Compositions comprising combinations of biopolymers

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions for cosmetic application, including hair and skin cleaning and care compositions, that comprise a mixture of biopolymers, namely at least two of tara gum, algin, and xanthan, as well as water, at least one hydrophobic component and at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient, optionally in specific amounts and ratios, wherein said biopolymers serve as 5 rheology modifiers to thicken and texturize said compositions. Also encompassed are uses and processes of use of the compositions disclosed.

Description

[0001] COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING COMBINATIONS OF BIOPOLYMERS

[0002] Field of the Invention

[0003] The present invention relates to compositions for cosmetic application, including hair and skin cleaning and care compositions, that comprise a mixture of biopolymers, namely any two of tara gum, algin, konjac gum, and xanthan, as well as water, at least one hydrophobic component as defined herein, and at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient, optionally in specific amounts and ratios, with the biopolymers serving as rheology modifiers to thicken and texturize said compositions.

[0004] Background of the Invention

[0005] Cosmetic and personal care compositions containing substantial amounts of water typically comprise one or more thickeners or rheology modifiers. These serve the purpose to ensure a sufficiently high viscosity and to provide for the texture and usability expected by the consumers. To ensure that these compositions have an aesthetically pleasing appearance and texture under various conditions, a variety of thickeners and rheology modifiers are used, the amounts and ratios of which need to be carefully balanced to provide for the desired properties.

[0006] To date, many of the existing products on the market use synthetic polymeric thickeners, for example polyacrylates. While these provide for good stabilization and allow fine control of rheological properties, there is a general trend and demand for more natural components that are made from renewable resources and have good biodegradability. While various compounds that can be used for such purposes and meet these requirements are known and used in the field, many of them sufferfrom lower performance compared to the commonly used synthetic compounds. Furthermore, they are often more susceptible to various environmental influences that lead to degradation and break-down and thus negatively impact composition appearance and texture.

[0007] There is thus still need in the art for rheology modifying systems that on the one hand provide good performance in that they provide for good viscosity control, appearance, stability and texture, and on the other hand meet the demand for environmentally friendly and sustainable materials that are obtainable from renewable sources and readily biodegradable.

[0008] Summary of the Invention

[0009] The present invention provides a rheology modifier system that meets this need. The inventors have surprisingly found that combinations of any two or more of tara gum, xanthan gum, konjac gum, and algin can advantageously be used to control rheology in a variety of personal care compositions that comprise hydrophobic components, such as hair shampoos, shower gels, face cleansing gel, skin care fluids, serums, hydrodispersions, gels, conditioning lotion and creams or sun care lotion and cream gels, while providing for a smooth and aesthetically pleasing texture.

[0010] In a first aspect, the present invention is therefore directed to a composition suitable for a cosmetic application comprising a) at least two of (a1) tara gum, (a2) xanthan gum, (a3) algin, and (a4) konjac gum b) water; and c) optionally at least one hydrophobic component selected from the group consisting of emollients, consistency agents, and effect substances; and d) at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from (a) to (c); wherein the relative amount of each component comprised in the composition is not higher than 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] In another aspect the present invention is directed to the use of the inventive compositions for application to keratinous materials, such as human skin and hair, in particular for hair and skin care.

[0012] In still another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for styling or conditioning hair, cleaning skin or achieving caring effects to skin, comprising contacting the hair or skin with the inventive composition.

[0013] Brief description of the drawing

[0014] Figure 1 is a ternary plot showing the compositions that have the desirable properties as the white area. The corners of the ternary plots represent 100% by weight (=1 on the respective edge of the triangle) tara gum (Tar), algin (Alg) and konjac gum (Glu). The edges of the triangles of the ternary plots are linearly scaled and they represent the binary mixtures. This means, that the edge designated “Tar” in the figures goes from 100 % tara gum (=1) over 90 % tara gum and 10 % algin (= 0.9), 80 % tara gum and 20 % algin (=0.8), etc. to 0 % tara gum and 100 % algin (=0). The numbers thus represent the fraction of 1 (=100 %), with 0.1 being 10%, 0.2 being 20 % etc. The white areas represent the areas having the desired properties (texture, stability, viscosity), while the grey areas represent the areas in which the mixtures have less desirable properties. Ternary plots are known to those skilled in the art and, for example, explained in detail under “ternary plot” at Wikipedia.org (English version).

[0015] In Figure 1 each point of the white area represents a composition of the claimed ternary system which has the desired properties (stability rated 1 -3 on a scale of 1 -5 with 1 = most stable and 5 = unstable and viscosity in the range of 10000 to 32000 mPa.s and texture in the range of 1-2.5 on a scale of 1 to 5 with 1 = smooth texture and 5 = gelled or blocky texture).

[0016] Detailed Description

[0017] The term “at least one”, as used herein, relates to 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or more. If used herein in relation to any component, said term refers to the number of chemically different entities that fall under the definition of said component, but not to the total number of molecules. “At least one hydrophobic component”, for example, thus means that at least one type of specific hydrophobic component is included, but that also two or more different types of hydrophobic components may be present in the composition.

[0018] “At least one of X and Y”, as used herein, means that only one of the two types of compounds X and Y needs to be present, i.e. either at least one X or at least one Y. However, it also covers embodiments in which both types of compounds are present. Numeric values specified herein without decimal places refer to the full value specified with one decimal place if not stated otherwise. For example, “60 %” means 60.0 %, if not stated otherwise.

[0019] All percentages given herein relate to % by weight if not explicitly indicated otherwise. The value always relates to the total weight of the composition if not indicated otherwise.

[0020] The expression “about”, if used herein in relation to a numerical value, means said value ±10%, typically ±5%.

[0021] Numeric ranges specified in the format “(in / from) x to y” include the values specified. If several preferred ranges are given in this format, all ranges resulting from the different possible combinations of the different endpoints are also intended to be encompassed by the present invention.

[0022] “Free of’, as used herein, may mean that the respective component is not purposively added and thus only present in minor amounts, for example in form of impurities or degradation products. In various embodiments, “free of’ thus means that the respective compound or group of compounds is present in amounts less than 0.5 wt.-%, less than 0.1 wt.-%, or less than 0.01 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, this may mean that the respective compound is not detectable in a given composition by commonly applied measurements.

[0023] “Consisting essentially of’, as used herein, means that the referenced components form at least 50 %, preferably at least 60, 70, 80 or 90 % by weight of the total composition weight.

[0024] All parameters of a composition referred to herein, such as pH, viscosity, etc. are given under standard conditions, i.e. at 20°C and standard pressure (1 atm, 101 .325 kPa), if not explicitly indicated otherwise.

[0025] In the context of the present invention, the term “rheology modifier” is understood to mean substances that alter the deformation and flow properties of material. This term includes organic or inorganic compounds, usually macromolecules, which alter the intermolecular forces through formation of cohesion (intramolecular) or adhesion (intermolecular) in such a way that the viscosity of the coherent phase of the formulation is preferably increased.

[0026] If reference is made to charged compounds, it is understood that these may be used in the corresponding salt form and may thus include a common counterion for said charged entity. The counterions for anions are typically metal ions, such alkaline metal ions, in particular sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metal ions, such as magnesium or calcium ions. Counterions for cations include anions selected from halogen ions, such as chloride, as well as sulfate, phosphate and the like.

[0027] These and other aspects, features, embodiments, and advantages of the invention become apparent to the skilled person from the following detailed description and claims. Each feature or embodiment from one aspect of the invention similarly applies to any other aspect, if not explicitly indicated otherwise. For example, this means that all aspects and embodiments disclosed herein in relation to the compositions similarly apply to the claimed uses and methods and vice versa. Furthermore, the examples provided are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention.

[0028] The present invention is based on the inventors’ surprising finding that the combined use of any two of tara gum, xanthan gum, konjac gum and algin can overcome some of the issues observed if using only one of them and is particularly suited for viscosity adjustment and texture control of aqueous formulations, such as hydrodispersions, including those that do not comprise emulsifiers.

[0029] For example, it has been observed that if xanthan gum alone is used as a rheology modifier, the viscosity is increased, but high thickening performance needs high concentration which in turn results in unappealing texture that may occur sticky, slimy and / or stringy and does not show the desired smooth, homogeneous texture. However, xanthan gum also has the advantages of having good transparency, requiring no neutralization, being usable for emulsions and in the presence of surfactants.

[0030] On the other hand, if algin is used alone, it requires divalent cations to activate the gel-forming properties and is highly susceptible to electrolytes as well as forms a jelly-like texture at higher concentrations. However, it has the advantage that its viscosity-inducing properties are finely tunable by addition of divalent cations and chelating agents.

