Knitted fabric
By using high content of ultrafine two-component fiber A yarn and B yarn with low elastic elongation in knitted fabrics, the shortcomings of existing knitted fabrics in terms of delicate feel, skin feel and elasticity are solved, and better fabric performance and simpler process are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2024/114110
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-08-25
- Filing Date
- 2024-08-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing knitted fabrics have shortcomings in terms of delicate feel, skin feel and resilience, and are complex in technology and high in cost.
A knitted fabric containing at least A yarn and B yarn is used, wherein A yarn is an ultrafine bicomponent fiber with a monofilament fiber with a monofilament fiber of less than 0.20 dtex, the content of A yarn WA is more than 50%, and the elastic elongation EA of A yarn is greater than the elastic elongation EB of B yarn, satisfying the specific relationship between EA/EB.
It improves the elasticity and delicate feel of the fabric, while enhancing the skinnyness of the fabric. The process is relatively simple and the cost is relatively reasonable.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2024114110-FTAPPB-I100001 
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Figure PCTCN2024114110-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
knitted fabrics Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to a knitted fabric. Background Art
[0002] With the continuous improvement of material and cultural levels, people's clothing concepts are becoming more elegant and open, and they have higher requirements for delicate touch, bone feel and elasticity.
[0003] For example, Chinese patent document CN112391721A discloses a raised thermal insulation knitted fabric, which specifically discloses that the knitted fabric includes a front side and a back side, and the back side has a concave-convex structure with a height difference of 100 to 260 μm, and the length of the hair on the back side is 100 to 1500 μm. The dense and fine hair is soft and close to the skin, but it needs to be raised to obtain a delicate feel, and it also has deficiencies in elasticity.
[0004] For example, patent document WO2020 / 048473 discloses a fabric, which specifically discloses that the fabric is composed of at least mixed fiber yarns, the mixed fiber yarns contain multiple ultrafine fibers, the diameters of the multiple ultrafine fibers are less than 7 μm, and the multiple ultrafine fibers contain at least filament A and filament B with a length difference of more than 5%. The mixed fiber yarns have a core-sheath structure, the sheath yarn is the aforementioned ultrafine fiber, and the core yarn is a high-shrinkage polyester fiber or a high-shrinkage polyamide fiber. The fabric feels more fluffy, soft and delicate, and has a certain waist bone and rebound feel. However, since the mixed fiber yarns used are obtained by controlling the length difference to obtain the core-sheath structure, the process is relatively complicated.
[0005] For another example, Chinese patent document CN103437047B discloses a method for preparing weft-knitted jacquard suede fabric, which specifically discloses selecting high-shrinkage yarn and ultrafine fiber as raw materials, jacquard weaving them into knitted fabrics, wherein the pattern part is mainly made of high-shrinkage yarn and ultrafine fiber, and the other parts are mainly made of high-shrinkage yarn, and post-finishing processing including fiber opening and raising is performed. The processing flow is short and the pattern effect is clear, but the jacquard process is relatively complicated and the cost is high, and the jacquard pattern area is prone to snagging. In addition, due to the inconsistent elasticity between the pattern part and other parts, some areas of the fabric are prone to recovery wrinkles and insufficient resilience during stretching.
[0006] For example, Japanese patent document Tokukai 2019-157321 discloses an elastic fabric, and specifically discloses that the elastic fabric contains less than 80% by weight of three-dimensional crimped yarn composed of two polyester resins with different shrinkage properties in a parallel manner. The fabric has high elasticity, excellent fullness and high tensile strength, but because the fineness of the ultrafine fiber monofilament used is between 0.5 and 4 dtex, the softness and delicateness of the fabric needs to be further improved.
[0007] Summary of the Invention
[0008] In view of the shortcomings of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric with a simple production process, a delicate hand feel, a bony feel and excellent resilience.
[0009] The technical solutions of the present invention are as follows:
[0010] The knitted fabric of the present invention comprises at least A yarn and B yarn, wherein the A yarn is an ultrafine bicomponent fiber with a single yarn fineness of less than 0.20 dtex, and the content of the A yarn on at least one side of the surface where the A yarn is located is W A Above 50%, and the elastic elongation E of yarn A in knitted fabrics A and the elastic elongation E of yarn B B Satisfies the following relationship: 1.0<E A / E B ≤2.0.
