Hair conditioning composition for improving pigmentation

A composition with a branched cationic surfactant and structuring agent improves silicone deposition on bleached hair, addressing the retention issue and enhancing conditioning benefits.

JP7851933B2Active Publication Date: 2026-04-27UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
Filing Date
2021-12-01
Publication Date
2026-04-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatment compositions fail to effectively deposit beneficial agents, particularly silicones, on bleached hair, resulting in insufficient conditioning benefits due to poor retention.

Method used

A composition comprising a branched cationic surfactant, a linear fatty substance, and a structuring agent, formulated with a specific molar ratio, enhances the deposition of particulate beneficial agents like silicones on bleached hair.

Benefits of technology

Significantly increases the deposition of silicones on bleached hair, maintaining or improving deposition levels compared to virgin hair, thereby enhancing conditioning benefits.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

(i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of a branched cationic surfactant selected from the following Structure 1: R1 and R2 are C4 to C 20 R3 contains either a proton or a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1 to C5; n has a range of 0 to 10; X G is an organic or inorganic anion; (ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a linear fatty material having at least one linear carbon-carbon chain selected from linear fatty alcohols, linear alkoxylated fatty alcohols, linear fatty acids and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a nonionic structuring agent; and (iv) a particulate benefit agent selected from conditioning actives, wherein the molar ratio of branched cationic surfactant (i) to linear fatty material (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1. [Formula 1] TIFF2024500809000008.tif23168
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a conditioning composition for treating bleached hair, comprising a branched cationic surfactant in combination with a fatty alcohol and a structuring agent, and comprising a beneficial agent that is deposited on the hair upon use, and more particularly to a conditioning composition that can increase the amount of beneficial agent deposited on bleached hair. [Background technology]

[0002] In personal care compositions such as hair treatment compositions, the deposition and delivery of beneficial agents are often the driving force behind product performance. For example, many hair conditioner products on the market today work to benefit hair by depositing beneficial agents such as fragrances, silicones, and damage-repairing active ingredients onto the hair during the cleansing and care processes.

[0003] However, consumers have reported being disappointed with the level of benefits they derive from using some compositions. This is usually due to insufficient amounts of beneficial agents delivered to the surface. Therefore, it is desirable to develop compositions that provide improved delivery of beneficial substances to surfaces, such as hair.

[0004] It is known that bleached hair exhibits particularly poor silicone retention during and after application, resulting in lower deposition levels and insufficient benefits to the user. Consequently, users may need to apply more product and may never reach the desired level of conditioning. In fact, the inventors have found that the measured level of silicone delivered to bleached hair can be 20% lower than the level achieved with the same product when used on virgin hair.

[0005] In hair treatment compositions, various branched cationic compounds are known to provide diverse benefits.

[0006] WO17 / 1721171 discloses a composition for treating a keratin substrate, comprising a cationic agent containing a specified quaternary ammonium compound and an imidazoline compound, modified starch, two silicon compounds, a cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer, and water. It is claimed that hair treated with this composition has improved bulk, body, and volume, is easy to rinse, dries quickly, stays clean for a long time, and is well-conditioned. US2005 / 175569 discloses a cosmetic composition for, for example, hair conditioning and styling, comprising a cationic surfactant which may be a quaternary ammonium salt.

[0007] JP2005-060271 discloses an aqueous hair cosmetic composition that may contain (A) a dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (1), (B) a dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (2), (C) a cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (3) with a ratio of [(B) + (C)] / (A) of 1 or more, and (D) an additional quaternary ammonium component. This composition is said to provide a range of conditioning effects to the hair during the wetting, rinsing, and drying stages.

[0008] The present inventors' own published patent applications WO02 / 102334 and WO01 / 43718 provide an aqueous hair treatment composition having cleansing and conditioning properties, comprising a cationic surfactant based on a quaternary ammonium having a specified hydrocarbyl chain.

