Cosmetic makeup composition that provides ideal long-lasting effects on the skin

Abstract

To provide a cosmetic skin make-up composition that exhibits a long-lasting skin-perfecting effect and imparts a natural glow to the complexion.SOLUTION: The present invention concerns a cosmetic make-up composition for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, in the form of an emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a) a phenylated silicone oil represented by formula below, b) a fat-soluble film-forming polymer, preferably a silicone film-forming polymer, c) a water-soluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers, and d) a coloring material, preferably a pigment. In the formula, the groups R independently represent a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, indeed at least four of them, indeed at least five of them being phenyls].SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic skin make-up composition that provides ideal long-lasting benefits and a natural glow to the skin complexion. [Background technology]

[0002] Skin makeup compositions, especially foundations, have been used for many years to improve the aesthetic appearance of the skin, especially by reducing visible and / or tactile irregularities. Consumers today are seeking comfortable, lightweight galenical formulations that provide a natural makeup result without compromising the makeup result (covered but natural) and durability over time (preferably 24 hours). While traditionally known foundations are used in the form of water-in-oil emulsions containing silicone oils that provide good skin adhesion, hydrophobically treated pigments, and film-forming polymers to improve the durability of the deposit, there is a need for new compositions that provide ideal skin effects and a natural glow over a long period of time. Those skilled in the art have several options at their disposal for achieving this result by adjusting the properties of the composition's components, especially the properties of fillers, pigments, oils, and / or film-forming polymers.

[0003] However, the applicant has shown that by using a particular phenylated silicone oil, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, in an emulsion-like composition comprising oil, film-forming polymer and colorant, compared to other silicone oils or hydrocarbon gloss oils, it is possible to achieve this natural skin tone radiance performance without compromising either the makeup result (natural coverage) or the cosmetic properties of its deposition (non-stickiness and long-lasting deposition). Summary of the Invention

[0004] The first object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, in the form of an emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a) Formula (I): [ka] wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, and at least three, and in practice at least four, and in practice at least five, of the R groups are phenyl. Phenylated silicone oil represented by b) a lipophilic film-forming polymer, preferably a silicone film-forming polymer; c) a water-soluble film-forming polymer selected from homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, and (d) a composition comprising a colorant, preferably a pigment.

[0005] The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetically making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, which method comprises applying at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.

[0006] This method is specifically designed to give the skin ideal long-lasting results and a natural glow to the complexion.

[0007] According to the invention, "skin-optimizing effect" means an improvement in the aesthetic appearance of the skin, in particular a reduction in visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin.

[0008] According to the present invention, "ideal long-lasting effect on the skin" means that this effect is maintained for a period ranging from 12 hours to 24 hours, more preferably for 24 hours.

[0009] According to the present invention, "imparting a natural glow to the skin tone" means a fresh, bright skin tone, a healthy glow effect without a masking effect. The terms "glow" or "healthy glow" effect are also used to characterize this natural, radiant skin tone.

[0010] Detailed Description of the Invention The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic makeup composition in emulsion form, in particular for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a) Formula (I): [ka] wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, and at least three, and in practice at least four, and in practice at least five, of the R groups are phenyl. Phenylated silicone oil represented by b) a lipophilic film-forming polymer, preferably a silicone film-forming polymer; c) a water-soluble film-forming polymer selected from homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone d) a composition comprising a colorant, preferably a pigment.

[0011] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-silicone emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion, such as a triple emulsion.

[0012] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are water-in-oil emulsions, especially water-in-silicone emulsions.

[0013] Oil phase The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one oil phase.

[0014] "Oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of intermixable oils.

[0015] In the context of the present invention, "oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0016] The oil phase according to the present invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a silicone oil.

[0017] These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0018] According to certain preferred embodiments, it comprises a mixture of at least one volatile and non-volatile oil.

[0019] According to the present invention, by "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a volatile nature as defined by at least one of the criteria defined below.