[0011] In the present invention, by using the content W A The use of ultra-fine bicomponent fibers with a specific monofilament density of at least 50% as A yarn enhances the fabric's resilience and creates a delicate feel. Furthermore, in addition to the A yarn, the fabric also contains B yarn with a lower elastic elongation, which restrains the A yarn and enhances the fabric's texture. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0012] The knitted fabric of the present invention comprises at least A yarn and B yarn, wherein the A yarn is an ultrafine bicomponent fiber having a significant three-dimensional crimp structure, the single yarn fineness of which is below 0.20 dtex, and the content of the A yarn on at least one side of the surface where the A yarn is located is W A Above 50%, this not only improves the elasticity of the fabric, but also improves the feel of the fabric.
[0013] If the content of A yarn in the surface where A yarn is located is less than 50%, even if the single yarn fineness of A yarn is below 0.20 dtex, the fabric will still feel rough. Under the same total yarn fineness condition, the ultrafine bicomponent fiber used in the present invention has a larger F number (number of single yarns), which can better fill the gaps in the fabric and make the fabric surface more dense and smooth. As a preference, the content of A yarn on at least one side where A yarn is located is W A It is 70-100%.
[0014] In the present invention, yarn A can appear on both sides of the fabric or only on one side. Specifically, when the fabric is formed by yarn A and yarn B, yarn A and yarn B can appear on both sides, yarn A can appear on one side and yarn B can appear on the other side, or yarn A or yarn B can appear on one side and both yarn A and yarn B can appear on the other side. When yarn A appears on both sides, the content of yarn A on one side is W AWhen the surface of yarn A is used as the surface, the single yarn fineness of yarn A is T A It is preferably 0.10 to 0.20 dtex. A If it is less than 0.10dtex, it may affect the strength of the fabric.
[0015] The composition of the ultrafine bicomponent fibers here is not particularly limited, and can be two different fiber-forming polymers or similar fiber-forming polymers with different properties. Examples of these include high-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate (PET / PET), polypropylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PTT / PET), polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PBT / PET), etc. The morphology of the ultrafine bicomponent fibers is also not particularly limited, and examples include sheath-core type, parallel type, and orange segment type. Preferably, the ultrafine bicomponent fibers of the present invention are of a parallel structure. The parallel structure ultrafine bicomponent fibers here can be obtained by direct spinning and used in knitted fabrics; they can also be obtained by weaving sea-island composite fibers into knitted fabrics and then removing the sea component, wherein the sea component is a soluble component such as co-PET.
[0016] Elastic elongation E of yarn A in the knitted fabric of the present invention A Greater than the elastic elongation E of yarn B B , and satisfy the following relationship: 1.0<E A / E B ≤2.0. If E A / E B If it is greater than 2.0, under the same conditions, yarn A will stretch more than yarn B. When yarn A and yarn B are on the same side, they will shrink unevenly, causing problems such as snagging and insufficient resilience. When yarn A and yarn B are not on the same side, the side where yarn A is located will have problems such as poor flatness and rough feel. A / E B If it is less than or equal to 1.0, when yarn A and yarn B are on the same side, the side where yarn A is located feels rougher, and the elasticity of the fabric is also affected; when yarn A and yarn B are not on the same side, the side where yarn A is located also has the problem of rough hand feeling, and the bone feeling of the fabric will be reduced.
[0017] The melting enthalpy of the B yarn is preferably below 40 J / g, more preferably between 20 and 40 J / g. The melting enthalpy here refers to the heat enthalpy of the fiber when it melts. If the melting enthalpy of the B yarn exceeds 40 J / g, while the fiber crystallinity and dimensional stability are high, the yarn's thermal shrinkage is reduced, and the fabric's firmness and delicate feel tend to decrease. Therefore, this is not a preferred option.
