an extract of Pichia anomala, the method comprising contacting the skin with a composition comprising the extract of Pichia anomala and n-acetylglucosamine. (12) The method of embodiment 11, wherein the composition comprises about 0.052% by weight of the extract of Pichia anomala and about 2% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine. (13) The method of embodiment 12, wherein the composition further comprises about 1 to about 2% by weight of a mixture of cetearyl-olivate and sorbitan-olivate, about 4 to about 5% by weight of glycerin, and at least about 65% by weight of water, and has a pH of less than about 6.

Claims

1. A topical composition comprising: (i) 0.025 to 0.078% by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala; and (ii) 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

2. 10. The topical composition of claim 1, comprising: (i) 0.026-0.052% by weight of the extract of Pichia anomala; and (ii) 2.0-3.0% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine; or (i) 0.052-0.078% by weight of the extract of Pichia anomala; and (ii) 1.0-2.0% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

3. 10. The topical composition of claim 1, comprising 0.052% by weight of the extract of Pichia anomala.

4. 4. The topical composition of claim 3, comprising 2.0% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

5. 10. The topical composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the extract of Pichia anomala to n-acetylglucosamine in the topical composition is 0.

026.

6. 3. The topical composition of claim 2, further comprising at least 4% by weight of glycerin.

7. 3. The topical composition of claim 2 having a pH of 6.5 or less.

8. 8. The topical composition of claim 7, further comprising 1-2% by weight of a mixture of cetearyl-olivate and sorbitan-olivate, 4-5% by weight of glycerin, and at least 65% by weight of water, and having a pH of less than 6.

9. 10. A method for treating the signs of skin aging (excluding medical procedures on humans), comprising topically applying the topical composition of any one of claims 1 to 8 to skin in need of said skin aging treatment.

10. 10. A method for improving skin barrier function and moisture retention, the method (excluding medical procedures on humans) comprising topically applying the topical composition of any one of claims 1 to 8 to skin in need of said improved skin barrier function and moisture retention.

11. 1. A method for enhancing the increase in the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by skin by contacting said skin with an extract of Pichia anomala, comprising: The method comprises: Preparing a topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 by adding n-acetylglucosamine to a composition comprising an extract of Pichia anomala; contacting the topical composition with the skin; The topical composition is a gel cream (excluding medical procedures for humans).

12. 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the topical composition comprises 0.052% by weight of the extract of Pichia anomala and 2.0% by weight of n-acetylglucosamine.

13. 13. The method of claim 12, wherein the topical composition further comprises 1-2% by weight of a mixture of cetearyl-olivate and sorbitan-olivate, 4-5% by weight of glycerin, and at least 65% by weight of water, and has a pH of less than 6.

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