Stable composition with excellent texture comprising a mixture of a wax, an ester, an amino acid surfactant and either a gemini surfactant or a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a1) at least one gemini surfactant or (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide an excellent texture of both a less sticky feeling and a rich feel.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] STABLE COMPOSITION WITH EXCELLENT TEXTURE

[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is stable and can provide excellent texture such as a less sticky feeling to touch or a good penetration feeling, and a rich feel.

[0006] BACKGROUND ART

[0007] There are many needs for skin cosmetic products, such as milky lotions, which are stable without causing phase separation and the like.

[0008] On the other hand, consumers also seek for skin cosmetic products which can also provide excellent texture such as a less sticky feeling to touch after application onto the skin or a good penetration feeling during application onto the skin, and a rich feel after application onto the skin.

[0009] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0010] However, a less sticky feeling to touch or a good penetration feeling as well as a rich feel are often inconsistent with each other. In other words, it is difficult for a cosmetic product with a less sticky feeling to touch or a good penetration feeling to provide a rich feel, and it is difficult for a cosmetic product with a rich feel to provide a less sticky feeling to touch or a good penetration feeling. Thus, it is not easy for a cosmetic product to provide an excellent texture of both a less sticky feeling / a good penetration feeling and a rich feel at the same time.

[0011] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide an excellent texture of both of a less sticky feeling or a good penetration feeling, and of a rich feel.

[0012] The above objective of the present invention, in particular, to provide a stable composition which can provide an excellent texture of both a less sticky feeling and a rich feel, can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0013] (a1) at least one gemini surfactant;

[0014] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0015] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0016] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof.

[0017] The (a1) gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.

[0018] The amount of the (a1) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The above objective of the present invention, in particular, to provide a stable composition which can provide an excellent texture of both a good penetration feeling and a rich feel, can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0019] (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters;

[0020] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0021] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0022] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0023] Each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 7 or more.

[0024] The (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may comprise a combination of:

[0025] (a2-1) a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 5 to less than 11 , preferably from 6 to less than 11 , and more preferably from 7 to less than 11 ; and

[0026] (a2-2) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a1) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0027] The total amount of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The (b) jojoba ester wax may be selected from fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II): R1-COO-CH2-R1(II) wherein R1is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0029] The amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol may be selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.

[0031] The amount of the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of a C2-C24polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0. 1 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof may be represented by the following formula (III): wherein:

[0033] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0034] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or to 1 ;

[0035] Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, - CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, - (CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O-M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0036] The amount of the (d) a carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0038] The amount of the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

[0040] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0041] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a new approach to provide a stable composition which can provide excellent texture of both of a less sticky feeling or a good penetration feeling, and of a rich feel.

[0042] Thus, the first aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0043] (a1) at least one gemini surfactant; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0044] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention of the above first aspect is stable and can provide excellent texture of both a less sticky feeling and a rich feel.

[0046] The composition according to the present invention of the above first aspect is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even under temperature changes from a cold to hot temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time, and can be stored for a long period of time even under temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention of the above first can provide a less (no or reduced) sticky feeling to touch, during and after application, preferably after application.

[0048] The term “sticky” here means a property which provides a tacky feeling to the skin.

[0049] The second aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0050] (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters;

[0051] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0052] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0053] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention of the above second aspect is stable and can provide an excellent texture of both a good penetration feeling and a rich feel.

[0055] The composition according to the present invention of the above second aspect is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even under temperature changes from a cold to hot temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time, and can be stored for a long period of time even under temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.

[0056] The composition according to the present invention of the above second aspect can provide a good penetration feeling, during and after application, preferably during application.

[0057] The term “penetration feeling” here means a feeling such that the ingredients in the composition penetrate into the skin.

[0058] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a rich feel, during and after application, preferably after application.

[0059] The “rich feel” here includes a thick and moist feeling to the touch, or an oily or waxy feeling to the touch, together with an elastic feeling with the fingers to the touch as if the composition pushes back the fingers. Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent texture when being used.

