Cosmetic use of a combination of starch and a lentil extract in order to mattify the skin

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use, in order to mattify the skin of an individual, of a combination consisting of at least one Lens esculenta seed extract and at least one starch, the combination being applied topically to the skin, in a cosmetic composition suitable for application in this way.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC USE OF A COMBINATION OF STARCH AND A LENTIL EXTRACT TO MATTIFY THE SKIN

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic treatment of the skin, aimed at mattifying it. It relates more particularly to the cosmetic use, for mattifying the skin, of a combination of active substances for this purpose, more precisely a combination of a starch and an extract of Lens esculenta seed.

[0003] Shiny skin is generally linked to excessive sebum secretion. This is a problem that often affects adolescents, but can also manifest in adulthood due to excessive androgen production or external factors such as pollution. Shiny skin can also be linked to sweat, resulting from physical activity or specific weather conditions.

[0004] By definition, a mattifying product is a product that prevents the skin from shining and evens out the complexion. Cosmetic compositions for skin care and / or hygiene with mattifying properties give the skin a matte appearance, this matte appearance resulting from the light diffusion power of the mattifying substances contained in the composition and deposited on the surface of the skin. Mattifying cosmetic compositions are generally used by consumers to resolve shine problems caused by excess sebum. The reflections caused by excess sebum on the surface of the skin are generally considered unsightly. Obtaining a matte appearance for the skin is therefore highly sought after by consumers with combination or oily skin, and / or acne-prone skin.A mattifying effect is also expected from cosmetic compositions intended for use in hot and humid climates, such as sunscreen compositions. The need for mattifying properties in such compositions is all the greater since many of them contain oily ingredients necessary for the solubilization of sunscreens, so they themselves tend to make the skin shiny.

[0005] Mattifying compositions can also be used to hide skin imperfections, such as fine lines, pores, microreliefs or color variations, or to improve the hold of makeup on the skin. Shiny skin generally leads to poorer hold of makeup, which therefore tends to deteriorate over the course of the day. Mattifying cosmetic compositions have long been formulated using mineral fillers such as silica. Silica is a mineral element used in cosmetics in toothpastes, as an abrasive agent, but also in compositions for topical application to the skin, for its mattifying and smoothing properties. Silica is found in very abundant nature, in different forms. The silicas used in cosmetic formulations are almost all of synthetic origin, and consist of high-purity silicon dioxide.These silicas come in the form of very fine white powders whose properties depend on the manufacturing method. However, in addition to the fact that its particles have the disadvantage of sedimenting, silica is relatively controversial for use in the cosmetics field, particularly due to the negative environmental impact linked to its production.

[0006] There is currently a need for new, highly effective mattifying cosmetic actives that could replace silica in cosmetic compositions for topical application to the skin. Such a need is particularly difficult to satisfy in the context of cosmetic compositions comprising oily ingredients, such as sunscreen compositions, because these oily ingredients themselves cause additional shine to the skin.

[0007] Such new mattifying active ingredients must also be such that their integration into cosmetic compositions must not be to the detriment of:

[0008] - nor the desired fluidity of the compositions, which must have a sufficiently fluid texture to be compatible with application by the users' fingers, and therefore to be easy to spread,

[0009] - nor their sensory properties.

[0010] The Mintel Fact Sheet "Aquafluid Dermatological Sunscreen SPF 60" describes a silica-free sunscreen cosmetic composition with a mattifying effect. The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic active ingredient that has a significant mattifying effect when applied topically to the skin. The invention also aims for this active ingredient to contain no controversial substances and preferably to be derived from renewable resources.

[0011] An additional objective of the invention is that this active ingredient, integrated into a cosmetic composition, does not degrade the sensory properties of the latter.

[0012] It has now been discovered by the present inventors that these objectives are achieved by implementing, in cosmetic compositions for topical application to the skin, a combination consisting of one or more green lentil seed extracts and one or more rice starches. In particular, it has been discovered by the present inventors that, unexpectedly, such a combination, applied topically to the skin, has a particularly high mattifying power of the latter, originating from a synergy of action between green lentil seed extract(s) and rice starch(es), a synergy that nothing in the prior art suggested.

[0013] Thus, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use, for mattifying the skin, of a combination consisting of at least one, i.e. one or more, extract(s) of Lens esculenta seed and at least one, i.e. one or more, rice starch(es), applied topically to said skin. By "consisting of at least one extract of Lens esculenta seed and at least one starch", is meant that the combination contains one or more extracts of Lens esculenta seed and one or more starches, and no other ingredient, therefore in particular no other ingredient with mattifying properties.