[0018] As a preference, the monofilament fineness of the B yarn in the present invention is TB The single yarn fineness T of yarn A A Satisfies the following relationship: T B / T A ≥10.0. Considering that the single yarn fineness of A yarn is relatively low in order to obtain a delicate feel, if T B / T A If the value is less than 10.0, the rigidity of the B yarn may not be enough to improve the texture of the fabric, so it is not a good choice. B / T A If the F number of B yarn is greater than 25.0, the rigidity of B yarn is too large, and the hand feeling of the whole fabric may become hard. If the F number of B yarn is too low, a stinging feeling may occur when wearing, so it is not preferred. B / T A It is 10.0~25.0.
[0019] As a preference, the length L of the yarn A in the present invention is A The length L of yarn B B Satisfy the following relationship: 1.00<L A / L B ≤2.00. When yarn A and yarn B are not on the same side, if L A / L B If ≤1.00, the B yarn will not play a shrinking role, which may affect the delicate feeling of the surface where the A yarn is located, and the overall bone feeling of the fabric will tend to decrease; and if L A / L B If it is >2.00, the fabric will shrink too tightly and the elasticity will tend to decrease. In addition, the long yarn will easily bulge, and the fabric surface may appear uneven, which will affect the delicate style. Therefore, it is not the best choice. When yarn A and yarn B are on the same side, if L A / L B If L is less than 1.00, there may be horizontal stripes on the fabric; if L A / L B If it is greater than 2.00, the shrinkage difference between the yarns on the same side will be relatively large, the delicate feel of the fabric may be affected, and there will be a problem of insufficient elasticity, so it is not preferred.
[0020] In the present invention, the content of A yarn W A On at least 50% of the sides, the yarn length of A is preferably 190-220 mm / 100 stitches. Yarn lengths less than 190 mm / 100 stitches increase knitting difficulty and may cause vertical warp problems in the fabric, so this is not preferred. Yarn lengths greater than 220 mm / 100 stitches tend to deteriorate the hand feel, so this is not preferred.
[0021] In addition to the above-mentioned A yarn and B yarn, other yarns may be used in the fabric of the present invention as needed, such as ordinary PET yarn (ethylene terephthalate), cotton yarn, etc.
[0022] Preferably, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a transverse elastic recovery rate of more than 60%, and a longitudinal elastic recovery rate of more than 80%.
[0023] Preferably, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a drape coefficient of above 8.0% and has an excellent bony feel.
[0024] Preferably, the average dynamic friction coefficient of the surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention where the A yarn is located is below 0.40.
[0025] The present invention is further described below with reference to the following embodiments and comparative examples.
[0026] The test methods for the various parameters involved in the present invention are as follows:
[0027] (1) Sampling
[0028] Qualitative analysis of aA yarn
[0029] Prepare a smooth, wrinkle-free knitted fabric and cut ten 20cm x 20cm pieces from it for use as test specimens. First, determine the complete weave and yarn cycle of one of the test specimens. Then, disassemble the yarn and draw a weave diagram of the fabric. Measure the linear density (N) (dtex) of the disassembled yarn according to the method in GB / T 4743-2009. Finally, take a 5cm section of each disassembled yarn and prepare a paraffin-embedded sample. The specific testing procedure is as follows:
[0030] ① Place two 1cm high L-shaped metal sheets together to form a groove-shaped mold. Position the openings on the two sheets opposite each other, allowing the yarn to be placed vertically on them. Openings should be spaced 1cm apart along the length of the metal sheets, with the openings reaching 2 / 3 of the sheet's height.
[0031] ② Dissolve solid paraffin as an embedding agent until it becomes liquid, and slowly inject it into the metal mold to penetrate into the yarn.
[0032] ③ After the paraffin wax solidifies, separate the L-shaped metal sheet and demould.
[0033] ④ Divide the paraffin strip after demolding so that each yarn to be tested is located in the center of the divided paraffin block. Then heat the paraffin block perpendicular to one side of the yarn and stick it to a small wooden block suitable for the size of the microtome.
[0034] ⑤ With the yarn as the center, trim the paraffin block into a cone shape (four-sided cone), with the end of the yarn away from the wooden block at the top of the cone.
