Lightweight elastic fabric
By using two-component ultra-fine curly long fibers in lightweight fabrics to form a three-dimensional spiral fine curly structure, the problems of elasticity, tear strength, dimensional stability and insufficient fluff resistance of existing lightweight fabrics are solved, and lightweight elastic fabrics with high fluff resistance and skinnyness are achieved, which are especially suitable for use in down jackets and other clothing.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2025/078384
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-02-23
- Filing Date
- 2025-02-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-28
AI Technical Summary
The existing lightweight fabrics have insufficient elasticity, tear strength, dimensional stability and velvet resistance, and lack of skin and peach skin velvet feel.
Two-component ultrafine curled long fibers are used as weft yarns, with a single filament fiber of 0.10 to 0.25dtex, a buckling height of 70 to 150 μm, a curling number of 120 to 240 pieces/cm, and an intrinsic viscosity ratio between component A and component B is 1.5 to 3.5, forming a three-dimensional three-dimensional spiral fine curled structure. Combined with heat treatment and specific processing technology, excellent anti-foil properties and tear strength are formed.
It realizes the high elasticity, tear strength, dimensional stability and velvet resistance of lightweight fabrics, and has a good peach skin velvet feel and skinny feeling, which is suitable for down jackets and other clothing.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2025078384-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2025078384-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2025078384-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
Lightweight stretch fabric Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to a fabric, in particular to a lightweight elastic fabric with good tearing strength, good bone feel and peach skin feel. Background Art
[0002] Lightweight fabrics are popular among consumers due to their comfort, but consumers also have higher requirements for lightweight fabrics. To this end, people have made a lot of exploration and efforts.
[0003] For example, patent document WO2020 / 048473A discloses a fabric composed of at least one blended yarn containing multiple microfibers with diameters less than 7 μm. The blended yarn contains at least one filament A and one filament B with a length difference of more than 5%. The filaments A and B are the island components of the sea-island composite fiber after the sea is removed. The island components are two different polyester fiber-forming polymers, one of which is ordinary polyethylene terephthalate and the other is ordinary polypropylene terephthalate (PTT) or ordinary polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). Although the fabric feels fluffy and soft, its elasticity needs to be further improved.
[0004] For example, the patent document Japanese Patent Application No. 2020-105647 discloses a fabric. When weaving this fabric, the warp and weft yarns are both made of sea-island polyester filaments (the island component is a parallel two-component polyester, and the sea component is an alkali-soluble polyester). After de-sealing treatment and other processing, a fabric is obtained in which the warp and weft yarns are both parallel two-component ultra-fine polyester fibers (single yarn fineness 0.12 dtex). This fabric has low air permeability, good down-proof properties, and is also elastic. However, the fabric has problems such as poor softness, poor tear strength, and poor dimensional stability, which need to be improved. Summary of the Invention
[0005] The object of the present invention is to provide a lightweight elastic fabric with good tearing strength, good bone feel and peach skin feel.
[0006] Another object of the present invention is to provide a lightweight elastic fabric with high water release and high down proof properties, excellent tear strength and dimensional stability, and a peach skin feel.
[0007] The technical solutions of the present invention are as follows:
[0008] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention contains bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers only in the weft yarn, the monofilament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 0.10 to 0.25 dtex, the buckling height is 70 to 150 μm, the number of crimps is 120 to 240 per centimeter, and the total content of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers in the fabric is 20 to 60 weight percent.
[0009] Preferably, the two components in the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers are component A and component B, both component A and component B are polyester fiber-forming polymers, and the intrinsic viscosity ratio of component A to component B is 1.5 to 3.5.
[0010] Preferably, the warp yarns of the lightweight elastic fabric are ordinary filaments, and the ratio of the ordinary filaments to the monofilament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 1.5 to 8.0.
[0011] Preferably, the warp yarn of the lightweight elastic fabric is ordinary staple yarn, and the ratio of the count of the ordinary staple yarn to the single filament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber is 150-800.
[0012] Preferably, the porosity of the fabric is 0.1-0.6%.
[0013] Preferably, the weft direction elastic elongation of the fabric is 10% to 30%.