[0009] WO2020 / 126377A1 (UNILEVER) discloses compositions for improving the deposition of beneficial agents on hair. One example disclosed is a composition comprising (i) behentrimonium chloride, (ii) cetearyl alcohol, (iii) emulsifying silicone, and (iv) N,N,N-trimethyl-2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate.

[0010] WO2020 / 061658A1 (L’OREAL) discloses a composition for providing styling effects such as anti-frizz properties, volume control, and conditioning to hair. The hair treatment composition comprises the following: (a) a cationic surfactant that is an esterquat; (b) a cationic surfactant that is not an esterquat; (c) a silicone oil; (d) a fatty alcohol; (e) water; and (f) optionally, one or more of (i) a nonionic polymer, (ii) a cationic polymer, and (iii) an aminosilicone.

[0011] WO99 / 62492A1 (PROCTER & GAMBLE) discloses a conditioning composition comprising (1) at least 3% of a compound having a melting point of at least 25 °C; (2) an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of amines, betaines, nonionic compounds, and mixtures thereof; (3) a quaternary compound; and (4) an aqueous carrier, and the composition exhibits a DSC profile having substantially no peak exceeding about 3 mJ / mg from about 40 °C to 65 °C.

[0012] GB2316615A (R & C PRODUCTS PTY LTD) discloses a composition for improving the conditioning effect, comprising i) 0.1 - 10% of a C18 - C22 alkyl quaternary ammonium, such as behentrimonium chloride, ii) 0.1 - 10% of a C12 - C22 dialkyl quaternary ammonium, such as dicetyldimonium chloride, iii) 0.01 - 5% of a non-volatile polyalkyl silicone, such as dimethyl silicone, iv) 0.01 - 5% of a non-volatile polyalkyl hydroxy-terminated silicone, such as dimethiconol, v) 0.01 - 5% of an emulsifying cationic amino-functional silicone, such as amodimethicone, vi) 0.1 - 10% of a long-chain fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol, and vii) the balance water.

[0013] US5374421A (TASHIRO KAZUHIRO) discloses a hair treatment composition containing (a) a modified silicone polymer having at least one alkoxy group of 0.1 to 10% by weight and a melting point of 30°C or higher, (b) a cationic surfactant of 0.1 to 20% by weight, (c) an oily or fatty substance of 0.1 to 30% by weight, (d) an organic liquid that is compatible with 0.1 to 90% by weight of water and has at least one hydroxy group, and (e) water.

[0014] WO2020 / 126659A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses a composition for improving the deposition of beneficial agents onto hair, containing (i) a linear cationic conditioning surfactant of 0.01 to 10% by weight; (ii) a linear fatty substance of 0.1 to 10% by weight; (iii) a particulate beneficial agent; (iv) a 100% active branched cationic co-surfactant defined by structure (1) of 0.01 to 5% by weight, wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic surfactant (i) is within the range of 1: twenty to 1:1; and the composition has a viscosity of 5,000 to 750,000 cp.

[0015] WO2020 / 127542A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses a composition containing a) a conditioning base containing (i) a cationic conditioning surfactant having 16 to 32 carbon atoms and (ii) a fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms; b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a conditioning silicone; (c) a diester quat selected from a diester quat containing a branched saturated chain, a diester quat containing an unbranched unsaturated chain, and mixtures thereof, of 0.1 to 5% by weight, wherein the ratio of b) to c) is 1:1 to 1:0.1, and the composition provides improved deposition of silicone onto the hair surface.

