Cosmetic compositions having a high urea content

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 25% to 40% by weight of urea and / or urea derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one saccharide-free non-emulsifying hydrophilic gelling polymer; at least one scleroglucan gum; the composition containing less than 2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% or no surfactant at all. It also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition of this kind for skin care, in particular for the skin of the face or body, as well as to a cosmetic skin care method, in particular for the skin of the face or body, involving the application of a cosmetic composition of this kind.

Description

[0001] TITLE: Cosmetic compositions with high urea content

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, urea and / or its derivatives in a content of between 25% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one non-saccharide, non-emulsifying hydrophilic gelling polymer; and at least one scleroglucan gum; said composition comprising less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of surfactant, preferably less than 1%, even better less than 0.5% or even is completely free of surfactant. It also relates to the use of such a cosmetic composition for skin care, in particular for facial or body skin, as well as a cosmetic process for skin care, in particular for facial or body skin, comprising the application of such a cosmetic composition.

[0003] Humectants are commonly used in cosmetic compositions, i.e. hygroscopic substances that help maintain the water content in the skin and thus have a positive effect on the suppleness and feel of the skin.

[0004] Such humectants are also useful for providing hydration to the skin, particularly for treating dry skin. Among the many humectants, we can notably mention urea, which is part of the composition of NMF (Natural Moisturizer Factor) and which has a softening action on the horny layers of the skin.

[0005] However, urea has the disadvantage of not being stable in an aqueous medium. This instability can cause a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

[0006] As a result, there has been a long-standing attempt to formulate urea in cosmetically acceptable compositions, in a stable form for at least several months, and which is translucent because this aspect evokes a fresh texture for the consumer.

[0007] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions comprising a high level of urea, stable over time, and having a translucent appearance, by combining this high level of urea with at least one non-emulsifying, non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling polymer, at least one scleroglucan gum, and with a minimal amount of surfactant. Summary of the invention

[0008] The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0009] • urea and / or its derivatives in a content of between 25% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0010] • at least one non-saccharide, non-emulsifying, hydrophilic gelling polymer;

[0011] • at least one scleroglucan gum; said composition comprising less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of surfactant, preferably less than 1%, even better less than 0.5% or even is completely free of surfactant.

[0012] It also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the care of the skin, in particular the skin of the face or body.

[0013] It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the face or body, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0014] Definitions

[0015] By "skin" is meant the entire skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably, the skin of the face or body.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" or "emulsifier" means any compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactant compounds are amphiphilic molecules, that is to say they have two parts of different natures, one lipophilic (miscible with fatty substances), the other hydrophilic (miscible in water). They thus make it possible to mix on a very small scale, for example microscopic, two immiscible phases, by interacting with one lipophilic (i.e. hydrophobic), by its hydrophobic part; while with the other hydrophilic phase, it will interact by its hydrophilic part.

[0017] Detailed description

[0018] Urea and its derivatives The composition according to the invention comprises urea and / or its derivatives in a content of between 25% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] Urea within the meaning of the invention corresponds to the compound of formula (I) CC NhL: [Chem 1]

[0020] (I).

[0021] For the purposes of the invention, the term "urea derivative" means any compound other than urea itself (compound of formula (I) defined above).

[0022] Preferably, the urea derivatives are hydroxyalkyl ureas, more preferably hydroxy alkyl ureas corresponding to the general formula (II):

[0023] [Chem 2]

[0024] R1R4

[0025] N— CO — NR / R.

[0026] (II), in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group which may contain from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups, at least one of the radicals R1-R4 representing a hydroxyalkyl group, and

[0027] - their salts, solvates and isomers.

[0028] In formula (II), among the alkyl groups, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl and tert-butyl groups.

[0029] Preferred compounds of formula (II) are those containing only one hydroxyalkyl group, i.e. those for which R1 is a hydroxyalkyl group and R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group. More particularly preferred are compounds of formula (II) for which R1 is a hydroxyalkyl group and R2, R3 and R4 each represent a hydrogen atom. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, those containing a single hydroxyl group are preferred, in particular the hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, hydroxypentyl and hydroxyhexyl groups. The hydroxyethyl group is preferred.

[0030] Preferred compounds of formula (II) include N-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea; N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)urea; N-(2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl)urea; N-methyl-N-(1,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxy-2-hexyl)urea; N-methyl-N'-(1-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl)urea; N-(1-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl)urea; N-(1,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl)urea; N-(tris-hydroxymethyl-methyl)urea; N-ethyl-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea; N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea; N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N,N-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; N,N'-Bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N'-propyl-urea; N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N-tert.Butyl-N'-(2-(hydroxyethyl)-N'-(2-(hydroxypropyl)- urea; N- (1,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl)-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)- urea; N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N',N'- dimethyl- urea; N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- urea; and N',N'-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N',N'-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)- urea.