[0020] Volatility, in the context of the present invention, can be defined, for example, by the vapor pressure, measurable by empirical methods at 25°C, ranging from 2.6 Pa to 40,000 Pa, e.g., from 5 Pa to 20,000 Pa, from 10 Pa to 8,000 Pa, and in practice from 15 Pa to 150 Pa. The vapor pressure is measured by one of the methods most suitable for the compound in question, in particular the method recommended in the document "OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals - Vapor Pressure" (no. 104 adopted on 23 March 2006). Alternatively, a volatile oil can be selected whose boiling point at atmospheric pressure is below 250°C, preferably below 230°C, and preferably between 150°C and 220°C. Finally, a volatile oil can also be defined as an oil having a flash point in the range of 35°C to 100°C, preferably between 40°C and 80°C.

[0021] According to the present invention, "non-volatile oil" means an oil that does not meet the volatility criteria defined above, in particular an oil having a vapor pressure measurable by empirical methods at 25°C, in particular a vapor pressure measured by the above-mentioned method of less than 2.6 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.

[0022] According to the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0023] According to the invention, "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0024] According to the present invention, "fluorinated oil" means an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0025] The oil may be present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In the remainder of this specification, the oil content indicated as non-volatile oil or volatile oil also takes into account the oil content present in the source material as a solvent for dispersing compounds, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, and pigments.

[0026] non-volatile oil Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, vegetable-derived hydrocarbon oils, synthetic C 10 -C 40 Ether, Synthetic C 10 -C 40 Estelle, C 12 -C 26 Fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids and mixtures thereof are included.

[0027] Non-volatile silicone oils include, in particular, phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Phenylated Silicone Oil The composition of the present invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. According to the present invention, "phenylated silicone oil" is understood to mean an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group.

[0029] The composition of the present invention comprises a compound represented by formula (I) [ka] wherein R independently represents methyl or phenyl, and at least three, and in practice at least four, and in practice at least five, of the R independently represent phenyl. The silicone oil further comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil represented by the formula:

[0030] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a compound of formula (II) [ka] [In the formula, Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl] and phenylated silicone oils, also known as trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.

[0031] Such phenylated silicones are in particular manufactured by Dow Corning under the product code PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 cosmetic raw material (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane, INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane). Dow Corning cosmetic raw material under the product code 554 may also be used. According to a preferred embodiment, product code PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) is used.

[0032] The silicone oil of formula (I) or (II) according to the present invention is present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Additional phenylated silicone oil Advantageously, the composition of the invention further comprises a second phenylated silicone oil different from the first silicone oil of formula (I) or (II), said second phenylated silicone oil being chosen in particular from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicone.

[0034] The content of the additional phenylated silicone oil may range from 1% to 12% by weight of the composition, in particular from 2% to 8% by weight of the composition.

[0035] Other additional non-volatile oils The compositions of the present invention may further comprise other non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils.

[0036] Additional non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes, at least one C2- 24 It may be a phenylated silicone containing alkyl or alkoxy groups pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxy silicate.

[0037] The total amount of non-volatile oil in the composition of the present invention is generally in the range of 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably in the range of 10% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Volatile oils According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention further comprise one or more volatile oils, preferably in a total content ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The high level of volatile phases, especially volatile oils, allows for a light composition that is easy to apply to the skin; the volatile oils help to set up a film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, leave behind a film that adheres to the skin with a bare skin feeling, without having a material or mask effect on the skin.

[0040] The volatile phase of the composition, comprising in particular water, C1-C5 monoalcohol and volatile oil, is advantageously present in an amount ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, in particular from 40% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 45% to 55% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0041] As a volatile hydrocarbon oil, branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, branched C8-C 16 esters and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The volatile oils used in the compositions of the present invention are preferably volatile silicones or branched-chain saturated hydrocarbons.

[0044] The volatile oil may be selected in particular from silicone oils, such as dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane), alkyltrisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones, having a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsiloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyltrimethicone), decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one volatile silicone oil chosen from dimethicone, methyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof, having a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt.

[0046] The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be iso-hexyl neopentanoate or a hydrocarbon such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) or a mixture thereof.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least isododecane.

