Cosmetic composition in the form of a fluid oil-in-water emulsion with a high oil content

Abstract

The invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fat phase content and a low viscosity, which emulsion can be used as a base composition for different skin care and / or makeup compositions.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water fluid emulsion with high oil content

[0002] Field of invention

[0003] The present invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an Apollonian oil-in-water emulsion and its preparation process.

[0004] More particularly, the invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fatty phase content and a low viscosity, which can be used as a base composition for various skin care and / or makeup compositions.

[0005] Technical background

[0006] For various reasons linked in particular to greater comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), current cosmetic compositions are most often in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase or a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

[0007] Compositions with a continuous oil phase are often appreciated because they are conformable and do not dry out the skin. However, these compositions often have a greasy feel to the touch, which can be a deterrent for consumers with oily skin.

[0008] O / W emulsions are preferred because their external aqueous phase gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W / O emulsions. However, they do not provide the comfort and hydration obtained with W / O emulsions since the oil phase content of these cosmetic compositions in the form of an O / W emulsion is generally less than 50% by weight. Indeed, the higher the oil phase content, the more it is necessary to add a high quantity of surfactants to stabilize the emulsion. However, the presence of emulsifiers at high concentrations can lead to problems of discomfort of the composition obtained during application, such as for example a rough or sticky feel, as well as to safety problems with regard to the skin, eyes and scalp due to a large quantity of emulsifiers.Furthermore, the higher the fat phase content, the higher the viscosity of the emulsion. As a result, the sensory properties of emulsions with a high internal oily phase are not entirely satisfactory. In particular, these compositions have a texture that can be considered too thick and penetration into the skin is too slow.

[0009] Generally speaking, in the cosmetics field, consumers are constantly looking for breakthrough products, with original, innovative and unexpected textures, and unexpected properties. All kinds of cosmetic product galenics have been developed, ranging from solid formulations to very fluid compositions and gels, to offer users a variety of textures adapted to their needs. For example, mousse-like foundations and thixotropic nail polishes have been developed. Cosmetic serums, for example, which are very fluid and highly concentrated in active ingredients, are very popular with consumers. They often consist of an aqueous base to provide a freshness effect during their application, which does not, however, allow the incorporation of a sufficient oily phase. Serums are therefore used as a base, and must be supplemented with a cream to provide the desired emollience and comfort.

[0010] It would therefore be desirable to offer new cosmetic products with a fluid and light texture similar to that of cosmetic serums, providing the emollience of a much thicker cream, rich in oily compounds.

[0011] It is to the applicant's credit to have demonstrated that such products could be obtained by means of emulsions prepared according to a particular process, making it possible to incorporate a high content of oily dispersed phase into an O / W emulsion, without causing an increase in the viscosity of the composition, nor requiring the addition of a significant quantity of emulsifiers to ensure its stability.

[0012] Summary of the invention

[0013] The present invention relates firstly to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant; a dispersed oily phase; an aqueous continuous phase, in which: the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and the viscosity of the emulsion is less than 2 Pa.s, preferably 1.5 Pa.s, in particular 1 Pa.s, and in particular 0.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 , the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] When formulated as a lip makeup composition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to offer an alternative to "tint" type compositions. Tint products are very popular with consumers of lip products, particularly in the Asian market, which has mastered this type of formulation. These are water-based formulas that allow the addition of colorants (=dyes). The colorants have the particularity and specificity of "tinting", lastingly coloring the lips. These products therefore provide long-lasting makeup color and excellent non-transfer properties because the colorants attach to the skin and / or the lips and do not transfer as can be the case with pigments. However, it is known that tint products are very drying and uncomfortable because they are composed mainly of water and have little emollient oily phase.The implementation of the invention which is the subject of the present application in lip coloring compositions thus makes it possible to propose tint-type textures, presenting a cocoon-like, rich and emollient texture providing a new care dimension for a lip makeup product which is usually drying.

[0015] Another advantage is linked to the use of a very small quantity of surfactant which therefore improves the skin tolerance of the emulsion, especially for a lip product when we know that it is a fragile area.

[0016] But more than that, it is an oral area where some of the deposited product is ingested. It is even more important that the surfactant level in the formula is in the lowest possible quantity, to limit ingestion.

[0017] When formulated as a complexion product, the composition according to the invention offers an interesting alternative to the products currently on the market, which are mainly W / O or W / Si (water-in-silicone) emulsions.

[0018] Today, complexion products must meet different requirements, both in terms of makeup results and skincare benefits.

[0019] Thus, foundation nowadays must respect the skin, have a soft, non-sticky, or even occlusive feel. In addition, high coverage and long-lasting wear are increasingly demanded by consumers. However, full-coverage foundation products have the particularity of being too present, a little too sticky due to the high percentage of pigments introduced, and the content and nature of the emulsifiers used, which are often very viscosifying.

[0020] The implementation of the invention which is the subject of the present application in foundation compositions advantageously makes it possible to maintain a very appreciable fluidity, while allowing a high level of pigment to be introduced. In addition, due to its high oil concentration, the compositions of the invention make it possible to introduce a care dimension. In addition, they offer a very good “play time” of the foundation upon application, that is to say that the foundation can be worked for a sufficiently long time during application. The invention therefore makes it possible to increase the performance of the makeup in terms of coverage while maintaining sensoriality and comfort of the skin without a sticky effect or occlusiveness. Compared to E / Si foundations, it offers an alternative that is more respectful of the skin and the environment.The present invention makes it possible to meet the needs expressed above by providing a composition in the form of an H / W emulsion of the “Apollonian” type, hereinafter referred to as “Apollonian emulsion”.

[0021] An Apollonian O / W emulsion is a high internal phase ratio (HIPE) emulsion, comprising a dispersed oil phase that is predominantly present in relation to the aqueous continuous phase. The metastability of this type of emulsion is achieved through the phenomenon of "coalescence-fragmentation" when the distribution of the globules in the emulsion corresponds to that of the Apollonian Stacking. In other words, the metastability induced by surfactant-unsaturated interfaces can be sufficient to stabilize highly polydisperse emulsions, known as Apollonian emulsions. As a result, these emulsions can be stable while containing relatively low surfactant contents.