[0031] A particularly preferred compound for use in the present invention is N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea, hereinafter referred to as "hydroxyethyl urea".

[0032] Hydroxyalkyl ureas of formula (li) can be prepared as described in application DE-27 03 185. Among these, hydroxyethyl urea is furthermore commercially available, in the form of a 50% by weight mixture in water, from the company NATIONAL STARCH under the trade name Hydrovance®.

[0033] Among the salts, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0034] By solvate is meant a stoichiometric mixture of said compound of formula (II) with one or more molecules of water or organic solvent, such a mixture being derived from the synthesis of the compound of formula (II).

[0035] By "isomer" is meant in particular the optical isomers or any positional isomer, or any geometric isomer of a compound of formula (II). The composition according to the invention comprises between 25% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of urea or one of its derivatives, preferably between 30% and 40% by weight, more preferably between 30% and 35% by weight, for example, 30,31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39%, in particular 30%.

[0036] Sclerociform gum

[0037] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a Sclerotium fungus, particularly Sclerotium rolfsii, consisting of glucose units.

[0038] Suitable scleroglucan gums may or may not be modified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums useful in the compositions of the present invention are not modified.

[0039] Suitable examples of commercial scleroglucan gum products include, but are not limited to, products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11 QDI, by the company CARGILL and under the name AMIGUM or AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. Other scleroglucan gums, such as those treated with 0.5 to 10% glyoxal as described in French patent application No. 2,633,940, may also be used.

[0040] The composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.5% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of scleroglucan gum, in particular between 1% and 2%, for example, 1.1%; 1.2%; 1.3%; 1.4%; 1.5%; 1.6%; 1.7%; 1.8%; 1.9%, in particular 1.5%.

[0041] Non-saccharide, non-emulsifying, hydrophilic gelling polymer

[0042] For the purposes of the invention, the term “non-saccharide polymer” means a polymer not comprising carbohydrates.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “carbohydrate” means a compound of the sugar or carbohydrate type, corresponding to a molecule essentially composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms.

[0044] For the purposes of the invention, the term "non-emulsifying polymer" means a polymer which does not have amphiphilic properties, i.e. which does not have at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art. The non-emulsifying and non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be synthetic or natural.

[0045] The non-emulsifying and non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Carboxyvinyl polymers

[0047] Carboxyvinyl polymers can be modified or unmodified.

[0048] These may be polyacrylate salts. These are, in particular, crosslinked and neutralized polymers.

[0049] Sodium salts are advantageously preferred.

[0050] Examples include polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polyacrylate such as: Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by BASF; and partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by BASF or under the name SALCARE AST from CIBA (BASF) (INCI name: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil).

[0051] We can also cite, in particular, polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polymethacrylate, for example DARVAN® 7-N from the company Vanderbilt.

[0052] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of those marketed under the following names: Carbopol® (INCI name: carbomer) from the company LUBRIZOL.

[0053] 2-Acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0054] These AMPS polymers can be completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, i.e., at least 90% neutralized. These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0055] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, i.e. water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0056] By "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is meant polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, allow the obtaining of a macroscopically homogeneous and translucent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

[0057] They can be: either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents corresponding to compounds with olefinic polyunsaturation; or copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more monomers, for example with ethylenic unsaturation, hydrophilic, and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined below.

[0058] The polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, are for example chosen from: a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%.

[0059] They are generally characterized by the fact that they comprise, randomly distributed: i) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of the following general formula (III):

[0060] [Chem 3] in which X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, at most 10 mol% of the cations X being able to be protons H; and ii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0061] This polymer preferably comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (III) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0062] The X cation + represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion. The cation X + preferential is the NH4 cation + . More specifically, 90 to 100 mol% of the cations are NH4 cations + and 0 to 10 mol% are protons (H + ).

[0063] Crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are selected, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetrallyl oxethanoyl or other allyl or vinyl ether polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene bis acrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0064] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (IV): [Chem 4]

[0065] Polymers of this type include, in particular, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from the company Seppic, crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as marketed under the name “Hostacerin® AMPS” by the company Clariant. In particular, as AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate). b) AMPS copolymers, containing in particular water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, or mixtures thereof.

[0066] Water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0067] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned, for example: (meth)acrylic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, vinyl sulfonic acid and (meth)allyl sulfonic acid, vinyl phosphonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (V):

[0068] [Chem 5] in which:

[0069] R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0070] - X1 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0071] Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite for example: (meth)acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, vinylamine, N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (VI) below:

[0072] [Chem 6] in which:

[0073] R3 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0074] - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR4 where R4 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine), a hydroxyl group (-OH) or ether. Examples that may be mentioned are glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0075] AMPS copolymers may be, in particular, copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, more particularly crosslinked anionic copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide.