[0014] The fabric of the present invention contains two-component ultrafine curly long fibers, which have a three-dimensional spiral micro-curl structure. The bends on these curly structures adhere to each other to form a large number of tiny pores, so that the fabric has excellent water-releasing and down-proof properties, and feels soft, delicate and fluffy. It does not require raising processing to form a peach skin feel. Moreover, the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers are only in the weft direction of the fabric, so the fabric has good tearing strength, excellent dimensional stability, and a bony feel, and is particularly suitable for the production of down jackets and other clothing. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0015] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention contains bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers only in the weft yarn. The bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers have a small single filament fineness, a three-dimensional spiral curly structure, and good elastic elongation. The fabric of the present invention is lightweight and elastic, and has both a bony feel and a peach skin feel (fine peach fuzz feel, delicate and soft). Preferably, the content of bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers in the weft yarn accounts for 40 to 100 weight% of the total weft yarn, and more preferably accounts for 50 to 100 weight% of the total weft yarn. If the content of bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers accounts for less than 40 weight% of the total weft yarn, the content of the fibers in the weft yarn is low, the peach skin feel of the fabric is poor, and the elasticity is low. The remaining fibers contained in the weft yarn are chemical fibers such as polyesters and polyamides, or natural fibers such as cotton, viscose, and linen.
[0016] While achieving the lightweight, elastic, and peach-skin-like effects of the present invention by including bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers in the warp yarns results in poor dimensional stability and inferior quality. Furthermore, elastic fabrics are difficult to produce, prone to yarn breakage during weaving, and difficult to control tension during finishing. Warp-direction stretching can also reduce the peach-skin effect of the fabric.
[0017] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention comprises bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers in the weft yarn, which exhibit a three-dimensional spiral curly structure. The bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers are derived from a bicomponent ultrafine long fiber raw material, wherein the bicomponents are two different polyester fiber-forming polymers, present in a parallel or eccentric configuration. When the bicomponent ultrafine long fibers are made into a grey fabric, the differential shrinkage between the two polymers during heat treatment forms a three-dimensional spiral curly structure, imparting a fluffy effect to the fabric and a delicate, peach-skin-like feel.
[0018] In the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention, the monofilament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 0.10 to 0.25 dtex. Within this range, the fabric is not only lightweight and soft, with a peach-skin feel, but also has good down-proof properties and excellent tear strength. If the monofilament fineness is greater than 0.25 dtex, the buckling per unit length decreases, the number of dense and fine curls produced thereby decreases, the contact area between the yarn and the skin increases, the peach-skin feel is very poor, and the gaps between the fibers become larger. When used as a down jacket fabric, the down easily leaks through the gaps between the fibers, resulting in a deterioration in the down-proof properties of the fabric. If the monofilament fineness is less than 0.1 dtex, the monofilament fineness is too small, the fiber's breaking strength is poor, the weaving passability is low, and the fabric's tear strength is also poor. In the present invention, the monofilament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is preferably 0.10 to 0.15 dtex.
[0019] In the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention, the buckling height of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber monofilament is 70 to 150 μm, and the number of crimps of the monofilament is 120 to 240 per cm. The lower the buckling height of the crimp structure and the smaller the number, the yarn will be too flat, and the fabric will lack the peach skin feel and elasticity; while if the buckling height is too high, the gaps between the fibers will become larger, but the anti-down property will deteriorate. If the number of crimps is too high and the gaps between the fibers become smaller, the fabric will tend to become dense and thick, with an overly rough feel and a poor peach skin feel. The bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber has a three-dimensional spiral crimp structure. The higher the buckling height of the crimp structure and the greater the number, the fluffier the fabric and the better the elasticity.
[0020] In the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention, the content of bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers accounts for 20 to 60% by weight of the total fabric content. Within this range, the fabric is not only soft and delicate, with a peach-skin feel, but also has excellent elasticity and down-proof properties. If the content is less than 20% by weight, on the one hand, the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction is weakened, and it is difficult to achieve a high weft density in the fabric. On the other hand, the overall content of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is reduced, and it is impossible to achieve a delicate feel, peach-skin feel, and high down-proof properties. If the content is greater than 60% by weight, the content of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is too high, and the tear strength and bone feel of the fabric are reduced.