[0022] This specific "globular" configuration Apollonian Stacking - advantageously gives the emulsion a very high fluidity despite the high content of fatty phase as well as a particularly innovative rheology. The emulsion can notably be presented in the form of a fluid milk whose appearance and texture transform into an oil when applied to the skin.

[0023] Obtaining this distribution of globules of the dispersed phase in the emulsion corresponding to that of an Apollonian Stacking (at the origin of the fluidity of Apollonian emulsions) distinguishes Apollonian emulsions from HIPE emulsions known to those skilled in the art, which certainly have a very high dispersed phase content but have a much thicker texture.

[0024] The fluidity of Apollonian O / W emulsions is similar to the behavior of Newtonian fluids in that their texture, in particular their viscosity, varies little or not at all when the emulsion is subjected to a reasonable shear stress (before being applied to the keratin materials, where it then breaks). In particular, the Apollonian emulsions of the invention are distinguished from the HIPE compositions of the prior art in that they are fluid from the outset, and not only during their application.

[0025] In addition, the preparation of these Apollonian H / W emulsions requires very little water, and therefore makes it possible to obtain “eco-designed” cosmetic compositions, preserving water resources.

[0026] Preferably, they are formulated without “ethoxylated” surfactants which are criticized for their environmental impact.

[0027] The Apollonian O / W emulsions developed by the inventors are therefore particularly advantageous in that they are fluid, stable and rich in oil phase. They are therefore, due to their fluidity, particularly easy to apply to the skin and offer a specific sensoriality not previously known. In addition, the high concentration of oil phase allows a small amount of product to be applied to a large area of ​​skin. Finally, the low amount of surfactant contained in the emulsions improves the product's tolerance.

[0028] Furthermore, used in makeup, particularly in lipstick or foundation, these fluid emulsions are particularly advantageous in that they allow a high level of pigment to be introduced into the oily phase, while providing a skin care dimension.

[0029] Used to formulate perfuming products, the Apollonian H / W emulsions of the invention allow a strong persistence of the perfume, in particular to increase the persistence of the perfume compared to perfume compositions presented in other galenic forms (in particular presenting an alcoholic base).

[0030] Thus, according to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a fluid perfume in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant; a dispersed oily phase; an aqueous continuous phase, in which: the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and the viscosity of the emulsion is less than 2 Pa.s, preferably 1.5 Pa.s, in particular 1 Pa.s, and in particular 0.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The term "perfume" means a liquid product intended to scent an individual after spraying or applying it to the skin, hair, or clothing. Such a product is not rinsed off after application.

[0032] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of: i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, in particular at a speed of between 150 and 1000 rpm, in particular between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm; iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring, of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase and obtain an increase in viscosity up to a maximum value of less than 2 Pa.s, leading to a fluid composition, said viscosity being measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 , and the content of said oily phase being at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Brief description of the figures

[0034] [Fig. 1] Microscopic observations without and with coverslip with x100 magnification, of F008 emulsions (A) and (B) prepared according to example 1.

[0035] [Fig. 2] Particle size analysis of emulsions F008 (A) and (B) prepared according to Example 1, showing a distribution of droplet size as a function of their volume.

[0036] [Fig. 3] Particle size analysis of emulsion F018 prepared according to Example 2, showing a distribution of droplet size as a function of their volume.

[0037] [Fig. 4] Microscopic observations without and with coverslip with x100 magnification, of the emulsion according to example 3.

[0038] [Fig. 5] Particle size analysis of the emulsion prepared according to Example 3, showing a distribution of droplet size as a function of their volume.

[0039] Detailed description

[0040] The invention is now described in more detail and in a non-limiting manner in the following description.

[0041] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages relating to quantities are percentages by mass.

[0042] Cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion

[0043] Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant; a dispersed oily phase; an aqueous continuous phase, in which: the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and the viscosity of the emulsion is less than 2 Pa.s, preferably 1.5 Pa.s, in particular 1 Pa.s, and in particular 0.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] For the purposes of the present application, the term "fluid cosmetic composition" means a composition which flows under its own weight at room temperature.

[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, the “fluid cosmetic composition” according to the invention flows under its own weight in less than 10 seconds at room temperature.

[0046] The “fluid cosmetic composition” according to the invention is distinguished from any “solid” composition, of the “gel”, “cream” type, etc., and in particular from creams which transform into oil upon application, conventionally obtained with classic HIPE emulsions.

[0047] Thus, the compositions according to the invention are fluid and in particular have a relatively low viscosity.

[0048] The viscosity of the Apollonian H / W emulsions according to the invention can be measured in particular according to the operating method described in the experimental part.

[0049] As indicated in this description, the viscosity of the emulsion refers to a viscosity measured at 20°C with a Lamy Rheology RM 100 TOUCH CP 2000 viscometer, a rotary viscometer equipped with a cone-plate whose characteristics are a 40mm diameter cone, 4° angle + 40mm plate. The accuracy is + / - 1% of full scale with a repeatability of + / - 0.2%.

[0050] The texture of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is fluid and can be characterized by measuring their firmness using a texturometer.

[0051] Firmness can be measured according to the procedure described in the experimental section, with an SMS TA-TX PLUS TEXUROMETER using a two-step method.

[0052] Firmness can be measured in grams.

[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized by a firmness of less than 14g, in particular between 1g and 14g, preferably between 2g and 10g, even more preferably between 3g and 6g.

[0054] Emulsifying system

[0055] The compositions according to the invention comprise an emulsifying system which may comprise or consist of one or more surfactants. According to embodiments, the emulsifying system is soluble, and in particular solubilized, in the aqueous continuous phase.

[0056] The quantity of the emulsifying system used in the emulsion is very low compared to that of the oily dispersed phase.

[0057] Thus, the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system may be greater than 45, in particular greater than 100, in particular greater than 120.

[0058] The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsifying system is generally less than 400, in particular less than 390, in particular less than 350.

[0059] According to embodiments, the content of the emulsifying system is less than 2% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] According to embodiments, said at least one surfactant is ionic or non-ionic.

