Hydrogel, cosmetic composition containing same, and preparation method
A hydrogel with natural glycerin and carbomer composition addresses stickiness and opacity issues, offering improved sensory appeal and transparency in cosmetic products while maintaining performance and stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/FR2025/050234
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-20
- Filing Date
- 2025-03-26
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic hydrogels are often sticky, opaque, and contain high proportions of synthetic ingredients, which affect their sensory appeal and transparency, while formulations aiming for natural ingredients compromise performance and stability.
A hydrogel composition comprising 40% to 60% natural glycerin, 0.5% to 1% carbomer, 2% to 10% natural polyol, and water, with a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate structure, free of synthetic preservatives and thickeners, enhancing transparency and sensory appeal.
The hydrogel provides improved sensory properties, increased skin hydration, and maintains skincare performance without stickiness, while being transparent and composed of natural ingredients, suitable for cosmetic and hygiene products.
Smart Images

Figure FR2025050234_27112025_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
Description of hydrogel, cosmetic composition, container and preparation process Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a hydrogel comprising glycerin and a carbomer. This hydrogel possesses properties that activate the biological function of skin cells and finds application in the formulation of cosmetic or hygiene products applied topically. Previous technique
[0002] Several cosmetic aqueous gels combining synthetic compounds have been described in the prior art for their skin care properties, including their moisturizing and antimicrobial power.
[0003] These gels can, however, be sticky, and some users find the stickiness of a product on the skin a major drawback. Consumers of cosmetic products often seek formulas that leave no trace, both visually and to the touch, in order to maintain a "bare skin" feel.
[0004] Furthermore, consumers appreciate being able to see a product's color through its packaging, and their perception of a transparent product conveys a sense of naturalness. Moreover, the opaque or translucent nature of a hydrogel used as an intermediate in the preparation of a cosmetic product can limit formulation possibilities, as it alters the color of the final product and prevents the product itself from being transparent. However, some prior art hydrogels lack transparency.
[0005] Finally, prior art glycerin-based hydrogels contain high proportions of non-natural ingredients, which are essential for formulating to guarantee cosmetic performance, sensory properties, or stability over time. These synthetic ingredients include thickeners, emulsifiers, surfactants, solvents, and preservatives such as polyethylene glycols (PEG), propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, parabens, silicones, and ethoxydiglycol.
[0006] It is therefore desirable to offer cosmetic compositions and hygiene products that are more natural than in previous art while maintaining a level of effectiveness and sensory appeal expected by the consumer.
[0007] It would be particularly advantageous to have a natural product with efficacy and sensory qualities at least equivalent to, or even superior to, those of prior art products containing synthetic ingredients. Generally speaking, formulators face difficulties when substituting conventional raw materials with others in a particular formula, because the gain in naturalness comes at the expense of performance, organoleptic properties, or product stability.
[0008] To address the various issues mentioned above, the Applicant proposes a more natural hydrogel composition based on glycerin and natural polyols, whose properties are at least equivalent or even improved compared to prior art hydrogels containing synthetic ingredients. Description of the figures Figure 1 shows scanning electron microscopy images of hair from a first donor before and after washing in a shampoo bath, at four different magnifications (200, 1000, 5000, and 10000). Figure 2 shows images of hair from the first donor at the same magnifications, after the hair had been treated with the product of the invention before washing. Figure 3 shows scanning electron microscopy images of hair from a second donor before and after washing in a shampoo bath, at four different magnifications (200, 1000, 5000, and 10000). Figure 4 shows images of hair from the second donor at the same magnifications, after the hair had been treated with the product of the invention before washing. In the two photographs in Figure 5, we can visualize the attenuation of the intensity of pigmented spots on a person's hand between the first day (left) and the 56thème day of treatment with the product of the invention (right). Figure 6 is a diagram that shows the increase in VEGF production by hair bulb cells in the presence and absence of the product of the invention, using Minoxidil® as a control. Figure 7 shows the results of the percentage increase in telomere length of hair bulb cells in the presence and absence of the product of the invention, using Minoxidil® as a control. Figure 8 is a photograph of a composition comprising the hydrogel of the invention and Figure 9 is a photograph taken under the same conditions of a product of the same composition except that the hydrogel of the invention is replaced by a hydrogel of the prior art. Description of the invention
[0009] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic care composition or a personal hygiene product comprising: 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, other than glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms; and water, with percentages expressed as a percentage of the mass of the hydrogel.
