Aqueous composition comprising a wax, a neutralized c 12-c 20 monoalkyl phosphate, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below: [Chem.1] R1-O-R2 (I) in which R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of one other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R1 representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base that is capable of partially or completely neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32 alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

Description

Aqueous composition comprising a wax, a neutralized C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for and / or making up keratin materials, and is directed towards proposing compositions more particularly intended for making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

[0002] In general, compositions intended for making up keratin fibres, for example the eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and the visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are described as aqueous or cream mascaras when they are formulated in an aqueous base, and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated as a dispersion in an organic solvent medium.

[0003] A great diversity of cosmetic effects may be afforded by applying a mascara to keratin fibres and notably the eyelashes, for instance a volumizing, lengthening, thickening and more particularly charging makeup effect.

[0004] These effects are mostly adjusted through the amount and nature of the particles and most particularly those of the waxes present in the mascaras. In general, mascaras in fact have a significant amount of wax(es) and notably from 10% to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight thereof.

[0005] For obvious reasons, improving mascara textures which determine the manifestation of one or more makeup effects is a constant preoccupation of cosmetic formulators.

[0006] Moreover, the specific effects associated with a particular formulation, for example charging and moreover providing excellent separation of the made-up eyelashes, are expected to be reproduced virtually identically by all the production batches of one and the same formulation.

[0007] In addition, consumer expectations are for a mascara with good wear performance, that is to say a mascara that withstands friction (absence of grains also called "flakes").Prior art

[0008] Aqueous mascaras comprising waxes, an anionic surfactant of stearic acid type, a latex and black iron oxides are known on the market:

[0009] - the commercial product Master Volume Mascara from Annabelle Cosmetics

[0010] (Mintel ID 9953346);

[0011] - the commercial product Volumizing & Curling Effects Mascara from KIKO

[0012] (Mintel ID 10903016);

[0013] - the product Limitless Mascara from EYEKO (Mintel ID 10323020)

[0014] - the product Double Lash Volumizing Mascara + Lash Grow from Emani

[0015] (Mintel ID 8158363)

[0016] In the course of its research, the applicant has found that these compositions were not entirely satisfactory in terms of the mechanical properties of the deposit of the product on keratin fibres, notably the resistance to flaking.

[0017] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to obtain mascara compositions for which the mechanical properties of the deposit of the product on keratin fibres, such as the resistance to flaking, are improved, finely adjustable and reproducible.

[0018] In the course of their research, the inventors have unexpectedly discovered that the objectives as defined previously were achieved by using a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0019] at least one wax, and

[0020] at least one anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type; and

[0021] at least one base that is capable of partially or completely neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and

[0022] at least one liquid polyester obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and

[0023] water; and

[0024] at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and

[0025] at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0026] Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact observed that the formulation comprising at least one wax (1), at least one anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type (2) in a form partially or completely neutralized by a base (3), at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and a diol dimer, water (5), at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase and at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7) made it possible to produce, after application to keratin materials such as the eyelashes, a deposit having good resistance to flaking.

[0027] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.Subjects of the invention

[0028] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0029] at least one wax and

[0030] at least one anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type, and

[0031] at least one base that is capable of partially or completely neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and

[0032] at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and

[0033] water; and

[0034] at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and

[0035] at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0036] A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin, notably the contour of the eyes, the contour of the eyelashes, the contour of the eyebrows; keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and the eyebrows, which consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined previously.Definitions

[0037] In the context of the present invention, "keratin material" is notably understood to mean the skin, notably the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows; keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and the eyebrows. For the purposes of the present invention, this term "keratin fibres" also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0038] "Physiologically acceptable" is understood to mean compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0039] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, a composition as defined previously.

[0040] "Particulate matter" is understood to mean any compound in the form of particles which are insoluble and dispersible in the composition of the invention.Waxes

[0041] The composition(s) according to the invention comprise(s) at least one wax (1).

[0042] This wax (1) makes it possible to obtain thick, charging textures.