[0061] According to embodiments, said at least one surfactant has an HLB of between 10 and 18, in particular between 12 and 16.

[0062] According to embodiments, the surfactant does not comprise an “ethoxylated” chain and more particularly is not an alkyl and polyoxyethylene ether.

[0063] According to embodiments, the surfactant is non-ionic and is notably chosen from fatty acid and glycerol esters, alkylglucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, or mixtures thereof.

[0064] The fatty acid esters of glycerol may be chosen in particular from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate or distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglyceryl-10 laurate sold under the name S-Face 10 GL® by IWASE COSFA or under the name NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L by NIKKO CHEMICALS. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglyceryl-10 stearate sold under the name EMULGADE VERDE® by BASF. Preferably, the glycerol fatty acid ester is also the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 stearate and polyglyceryl-10 oleate marketed under the name MIZOAN SOLUBIL ORG-1300 by IWASE COSFA.

[0065] The saponins can be chosen in particular from saponins derived from the extraction of tea seeds marketed under the name Saponin+ by LESSON IA.

[0066] Lipopeptides composed of amino acids and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from surfactins and more particularly sodium surfactin marketed under the name KANEKA SURFACTIN CX by KANEKA. According to embodiments, the surfactant is ionic, in particular anionic. It is chosen in particular from geminal surfactants such as sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine marketed under the name Pellicer® L-30 or potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name Amphisol K®.

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "geminal surfactant" means compounds comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails linked together by a spacer. As an example of a geminal surfactant, mention may in particular be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine marketed under the name Pellicer® L-30 by PRESPERSE.

[0068] In embodiments, the emulsifying system comprises a glycerol fatty acid ester, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, and / or saponins.

[0069] Oily dispersed phase

[0070] The O / W emulsions according to the invention are characterized by a high oily phase content. This may be in particular at most 87%, in particular at most 85%, in particular at most 80%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to embodiments, the weight content of the oily phase may be between 70% and 87%, in particular between 75% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] The oily dispersed phase of the compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more oils miscible with each other.

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which has a lipophilic character and which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 20°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. The "oil" for the purposes of the present description may be in the form of a liquid, a paste or a solid at 20°C. Preferably, it is an oil which is liquid at 20°C.

[0074] The definition of solubility parameters in the three-dimensional Hansen solubility space is described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0075] According to this Hansen space:

[0076] ÔD characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

[0077] ÔP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KÉESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.)

[0078] These three parameters can be treated as the coordinates of a three-dimensional point in Hansen space. The closer the solvents are in this three-dimensional space, the more likely they are to dissolve in each other. They are based on the affinity of molecules for each other "like dissolves like".

[0079] The parameters ÔD, ÔP, ôh are expressed in (MPa) 1 / 2 , unit equivalent to (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0080] Hansen solubility parameters are calculated using HSPiP software version V5.3.06 from a chemical structure; the method selected in the software is Y-MB or Yamamoto-Molecular Break.

[0081] This software is available for download via the official Hansen Settings and HSPiP software website at www.hansen-solubility.com.

[0082] Log Kow or LogP, is a measure of the differential solubility of molecules in water and octanol; P is the octanol / water partition coefficient.

[0083] LogP = Log(CoctZCeau).

[0084] This value allows us to understand the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the molecule.

[0085] If the LogP is positive and very high, the molecule considered is much more soluble in octanol than in water, which reflects its lipophilic character and conversely, if the Log P is negative this means that the molecule considered is hydrophilic. A zero LogP means that the molecule is soluble in both solvents.

[0086] Preferably, the oils used according to the present invention have a LogP greater than 0.

[0087] According to embodiments, the oily phase comprises at least one polar oil, preferably non-volatile.

[0088] Preferably, the polar oil content represents at least 45% by weight, in particular from 45% to 87% by weight, in particular from 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0090] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5p of between 2 and 4 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 , preferably a 5p between 2.5 and 3.7 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 , even better between 3 and 3.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0091] Oil Preferably, the polar oil comprises at least one polar oil H1 chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides or dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Fatty alcohols are in particular alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain, having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, or isostearyl alcohol. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol, marketed under the name Eutanol G ® by INOLEX.

[0093] Fatty acid triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue esterified by three fatty acid residues, the chain lengths of which can vary in particular from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Fatty acid triglycerides can be chosen in particular from capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the name DUB MCT 5545 by STEARINERIE DUBOIS or triheptanoin, the latter being marketed under the name Sustoléo MCT® by BASF.

[0094] Preferably, the di-alkyl carbonate, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, is dicaprylyl carbonate. It is notably marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis.

[0095] According to embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar oil (H1) chosen from octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the polar oil (H1) represents at least 20% by weight of the composition, in particular from 25% to 80% of the composition.

[0097] Additional polar oils (H2)

[0098] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more other polar oils (additional polar oil or polar oil (H2). These additional polar oils (H2) may represent from 0% to 40% by weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight of the composition.

[0099] According to embodiments, the weight ratio of the polar oil (H2) / (H1) is less than or equal to 1.

[0100] According to embodiments, for example when the cosmetic composition is a non-therapeutic skin care composition, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) may in particular be between 0.01 and 0.5, in particular between 0.05 and 0.1.

[0101] According to other embodiments, in particular when the cosmetic composition is a perfume or a makeup product, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) may in particular be between 0.1 and 1, in particular between 0.3 and 0.9. The additional polar oils (H2) which may be present in the compositions of the invention are preferably non-volatile.

[0102] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg), at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Conversely, the term "volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg), at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0103] The additional oils (H2) may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils. They are chosen from polar oils distinct from the polar oils (H1).