[0048] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least two volatile silicone oils (5 cSt dimethicone and methyl trimethicone) and a volatile hydrocarbon oil (isododecane).

[0049] The content of the volatile silicone oil in the composition of the present invention is generally in the range of 10% to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably in the range of 15% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The content of the volatile hydrocarbon oil in the composition of the present invention may be in the range of 2% by weight to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range of 5% by weight to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0051] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a weight ratio of volatile oil to non-volatile oil in the range of 1 to 3, preferably in the range of 1.5 to 2.5.

[0052] Lipid-soluble film-forming polymer The compositions of the present invention further comprise a lipid-soluble film-forming polymer.

[0053] "Film-forming polymer" means a polymer that can form a continuous film on a support. In this context, the term "polymer" refers to a homopolymer or a copolymer. "Copolymer" means a polymer that contains at least two different monomers or blocks that belong to the same chemical family but may have different structures. Lipid-soluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer that is solubilized in a liquid fatty phase, such as the phenylated silicone oil of the present invention.

[0054] The film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin and is advantageously -trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylalkylsiloxysilicates, in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, silicone acrylate polymers, such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-545), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyltrimethicone (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-549 and KP-579), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-550); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as, for example, Dow Corning® FA-4003 DM), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, Dow Corning® FA-4004 ID); - polyalkylsilsesquioxanes containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably polymethylsilsesquioxanes (such as, for example, Silform® flexible resins from Momentive), trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan (such as, for example, TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu), copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) with alkenes containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene copolymers, VP / hexadecene copolymers, VP / styrene copolymers, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl esters, preferably fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl acetate / octadecene, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, fat-soluble copolymers of vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, Fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl propionate / acetyl vinyl ether, fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, fat-soluble copolymer of allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, fat-soluble copolymer of vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, fat-soluble copolymer of allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins, preferably alkene polymers or copolymers containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutene, polyisobutene and polydecene, alkylcelluloses, preferably alkylcelluloses having an alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, and - mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferably, the lipid-soluble film-forming polymer is -trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylalkylsiloxysilicates, in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate; silicone acrylate polymers, such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-545), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyltrimethicone (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-549 and KP-579), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu KP-550); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as, for example, Dow Corning® FA-4003 DM), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, Dow Corning® FA-4004 ID); polyalkylsilsesquioxanes containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably polymethylsilsesquioxanes (such as, for example, Momentive's Silform® flexible resins); trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan (such as, for example, TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu), and mixtures thereof.

[0056] More preferably, the lipophilic film-forming polymer b) is selected from trimethylsiloxysilicates, silicone acrylate polymers and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one silicone acrylate polymer chosen in particular from acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as, for example, Shin-Etsu's KP-549 and KP-579).

[0057] The lipophilic film-forming polymer b) is present in a content ranging from 1% to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, the percentage of lipophilic film-forming polymer b) being expressed as the weight % of dry extract (active substance, am) based on the total weight of the composition.

[0058] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention is generally present in an amount of from 1% to 80% by weight, in particular from 20% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0059] The aqueous phase comprises water and may optionally comprise a water-soluble solvent.

[0060] According to the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (more than 50% by weight miscibility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; -C2-C 32 Polyols, such as glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C 32 At least one water-soluble solvent selected from polyols and mixtures thereof is preferably contained in a content ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, in particular from 15% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least ethanol, preferably in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, to provide a freshening effect.

[0063] The composition advantageously further comprises at least a polyol and / or glycol in a total content ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect ("glowy" effect) that promotes a radiant skin tone without the oily effect.

[0064] Water-soluble film-forming polymers The compositions of the present invention comprise a water-soluble film-forming polymer. The water-soluble film-forming polymer can be dissolved in the aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase of the composition of the present invention. In particular, "soluble" means that the polymer can be dissolved in an alcoholic or aqueous solvent at room temperature, generally at a concentration of less than or equal to 80% by weight. According to an embodiment, the water-soluble film-forming polymer according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] In particular, the water-soluble film-forming polymer c) according to the invention is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0066] The homopolymer includes polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) of various molecular weights, and the weight-average molecular weight of the homopolymer is measured by light diffraction. More specifically, the polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone having a weight-average molecular weight in the range of 2,000 to 3,000,000 daltons, more specifically, from polyvinylpyrrolidone having a weight-average molecular weight in the range of 30,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, and preferably from polyvinylpyrrolidone having a weight-average molecular weight in the range of 40,000 to 1,500,000 daltons.