[0043] "Wax" is understood to mean a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C, which may be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0044] "Lipophilic compound" is understood to mean a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0045] The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920® by the company TA Instruments.

[0046] The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0047] a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0048] The waxes (1) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0049] The wax(es) (1) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8% to 40% and even better still from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] As wax, use may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax.

[0051] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32fatty chains.

[0052] Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B® by the company Heterene.

[0053] Use may also be made of the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57®, or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73®, by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in the application FRA-2792190.

[0054] Use may also be made of a C20-C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C20-C40alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate of formula (I):

[0055] [Chem 1]

[0056] in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1). Such a tacky wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

[0057] Mention may also be made of fatty alcohol(s), in particular chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C14-C30, preferably C14-C24, and even better still C14-C20, fatty alcohols.

[0058] The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C14-C24fatty alcohols, better still linear and saturated C14-C20fatty alcohols.

[0059] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol (9) is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, and is preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated C14-C30, better still C14-C24, even better still C14-C20, fatty alcohols.

[0060] Preferably, the fatty alcohol (9) according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18) and mixtures thereof (also known as cetearyl alcohol).

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Such a mixture is notably sold under the name Lannette O OR / MB® by the company BASF.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, use will be made of a wax chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of a mixture comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Anionic C12-C20monoalkylphosphate surfactant

[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant (2) of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type, partially or completely neutralized by a base (3).

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic chemical compound, that is to say one which has in its structure two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

[0067] According to a preferential form of the invention, the anionic surfactants of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type (2) in accordance with the invention have an HLB of greater than or equal to 8. The HLB of the anionic surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method.

[0068] "Anionic surfactant" is understood to mean any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type (2) is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferentially from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The designation "monoalkyl" is understood to mean that the phosphate element is linked to a single C12-C20alkyl chain, unless otherwise specified. The monoalkyl phosphate(s) (including phosphine oxide(s)) which can be used in the compositions according to the present application is / are chosen from C14-C20, preferably C16-C18, monoalkyl phosphates and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, they are chosen from monocetyl phosphate, monostearyl phosphate and monocetearyl phosphate.

[0072] In particular, use will be made of the anionic surfactant in its form neutralized by potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate having the INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, for example sold under the names Amphisol K® (DSM Nutritional Products), Amphisol A® (DSM Nutritional Products), Arlatone MAP® (Uniqema), Crodafos MCA® (Croda).Base (3)

[0073] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one base (3). This base may be organic or inorganic.

[0074] According to a first variant, the base (3) is at least one organic base.

[0075] Preferably, the base of organic origin is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also known as tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the base is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

[0077] According to another particular embodiment, the base is an amino acid, in particular arginine.

[0078] "Primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine" is in particular understood to mean a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that "primary" means a primary amine function, i.e. -NH2, and the alkyl group being a linear or branched C1-C8, preferably branched C4, hydrocarbon chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl.

[0079] The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferentially 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also known as aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base of organic origin is aminomethylpropanediol.

[0081] Such an aminomethylpropanediol that is suitable for use in the invention is, for example, AMPD Ultra PC® sold by the company Angus (Dow Corning).

[0082] According to a second variant, the base is at least one inorganic base.

[0083] This inorganic base is chosen from ammonium (NH4+) and alkali metal hydroxides.

[0084] Preferably, the inorganic base is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The amount of base is adjusted so as to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity on the associated fatty acid (2).

[0086] Preferably, the base (3) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid(s) (2) comprising from 14 to fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base (3) is present in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2.0% by weight of base(s), in particular potassium hydroxide (KOH), relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0088] The anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type (2) and the base (3) making up the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of one and the same commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two distinct commercial materials.

[0089] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the monocetyl phosphate anionic surfactant in its form neutralized by potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.Liquid polyester (4)

[0090] As has been indicated previously, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0091] "Liquid polyester" is understood to mean a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at ambient temperature (25°C).

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" is more particularly understood to denote saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined previously.

[0093] It should be noted that the diol dimer may also be other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and / or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material. It is possible to use products having a diol dimer content of greater than 70% by weight, but it is preferred to use a diol dimer of high purity, such as a compound having a diol dimer content of greater than 90% by weight.