[0021] Preferably, in the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention, the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers comprise component A and component B, both of which are polyester fiber-forming polymers. Examples include one or more of composite fibers of polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate (PTT / PET), composite fibers of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT / PET), and composite fibers of two polyethylene terephthalates with different viscosities (high-viscosity PET / low-viscosity PET). Composite fibers of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT / PET) are preferred. The fiber form is not particularly limited and may be fully drawn yarn (FDY) or false twisted yarn (DTY).
[0022] Preferably, in the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity ratio of component A to component B in the bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers is 1.5 to 3.5. Due to the viscosity difference between components A and B, there is a significant differential shrinkage during heat treatment, resulting in a three-dimensional, spiral, micro-crimped structure that exhibits a lotus effect and excellent water resistance. The interlocking crimps within these crimped structures form numerous micropores, resulting in excellent water release and down resistance, as well as a soft, fine, and fluffy feel, creating a peach-skin feel without the need for a napping process. When the intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components is less than 1.5, fiber shrinkage decreases, resulting in a lower and fewer crimp height, a flatter fiber, and a fabric with a tendency to have lower elasticity. When the ratio is greater than 3.5, the crimp height increases and the number of crimps increases, reducing the peach-skin feel and down resistance, and also impairing pilling resistance.
[0023] The form of the warp yarn used in the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited and can be ordinary filament or ordinary staple yarn. The ordinary filament here refers to the filament multifilament commonly understood in the art. Examples of ordinary filaments include polyester filament, nylon filament, etc. When ordinary filament is used, polyester filament, such as PET DTY and PET FDY, is preferably used in consideration of issues such as dyeing homochromaticity. The ordinary staple yarn here refers to the yarn obtained by spinning short fibers commonly understood in the art. Examples of staple fibers include natural staple fibers such as cotton staple fibers and wool staple fibers, and chemical staple fibers such as polyester staple fibers, acrylic staple fibers, viscose staple fibers, and nylon staple fibers. When staple yarn is used, cotton-containing staple yarn is preferred.
[0024] Preferably, when the warp yarns are conventional filaments, the ratio between the single-filament fineness of the conventional filaments and the single-filament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 1.5 to 8.0. This ratio is crucial for achieving good tear strength and a velvety feel in the fabric. When the ratio is less than 1.5, the warp yarn fineness is too low, making yarn breakage and fuzzing more likely to occur during the weaving process. This reduces the fabric's weavability, tear strength, and texture. Furthermore, because the warp yarn fineness is too fine to support the weft yarn, the buckling height of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers in the weft yarn decreases, resulting in a corresponding decrease in the fabric's velvety feel. When the ratio is greater than 8.0, the warp yarn fineness is too high, reducing the fabric's velvety feel and fluffiness.
[0025] Preferably, when the warp yarn is ordinary staple yarn, the ratio between the count of the ordinary staple yarn and the single filament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber is 150 to 800. This ratio is very important for obtaining good tear strength and peach skin feel of the fabric. When the ratio is less than 150, the count of the warp staple yarn is too small, and the peach skin feel and fluffiness of the fabric tend to decrease. At the same time, the excessive thickness of the warp yarn increases the constraint on the weft yarn, and the elasticity of the fabric tends to decrease. When the ratio is greater than 800, the count of the warp staple yarn is too large, and yarn breakage and pilling are likely to occur during the weaving process, and the tear strength and weaving properties of the fabric tend to decrease.
[0026] Preferably, the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention has a porosity of 0.1-0.6%. The bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers of the present invention have a three-dimensional spiral crimp structure. The crimps within these crimp structures adhere to each other, forming a large number of micropores and achieving a high density in the fabric. The lower the porosity, the tighter the fabric, tending to improve both down-proofing and tear resistance. When the porosity exceeds 0.6%, the down-proofing properties of the fabric deteriorate. When the porosity is below 0.1%, the fabric becomes too tight, and the peach-skin feel tends to deteriorate.
