High internal phase water-in-silicone (w / s) cosmetic composition having excellent stability
The silicone-in-water cosmetic composition with a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based emulsifier and high aqueous phase addresses the limitations of traditional formulations by providing effective pigment dispersibility, stability, and skincare benefits with minimal oil content.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/KR2025/005497
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-14
- Filing Date
- 2025-04-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic formulations face challenges in providing skincare effects such as moisture and UV protection while maintaining a light, non-oily feel due to high oil content, which limits the dispersibility of pigments and formulation stability.
A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W/S) cosmetic composition using a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier and a high aqueous phase with minimal oil content, enhancing pigment dispersibility and stability, while maintaining a refreshing feel and skincare benefits.
The composition achieves excellent water drop effect, moisturizing properties, and UV protection with high pigment content, ensuring formulation stability and a non-oily skin feel.
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Figure KR2025005497_20112025_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
High stability, high-temperature silicone-based (W / S) cosmetic composition
[0001] The present invention relates to a high-stability, water-in-water (W / S) silicone cosmetic composition comprising an oil and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier.
[0002] Typically, emulsified cosmetic compositions are broadly categorized into oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, where the continuous phase is water-soluble components, and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, where the continuous phase is oil-soluble components. In the case of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, the hydrophilic components are applied preferentially to the skin, resulting in a moist and soft feeling when used. On the other hand, in the case of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, the continuous phase, oil, comes into contact with the skin first, resulting in a relatively heavy, oily feeling. To improve this heavy feeling of oil, research has been conducted to apply soft and light silicone oils as the continuous phase of water-in-oil emulsions. Currently, water-in-silicone (W / S) formulations that use large amounts of silicone oil as an external phase have been developed and are being delivered to consumers in various products. Due to their unique structural characteristics, silicone oil is a very light raw material with excellent spreadability and applicability, and excellent skin safety. In addition, silicone oil has a unique appearance and feel depending on the molecular weight and structural differences, and when applied to a formulation, it can provide a unique formulation and feel, and through this, water-in-oil formulations have made a leap forward into silicone-in-water form.
[0003] Recently, there have been many attempts to add skincare properties to makeup products. However, the formulation of general makeup products has adopted a method of adding a high oil content as a way to effectively disperse a high content of pigment for makeup function. However, this formulation has an inherent limitation in providing skincare effects such as moisture due to the high content of oil, powder, and UV blocker. To overcome this limitation, we developed a high-moisture silicone-in-water (W / S) formulation that minimizes the external (oil) content in the formulation and contains a large amount of moisture while providing excellent makeup effect and UV protection, giving the skin a refreshing feeling and skincare effect with an immediate moisturizing feeling upon application.
[0004] The inventors of the present invention sought to maximize the aqueous content while maintaining the pigment content in order to maximize the skin care effect while maintaining the makeup function. To this end, the content of the aqueous phase (oil phase + emulsifier) had to be reduced, and a technology was sought to be invented that can effectively disperse pigments well in a small amount of aqueous phase and stably form emulsified particles.
[0005] As a result of the efforts described above, a composition comprising oil and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier was developed to support a high content of pigment and water with minimal trauma, and the composition of the present invention minimizes trauma by including oil, particularly alkylsilane-based oil, and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier, while having high pigment and water content and excellent stability, and excellent water drop and moisture effect were confirmed, thereby completing the present invention.
[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a high-internal phase silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising an oil and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier as external phases; and a pigment and an aqueous phase as internal phases.
[0007] The high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises oil and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier, has a high formulation stability while containing a high content of pigment and a high content of water phase with a minimum amount of external phase, and exhibits an excellent water drop effect and moisturizing effect.
[0008] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a silicone-based water-based (W / S) cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0009] Figure 2 is a graph comparing changes in moisture content after application according to pigment content in Experimental Example 4.
[0010] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the emulsifiers of the examples and comparative examples used in this experiment.
[0011] Figure 4 is a photo comparing the size of emulsifier particles according to the type of emulsifier.
[0012] The present invention is described in detail below.
[0013] The present invention provides a high-internal phase silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising an oil and a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier as external phases; and a pigment and an aqueous phase as internal phases.
[0014] The above oil may be a non-polar or polar oil. Preferably, it may be a non-polar oil.