[0076] These copolymers may in particular be crosslinked by a compound with olefinic polyunsaturation such as those chosen from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylene bis-acrylamide, allyl-sucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis-acrylamide is used, partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine.

[0077] Preferably, said olefinically polyunsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture. Preferred copolymers are obtained by copolymerization, by radical route, of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and even better of 55-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-45 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0078] Furthermore, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may generally be at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0079] The hydrophilic gelling agent that may be used may also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0080] A particularly preferred crosslinked copolymer in the context of the implementation of the present invention is in particular available under the name Sepigel 305™ sold by the company Seppic (CTFA name polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or AQUAGEL 65 or AQUAGEL 35 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 Pareth-6) from the company TINCI MATERIALS; mention may also be made of the product Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by the company Seppic.

[0081] These polymers are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or by an organic base such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0083] As other polymers derived from AMPS, in particular copolymers of AMPS, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of: copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as those used in the commercial products sold by the company Clariant under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), ARISTOFLEX® AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Crosspolymer), or ARISTOFLEX® AVL from Clariant (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate), for example neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer); copolymers of AM PS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ NS by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60) or such as the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) by the company SEPPIC;and copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer, such as copolymers of AMPS and polysaccharide, such as for example the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® Eco T by the company Clariant (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer).;

[0084] AMPS polymers have, for example, a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0085] According to one embodiment of the invention, said at least one non-emulsifying non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling polymer is chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as sodium polyacrylate or carbomer, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymers such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of non-emulsifying non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling polymer, in particular between 0.5% and 1.5%, for example, 0.6; 0.7; 0.8; 0.9; 1; 1.1; 1.2; 1.3; 1.4; 1.5%.

[0087] For example, the composition according to the invention comprises 1% of AMPS, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] According to another example, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.7% of carbomer, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] According to another example, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.5% of sodium polyacrylate, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises a non-starch polysaccharide.

[0090] In particular, this polysaccharide is distinct from scleroglucan gum.

[0091] Generally speaking, the polysaccharides can be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives.

[0092] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular xanthan gum,mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and their mixtures.,

[0093] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

[0095] The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] In general, the compounds of this type, which can be used in the present invention, are chosen from those which are described in particular in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458", in "Polymers in Nature, by EA Mc GREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980", in the work by Robert L. DAVI DSON entitled "Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" published by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in the industrial Gums "Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Academie Press Inc.".

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is chosen from xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, guar gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

[0099] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm).

[0100] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NOVAXAN™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0101] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of non-starchy polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, for example between 0.2 and 1%, more particularly between 0.2 and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Physiologically acceptable environment

[0103] In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0104] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0105] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of an H / W emulsion.

[0106] The physiologically acceptable medium may include water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s).

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, even better from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a thermal water such as VITTEL water, EVIAN water, VICHY water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a mineral water.

[0110] Among the water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature - 25°C) one may cite one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propane 1,3 diol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerin.

[0111] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance such as one or more oil(s). According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 20% by weight of fatty substance, in particular less than 10% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0114] Oil is any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0115] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils; mixtures thereof.

[0116] In the list of oils cited above, hydrocarbon oil means any oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of fatty substances in the emulsion can range from 3 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0119] The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1%, even better less than 0.5% or even is completely free (0%) of emulsifier and / or co-emulsifier. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one pH correction agent (pH corrector).

[0120] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 6 and 8, preferably between 6.5 and 7.5, more preferably around 7.

[0121] The pH of the composition means the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0122] Viscosity

[0123] The compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity between 50 and 150 poises, preferably between 55 and 120 poises, preferentially between 60 and 100 poises (1 poise = 100 mPa. s), measured at 25°C with a Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology after 10 min of rotation of a type 4 spindle, this measurement is carried out 24 hours after the preparation of the composition according to the invention.

[0124] In particular, the compositions according to the invention have a viscosity that is stable over time, in particular under accelerated aging conditions.

[0125] By "viscosity stable over time, particularly under accelerated aging conditions" is meant a viscosity of at least 30 poises, preferably at least 35 poises, even better at least 40 poises when measured after 7 days at 55°C with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM100® viscometer after 10 minutes of rotation of a type 4 spindle.

[0126] Appearance - Evaluation of translucent appearance

[0127] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is translucent to transparent.

[0128] For the purposes of the present invention, the term translucent composition means a composition having a haze measurement (HAZE) of less than 60, preferably less than 50, preferably less than 40.

[0129] More specifically, this value is measured using the Haze-gard i equipment from BYK. This device is used to measure haze (HAZE), an optical property contributing to the translucency of a composition. The method is more specifically described in the experimental section. Preferably, the composition is translucent after its application to the skin, i.e. there is no white mark after spreading the composition on the skin.

[0130] Additives

[0131] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, resins, dispersing agents, polymers, antioxidant agents, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] It is within the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not affected.