[0094] Thus, a diol dimer may be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, notably a C16to C32fatty acid, such as those mentioned previously, notably a C16to C22fatty acid and more particularly a C18fatty acid.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the diol dimer is derived from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of dilinoleic diacid.

[0096] More particularly, it is the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acid functions. The diol dimer may be in the saturated form, i.e. not including any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are totally or partially hydrogenated, after esterification reaction of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer. The hydrogenated forms, notably the totally hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

[0097] In the context of the present invention, "unsaturated fatty acid" denotes fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bonds).

[0098] As representatives of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may notably be made of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0099] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, notably a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably a C16-C22fatty acid and more particularly a C18fatty acid.

[0100] Advantageously, the liquid polyester (4) used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by total or partial, advantageously total, hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds.

[0101] It may also be obtained from a mixture containing same. In such a case, it is preferred to use a mixture in which the content of this diacid dimer is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferentially greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0102] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferentially between 1200 and 1800 g / mol.

[0103] More particularly, the polyesters (4) have a viscosity of between 3000 and 400 000 mm2 / s (cSt) at 40°C.

[0104] As illustrations of esters that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the following products (INCI name): Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, notably sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5®and DD-DA7®.

[0105] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of liquid polyester(s) as defined previously, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) at a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Water (5)

[0107] A composition according to the invention comprises water (5).

[0108] "Aqueous phase" is understood to mean a phase comprising water and also optionally all the solvents and ingredients that are water-soluble or water-miscible (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0109] The aqueous phase may contain a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or a spring water.

[0110] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of from 50% to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.Film-forming polymer (6) in aqueous suspension

[0111] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0112] In the present application, "film-forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature of 20°C.

[0113] Said solid particles of film-forming polymer (6) can either be used as is and are in suspension in the aqueous phase of the composition or can be used in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudolatex).

[0114] Such a film-forming polymer (6) present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion is generally named (pseudo)latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. Techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0115] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of particle, these particles possibly varying as regards their size, their structure and / or their chemical nature.

[0116] The film-forming polymer(s) (6) may be present in a solids content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] These solid particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

[0118] In the present invention, "aqueous" is understood to mean a liquid medium based on water and / or on hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium may be constituted essentially of water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible organic solvent(s) (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C3-C4ketones or C2-C4aldehydes.

[0119] Among the film-forming polymers (6) which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers may be statistical polymers, block copolymers of A-B type, of A-B-A or ABCD multiblock type, or even grafted polymers.Free-radical film-forming polymer

[0120] "Free-radical polymer" is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0121] The film-forming polymers (6) of free-radical type may notably be acrylic and / or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

[0122] The vinyl film-forming polymers (6) may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or of esters of these acid monomers and / or of the amides of these acid monomers.

[0123] As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer bearing an acid group, use may be made of α,β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. Use is made in particular of (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more particularly of (meth)acrylic acid.

[0124] The esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), notably (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a C1-C20, more particularly C1-C8, alkyl, (meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C6-C10 aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0125] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

[0126] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0127] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0128] The (meth)acrylic acid esters are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0129] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.

[0130] As amides of the acid monomers, mention may for example be made of (meth)acrylamides, and notably N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular N-(C2-C12alkyl)(meth)acrylamides. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide and N-t-octylacrylamide.

[0131] The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and / or esters thereof and / or amides thereof, such as those mentioned previously.

[0132] As examples of vinyl esters, mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.

[0133] As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and α-methylstyrene.

[0134] The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art included in the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

[0135] Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from the free-radical polymerization of one or more free-radical monomers inside and / or partially at the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally known as "hybrid polymers".Polycondensate

[0136] As film-forming polymer (6) of polycondensate type, mention may be made of polyurethanes which are anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea copolymer comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one block chosen from:

[0138] - a block of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or

[0139] - a branched or unbranched silicone block, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or

[0140] - a block comprising fluoro groups.