[0067] In another embodiment of the present invention, any kind of water-soluble vinylpyrrolidone copolymer can be used, where "copolymer" refers to both a polymer obtained by polymerizing vinylpyrrolidone with one type of monomer and a polymer obtained by polymerizing vinylpyrrolidone with multiple types of monomers, for example, a terpolymer can be obtained by using two types of monomers.

[0068] Among the water-soluble copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, the following are advantageous: copolymers comprising at least vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate monomers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (PVP / VA) copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / itaconic acid copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate copolymers, -Polyvinylpyrrolidone / (meth)acrylic acid / C8-C 20 Alkyl methacrylate copolymers, especially lauryl, are mentioned.

[0069] By way of example, polyvinylpyrrolidone according to the invention is available from the company SIP under the trade name PVP-K or PVPA, such as PVP K 30L® or PVP K 90®.

[0070] Examples of suitable vinyl acetate copolymers are those sold by Ashland Specialty Chemical under the brand names PVP / VA 6-630 (International Specialty Products) or PVP-VA S-630 (INCI name: vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer or VP / VA copolymer, chemical name: poly(vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate)). TM S-630 VP / VA copolymer is a linear copolymer of N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone (PVP) and vinyl acetate in a 60:40 ratio.

[0071] The water-soluble film-forming polymer c), in particular chosen from vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (PVP / VA) copolymers, is especially present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, the percentage of water-soluble film-forming polymer c) being expressed as the weight % of dry extract (active substance, am) based on the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Filler The composition of the present invention further comprises at least one filler, preferably a soft-focus effect filler.

[0073] In the context of the present invention, "fillers" are understood to mean colorless or white particles of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, dispersed in insoluble form in the medium of the composition. The fillers according to the invention may be surface-coated or uncoated, and may in particular be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorine-based derivatives or other substances that promote the dispersion and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

[0074] Fillers are especially selected from silica, mica, kaolin, zinc oxide and titanium oxide of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (e.g. nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxide; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch (crosslinked or not), and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one filler for soft focus effect. In the sense of the present invention, "soft focus effect" means an effect that makes it possible to conceal the microrelief of the skin and thereby reduce relief and / or color defects such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores and pimples by means of an optical correction effect.

[0076] In the remainder of this specification, the terms "soft focus effect filler" or "soft focus filler" are used interchangeably.

[0077] The "soft focus effect filler" according to the present invention is preferably a filler selected from the group consisting of cellulose powder, cellulose beads; microcrystalline cellulose powder; silica and silicate powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads; silica / TiO2 composite powder; talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powder; polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder; boron nitride powder; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder, which may optionally be coated with a silicone resin; hydrophobic silica aerogel powder; nylon powder; starch powder; powders of plant origin, such as rice powder, cotton powder, silk powder; and mixtures thereof.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one soft-focus filler selected from the group consisting of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes optionally coated with silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. Examples of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder include powders with the INCI designation "methyl methacrylate crosspolymer," such as Sunjin's SUNPMMA-X or Daito Kasei's MAKIBEADS 150.

[0079] Examples of silicone resin-coated crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders include the silsesquioxane resin-coated crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders described in the examples of U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793. Such elastomeric powders are commercially available from SHIN ETSU Co., Ltd. under the names KSP-100 (registered trademark), KSP-101 (registered trademark), KSP-102 (registered trademark), KSP-103 (registered trademark), KSP-104 (registered trademark), and KSP-105 (registered trademark).

[0080] The composition according to the present invention comprises a filler in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range of 1% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0081] coloring agent The composition according to the invention comprises at least one or more colorants which may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble colorants, fat-soluble or fat-insoluble colorants, organic or inorganic colorants, optical effect materials and mixtures thereof.