[0014] Mattifying, in a classic way in itself, means totally or partially reducing the shiny appearance of the skin, that is to say giving it a more matte appearance, and / or unifying the complexion.

[0015] As indicated above, the combination used according to the invention, which will be referred to in the present description as a “matting combination”, has a high mattifying power. This mattifying power is advantageously obtained by the combined action of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract, which act synergistically. The mattifying effect is furthermore obtained very quickly following the application of the combination topically to the skin, in particular in less than 5 minutes, and it is exerted over a prolonged period of time. The combination used according to the invention comprises at least one Lens esculenta seed extract, this species being commonly known as green lentil. This extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction.It preferably contains, or consists essentially of, an oligosaccharide fraction, in particular composed mainly of oligosaccharides of the trehalose, maltose, maltotriose, stachyose, verbascose type. In particular embodiments of the invention, the Lens esculenta seed extract contains from 20 to 40% by weight, in particular from 25 to 35% by weight, of said oligosaccharide fraction, relative to the total weight of the extract (in the dry state).

[0016] The Lens esculenta seed extract incorporated into the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the preparation of the latter, is for example in the form of an aqueous solution, which may also contain additional substances, such as preservatives and / or substances intended in particular to better solubilize the components. Such an aqueous solution may for example contain from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% by weight, or from 4 to 6% by weight, of the Lens esculenta seed extract, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

[0017] The Lens esculenta seed extract can also be characterized by its total reducing sugar content; said content being determined by any conventional method known to those skilled in the art; preferably by the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS Mét al. (1956), Analytical chemistry, 28, n°3 p. 350-356).

[0018] The content of total sugars from Lens esculenta seed, these total sugars preferably being composed mainly of said oligosaccharide fraction, in particular for 70 to 90% by weight, in particular 75 to 80% by weight, in such an aqueous solution may for example be between 15 and 25 g / l. An example of such a solution based on Lens esculenta seed extract is marketed under the name p-REFINYL® by the company Silab (aqueous solution containing between 4 and 6% by weight of this extract). The combination used according to the invention may contain a single Lens esculenta seed extract, or a plurality of such extracts, each then preferably containing a polysaccharide fraction, in particular an oligosaccharide fraction.

[0019] The combination used according to the invention further comprises at least one rice starch, or a plurality of different rice starches.

[0020] These starch(es) may or may not be modified. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.

[0021] Preferably, the combination used according to the invention comprises at least one rice starch which is unmodified. It preferably comprises only unmodified rice starches.

[0022] Rice starch (Oryza sativa) is composed of two glucose polymers: amylose and amylopectin. This rice starch is characterized, among other starches, by the smallest starchy granule size, approximately 3 to 8 micrometers, as well as by its greatest whiteness. Furthermore, the safety of rice-based ingredients has been evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert group, and the conclusions, particularly for rice starch, are that it is safe as a cosmetic ingredient (Int J Toxicol. 2006:25 Suppl 2:91-120.doi: 10.1080 / 10915810600964626).

[0023] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the combination consists of a rice starch, preferably unmodified, and a Lens esculenta seed extract containing an oligosaccharide fraction, in particular in aqueous solution, in particular in the form of the specialty marketed under the name p-REFINYL®.

[0024] When the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) are contained in an aqueous solution, in particular containing the extract(s) at a concentration of between 2 and 8% by weight, for example in the form of the specialty p-REFINYL®, the weight ratio “aqueous solution containing the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) / rice starch(es)” in the combination used according to the invention is preferably between 1 / 10 and 10 / 1, more particularly between 1 / 8 and 2 / 1, more particularly still between 1 / 6 and 1 / 1, and even more particularly between 1 / 5 and 1 / 2. In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying combination is contained in a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin of an individual, in particular a mammal and more particularly a human, in a cosmetically compatible vehicle.

[0025] Cosmetically compatible means that the vehicle is suitable for use by contacting human and animal cells, in particular skin cells. Preferably, this vehicle has a pleasant odor, color and feel, it does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to turn a user away from the composition.

[0026] The vehicle preferably contains water. Preferably, the vehicle is water.

[0027] The cosmetic composition may meet one or more of the characteristics described below, implemented in isolation or in each of their technically effective combinations.