[0141] The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens, which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a difunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or alternatively a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0142] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyesteramides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxyester resins.

[0143] The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, notably diols.

[0144] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. As examples of such acids, mention may be made of: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, the ones chosen in particular are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.

[0145] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Use is made in particular of a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol or 4-butanediol. As other polyols, use may be made of glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane.

[0146] The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, use may be made of ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, use may be made of monoethanolamine.

[0147] As particular form of polycondensate film-forming polymer, use will be made of a polyester-polyurethane in aqueous dispersion having the INCI name: Polyurethane-35, such as the commercial product Baycusan C 1010 / 1®, and / or that having the INCI name: Polyurethane-48, such as the commercial product Baycusan C 1008 / 1®, which are sold by the company Covestro.Polymer of natural origin

[0148] Use may be made, in the present invention, of optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, water-insoluble cellulose-based polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters, including in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters, such as those described in the patent application US2003 / 185774, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers, dispersions of particles of core-shell type, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Various types of aqueous dispersions, notably commercial aqueous dispersions, which are suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention, are described in detail below.

[0151] 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

[0152] The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and notably a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. As styrene monomer which can be used in the invention, mention may for example be made of styrene or α-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

[0153] The C1-C18alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C1-C18alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

[0154] As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, use may be made according to the invention of:

[0155] - the aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer which are sold under the names Acronal DS-6250® by the company BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 8211® by the company BASF, Daitosol 5000 AD®, Epitex 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 AD® (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer) by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo; Syntran 5760 CG® (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by the company Interpolymer.

[0156] 2 / According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of particles of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane which is in particular anionic.

[0157] The anionic nature of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups bearing a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

[0158] The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally sold in the form of aqueous dispersions.

[0159] The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from approximately 20% to approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0160] Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in the aqueous varnishes according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that sold under the name Avalure UR 405® by the company Noveon.

[0161] Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the name Avalure UR 450® by the company Noveon, and under the name NeoRez R 970® by the company DSM, Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: Polyurethane-35) such as the commercial product sold under the name Baycusan C 1010 / 1®, and Baycusan C 1008 / 1® (INCI name: Polyurethane-48 (and) Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol), which are sold by the company Covestro.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

[0163] For example, use may be made of a mixture consisting of the dispersion sold under the name Sancure 861® or a mixture of the dispersion sold under the name Avalure UR 405® and of the dispersion sold under the name Avalure UR 450®, these dispersions being sold by the company Noveon.

[0164] As other examples of film-forming polymers in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of:

[0165] - the polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from the acids as described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for instance those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179® and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant® by the company Dow Corning; the sequential copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under l M 5960®).

[0166] As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, use may more preferentially be made of:

[0167] - aqueous acrylic polymer dispersions sold under the namesAcronal DS-6250® by the company BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 8211® by the company BASF, Daitosol 5000 AD® (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 SJ®, EPITEX 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer) by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo, Acudyne 5600P® and Acudyne 5800P® by the company Dow Chemical (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer);

[0168] - aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names NeoRez R-981® and NeoRez R-974® by the company DSM, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR 445® or Avalure UR 450® by the company Noveon, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer, Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: Polyurethane-35) such as the commercial product sold under the name Baycusan C 1010 / 1®, and Baycusan C 1008 / 1® (INCI name: Polyurethane-48 (and) Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol) which are sold by the company Covestro.

[0169] - sulfopolyesters, such as those sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products,

[0170] - vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM®, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as Vinybran® from the company Nisshin Chemical or the products sold by the company Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer such as Styleze W® from ISP,

[0171] - aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer such as the products sold under the references Hybridur® by the company Air Products or Duromer® from National Starch,

[0172] - mixtures thereof.

[0173] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (6).

[0174] According to a particular form, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6) having the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer such as the commercial product sold under the name Daitosol 5000 AD® by the company Daito.Water-soluble liquid polyol (7)

[0175] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7).