[0016] WO2020 / 126660A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses that a composition comprising (i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of a linear cationic conditioning surfactant; (ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a linear fatty substance; (iii) a particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning activators, scalp activators, encapsulated fragrances, emulsified fragrances, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) a branched cationic co-surfactant selected from structure 1, structure 2, structure 3, and mixtures thereof at 100% activity, wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic surfactant (i) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1 results in improved deposition of particulate beneficial agents on hair. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0017] [Patent Document 1] WO17 / 172117 [Patent Document 2] US2005 / 175569 [Patent Document 3] JP2005-060271 [Patent Document 4] WO02 / 102334 [Patent Document 5] WO01 / 43718 [Patent Document 6] WO2020 / 126377A1 [Patent Document 7] WO2020 / 061658A1 [Patent Document 8] WO99 / 62492A1 [Patent Document 9] GB2316615A [Patent Document 10] US5374421A [Patent Document 11] WO2020 / 126659A1 [Patent Document 12] WO2020 / 127542A1 [Patent Document 13] WO2020 / 126660A1 [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0018] While branching compounds are known in home care and personal care products, they have not been effectively applied to improve the deposition of beneficial agents on bleached hair.

[0019] Despite conventional technologies, there is still a need to deliver improved results for bleached hair.

[0020] To our surprise, the inventors found that compositions comprising a predetermined combination of branched surfactants in combination with a structuring agent and a fatty substance unexpectedly and significantly accelerated the deposition of conditioning beneficial agents (e.g., silicones) onto bleached hair.

[0021] All percentages cited herein are weight-based, based on gross weight, unless otherwise noted. [Means for solving the problem]

[0022] therefore,

[0023] (i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of a branched cationic conditioning surfactant selected from Structure 1:

[0024] [ka]

[0025] [In the formula, R1 and R2 are C4~C 20 Preferably C6~C 18 It comprises a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; R3 comprises either a proton or a saturated, unsaturated, or branched alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C5; preferably C1-C3. n has a range of 0 to 10, preferably selected from 0 and 1; ·X - It is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0026] (ii) A linear fatty substance having at least one linear carbon-carbon chain, selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight; (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a structuring agent; and (iv) Particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning activators A composition comprising,

[0027] A composition is provided in which the molar ratio of a branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) to a linear fatty substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0028] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for increasing the deposition of a particulate beneficial agent, preferably selected from silicone emulsions, onto bleached hair, comprising the step of applying the composition of the first aspect to bleached hair, compared to a similar composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to Structure 1, and compared to a composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) and a linear fatty substance (ii) in a molar ratio preferably in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0029] The method of the present invention preferably includes an additional step of rinsing the composition from bleached hair.

[0030] Preferably, the method is a method for increasing silicone deposition on bleached hair, comprising the steps of applying the composition defined by the first aspect of the present invention to hair and rinsing the hair with water, compared to a similar composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to Structure 1, and preferably a composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) and a linear fatty substance (ii) in a molar ratio in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0031] A third aspect provides the use of the composition of the first aspect for delivering an increased amount of conditioning activator, preferably selected from silicones, to bleached hair compared to a composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to Structure 1, preferably in a molar ratio in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2, that containing a branched cationic conditioning surfactant.

[0032] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably formulated as conditioners for hair treatment (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0033] Preferably, the treatment composition is selected from rinse-off hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-on conditioner compositions, and pre-treatment compositions; more preferably, it is selected from rinse-off hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-on conditioner compositions, and pre-treatment compositions, such as oil treatments; and most preferably, it is selected from rinse-off hair conditioners, hair masks, and leave-on conditioner compositions. The treatment composition is preferably selected from rinse-off hair conditioners and leave-on conditioners.

[0034] The rinse-off conditioner used in this invention is typically a conditioner that is left on wet hair for 1 to 2 minutes before rinsing.

[0035] The hair mask used in this invention is typically a treatment that is left on the hair for 3 to 10 minutes, preferably 3 to 5 minutes, and more preferably 4 to 5 minutes, before rinsing.

[0036] The leave-on conditioner used in this invention is typically applied to the hair, left on for 10 minutes or more, preferably applied to the hair after washing, and not rinsed off until the next wash.

[0037] Branched cationic conditioning surfactant

[0038] The branched cationic conditioning surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight (based on the total composition weight at 100% activity).

[0039] The molar ratio of the branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) to the linear fatty substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0040] The branched cationic conditioning surfactant contains an ester group and is selected from the following structure 1.