[0060] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention and the like will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[0061] [Composition]

[0062] The present invention relates to, first, a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0063] (a1) at least one gemini surfactant;

[0064] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0065] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0066] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof.

[0067] The above composition may be referred to as the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect.

[0068] The present invention also relates to, second, a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0069] (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters;

[0070] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0071] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and

[0072] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0073] The above composition may be referred to as the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect.

[0074] (Gemini Surfactant)

[0075] The composition according to the present invention of the first aspect comprises (a1) at least one gemini surfactant. A single type of the gemini surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of the gemini surfactants may be used in combination.

[0076] The (a1) gemini surfactant or dimeric surfactants used for the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:

[0077] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; and

[0078] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, No. 7, pp. 67-70.

[0079] The (a1) gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereafter, it may be referred to as “amide compound”). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): wherein

[0080] Y’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j 1 , k1 , j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j 1 , k1 , j2, k2) = any of (2, 0,2,0), (2, 0,0, 2), (0,2, 2,0) and (0,2, 0,2), and

[0081] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12.

[0082] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = J2 = 0, and kl k2 = 2.

[0083] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y’ is -COONa, j1 =j2 = 0, k1 k2 2; and L = 10.

[0084] The amide compound can be prepared by, for example, reacting a long chain N-acyl acidic amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5 °C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably 0°C to 60°C.

[0085] As the amide compound, mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

[0086] Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is in particular preferable. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is marketed as Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or as Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and of butyleneglycol.

[0087] In another embodiment, the (a1) gemini surfactants can also comply with the following formula (I): wherein:

[0088] R1and R3represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical, comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

[0089] R2represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0090] X and Y represent, independently of each other, a -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ group, wherein:

[0091] Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, wherein M represent H or an alkali metal or alkali earth metal ion or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion; a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and n varies from 1 to 10.

[0092] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each one of the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a residue of coconut fatty acid (comprising mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0093] In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each one of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3Mgroup, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.

[0094] The spacer R2consists advantageously of a C1-C3linear alkylene chain and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1 .

[0095] A surfactant of this type is in particular the one identified by the 1NC1 name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: with the understanding that PEG represents the CH2CH2O group and that “cocoyl” represents the coconut fatty acid residue.

[0096] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.

[0097] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) may be used in a mixture with other surfactants, and in particular in a mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14-C20such as stearate) and of glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14-C20such as stearate) and of citric acid and glycerol (in particular a C6-C22fatty acid ester and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0098] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate, of glyceryl stearate, of glyceryl stearate monocitrate and of behenyl alcohol.

[0099] For example, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

[0100] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0101] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and

[0102] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI name).

[0103] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect may comprise, as the gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material with INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.

[0104] The amount of the (a1) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] On the other hand, the amount of the (al ) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Thus, the amount of the (a1) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] (Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)

[0108] The composition according to the present invention of the second aspect comprises (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0109] In other words, the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect comprises two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, in which one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters have at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0110] Each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and more esters, preferably mono- or di-esters, and more preferably mono-esters, of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may independently comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may independently comprise 26 or less carbon atoms, preferably 22 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or less carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may independently comprise carbon atoms of from 4 to 26, preferably from 6 to 22, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0111] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid.

[0112] It is preferable that the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of at least one of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters have at least one branched carbon chain. As the fatty acid having at least one branched carbon chain may be selected from branched fatty acids such as isostearic acid. It may be more preferable that the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of one of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters is a branched fatty acid.

[0113] It is preferable that each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters independently comprise 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 8 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 to 6 glycerol units.

[0114] According to the present invention, at least one of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof. All of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl fatty acid moiety thereof.

[0115] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect comprises two poly glyceryl fatty acid esters, wherein one of the two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof. Both of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl fatty acid moiety thereof.

[0116] As examples of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, mention may be made of PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dicocoate, PG5 trioleate, PG 10 pentaoleate, PG2 caprate, PG2 laurate, PG4 oleate, PG4 laurate, PG4 isostearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 distearate, PG 10 trilaurate, PG 10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG 10 diisostearate, PG 10 triisostearate, PG 10 tricocoate, PG 10 dioleate, PG5 laurate, PG3 cocoate, PG3 caprate, PG4 caprate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprylate, PG-6 tricaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG-6 dicaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dioleate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG 10 isostearate, PG 10 oleate, PG 10 cocoate, PG 10 dicocoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 7 or more.