[0035] ⑥ Place the small wooden block on the microtome to perform continuous sectioning on the conical paraffin block.
[0036] ⑦ Transfer the slices to a glass slide and heat them on a heating plate. The ideal heating conditions are to completely dissolve the paraffin wax and expose the yarn. For example, set the heating plate to 90°C and preheat for 5 minutes.
[0037] ⑧ Observe the cross-sectional morphology using a digital microscope (VXH-6000) at 1000x magnification and count the number of filaments (F). Calculate the single-filament fineness (T) of each yarn by N / F. Yarns with a single-filament fineness of 0.20 dtex or less and exhibiting two components in cross section are considered yarn A; the remaining yarns are considered other yarns.
[0038] Qualitative Analysis of bB Yarn
[0039] Take one of the fabric samples and mark a 10cm length along the coil formation direction on the fabric. Sample yarn A and the other yarns separately, and take five sample yarns for use. Then, place the sample yarns in an environment with a temperature of 20℃ and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. Take one yarn A from the sample yarn and calculate the pre-tension G = 0.176*10 according to the yarn fineness N. -3 *N A , hang a weight of equal load, measure the length of yarn A at this time and record it as D1 (cm), then the elastic elongation E A (%) = (D1-10) / 10*100%.
[0040] The elastic elongation of the remaining 4 yarns A was measured in the same way, and the average value of the 5 sets of data was taken as the elastic elongation E of the yarn A of the present invention. A (Keep 1 decimal place after the decimal point).
[0041] Use the same method to measure the elastic elongation E of other yarns 其他 , where E 其他 The elastic elongation value is greater than or equal to 0.5E A and less than 1E A If the yarn is within the range of , it is determined to be yarn B, and its elastic elongation is recorded as E B .
[0042] (2) Content of A yarn on the surface where A yarn is located
[0043] According to the sampling steps (1) above, a complete organization and yarn cycle are determined, and then the number n of loops of the yarn A is determined by disassembling the yarn.
[0044] Calculate the content of A yarn on the surface W according to the following formula: A
[0045] W A =n / m*100%
[0046] Among them, n is the number of loops of yarn A on the surface, and m is the number of all loops on the surface.
[0047] In the same way, measure and calculate the content of A yarn on one side of the other four pieces of sample cloth, and take the average value of 5 times as the content of A yarn on the side where A yarn is located in the present invention. A .
[0048] (3) Ratio of elastic elongation of yarn A to yarn B
[0049] According to the sampling steps (1) above, the elastic elongation E of yarn A and yarn B is measured. A 、E B , and calculate E A / E B The value of 5 times is taken as the elastic elongation ratio E of the present invention. A / E B .
[0050] (4) The ratio of the length of yarn A to that of yarn B
[0051] According to the sampling steps in (1) above, take a fabric sample (size: 20 cm × 20 cm) that has been disassembled and the complete structure and yarn circulation have been determined.
[0052] Mark the starting positions of 100 loops on the fabric, remove at least 10 yarns A and B, straighten yarn A, and record the length L of yarn A. A1 , and measure the length of the remaining 9 A yarns, then L A =(L A1 +L A2 +……L A10 ) / 10, and keep the result as an integer. Use the same method to measure the length L of yarn B. B , find the ratio: L A / L B
[0053] (5) Melting enthalpy
[0054] According to the sampling steps of (1) above, yarn B is distinguished. 3 to 5 mg of yarn B is weighed as one sample on a balance, and a total of 5 samples are weighed, accurate to 0.01 mg. Take one of the samples and use a differential scanning calorimeter (manufacturer: TA, model: DSC2A-01820) to perform DSC testing in accordance with GB / T 40271-2021 standard. The temperature is raised to 280°C at 10°C / min to obtain a DSC curve and measure the melting enthalpy. The result is accurate to 0.1 J / g. The melting enthalpy of the remaining 4 samples is measured in the same way, and the average value is taken as the melting enthalpy of the yarn of the present invention (the result is rounded to an integer).