[0027] Preferably, the lightweight, elastic fabric of the present invention has a weft-direction elastic elongation between 10% and 30%. Within this range, the fabric exhibits both good elasticity and down-proof properties. This is because the bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers of the present invention are capable of forming a large number of crimps. Due to the excellent bulkiness of this fine crimp structure and the small interstices between the yarns, the interstices do not significantly increase when the fabric is stretched by external forces, resulting in excellent down-proof properties.
[0028] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and is preferably a plain weave and its variations (such as weft-heavy plain weave, basket weave), twill weave, or other weaves with many interweaving points. The fabric has high tightness and good down-proof properties.
[0029] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention preferably has a cover factor of 2000 to 3500. If the cover factor is less than 2000, the fabric's tightness is too low, resulting in reduced down resistance, seam slippage, and decreased tear strength. If the cover factor is greater than 3500, the fabric's peach-skin feel tends to deteriorate, and weaving performance is low.
[0030] The lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention is woven from latently crimped fibers as weft yarns to form a grey fabric. The resulting grey fabric undergoes scouring, weight reduction (as needed), relaxation, intermediate shaping, dyeing, resin treatment, final shaping, and calendering to produce the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The latently crimped fibers can be sea-island composite fibers or direct-spun bicomponent ultrafine fibers.
[0031] When the latent crimped fiber is a sea-island composite fiber, the structure of the sea-island composite fiber is as follows: an alkali-soluble polyester fiber-forming polymer (alkali-soluble PET) forms the sea component, and components A and B are compounded in a parallel or eccentric manner to form the island component. During the weight reduction process (sea removal) of the grey fabric, the sea component in the sea-island composite fiber is dissolved, leaving the island component, forming a bicomponent ultrafine long fiber. After further heat treatment, the bicomponent ultrafine long fiber is transformed into a bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fiber. The three-dimensional spiral crimp structure of the bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fiber gives the fabric a more fluffy effect, a delicate feel, and an excellent peach skin texture.
[0032] When the latent crimped fibers are direct-spun bicomponent ultrafine long fibers, the latent crimped fibers in the grey fabric are heat-treated to form bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers. Due to the difference in viscosity between components A and B, they shrink significantly during heat treatment, resulting in a three-dimensional, spirally crimped structure. The three-dimensional, spirally crimped structure of the ultrafine crimped long fibers imparts a fluffier effect to the fabric, creating a delicate hand and an excellent peach-skin texture. The fineness is preferably 0.10 to 0.25 dtex, more preferably 0.10 to 0.15 dtex.
[0033] The scouring process preferably takes place at a temperature of 80-95°C for 20-40 minutes. The scouring agent used in the scouring process is not particularly limited. When industrial liquid sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 30% to 33% is used, the amount used is 4 g / L or less, preferably 2 g / L or less.
[0034] Reduction Processing: Bath processing is preferred. This ensures that the sea component is fully removed while the island component is not etched. The reagent used is not particularly limited; solid sodium hydroxide or industrial lye (33% concentration) can be used. Preferred solutions are sodium hydroxide solutions with a concentration of 20-40 g / L, a temperature of 60°C-100°C, and a duration of 35-120 minutes.
[0035] Relaxation: preferably at a temperature of 110 to 130°C and for 20 to 40 minutes.
[0036] Intermediate setting: The preferred temperature is 160-190°C, the time is 1-10 minutes, and the setting equipment is set to add overfeed upwards (overfeed amount OFF++5-35).
[0037] Resin processing: Resin liquid is selected as needed, such as water-repellent resin liquid, soft resin liquid, etc. The processing method is preferably padding (one dip and one padding, with a padding rate of 40-80%). When using a water-repellent resin liquid, it is taken into account that the fabric of the present invention has a large number of curls formed by the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers. After the water-repellent processing, air is stored between the tiny protrusions, which together with the air support the water droplets, and the contact angle is larger, and the water repellency of the fabric tends to be further improved. The water-repellent resin is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include silicone resin, C6 fluorine resin, etc., and the amount used is preferably 30-80 g / L.
[0038] Finished product shaping: The preferred temperature is 150-170°C, the time is 0.5-1.5 minutes, and the shaping equipment is set to add overfeed upwards (overfeed amount OFF++1-5).
[0039] Calendering: The temperature is preferably 90-130°C. Temperatures above 130°C tend to make the fabric feel harder, while temperatures below 90°C deteriorate the down-proofing properties. The pressure is preferably 40-80kg and the speed is 20-60m / min.