[0118] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

[0119] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may comprise or may be a combination of:

[0120] (a2-1) a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 5 to less than 11 , preferably from 6 to less than 11 , and more preferably from 7 to less than 11 ; and

[0121] (a2-2) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a2- 1) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester and the (a2-2) second poly glyceryl fatty acid ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

[0122] As the (a2-l) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, mention may be made of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 oleate (HLB:7.2), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG-6 tricaprylate (HLB: 10.6), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: 10.2), PG6 dioleate (HLB: 9.8), PG10 trilaurate (HLB: 10.4), PG10 distearate (HLB: 9-11), PG 10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricocoate (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof.

[0123] As the (a2-2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, mention may be made of PG 10 dioleate (HLB: 1 1 .9), PG5 laurate (HLB: 15.8), PG3 cocoate (HLB: 12), PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.7), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1 ), PG10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate (HLB: 14.9), PG10 dimyristate (HLB: 12.3), PG10 stearate (HLB: 15.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.9), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), PG10 dicocoate (HLB: 12), and mixtures thereof.

[0124] It is particularly preferable that the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters be a combination of PG2 isostearate and PG4 caprate.

[0125] The total amount of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] On the other hand, the total amount of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Thus, the total amount of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect may range from 0. 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] (Jojoba Ester Wax)

[0129] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one jojoba ester wax. A single type of the jojoba ester wax may be used, but two or more different types of the jojoba ester waxes may be used in combination. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0130] The term “lipophilic compound” refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0131] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothennic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357- 3 ; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q 100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0132] The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0133] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from - 20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0134] The (b) jojoba ester wax can be a saturated form of jojoba esters, which can be frilly hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):

[0135] R1-COO-CH2-R1(II) wherein

[0136] R1is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0137] The (b) jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula:

[0138] CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-CH2-(CH2)x-COO-CH2-(CH2)y-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3wherein x and y are 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0139] The jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and of monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), starting from the methyl end group (-CH3) of the chain of the respective fatty acid or alcohol.

[0140] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and of fatty esters with an even number of carbon atoms, mainly 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of the wax esters is indicated below.

[0141] The jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0142] By way of examples of a jojoba wax ester, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0143] The amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Thus, the amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] (C12-C24Fatty Acid Ester of a C2-C24polyol)

[0147] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol. A single type of the C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol may be used, but two or more different types of the C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol may be used in combination.

[0148] The (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol is different from each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters explained above.

[0149] The C12-C24fatty acid for the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol, preferably the C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol, can be unsaturated or saturated acid, for example, stearic acid, oleic acid, or palmitic acid.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0151] The polyol for the fatty acid ester of a polyol can be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two OH functions and in particular at least three OH functions.

[0152] The polyols that are advantageously suitable for the fatty acid ester of a polyol are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0153] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglycerin-3 and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3- propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol and pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. It is preferably glycerol.

[0155] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol.

[0156] As examples of the C12-C24fatty acid esters of glycerol, mention may be made of glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.

[0157] As commercially available products, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils.

[0158] Use may also be made of monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate), for example sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0159] Preferably, the C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0160] The amount of the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Thus, the amount of the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] (Carboxylic or Carboxylate Anionic Surfactant)

[0164] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof. A single type of such an anionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of such anionic surfactants may be used in combination. The (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof (hereafter, may be referred to as simply the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant) is different from the (a1) gemini surfactant explained above.

[0165] The term “hydrocarbon-based chain” is intended to mean a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group constituted mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced with an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. As examples of C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chains, mention may be made of C8-C30acyl radicals.

[0166] By way of examples of amino acids, mention may be made of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine and sarcosine.