[0031] If tara gum alone is used, it has good viscosity adjustment properties but weak stabilization performance in formulations and it creates a pilling effect at high concentrations. It has however advantages with having a very smooth and natural flow behavior and creating highly homogenous texture.

[0032] Still further, if konjac gum is used alone, it has the best thickening properties of all 4 biopolymers listed herein and is highly salt resistant but is insofar challenging to use, as it needs a stabilizing partner to prevent gelling or change of texture over time and also tends to gel at higher concentrations. Also its capability to stabilize oil droplets in an emulsion is comparably low. Its texturizing properties are however better than those of xanthan gum and algin, but not as good as those of tara gum.

[0033] Of the four biopolymers algin and konjac gum have the best thickening performance, while xanthan and tara have lower thickening performance. Xanthan gum and algin provide good stabilizing properties, while tara gum and konjac gum only have very low stabilizing effects. Tara gum is however the best biopolymer with respect to its texturizing properties, with xanthan gum and algin being inferior to tara gum in this aspect.

[0034] It has now been found that the combined use of any two of the four compounds can overcome the individual drawbacks and allows to combine the advantages of the respective individual components in that the resulting compositions are stable and also show a smooth texture. The present invention is thus directed to compositions suitable for a cosmetic application (or cosmetic composition or personal care composition) comprising

[0035] (a) at least two of (a1) tara gum, (a2) xanthan gum, (a3) algin, and (a4) konjac gum

[0036] (b) water; and

[0037] (c) optionally at least one hydrophobic component selected from the group consisting of emollients, consistency agents and effect substances; and

[0038] (d) at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from (a) to (c); wherein the relative amount of each component comprised in the composition is not higher than 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The feature “wherein the relative amount of each component comprised in the composition is not higher than 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition” means that of 100 % by weight of the composition, one of (a), (b), (c), (d), and (e) can only make up to 99 wt.-% of the total weight (in which case the remainder of 1 % by weight comprises the four others). Further preferred amounts of the individual components are given herein below.

[0040] The compositions suitable for cosmetic application include personal care compositions, such as hair and skin care compositions. It is understood that the compositions described herein can also consist essentially of or consist of the listed ingredients.

[0041] “Personal care composition”, as used herein, relate to all compositions known to the person skilled in the art which are exclusively or primarily intended to be used externally on the human body or in its oral cavity for cleaning, care, protection, maintaining a good condition, perfuming, changing the appearance or for the purposes of influencing body odor. The personal care compositions may be cosmetic compositions, with these two terms being used interchangeably herein. Said compositions include formulations for body care, face care, skin care, hand care, skin cleansing and hair care as well as decorative cosmetics, e.g. hydrodispersions, serums, fluids, foundations, products for protecting against UV rays as sun gels, products for eliminating body odor such as deodorants and antiperspirants, gel washes, conditioners, and styling products. The personal care compositions of the present invention can be any of the above. Preferably, they are selected from conditioners, styling gels, body and face cleansing gel, skin care hydrodispersions, serums and fluids.

[0042] In various embodiments, the composition is suitable for application to a keratinous surface, such as human hair or skin, in particular suitable for conditioning or styling hair or is a skin care composition. In various embodiments, the composition is used for the treatment of a keratinous surfaces or material. In all instances, if reference is made herein to “keratinous surface”, this includes a keratinous material, such as human hair or skin. A “keratinous material” refers to material that comprise the fibrous (poly)peptides commonly referred to as “keratin”, typically in an amount of at least 50 % by weight, or at least 70 % by weight.. Human hair, for example, consists of about 95 % by weight keratin. “Treatment”, as used in this context, refers to care or repair effects the composition has on the keratinous surface. In various embodiments, the compositions neither are food or beverage compositions nor are suitable as such.

[0043] The personal care compositions of the invention are aqueous compositions, i.e. contain water, typically even substantial amounts of water.

[0044] In various embodiments, the water content of the compositions is at least 30 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the compositions may comprise at least at least 35, at least 40, at least 45, at least 50, at least 55 or at least 60 wt.-% water. In some embodiments, the water content may be at least 61 , 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 , 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 or 80 wt.-% water. In various embodiments the water content can be as high as 95 wt.-%, preferably up to 94, 93, 92, 91 , 90, 89, 88, 87, 86, 85, 84, 83, 82, or 81 wt.-%. In some embodiments the water content is in the range of from 65 to 90 wt.-% or 65 to 85 wt.-%, for example 65 to 80 wt.% or 67 to 75 wt.-%.

[0045] The aqueous compositions may either be single-phase compositions or be in form of dispersions, including suspensions and emulsions. Preferred dispersions are hydrodispersions. Single-phase compositions are compositions that are monophasic in that they have only a single phase, such as gels. Dispersions comprise at least two phases, a dispersed phase and a continuous phase.

[0046] If the compositions are in form of hydrodispersions, the dispersed phase is preferably homogenously distributed in the continuous phase so that there is no visible phase separation. “Hydrodispersions” are systems in which the continuous phase is a water or aqueous phase including a polymer network and the dispersed phase is an oil / hydrophobic phase. The network stabilizes the dispersed phase. Said hydrodispersions are characterized by comprising at least two separate liquid phases, the dispersed phase (e.g. in form of droplets) and a continuous phase (in which the droplets are dispersed). The dispersed phase is preferably homogenously distributed in the continuous phase so that there is no visible phase separation.

[0047] In various embodiments, all the compositions described herein have a homogenous appearance.

[0048] The compositions of the invention may include tara gum as ingredient (a1). Tara gum (INCI Caesalpinia spinosa gum; CAS 39300-88-4; European food additive number E417). Tara gum is a galactomannan that is obtained from the seeds of the tara shrub Caesalpinia spinosa which is a native of the northern regions of Africa and South America. The gum is described as having a backbone of (1 ,4)-linked p-D- mannopyranosyl units about one third of which possess a single unit side chain of (1 ,6)-linked a-D- galactopyranose. Tara gum is used as a natural thickener and stabilizer in food and cosmetic applications and commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art, such as Verdessence® Tara from BASF SE.

[0049] The compositions of the invention may include xanthan gum as ingredient (a2). Xanthan gum (INCI xanthan gum; CAS No. 11138-66-2; European food additive number E415) is a natural polysaccharide obtainable from sugar-containing substrates by use of bacteria of the order Xanthomonas. The backbone of xanthan gum is usually made from beta-(1-4)-linked D-glucose units, with every other glucose unit linked by an alpha-(1-3)-glycosidic bond to side chains comprising (partially acetylated) mannose and glucuronic acid units, with about 50% of the terminal mannose units forming a ketal with pyruvic acid. The molecular weight of xanthan gum is typically high, for example in the range of 200.000 to 2.000.000 Da. Xanthan gum is widely used as a natural thickener in food and cosmetic applications and commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art, such as Ve rd esse nee® Xanthan from BASF SE.

[0050] Algin can be component (a3) of the compositions of the invention. Algin (INCI algin; CAS (sodium alginate) 9005-38-3 / 57606-04-9; (alginic acid) 9005-32-7; European food additive number E400). Algin is typically provided in form of its sodium salt and can be isolated from brown seaweeds. It is a polymer made of alpha- L-guluronic acid and beta-D-mannuronic acid [(D-ManA(beta1-4)L-GulA(alpha1-4)]n. Algin is widely used as a natural thickener in food, animal food, fertilizer, textile printing, and pharmaceutical applications and commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art, such as Verdessence® Alginate from BASF SE.

[0051] The compositions of the invention may include konjac gum as ingredient (a4). Konjac gum (INCI glucomannan; CAS 11078-31-2; IUPAC beta(1-4)-D-gluco-D-mannoglycan; European food additive number E425). Konjac gum is widely used as a dietary supplement and food thickener and is a polymer made of p-(1 — >4)-linked D-mannose and D-glucose in a ratio of about 1.6:1. The degree of branching is about 8% through p-(1 ^6)-glucosyl linkages. It is commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art, such as Verdessence® Glucomannan from BASF SE.

[0052] All four biopolymers are readily biodegradable and have a natural origin index according to ISO 16128 of 1.

[0053] In various embodiments of the compositions of the invention, the compositions comprise at least 3 of (a1), (a2), (a3), and (a4). In some embodiments, they may comprise all four (a1)-(a4).