[0015] The above non-polar oil may be an alkylsilane oil selected from the group consisting of Caprylyl trimethicone, Lauryl methicone, Caprylyl methicone, and Methyl trimethicone, preferably from the group consisting of Caprylyl methicone and Methyl trimethicone, but is not limited thereto, and any alkylsilane oil commonly used in the technical field of the present invention may be used.
[0016] The above oil is included in an amount of 70 wt% or more based on the total content of the external component, and the external component may further include a moisturizer, an emollient, an ultraviolet absorber, a thickener, a film-forming agent, a suspending agent, a surfactant, an emulsifier, an elastomer, a wax, etc.
[0017] The non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, and polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, preferably from the group consisting of lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone and polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, but is not limited thereto, and any non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier commonly used in the technical field of the present invention may be used. In the examples of the present invention, it was confirmed that when a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier (Examples 4 and 5 of Experimental Example 2) was used, flowability, pigment dispersibility, emulsification stability, and water drop effect were comprehensively superior to not only a crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier (Comparative Example 6 of Experimental Example 2) but also a PEG-based silicone emulsifier (non-crosslinked & crosslinked) (Comparative Examples 3 to 5 of Experimental Example 2).
[0018] The non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier may be included in an amount of 0.5 to 4 wt%, preferably 0.6 to 3.5 wt%, more preferably 0.7 to 2 wt%, and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the entire composition. In the examples of the present invention, it can be confirmed that Example 3 and Comparative Example 2, in which the content of the emulsifier exceeds 4 wt%, have a lower water drop effect (moisture feeling, etc.) than Examples 1 and 2.
[0019] The cosmetic composition of the present invention, prepared with the composition and content described above, can stably maintain a composition containing a low oil content and a high moisture and pigment content. This is in contrast to the previously known method of using an excessive amount of oil to increase the stability of a composition containing a high pigment content (e.g., Korean Patent No. 10-1737397).
[0020] The pigment may include one or more selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), silica, nylon, polyurethane, ultramarine, pearl, synthetic mica, mica, talc, alumina, sericite, and boron nitride, but is not limited thereto.
[0021] The above-mentioned composition may include water; and one or more selected from the group consisting of a pH adjusting agent, a UV blocking agent, a polyol, and an inorganic salt.
[0022] In the present invention, the polyol may be included in the aqueous phase at a maximum of 10% by weight. If the composition contains more than 10% polyol, it may have a moisturizing effect, but it may cause moisture loss from the skin, causing the skin to become dry and reducing the persistence of the moisturizing feeling. In addition, it may cause changes in the texture or feel of the cosmetic, such as a sticky or wet feeling when applied to the skin, and may cause skin irritation. In addition, it may affect the interface, reducing the stability of the formulation, and may also affect changes in fragrance, etc. The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned shortcomings by appropriately including the polyol, while also having the advantage of a water drop effect and high moisturizing feeling. This is in contrast to existing methods that contain excessive amounts of polyol (e.g., Korean Patent No. 10-1737397).
[0023] The above cosmetic composition may be, but is not limited to, a concealer, sunscreen, primer, foundation, face powder, or BB cream, and may be any formulation used as a makeup cosmetic or UV protection product.
[0024] The above-mentioned high-intensity coating may contain 70 wt% or more, 73 wt% or more, 75 wt% or more, or 80 wt% or more of the internal coating based on the total weight of the silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition.
[0025] The ratio of the above trauma:pigment may be 1:0.5 to 1:1.5 by weight, preferably 1:0.9 to 1:1.2.
[0026] The ratio of the above external and internal injuries may be 10:90 to 30:70, preferably 15:85 to 20:80, by weight.
[0027] The above-described high-intensity silicone water-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition may comprise 10 to 30 wt% of the outer phase, 70 to 90 wt% of the inner phase, or 15 to 25 wt% of the outer phase, and 75 to 85 wt% of the inner phase, based on the total weight of the entire composition. The inner phase may comprise an aqueous phase and a pigment, and the pigment may be comprised in an amount of 5 to 30 wt%, preferably 10 to 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the entire composition. The total sum of the weight % of the outer phase and the inner phase (aqueous phase + pigment) may exist in a range not exceeding 100 wt%.
[0028] In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain, within the scope of the purpose of the present invention, ingredients or auxiliary agents included in the cosmetic composition, such as fatty substances, organic solvents, solubilizers, thickeners and gelling agents, emollients, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, foaming agents, fragrances, surfactants, water, ionic or nonionic emulsifiers, bulking agents, metal ion sequestering agents and chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blocking agents, moisturizers, humectants, essential oils, dyes, pigments, fragrances, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, lipid vesicles or conventional silicones.