[0041] [ka]

[0042] During the ceremony, R1 and R2 are C4~C 20 Preferably C6~C 18 It comprises a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; ·R3 contains either a proton or a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C5; preferably C1-C3; ·n has a range of 0-10, preferably selected from 0 and 1; ·X - is an organic or inorganic anion;

[0043] The molar ratio of the branched cationic surfactant (i) to the linear fatty substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 - 1:1, preferably 1:10 - 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 - 1:2.

[0044] In Structure 1, the amine head group is charged within the final formulation However, the raw materials contain species whose charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid.

[0045] Optionally, at least one of R1 and R2 contains a linkage within an alkyl chain selected from the group consisting of an ester group (-OCO- or -COO-), an amide group (-NOC- or NCO-), and an ether group (-O-).

[0046] X - is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X - is a halide ion; a sulfate of the general formula RSO3 - (wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1-4 carbon atoms), and an anion selected from anionic groups of organic acids.

[0047] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride, chloride, bromide, and iodide. Preferred anionic groups of organic acids are selected from maleic acid group, fumaric acid group, oxalic acid group, tartaric acid group, citric acid group, lactic acid group, and acetic acid group. Preferred sulfate groups are methanesulfonic acid group and ethanesulfonic acid group.

[0048] Most preferably, X -This includes an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group, and an ethanesulfonate group.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are C4~C 20 Preferably C6~C 18 It comprises a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; R3 comprises either a proton or a saturated, unsaturated, or branched alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C5; preferably C1-C3. n has a range of 0 to 10, preferably selected from 0 and 1; ·X - These are organic or inorganic anions.

[0050] Suitable methods for producing branched cationic surfactants are known in the art and are described, for example, in Chemistry, A European Journal, 2008, 14, 382. For example, 2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate can be synthesized by an acid-catalyzed condensation reaction of glycine with a specific Guerbet alcohol, yielding the desired product in one step.

[0051] Examples of suitable materials matching Structure 1 are 2-((2-butyloctyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-hexyldecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-decyltetradecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-dodecylhexadecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate, and 2-((2-tetradecyloctadecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-aminium methanesulfonate. Alternatively, a chloride counterion may be used instead of the methanesulfonate ion in the above example.

[0052] fatty substances

[0053] The composition of the present invention contains 0.1 to 10% by weight of linear fatty substances.

[0054] The combined use of fatty substances and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is considered particularly advantageous because it leads to the formation of a structured lamellar phase or liquid crystal phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0055] Lipids contain carbon-carbon chains. The term "linear" means that the carbon-carbon chain is linear in nature (i.e., unbranched). "Linear lipolipids" have only linear carbon-carbon chains. These linear chains may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0056] "Linear fatty substances" are selected from linear fatty alcohols, linear alkoxylated fatty alcohols, linear fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the linear fatty substances are selected from linear fatty alcohols, linear fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, and most preferably linear fatty alcohols.

[0057] Preferably, the alkyl chain of the fatty substance is fully saturated. Typical fatty substances contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0058] Preferred fatty alcohols are those containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, most preferably C16 to C18. Typical fatty alcohols are compounds containing a linear alkyl group. Preferably, the alkyl group is saturated. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous because they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the compositions used in this invention.

[0059] Alkoxylated (e.g., ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of or in addition to the fatty alcohol itself. Preferred examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene(2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene(4) cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The level of fatty substances in the conditioner of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total composition, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.

[0061] Structuring agent

[0062] The composition of the present invention contains a structuring agent.

[0063] The structuring agent is nonionic.

[0064] The nonionic structuring agent is preferably selected from unmodified structuring agents, hydrophobically modified structuring agents, and mixtures thereof, and most preferably unmodified.

[0065] Cationic structuring agents such as phosphorylated starch are unsuitable because their positive charge competes with silicone and deposits on the hair. Cationic structuring agents can be nonionic in salt form, but they dissociate in solution to form cationic species.

[0066] In the present invention, the nonionic structuring agent does not form cationic species in solution.

