Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polymer bearing particular groups, an amino silicone with hydrocarbon end groups and an alkane; and cosmetic treatment process
A cosmetic composition using silicone polymers and amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups in a non-silicone solvent addresses the environmental impact of high-silicone compositions, providing enhanced hair manageability, softness, and volume control with reduced greasiness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/063186
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-22
- Filing Date
- 2025-05-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of silicone compounds have a significant environmental impact, and there is a need to reduce their content without compromising cosmetic properties such as sheen, softness, and manageability.
A cosmetic composition comprising silicone polymers with alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional groups, amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups, and linear or branched alkanes, formulated in a non-silicone solvent to provide sheen, softness, and manageability, while reducing the use of dimethicone.
The composition achieves long-lasting manageability, softness, and smoothness, with improved volume control and curl definition under humid conditions, while minimizing greasiness and requiring less product application.
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Abstract
Description
Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polymer bearing particular groups, an amino silicone with hydrocarbon end groups and an alkane; and cosmetic treatment process
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising a silicone polymer bearing particular functional groups, a particular silicone polymer and a non-silicone solvent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using this composition.
[0002] It is known, for example from patent application WO2015 / 011259, to use polymers containing silicone units bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional groups, for shaping the hair and giving it good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of a soft feel.
[0003] Hair serum compositions are also known comprising these same polymers in combination with fatty-chain silicones, these compositions imparting good humidity resistance to the hair and also a long-lasting anti-frizz (frizz control) effect, with an adequate amount of sheen. These compositions also make it possible to thermally protect the hair, for example during the subsequent use of steam and / or heat. The cosmetically acceptable medium of these compositions is constituted of one or more silicones, in particular one or more dimethicones, which help to convey the silicone compounds and can contribute to achieving the desired properties.
[0004] However, it is sought to reduce the contents of silicone compounds in these cosmetic compositions in order to reduce their environmental impact, this objective preferably having to be achieved without compromising the cosmetic properties provided by the compositions.
[0005] There is therefore a real need to find a means of formulating these silicone polymers in a medium comprising fewer, or even no, silicones of dimethicone type.
[0006] This objective is achieved by means of the present invention, one subject of which is a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0007] (i) one or more silicone polymers bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s),
[0008] (ii) one or more amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
[0009] (iii) one or more linear or branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0010] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a transparent anhydrous serum.
[0011] It makes it possible to provide sheen and softness to the hair, and also manageability which allows it to be used to combat frizz.
[0012] When the composition is applied to the hair before blow-drying and / or before the use of a heating means such as a straightening iron, it also makes it possible to provide an extremely high-performance and long-lasting degree of manageability, softness and smoothness to the touch; this persistence of the effects can thus make it possible to allow intervals between the application of the composition, compared with the application of current compositions, while retaining the cosmetic effects.
[0013] Moreover, the composition according to the invention results in excellent cosmetic properties being obtained, in particular as regards hair volume control and curl definition, notably under humid conditions.
[0014] Furthermore, a small amount of product is necessary in order to provide the hair with the expected qualities; thus preventing the appearance of a greasy feel that is often found in cosmetic compositions, in the course of applications thereof.
[0015] In that which will follow and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from ... to ...”, which are interchangeable.
[0016] The expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”, and can also be substituted for it.1 / Silicone polymers (i)
[0017] The composition of the invention therefore comprises one or more silicone polymers bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s). It is understood that a polymer may bear just one, but preferably several, alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional groups.
[0018] These polymers are preferably of formula (I) below:
[0019] in which:
[0020] - Z2,which may be identical or different, represents a –CH2-NR3R4group in which
[0021] - R3represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group and R4represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group; or
[0022] - R3and R4form, with the nitrogen atom bearing them, a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, N (NH) or S;
[0023] - Z3, which may be identical or different,represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an OR5group with R5 denoting a C1-C6 alkyl group;
[0024] - R1, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group;
[0025] - Ra, Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C2 alkyl group; and
[0026] - n represents an integer greater than 1.
[0027] Preferably, the C1-C6 alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups.
[0028] Preferably, Z2represents a –CH2-NR3R4group in which R4represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group and R3represents a hydrogen atom, or else R3and R4form, with the nitrogen atom which bears them, a 6-membered heterocycle, comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms in total (including the nitrogen atom of the NR3R4group), preferably 2 heteroatoms in total, in particular 2 heteroatoms chosen from O and N, even better still 1 nitrogen atom N and one oxygen atom O, preferably a morpholino group.
[0029] When R4represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, it preferably represents a cyclohexyl group.
[0030] Preferably, Z3represents an OR5group, R5representing a C1-C6 alkyl group, in particular a C1-C2 alkyl group and preferably an OCH3(methoxy) or OCH2CH3(ethoxy) group, preferentially ethoxy.