[0028] Generally speaking, all of the ingredients used in the cosmetic composition are compatible with use by topical application to the skin of an individual, in particular a mammal and more particularly a human.

[0029] The cosmetic composition in which the mattifying combination is integrated is preferably free of silica. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silica" designates, in a conventional manner in itself, the natural form of silicon dioxide SiO2, which is part of the composition of many minerals. Silica exists in the free state in different crystalline or amorphous forms, and in the combined state in silicates, the SiO2 groups then being linked to other atoms (aluminum Al, iron Fe, magnesium Mg, calcium Ca, sodium Na, potassium K, etc.). Thus, by the expression "free of silica", it is also included that the composition is free of silicates.

[0030] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not contain an additional mattifying ingredient compared to the mattifying combination contained therein.

[0031] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain zinc gluconate. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more additional agents, beneficial in helping to combat excess sebum, such as zinc gluconate and / or glyceryl laurate.

[0032] The mattifying combination according to the invention may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in a concentration such that the total quantity of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) in the cosmetic composition is between 0.025 and 0.2% by weight, preferably between 0.025 and 0.15% by weight, more preferably between 0.025 and 0.10% by weight, and preferentially between 0.05 and 0.10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This total quantity may for example be between 0.05 and 0.08% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular approximately equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] It has notably been discovered by the present inventors that such a low concentration of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) makes it possible, in combination with at least one rice starch, to give the composition very good mattifying power.

[0034] When the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) are in the form of aqueous solution(s), in particular containing them at a concentration of between 2 and 8% by weight, for example in the form of the specialty p-REFINYL®, the mattifying combination according to the invention may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in a concentration such that the total amount of such aqueous solution(s) in the cosmetic composition is between 0.5 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight, more preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight, preferably between 1 and 2% by weight, for example between 1 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the total amount of such aqueous solution(s), in particular p-REFINYL®, in the cosmetic composition is approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The mattifying combination according to the invention is further preferably incorporated into the cosmetic composition in a concentration such that the total quantity of starch(s) in the cosmetic composition is between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably between 2 and 12% by weight, for example between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, more preferably between 4 and 8% by weight, for example between 4 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Such a total quantity of starch(s) is in particular not detrimental to the desired fluidity of the composition, and does not prevent the obtaining of a composition which is sufficiently fluid for the intended applications.

[0037] The mattifying combination according to the invention is further preferably incorporated into the cosmetic composition in a concentration such that the total quantity of rice starch(es) in the cosmetic composition is between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably between 2 and 12% by weight, for example between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, more preferably between 4 and 8% by weight, for example between 4 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The rice starch(es) contained in the combination used according to the invention may be the only starches present in the cosmetic composition.

[0039] The cosmetic composition may otherwise further comprise one or more additional starches.

[0040] Additional starches that may be present in the cosmetic composition may come from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. These may be, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, rice starch, oat starch, barley starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, cassaya starch or sorghum starch.

[0041] These additional starches may or may not be modified. They are preferably unmodified.

[0042] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total quantity of the mattifying combination in the cosmetic composition is between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 4 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0043] An example of a cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention contains, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition:

[0044] - 0.025 to 0.10% by weight, for example 0.05 to 0.08% of a Lens esculenta seed extract comprising, or consisting of, an oligosaccharide fraction, for example containing from 20 to 40% by weight, in particular from 25 to 35% by weight, of said oligosaccharide fraction, relative to the total weight of the extract,

[0045] - and 2 to 8%, for example 4 to 6%, of rice starch.

[0046] The cosmetic composition may further contain one or more cosmetically active agents for the care and / or hygiene of the skin.

[0047] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition further contains at least one sunscreen.

[0048] A sunscreen is any substance capable of filtering solar radiation, particularly the sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation, to protect the skin from the harmful effects of this radiation. Such a substance can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0049] A sunscreen, or each of the sunscreens, contained in the cosmetic composition, can be chosen from those conventionally known, including:

[0050] - organic sunscreens such as triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, merocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, |3,|3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, and benzylmalonate derivatives; and

[0051] - inorganic sunscreens such as coated or uncoated metal oxides, such as titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium oxides.