[0067] Preferably, the structuring agent has a molecular weight in the range of 500 kDa to 2 MDa.

[0068] Preferably, the structuring agent is a polysaccharide, and preferably derived from cellulose.

[0069] Examples of suitable structuring agents include, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) (unmodified structuring agent) available from Ashland under the trade name Natrosol (trademark). Another example of a suitable polysaccharide is Structure XL (unmodified starch) available from Nouryon. Another suitable cellulosic structuring agent is Plantasens Biogum Tara available from Clariant.

[0070] Suitable hydrophobically modified structuring agents include both hydroxyethyl groups and long-chain alkyl groups. Examples include hydrophobically modified HECs available as Natrosol Plus 330 or Polysurf® 67 (manufactured by Ashland).

[0071] The most preferred structuring agent is hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0072] Particulate beneficial agent

[0073] The composition of the present invention comprises a particulate beneficial agent. The particulate beneficial agent is selected from conditioning activators. Most preferably, the particulate beneficial agent is a silicone emulsion.

[0074] The total amount of particulate beneficial agent is preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.25% to 3% by weight, and most preferably 0.25% to 1.5% by weight.

[0075] Preferred silicone emulsions do not contain hydrophobic modifications, preferably are not myristyloxyl-modified silicones, and most preferably are neither myristyloxyl-modified nor cetyloxyl-modified silicones. Most preferably, the silicone emulsion for use in the compositions of the present invention is selected from emulsions of dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Suitable emulsifying silicones include polydimethylsiloxane having the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are polydimethylsiloxanes having hydroxyl-terminated groups and the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Preferably, the silicone is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Blends of amino-functionalized silicones and dimethicone are also preferred.

[0077] The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst at 25°C, and the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, and ideally 1,000,000 cst. Preferably, to facilitate formulation, its viscosity is at least 10 9 It will not exceed CST.

[0078] The emulsifying silicone for use in the compositions of the present invention typically has a D90 silicone droplet diameter of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns, and ideally 0.01 to 1 micron. A silicone emulsion having an average silicone droplet diameter (D50) of 0.15 microns is usually referred to as a microemulsion.

[0079] Silicone particle size can be measured using laser light scattering techniques, for example, with a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

[0080] Examples of suitable preform emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and the microemulsion DC2-1865 available from Dow Corning. These are dimethiconol emulsions / microemulsions. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in pre-emulsified forms, which are advantageous in terms of ease of formulation.

[0081] A more preferred type of silicone to be included in the composition of the present invention is an amino-functional silicone. "Amino-functional silicone" means a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of preferred amino-functional silicones include polysiloxanes having the CTFA name "amodimethicone". A preferred amodimethicone is commercially available from Dow Corning as DC7134.

[0082] Specific examples of amino-functional silicones suitable for use in the present invention are aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, and DC2-8566 (all examples from Dow Corning).

[0083] A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is described in EP-A-0530974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474 from Goldschmidt.

[0084] Emulsified solutions of amino-functional silicone oil with nonionic and / or cationic surfactants are also preferred.

[0085] Amino-functional silicone preform emulsions are also available from silicone oil suppliers such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include the DC939 cationic emulsion and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning).

[0086] Any linear cationic conditioning surfactant

[0087] The composition may contain a linear cationic conditioning surfactant that is acceptable as a cosmetic and suitable for topical application to hair.

[0088] Preferably, the linear cationic conditioning surfactant is of formula 1:N + (R 1 )(R2 )(R 3 )(R 4 ) has, in the formula, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 (C1~C 30 ) It is alkyl or benzyl.

[0089] In formula 1, preferably, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 One, two, or three of these can be used independently (C4~C 30 ) is alkyl, and other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 The group or groups are (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl.