[0054] In various embodiments of the compositions of the invention, the compositions of the invention comprise

[0055] (1) (a1) and (a2);

[0056] (2) (a1) and (a3);

[0057] (3) (a1) and (a4);

[0058] (4) (a2) and (a3);

[0059] (5) (a2) and (a4);

[0060] (6) (a3) and (a4);

[0061] (7) (a1), (a2), and (a3);

[0062] (8) (a1), (a2), and (a4);

[0063] (9) (a1), (a3) and (a4);

[0064] (10)(a2), (a3), and (a4); or

[0065] (11)(a1), (a2), (a3) and (a4). The compositions of the invention may comprise (a3) and (a1) in a weight ratio of 6:1 to 0.5:1 , preferably 5:1 to 0.7:1.

[0066] In still further embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise (a3) and (a2) in a weight ratio of 5:1 to 1 :10, preferably 4:1 to 1 :9, more preferably about 1 :1 .

[0067] In still other embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise (a1) and (a2) in a weight ratio of 10:1 to 7:1 , preferably about 9:1.

[0068] In still another embodiment, the compositions comprise (a3), (a1) and (a2) in a weight ratio of 2.0-4:1.0- 2.0:0.8-1 .2.

[0069] In a still other embodiment, the composition comprises (a1), (a2), and (a3) in a weight ratio of 0.2-0.4:0.1- 0.3:0.4-0.6, for example about 0.3: about 0.2: about 0.5.

[0070] In various embodiments, the composition comprises

[0071] (1) (a2) and (a3) in a weight ratio of 1 :1 .5 to 4:1 , preferably 0.8:1 to 1 .2:1 ;

[0072] (2) (a1) and (a2) in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 3:1 , preferably 10:1 to 7:1 ;

[0073] (3) (a1) and (a3) in a weight ratio of 1 :6 to 2:1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :0.7;

[0074] (4) (a2) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 1 .5:1 , preferably about 10:1 to 2:1 ;

[0075] (5) (a1) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 1 .5:1 to 1 :20, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :6;

[0076] (6) (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 4:1 to 1 :4, preferably 3:1 to 1 :3;

[0077] (7) (a1), (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio within the white area of the ternary diagram of Figure 1 , preferably the white area of the ternary diagram of Figure 1 with the hatched area of Figures 3, 4, 15 and 16 of international patent publication WO 2023 / 247470 A1 being excluded; or

[0078] (8) (a1), (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio of >1 .0:0.8-1 .0:0.8-1 .0, preferably about 2:1 :1

[0079] Figure 1 shows a ternary plots of the compositions that have the desirable properties as the white area. The corners of the ternary plots represent 100% by weight (=1 on the respective edge of the triangle) of the respective component, i.e. tara gum (Tar), algin (Alg) and konjac gum (Glu). This means that the bottom edge gives the amount of konjac gum (Glu) in from 0 % (=0= to 100 % (=1) and the amount of tara gum (Tar) from 100 % (=0 on Glu scale) to 0% (=1 on Glu scale), with linear scaling and numbering for each 10 % (0.1 fraction). The low right corner means 0 % algin (and 0% konjac gum) and 100 % tara gum, indicated as 0 on the Glu edge and 1 on the Tar edge. The low left corner means 100 % konjac gum and 0 % algin (and 0% tara gum), indicated 1 on the Glu edge and 0 on the Alg edge. Each dot within the ternary plot thus unambiguously defines a ratio of the three components. For example the dot in the geometric middle of the plot indicates 0.33 of each of tara gum, konjac gum and algin. The other dots in the plot therefore indicate 60 % tara gum, and 20 % each of konjac and algin, 50 % tara gum, and 25 % each of xanthan gum and algin, 60 % algin and 20 % each of konjac gum and tara gum, 50 % algin and 25 % of each tara gum and konjac gum, 60 % konjac gum and 20 % of each tara gum and algin, and 50 % konjac gum and 25 % of each tara gum and algin. The angles of the grid lines indicate which grid line belongs to which value, i.e. the horizontal lines belong to algin, the lines from bottom right to upper left belong to konjac gum, the lines from bottom left to upper right belong to tara gum.

[0080] It has been found that, if used in these combinations and weight ratios, particularly desirable properties with respect to texture and viscosity as well as stability of the composition can be achieved.

[0081] The compositions of the present invention may comprise the tara gum (a1) in a total amount of up to 2.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.05, 0.1 or 0.15 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.2 or 0.3 wt.-%. The amount used can be up to 2.0 wt.-%, up to 1 .9 wt.-%, up to 1 .8 wt.-%, up to 1 .7 wt.-% or less than 1 .7 wt.-%. The amount can thus for example range from 0.05 to 2.0 wt.-%, for example 0.06 to 1.9 wt.-% or 0.07 to 1.8 wt.-% or 0.08 to 1.7 wt.-% or 0.09 to 1.6 wt.-% or 0.10 to 1.5 wt.-%. In some embodiments, the amounts range from 0.05 to 1 .5 wt.-%, for example 0.1 to 1 .0 wt.-%.

[0082] The compositions of the present invention may comprise the xanthan gum (a2) in a total amount of up to 2.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.05, 0.1 or 0.15 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.2 or 0.3 wt.-%. The amount used can be up to 2.0 wt.-%, up to 1 .9 wt.-%, up to 1 .8 wt.-%, up to 1 .7 wt.-%, up to 1 .6 wt.-%, up to 1 .5 wt.-%, up to 1 .4 wt.-%, up to 1 .3 wt.-%, up to 1 .2 wt.-%, up to 1.1 wt.-%, up to 1 .0 wt.-% or less than 1 .0 wt.-%. The amount can thus for example range from 0.05 to 2.0 wt.-%, for example 0.06 to 1 .9 wt.-% or 0.07 to 1 .8 wt.-% or 0.08 to 1.7 wt.-% or 0.09 to 1 .6 wt.-% or 0.10 to 1.5 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amounts range from 0.05 to 1 .7 wt.-%, for example 0.1 to 1 .5 wt.-%. In some embodiments, the amount is 0.3 wt.-% or less relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in embodiments where (a) is not a binary combination of (a2) and (a3). In such embodiments, where (a) is a combination of (a2) and (a3) the amount may thus also be higher than 0.3 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The compositions of the present invention may comprise the algin (a3) in a total amount of up to 7.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.05, 0.1 or 0.15 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.2 or 0.3 wt.-%. The amount used can be up to 7.0 wt.-%, up to 6.0 wt.-%, up to 5.0 wt.-%, up to 4.0 wt.-% or less than 4.0 wt.-%. The amount can thus for example range from 0.05 to 6.0 wt.-%, for example 0.06 to 5.0 wt.-% or 0.07 to 4.0 wt.-% or 0.08 to 3.5 wt.-% or 0.09 to 3.0 wt.-% or 0.10 to 2.5 wt.-%. In some embodiments, the amounts range from 0.05 to 2.5 wt.-%, for example 0.1 to 1 .5 wt.-%.

[0084] The composition of the present invention may comprise konjac gum (a4) in a total amount of up to 2.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.05, 0.1 or 0.15 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.2 or 0.3 wt.-%. The amount used can be up to 2.0 wt.-%, up to 1 .9 wt.-%, up to 1 .8 wt.-%, up to 1 .7 wt.-% or less than 1 .7 wt.-%. The amount can thus for example range from 0.05 to 2.0 wt.-%, for example 0.06 to 1.9 wt.-% or 0.07 to 1.8 wt.-% or 0.08 to 1.7 wt.-% or 0.09 to 1.6 wt.-% or 0.10 to 1.5 wt.-%. In some embodiments, the amounts range from 0.05 to 1 .5 wt.-%, for example 0.1 to 1 .0 wt.-%.

[0085] The total amount of (a1), (a2), (a3), and (a4) relative to the total weight of the composition may be 0.2 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2.5 % by weight of the total of all components (a1) to (a4). The upper limit may be 5.0, 4.5, 4.0, 3.9, 3.8, 3.7, 3.6, 3.5, 3.4, 3.3, 3.2, 3.1 , or 30.0 wt.-%. The lower limit may be 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, or 0.8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention do not contain any other biopolymer with thickening properties other than (a1)-(a4). In various embodiments, the compositions are free of sclerotium gum. In various embodiments, the compositions are free of pullulan. In various embodiments, the compositions are free of polyacrylate (thickeners).

[0087] Hydrophobic component

[0088] The hydrophobic component (c) may be selected from the group of emollients, consistency agents and effect substances, such as pearlescent waxes. It is also possible that more than one hydrophobic agents are combined. In such embodiments mixtures of the compounds selected from these compound classes may be used, with the mixtures comprise at least one from at least tow of the listed compound types or at least two compounds of the same compound type.

[0089] The total amount of the hydrophobic component (c) may range from 0.1 to 50 wt.-%, preferably 0.3 to 35 wt.-% or 0.5 to 25 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 30 wt.-% or 5.0 to 25 wt.-% or 8.0 to 15 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Emollients

[0091] In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one emollient as component (c) or part of component (c).