[0052] A sunscreen can be "lipo-soluble" or "water-soluble", depending on whether it dissolves more easily in lipids or in water, or "insoluble". A non-soluble sunscreen is typically in particulate form, and can nevertheless be incorporated into a sunscreen composition, in particular in a dispersed form, in particular water-dispersed when it is dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0053] In particular advantageous embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not, however, comprise ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4. Octocrylene, like ethylhexyl salicylate, are suspected of being potential endocrine disruptors. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy, due to their potentially harmful effects for the user or for the environment.Examples include cinnamate derivatives (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate), homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor) or benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore not desirable. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one sunscreen, excluding ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0054] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one sunscreen, in particular a liposoluble UV filter, in particular chosen from:

[0055] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7), also known as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® A Plus, a liposoluble UVA filter with a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 354 nm;

[0056] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 187393-00-6), also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® S®, a liposoluble broadband filter, having two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm;

[0057] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone, or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4-[[(1,1-dimethylethyl)amino]carbonyl]phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]diimino]bis-, bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5), in particular as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb® HE, a fat-soluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 310 nm;

[0058] - ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® T 150, a fat-soluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 314 nm; and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name: 1,4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione; CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, in particular as marketed by DSM under the name Parsol® 1789, a fat-soluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 357 nm; or it contains a mixture of such fat-soluble sunscreens.

[0059] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one liposoluble UV filter chosen from:

[0060] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate;

[0061] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0062] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone;

[0063] - and ethylhexyl triazone; or it contains one of their mixtures.

[0064] A number of sunscreens are not sufficiently photostable, that is to say they tend to degrade during prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and therefore no longer provide sufficient protection for the user. It is particularly well known that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a UVA filter widely used in commercial sunscreen products, cleaves into different chemical constituents lacking absorbing capacity when subjected to UV irradiation, if it is not combined with other compounds to improve its photostability. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic composition is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0065] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one sunscreen, in particular a UV filter, of particulate organic type, in particular chosen from the following filters:

[0066] - 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine (CAS No.: 55514-22-2), also called phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine;

[0067] - methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (chemical name: 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol; CAS No. 103597-45-1), also known as MBBT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® M;

[0068] - and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 31274-51-8), also known as trisbiphenyl triazine or TBPT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B; or it contains one of their mixtures.

[0069] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises: a / at least one liposoluble UV filter chosen from:

[0070] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate;

[0071] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0072] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone;

[0073] - ethylhexyl triazone;

[0074] - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane;

[0075] - or any of their mixtures, b / and at least one particulate organic UV filter chosen from:

[0076] - 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine;

[0077] - methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol;

[0078] - and 2, 4, 6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0079] - or any of their mixtures.

[0080] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not comprise any water-soluble sunscreen. Alternatively, it may contain at least one water-soluble sunscreen, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0081] The cosmetic composition in which the mattifying combination according to the invention is integrated is in particular a cosmetic composition for the care and / or hygiene of the skin, in particular for the hydration of the skin, and is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, that is to say that it comprises an oily phase kept homogeneously dispersed in an aqueous phase, this dispersion being ensured by one or more emulsifier(s) contained in the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, this cosmetic composition comprises, in addition to the mattifying combination according to the invention, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0082] - 25 to 65% water,

[0083] - 10 to 30% oily emollient(s),

[0084] - from 0 to 5% aqueous emollient(s), including no aqueous emollient, or 0.01 to 5% in total aqueous emollient(s),

[0085] - from 0 to 1% of gelling agent(s), in particular no gelling agent, or 0.01 to 1% in total of gelling agent(s),

[0086] - and at least one emulsifier.

[0087] Such a cosmetic composition has good fluidity and a dry feel. It is not, or very little, sticky. Despite the absence or small quantity of aqueous emollients, it also advantageously has good moisturizing power. In general, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has good sensory qualities.

[0088] The cosmetic composition meeting the above definition preferably comprises from 30 to 60% by weight of water, preferably from 30 to 55% by weight of water, more preferably from 35 to 55% by weight of water, preferentially from 40 to 55% by weight of water, or even from 35 to 45% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] It may contain a single oily emollient, or a plurality of oily emollients. In the present description, the term oily emollient is understood to mean an ingredient present in the oily phase, and providing the composition according to the invention with good sensoriality, and a good capacity for softening the epidermis.

[0090] Each oily emollient present in the cosmetic composition is preferably chosen from vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid esters, and solid fatty substances.

[0091] The expression "solid fatty substances" in the present description includes solid fatty substances which have a melting point of less than or equal to 45°C, such as butters, for example shea butter, and solid fatty substances which have a melting point of greater than 45°C, such as waxes. According to particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not contain solid fatty substances.