[0167] More specifically, mention may be made, by way of carboxylate anionic surfactants chosen from the salts of amino acids modified with at least one fatty chain, of the following compounds: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from the compounds having the following structure (III): in which:

[0169] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0170] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or to 1 ;

[0171] Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, - CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, - (CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O-M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0172] According to one preferred embodiment, in the above formula (III):

[0173] Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22alkyl or alkenyl group;

[0174] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0;

[0175] Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0176] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates).

[0177] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) is / are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, especially the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0178] Preferably, mention may be made, by way of salts of amino acids modified with at least one C8- C30hydrocarbon-based chain, of glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0179] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof is / are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0180] More preferentially, the acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0181] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft C A, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK- 11 and Amisoft CK-11 , or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0182] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto .

[0183] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

[0184] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

[0185] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monosodium salt of n- stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used.

[0186] It is in particular preferable that the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention be sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0187] The amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Thus, the amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] (Saturated C12-C24Fatty Alcohol)

[0191] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one saturated C12- C24fatty alcohol. A single type of the saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of the saturated C12-C24fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0192] The (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol may be liner or branched, and preferably linear. Preferably, the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0193] The (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the present invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0194] It is more preferable that the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol. As cetyl alcohols that may be most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, use may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Togoalkanol® 16 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 sold by the company Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 sold by the company VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P sold by the company Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min sold by the company Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) sold by the company Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 sold by the company Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 sold by the company Kao, and Acilol® 16 sold by the company Aegis Chemical.

[0195] As stearyl alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® 18 / 98 F and Ecorol® 18 / 98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 sold by the company Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 sold by the company Kao, Acilol® 18 sold by the company Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 sold by the company Sasol and NAA® sold by the company Nihon Yushi.

[0196] As cetearyl (cetylstearyl) alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes sold by the company Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P sold by the company Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN sold by the company Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 sold by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, Conol® 30 CK sold by the company New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 sold by the company Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) sold by the company VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR sold by the company Godrej Industries.

[0197] The amount of the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] On the other hand, the amount of the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] Thus, the amount of the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] (Water)

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) water.

[0202] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] On the other hand, the amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] (Oil)

[0206] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0207] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (nonsolid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0208] The (g) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0209] The (g) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.

[0210] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0212] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0213] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0214] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0215] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0216] Esters of C4-C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0217] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0218] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0219] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously, and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0220] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0222] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.

[0223] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0224] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2 -ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2- ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate). As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0226] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0227] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0228] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0229] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0230] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:

[0231] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 ’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0232] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10-6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C. Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0233] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione®oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil®series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil®oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0234] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0235] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0236] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which

[0237] R1to R10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1- C30hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

[0238] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265. As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1to R10are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

[0239] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C5-C19alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0240] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated poly isobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0241] It is also preferable that the (g) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.

[0242] Preferably, the (g) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g / mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0243] The (g) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, and a mixture thereof.

[0244] The amount of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 % by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] On the other hand, the amount of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] The amount of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] (Additional Wax)

[0248] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional wax. A single type of the additional wax may be used, but two or more different types of the additional waxes may be used in combination.

[0249] The additional wax is different from the (b) jojoba ester wax explained above.

[0250] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0251] The term “lipophilic compound” refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0252] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothennic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357- 3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0253] The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0254] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from - 20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0255] The additional waxes can be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and can be of plant, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0256] As the additional waxes, hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.

[0257] Mentions may be especially made of beeswax, for example the product sold under the name Cire d’abelle blanche BR G889 by Koster Keunen, carnauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba T1 Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or a mixture thereof.

[0258] It is preferable that the additional wax be selected from plant waxes, and more preferably be helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0259] The amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition accordin g to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] On the other hand, the amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] (Additional Optional Ingredients)

[0262] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of additional optional ingredien(s), known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants; organic and inorganic powders such as fillers; thickeners; sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preserving agents; vitamins or provitamins, for instance, tocopherol and panthenol; fragrances; plant extracts; and so on.

[0263] The composition according to the present invention may include one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerol, sugar, and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers.