[0176] "Water-soluble liquid polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH), which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and water-miscible (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0177] Among the water-soluble polyols (7), mention may be made of compounds constituted of a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least two OH functions. The alkyl chain preferably comprises from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 16, more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0178] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and glycerol (glycerine); polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] According to a preferential form of the invention, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is chosen from 1,3-butylene glycol having the INCI name: Butylene Glycol, pentylene glycol or 1,2-pentanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Preferentially, the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) is (are) present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% and more preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Other components

[0181] In addition to the above-mentioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course comprise additional ingredients.Fillers (8)

[0182] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler (8), of organic or mineral nature, which makes it possible in particular to confer on them additional properties of improved stability, persistence, coverage and / or mattness.

[0183] "Filler" should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, make it possible to confer body or rigidity on the composition and / or softness and uniformity on the makeup.

[0184] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0185] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and the compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0186] As examples of mineral fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, or hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0187] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of powders of polyamide (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), of polyethylene, of polymethyl methacrylate, of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200® (Chemdal Corporation), or powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, notably with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in the patent US5538793. It may also be cellulose powder, such as the product sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.Liquid fatty phase (9)

[0188] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a liquid fatty phase (9).

[0189] Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), non-aqueous and water-immiscible.

[0190] The liquid fatty phase (9) may contain a non-volatile oil notably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0191] "Hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0192] "Non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0193] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5.0% by weight, more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of volatile oils.

[0194] For the purposes of the invention, "volatile oil" is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.Hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (10)

[0195] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10).

[0196] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrophilic polymer" is understood to mean a water-soluble polymer.

[0197] For the purposes of the present invention, "water-soluble polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, gives a macroscopically homogeneous solution of which the light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, "film-forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better still a deposit of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and can be manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a nonstick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0199] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from:

[0200] - proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;

[0201] - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

[0202] - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

[0203] - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

[0204] - vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

[0205] - polyesters, notably anionic polyester and / or polyesteramide polymers, notably water-dispersible, comprising monomers bearing a function: -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+or a metal ion, such as for example an Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+or Fe3+ion. Mention may be made in particular of the polymers described in the documents US-3,734,874; US-4,233,196; US-4,304,901. Advantageously, what are chosen are film-forming polyester polymers based on at least one dicarboxylic acid, at least one diol and at least one difunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing an -SO3M group as described above;

[0206] - fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxyester resins;

[0207] - polyurethane polymers, notably polyurethanes which are anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes;

[0208] - optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:

[0209] . gums arabic such as that extracted from Acacia senegal having the INCI name Acacia Senegal Gum, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;

[0210] . alginates and carrageenans;

[0211] . glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

[0212] . shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;

[0213] . deoxyribonucleic acid;

[0214] . mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfates; and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to a preferential form of the invention, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) is chosen from hydroxyalkyl celluloses, in particular a hydroxyethyl cellulose such as the commercial product Cellosize HEC QP-4400H Europe PCG® sold by the company Dow, gum arabics, in particular that extracted from Acacia senegal having the INCI name: Acacia Senegal Gum, such as the commercial products having the name Spray Dried Gum Acacia 396A® from the company Alland & Robert and Spraygum SC10® from the company Nexira; and mixtures thereof.

[0216] According to a particular form of the invention, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) is chosen from a hydroxyethyl cellulose, a gum arabic extracted from Acacia senegal having the INCI name: Acacia Senegal Gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0217] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention contains a mixture of hydroxyethyl cellulose and of a gum arabic extracted from Acacia senegal having the INCI name: Acacia Senegal Gum.

[0218] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (10) relative to the total weight of the composition.h) Cosmetic active agents (11)

[0219] As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0220] These additives (11) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% of the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional additives and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.i) Dyestuff (12)

[0222] A composition according to the invention, and notably those intended for makeup, generally comprises at least one dyestuff (12) such as pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes or water-soluble dyes.

[0223] The pulverulent dyestuffs (12) may be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0224] The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and / or organic, and coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

[0225] The pearlescent agents may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0226] For the purposes of the invention, "water-soluble dyestuff" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.