[0040] The fabric of the present invention is particularly suitable for making down jackets and the like.
[0041] The present invention is further described below with reference to the following embodiments and comparative examples.
[0042] The test methods for the various parameters involved in the present invention are as follows:
[0043] (1) Qualitative properties of bicomponent microfibers
[0044] The fabric to be tested was disassembled to obtain 5 cm long yarn, and paraffin embedding method was used to prepare samples. The specific test method is as follows:
[0045] ① Place two 1cm high L-shaped metal sheets together to form a groove-shaped mold. Position the openings on the two sheets opposite each other, allowing the yarn to be placed vertically on them. Openings should be spaced 1cm apart along the length of the metal sheets, with the openings reaching 2 / 3 of the sheet's height.
[0046] ② Dissolve solid paraffin as an embedding agent until it becomes liquid, and slowly inject it into the metal mold to penetrate into the yarn.
[0047] ③ After the paraffin wax solidifies, separate the L-shaped metal sheets and demould.
[0048] ④ Divide the paraffin strip after demolding so that each yarn to be tested is located in the center of the divided paraffin block. Then heat the paraffin block perpendicular to one side of the yarn and stick it to a small wooden block suitable for the size of the microtome.
[0049] ⑤ With the yarn as the center, trim the paraffin block into a cone shape (four-sided cone), with the end of the yarn away from the wooden block at the top of the cone.
[0050] ⑥ Place the small wooden block on the microtome to perform continuous sectioning on the conical paraffin block.
[0051] ⑦ Transfer the slices to a glass slide and heat them on a heating plate. The ideal heating conditions are to completely dissolve the paraffin wax and expose the yarn. For example, set the heating plate to 90°C and preheat for 5 minutes.
[0052] ⑧ Observe the cross-sectional morphology using a digital microscope (VXH-6000) at 1000x magnification and count the number of single filaments (F). Measure the linear density (N) (dtex) of the yarns obtained above according to GB / T 4743-2009. Calculate the single filament fineness (T) of each yarn by N / F. Yarns with a single filament fineness of 0.25 dtex or less and exhibiting two components on the cross-section are considered bicomponent microfibers.
[0053] (2) Flexion height and curl number
[0054] First, the fabric to be tested was placed in an environment with a temperature of (20±2)°C and a relative humidity of (65±5)% for 24 hours. Then, the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers were removed from the fabric, and a force of 0.1 mg was applied to the yarn to prepare the sample.
[0055] Then, use a distance meter to measure the vertical distance between the highest and lowest points of two adjacent buckling on the single fiber as the buckling height. 10 points are measured on each single fiber, and ten groups are measured. The highest and lowest values are its buckling height range.
[0056] Finally, the disassembled two-component ultrafine curly long fibers were fixed on the sample table and photographed under a microscope (model: KEYENCE VHX-2000C digital microscope, the magnification was based on image clarity, such as selecting a magnification of 100). The photos were then printed out, and the actual length represented by 1 cm on the scale was calculated based on the magnification scale displayed on the photo. The number of curls within this distance was then measured, which was the actual number of curls within 1 cm.
[0057] The above steps were repeated 20 times, and the average value of the 20 sets of measured data was taken as the final result.
[0058] (3) Determination of the content of bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers
[0059] Cut five smooth, wrinkle-free pieces of fabric to be tested, measuring 20 cm x 20 cm, as test specimens. Weigh them to the nearest 0.1 mg and record them as G. Then disassemble the specimens to separate all the yarns. Measure the yarn's single-filament fineness and composition using the method described in (1) above to confirm that it is a bicomponent ultrafine long fiber. Measure the yarn's buckling height and number of crimps using the method described in (2) above to confirm that it is a bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fiber. Proceed to the next step.
[0060] The disassembled two-component ultrafine curly long fibers were weighed and recorded as g1, accurate to 0.1 mg, and finally the content was calculated according to the following formula.
[0061] Content M = (g1 / G)*100%.
[0062] The above steps were repeated 20 times, and the average value of the 20 sets of measured data was taken as the final result.