[0104] As additional hydrocarbon polar oils suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of:

[0105] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin: such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutanate, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203® by AJINOMOTO, cranberry, chia, hibiscus, camellia, meadowfoam, sunflower, rapeseed, castor, jojoba, shea, sweet almond, argan, avocado, olive, soybean, corn, apricot, castor, camelina oils, shea butter,

[0106] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen in particular from esters, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of a C8-C18 fatty acid, preferably C12-C16, such as isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, esters hydroxylated such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates,decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, , hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as lactate isostearyl, diisostearyl malate;,

[0107] - hydrogenated esters of natural oils such as jojoba esters and rapeseed esters, - polyesters of polyols other than fatty acid triglycerides, in particular pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, or Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate such as LEXFEEL 700 MB marketed by the company INOLEX with the INCI name polyester-4,

[0108] - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures,

[0109] - diesters of C2-C16 dicarboxylic acid, preferably C8-C12, and C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably C3-C4 branched monoalcohol; preferably the diester of sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol such as diisopropyl sebacate marketed under the name DUB DIS by the company Stéarineries Dubois or marketed under the name Schercemol DIS ester by LUBRIZOL,

[0110] - butylene glycol diesters such as butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate marketed under the name Miglyol 8810.

[0111] - sucrose esters such as sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name Sustane SAIB by EASTMAN,

[0112] - phytosterols marketed under the name TECHNOL SD by YOKOZEKI

[0113] - resins such as Shorea Robusta resinous exudates marketed under the name Kahlresin 6723 by KAHLWAX,

[0114] - natural diglycerin esters with medium-chain fatty acids such as BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 marketed under the name SOFTISAN 649 by IOI OLEO,

[0115] - perfume substances.

[0116] Polar oils (H2) can be chosen from so-called perfume substances, i.e. odoriferous, capable of giving off a pleasant odor and which can be used in perfumes.

[0117] Preferably, the fragrance substance is a natural or synthetic substance, more preferably natural. More preferably, it is chosen from essential oils, terpenes and terpenoids.

[0118] The term "terpenes" refers to hydrocarbons whose basic element is isoprene, their molecular formula containing a number of carbon atoms that is a multiple of 5, in particular terpenes containing 10 or 15 carbon atoms, used in perfumery.

[0119] Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes, such as alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, esters, or ethers. Terpenes and terpenoids are found in essential oils, which are the concentrated, fragrant, volatile liquids produced by plants.

[0120] Essential oils are most often extracted from plant organs by hydrodistillation.

[0121] In particular, the following natural hydrophobic perfuming substances can be used:

[0122] - terpenes: pinenes, camphenes, limonene, cadinene, carene, caryophyllene, linalool alcohols, geraniol, menthol, citronellol,

[0123] - ketones: menthone, carvone, beta-ionone, thujone, camphor, cyclopentadecanone, aldehydes citral, citrannal, citronellal, cinnamic aldehyde, lilial,

[0124] - esters: linalyl acetate, menthyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl succinate, phenols thymol, carvacrol, eugenol, isoeugenol, ethers: anethole, eucalyptol, cineol, rose oxide,

[0125] - alkenes: limonene.

[0126] Essential oils can be ylang-ylang, bergamot, eucalyptus, lavender, lavandin, lemongrass, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rose, coriander, Shiu, sage, geranium, palmarosa, LitseaCubeba, lemon, lemongrass, orange blossom, grapefruit, lime, mandarin, tangerine, orange, cajuput, camphor, rosemary, anise, star anise, fennel, basil, tarragon, clove, chili, thyme, sassafras, wormwood, mugwort, cedarwood, hyssop, tagetes, rue, elemi, galbanum, juniper berry, cabreuva, wood guaiac, sandalwood, vetiver, ambrette, angelica, iris rhizome, carrot, celery, cumin, lovage, parsley, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, pepper, frankincense, myrrh, Peruvian balsam, styrax, buchu, chamomile or cistus (Jean Garnero, "Essential Oils",Engineering techniques, Treatise on physicochemical constants, K-345).,

[0127] - their mixtures.

[0128] Additional non-polar oils (H3)

[0129] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional apolar oils (H3), distinct from the aforementioned polar oils.

[0130] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" means an oil whose ÔP parameter as defined above is less than 2 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 , preferably an ôp less than 1, even better less than 0.5.

[0131] Non-polar oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0132] Non-volatile apolar oils

[0133] Among the non-volatile apolar oils, we can cite for example hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - squalane, phytosqualane and their mixtures.

[0134] - esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleyl diol dimers marketed under the names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® by the company Nippon Fine Chemical,

[0135] - copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA marketed by KOKAYA ALCOHOL,

[0136] - esters of a dimer diol and a dimer diacid, where appropriate esterified on their free or acid alcohol function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen in particular from esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / lsostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl / lsostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H) marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICALS,

[0137] - polybutenes such as, for example, INDOPOL H-100 (having a molar mass of 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (having a molar mass of 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (having a molar mass of 2160 g / mol) marketed by the company INEOS,

[0138] Volatile non-polar oils

[0139] The volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane; volatile linear alkanes having C9-C17, C10-C14 hydrocarbon chains, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® Ultimate; alkanes having C15-C19 hydrocarbon chains such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15, alkanes having C12-14 hydrocarbon chains, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC, or alkanes having C9-C12 hydrocarbon chains such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

[0140] Preferably the apolar oil (H3) is chosen from volatile apolar oils, even better the apolar oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular alkanes having hydrocarbon chains from C9 to C19.

[0141] In a preferred embodiment, the apolar oil is squalane.

[0142] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the apolar oil (H3) is chosen from esters of a diol dimer and a diacid dimer.

[0143] Preferably, the content by weight of polar oil, in particular oils (H1) and (H2) in the composition, is predominant compared to that of apolar oil (H3). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 40% by weight of apolar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than 30% by weight, in particular less than 20% by weight, even better less than 10% by weight of apolar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, or even the composition is free of apolar oil (H3).

[0144] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional non-volatile or volatile polar (H2) or apolar (H3) oil chosen from:

[0145] • linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular squalane, isododecane, undecane, or tridecane,

[0146] • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, in particular cranberry oil, camellia oil, sunflower oil, chia oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, hibiscus oil;

[0147] • fatty acid esters and ethers; Camellia esters, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Miglyol 8810), diisopropyl sebacate (Schercemol DIS ESTER);

[0148] • polyol esters and in particular pentaerythritol esters, in particular LEXFEEL 700 (Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate), or mixtures thereof.