[0055] (6) Elastic recovery rate
[0056] The test was carried out according to JIS L 1096:2010 D method.
[0057] (7) Overhang coefficient
[0058] Take a cylinder with a diameter of about 5 cm and place it on an A4 paper. Use a camera to shoot it from a fixed height of 20 cm. Then draw the projection outline of the cylinder on the A4 paper. Then use an area meter to read the projection area A of the cylinder. d Cut three circular fabric samples with a diameter of 24 cm and calculate the actual area A0 of the fabric sample. Take one of the samples and place it on a cylinder with a diameter of 5 cm in the form of concentric circles. The rest of the fabric sample hangs naturally along the edge of the cylinder. After shaking the fabric sample and the cylinder up and down three times, place it on an A4 paper for 1 minute. Use a camera to shoot from a height of 20 cm, draw the projection outline of the fabric sample on the A4 paper, and then use a planimeter to read the projection area A of the fabric sample. s , drape coefficient D%=(A s -A d ) / (A0-A d )*100%. The drape coefficients of three sample fabrics were measured and calculated in the same manner, and the average value was taken as the drape coefficient of the present invention.
[0059] (8) Average kinetic friction coefficient
[0060] According to the sampling step (1) above, a 20 cm × 20 cm fabric sample is taken, and one side is marked as side I and the other side as side II (for example, when the content of A yarn on one side is greater than 50% and the content on the other side is less than 50%, the side with the A yarn content greater than 50% is marked as side I and the other side is marked as side II; when the content of A yarn on both sides is greater than 50%, the side with the larger A yarn content is marked as side I and the other side is marked as side II); then, the average friction coefficient is tested according to the KES-FB4 surface property test, the testing equipment is: KES-FB4 surface property equipment (SURFACE TESTER DIVISION KATO TECH CO.LTD KYOTO JAPAN KES-FB4), the average dynamic friction coefficient of its side I is tested, and then the average dynamic friction coefficient of the remaining four sample cloth surfaces I is measured according to the same method, and the average value is taken as the average dynamic friction coefficient of the surface where the A yarn is located in the fabric of the present invention.
[0061] Example 1:
[0062] On a 32G single-jersey circular knitting machine, a plain plating weave was used for knitting. Yarn A was used as the outer yarn, and yarn B as the inner yarn. Yarn A was entirely made of 42dtex / 12f sea-island composite fiber (the sea component was co-PET, and the island component was parallel PBT / PET). Yarn B was entirely made of 33dtex / 12f PET FDY (melting enthalpy of 34J / g). Both yarns were fed simultaneously into the yarn feeder, with the outer yarn covering the inner yarn. The yarn length of yarn A was 220mm / 100 loops, and the yarn length of yarn B was 214mm / 100 loops, resulting in a grey fabric with a density of 33w / inch*67c / inch. Then, the knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained by weight reduction (95°C*35 minutes, liquid caustic soda 20 g / L), pre-shrinkage (130°C*30 minutes), intermediate setting (180°C*60 seconds), dyeing (130°C*30 minutes), and post-finishing setting (Japanese Daikin waterproofing agent XF5003 60 g / L, cross-linking agent RUCOGUARD XCR 20 g / L, 160°C*60 seconds). The details are shown in Table 1.
[0063] Example 2:
[0064] Two types of yarns are selected for the surface yarns, namely surface yarn 1 and surface yarn 2. Surface yarn 1 is yarn A, lining yarn is yarn B, and surface yarn 2 is yarn C. Ten yarns constitute one cycle, wherein yarns 1 to 7 are yarn A, all of which are 42 dtex / 12f sea-island composite fibers (the sea component is co-PET and the island component is PBT / PET), and yarns 8 to 10 are yarn C, which are 30 dtex / 36f ordinary PET DTY (melting enthalpy of 55 J / g). The rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0065] Example 3:
[0066] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the B yarn uses 33dtex / 24f PET FDY (melting enthalpy is 28 J / g). The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0067] Example 4:
[0068] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the B yarn uses 30dtex / 36f PET FDY (melting enthalpy is 26J / g). The rest is the same as Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0069] Example 5:
[0070] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 220 mm / 100 coils, and a grey cloth with a density of 33 w / inch*50 c / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0071] Example 6:
[0072] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 205 mm / 100 stitches, and a grey cloth with a density of 33 w / inch*77 c / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0073] Example 7:
[0074] Knitting was performed on a 36G single-jersey circular knitting machine using a plain plating stitch. Yarn A was selected as the outer yarn and yarn B was selected as the inner yarn. Yarn B was all 30 dtex / 24f ordinary PET DTY (melting enthalpy 47 J / g). The yarn length of yarn A was 225 mm / 100 stitches, and the yarn length of yarn B was 219 mm / 100 stitches. The remaining conditions were the same as in Example 1, yielding the knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.