[0090] Comfortable, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 One or two of them independently (C6~C 30 ) is alkyl, and other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 The group is a (C1-C6) alkyl group or a benzyl group. Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester links (-OCO- or -COO-), amide links (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether links (-O-) within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and if it has three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group may optionally be ethoxylated on the alkyl chain using one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0091] A quaternary amine salt suitable for use in the conditioner composition according to the present invention is a quaternary amine salt containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in the conditioner composition according to the present invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenylamidopropyldimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, stearalkonium methosulfate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallowdimethylammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75 from Akzo Nobel), and cocotrimethylammonium chloride.

[0093] Preferred quaternary amine salts are selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] A cationic surfactant particularly useful for use in the conditioner according to the present invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available as GENAMIN CTAC from Hoechst Celanese, for example. Another particularly preferred cationic surfactant for use in the conditioner according to the present invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant, for example.

[0095] Further preferred cationic surfactants include materials having the CTFA names quaternium-5, quaternium-31, and quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the aforementioned materials may also be preferred.

[0096] Another example of cationic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention is the following combinations of (i) and (ii), either alone or in combination with one or more other cationic surfactants.

[0097] (i) Amidoamines corresponding to general formula (II):

[0098] [ka]

[0099] In the formula, R 1 R is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms. 2 and R 3 m is independently selected from a hydrocarbyl chain of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to approximately 10. ] and

[0100] (ii) Acid.

[0101] As used herein, the term "hydrocarbyl chain" means an alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain.

[0102] A preferred amidoamine compound corresponds to formula (I),

[0103] R 1 These are hydrocarbyl residues having approximately 11 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0104] R 2 and R 3 Each of these is independently a hydrocarbyl residue, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

[0105] Preferably, R 2and R 3 This is either a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0106] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., an ethylene group or a propylene group.

[0107] Preferred amidoamines useful in this specification include stearamidopropyldimethylamine (TAS), stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl-diethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behemidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidomidopropyldimethylamine, arachidomidopropyldiethylamine, arachidomidoethyldiethylamine, arachidomidoethyldiethylamine, arachidomidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful in this specification are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Useful commercially available amide amines as used herein include stearamidopropyldimethylamine (trade name LEXAMINE S-13) available from Inolex (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA), ANIDOAMINE MSP and ANIDOAMINE S (trade name ANIDOAMINE S) available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), behenamidopropyldimethylamine (trade name INCROMINE BB) available from Croda (North Humberside, UK), and various amide amines in the SCHERCODINE series available from Scher (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

[0110] The acid may be an organic or mineral acid capable of protonating the amidoamine in the conditioner composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] The main role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition, thereby forming the (TAS) tertiary amine salt (stearamidopropyldimethylamine) in the hair treatment composition at In-Sights. Stearamidopropyldimethylamine is effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0112] Preferably, the acid is present in an amount sufficient to protonate more than 95 mol% (293 K) of the present amidoamine.

[0113] In the conditioner used in the present invention, the level of linear cationic conditioning surfactant is generally in the range of 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, and most preferably 0.1 to 5%, based on the total weight of the cationic conditioning surfactant in the composition.

[0114] Further ingredients

[0115] The composition according to the present invention may contain any of the many components common to hair conditioning compositions.

[0116] Other possible ingredients include preservatives, colorants, polyols such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antibacterial agents, and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are present individually at a level of up to approximately 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0117] Preferably, further ingredients include fragrances, preservatives, colorants, and conditioning silicones.

[0118] The compositions of the present invention preferably do not contain viscosity modifiers and thickeners, such as thickening polymers.

[0119] A mixture of any of the above active ingredients can also be used.

[0120] Generally, such components are included individually at a level of up to 2% by weight, preferably up to 1% by weight, of the total composition.

[0121] Embodiments of the present invention are provided in the following examples, but unless otherwise stated, all percentages are expressed on a weight basis based on total weight. [Examples]

[0122] Example 1: Composition 1 and comparative compositions A and B according to the present invention.

[0123] The following compositions were prepared.

[0124] Comparative Example A: Contains a linear alkyl surfactant but does not contain a structuring agent. Comparative Example B: Contains a branched cationic (ester) surfactant according to Structure 1, but does not contain a structuring agent. Example 1: Contains a branched cationic (ester) surfactant and a structuring agent according to Structure 1.