[0029] Each of the above-mentioned ingredients included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention within a range that preferably does not exceed the maximum usage amount specified in the regulations related to “cosmetic use / license” stipulated by the government of each country.
[0030] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be applied alone or in combination, or may be applied in combination with other cosmetic compositions other than those of the present invention. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used according to conventional methods, and the frequency of application may vary depending on the user's skin condition or preference.
[0031] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples. However, the following examples are merely illustrative of the present invention, and the content of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
[0032] The materials and reagents used in the present examples and comparative examples were purchased from cosmetic raw material manufacturers and commercial suppliers, and the indicated contents are based on weight%.
[0033] Experimental Example 1: Experiment to Select Optimal Emulsifier Content
[0034]
[0035] Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were manufactured using the same prescription as in Table 1 above and the following manufacturing method.
[0036] 1. Measure the amount of oil, water, and pigment respectively.
[0037] 2. Dissolve the oil by stirring
[0038] 3. Add pigment to the oil phase and stir.
[0039] 4. Stir the water to dissolve it.
[0040] 5. Slowly add the water dissolved in the oil + pigment and stir.
[0041] 6. After stirring, defoaming
[0042] The effects of manufactured examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 are described in Table 2 below.
[0043] In the following experimental examples, viscosity and hardness were measured as follows.
[0044] Viscosity: Viscosity was measured for 1 minute using a Brookfield DV2T Viscometer at Spindle #4 and 30 rpm. For viscosity measurements, samples were placed in 100 ml cylindrical containers and stored in a 25°C constant temperature bath for one day before measurement.
[0045] Hardness: Using Rheotech's FUDOH RHEOMETER RTC 3005D, a 15Φ pin from the dedicated adapter #9 was used to measure hardness at a speed of 2 cm / min to a depth of 2.5 cm. For hardness measurement, the sample was placed in a 100 ml cylindrical container and stored in a 25℃ constant temperature bath for one day before measurement.
[0046] In the examples and comparative examples below, the samples whose hardness was measured did not have a viscosity of 20,000 cPs or higher. For the samples whose viscosity was not measured, the physical properties were measured by hardness instead of viscosity. Although it varies depending on the formulation, a viscosity of 20,000 cPs is approximately equivalent to a hardness of 20 dyne / cm. 2 It is similar to .
[0047] Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Pigment dispersibility ◎◎◎○◎ Emulsion stability △◎◎X◎ Viscosity on the first day (cPs) 49601132013100210016200 Water drop effect ◎◎○◎X Very bad: X, Poor: △, Average: ○ Very good: ◎
[0048] In Examples 1, 2, and 3 containing 0.5 wt%, 2 wt%, and 4 wt% of a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based emulsifier, excellent pigment dispersibility, emulsion stability, and water drop effect were confirmed.
[0049] Experimental Example 2: Experiment to Select the Optimal Emulsifier Type
[0050] In Experimental Example 1, Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 3 to 6 were manufactured using the same manufacturing method as Experimental Example 1, using the same prescription as in Table 3 below. The structural schematic diagrams of the emulsifiers used in the Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Fig. 3, and the size comparison photographs of emulsifying particles according to the type of emulsifier are shown in Fig. 4.
[0051]
[0052] The effects of manufactured examples 4 and 5 and comparative examples 3 to 6 are described in Table 4 below.
[0053] Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Flowability during emulsification ◎◎△◎○ - Pigment dispersibility ◎◎△○X - Emulsification stability ◎◎◎X△ - Viscosity on the first day (cPs) 10580450060002780 Formulation X Hardness on the first day (dyne / cm) 2 )31 Waterdrop Effect◎◎△◎◎-
[0054] Examples 4 and 5, in which 1 wt% of a non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based emulsifier was added, were confirmed to have excellent dispersibility, stability, and waterdrop effect. Comparative Example 3 had good stability but a poor waterdrop effect, and Comparative Examples 4 to 6 had poor stability or did not form a formulation. Referring to Fig. 4, the non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier (Fig. 4, 2) forms larger particles than the non-crosslinked PEG-based silicone emulsifier (Fig. 4, 1) and forms more uniform particles than the crosslinked PEG-based silicone emulsifier (Fig. 4, 3), making it suitable for forming microemulsions and very effective in powder dispersion compared to other emulsifiers.