[0092] In the context of the present invention, the term “emollient” is understood to mean substances that make the skin soft and supple, especially by supplying the skin with lipids or reducing evaporation or increasing the moisture content of the skin. Suitable emollients are substances from the group of the oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and / or organosilicon compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point < 70°C.

[0093] Emollients may be oils, fats and / or waxes, for example from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono- / dialkylethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Exemplary esters that may be present include, but are not limited to, those of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as diols or trimer triol, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono- / di- / triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils or fats and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Suitable examples from the group of esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C22 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols are myristyl myristate (commercially available as Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate (commercially available as Cetiol® J 600), behenyl oleate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, ethylhexyl stearate (commercially available as Cetiol® 868), hexyl laurate (commercially available as Cetiol® A), coco-caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® C5), coco-caprylate / caprate (commercially available as Cetiol® LC, Cetiol® C 5C), propylheptyl caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® Sensoft), cetearyl isononanoate (commercially available as Cetiol® SN), decyl oleate (commercially available as Cetiol® V), cetearyl ethylhexanoate.

[0096] Similarly suitable are esters of alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably esters of lactic acid such as lauryl lactate.

[0097] Also suitable are esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols, preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and / or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and / or diisopropyl sebacate.

[0098] Also suitable are esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), such as propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (commercially available as Myritol® PGDC), triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids, liquid monoglycerides, diglycerides or mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids (commercially available as Myritol® 331 , Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318), esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. commercially available as Cetiol® AB). Also suitable are hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides (commercially available as Cutina® HVG).

[0099] Of good suitability as natural, especially vegetable, fats and oils are groundnut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, for example commercially available as Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS 6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB 45. Also usable as emollient are, for example, natural vegetable waxes such as fruit waxes (for example orange waxes) and animal waxes such as wool wax.

[0100] Also suitable as emollient are C12-C15 fatty alcohols that are usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1 -pentadecanol.

[0101] Further suitable emollients are organosilicon compounds, which are frequently referred to simply as silicones. They may take the form of cyclic, branched or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like and / or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicones are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.

[0102] Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes are, for example, the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes. They are also referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or Dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.

[0103] Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as cyclomethicone, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax grades from Evonik. Silicones which are particularly preferred are dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone.

[0104] Further suitable emollients are mono- and / or dialkyl carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® 4AII), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether (commercially available as Cetiol® OE).

[0105] Further suitable emollients are hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, paraffinum liquidum, undecane / tridecane (commercially available as Cetiol® Ultimate), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexanes, isoparaffins or paraffins as well as C9-C12 alkanes.

[0106] Suitable Guerbet alcohols are those based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms (commercially available as Eutanol® G, Eutanol® G 16).

[0107] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one emollient as component (e) or part of component (e). The at least one emollient may be present in amounts of from 0.1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 0.3 to 25 wt.-% or 0.5 to 25 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 30 wt.-% or 5.0 to 25 wt.-% or 8.0 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one emollient is used in amounts of 5.0 to 20 or 8.0 to 15 wt.-%.

[0108] In such emollient-containing compositions, for example serums, hydrodispersions and cream gels, typically at least one, preferably two or more of the above emollients are included.

[0109] Particularly preferred emollients in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, and combinations thereof.

[0110] Consistency agents

[0111] In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one consistency agent as component (c) or part of component (c).

[0112] Typical examples for consistency agents are substances from the group of fats, waxes, alcohols and I or hydrocarbons with a melting point above 45 °C (at standard pressure of 1013 mbar). Further examples include whole or partial wax esters, such as mono-, di- and I or triglycerides, such as the Cutina® MD products marketed by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG or Cutina® GMS (glyceryl stearate). Natural vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, sunflower wax and animal waxes such as beeswax can also be used.

[0113] Further suitable consistency agents are hydrogenated or hardened waxes such as the mineral waxes such ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes and micro waxes. Chemically modified waxes such as montane waxes, sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes can also be used. The synthetic waxes which can be used according to the invention include, for example, waxy polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

[0114] Other waxes that can be used are esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and I or unsaturated, branched and I or unbranched alcohols. Examples of such esters are the C16-C40-alkyl stearates, C20-C40-alkyl stearates (e.g. Kesterwax K82H), C20-C40-dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C18-C38-alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates or C20-C40-alkyl erucates. In addition, C30-C50-alkyl beeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di (12- hydroxystearate), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, glycate methistearate, tri-stearate, stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate, stearyl behenate, stearyl behenate, stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate Glycerin with a hydroxystearic acid (Cutina® HR) or glycerin tristearate, glycerin tribehenate (e.g. Syncrowax® HRC), glycerin tripalmitate or the triglyceride mixtures known under the name Syncrowax® HGLC are suitable.

[0115] Fatty alcohols, fatty acids (unsaponified) and I or glyceryl mono-, di- and I or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters are further suitable consistency agents. Typical examples are cetyl alcohol (Lanette® 16), palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (Lanette® 18), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® O), isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (Lanette® alcohol, arachidyl alcohol) , Erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or Aldehydes are obtained from Roelen's oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. Examples of glyceryl esters are glyceryl laurate such as Monomuls® 90-L-12, glyceryl oleate such as Monomuls® 90-0 18, glyceryl stearate such as Cutina® GMS V and Cutina® GMS V I MB, glycol distearate such as Cutina® AGS, sorbitan stearate such as Dehymuls® SMS, Cutina® HVG.

[0116] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one consistency agent as component (c) or part of component (c). The at least one consistency agent may be present in amounts of from 0.1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 20 wt.-% or 0.5 to 15 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 20 wt.-% or 1 .5 to 15 wt.-% or 2.0 to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one consistency agent is used in amounts of 0.5 to 15 or 2.0 to 10 wt.-%.

[0117] Effect substances

[0118] In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one effect substance, such as a pearlescent wax, as component (c) or part of component (c).

[0119] Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, specifically coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, specifically stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, specifically laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one pearlescent wax (or other effect substance) as component (c) or part of component (c). The at least one pearlescent wax (or other effect substance) may be present in amounts of from 0.1 to 20 wt.-%, preferably 0.3 to 15 wt.-% or 0.5 to 15 wt.-% or 0.8 to 20 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 10 wt.-% or 1 .5 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one pearlescent wax (or other effect substance) is used in amounts of 0.5 to 15 or 1 .0 to 10 wt.-%.

[0121] In various embodiments, the composition comprises at least one hydrophobic component selected from the group consisting of emollients, consistency agents and effect substances, wherein the consistency agents are selected from the group consisting of fats, waxes, alcohols and I or hydrocarbons with a melting point above 45 °C at standard pressure of 1013 mbar, and wherein the effect substances are selected from pearlescent waxes.

[0122] Further cosmetically acceptable components

[0123] In various embodiments, the amount of component (d) may be in the range of 0.1 to 40.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 20 % by weight of component (d), relative to the total weight of the composition. Generally, the amount of component (d), i.e. the totality of all cosmetically acceptable components other than (a)-(c) may be in the range of up to 80 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example up to 75, up to 70, up to 65, up to 60, up to 55, up to 50, up to 45, up to 40, up to 35, up to 30, up to 25, or up to 20 % by weight. The lower limit may be as low as 0.1 wt.-%, for example at least 0.2, 0.5, 0.7, 1 .0, 1 .5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 or 5.0 wt.-%. Typical ranges are 0.5 to 30 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 25 wt.-% or 2.0 to 20 wt.-%, all relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] In various embodiments, the total amount of components (c) and (d) in combination, i.e. the totality of all cosmetically acceptable components and hydrophobic components may be in the range of up to 80 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example up to 75, up to 70, up to 65, up to 60, up to 55, up to 50, up to 45, up to 40, up to 35, up to 30, up to 25, or up to 20 % by weight. The lower limit may be as low as 0.1 wt.-%, for example at least 0.2, 0.5, 0.7, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 or 5.0 wt.-%. Typical ranges are 0.5 to 60 wt.-% or 1 .0 to 50 wt.-%, or 1 .0 to 25 wt.-% or 2.0 to 20 wt.-%, all relative to the total weight of the composition

[0125] In various embodiments, the (hydrodispersion) compositions comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 10 % by weight or 0.2 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight of components (a1) to (a4) in total, and 0.1 to 80.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 60 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 50 % by weight of components (c) and (d) in total, wherein the balance to 100 % by weight is water.