[0031] Preferably, R1is a C1-C2 alkyl group, preferentially ethyl.
[0032] Preferably, n ranges from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000 and preferentially from 8 to 400.
[0033] Preferably, the SiRaRb-[OSiRaRb]n- unit of formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of between 200 and 40 000, preferentially between 400 and 25 000.
[0034] As examples of polymers corresponding to formula (I), mention may be made of:
[0035] - polymers of formula (Ia):
[0036] in which n represents an integer greater than 1, in particular ranging from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000, and preferentially from 8 to 400.
[0037] These polymers may be obtained by reacting a hydroxy-terminated silicone, with triethoxy(cyclohexylaminomethyl)silane notably according to the techniques described in document WO 2005 / 108495.
[0038] According to a particular example, the polymer (Iaa), corresponding to formula (Ia), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g / mol.
[0039] - polymers of formula (Ib) in which n represents an integer greater than 1, in particular ranging from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000 and preferentially from 8 to 400.
[0040] The polymers of formula (Ib) may be obtained by reacting a hydroxy-terminated silicone with diethoxy(cyclohexylaminomethyl)methylsilane especially according to the techniques described in WO 2005 / 108495.
[0041] According to a particular example, polymer (Iba), corresponding to formula (Ib), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g / mol.
[0042] - polymers of formula (Ic):
[0043] in which n represents an integer greater than 1, in particular ranging from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000, and preferentially from 8 to 400.
[0044] The polymers of formula (Ic) may be obtained by reacting a hydroxy-terminated silicone with triethoxy(morpholinomethyl)silane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2009 / 019165.
[0045] According to a particular example, polymer (Ica), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g / mol.
[0046] According to another particular example, polymer (Icb), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass of 10 600 g / mol.
[0047] According to another particular example, polymer (Icc), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass of 14 600 g / mol.
[0048] According to another particular example, polymer (Icd), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 21 100 g / mol.
[0049] According to another particular example, polymer (Ice), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 550 g / mol.
[0050] According to another particular example, polymer (Icf), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1000 g / mol.
[0051] According to another particular example, polymer (Icg), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1200 g / mol.
[0052] According to another particular example, polymer (Ich), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1700 g / mol.
[0053] - polymers of formula (Id):
[0054] in which n represents an integer greater than 1, in particular ranging from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000, and preferentially from 8 to 400.
[0055] The polymers of formula (Id) may be obtained by reacting a hydroxy-terminated silicone with diethoxy(morpholinomethyl)methylsilane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2009 / 019165.
[0056] According to a particular example, the polymer of formula (Ida), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g / mol.
[0057] According to another particular example, the polymer of formula (Idb), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 10 600 g / mol.
[0058] According to another particular example, the polymer of formula (Idc), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 14 600 g / mol.
[0059] According to a particular example, the polymer of formula (Idd), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 21 100 g / mol.
[0060] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s) are chosen from polymers corresponding to formula (Ic) above.
[0061] Mention may very particularly be made of the polymers having the INCI name: Bis-(Morpholinomethyl C1-4 Dialkoxysiloxy) Dimethicone.
[0062] The composition preferably comprises the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s), in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, or even from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] The composition preferably comprises the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s) chosen from the polymers of formula (Ic), in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, or even from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.2 / Amino silicones
[0064] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones comprising hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0065] Said amino silicones are different from the silicone polymers bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s) described above.
[0066] The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0067] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
[0068] The amino silicones according to the invention comprise one or more hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for said groups optionally to be hydroxylated and / or to comprise one or more heteroatoms, notably O.
[0069] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "end groups" is intended to mean that said groups are located in the alpha and omega positions of the main silicone chain, that is to say each end of the main silicone chain.
[0070] The hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain R comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0071] The hydrocarbon group can also comprise an oxygen atom, and thus can be an alkoxylated chain (-O-R) with R = linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0072] Said alkyl chains R can optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups (OH).
[0073] The amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups that may be used in the context of the invention may be chosen notably from, alone or as a mixture, the silicones of formula (II):
[0074] in which:
[0075] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
[0076] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0077] - A denotes a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon (alkylene) radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0078] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; better still A comprises 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, A is branched.
[0079] Preferably, A may be chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0080] Preferably, R1and R2are identical.
[0081] Preferably, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28, better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0082] The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (II) in which:
[0083] - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;
[0084] - y ranges from 1 to 100;
[0085] - A is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon (alkylene) radical comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and
[0086] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0087] Preferably, the amino silicone is a bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive.
[0088] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) with hydrocarbon end groups in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) with hydrocarbon end groups corresponding to formula (II) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.3 / Alkanes
[0090] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. This or these alkane(s) may be linear or branched, and are preferably chosen from branched alkanes. Very obviously, use may be made of a mixture of these different alkanes.