[0075] Example 8:
[0076] The surface yarn is A yarn, all of which are 70dtex / 12f sea-island composite fibers (the sea component is co-PET and the island component is PTT / PET). The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 1.
[0077] Example 9:
[0078] The surface yarn is A yarn, all of which are 70dtex / 12f sea-island composite fibers (the sea component is co-PET and the island component is PET / PET). The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 2.
[0079] Example 10:
[0080] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 209 mm / 100 coils, and a grey cloth with a density of 33w / inch*73c / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 2.
[0081] Example 11:
[0082] The knitting was performed on a 36G single-jersey circular knitting machine using a plain plating stitch. The surface yarn was selected as A yarn, and the lining yarn was selected as B yarn, wherein all B yarns were 30 dtex / 24f PET FDY (melting enthalpy 40 J / g). The length of A yarn was 225 mm / 100 stitches, and the length of B yarn was 219 mm / 100 stitches. The remaining structure was the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 2.
[0083] Example 12:
[0084] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 210 mm / 100 coils. A grey cloth with a density of 31 w / inch*72 c / inch is obtained. Intermediate setting is performed at 180°C for 60 seconds, and dyeing (130°C*30 min) is performed. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details are shown in Table 2.
[0085] Example 13:
[0086] Two types of yarns were used for the lining yarns: lining yarn 1 and lining yarn 2. Lining yarn 1 was yarn B, which was 33 dtex / 12f PET FDY (melting enthalpy 34 J / g), and lining yarn 2 was yarn C, which was ordinary PET DTY with 30 dtex / 36f. A one-to-one arrangement was adopted, and the remaining conditions were the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. See Table 2 for details.
[0087] Example 14:
[0088] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 230 mm / 100 coils, and a grey cloth with a density of 33w / inch*48c / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 2.
[0089] Example 15:
[0090] On a 32G Trick single-sided warp knitting machine, warp plain weave was used for weaving, GB1 was selected as A yarn, GB2 was selected as B yarn, A yarn was all 70dtex / 12f sea-island composite fiber (the sea component was co-PET, and the island component was parallel PBT / PET), B yarn was all 33dtex / 12f PET FDY (melting enthalpy was 34J / g), A yarn let-off was 1300mm (line length was 270mm / 100 coils), B yarn let-off was 1200mm (line length was 250mm / 100 coils), and a grey fabric with a density of 33w / inch*67c / inch was obtained. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 2.
[0091] Example 16:
[0092] On a 32G double-sided circular knitting machine, knitting was performed using a cotton wool weave. Yarn A was used as the face yarn, and yarn B was used as the back yarn. Yarn A consisted entirely of 70 dtex / 12f sea-island composite fiber (the sea component was co-PET, and the island component was parallel PBT / PET). Yarn B consisted entirely of 33 dtex / 12f PET FDY (melting enthalpy 34 J / g). The yarn length of yarn A was 240 mm / 100 coils, and the yarn length of yarn B was 230 mm / 100 coils. A greige fabric with a density of 38 w / inch by 51 c / inch was obtained. The remaining conditions were the same as in Example 1, yielding the knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 2 for details.