[0149] Preferred O / W emulsions

[0150] According to embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one polar oil (H1) chosen from octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof, and at least one additional polar oil (H2), in particular non-volatile, chosen from Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Camellia oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, cranberry oil, and optionally a non-polar oil (H3) chosen from squalane, alkanes, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, bis-behenyl / lsostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / lsostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H) or a fragrance.

[0151] According to embodiments, the composition comprises from 70% to 87% by weight, in particular from 75% to 80% by weight, of a polar oil (H1), preferably of fatty acid triglyceride, in particular of triheptanoin, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] According to embodiments, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% of an additional polar oil (H2), preferably polyol esters, in particular pentaerythritol esters, in particular Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, relative to the total weight of the composition.According to embodiments, for example when the composition is a non-therapeutic skin care composition, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 60 to 80% by weight of the composition; in particular from 65 to 75% by weight of the composition; at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 0 to 20% by weight of the composition; in particular from 1 to 10% of the composition and optionally a non-polar oil (H3), representing from 0 to 10% by weight of the composition; in particular from 1 to 5% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition is a perfume composition, it comprises: at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 25 to 60% by weight of the composition; in particular from 27 to 57% by weight of the composition; at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 10 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 15 to 35% of the composition, and optionally an apolar oil (H3), representing from 6 to 30% by weight of the composition; in particular from 8 to 15% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] According to a first preferred embodiment, the perfume composition according to the invention comprises: at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 25 to 35% by weight of the composition; in particular from 27 to 32% by weight of the composition; at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 20 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 25 to 35% of the composition, and optionally an apolar oil (H3), representing from 10 to 30% by weight of the composition; in particular from 15 to 25% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] According to a second preferred embodiment, when the composition is a perfume composition, it comprises: at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 28 to 60% by weight of the composition; in particular from 29 to 57% by weight of the composition; at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 15 to 35% by weight of the composition; in particular from 16 to 32% of the composition, and optionally an apolar oil (H3), representing from 8 to 15% by weight of the composition; in particular from 9 to 13% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Quite surprisingly, the applicant observed that the formulation of perfumes in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, which comprises an Apollonian oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, contributes to improving the persistence of the perfume.

[0157] According to other embodiments, for example when the composition is a makeup composition, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 20 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 25 to 35% by weight of the composition; at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 10 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 15 to 30% of the composition and optionally an apolar oil (H3), representing from 15 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 20 to 35% of the composition. it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] According to embodiments, the oil phase of the composition comprises triheptanoin, capric / caprylic triglycerides, octyldodecanol, dicapryl carbonate or a mixture thereof and the emulsifying system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

[0159] Aqueous continuous phase

[0160] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous continuous phase. The weight content of the aqueous phase is very small compared to that of the oily phase.

[0161] The aqueous continuous phase preferably comprises water, preferably demineralized.

[0162] Preferably, the aqueous continuous phase contains the emulsifying system, preferably solubilized. The aqueous phase, including the emulsifying system, represents at most 30% by weight, in particular at most 25% by weight, and more particularly at most 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] It represents in particular from 13% to 30% by weight of the weight of the composition, in particular from 15% to 25% by weight.

[0164] Other ingredients in the composition

[0165] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one ingredient chosen from a cosmetic active ingredient, a perfume, a coloring matter, a humectant, a filler, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a UV filter, a film-forming agent or a thickening agent, or a mixture thereof.

[0166] Cosmetic active ingredient

[0167] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having a biological activity and having an effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabrat extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, rye seed extract), extracts of yeasts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.

[0168] Said active agent may be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0169] Scent

[0170] The cosmetic composition may include a perfume. This may be chosen from the perfume substances cited among the polar oils (H2), as indicated above.

[0171] Coloring matter

[0172] The composition may also comprise at least one coloring material chosen from the group comprising water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, particles having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition, such as pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert inorganic support), and mixtures thereof.

[0173] These colorants may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as fatty acid soaps, lecithins, carnauba waxes, chitosan, and optionally acylated amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate, and aluminum acyl glutamate.

[0174] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0.005% to 1% of colorants, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Pigments can be inorganic or organic and natural or synthetic.

[0176] Examples of inorganic pigments include iron, titanium or zinc oxides, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, manganese violet, chromium oxide, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, but this list is not limiting.

[0177] Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of Red 7, Red 6, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30, Red 33, Red 36, carbon black, lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or even diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0178] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 30% of pigments, preferably from 2% to 20%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Pearlescent agents can be chosen from those traditionally present in makeup products, such as mica / titanium dioxide-based products. They can also be mica / silica / titanium dioxide-based products, synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide-based products (Sunshine® from Maprecos), sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide-based products (Reflecks® from Engelhard) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide-based products (Ronastar® from Merck).

[0180] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 20% of mother-of-pearl, preferably from 0% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] Just like fillers, cosmetic materials are advantageously presented in powder form.

[0182] Humectant

[0183] A humectant is understood to mean a compound comprising at least two hydrophilic groups, i.e. groups which form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, such as, for example, hydroxyl, amine and / or carboxyl groups. A suitable humectant in the cosmetic composition of the invention is in particular chosen from the group comprising polyols, sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, monoalcohols such as ethanol. Among the polyols, mention may in particular be made of glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, propanediol, methyl propanediol.

[0184] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the humectant is a polyol, in particular glycerol.

[0185] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 10% of humectant, preferably from 1% to 6% of humectant, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] Charge

[0187] Filler means colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, solid particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic shape (e.g. sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). The fillers may consist of several layers of different chemical nature and / or physical shape and may be made in the form of lamellae coated with spherical fillers. They may be modified using different surface treatments.

[0188] The filler that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is chosen from the group comprising mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, sericite, cellulose beads, glass beads, starch, starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 25% of filler, preferably from 2% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] The fillers are advantageously presented in powder form.

[0191] Preservative

[0192] The cosmetic composition may also comprise a preservative, in particular chosen from the group comprising phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, parabens such as methylparaben or propylparaben, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 2% of preservative, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Sequestering agent

[0194] The composition of the invention may also comprise a sequestering agent, such as salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives.

[0195] UV filter

[0196] The composition of the invention may further comprise a UV filter chosen from the group comprising organic filters, inorganic filters and their mixtures.