[0010] A second object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hydrogel, to produce at least a non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.
[0011] In addition, the invention aims at a non-therapeutic use of the hydrogel, to produce at least a non-therapeutic sanitizing effect on the skin or mucous membranes, in particular the oral and nasal mucous membranes.
[0012] A third object of the invention relates to a cosmetic skin care composition and a body hygiene product for topical application comprising the hydrogel associated with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colouring matter, texturizing agent, sweetener, flavouring, foaming agent, and active ingredient.
[0013] A fourth object of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing the hydrogel characterized in that it comprises: a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, followed by a step of adding to the previous mixture natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and optionally a base. Description of the implementation methods
[0014] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition or a personal hygiene product, the hydrogel being essentially made up of: 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a crosslinked poly(meth)acrylate of glycerin; 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, different from glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols including natural propanediol and natural sorbitol; and water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.
[0015] The hydrogel of the invention has many advantages.
[0016] It was discovered, quite unexpectedly and surprisingly, that the hydrogel according to the invention possesses sensory properties equivalent to, or even improved upon, those of prior art hydrogels. In some embodiments, the hydrogel is more transparent and leaves a feeling of lightness on the skin because it is less sticky. It can be composed primarily of natural ingredients without diminishing its skincare, haircare, or mucous membrane care performance. Furthermore, the hydrogel increases the osmolarity of the dermal tissues, making it higher than that of the blood capillaries. This difference in osmolarity leads to water diffusion from the blood capillaries to the dermal tissues, and an increase in skin hydration. Finally, the hydrogel of the invention may advantageously contain no synthetic preservatives.
[0017] A hydrogel is defined as a composition with the consistency of a gel and containing water. Hydrogel can be used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations or personal hygiene products and, in this context, is dissolved in water added during the formulation preparation process.
[0018] Natural glycerin, also called natural glycerol (IUPAC name propane-1,2,3-triol, and INCI name GLYCERIN), can be vegetable glycerin obtained from a vegetable oil by processes known to those skilled in the art, such as transesterification, saponification, or the fermentation of sugars. Generally, the natural polyols used in the context of the invention can be obtained by the fermentation of natural sugars.
[0019] Natural glycerin represents 40% to 60%, for example 45% to 55% of the hydrogel.
[0020] The "INCI name" corresponds to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), the directory of which can be consulted on the website https: / / ec.europa.eu / growth / tools-databases / cosing / .
[0021] The name "carbomer" refers to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) CARBOMER, a crosslinked poly(meth)acrylic acid. Carbomers are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. They are polymers of (meth)acrylic acid crosslinked with one or more allylic polyol ethers, such as pentaerythritol allylic ether, sucrose allylic ether, or propylene glycol allylic ether. Such carbomers are commercially available under the references Carbopol® 940, Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 981, and Carbopol® 984, among others.
[0022] In the hydrogel of the invention, glycerin and carbomer advantageously form a particular cross-linked molecular structure, called cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate (which may also be called cross-linked glyceryl polyacrylate or cross-linked polyglyceryl acrylate). The carbomer can be neutralized by a base selected from sodium hydroxide (INCI name SODIUM HYDROXIDE), potassium hydroxide, or triethanolamine. Cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate is obtained by mixing glycerin and carbomer in water in the absence of any other chemical compound, and then neutralizing the mixture with a base as described above. Glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate can be either cross-linked glyceryl polyacrylate or cross-linked glyceryl polymethacrylate. The mass ratio of carbomer to glycerin used to prepare glycerin poly(meth)acrylate, or which are contained in the hydrogel, is preferably between 5 / 100 and 20 / 100, preferably still between 10 / 100 and 15 / 100.