[0063] (4) Intrinsic viscosity
[0064] Take a piece of flat, wrinkle-free test cloth, cut five 20×20 cm pieces of test cloth, split them, and extract the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers. As needed, use chemical dissolution, physical dissolution, or alcoholysis to separate component A and component B in the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers. Then, dissolve component A and component B in a mixture of phenol and 1,2-dichlorobenzene, respectively. Use an Ubbelohde viscometer using an electron scanning microscope (SEM) to measure the flow time t. Then use an Ubbelohde viscometer to measure the flow time t0 of the phenol and 1,2-dichlorobenzene mixture, and calculate the relative viscosity of the sample ηrelative = t / t0. Then calculate the intrinsic viscosity using the formula: ηrelative = 1 / 4×(ηrelative - 1) / C + 3 / 4×(lnηrelative) / C
[0065] Where C is the concentration of the sample solution, g / 100 mL; η characteristic is the intrinsic viscosity of the sample, dL / g; η relative is the relative viscosity of the sample.
[0066] (5) Porosity
[0067] The fabric to be tested was cut into 10cm×17cm (warp×weft) samples. The two ends of the long side were clamped on the tensile tester. The sample was stretched with a load of 49N. After the tension reached 49N, the two ends of the sample were fixed with a clamp. Then the sample was taken under a microscope and photographed with transmitted light. The total pore area and the total area of the photographed area were calculated using the area meter software provided by the microscope. The ratio of the total pore area to the total area of the photographed area is the unit area 1×1cm 2The above steps were repeated 20 times, and the average value of the 20 sets of measured data was taken as the final result.
[0068] (6) Determination of Cover Factor CF
[0069] Warp cover factor CF value = square root of warp yarn fineness (denier) x warp density (roots / inch).
[0070] Weft cover factor CF value = square root of weft yarn fineness (denier) x density in the weft direction (roots / inch).
[0071] Cover coefficient CF value = warp cover coefficient + weft cover coefficient
[0072] The fiber fineness was measured according to GB / T 14343-2008, and the density was measured according to GB / T 4668-1995.
[0073] (7) Elastic elongation
[0074] According to JIS L 1096:2010.
[0075] (8) Anti-down property
[0076] The test was performed according to Method B in Appendix E of GB / T 14272-2011.
[0077] (9) Static contact angle
[0078] Tested according to GB / T 42694-2023.
[0079] (10) Tear strength
[0080] The test was performed according to the pendulum method of JIS L 1096:2010.
[0081] (11) Comprehensive evaluation of hand feel
[0082] A comprehensive evaluation of the peach skin feel and bone feel of the tested fabrics is conducted, as shown in the table below.
[0083] (12) Dimensional stability
[0084] The dimensional stability was measured using the JIS L 1096-2010 method.
[0085] Example 1
[0086] Weaving is carried out on a water jet loom, the warp yarn is made of 25D / 72f-PET DTY polyester filament, the weft yarn is made of sea-island composite fiber, the yarn specification is 38D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) FDY (parallel two-component ultrafine curly long fiber after desealing and heat treatment), wherein the island contains component A and component B, specifically PBT / PET, and the sea component is alkali-soluble PET, the weight proportion of component A, component B and sea component in the weft yarn is 40% / 40% / 20%, the intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components is 2.5, the structure is plain weave, and the warp and weft weaving density of the grey fabric is 194*155 (pieces / inch), thereby producing the grey fabric.
[0087] The grey cloth was sequentially subjected to scouring (90°C*20min), weight reduction (80°C*120min, sodium hydroxide solution 20g / L), relaxation (120°C*30min), intermediate setting (170°C*60s), dyeing (130°C*40min), waterproof resin processing (one dip and one padding, padding rate 57%, waterproofing agent 70g / L) and finished product setting (170°C*60s), and calendering (110°C*60s, pressure 60kg, speed 50m / min) to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0088] Example 2
[0089] Weaving was performed on an air-jet loom using 80S cotton staple fibers (100% cotton content) in a 2 / 1 twill weave. The warp and weft density of the grey fabric was 168 x 130 (counts / inch) to produce a grey fabric. The fabric was then mercerized after scouring (conditions: 240 g / L sodium hydroxide solution, room temperature, 1 minute). Other conditions were the same as in Example 1 to produce the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0090] Example 3
[0091] The weft yarn was changed to 38D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) FDY (a core-biased bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber after sea removal and heat treatment), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0092] Example 4
[0093] The warp yarn was changed to 84D / 60f-PET DTY, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0094] Example 5
[0095] The warp yarn was changed to 26S cotton staple fiber, and the weft yarn was changed to 63D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) FDY (parallel two-component ultrafine curly long fiber after desealing and heat treatment). The rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0096] Example 6
[0097] The warp yarn was changed to 100S cotton staple fiber, and the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0098] Example 7
[0099] The intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components was changed to 1, and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
[0100] Example 8
[0101] The intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components was changed to 4, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 2.