[0092] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises, as oily emollient(s), at least one compound chosen from caprylic / capric triglycerides, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coconut alkanes and coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI Name: Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate), and dicaprylyl ether, or any mixture thereof. It preferably does not include any other oily emollients than those listed above.

[0093] The cosmetic composition comprises, in total, from 10 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it comprises, in total, from 15 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), preferentially from 20 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), and more preferably from 20 to 25% by weight of oily emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] The cosmetic composition further does not contain any aqueous emollient(s), or contains at most 5% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably at most 4% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 4% by weight, in total of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] For the purposes of this description, the term "aqueous emollient" means a polyol. A "polyol" (otherwise called a polyalcohol) is defined here, in a conventional manner in itself, as a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0096] The polyol(s) that may be contained in the cosmetic composition may be natural or synthetic. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0097] In the particular embodiments in which the cosmetic composition contains at least one aqueous emollient, the latter may be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. At least one aqueous emollient, preferably each of the aqueous emollients, contained in the cosmetic composition, is preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, and polyglycitol.

[0098] Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains less than 3% by weight in total of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains in total less than 2% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), more preferably less than 1% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Even with such low concentrations of aqueous emollients, or when it does not contain any aqueous emollient, the cosmetic composition still advantageously exhibits a moisturizing action. The cosmetic composition further does not contain a gelling agent, or it contains a maximum of 1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in total of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] At least one gelling agent, preferably each of the gelling agents, contained in the cosmetic composition, is preferably chosen from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, and Caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any of their mixtures.

[0101] Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.8% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, in total, of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more emulsifiers, advantageously chosen from emulsifying agents capable of forming oil-in-water emulsions. The emulsifying agent(s) may, for example, be chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, the products marketed under the names Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside), potassium cetyl phosphate, glucoside waxes, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® VL 75, lecithins, in particular hydrogenated soy lecithin, glycerol monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium stearoyl glutamate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® SG, sodium stearoyl, sucrose stearate, etc.

[0103] In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifier(s) are present in the cosmetic composition in a total content of 2 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, preferentially 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 6 to 8% by weight, or 2 to 6% by weight, in particular 2 to 5% by weight, for example 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents advantageously make it possible to obtain good stability of the emulsion and good sensoriality.

[0104] The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more consistency factors. This or these consistency factors are then preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, hydrogenated vegetable oils and other waxy bodies. Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains only one consistency factor. The total content of consistency factor(s) in the cosmetic composition is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of volatile silicones (also called volatile silicone oils).

[0106] Volatile silicones are short-chain cyclic polymers with the general formula [Si-(CH3)2-O]n with n=3-7. Generally referred to as cyclomethicone, regardless of the number of units, the most common are cyclotetrasiloxane (n=4) and cyclopentasiloxane (n=5), but cyclotrisiloxane (n=3), cyclohexasiloxane (n=6) and cycloheptasiloxane (n=7) can also be mentioned. Volatile silicones are substances known to be accumulative for the environment and non-biodegradable due to their high stability. Studies have shown that cyclopentasiloxane, for example, has a potential for bioaccumulation in aquatic environments (Gobas et al., 2015, Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry, 34, 12:2703-2714).

[0107] More generally, the cosmetic composition is preferably free of volatile ingredients. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile ingredients" means non-alcoholic organic or inorganic compounds such as esters, silicones or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C. The term "flash point" (denoted PE) is conventionally understood to mean the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in sufficient concentration to form a gaseous mixture with the ambient air which ignites upon contact with a flame or a hot spot, but insufficient for combustion to propagate by itself in the absence of the so-called pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labeling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance having a PE such as 23°C < PE < 60°C belongs to category 3 "low flammability".

[0108] Thus, the cosmetic composition is in particular preferably free of volatile esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and / or volatile alkanes, such as isohexadecane.

[0109] The cosmetic composition may contain one or more monoalcohols. However, it is preferably free of monoalcohols.

[0110] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition is also free of essential oils. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, a source of irritation and skin intolerance. Colorants with the same characteristics are also preferably avoided for similar reasons.

[0111] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0112] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of microplastics. The term "microplastic" within the meaning of the present invention designates microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the draft amendment to Annex XVII of REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, D083921 / 01 of September 5, 2022 ("COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) ... / ... of XXX amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards synthetic polymer microparticles" accessible in particular at the URL address: https: / / ec.europa.eu / transparency / comitology-register / screen / documents / 083921 / 1 / consult?lang=en).According to this document, microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, are defined as polymers that are solid and either are contained in particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of those particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, where at least 1% by weight of those particles meet one of the following conditions: (a) all particle dimensions are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length to diameter ratio is greater than 3. The following polymers are excluded from this designation:.