[0126] The further cosmetically acceptable ingredients can be any cosmetically acceptable ingredient. These ingredients are known to the skilled person and can, for example, be found in several publications, e.g. in the latest edition of the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” published by the Personal Care Products Council. Another well-known source of further suitable cosmetically acceptable ingredients is the cosmetic ingredient database Cosing. Cosing can be accessed on the internet pages of the European Commission.

[0127] Suitable further cosmetically acceptable ingredients that may individually or in combination used in the compositions of the invention as component (d) can be selected from the groups consisting of: preservatives, such as benzoic acid or sodium benzoate; humectants, such as glycerin; neutralizing agents, such as citric acid; buffering agents; metal salts, such as calcium salts, for example calcium chloride; complexing agents; surfactants; solubilizers; sensory modifiers; film forming agents; fragrances; opacifiers; actives, such as vitamins, plant extracts and the like; plasticizers; conditioning agents;

[0128] UV filters; dyes; colorants and pigments; antioxidants; and combinations thereof.

[0129] It is understood that multiple components of each of the above substance classes may be used in combination and that some compounds may qualify as two or more different types of compounds. It is further understood that multiple components of the above list may be used in combination and that each of these component types used in combination can again comprise more than one individual compound.

[0130] Surfactants

[0131] In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one surfactant as component (d) or part of component (d).

[0132] Surfactants are amphiphilic substances which can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water, as a result of their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and a hydrophobic molecular moiety.

[0133] Suitable surfactants useful in the compositions of the invention include all those generally used in the field of cosmetic and personal care compositions and known to those skilled in the art. In various embodiments, the surfactants used in the compositions of the invention are not emulsifiers. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are free of emulsifiers and, optionally, also free of surfactants.

[0134] The surfactants used may be anionic, nonionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic. In surfactantcontaining compositions, for example shower creams, at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present. In such embodiments, the anionic surfactant can be combined with another type of surfactant, typically with the exception of cationic surfactants, in particular nonionic or zwitterionic / ampholytic surfactants. In all embodiments disclosed herein, more than one surfactant of any type may be included, for example 2, 3, 4, 5 or more different (types of) surfactants. Suitable anionic surfactants include those with at least one anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group.

[0135] Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of their salts, ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alkylarylsulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alkyl(ether)sulfates, fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, esters of tartaric acid and esters of citric acid, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates and condensation products of C8 alcohols and / or C30 protein alcohols their derivatives, so-called protein fatty acid condensates, e.g. Lamepon®, Gluadin®, Hostapon® KCG or Amisoft. Suitable 2-sulfonated fatty acids include, without limitation, 2-sulfolaurate and salts thereof, in particular disodium 2-sulfolaurate.

[0136] The salts are typically selected from the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and tri-channel ammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.

[0137] The terms “alkyl(ether)sulfates” and “fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates”, as used herein, relate to the well-known class of anionic surfactants of sulfated fatty alcohols and sulfated fatty alcohol ethers, in particular the ethoxylated, propoxylated or mixed ethoxylated / propoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols. Examples of such surfactants thus include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS or SDS).

[0138] Typical examples of usable nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactant contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.

[0139] Zwitterionic surfactants which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N- acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylamino- propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. Also suitable, especially as cosurfactants, are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C8-C18-alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N- alkylamidopropyl-'glycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl-aminopropionate and C12-18-acylsarcosine.

[0140] Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

[0141] For example, suitable anionic surface-active substances are, without limitation, sodium acylglutamate, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium or Ammoniumcocoylisethio- carbonate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C12-13 pareth sulfate, sodium C12-15 pareth 15 sulfonate, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium coclaureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 Carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate, DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, magnesium PEG-3 cocamid sulfate, di-TEA palmitoyl aspartate and sodium caprylic aspartate, palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium I potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate.

[0142] While the compositions may contain alkyl (ether) sulfates, including fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates, it is preferred that these are only present in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, such as 1 wt.-% or lower, or more preferred completely absent. In particular, rinse-off compositions may be preferably free of such alkyl (ether)sulfates.

[0143] Cationic surfactants which can be used are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethyl-ammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. In addition, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, for example the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series can also be used as cationic surfactants. The term “ester quats” are generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants which can be used in accordance with the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

[0144] Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly, surfactants are mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides / - glucosides and / or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts thereof. These surfactants are preferred surfactants to be used in the compositions of the invention. In the compositions of the invention, these may be used individually or in combination.

[0145] Preferred surfactants are also generally those that are obtainable from renewable raw materials and are readily biodegradable.

[0146] The surfactants may be present in amounts of from 0.2 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 0.3 to 25 wt.-% or 0.4 to 25 wt.-% or 0.5 to 30 wt.-% or 1 to 25 wt.-% or 2 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, at least one surfactant is present in amounts of 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 wt.-%.

[0147] Further components

[0148] Depending on the intended application, the compositions of the invention can comprise a series of further auxiliaries and additives as component (d), such as, for example, preservatives, such as benzoic acid or sodium benzoate; humectants and hydrotropes, such as glycerin; neutralizing agents, such as citric acid; buffering agents; metal salts, such as calcium salts, for example calcium chloride; complexing agents; solubilizers; sensory modifiers; film forming agents; fragrances; opacifiers; actives, such as vitamins, plant extracts and the like; plasticizers; conditioning agents; UV filters; dyes; colorants and pigments; antioxidants; and combinations thereof. Suitable compounds are commercially available and well-known to those skilled in the art.

[0149] Suitable humectants, for example, include polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, including but not limited to sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, xylitol, as well as liquid polyethylene glycol, panthenol and mixtures thereof. If used in the compositions, the weight ratio of water to humectant is preferably at least 1 .45:1 and up to 49:1 , with the total amount of humectant ranging from 2 to 40 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 3 to 15 or 4 to10 wt.-%.

[0150] Examples of suitable neutralizing agents are the compatible acids or bases known in the cosmetics industry, which are likewise listed in the Cosmetics Directive. Buffers ensure the pH stability of the cosmetic formulations. Primarily citrate, lactate and phosphate buffers are used. The neutralizing agent may alternatively be any carboxylic acid, with alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as lactate, citrate and tartrate being particularly suitable. They are used in amounts necessary to adjust the pH as desired. Suitable preservatives include, for example and without limitation, ethanol, isopropanol, phenoxyethanol, the combination of phenoxyethanol with methyldibromoglutaronitrile, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, benzoic acid and salts thereof, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, urea condensates, p-hydroxybenzoic esters, dehydroacetic acid, methylthiazolinone or sorbic acid and salts thereof, and also the silver complexes known by the Surfacine® name, and the further substance classes listed in Annex 6, parts A and B, of the Cosmetics Directive. Additionally used are substances which function as preservation aids such as ethylhexylglycerin and caprylyl glycol, and polyols or alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, propanediol, phenylpropanol, phenethyl alcohol and undecyl alcohol. Additionally suitable as preservatives are the 1 ,2-alkanediols having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, which are described in WO07 / 048757. Advantageous preservatives in the context of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (for example DMDM Hydantoin, commercially available, for example, under the Glydant® trade name (Lonza)), iodopropyl butylcarbamate (e.g. Glycacil-L®, Glycacil-S® (Lonza), Dekaben®LMB (Jan Dekker)), parabens (alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, for example methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and / or butylparaben), Dehydroacetic Acid (Euxyl® K 702 (Ashland), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid. It is also advantageous to use what are called preservation aids, for example octoxyglycerin, glycine, soya etc. Also advantageous are the preservatives or preservation aids that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2- propynylbutyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1 ,3-diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4- isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates. Particularly preferred preservatives are (sodium) benzoate, ethylhexylglycerin, parabens (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and / or butylparaben) and / or phenoxyethanol.

[0151] Suitable complexing agents are salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, of nitrilotriacetic acid, of iminodisuccinic acid, or phosphates.

[0152] Stabilizers used may be metal salts of fatty acids, for example magnesium stearate / ricinoleate, aluminum stearate / ricinoleate and / or zinc stearate / ricinoleate, in order to improve emulsion stability, but also compounds such as tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate as light stabilizers in order to prevent discoloration or changes in odor in the formulations.

[0153] Solubilizers used may, for example, include, without limitation, ethylene oxide adducts having an ethoxylation level of 20 to 60 onto castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, ethylene oxide adducts and / or propylene oxide adducts having 2-20 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 20 mol of propylene oxide units onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms or onto fatty acids having 12 to 40 carbon atoms or onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Also suitable are ethylene oxide adducts of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide units onto C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of glycerol or polyglycerol or sorbitan or lauryl glycosides. Preferentially suitable solubilizers are Eumulgin® HRE 40 (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin® HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin® L (INCI: PPG-1 -PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether), and Eumulgin® SML 20 (INCI: Polysorbate-20). They are typically used in concentrations of 0.2 to 1 .0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the compositions do not comprise PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0154] Suitable solvents include, without limitation, alcohols such as ethanol, propanediol or glycerol.