[0197] Examples of organic filters that may be mentioned include dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, p,p-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles, benzoxazole derivatives, aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives and / or anthranilic derivatives.

[0198] The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds:

[0199] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

[0200] Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

[0201] Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol

[0202] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

[0203] Tris-biphenyl triazine

[0204] Phenylenes bis-diphenyltriazine

[0205] 2,4-bis[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine Ethylhexyl triazone,

[0206] Diethylhexyl butamido triazone

[0207] Ethylhexyl salicylate,

[0208] Homosalate

[0209] Octocrylene,

[0210] Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0211] Examples of inorganic filters include filters based on inorganic oxides in the form of pigments or nanopigments which may or may not be coated, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

[0212] Film-forming agent The composition of the invention may comprise one or more film-forming agent(s).

[0213] They can be chosen from:

[0214] - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, in particular chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, elemis, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii marketed under the name FILMEXEL by SILAB, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Said film-forming agent may be present in a content of the order of 0 to 50%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Gelling agent

[0217] The composition of the invention may comprise one or more gelling and / or thickening agents for the aqueous phase, chosen for example from cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, hydrophilic or amphiphilic homo- and copolymers of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate).

[0218] Said gelling and / or thickening agent of the aqueous phase may be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0219] The composition of the invention may comprise one or more gelling and / or thickening agents for the oily phase, chosen for example from ethylcellulose; polyamides, bentones, galactommanans such as guar gum, N-acyl glutamic acid diamides such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, dextrin esters such as dextrin palmitate, polymers derived from castor oil sold under the name Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer or Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, sucrose polyesters such as glyceryl behenate eicosadioate.

[0220] Said gelling and / or thickening agent of the oily phase will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0221] Examples of additives that can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the invention are described in particular in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and in the Handbook published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition, 2002”. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary usual cosmetic ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0222] The composition of the invention is in the form of a stable fluid oil-in-water emulsion, with a homogeneous appearance.

[0223] Stable means an emulsion that does not release water or oil and that remains in its initial form, even when exposed to ovens at a temperature between 5°C and 45°C for 3 months.

[0224] A homogeneous appearance means an emulsion whose surface is smooth and uniform to the naked eye.

[0225] The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for cleaning, non-therapeutic care and / or makeup of the skin or lips.

[0226] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, characterized in that it consists of applying to the skin or lips a composition as defined above.

[0227] Process for preparing the composition according to the invention

[0228] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of: i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, in particular at a speed of between 150 rpm and 1000 rpm, in particular between 150 rpm and 600 rpm; iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring, of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase and obtain an increase in viscosity up to a maximum value of less than 2 Pa.s, leading to a fluid composition, said viscosity being measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 .

[0229] In step i), the aqueous phase may be prepared by mixing the emulsifying system with any optional ingredients present in the aqueous phase, preferably at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 70°C.

[0230] In step ii), the aqueous phase is stirred and maintained at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 70°C. Agitation can be carried out in particular using a bidirectional three-bladed mixer. The oily phase can be prepared by mixing the oil(s) with any optional ingredients, in particular at a temperature between 18 and 75°C. The mixture can be stirred and maintained at a temperature between 20 and 70°C. This process can be transposed to an industrial scale with a Trimix.

[0231] In step iii), depending on the quantities of emulsion to be prepared, the oily phase can be injected into the aqueous phase using a syringe pump or a peristaltic pump so as to obtain a discontinuous flow rate, of the regular and slow drop-by-drop type.

[0232] It has been observed by the applicant that such an addition, carried out discontinuously, of the regular and slow drop-by-drop type, is important in order to be able to obtain an Apollonian emulsion. Thus, the process of the present invention differs from certain processes known in the prior art for the production of HIPE emulsions in which the addition of the dispersed phase is carried out continuously and leads to much thicker textures than the Apollonian emulsions which are the subject of the present invention.

[0233] For example, to prepare 400g of Apollonian emulsion comprising 83% by weight of dispersed oily phase, the oily phase can be injected into the aqueous phase using a peristaltic pump with a flow rate of 9 L / h, with a 16mm diameter tubing.

[0234] In the context of the invention, it is the oily dispersed phase which is added at a constant discontinuous flow rate into the aqueous continuous phase. This process is also distinguished from prior art processes in which H / W type HIPE emulsions are obtained by discontinuous addition of the aqueous phase into the oily phase, then inversion of phases under vigorous stirring which also leads to an increase in the firmness of the compositions and does not allow fluid compositions to be obtained.

[0235] According to a preferred embodiment, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring step at a stirring speed higher than the stirring speed used in step ii) and / or iii).

[0236] In particular, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring step at a stirring speed greater than approximately 6000 rpm, preferably greater than 8000 rpm, and more preferably greater than 10,000 rpm.

[0237] Indeed, without being bound by any theory, it was observed by the applicant during its research work that an excessively high stirring speed when adding the oily phase to the aqueous phase or after the formation of the emulsion led to a thickening of the composition, so as to no longer obtain a desired fluid emulsion.

[0238] Thus, in order to be able to obtain a fluid emulsion, it is important not to significantly increase the stirring speed of the emulsion resulting from step iii) and, more particularly, not to exceed 6000 rpm, preferably 8000 rpm, and more preferably 10,000 rpm.

[0239] Process parameters such as stirring speed or oil phase injection rate can be easily adjusted by those skilled in the art depending on the production volumes and / or the equipment used.

[0240] On a macroscopic scale, the Apollonian emulsion formed appears as an opaque, white (in the absence of colorants or pigments), smooth and shiny emulsion with the appearance of milk which transforms upon application, becoming transparent.

[0241] The formation of the Apollonian emulsion can be determined or confirmed by examining the polydispersity of the droplets of the oily dispersed phase under a microscope.

[0242] The Apollonian emulsion is generally characterized by droplets with spherical geometry, without apparent deformation.

[0243] The compositions according to the invention are generally polydisperse, that is to say that the size of the droplets of the emulsion is very variable.

[0244] The granulometer gives the different values ​​of droplet diameter D10, D50 and D90 where by droplet diameter D10 is meant the droplet diameter for which 90% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter greater than or equal to this value, and by D90 is meant the droplet diameter for which 10% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter greater than this value.