[0125] Table 1: Compositions of Example 1 (according to the present invention) and Comparative Examples A and B

[0126] [Table 1]

[0127] Example 2: Treatment of hair with compositions A, B and 1

[0128] The hair used (virgin) was a 5g, 6-inch long, dark brown European hair implant.

[0129] The virgin hair was bleached by applying Platine Precision White Compact Lightening Powder (L'Oreal Professionnel Paris, Paris, France), which was mixed with 30 volumes of 9% peroxide cream (Excel GS Ltd, UK) (60g of powder mixed with 120g of peroxide cream), and leaving it for 30 minutes. The hair was then rinsed with water for 2 minutes.

[0130] First, virgin or bleached hair was treated with a cleansing shampoo using the following method.

[0131] The hair fibers were held under running water for 30 seconds, and shampoo was applied at a rate of 0.1 ml per gram of hair, and rubbed into the hair for 30 seconds. Excess foam was removed by holding under running water for 30 seconds, and the shampooing step was repeated. The hair was then rinsed under running water for 1 minute.

[0132] Next, wet hair (virgin or bleached) was treated with the composition using the following method.

[0133] The conditioner was applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.2 mL per gram of hair, and massaged into the hair for 1 minute. The hair was then rinsed under running water for 1 minute to remove excess water.

[0134] Example 3: Silicone deposition on bleached hair treated with compositions A, B, and 1, and on virgin hair treated with compositions A and 1.

[0135] Table 2: Amount of silicone deposited in hair treated in Examples A and B (comparative) and Example 1 (according to the present invention)

[0136] [Table 2]

[0137] Comparative Example A is a representative composition of the prior art, containing a linear alkyl surfactant. Comparative Example A deposits 1100 ppm of silicone on virgin hair, but when used on bleached hair, the deposition is only 230 ppm. This illustrates the problem that the present invention solves.

[0138] Comparative Example B falls outside the scope of the present invention and incorporates a branched cationic surfactant but does not contain a structuring agent. As a result, its deposition performance is reduced.

[0139] The composition of the present invention, represented in Example 1, differs from Comparative Examples A and B in that it contains both a branched cationic material and a structured material. A significant increase in the amount of silicone is achieved. Furthermore, deposition on virgin hair is maintained.

Claims

1. (i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of a branched cationic conditioning surfactant selected from Structure 1 below: 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, ・R 1 and R 2 C 4 ~C 20 It comprises a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; ・R 3 is a proton or C 1 ~C 5 It comprises either a saturated, unsaturated, or branched alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; n has a range of 0 to 10. (ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a linear fatty substance having a linear carbon-carbon chain selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of nonionic polysaccharides; and (iv) Particulate beneficial agent selected from silicone emulsions A hair conditioning composition comprising, A hair conditioning composition in which the molar ratio of a branched cationic surfactant (i) to a linear fatty substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:

1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic polysaccharide is hydroxyethylcellulose.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone emulsion is selected from emulsions of dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or claim 3, wherein the silicone emulsion does not contain hydrophobic modification.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the particulate beneficial agent is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.

6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the particulate beneficial agent is present in an amount of 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic surfactant (i) to the linear fatty substance (ii) is in the range of 1:10 to 1:

1.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the branched cationic conditioning surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight.

9. A method for increasing the deposition of particulate beneficial agents selected from silicone emulsions, scalp activators, encapsulated fragrances, emulsified fragrances, and mixtures thereof onto bleached hair, compared to a similar composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to Structure 1, the method comprising the steps of applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 to the hair and washing the hair with water.

10. The use of the composition defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 for delivering an increased amount of particulate beneficial agent selected from a silicone emulsion to bleached hair, compared to a similar composition that does not contain a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to Structure 1.

11. The use according to claim 10, wherein the particulate beneficial agent is a silicone emulsion.

Citation Information

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