[0102] Example 9
[0103] The intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components was changed to 1.5, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 2.
[0104] Example 10
[0105] The intrinsic viscosity ratio of the two components was changed to 3.5, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 2.
[0106] Example 11
[0107] The warp yarn was changed to 81D / 96f-PBT / PET DTY, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 2.
[0108] Example 12
[0109] The weft yarn was changed to 38D / 6f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) FDY (which becomes a core-biased bicomponent ultrafine curly long fiber after sea removal and heat treatment), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 2.
[0110] Example 13
[0111] The content of weft yarn in the fabric was changed to 20% by weight, the warp and weft weaving density was changed to 205*124 (rounds / inch), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 2.
[0112] Example 14
[0113] Weft yarn 1 was 38D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) DTY (parallel bicomponent ultrafine crimped filaments after sea-removal and heat treatment), and weft yarn 2 was 25D / 72f-PET DTY polyester filaments. Weft yarn 1 accounted for 50% by weight of the total weft yarn content. The remaining conditions were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 2.
[0114] Example 15
[0115] Weft yarn 1 was 38D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) DTY (parallel bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers after sea-removal and heat treatment), and weft yarn 2 was 80S cotton staple fibers (100% cotton content). Weft yarn 1 accounted for 70% by weight of the total weft yarn content. The remaining procedures were the same as in Example 2 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 3.
[0116] Example 16
[0117] The weft yarn was changed to 32D / 280f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) DTY (direct-spun parallel bicomponent ultra-fine long fiber), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 3.
[0118] Example 17
[0119] The weft yarn was changed to 38D / 12f-PTT / PET (50 / 50) FDY (parallel bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers after sea removal and heat treatment), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the lightweight elastic fabric of the present invention. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 3.
[0120] Comparative Example 1
[0121] The weft yarn was changed to 63D / 6f-PBT / PET DTY, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a lightweight elastic fabric. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 3.
[0122] Comparative Example 2
[0123] The warp and weft weaving density was changed to 210*84 (rounds / inch), and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a lightweight elastic fabric. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 2.
[0124] Comparative Example 3
[0125] The warp yarn was changed to 38D / 12f-PBT / PET (50 / 50) DTY (parallel bicomponent ultrafine crimped long fibers after sea removal and heat treatment). The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a lightweight elastic fabric. The test results of various properties are shown in Table 3.
Claims
1. Lightweight elastic fabric, its characteristics are: The fabric contains bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers only in the weft yarn, the monofilament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 0.10 to 0.25 dtex, the buckling height is 70 to 150 μm, the number of curls is 120 to 240 per cm, and the total content of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers in the fabric is 20 to 60 weight percent.
2. The lightweight elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The two components in the two-component ultrafine curly long fibers are component A and component B, both of which are polyester fiber-forming polymers, and the intrinsic viscosity ratio of component A to component B is 1.5-3.
5.
3. The lightweight elastic fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The warp yarns of the lightweight elastic fabric are common filaments, and the ratio of the common filaments to the single filament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 1.5-8.
0.
4. The lightweight elastic fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The warp yarns of the lightweight elastic fabric are ordinary staple yarns, and the ratio of the count of the ordinary staple yarns to the single filament fineness of the bicomponent ultrafine curly long fibers is 150-800.
5. The lightweight elastic fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The porosity of the fabric is 0.1-0.6%.
6. The lightweight elastic fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The weft direction elastic elongation of the fabric is 10% to 30%.
Citation Information
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