[0093] Example 17:
[0094] Two types of yarns are selected as the surface yarns, namely surface yarn 1 and surface yarn 2. Surface yarn 1 is selected as yarn A, lining yarn is yarn B, and surface yarn 2 is yarn C. 10 yarns constitute a cycle, wherein yarns 1 to 9 are yarns A, all of which are 42 dtex / 12f sea-island composite fibers (the sea component is co-PET and the island component is PBT / PET), and the 10th yarn is yarn C, which is 30 dtex / 36f ordinary PET DTY (melting enthalpy of 55 J / g). The rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 3.
[0095] Example 18:
[0096] Two types of yarns were used as the surface yarns, namely surface yarn 1 and surface yarn 2. Surface yarn 1 was selected as yarn A, lining yarn as yarn B, and surface yarn 2 as yarn C. 10 yarns constituted a cycle, wherein odd-numbered yarns were yarn A, all of which were 42 dtex / 12f sea-island composite fibers (the sea component was co-PET and the islands were PBT / PET), and even-numbered yarns were yarn C, which were 30 dtex / 36f ordinary PET DTY (melting enthalpy of 55 J / g). The rest of the process was the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Table 3.
[0097] Comparative Example 1:
[0098] The surface yarn is A yarn, all A yarns are 56dtex / 48f PBT / PET DTY, and the length of A yarn is 218mm / 100 coils. A grey fabric with a density of 33w / inch*63 / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric, as shown in Table 3.
[0099] Comparative Example 2:
[0100] The surface yarn is A yarn, and the lining yarn is B yarn. All A yarns are 30 dtex / 288f PET DTY, with a yarn length of 214 mm / 100 coils, and the B yarn length is 210 mm / 100 coils. A grey fabric with a density of 36 w / inch*70 c / inch is obtained. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric, as shown in Table 3.
[0101] Comparative Example 3:
[0102] Two types of yarns were used as surface yarns, surface yarn 1 and surface yarn 2. Surface yarn 1 was selected as yarn A, and surface yarn 2 was selected as yarn C. Ten yarns constituted one cycle, wherein yarns 1 to 3 were yarn A: 42 dtex / 12f island-in-the-sea composite fiber, and yarns 4 to 10 were yarn C: 30 dtex / 36f ordinary PET DTY (melting enthalpy of 55 J / g). A greige fabric with a density of 33 w / inch * 68 c / inch was obtained. The remaining procedures were the same as in Example 1, resulting in a knitted fabric, as shown in Table 3.
[0103] Comparative Example 4:
[0104] The surface yarn is yarn A, the lining yarn is yarn B, the yarn length of yarn A is 200 mm / 100 coils, and the yarn length of yarn B is 187 mm / 100 coils. No preshrinkage or intermediate shaping is performed. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric, as shown in Table 3.
[0105] Comparative Example 5:
[0106] The lining yarn is B yarn, and the length of B yarn is 210 mm / 100 coils, and a grey cloth with a density of 31 w / inch*72 c / inch is obtained. Then, the fabric is reduced, intermediate-set (190°C*60 seconds), dyed, and post-finished without pre-shrinking. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric, as shown in Table 3.
[0107] According to Table 1, Table 2, and Table 3,
[0108] (1) It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 2 that, under the same conditions, the fabric with an A yarn content of 100% on the surface where the A yarn is located is compared with the fabric with an A yarn content of 70% on the surface where the A yarn is located. The two have similar bone feel (similar drape coefficient), and the elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) of the former are better than those of the latter.
[0109] (2) Comparing Example 2 with Example 18, under the same conditions, the fabric with an A yarn content of 70% on the surface where the A yarn is located is compared with the fabric with an A yarn content of 50% on the surface where the A yarn is located. The two have similar bone feel (similar drape coefficients), and the elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) of the former are better than those of the latter.
[0110] (3) It can be seen from Examples 3 and 4 that under the same conditions, T B / T A For 11.5 fabric and T B / T A Compared with fabrics with a coefficient of 8.3, the former has better elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate), bone feel (high drape coefficient) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) than the latter.
[0111] (4) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 5 that under the same conditions, L A / L B For 1.27 fabric and L A / L B Compared with fabrics with a coefficient of 1.00, the former has better elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate), bony feel (high drape coefficient) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) than the latter.