[0155] The compositions may also comprise further cosmetic ingredients, for example active biogenic ingredients, UV light protection filters, self-tanning agents, insect repellents, antioxidants, film formers, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, perfume oils, and dyes. These may, in various embodiments, be comprised in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt.-%, such as 0.1 to 20 wt.- % or 0.2 to 15 or 0.3 to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Suitable UV light protection filters organic substances that are liquid at room temperature or crystalline (light protection filters) which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and releasing the energy absorbed again in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

[0157] Examples of typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV-A / B filters include, without limitation: o 3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorcamphor (Mexoryl SDS 20) and derivatives thereof, e.g. 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, as described in EP 0693471 B1 ; o 3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate (Mexoryl SO); o 3,3'-(1 ,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX); o 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL); o polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide (Mexoryl SW); o 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl (trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; o 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2- octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; o esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4- methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3- phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); o esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; o derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy- 4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; o esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; o triazine derivatives, for example 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazine and 2, 4, 6-tris[p-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150), as described in EP 0818450 A1 , or bis(2-ethylhexyl) 4,4'-[(6-[4-((1 ,1- dimethylethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine-2,4-diimino]benzoate (Uvasorb® HEB); o 2,2-(methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol) (Tinosorb M); o 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S); o propane-1 ,3-diones, for example 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1 ,3- dione; o ketotricyclo(5.2.1 ,0)decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1 ; o dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonates (Parsol SLX).

[0158] Useful water-soluble UV filters include, without limitation: o 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof; o 2,2-(1 ,4-phenylene)bis(1 H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP); o sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof; o sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, for example 4-(2-oxo bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

[0159] Useful typical UVA filters are especially derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)- 3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1- phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione, and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF), and also benzoic acid 2-[4-(diethylamino) hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).

[0160] The UVA and UVB filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2- ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4- methoxycinnamate. Combinations of this type are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters, for example 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof.

[0161] Suitable UV light protection filters are especially the substances approved according to Annex VII of the Commission Directive (in the version: Commission Directive 2005 / 9 / EC of Jan. 28, 2005 amending Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC, concerning cosmetic products, for the purposes of adapting Annexes VII thereof to technical progress), to which reference is explicitly made here.

[0162] In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, specifically finely dispersed metal oxides and salts, are also useful for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are especially zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and additionally oxides of iron, of zirconium, of silicon, of manganese, of aluminum and of cerium, and mixtures thereof. The salts used may be silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skincare and skinprotecting emulsions, and also for decorative cosmetics. The particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and especially between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which deviates in some other way from the spherical configuration. The pigments may also be in surface- treated form, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example T 805 titanium dioxide (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® T-S (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxides, for example Zinc Oxide neutral, Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and specifically trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreen compositions, preference is given to using so-called micropigments or nanopigments. Preference is given to using micronized zinc oxide. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the review by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 8 / 1996, pages 543-548 and Parf. Kosm. Volume 80, no. 3 / 1999, pages 10 to 16.

[0163] As well as the two afore-mentioned groups of primary photoprotective substances, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples thereof are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. a-carotene, p-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof), and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. a-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), a-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, a-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSC ), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids), suitable in accordance with the invention, of these specified active ingredients.

[0164] These UV light protection filters are commercially available, for example, under the following trade names: NeoHeliopanOMBC (INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor; manufacturer: Symrise); NeoHeliopan® BB (INCI: Benzophenone-3, manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol®1789 (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, manufacturer: Hoffmann-La Roche (Givaudan); Tinosorb®S (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine); Tinosorb®M (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol): manufacturer: BASF; Uvasorb®HEB (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, manufacturer: 3V Inc.), Uvinul®T 150 (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone, manufacturer: BASF AG); Uvinul® A plus (INCI: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, manufacturer: BASF AG; Mexoryl® SO: 3-(4'- trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate, INCI: Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate; Mexoryl®SX: 3,3'-(1 ,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-[2.2.1]-heptane-1- methanesulfonic acid), CTFA: INCI Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid; Mexory® SL: 3-(4'- sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one, INCI Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid; Mexoryl®SW: polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide, INCI Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor; Mexoryl®SL: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-

[0165] (trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; INCI: DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE; Parsol® SLX: Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate, INCI Polysilicone-15.

[0166] Further examples are pigmentary light filters, for example inorganic pigmentary light filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and / or organic pigmentary light filters such as methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M).

[0167] Self-tanning agents are understood to mean substances which cause browning of the skin. Examples include dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and alpha, beta-unsaturated aldehydes, which react with the amino acids in the skin in the manner of a Maillard reaction to give colored compounds. Useful further active ingredients for self-tanning agents include natural or synthetic ketols or aldols. Examples of suitable active ingredients include dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glycerolaldehyde, alloxane, hydroxymethylglyoxal, gamma-dialdehyde, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin and meso-tartaraldehyde. Suitable self-tanning agents are especially dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose.

[0168] Active biogenic ingredients present may be active ingredients having a natural basis, preferably those that improve skin properties, for example tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and the fragmentation products thereof, p-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example aloe vera, prunus extract, bambara nut extract and vitamin complexes. In some embodiments, the active does not comprise animal or animal-derived products, such as snail secretion filtrate.

[0169] The following active biogenic ingredients are suitable (as humectants) for the skin: AMC® Advanced Moisture Complex NP (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) Urea (and) Trehalose (and) Hexylene glycol (and) Polyquaternium-51 (and) Triacetin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate); Hyalurosmooth® LS8998 (INCI: Water (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Hyalurosmooth® LS 8997(INCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Irwinol® (INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glyce rides); Lipofructyl® Argan (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil); Melhydran® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Honey Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Urea (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Arginine HCI (and) Lysine HCI (and) Ornithine HCI); Oligolin® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract); PatcH2 O® (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and) Urea (and) Serine (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (and), Algin (and), Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and), Pullulan (and) Disodium Phosphate (and) Potassium Phosphate); Relipidium® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol); Sphingoceryl® VEG (INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract).

[0170] The following active biogenic ingredients are suitable as anti-aging agents:

[0171] AH-Care® (INCI: Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Arginine); Argassential® (INCI: Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Sorbitol (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin (and) Water); Argatensyl® (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate); Collalift® 18 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract (and) Maltodextrin); Deliner@ (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Dermagenist® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract); Dermican® LS 9837 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9); Dermican® LS 9838 (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9); Elestan® LS 9913 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract (and) Water); Elestan® LS 9879 (INCI: Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin); Eperuline® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Eperua Falcata Bark Extract); Epigenist® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract); Hyalufix® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alpinia Galanga Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), Hyaluronic Filling Spheres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate); Linefactor® C (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Lox-Agee (INCI: Water (and) Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Leaf Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Lys'lastine® V (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Peucedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Myoxinol® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (and) Dextrin); Neurobiox® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Achillea Millefolium Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Oligolin® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract); Perlaura® (INCI: Water (and) Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Phytokine® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) 1 ,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol); Proteasyl® LS 9818 (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract); Proteasyl® LS 8951 (INCI: Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract (and) Cyclodextrin); Shadownyl® (INCI: Water (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Slim-Excess® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Hydrolyzed Rhodophycea Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Speci'Men® (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract); Sqisandryl® (INCI: Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract); Syniorage® (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11); Ultra Filling Sphreres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Glucomannan); Vegeseryl® HGP (INCI: Water (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Ethylhexylglycerin); Vit-A-Like® LS 9793 (INCI: Water (and) Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate); Vit-A-Like® LS 9898 (INCI: Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin); X-pressin® R (INCI: Water (and) Papain (and) Carbomer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Algin).

[0172] Suitable active biogenic ingredients for improving the skin (skin perfection) are:

[0173] AH-Care® (INCI: Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Arginine); Beta-Hydroxyde® ACSD (INCI: Salicylic Acid (and) Acacia Senegal Gum); Betapur® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Biophytex® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Panthenol (and) Escin (and) Glycerin (and) Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract (and) Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (and) Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract); Lox-Age® (INCI: Water (and) Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Leaf Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Mat-XS® Clinical (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sarcosine (and) Xanthan Gum); Neurobiox® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Achillea Millefolium Extract (and) Xanthan Gum; X-pressin® C (INCI: Water (and) Papain (and) Carbomer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Algin).

[0174] Examples of useful insect repellents include N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1 ,2-pentanediol or ethyl 3-(N-n-butyl- N-acetylamino)propionate, which is sold under the Insect Repellent® 3535 name by Merck KGaA, and butyl acetylaminopropionates.