[0264] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.001 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0266] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] (Embodiments)

[0268] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention of the first aspect comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0269] (i) from 0.1 % to 1% by weight of (a1) at least one gemini surfactant;

[0270] (ii) from 0.1 % to 1% by weight of (b) at least one jojoba ester wax of formula (II): R1-COO-CI h-R1(II) wherein

[0271] R1is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22;

[0272] (iii) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0273] (iv) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof. The composition according to the present invention of the first aspect in the form of the above particularly preferred embodiment may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any of, preferably all of:

[0274] (v) from 1% to 5% by weight of (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol;

[0275] (vi) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one additional wax, different from the (b) jojoba ester wax, selected from plant waxes, preferably helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax;

[0276] (vii) from 0.001 % to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol and polyglycerol; and

[0277] (viii) from 0.001% to 10% by weight of vitamin such as tocopherol.

[0278] The composition according to the present invention of the first aspect in the form of the above particularly preferred embodiment may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any of, preferably all of:

[0279] (ix) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, preferably a combination of: a (a2-l) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 5 to less than 11 preferably from 6 to less than 11 , and more preferably from 7 to less than 11 ; and a (a2-2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a2-l) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the (a2-2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, and more preferably a combination of:

[0280] PG2 isostearate and PG4 caprate;

[0281] (x) from 50% to 70% by weight of (f) water; and

[0282] (xi) from 5% to 40% by weight of (g) at least one oil.

[0283] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention of the second aspect comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0284] (i) from 1% to 5% by weight of (a2) at least two poly glyceryl fatty acid esters wherein at least one of the (a) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof;

[0285] (ii) from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight of (b) at least one jojoba ester wax of formula (II): R1-COO-CH2-R1(II) wherein

[0286] R1is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22;

[0287] (iii) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0288] (iv) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from glutamates.

[0289] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the above particularly preferred embodiment of the second aspect may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any of, preferably all of:

[0290] (v) from 1 % to 5% by weight of (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol;

[0291] (vi) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one additional wax, different from the (b) jojoba ester wax, selected from plant waxes, preferably helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax;

[0292] (vii) from 0.001% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol and polyglycerol; and

[0293] (viii) from 0.001% to 10% by weight of vitamin such as tocopherol.

[0294] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the above particularly preferred embodiment of the second aspect may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any of, preferably all of:

[0295] (ix) from 50% to 70% by weight of (f) water; and

[0296] (x) from 5% to 40% by weight of (g) at least one oil.

[0297] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the above particularly preferred embodiment may further comprise:

[0298] (xi) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a1) at least one gemini surfactant, different from the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant.

[0299] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as the ingredients (b) to (e), as well as the additional wax, a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium steroyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, having the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera (and) Polyglycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse.

[0300] (Preparation)

[0301] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0302] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.

[0303] (Form)

[0304] The composition according to the present invention may be in various forms.

[0305] As the composition according to the present invention includes, at least, (b) jojoba ester wax(es), which may be similar to oil(s), if the composition according to the present invention includes (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0306] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (g) at least one oil and (f) water, of course, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion. The composition according to the present invention in the form of an O / W emulsion comprises dispersed fatty phases such as oil phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases can be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0307] The aspect of the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion may be transparent or translucent.

[0308] [Process and Use]

[0309] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.

[0310] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.

[0311] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

[0312] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.

[0313] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.

[0314] The care product may be a lotion, a cream, and the like.

[0315] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a1) at least one gemini surfactant in a composition comprising:

[0316] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0317] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol;

[0318] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof; and optionally,

[0319] (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol; in order to stabilize the composition and / or reduce the sticky feeling to the touch provided by the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin.

[0320] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0321] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0322] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol;

[0323] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof; and optionally (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol, in a composition comprising (a1) at least one gemini surfactant, in order to stabilize the composition and / or increase rich feel provided by the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin.

[0324] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in a composition comprising:

[0325] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0326] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol;

[0327] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof; and optionally

[0328] (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol, in order to stabilize the composition and / or improve the penetration feeling provided by the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin.

[0329] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0330] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0331] (c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol;

[0332] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof; and optionally

[0333] (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol;, in a composition comprising (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, in order to stabilize the composition and / or cause rich feel provided by the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin.