[0113] (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances;

[0114] (b) polymers which are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex [X] of the document;

[0115] (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex [Y] of the document (solubility test in water at pH 7 with stirring for 24 h at 20 °C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals);

[0116] (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure.

[0117] Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0118] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with synthetic solid organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0119] Thus, in particular, the cosmetic composition is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art.

[0120] It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0121] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular chosen from the group consisting of (INCI names):

[0122] - Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,

[0123] - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer,

[0124] - Sodium Polyacrylate,

[0125] - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer,

[0126] - Acrylates Copolymer, - Polyacrylate-13,

[0127] - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer,

[0128] - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,

[0129] - Polyacrylamide,

[0130] - VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, used alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0131] The cosmetic composition may further contain any conventional cosmetically compatible additive or excipient in itself, such as a care agent, a preservative, a perfume, a coloring agent, etc.

[0132] The cosmetic composition may be presented in any conventional form in itself, this form being suitable for topical application to the skin and mucous membranes. It may in particular, but not limited to, be presented in the form of a fluid emulsion, a rich emulsion, a cream, a milk, an ointment or a balm.

[0133] In particular, it can be of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, or of soft or semi-solid consistency, or of the micro-emulsion type. Advantageously, the variation in the proportion of its ingredients makes it possible to obtain very different viscosities and fluidities, as desired.

[0134] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition in which the mattifying combination according to the invention is integrated has a dynamic viscosity at 25°C + / - 2°C of less than 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 700 and 5000 mPa.s, and for example between 1500 and 4000 mPa.s. This viscosity can for example be measured using a Brookfield viscometer by applying the following parameters: spindle 5, speed 100 rpm, for 1 minute.

[0135] The cosmetic composition in which the mattifying combination according to the invention is integrated may be intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or body. It may, for example, be in the form of a protective, treatment or care cream or balm for the face, for the hands and / or for the body, or a protective, treatment or care body milk. It may, for example, be of the sprayable type, in particular to constitute a sun product or a lotion. The use of the mattifying combination according to the invention preferably comprises the application of this mattifying combination, and where appropriate of the cosmetic composition in which it is contained, topically to the skin and / or mucous membranes of an individual, in particular of a mammal and preferably of a human.

[0136] The skin to which the mattifying combination, or where appropriate the cosmetic composition, is applied is preferably healthy skin. In particular, it may be so-called combination or oily skin. Thanks to its action on the dullness of the skin, the mattifying combination according to the invention is particularly suitable for the mattifying cosmetic treatment of oily skin.

[0137] The application can also be performed on acne-prone skin. Alternatively, it can be performed on normal or dry skin.

[0138] The application can be repeated as often as necessary, including once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, for a period of several days to several months.

[0139] The use of the mattifying combination is preferably carried out to mattify the skin immediately after application of the mattifying combination, where appropriate the cosmetic composition, to the skin. By immediately, it is meant that the mattifying effect is obtained in less than 5 minutes after application.

[0140] The invention is also expressed in terms of a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the skin of an individual, more particularly for mattifying said skin, this process comprising the application of the mattifying combination as defined above, where appropriate of the cosmetic composition containing such a mattifying combination, topically to the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0141] This process may meet one or more of the characteristics stated above with reference to the cosmetic use of the mattifying combination according to the invention.

[0142] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the implementation examples below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0143] 1 / Example 1 - Study of the mattifying effect of the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract

[0144] The aim of this study is to measure the mattifying effect of the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract using a glossy meter (GL 200 glossy meter probe connected to the MDD4 Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH base).

[0145] The Glossy Meter assesses the skin's surface luster or shine by measuring reflected light. When the probe is placed on the skin, light is projected by the probe and reflected at a 60° angle by a set of mirrors. Both directly reflected light (i.e., luster) and diffuse light are then measured. The device also provides a correction index to reduce the influence of diffuse reflection, which is affected by skin color. This device is therefore particularly suitable for assessing the mattifying effect of a product.