[0082] In the context of the present invention, "colorant" means a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the colorants are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), dyes, nacreous or pearlescent pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Preferably, the colorant is a pigment.

[0085] Pigments are to be understood as white or colored inorganic (mineral) or organic particles which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase in which they are dispersed and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposits produced with the composition.

[0086] Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), which may optionally be surface-treated, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, chromium oxide hydrate, ferric blue, etc.

[0087] Examples of organic pigments include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black, and cochineal carmine-based lacquer.

[0088] Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, and cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470).

[0089] Lipid-soluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto.

[0090] The nacreous or pearlescent pigments may be selected in particular from white nacreous pigments, such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, and colored nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the above-mentioned type, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Commercially available nacreous pigments include Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncristal®.

[0091] Advantageously, the colorant, especially the pigment, is surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treating substance to enhance its dispersibility in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treating substance is selected from the group consisting of silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, fluorosilicone surfactants, metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, diisostearyl sebacate, natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] In particular, the colorant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a pigment, in particular a mineral pigment, in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0094] GALENICAL FORM The compositions of the invention are preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, and are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water, water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a water-in-silicone emulsion.

[0095] The composition of the present invention may be, for example, a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher, etc. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, especially a foundation.

[0096] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, film-forming polymers, fragrances, cosmetic active agents such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, whitening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Makeup method The present invention also relates to a cosmetic make-up method for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, preferably for the skin of the face and / or neck, which method comprises applying to said keratinous materials at least one cosmetic composition as defined above in the present invention.

[0098] In particular, the method is intended to give the skin an ideal long-lasting effect on the skin and to give a natural glow to the skin tone.

[0099] The invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples, in which percentages are by weight based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. [Example]

[0100] Example 1: Selection of Phenylated Silicone Oils of the Invention Different gloss oils were tested in a composition of the invention in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, in which the aqueous phase contains a water-soluble film-forming polymer (VP / VA copolymer), the oil phase contains a silicone oil and a lipophilic film-forming polymer (acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), and the pigments (titanium dioxide and iron oxide) are hydrophobically treated.

[0101] The composition is prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol: - In the main beaker, mix phases A1, A2 and A3 with stirring (Ultra-Turrax); - In a second beaker, phase B1 is stirred with a Rayneri to obtain a homogeneous phase; then phase B2 is introduced with Rayneri stirring to homogenize the mixture of phases B1 and B2; then, just before emulsification, phase B3 is added to this mixture with Rayneri stirring; - Emulsify phase B into phase A for 15 minutes, gradually increasing the speed to 900 rpm with Rayneri.

[0102] The compositions are then evaluated after application to the skin for their "non-sticky" effect and "glow effect", otherwise known as "healthy glow or natural radiance effect". [Table 1]

[0103] As a result, the phenylated silicone oils of formula (I) according to the present invention, in particular trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, exhibit the best results in the compositions of the present invention in terms of deposit shine (gloss effect, radiant skin color) without stickiness compared to the other oils tested, in particular other silicone oils or resins containing phenyl groups.

[0104] The composition according to the invention (Test 1) is also evaluated for wear over time, particularly wear over 24 hours, under alternating heat / humidity conditions according to the following protocol: - At T0, the composition is applied to the face and at T0, a photograph of the face is taken; Subjects were then subjected to 10 minutes of alternating heat (mean temperature 25.8°C) / humidity (mean humidity 69%) conditions every 2 hours (T2h, T4h, T6h, T8h and T10h) until T10h, with a facial photograph taken at T12h and another facial photograph taken at T24h; -Compare photos taken at T0, T12h and T24h.

[0105] As a result, the composition of the present invention met expectations by providing makeup effects that lasted for 24 hours.