[0334] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (f) water.

[0335] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (g) at least one oil.

[0336] The composition used in the above use according to the present invention may include any other optional ingredients, as mentioned above.

[0337] The explanations regarding the ingredients (a1) / (a2) to (d), as well as the ingredients (e) to (g) and the other optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the composition used in the above use according to the present invention.

[0338] EXAMPLES

[0339] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0340] [Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2 A] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2A shown in Table 1A, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1A as follows:

[0341] (1) mixing the ingredients in the rows of A in Table 1A at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A);

[0342] (2) mixing the ingredients in the rows of B in Table 1A at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase B);

[0343] (3) adding the uniform mixture (Phase B) to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by homogenizing them at 75-80°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B);

[0344] (4) adding the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1A to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by homogenizing them at 75-80°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C);

[0345] (5) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C) to 30°C;

[0346] (6) adding the ingredients in the rows of D to F in Table 1A to the uniform mixture (Phases

[0347] A, B and C), followed by homogenizing them at 30°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A-F); and

[0348] (7) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A-F) to a room temperature to obtain a composition according to any one of Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2A.

[0349] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1A are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. The (a1) to (g) in Table 1A correspond to those in the claims.

[0350] Table 1A [Evaluations]

[0351] (Non-Sticky Feeling)

[0352] Five professional panelists evaluated “non-sticky feeling” after application of the compositions according to Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2A. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0353] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (stickiness is not felt at all after application)

[0354] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (stickiness is hardly felt after application)

[0355] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness is felt after application)

[0356] Very Poor: From 1 .9 to 1 .0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application)

[0357] The results are shown in Table 1A.

[0358] (Rich Feel)

[0359] Five professional panelists evaluated “rich feel” after application of the compositions according to Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2A. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the rich feel (rich texture) after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0360] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (richness is felt after application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (richness is slightly felt after application) Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (little richness is felt after application) Very Poor: From 1 .9 to 1 .0 (richness is not felt after application)

[0361] The results are shown in Table 1A.

[0362] (Stability)

[0363] Each of the compositions according to Example 1A and Comparative Examples 1A-2A was filled into a glass bottle and was held under temperature changing conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated for the degree of change (transparency, color, odor and pH), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0364] Very Good: Almost the same conditions as at production.

[0365] Good: Little changes in transparency, color, odor and pH were observed. Neither separation nor creaming aspect was observed.

[0366] Poor: Changes in transparency, color, odor and pH were clearly observed. Separations, creaming and crystallizations were also clearly observed.

[0367] Very Poor: Changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were remarkably noticed. Separations, creaming and crystallizations were be remarkably noticed.

[0368] The results are shown in Table 1A.

[0369] (Summary) As is clear from Table 1A, the composition according to the present invention (Example 1A) was able to provide both a non-sticky feeling and a rich feel; and was stable under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of the ingredients (a1), (b), (c), and (d).

[0370] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent texture and stability, in particular, for a long time period even under temperature changes.

[0371] The cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, as the ingredients (e), in the composition according to Example 1A can be considered as insubstantial, because these are mere fatty substances.

[0372] The helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax / helianthus annuus seed cera, as the additional wax, in the composition according to Example 1A can also be considered as insubstantial, because these are mere fatty substances.

[0373] Also, the polyglyceryn-3 and tocopherol in the composition according to Example 1A can be considered as insubstantial, because the amount of each of these ingredients is very small.

[0374] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1A which did not include the ingredient (al ) showed sticky feeling to touch as well as instability.

[0375] The composition according to Comparative Example 2A which did not include the ingredients (b) and (c) showed inferior texture regarding rich feel as well as instability.

[0376] [Example IB and Comparative Examples 1B-3B]

[0377] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Example 1B and Comparative Examples 1B-3B shown in Table 1B, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:

[0378] (1) mixing the ingredients in the rows of A in Table 1B at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A);

[0379] (2) mixing the ingredients in the rows of B in Table 1B at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase B);

[0380] (3) adding the uniform mixture (Phase B) to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by homogenizing them at 75-80°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B);

[0381] (4) adding the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by homogenizing them at 75-80°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C);

[0382] (5) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C) to 30°C;

[0383] (6) adding the ingredients in the rows of D to F in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phases

[0384] A, B and C), followed by homogenizing them at 30°C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A-F); and

[0385] (7) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A-F) to a room temperature to obtain a composition according to any one of Example 1B and Comparative Examples 1B-3B.