[0227] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33, D&C Red 40, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 5, D&C Yellow 6, D&C Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, D&C Green 5, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0228] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent dyestuff (12), preferably of pigment type, in particular metal oxides, notably titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; and more preferentially iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0229] Preferably, said dyestuff (12) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] The composition may be manufactured via the known processes generally used in the cosmetics field.

[0231] The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, notably for keratin fibres, or base coat, a composition to be applied onto makeup, also known as topcoat, or else a composition for treating keratin fibres.

[0232] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, a product for the eyebrows or a product for the contour of the eyes such as an eyeliner, and more particularly a mascara.

[0233] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0234] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0235] The present invention also relates to an assembly or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:

[0236] - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously,

[0237] - an applicator for said composition.

[0238] Said applicator may be integrally attached to a gripping member forming a cap for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing aperture of the device for packaging said composition.

[0239] An assembly for coating keratin fibres suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured for applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition.Applicator

[0240] The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, notably in the form of teeth, bristles, spikes or other reliefs.

[0241] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.

[0242] The applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden with the composition.

[0243] The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.

[0244] The comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of a plastic.

[0245] In certain exemplary embodiments, the application member is mounted at the end of a wand, which wand may be flexible, which may contribute to improving the comfort during application.Packaging device

[0246] The packaging device comprises a container intended for housing the composition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then be withdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

[0247] This applicator may be firmly attached to a member for closing the container. This closing member may form a member for gripping the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means, such as by screwing, click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversibly house said applicator.

[0248] This container may be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable for removing surplus product taken up by the applicator.

[0249] A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:

[0250] - forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows,

[0251] - leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, it being possible for the deposit to dry.

[0252] It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicator may form a product container. In such a case, a container may, for example, be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the application members in relief.

[0253] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator and the packaging device to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

[0254] The expressions "of between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0255] In the description and the examples, the percentages are weight percentages, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions that are readily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0256] The invention will now be described by means of examples which are present for purely illustrative purposes and should not be interpreted as examples that limit the invention.

[0257] Mascara examples: Example 1 according to the invention and Examples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d (outside the invention)

[0258] Ingredients (INCI name)Ex. 1according to the invention with the polyesterDimerDilinoleylDimerDilinoleateEx 1aoutside the inventionwithout liquid polyester (4)Ex 1boutside the inventionwithout water-soluble polyol (7)Ex 1coutside the inventionwith the polyesterDilinoleicAcid / Butanediol CopolymerEx 1doutside the inventionwith the polyester Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2Ex 1eoutside the inventionwithout potassiumcetylphosphate replaced by neutralized stearic acidCopernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Waxwax (1)3.503.503.503.503.503.50Beeswaxwax (1)4.404.404.404.404.404.40Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Waxwax (1)11.1111.1111.1111.1111.1111.11Hydrogenated Jojoba Oilwax (1)0.250.250.250.250.250.25Hydrogenated Palm Oilwax (1)0.250.250.250.250.250.25Cetyl Alcohol(Alkonat 1698® – Oxiteno)wax (1)2.002.002.002.002.002.00Acrylates Copolymer(Daitosol 5000 AD® – Daito)film-forming polymer in aqueous suspension (6)10.0010.0010.0010.0010.0010.00Iron oxides / CI 77499(Sunpuro Black Iron Oxide C33-7001® from Sun)dyestuff (16)10.0010.0010.0010.0010.0010.00Acacia Senegal Gum(Spray Dried Gum Acacia 396A – Alland & Robert)hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10)0.630.630.630.630.630.63HydroxyethylCellulose(Cellosize HEC QP-4400H Europe PCG® – Dow)hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10)0.750.750.750.750.750.75Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate(Lusplan DD-DA7® – Nippon Fine Chemical)liquid polyester (4)2.00-2.00--2.00Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer(Viscoplast 14436 H – Biosynthis)---2.00--Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2(Softisan 649® – Cremer Oleo)----2.00Potassium Cetyl Phosphate(Amphisol K – DSM Nutritional Products)Surfactant (2) + base (3)7.007.007.007.007.00-Stearic Acid(Edenor ST 05 MY – Emery Oleochemicals)Surfactant (2)-----5.25Aminomethyl Propanediol (AMPD Ultra PC, Neutralizing Amine – ANGUS (Advancion))base (3)-----1.75Preservatives2.752.752.752.752.752.75Butylene glycolwater-soluble polyol (7)2.002.00-2.002.002.00Water (5)qs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100Example preparation protocol