[0091] Preferably, the alkane(s) comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still 12 carbon atoms.
[0092] Preferably, the branched alkane(s) comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still 12 carbon atoms.
[0093] The alkane(s) may notably be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from octane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, isooctane, isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane; better still from isooctane, isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane; even better still from isodecane, isododecane and isotetradecane; advantageously isododecane.
[0094] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the alkane(s) comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms in a total amount ranging from 80% to 98% by weight, preferably from 85% to 97% by weight and preferentially from 90% to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in a total amount ranging from 80% to 98% by weight, preferably from 85% to 97% by weight and preferentially from 90% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.4 / Other ingredients
[0096] The composition according to the invention is advantageously anhydrous; it is understood by this that it comprises less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably less than 0.1% of water, or even no water at all (0%).
[0097] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fragrancing substances.
[0098] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fragrancing substance” is intended to denote any perfume or any odoriferous raw material or aroma capable of giving off a pleasant odour. For the purposes of the present invention, “fragrancing”, “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonymous.
[0099] The fragrancing substances may notably comprise the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials – 1991, Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
[0100] The fragrancing substances may advantageously be chosen from essential oils, perfumes, aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof. They may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles or peroxides, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic.
[0101] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fragrancing substance(s) in a total content which can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.8% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The compositions according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of a hair composition, notably in the form of lotion or serum, notably conditioning lotion or serum.
[0103] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, more particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as described above.
[0104] The application may be performed on dry or wet hair, preferably on wet hair.
[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after it has been applied.
[0106] The step of applying the composition may optionally be followed, and preferably is followed, by a step of applying heat and / or steam. This step of applying heat and / or steam can be carried out using a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a curling iron, or a straightening iron combining heat and steam. The step of applying heat and / or steam is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 40°C to 250°C, better still from 50°C to 240°C, even better still from 100°C to 230°C, preferentially from 110°C to 220°C, and even better still from 180°C to 220°C.
[0107] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following example which illustrates the invention without limiting it.Example 1
[0108] The following hair composition according to the invention is prepared comprising, as % by weight of active material (AM), the following ingredients:
[0109] Composition 1Bis-(morpholinomethyl C1-4 dialkoxysiloxy) dimethicone5Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone2FragranceqsIsododecaneqs 100
[0110] A cosmetic composition is obtained which can be used as a hair lotion to be applied to wet hair, notably to the lengths and ends, preferably without a subsequent rinsing step (leave-on composition).
[0111] After application of the composition, heat can be applied to the hair, for example using a hair dryer and / or a straightening iron.
[0112] It is noted that the composition makes it possible to impart manageability to the hair and thus makes it possible to combat frizz; it also imparts great softness to the touch and sheen to the hair. The hair does not appear greasy, either to the touch or visually.Example 2
[0113] The following hair compositions according to the invention and comparative hair compositions are prepared comprising, as % by weight of active material (AM), the following ingredients:
[0114] Composition 2 according to the inventionComparative composition 3Comparative composition 4Bis-(morpholinomethyl C1-4 dialkoxysiloxy) dimethicone575Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone2 / / Dimethiconol1.651.651.65FragranceqsqsqsIsododecaneqs 100qs 100qs 100
[0115] Cosmetic compositions that can be used as hair lotions are obtained.
[0116] Evaluation of the control of the volume and frizz under humid conditions
[0117] Compositions 2, 3 or 4 were applied to locks of wet, moderately sensitized hair (alkaline solubility = 20%, AS20) in a proportion of 0.05 g of composition per g of lock, notably to the lengths and ends.
[0118] The locks were then dried with a hair dryer and then smoothed by 2 successive passes with a straightening iron at 190°C. They were suspended and then photographed.
[0119] In order to evaluate the resistance to humidity, the locks are placed under 80% relative humidity for 1 hour, before being photographed again.
[0120] The volume control under humid conditions was evaluated visually, by comparative photography: The smaller the area occupied by the lock, the better the volume control and the more lasting the smoothing. The sharper the contour of the lock (absence of small loose hairs), the better the frizz control.Results
[0121] After 1 hour in an 80% humidity atmosphere, the lock treated with composition 2 according to the invention occupies a much smaller area than the locks treated with comparative compositions 3 and 4, which do not comprise an amino silicone with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0122] Furthermore, the contour of the lock treated with composition 2 is sharp, without frizz, unlike the locks treated with comparative compositions 3 and 4, which do not comprise an amino silicone with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0123] Thus, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve control of the volume and frizz under humid conditions.
[0124] Evaluation of the persistence of the smooth, uniform feel and suppleness with respect to shampoo washing
[0125] In order to evaluate the persistence of the smooth, uniform feel and suppleness with respect to 1 shampoo wash, the previously treated locks, after smoothing with the straightening iron, were washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, then dried with a hair dryer before being smoothed again by 2 passes with the straightening iron at 190°C, and then evaluated.