[0106] Example 2: Formulation Examples The following formulation examples are non-limiting illustrations of the present invention: The compositions are prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1. [Table 2]

[0107] This water-in-silicone emulsion foundation is prepared as described in Example 1. When applied to facial skin, the presence of this phenylated silicone oil and moisturizer (glycol) provides long-lasting (24 hours) makeup with ideal skin effect, natural skin feel, and a natural radiant skin color. [Table 3]

[0108] A water-in-silicone emulsion foundation is prepared as described in Example 1. When applied to facial skin, it provides long-lasting (24 hours) makeup with a skin-perfecting effect, a natural skin feel, and a natural, radiant skin tone. Furthermore, the present invention includes the following aspects. 1. A cosmetic makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, in the form of an emulsion, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least a) Formula (I) [ka] wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, and at least three, and in practice at least four, and in practice at least five, of the R groups are phenyl. Phenylated silicone oil represented by b) a lipophilic film-forming polymer, preferably a silicone film-forming polymer; c) a water-soluble film-forming polymer selected from homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, and d) A composition comprising a colorant, preferably a pigment. 2. The cosmetic composition according to item 1, further comprising one or more volatile oils, preferably in a total content ranging from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a total content ranging from 15% by weight to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 3. The phenylated silicone oil is represented by the formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl] Item 3. The cosmetic composition according to item 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound is represented by the formula: and is also known as trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane. 4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 3, wherein the phenylated silicone oil represented by formula (I) or formula (II) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 12% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 4, further comprising a second phenylated silicone oil different from the first silicone oil of formula (I) or (II), specifically an oil selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof, preferably phenyl trimethicone. 6. Item 6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Items 1 to 5, wherein the fat-soluble film-forming polymer b) is selected from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylalkylsiloxysilicate whose alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, silicone acrylate polymer, polyalkylsilsesquioxane whose alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan whose alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, copolymers of vinyl esters, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins, alkylcelluloses, polyvinyl alcohols, and mixtures thereof; particularly, the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylalkylsiloxysilicate whose alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, silicone acrylate polymer, polyalkylsilsesquioxane whose alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan whose alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, silicone acrylate polymer, and mixtures thereof. 7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 6, wherein the fat-soluble film-forming polymer b) is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 8. The water-soluble film-forming polymer c) is a polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymer, a copolymer containing at least vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate monomers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (PVP / VA), polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / itaconic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone / (meth)acrylic acid / C8-C 20 Item 8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of alkyl methacrylate copolymers, particularly lauryl, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (PVP / VA) copolymers. 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 8, wherein the water-soluble film-forming polymer c) is present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 10. Preferably, the total content of C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C 32 Item 10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 9, comprising at least one water-soluble solvent selected from polyols and mixtures thereof. 11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 10, further comprising at least one filler, preferably a filler with a soft focus effect. 12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 11, which is a water-in-oil emulsion, particularly a water-in-silicone emulsion. 13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 12, characterized in that it is a facial makeup composition, particularly a foundation. 14. A cosmetic make-up method for keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, which comprises applying to said keratinous materials at least one cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs 1 to 13. 15. The method according to item 14, for providing the skin with ideal effects and a natural glow for a long period of time.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for keratinous materials in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a) a content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl] Phenylated silicone oil, also known as trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, b) a lipophilic silicone film-forming polymer selected from acrylates / dimethicone copolymer and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer in a content ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; c) a water-soluble film-forming polymer selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (PVP / VA) copolymers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and d) a coloring agent.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratinous material is skin.

3. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the liposoluble silicone film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylates / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane.

4. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the colorant is a pigment.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it further comprises one or more volatile oils.

6. 6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the volatile oils have a total content ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a second phenylated silicone oil different from the first silicone oil of formula (II), selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof.

8. C 1 -C 5 Lower monoalcohols, C 2 -C 8 Glycol, C 2 -C 32 Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from polyols and mixtures thereof.

9. C in a total content ranging from 10% by weight to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition 1 -C 5 Lower monoalcohols, C 2 -C 8 Glycol, C 2 -C 32 9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, further comprising at least one water-soluble solvent selected from polyols and mixtures thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one filler.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a water-in-oil emulsion.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a facial makeup composition.

13. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. 14. The method according to claim 13, for providing the skin with ideal long-lasting effects and a natural glow.

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