[0245] In other words, the granulometer gives the different values ​​of droplet diameter D10, D50 and D90 where D10 represents the droplet diameter for which 10% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter equal to or less than this value, and by D90 is meant the droplet diameter for which 90% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter less than this value.

[0246] Span is a measure of the width of the droplet diameter distribution.

[0247] Span is defined according to the following equation:

[0248] Span = (D90 - D10) / D50

[0249] If the Span is close to 0, it means that the droplet size is homogeneous and the emulsion is monodisperse.

[0250] If the span is greater than 1, this means that the size of the droplets is heterogeneous and therefore the emulsion is polydisperse.

[0251] According to embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are characterized by a span > 1. This granulometry can be studied in particular using laser diffraction, for example with a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 Static Light Scattering device.

[0252] According to embodiments, the volume particle size distribution of the compositions according to the invention comprises droplet sizes ranging from: 600 nm to 1000 pm, for care and perfume compositions; 300 nm to 1000 pm, for makeup compositions.

[0253] According to preferred embodiments, the particle size distribution of the compositions according to the invention can be measured by volume.

[0254] The volume particle size distribution makes it possible to assess another characteristic of the compositions according to the invention: the multimodal nature of the droplet size distribution.

[0255] A multimodal distribution is a distribution exhibiting multiple modes, that is, multiple local maxima of the distribution.

[0256] Such a multimodal distribution reflects a population composed of several distinct subpopulations of droplets, having different diameters.

[0257] According to embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and multimodal.

[0258] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and bi- or tri-modal.

[0259] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and bimodal.

[0260] The following examples are given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the present invention.

[0261] Examples

[0262] Materials and Methods

[0263] Measurement of viscosity of emulsions

[0264] Viscosity measurement is carried out with the RM 100 TOUCH CP 2000 viscometer from Lamy Rheology, a rotary viscometer equipped with a cone-plate whose characteristics are a 40mm diameter cone, 4° angle + 40mm plate. The accuracy is + / - 1% of full scale with a repeatability of + / - 0.2%. The measurement is carried out at a shear of 100s. -1 , temperature 20°C, finished product control standard. Viscosity varies with temperature and, more precisely, it increases as the temperature decreases. Therefore, in order to be able to make meaningful comparisons, it is important to measure the viscosity of emulsions at a constant temperature of 20°C.

[0265] Handling:

[0266] Attach the flat cone mobile to the device.

[0267] On the plan, place a spatula tip of product in the center of the circle.

[0268] Lower the measuring head gently so that the cone crushes the product. I II should always have a slight surplus of product overflowing from the cone-plane surface.

[0269] In the main menu, press "Measurement". Two modes are possible: "Manual" and "Automatic" - Manual: enter the different desired parameters in the corresponding boxes (measuring system, speed, time) and click on - Auto: Choose the predefined program from the drop-down list and start the measurement.

[0270] During the measurement, several parameters are displayed live: viscosity (mPa.s), torque (mN.m), speed gradient (s -1 ), temperature (°C), measuring system and time (s).

[0271] Measurement of the texture of emulsions

[0272] The measurement of the texture of emulsions is carried out with the SMS TA-TX PLUS TEXUROMETER by the company MicroStable System, equipped with a hemispherical probe with the morphology of a finger (P / 0.5HS) at 20°C. It allows the firmness of emulsions to be characterized.

[0273] The measurement involves 2 steps:

[0274] Step 1: The emulsion is poured into a 60 ml cylindrical jar. The probe comes into contact with the surface of the product at a speed of 1 mm. s -1 , penetrates 10mm. The device measures the response force exerted by the product during descent. The maximum of this force defines the firmness.

[0275] Step 2: The probe rises (1 mm. s -1 ) and the device measures the response force exerted by the product. The maximum of this force (represented in negative on the measurement curve) defines the cohesion.

[0276] The higher the values, the firmer the emulsions.

[0277] Measurement of particle size (polydispersity) A quantitative characterization of the droplet size distribution was carried out by static light scattering using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 Static Light Scattering. This method allows the size of a particle to be measured as a function of its size, its optical index and that of the dispersant. From the spatial distribution of the intensity scattered by a set of particles, it is possible to trace the size distribution of the sample.

[0278] In order to avoid the phenomenon of multiple diffusion, the formula is first diluted in the external phase to reach internal phase volume fractions of the order of 1 / 20. This diluted emulsion is then introduced into the 7mL volume measuring cell filled with water. An obscuration rate between 1% and 12% must be obtained to ensure the viability of the measurements. Stirring in the cell is set at 500 rpm for good dispersion of the sample.

[0279] Microscope observation

[0280] Microscopic observations are carried out with the LEICA DMLB Optical Microscope and the photos taken with the Leica camera and recovered by screenshot with the Leica LAS application.

[0281] A small amount of product is taken with a spatula and then carefully placed and spread on the slide. This observation is made at X100 magnification (x10 eyepiece and x10 objective), first without a coverslip, then the operation is repeated with a coverslip which is just gently placed on the product (no pressure is exerted otherwise the globular structure will be modified).

[0282] Observation must be rapid because the Apollonian emulsion quickly transforms into a thin layer in air.

[0283] The micro drop of white emulsion deposited on the slide will transform to become transparent, a phenomenon induced by the air, the temperature and the support.

[0284] Stability of emulsions

[0285] The product is stored as follows:

[0286] - in an 80 ml syrup bottle at room temperature (RT).

[0287] - in 30 ml glass pill bottles for lab tests: 3 months at 45°C, 5°C and RT.

[0288] Containers must be filled by pouring (not by syringe or pipette). The filling must be between the lower and upper edge of the container's shoulder.

[0289] Follow-up physical stability checks are carried out at the following times: at D0, D3, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months for all temperatures and the appearance is observed. The formula is said to be stable if its appearance has a homogeneous aspect. The formula is said to be unstable if a change in appearance such as separation and / or cloudiness is observed.

[0290] Example 1: Formulations F008 (A) and (B) for skin care

[0291] The formulations in Table 1 were prepared using the following cold process.