[0386] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1B are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. The (a2) to (g) in Table 1B correspond to those in the claims.

[0387]

[0388] [Evaluations]

[0389] (Penetration Feeling)

[0390] Five professional panelists evaluated the “penetration feeling” after application of the compositions according to Example 1B and Comparative Examples 1B-3B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the penetration feeling during application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0391] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (penetration feeling is felt during application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (penetration feeling is slightly felt during application) Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (little penetration feeling is felt during application) Very Poor: From 1 .9 to 1 .0 (penetration feeling is not felt during application)

[0392] The results are shown in Table 1B.

[0393] (Rich Feel)

[0394] Five professional panelists evaluated the “rich feel” after application of the compositions according to Example 1B and Comparative Examples 1B-3B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the rich feel (rich texture) after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0395] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (richness is felt after application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (richness is slightly felt after application) Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (little richness is felt after application) Very Poor: From 1 .9 to 1 .0 (richness is not felt after application)

[0396] The results are shown in Table 1B.

[0397] (Stability)

[0398] Each of the compositions according to Example 1B and Comparative Examples 1B-3B was filled into a glass bottle and was held under temperature changing conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated for the degree of change (transparency, color, odor and pH), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0399] Very Good: Almost the same conditions as at production.

[0400] Good: Little changes in transparency, color, odor and pH were observed. Neither separation nor creaming aspect was observed.

[0401] Poor: Changes in transparency, color, odor and pH were clearly observed. Separations, creaming and crystallizations were also clearly observed.

[0402] Very Poor: Changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were remarkably noticed. Separations, creaming and crystallizations were be remarkably noticed.

[0403] The results are shown in Table 1B.

[0404] (Summary) As is clear from Table 1B, the composition according to the present invention (Example 1B) was able to provide both a good penetration feeling and a rich feel; and was stable under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of the ingredients (a2), (b), (c) and (d).

[0405] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent texture and stability, in particular, for a long time period even under temperature changes.

[0406] The cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, as the ingredients (e), in the composition according to Example 1B can be considered as insubstantial, because these are mere fatty substances.

[0407] The helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax / helianthus annuus seed cera in the composition according to Example 1B can also be considered as insubstantial, because these are mere fatty substances.

[0408] Also, the polyglyceryn-3 and tocopherol in the composition according to Example 1B can be considered as insubstantial, because the amount of each of these ingredients is very small.

[0409] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1B and 3B which did not include the ingredient (a2) showed a poor penetration feeling to the touch as well as instability.

[0410] The composition according to Comparative Example 2B which did not include the ingredients (b) and (c) showed inferior texture regarding rich feel as well as instability.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a1) at least one gemini surfactant;(b) at least one jojoba ester wax;(c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and(d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof.

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a1) gemini surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a1) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters;(b) at least one jojoba ester wax;(c) at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol; and(d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of the (a2) at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

5. The composition according to Claim 4, wherein each of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters has an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 7 or more.

6. The composition according to Claim 4 or 5, wherein the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprise a combination of:(a2-1) a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 5 to less than 11 , preferably from 6 to less than 11 , and more preferably from 7 to less than 11 ; and(a2-2) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of from 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a2- 1 ) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the (a2-2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 4 to 6, wherein the total amount of the (a2) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition is from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) jojoba ester wax is selected from fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):R’-COO-CH2-R1(II) whereinR1is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition is from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol is selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (c) C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of a C2-C24polyol in the composition is from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8- C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof is represented by the following formula (III):wherein:Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or to 1 ;Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, - CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, - (CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O-M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; andM is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the (d)carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

15. The composition according to Claim 14, wherein the amount of the (e) saturated C12-C24fatty alcohol(s) in the composition is from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15 to the keratin substance.