[0126] In order to evaluate the smooth feel, and also the uniformity thereof along the length of the fibre, the expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger and slides their fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. The expert evaluates whether the hair is soft and supple, whether or not it has rough patches, whether or not the fingers catch on the hair, and whether the hair feels uniform.
[0127] The evaluation of suppleness is tactile. The expert takes handfuls of the locks and tries to fold them. An evaluation is made of their ability to easily bend, their malleability.
[0128] The performance was evaluated in a blind test: each of the 2 experts assigned a score between -2 and +2 to each of the locks. The score represents the difference with respect to composition 2 according to the invention, according to the following scale:
[0129] [-2]: the lock tested exhibits worse performance than composition 2 according to the invention.
[0130] [0]: the lock tested exhibits no difference with respect to composition 2 according to the invention.
[0131] [+2]: the lock tested exhibits better performance than composition 2 according to the invention.Results
[0132] The results of the persistence of the smooth, uniform feel and suppleness with respect to shampoo washing are presented in the tables below:
[0133] SMOOTHNESSComposition 2 according to the inventionComparative composition 3Comparative composition 4Expert 10-2-2Expert 20-2-2
[0134] UNIFORMITYComposition 2 according to the inventionComparative composition 3Comparative composition 4Expert 10-2-2Expert 20-2-2
[0135] SUPPLENESSComposition 2 according to the inventionComparative composition 3Comparative composition 4Expert 10-1-1Expert 20-1-1
[0136] The fibres treated with composition 2 according to the invention have a smoother, more uniform feel and are more supple than those treated with comparative compositions 3 and 4, which do not comprise an amino silicone with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0137] Thus, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the persistence of the smooth and uniform feel, and also the suppleness of the fibres, with respect to shampoo washing.
Claims
Cosmetic composition comprising:(i) one or more silicone polymers bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s),(ii) one or more amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and(iii) one or more linear or branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s) are of formula (I) below:(I)in which:- Z2,which may be identical or different, represents a –CH2-NR3R4group in which- R3represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group and R4represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group; or- R3and R4form, with the nitrogen atom bearing them, a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, N (NH) or S;- Z3, which may be identical or different,represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an OR5group with R5 denoting a C1-C6 alkyl group;- R1, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group;- Ra, Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C2 alkyl group; and- n represents an integer greater than 1;preferably,Z2representing a –CH2-NR3R4group in which R4represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, in particular cyclohexyl, and R3represents a hydrogen atom, or else R3and R4form, with the nitrogen atom which bears them, a 6-membered heterocycle, comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms in total, preferably 2 heteroatoms in total, in particular 2 heteroatoms chosen from O and N, even better still 1 nitrogen atom N and one oxygen atom O, preferably a morpholino group; and / orZ3represents an OR5group, R5representing a C1-C6 alkyl group, in particular a C1-C2 alkyl group and preferably an OCH3or OCH2CH3(ethoxy) group, preferentially ethoxy; and / orR1is a C1-C2 alkyl group, preferentially ethyl; and / orn ranges from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000 and preferentially from 8 to 400.Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s) are chosen from:- polymers of formula (Ia)(Ia)- polymers of formula (Ib)(Ib)- polymers of formula (Ic)(Ic)- polymers of formula (Id)(Id)in which n represents an integer greater than 1, in particular ranging from 1 to 10 000, better still from 5 to 1000, and preferentially from 8 to 400;preferably from the polymers of formula (Ic), and better still from the polymers with the INCI name: Bis-(Morpholinomethyl C1-4 Dialkoxysiloxy) Dimethicone.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the silicone polymer(s) bearing alkoxy(aminomethyl)silyl functional group(s), in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, or even from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicones with hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the silicones of formula (II):in which:- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;- R1and R2, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms;- A denotes a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon (alkylene) radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms;preferably A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; better still 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; preferably, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-; and / orpreferably, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28, better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.Composition according to Claim 5, in which the silicone(s) are of formula (II) in which:- x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;- y ranges from 1 to 100;- A is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon (alkylene) radical comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and- R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino silicone(s) with hydrocarbon end groups in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, better still 12 carbon atoms; preferably one or more branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16, better still from 10 to 14, even better still 12, carbon atoms; preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from octane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, isooctane, isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, isohexadecane; better still from isooctane, isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, isohexadecane; even better still from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane; advantageously isododecane.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the linear or branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in a total amount ranging from 80% to 98% by weight, preferably from 85% to 97% by weight and preferentially from 90% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being anhydrous (less than 0.5% by weight of water).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more fragrancing substances; preferably chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof; preferably, present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.8% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Process for the cosmetic treatment, more particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11.Process according to Claim 12, in which the step of applying the composition to the keratin materials is followed by a step of applying heat and / or steam.
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