[0112] (5) It can be seen from Examples 5 and 14 that under the same conditions, L A / L B For 1.00 fabric and L A / L B Compared with fabrics with a lateral elastic recovery rate of 0.96, the former has better lateral elastic recovery (high lateral elastic recovery rate), bone feel (high drape coefficient) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) than the latter.
[0113] (6) It can be seen from Example 10 and Example 6 that under the same conditions, L A / L B For 1.97 fabric and L A / L B Compared with the fabric with a drape coefficient of 2.53, although the former has a slightly lower bony feel (low drape coefficient) than the latter, the former's elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate) and delicate feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) are better than the latter.
[0114] (7) It can be seen from Example 11 and Example 7 that the elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate), bony feel (high drape coefficient) and fine feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) of the fabric with a melting enthalpy of yarn B of 40 J / g are better than those of the fabric with a melting enthalpy of yarn B of 47 J / g.
[0115] (8) It can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 that, under the same conditions, the longitudinal elastic recovery of the fabric composed of A yarn with a monofilament fineness of 1.20 dtex is comparable to that of the fabric composed of A yarn with a monofilament fineness of 0.12 dtex. Although the transverse elastic recovery of the former is slightly better than that of the latter, the drape coefficient is slightly lower than that of the latter, that is, the bony feel is slightly inferior to the latter, and the average dynamic friction coefficient is very high, and the delicate feel of the fabric surface is poor.
[0116] (9) It can be seen from Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 that, under the same conditions, the elastic recovery (high elastic recovery rate) of the fabric whose A yarn is ultrafine PET single-component fiber is better than that of the fabric whose A yarn is ultrafine PBT / PET two-component composite fiber, but the delicate feeling (low average dynamic friction coefficient) and bony feeling (low drape coefficient) of the fabric are not as good as those of the latter, and are both relatively poor.
[0117] (10) It can be seen from Comparative Example 3 and Example 2 that, under the same conditions, the longitudinal elastic recovery of the fabric with an A yarn content of 30% on the surface where the A yarn is located is comparable to that of the fabric with an A yarn content of 70% on the surface where the A yarn is located. Although the transverse elastic recovery of the former is slightly better than that of the latter, the fabric has a poor sense of bone (low drape coefficient) and the fabric surface is not delicate (high average dynamic friction coefficient).
[0118] (11) From Comparative Example 4 and Example 1, it can be seen that under the same conditions, E A / E B For fabrics of 0.5 and E A / E B Compared with the fabric with a coefficient of 1.2, under the same conditions, the elastic recovery (low elastic recovery rate), bony feel (low drape coefficient) and fineness of the fabric of the former are not as good as the latter, and are all relatively poor.
[0119] (12) From Comparative Example 5 and Example 12, it can be seen that under the same conditions, E A / E B For 2.5 fabric and E A / E B Compared with fabrics with a drape coefficient of 2.0, although the former has a better bony feel (high drape coefficient) and a finer feel of the fabric surface (low average dynamic friction coefficient) than the latter, its elastic recovery (low elastic recovery rate) is far inferior to the latter and is very poor.
Claims
1. Knitted fabrics, characterized by: The knitted fabric comprises at least A yarn and B yarn, wherein the A yarn is an ultrafine bicomponent fiber with a single yarn fineness of less than 0.20 dtex, and the content of the A yarn on at least one side of the surface where the A yarn is located is W A The elastic elongation E of the A yarn in the knitted fabric is above 50%. A and the elastic elongation E of yarn B B Satisfies the following relationship: 1.0<E A / E B ≤2.
0.
2. The knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The melting enthalpy of the B yarn is below 40 J / g.
3. The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The length L of the A yarn A The length L of the yarn B B Satisfy the following relationship: 1.00<L A / L B ≤2.
00.
4. The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The knitted fabric has a transverse elastic recovery rate of more than 60%, and a longitudinal elastic recovery rate of more than 80%.
5. The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The drape coefficient of the knitted fabric is above 8.0%.
6. The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The average dynamic friction coefficient of the surface where the A yarn is located is below 0.40.
Citation Information
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