[0175] Examples of useful tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find use in depigmenting agents include arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

[0176] Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic odorants. Natural odorants are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica , celery, cardamom, costus, iris , calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum , elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Also suitable are animal raw materials, for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic odorant compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Odorant compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones, a-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include primarily the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different odorants which together produce a pleasant scent note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given to using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a- hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, p-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso- E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures. Examples of suitable aromas include peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseed oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, Wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

[0177] Suitable film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.

[0178] Dyes which can be used are the substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as listed, for example, in the publication “Kosmetische Farbemittel” [Cosmetic Colorants] from the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft [Dyes Commission of the German Research Society], Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), indigotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000). As a luminescent dye, it is also possible for luminol to be present. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 % to 0.1 % by weight, based on the total mixture.

[0179] Pigments may be present. The preferred particle size is 0.01 to 200 pm, especially 0.02 to 150 pm, more preferably 0.05 to 100 pm. The pigments are colorants that are virtually insoluble in the application medium and may be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Preference is given to inorganic pigments.

[0180] The advantage of the inorganic pigments is their excellent photostability, weather stability and thermal stability. The inorganic pigments may be of natural origin, for example prepared from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt siena or graphite. The pigments may be white pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments, such as, for example, iron oxide black, colored pigments, such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red, gloss pigments, metal effect pigments, pearlescent pigments and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, where preferably at least one pigment is a colored, non-white pigment. Metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates, and the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable. Of particular suitability are titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510), carmine (cochineal).

[0181] Particular preference is given to pearlescent pigments and colored pigments based on mica or based on borosilicate, which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and if appropriate further color-imparting substances, such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine etc., and where the color can be determined by varying the layer thickness. Such pigments are sold, for example, under the Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® trade names by Merck or the Reflecks® Cloisonne®, Timica®, Chione®, Pearl-Glo® or Bi-Lite® trade names by BASF.

[0182] Organic pigments are, for example, the natural pigments sepia, gamboge, bone charcoal, Cassel brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments.

[0183] Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.

[0184] Especially suitable are, for instance, silica, silicates, aluminates, aluminas, mica, salts, especially organic metal salts, metal oxides, e.g. titanium dioxide, optionally in combination with fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0185] Examples of suitable sensory additives include Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Tapoca, Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer or Polymethyl silsequioxane.

[0186] Examples of suitable coolants include ethanol, menthol and / or camphor.

[0187] In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose) as a conditioning agent. In such embodiments, the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as conditioner creams.

[0188] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention may comprise cationic guar gum, preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, typically the chloride salt (as a conditioning agent). Guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from guar beans that is known for its thickening and stabilizing properties useful in food applications. Cationic guar (gum) is obtained by quaternization of guar gum, the most common cationic guar being guar hydroxypropyltrimonium. It is typically used in form of its salt, in particular the chloride salt. The compositions of the invention may optionally contain cationic guar in an amount of 0.01 to 2.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Another useful polymer is cetrimonium chloride.

[0189] The compositions of the invention may, in various embodiments, be free of (poly)acrylate thickeners or, preferably, generally free of polyacrylates, including acrylate copolymers. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are generally free of synthetic polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the compositions do not contain any thickeners or rheology modifying agents other than (a) to (c). In this context, “thickeners” and “rheology modifiers” preferably refer to compounds only added for the purpose to increase or adjust viscosity and rheology and which do not function as other components of the composition, such as surfactants, emollients or any of the other auxiliary substances listed above.

[0190] The compositions of the invention may be free of fluorinated organic compounds, more preferably free of halogenated organic compounds. This relates to organic compounds that have fluorine or any other halogen bonded by a covalent bond, but does not extend to halogen salts (halides).

[0191] The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants or contain those only in small amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, preferably 1 wt.-% or less.

[0192] The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of oxidizing agents, such as those used in hair dyes, in particular hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating compounds.

[0193] The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components derived from renewable raw materials. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition other than water are derived from renewable raw materials. It may be preferred that all non-water components are derived from renewable raw materials. Said renewable materials include, but are not limited to, plant-based materials. It may be preferred that less than 10 wt.-%, more preferably none of the non-water components of the compositions are derived from fossil sources or fossil fuels.

[0194] The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components that are biodegradable. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition besides water are biodegradable. It may be preferred that all non-water components are biodegradable. The biodegradability is preferably determined according to OECD 301 F or OECD 302 C (MITI-II test), with ..biodegradable" components preferably having a biodegradability of at least 40%, preferably 60% determined according to OECD 301 F and / or at least 20%, preferably at least 40% according to OECD 302 C.

[0195] The compositions of the invention preferably have a pH value at 20°C in the range of 3.0 to 8.0, preferably 3.5 to 7.5. more preferably 4.0 to 7.0, for example 4.5 to 5.5 or 6.0. to 6.5. The pH value may be determined directly or, as a 1 % solution or dispersion in deionized water. The viscosity of the compositions is preferably at least 2.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield RVF, Spindle 4, 10 rpm) and may be as high as 300 000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield RVF, Spindle TE, Helipath, 4 rpm).

[0196] Specific Embodiments

[0197] In various embodiments, the composition is a skin cleansing composition, for example a face cleansing gel.

[0198] In such embodiments, the composition comprises 0.1 to 10 wt.-% of emollients, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. These emollients are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, and coco- caprylate / caprate or natural vegetable oils or fats, for example soybean oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, almond oil. In various embodiments the skin care composition comprises one or more of isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, hydrogenated vegetable glycerides soybean oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil,. In various embodiments, the composition comprises two, or more of these compounds.

[0199] In various embodiments, the skin cleansing composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol. The humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] In various embodiments, the skin cleansing composition further comprises one or more surfactants, such as fatty acid glutamates, alkyl (poly)glycosides, alkylamidobetaines and alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates. These may be present in amounts of from 1.0 to 15 wt.-%, such as 2.0 to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] The skin cleansing composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives and fragrances but may also include further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and pigments or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 3 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-% or up to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] Such skin cleansing compositions may have viscosities of at least 5000 mPa.s, preferably 10000 to 70000 mPa.s or 20000 to 90000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield RVF, Spindle 5 or 6, 10 rpm).

[0203] In a still other embodiment, the composition is a serum. In such embodiments, it may comprise 0.1 to 15 wt.-% pearlescent wax, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt.-% or 0.7 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. These pearlescent waxes are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely alkylene glycol esters; fatty acid alkanolamides; partial glycerides; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; fatty substances; fatty acids; ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. In various embodiments, the composition comprises two, three, four or five of these compounds.

[0204] In various embodiments, the serum composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol. The humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5-6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] The serum composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives, actives antioxidants and fragrances and, additionally and optionally, further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and pigments. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 3 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-%.

[0206] Such serum compositions may have viscosities of at least 2000 mPa.s, preferably 5000 to 25000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield RVF, Spindle 5, 10 rpm).

[0207] In various embodiments of the invention, the compositions of the invention may have the composition as set forth in any one of Tables below. It has been found that the biopolymer combinations claimed herein perform particularly well in these types of formulations, as regards stability, viscosity, and texture. All amounts (concentration) given in said tables are in wt.-% of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] Serum

[0209] Fluid

[0210]

[0211] Hydrodispersion formulation

[0212] Cream gel

[0213] Body gel

[0214] Cleansing gel

[0215] Uses and processes As already described above, the compositions are preferably hair or skin care and cleansing composition, preferably a hair conditioning or styling product or a hydrodispersion or a cleansing gel. The use thereof to style or condition hair or provide a cleansing or caring effect to skin thus also forms part of the invention.

[0216] The invention further relates to a process for styling or conditioning hair, comprising contacting the hair to the composition described herein, or to a process for achieving cleansing or caring effects to skin, comprising contacting the skin with the composition as described herein. Such “caring effects” may be quantified by evaluation of the smoothness or visual appearance of the skin or protection of the skin against environmental factors before and after the application. “Achieving a caring effect on the skin” thus includes an improvement of the smoothness and / or visual appearance and / or protection of the skin.

[0217] All embodiments described above for the personal compositions of the invention are similarly applicable to the uses and methods of the invention and vice versa.

[0218] Examples

[0219] The following properties of the claimed biopolymer systems have been examined:

[0220] • texture

[0221] • stability

[0222] • viscosity

[0223] For examining the properties of a ternary biopolymer system a design of experiment (DoE) approach has been used which is described in more detail in the following paragraphs.