[0133] A composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0134] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, possibly gelled solution, a dispersion of the lotion type, possibly biphasic, an oil-in-water or multiple water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or even in the form of a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or even a stick. It may be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency. It may be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

[0135] Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended topical application and administration.

[0136] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an aqueous gel not containing a fatty phase, or an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or even of multiple emulsion (W / O / W). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. The composition according to the invention is implemented, within the framework of a use or a method according to the invention, by topical route.

[0137] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may in particular be made of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

[0138] The composition can be rinsed off or not after being applied to the skin.

[0139] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel, but also in the form of a gelled emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a gel.

[0140] Applications

[0141] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be facial or body care products.

[0142] The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

[0143] These compositions are therefore intended to be applied to the skin.

[0144] Thus, according to one of these aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for skin care, in particular for facial or body skin care.

[0145] According to another of these aspects, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the face or body, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0146] The invention is now illustrated by the following examples.

[0147] Examples

[0148] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Raw Materials (MPs) / INCI Names / Suppliers / Concentration in the MP of active ingredient

[0150] [Table 1]

[0151] Compositions 1, T, 2, 5 mentioned in Tables 2, 3 and 4 are compositions according to the invention and compositions C1, C2, CT, C2', C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8, C10 and C13 mentioned in Tables 2, 3 and 4 are comparative compositions which do not fall within the scope of the invention.

[0152] Evaluation of translucent appearance: Haze measurement protocol

[0153] The translucent appearance of the compositions of the invention was measured using the Haze-gard i equipment from BYK. This device makes it possible to measure haze (HAZE), an optical property contributing to the translucent appearance of a composition.

[0154] A film with a thickness equal to 152 microns is previously prepared at 25°C for each composition to be evaluated, using a BYKO-drive Auto Applicator spreader (ELCOMETER 4340) and a 152 micron thick film puller supplied by BYK. Each composition is then spread on a transparent plastic support of the BYKO charts type (PA-2871) transparent PE 100 microns thick. Immediately after the film of the composition to be evaluated has been produced, the haze measurement is carried out using the Haze-gard i device which has been previously calibrated.

[0155] The haze value corresponds to: Haze = 100% • IDiff / ITT where:

[0156] - 1 Diff corresponds to the intensity of the light which, when passing through the composition to be evaluated, deviates from the incident beam by more than 2.5° on average, and

[0157] - ITT corresponds to the intensity of the light which, when passing through the composition to be evaluated, is totally transmitted (Sum of the transmitted intensity which deviates by less than 2.5° on average from the axis of the incident beam and the diffuse intensity which deviates by more than 2.5° on average from the incident beam).

[0158] Viscosity assessment

[0159] The 24-hour viscosity is measured in poises with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer after 10 minutes of rotation of a type 4 spindle. This measurement is carried out after the preparation of the composition stored for 24 hours at 25°C, the viscosity of which is to be measured. The 7-day viscosity is measured in poises with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer after 10 minutes of rotation of a type 4 spindle. This measurement is carried out after the preparation of the composition stored for 7 days at 55°C, the viscosity of which is to be measured.

[0160] The results are presented in Tables 2 to 4.

[0161] [Table 2]

[0162]

[0163] The above results demonstrate that the non-emulsifying, non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling polymer combined with scleroglucan gum and a urea content of between 15% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition with sufficient viscosity and which remains stable over time, while being translucent.

[0164] Furthermore, the presence of xanthan gum further improves the translucent appearance of the composition. [Table 3] The texture of comparative compositions that do not include scleroglucan gum is stringy and too soft.

[0165] [Table 4]

[0166] The texture of the comparative compositions is not satisfactory, it is sticky, with an emulsified or granular appearance, and is not translucent.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: • urea and / or its derivatives in a content of between 25% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; • at least one non-saccharide, non-emulsifying, hydrophilic gelling polymer; • at least one scleroglucan gum; said composition comprising less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of surfactant, preferably less than 1%, even better less than 0.5% or even is completely free of surfactant.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the urea derivatives are chosen from the compounds of formula (II): [Chem 2] (II), in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group which may contain from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups, at least one of the radicals R1-R4 representing a hydroxyalkyl group, and - their salts, solvates and isomers.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said at least one non-emulsifying non-saccharide hydrophilic gelling polymer is chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as sodium polyacrylate or carbomer, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymers such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a non-starch polysaccharide.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the non-starch polysaccharide is chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, gum Karaya, carob bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin,in particular xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof, 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the viscosity of the composition is between 50 and 150 poises, preferably between 55 and 120 poises, preferentially between 60 and 100 poises.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said composition is transparent, in particular the composition has a haze measurement (HAZE) of less than 60, preferably less than 50, even more preferably less than 40.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of an aqueous gel.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a fatty substance.

10. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for the care of the skin, in particular the skin of the face or body.

11. Cosmetic process for caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the face or body, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.