[0259] The compositions were prepared in a Maxilab Olsa® jacketed tank as follows (on 3 kg). At ambient temperature (25°C), all the ingredients except for the Acrylates Copolymer were introduced into the tank. The mixture was heated to about 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was performed for 15 minutes with turbine / paddle / scraper stirring (speed 3000 / 30 / 42 rpm). The juice was gradually cooled to 60°C with paddle / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / minute. The acrylate copolymer was then added and the mixture cooled to 35°C with paddle / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / min, gradually deaerating the formula by means of vacuum before emptying at 35°C.

[0260] After the formulas had been packaged in a mascara applicator, they were evaluated using a friction resistance test carried out according to the protocol described below.

[0261] The formulas were deposited on false eyelashes (test specimen of hair) by 3 times ten strokes with 2 min of drying in between. The test specimens were then left to dry for 1 hour on a plate thermostatically controlled at 33°C. Over a white sheet, 30 strokes were applied to the false eyelashes via the Kéracil® mascara brush from Lancôme. The amount of residue (flakes) deposited on the sheet was evaluated via a chart defining a score of 0 to 6 (0 no residues, 6 very large amount of residues). It should be noted that a significant difference can be observed when the difference is greater than or equal to 1. The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0262] Ex. 1according to the invention with the polyesterDimerDilinoleylDimerDilinoleate / PolyolEx 1aoutside the inventionwithout liquid polyester (4)Ex 1boutside the inventionwithout water-soluble polyol (7)Ex 1coutside the inventionwith the polyesterDilinoleicAcid / Butanediol CopolymerEx 1doutside the inventionwith the polyester Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2Ex 1eoutside the inventionwithout potassiumcetylphosphate replaced by neutralized stearic acidFLAKE score154554

[0263] The results showed that Example 1 according to the invention containing the Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate liquid polyester combined with the polyol and the neutralized C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate surfactant (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) gives a better resistance to friction in comparison with Counterexamples 1a, 1b, 1c, 1d and 1e outside the invention.

Claims

Composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:(1) at least one wax and(2) at least one anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type, and(3) at least one base that is capable of partially or completely neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and(4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and(5) water; and(6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and(7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the wax(es) (1) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8% to 40% and even better still from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the wax(es) (1) is (are) chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture containing beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferentially from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant of C12-C20monoalkyl phosphate type is monocetyl phosphate in its form neutralized by potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid polyester (4) is that having the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid polyester (4) is present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.5% to 10% and more preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content from 50% to 60% by weight of water (5), relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the film-forming polymer(s) (6) in the form of particles in suspension in water are present in a solids content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming acrylic polymer (6), in particular having the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is 1,3-butylene glycol having the INCI name: Butylene Glycol.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) are present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% and more preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler (8).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol (9); preferably chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30fatty alcohols; better still chosen from linear and saturated C14-C24fatty alcohols; more particularly chosen from linear and saturated C14-C20fatty alcohols; even better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10), in particular chosen from hydroxyalkyl celluloses, gum arabics, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from a hydroxyethyl cellulose, an Acacia senegal extract having the INCI name: Acacia Senegal Gum; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a liquid fatty phase (11), preferably comprising at least one non-volatile oil notably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.Composition according to Claim 17, comprising less than 5.0% by weight, more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of volatile oil.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10), preferably chosen from hydroxyalkyl celluloses, gums arabic and mixtures thereof, and more particularly a mixture comprising a hydroxyethyl cellulose and a gum arabic extracted from Acacia senegal having the INCI name Acacia Senegal Gum.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, a product for the eyebrows or a product for the contour of the eyes such as an eyeliner.Assembly or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:- a packaging device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 20;- an applicator for said composition.Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 20.

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