[0224] To perform the experiments for the mixtures of three polymers (selected from (a1) to (a4)) Design of Experiments (DoE) was used. DoE was performed by JMP® 17.0.0, a software available from JMP Statistical Discovery LLC. To create the map of experiments a simplex matrix for three components was chosen. The measurement-points in a simplex matrix are evenly distributed in a triangular shaped diagram including one measurement-point with equal amount of each polymer located in the center of the diagram. In the present case there were three components, which were three polymers of a ternary polymer-mixture.

[0225] The map of experiments arranged in a triangular diagram contained 19 measurement points with different amounts for each polymer in each mixture. JMP® 17.0.0 required input at these 19 measurement points. These 19 measurement points were located at the following positions within the triangular diagram:

[0226] • three measurement points were at the corner of the triangular diagram (representing a pure polymer)

[0227] • eight measurement points were located on the lines of the triangular diagram, thus representing a mixture of two polymers

[0228] • one measurement point was in the center of the triangular diagram, representing a mixture of three polymers, wherein the amount of all three polymers was the same

[0229] • six measurement points were arranged symmetrically around the center-point.

[0230] The plan of experiments was given to the experimenter in a random way without any repetitions.

[0231] After the experiments were done (i. e. after the three properties to be examined had been determined at each of the 19 measurement points) and the corresponding results were available JMP® 17.0.0 was used again to fit the experimental data into the best mathematical model available for each of the parameters. For each parameter the mathematical model of the following list was chosen that described the results in the best way.

[0232] (c-i, C2, ... c-io = coefficients are coming from data-modelling; if a coefficient is equal to zero this term does not apply) The person using JMP® 17.0.0 could also chose a combination out of the different models or create new models, i. e. specific quatric models, fully quartic models. To choose the best mathematical model for each property for each ternary system the p-value for each model was not allowed to be above 0.05. Additionally, the Revalue had to be above 65 %.

[0233] The meaning of p-value is well-known in the art. The p-value is used to decide if a certain pattern of measured results is statistically significant. If the p-value is 0.05 or lower, the result is stated as significant. If the p-value is above 0.05 the model is statistical not significant and therefore it would result in overfitting. In this case the coefficients (c-i, C2, ... c-ie) are set to zero for the particular model.

[0234] The meaning of Revalue is well-known in the art. The Revalue is a statistical measure of fit that indicates how much variation of a dependent variable is explained by the independent variable(s) in a regression model. If R2is equal to 100 % the experimental data and the mathematical model are exactly the same which is never the case. From our experience a value of 75 % and higher gives a reliable model.

[0235] By carrying out the described DoE experiments and modelling it could be determined in what areas of a ternary plot (diagram), representing the composition of the ternary polymer-systems examined, the three properties that have been examined, are above (or below) a chosen threshold-value.

[0236] In the following paragraphs the methods for determining texture, stability and viscosity are described in detail.

[0237] Texture

[0238] A sensory assessment was performed to assess the smooth and flowing texture of the samples to be evaluated. The evaluation was done by four trained volunteers. The results were calculated as a median from the four evaluations.

[0239] The target was to be different to the jelly and / or slimy texture of common natural solutions, which are state of the art but are not perceived as desirable and pleasing by the consumers. Textures were evaluated in a grading from 1 to 5 in 0.5 steps (grade 1 was the highest grade while 5 was the lowest one). Standard texture of algin was set to 3 as a reference. Standard texture of Tara gum was set to 1 as a reference.

[0240] Stability

[0241] A standard storage test at different temperatures (room temperature (about 20°C), -5°C, 40°C, 45°C and 50°C) was performed to assess the stability of the samples to be evaluated. The evaluation was done for 3 months and the stability was checked after 1d as well as 1 , 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks. The target was to have stable formulations at all temperatures for the complete storage period. Stabilities were evaluated in a grading from 1 to 5 in 0.5 steps (grade 1 was the highest grade while 5 was the lowest one). Viscosity

[0242] The viscosity was measured with a Brookfield RVF device at 20°C and spindle No. 5 was used at 10rpm. The target was to reach higher viscosities with 1 % usage concentration than the performance that can be achieved with common natural solutions but at the same time not to have too high viscosities that cannot be properly handled in packages for consumers.

[0243] Example 1 : Formulations

[0244] All formulations were based on the base formulations shown in the table below.

[0245] Konjac gum = Verdessence® Glucomannan

[0246] Tara gum = Verdessence® Tara

[0247] Algin = Verdessence® Alginate

[0248] Different amounts and ratios of the three biopolymers konjac gum, tara gum and algin were used and the resulting stability, texture and viscosity of the formulation determined, as described above. The results were then used to calculate the ternary plot shown in Figure 1 , with the white areas in said plot indicating those weight ratios which gave a stability of 1-3, a viscosity of 1000 to 320000 mPa.s, and a texture of 1-2.5 (Figure 1). The respective grey areas thus indicate where the stability, viscosity and / or texture threshold were not achieved.

Claims

Claims1 . Composition suitable for a cosmetic application comprising a) at least two of (a1) tara gum, (a2) xanthan gum, (a3) algin, and (a4) konjac gum b) water; and c) optionally at least one hydrophobic component selected from the group consisting of emollients, consistency agents and effect substances, wherein the consistency agents are selected from the group consisting of fats, waxes, alcohols and I or hydrocarbons with a melting point above 45 °C at standard pressure of 1013 mbar, and wherein the effect substances are selected from pearlescent waxes; and d) at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from (a) to (c); wherein the relative amount of each component comprised in the composition is not higher than 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 10 % by weight of components (a1) to (a4) in total, and 0.1 to 80.0 % by weight of components (c) and (d) in total, wherein optionally the balance to 100 % by weight is water.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is an aqueous composition, preferably a hydrodispersion.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one hydrophobic component (c) is or comprises(1) at least one emollient selected from oils, fats and / or waxes, preferably from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono-Zdialkylethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof; and / or(2) at least one consistency agent selected from fats, waxes, alcohols and I or hydrocarbons with a melting point above 45 °C; and / or(3) at least one pearlescent wax selected from the group consisting of alkylene glycol esters; fatty acid alkanolamides; partial glycerides; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; fatty substances; fatty acids; ringopening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises(1) at least 3 or all 4 of (a1), (a2), (a3) and (a4);(2) at least (a1);(3) (a1) and (a2);(4) (a1) and (a3);(5) (a1) and (a4);(6) (a2) and (a3);(7) (a2) and (a4);(8) (a3) and (a4);(9) (a1), (a2), and (a3);(10) (a1), (a2), and (a4);(11) (a1), (a3) and (a4);(12) (a2), (a3), and (a4); or(13) (a1), (a2), (a3) and (a4).

5. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising(1) (a2) and (a3) in a weight ratio of 1 :1 .5 to 4:1 , preferably 0.8:1 to 1 .2:1 ;(2) (a1) and (a2) in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 3:1 , preferably 10:1 to 7:1 ;(3) (a1) and (a3) in a weight ratio of 1 :6 to 2:1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :0.7;(4) (a2) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 1 .5:1 , preferably about 10:1 to 2:1 ;(5) (a1) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 1 .5:1 to 1 :20, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :6;(6) (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio of 4:1 to 1 :4, preferably 3:1 to 1 :3;(7) (a1), (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio within the white area of the ternary diagram of Figure 1 , preferably the white area of the ternary diagram of Figure 1 with the hatched area of Figures 3, 4, 15 and 16 of international patent publication WO 2023 / 247470 A1 being excluded; or(8) (a1), (a3) and (a4) in a weight ratio of >1 .0:0.8-1 .0:0.8-1 .0, preferably about 2:1 :1.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.2 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight of the total of all components (a1) to (a4), and 0.1 to 80.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 60 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 50 % by weight of components (c) and (d) in total, wherein the balance to 100 % by weight is water.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of component (a2) is less than 0.3 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that (a) is not a binary combination of (a2) and (a3).

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a composition for application to a keratinous surface, preferably suitable for styling and conditioning hair or is a skin care composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one further cosmetic ingredient (d) comprises at least one component selected from the group consisting of preservatives; humectants; neutralizing agents; buffering agents;metal salts; complexing agents; surfactants; solubilizers; sensory modifiers; film forming agents; fragrances; opacifiers; actives; plasticizers; hydrotropes; conditioning agents;UV filters; dyes; colorants and pigments; antioxidants; and combinations thereof.

10. The use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for application to keratinous materials, preferably hair or skin, more preferably for styling or conditioning hair or for skin care and cleansing.

11. A process for styling or conditioning hair, comprising contacting the hair to the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

12. A process for achieving cleansing, caring or protecting effects to skin, comprising contacting the skin with the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

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