[0146] In this experiment, skin brightness is measured on the forearm: a 6 cm area of ​​skin 2(2 x 3 cm) is delimited on the inner side of the forearm, 0.67 pl of jojoba oil is applied and the skin is massaged for approximately 30 seconds until completely absorbed. A first measurement with a glossy meter is taken (T0, before application of the product). Then 2 pl / cm 2 of product is applied, followed by a one-minute massage (30 seconds of vertical spreading and 30 seconds of horizontal spreading). Then 2 glossy meter measurements are taken, 15 minutes and 2 hours after applying the product. Applying jojoba oil beforehand helps to imitate oily, shiny skin.

[0147] For each product tested, the % change in skin shine following application of the product is calculated according to the equation (a negative % change being representative of a mattifying effect): % change = ((Tfinal - TO) / TO) x 100.

[0148] Two series of experiments are conducted.

[0149] In the first series (Series 1), 2 products are tested (n= 5, for each product):

[0150] - Lens esculenta seed extract (provided by the commercial material p-REFINYL®) alone, at 0.05% by weight in an aqueous composition,

[0151] - combination of the same extract of Lens esculenta seed, at 0.05% by weight, and rice starch (INCI name: Oriza sativa starch), at 4% by weight, in the same aqueous composition.

[0152] For each measurement time, the results obtained in terms of % change in brightness for the Lens esculenta seed extract alone are normalized to 1, and the % decrease compared to this value, obtained for the combination of the Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch, is determined.

[0153] In the second series (Series 2), 2 products are tested (n= 5):

[0154] - rice starch (INCI name: Oriza sativa starch) alone, at 4% by weight in the aqueous composition,

[0155] - combination of the same Lens esculenta seed extract, at 0.05% by weight, and the same rice starch, at 4% by weight, in the same aqueous composition. For each measurement time, the results obtained in terms of % change in brightness for rice starch alone are normalized to 1, and the % decrease compared to this value, obtained for the combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch, is determined.

[0156] The results obtained are summarized in Table 1 below.

[0157] Table 1 - Evaluation of skin shine by glossymeter

[0158] As early as 15 minutes after application of the tested products, a much more marked reduction in skin shine was observed with the combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch recommended by the invention, than for the extract alone and rice starch alone. This effect was doubled 2 hours after application. In addition, 2 hours after application, the following % changes were determined:

[0159] - Series 1: Lens esculenta seed extract alone -11%, combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch in accordance with the invention -23%;

[0160] - Series 2: rice starch alone -4%, combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch in accordance with the invention -17%.

[0161] These results demonstrate that Lens esculenta seed extract (0.05%) alone, like rice starch (4%) alone, have no, or very little, mattifying effect even 2 hours after application. On the other hand, the combination of these two substances in accordance with the invention has a significant mattifying effect, much greater than the sum of the effects of the individual substances, which clearly demonstrates a synergy of action of these two substances.

[0162] 2 / Example 2 - Cosmetic composition containing a combination in accordance with the invention

[0163] A cosmetic composition containing a combination in accordance with the invention, called C1, corresponds to the composition indicated in table 2 below.

[0164] Table 2 - Composition C1 in accordance with the invention

[0165] This composition is notably free of aqueous emollient. It does not contain any substance with a mattifying effect other than the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract with oligosaccharide fraction.

[0166] 3 / Example 3 - Clinical effect of a composition containing an association in accordance with the invention

[0167] A study is carried out on 22 subjects in order to study the evolution of the shine of an area treated with composition C1, comprising the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract with oligosaccharide fraction in accordance with the invention, at the forehead, by a single topical application of 0.1 ml of the composition on the skin.

[0168] Skin gloss measurements are taken using a glossy meter before application (Tini), then immediately after (T0), then 1 h (T1 h), 3 h (T3h) and 6 h (T6h) after application.

[0169] To participate in the study, subjects must have shiny skin on the forehead. The mattifying effect due to the application of composition C1 is calculated relative to an untreated area, still on the forehead, using the equation above (% variation in shine level = ((Tmeasured - Tcontrol area) / Tcontrol area) x 100). Statistics are carried out relative to the untreated area, and versus Tini.

[0170] The results are summarized in Table 3 below. versus untreated and Tini

[0171] These results highlight a mattifying effect immediately after application of the composition according to the invention. This mattifying effect is very important because it is significantly prolonged over time for at least 6 hours after a single application of the composition to the skin. It is entirely attributable to the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract with oligosaccharide fraction.