[0292] The fatty and aqueous phases were prepared separately by mixing the different ingredients contained in each of these phases (see Table 1 below).

[0293] Aqueous phase: the hydrophilic ingredients are weighed one by one into a large beaker and then stirred magnetically until completely dissolved; the phase is perfectly clear and homogeneous.

[0294] Oily phase: the lipophilic ingredients are weighed one by one into a large beaker and then stirred magnetically until completely dissolved; the phase is perfectly clear and homogeneous.

[0295] Weighings are preferably carried out from the smallest quantity to the largest.

[0296] The aqueous phase was then placed in a container and kept under agitation with a bidirectional three-bladed rotor (500 rpm). The fatty phase was then introduced via a 16 diameter tubing into the aqueous phase by means of a peristaltic pump, via a capillary, discontinuously and with a flow rate of 9000 mL / h to form the emulsion.

[0297] It could be observed that at the beginning of emulsification, medium-sized droplets are formed and consume the surfactant present in solution, then reorganize due to the lack of surfactant to create larger and smaller droplets through coalescence / fragmentation to form an emulsion of polydisperse droplets.

[0298] Incorporation takes up to 3 (2mn45) minutes, complete emulsion takes 15 to 30 minutes to produce 400g of Apollonian emulsion.

[0299] Table 1

[0300] Macroscopic appearance of emulsions F008(A) and F008(B):

[0301] The resulting emulsions are fluid (they flow under their own weight), white, shiny, smooth and homogeneous. The firmness value measured by the texturometer is low, which indicates a more fluid texture than a cream in a pot.

[0302] Microscopic appearance of emulsions F008(A) and F008(B):

[0303] The emulsion is observed under a microscope (see Fig. [1]). It can be noted that the coverslip exerts a constraint on the stacking of the globules and tends to increase the size of the globules. It can be seen that the globules are spherical unlike a classic HIPE where the globules are deformed into polyhedra.

[0304] Granulometric analysis of emulsions F008(A) and F008(B):

[0305] The particle size distribution of droplet sizes of emulsions F008(A) and F008(B) is shown in [Fig. 2] (droplet density measured by volume).

[0306] Droplets with sizes ranging from 600 nm to 400 pm are observed, with three populations of droplets, those with a size between 5 and 100 pm (2nd peak in [Fig. 2]) being much larger. The calculated span is greater than 1. The emulsion is therefore polydisperse, trimodal and has spherical globules.

[0307] Example 2: F018 Formulations for Skin Care

[0308] Formulation F18 in Table 2 below was prepared using the same protocol as that used in Example 1.

[0309] Table 2

[0310] The particle size analysis of the emulsion obtained is shown in [Fig. 3]. A polydisperse distribution of droplets with sizes ranging from 600 nm to 1000 pm is observed. The distribution is notably trimodal, with a first population whose droplet size is between 600 nm and 3 pm, a second population whose droplet size is between 3 and 30 pm and a third population whose droplet size is between 400 and 1000 pm. Those with a size between 3 and 30 pm (2nd peak of [Fig. 3]) are much larger. The Span is 1.477. The emulsion is therefore polydisperse, trimodal and has spherical globules.

[0311] The firmness is around 4g, which corresponds to a very fluid texture.

[0312] Example 3: Formulation for perfume The formulation in Table 3 below was prepared according to the same protocol as that implemented in Example 1.

[0313] Table 3 The emulsion is observed under a microscope (see [Fig. 4]). The droplets are spherical.

[0314] The granulometric analysis of the emulsion obtained is shown in [Fig. 5],

[0315] A polydisperse distribution of droplets with sizes ranging from 700 nm to 400 pm is observed. Three peaks are observed, i.e. a trimodal distribution comprising three populations of droplets: a first population with a droplet size between 700 nm and 3 pm, a second population with a droplet size between 3 and 30 pm and a third population with a droplet size between 100 and 400 pm. Those with a size between 3 and 30 pm (2nd peak in [Fig. 5]) are much larger. The Span is 1.309. The emulsion is therefore polydisperse and trimodal.

[0316] It is very fluid as a result of its low viscosity of 238 mPa.s and low firmness factor.

[0317] Example 4: Formulation for scented products The formulation in Table 4 below was prepared according to the same protocol as that implemented in Example 1.

[0318] Table 4

[0319] The emulsion is very fluid despite the high oil phase content and has low firmness.

Claims

Claims 1. Fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant; a dispersed oily phase; an aqueous continuous phase, in which: the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and the viscosity of the emulsion is less than 2 Pa.s, preferably 1.5 Pa.s, in particular 1 Pa.s, and in particular 0.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 , the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a firmness of less than 14g, preferably between 1g and 14g, in particular between 2g and 10g, in particular between 3g and 6g.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in which the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 45, in particular greater than 100, in particular greater than 120.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of the emulsifying system is less than 2% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one surfactant is ionic or non-ionic.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one surfactant has an HLB of between 10 and 18.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant is chosen from fatty acid and glycerol esters, alkylglucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, geminates or mixtures thereof.

8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the fatty acid and glycerol esters are selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate or distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one polar oil.

10. Composition according to claim 9, in which the oily phase further comprises an apolar oil, the weight content of polar oil in the oily phase being greater than that of apolar oil.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 9 or 10, in which the content by weight of polar oil represents at least 45%, preferably from 45% to 87% by weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, in which said at least one polar oil is chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides, or di-alkyl carbonate.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof and the emulsifying system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsion is polydisperse, preferably polydisperse and multimodal, more preferably polydisperse and bi- or tri-modal.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition further comprises one or more ingredients chosen from a cosmetic active ingredient, a perfume, a humectant, a filler, a coloring matter, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a UV filter, a film-forming agent and / or a gelling agent.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cleaning composition, a non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, a perfume or a makeup composition.

17. Process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising the steps of: i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, in particular at a speed of between 150 and 1000 rpm, in particular between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm; iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring, of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase and obtain an increase in viscosity up to a maximum value of less than 2 Pa.s, leading to a fluid composition, said viscosity being measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 , and the content of said oily phase being at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Images