[0055] Experimental Example 3: Base Oil Type Selection Experiment
[0056] After selecting the type and content of the emulsifier in Experimental Examples 1 and 2, Examples 4, 6 to 11 were manufactured using the same manufacturing method as Experimental Example 1, using the same prescription as in Table 5 below, in order to confirm the effect according to the type of base oil.
[0057]
[0058] The effects of manufactured examples 4, 6 to 11 are described in Table 6 below.
[0059] Example 4 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Flowability during emulsification ◎◎△△◎◎△Pigment dispersibility ◎◎○○○○○Emulsification stability ◎○◎◎△◎◎1st day viscosity (cPs) 1058076004600137001st day hardness (dyne / cm) 2 )283625 Water Drop Effect◎◎△△◎○△Very Bad: X, Bad: △, Average: ○, Very Good: ◎
[0060] Formulation was possible with various non-polar and polar oils. However, it was confirmed that the most preferable application of non-polar oils, alkylsilane oil (Examples 4 and 6), resulted in better pigment dispersibility and stability.
[0061] Experimental Example 4: Moisture Comparison Experiment
[0062] In order to compare the moisture content according to the presence or absence of pigment, Example 4 and Reference Example were manufactured using the same manufacturing method as Experimental Example 1, using the same recipe as in Table 7 below.
[0063] Ingredient name: See Example 4. Exception: Oil phase: Caprylyl methicone 15, 15 lauryl polyglyceryl-3, polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 11, inner phase: pigment: titanium dioxide and iron oxide 180, water phase: purified water to 100, to 100, tromethamine 1.6, 1.6 phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 3, 3 butylene glycol 4, 4 ethanol 4, 4 1,2-hexanediol 11, sodium chloride 0.5, 0.5, total 100, 100
[0064] The effects of the manufactured Example 4 and Reference Example are described in Table 8 below. A comparative graph of changes in moisture content after application of Example 4 and Reference Example is shown in Fig. 2.
[0065] Example 4 Reference Example Water Drop Effect ◎◎ Immediate Moisture ◎◎ Very Bad: X, Bad: △, Average: ○, Very Good: ◎
[0066] Typically, when pigments are added to a base formulation, the waterdrop effect and moisture content are reduced. However, the waterdrop effect and moisture content of Example 4, which contained a high pigment content, as well as the moisture content measured by a corneometer immediately after application and after 1 hour, were confirmed to be at similar levels compared to the reference example, which was a base formulation without pigments.
[0067] Accordingly, it was confirmed that the silicone-based cosmetic composition of the present invention achieved sufficient water drop effect, moisture feeling, and moisture content while containing a high content of pigment.
Claims
1. Oil and non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifiers as external agents; and A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising pigments and water as internal components.
2. In paragraph 1, The above oil is a high-intensity silicone water-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition that is a non-polar or polar oil.
3. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising the oil in an amount of 70 to 95 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
4. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition, wherein the above-mentioned external component is included in an amount of 10 to 30 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
5. In paragraph 2, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition wherein the above non-polar oil is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, caprylyl methicone, and methyl trimethicone.
6. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition, wherein the non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
7. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition, wherein the non-crosslinked polyglycerin-based silicone emulsifier is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 4 wt% based on the total weight of the entire composition.
8. In paragraph 1, A high-performance silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising one or more pigments selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), silica, nylon, polyurethane, ultramarine, pearl, synthetic mica, mica, talc, alumina, sericite, and boron nitride.
9. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition, wherein the pigment is contained in an amount of 5 to 30 wt% based on the total weight of the entire composition.
10. In paragraph 1, A high-intensity silicone water-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition comprising: water; and one or more selected from the group consisting of a pH adjuster, a UV-blocking ingredient, a polyol, and an inorganic salt.
11. In paragraph 10, A high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition, wherein the polyol is contained in an amount of 1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the entire composition.
12. In paragraph 1, The above cosmetic composition is a high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition that is a concealer, sunscreen, primer, foundation, face powder or BB cream.
13. In paragraph 1, The above-mentioned high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition is a high-intensity silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition containing an internal phase of 70 wt% or more based on the total weight of the silicone-in-water (W / S) cosmetic composition.
Citation Information
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