[0172] 41 Example 4 - Sensory Test

[0173] The aim of this test is to compare the sensory characteristics of composition C1 comprising the combination of a Lens esculenta seed extract and at least one starch according to the invention, with those of a comparative composition (C2) without said combination but comprising silica.

[0174] The evaluation is carried out monadic by 15 volunteers trained in the sensory technique for topical products. Two evaluation phases are carried out: 5 min after, and 15 min after, the application of 0.15 ml of composition on each cheek.

[0175] The tests are carried out in a room where the lighting, temperature and humidity are monitored.

[0176] Comparative composition C2 is a commercially available formula, which contains silica, and contains the following ingredients (INCI names): Aqua (Water), Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dimethicone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Silica, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lauryl PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 Methicone, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrated Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Perfume (Fragrance), Sclerotium Gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid.

[0177] Different criteria are assessed and are detailed in Table 4 below.

[0178] Table 4 - Evaluation criteria

[0179] A computer questionnaire presents unstructured analog measurement scales from 0 to 100, for each of the descriptive criteria of the different phases on the computer screen. The results are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0180] Table 5 - Sensory evaluation of a composition according to the invention C1 and a comparative composition C2

[0181] It should be noted that the sensory analysis results of these two compositions are very close. One of the main criteria objectified in this study is the mattness or absence of shine. The inventors clearly demonstrate that the composition according to the invention C1, comprising the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract with oligosaccharide fraction, meets this objective, since the shine criterion analyzed at 5 or 15 min after application is lower than the score of 15. The comparative composition with silica C2 does not allow a lower shine to be obtained.

[0182] Furthermore, these results demonstrate that the composition according to the invention C1 without silica has very good sensory characteristics, such as very little sticky feeling, no or very few white marks on the skin, with a very low oily appearance. It also does not generate a feeling of tightness (the scores obtained for the “Tension” criterion being notably much lower than those obtained for the comparative composition C2), but, on the contrary, a very good feeling of elasticity of the skin (“Suppleness”).

[0183] 5 / Example 5 - Consumer test

[0184] 68 consumers who are used to using cosmetic products tested the C1 composition for 14 days. The evaluation was carried out on a rating scale from 0 (“I don’t like it at all”) to 10 (“I like it a lot”) or from 0 (“totally disagree”) to 10 (“totally agree”).

[0185] In accordance with ISO 20252, Directives of Commission Regulation (EU) No 655 / 2013 and ASTM E1958 - 16a, the results of such a study provide evidence to support claims about the self-perceived effectiveness of the product and to support claims related to its cosmetic and sensory characteristics. The interpretation thresholds used for this study are shown in Table 6 below (the threshold for a statistically significant value with n=68 is 62%).

[0186] Table 6 - Interpretation thresholds for assessment results

[0187] The results for texture scores at D14 (14 days after application) are as follows:

[0188] - fluid texture: 8.1,

[0189] - light texture: 8.3,

[0190] - non-greasy texture: 8.1,

[0191] - texture with a non-sticky finish: 8.1,

[0192] - texture with a matte finish: 7.0.

[0193] The results relating to the notes concerning the following allegations at D14 are as follows:

[0194] - has an invisible rendering: 8.2,

[0195] - smooths skin texture: 7.7,

[0196] - hydrates my skin: 8.1.

[0197] The results for the scores on the following negative characteristics at D14 are as follows:

[0198] - greasy effect: 2.8,

[0199] - sticky effect: 1.9,

[0200] - irritated skin: 1.5.

[0201] This study highlights the advantages of the texture of composition C1, with a balance achieved between the matt finish and the fluidity of the composition. It is worth noting very favorable results, concerning among other things the light and non-greasy texture. No negative characteristic obtained a high score. In particular, the composition does not present any greasy or sticky effect.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic use of a combination consisting of one or more extract(s) of Lens esculenta seed and one or more rice starch(es), to mattify the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein said rice starch is not modified.

3. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 2, according to which said combination is contained in a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin.

4. Use according to claim 3, according to which said cosmetic composition is free of silica.

5. Use according to claim 3 or 4, according to which the total quantity of starch(s) in said cosmetic composition is between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

6. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 5, according to which the total quantity of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) in said cosmetic composition is between 0.025 and 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

7. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 6, according to which said cosmetic composition also contains at least one sunscreen.

8. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 7, according to which said cosmetic composition is free from volatile silicones and microplastic acrylates.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the application of said combination, where appropriate of said cosmetic composition, topically to the skin.

10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said skin is acne-prone.

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