[0023] The term "polyol" refers to a compound consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and at least two alcohol functions, the compound being different from glycerin.
[0024] The natural polyol comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms. It can be, for example, propanediol (also called 1,3-propanediol, IUPAC name propan-l,3-diol, INCI name PROPANEDIOL) or butanediol (IUPAC name butane-l,3-diol, INCI name BUTYLENE GLYCOL).
[0025] The hydrogel of the invention is advantageously free of propylene glycol (IUPAC name 1,2-propanediol and INCI name PROPYLENE GLYCOL) used in the prior art as a synthetic ingredient.
[0026] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the natural polyol is propanediol. Propanediol can represent from 10% to 20% of the hydrogel, for example from 10% to 15%.
[0027] The natural polyol can also be chosen from sugars found in nature such as sorbitol (INCI name SORBITOL), xylitol (INCI name XYLITOL), mannitol (INCI name MANNITOL) and erythritol (INCI name ERYTHRITOL).
[0028] In one particular embodiment, the hydrogel comprises 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols, including propanediol and sorbitol. The hydrogel may contain 10% to 20%, for example, 12% to 16%, of a mixture of propanediol and sorbitol. For example, the hydrogel may contain 10% to 25% or 11% to 14% propanediol and 0.5% to 2.5%, or even 1% to 2%, sorbitol. The percentages are expressed as a percentage of the mass of the hydrogel.
[0029] Natural caprylyl glycol is also known as 1,2-octanediol (IUPAC octane-1,2-diol, INCI name CAPRYLYL GLYCOL). It represents 2% to 10% of the hydrogel, for example, 4% to 8%.
[0030] For the purposes of this invention, "natural" means a cosmetic ingredient defined as natural or of natural origin by ISO 16128 (International Organization for Standardization 16128). "ISO 16128" refers to the set of texts that provide guidelines relating to technical definitions (Part 1: ISO 16128-1 April 2016) and criteria (Part 2: ISO 16128-2 December 2017 and ISO 16128-2 / A1 November 2022) applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.
[0031] The personal hygiene product of the invention may contain one or more ingredients described as "cosmetic" as described in this application.
[0032] According to ISO 16128 and for the purposes of this invention, a "natural" ingredient is one whose naturalness index is equal to 1. Natural ingredients are obtained exclusively from plants (including fungi and algae), animals, microorganisms, or minerals, including ingredients obtained from of these materials resulting (i) from physical processes (such as grinding, drying, distillation), (ii) from fermentation reactions existing in nature and leading to naturally occurring molecules, and (iii) from other methods of preparation, including traditional methods (e.g., extraction using solvents) without the intention of chemically altering the ingredient.
[0033] According to ISO 16128 and for the purposes of this invention, an "ingredient derived from natural materials" or "ingredient of natural origin" is defined as an ingredient having a naturalness index strictly greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. A cosmetic ingredient of natural origin is obtained through defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying it, either in its molecular structure or in its composition. The use of enzymatic and microbiological processes can also result in ingredients derived from natural materials when intentional chemical modification takes place.Chemical and / or biological processes can be chosen from among acylation, addition, C, O, N alkylation, calcination, carbonization, carbonation, condensation, enzymatic and microbiological processes, glycosylation, hydrogenation, hydrogenolysis, hydrolysis, ion exchange, olefin metathesis, oxidation, phosphorylation, reduction, or sulfation. The naturalness index of a naturally derived ingredient is calculated based on the proportion of the ingredient that is natural, starting, for example, with molecular weight or renewable carbon content.
[0034] If the molecular mass of the naturally derived ingredient is known, calculate the quotient (molecular mass of the natural fraction) / (molecular mass of the entire molecule). If the exact molecular mass of the ingredient is unknown, perform the following calculation (m n -mn e) / (m a -m as ) where m n is the mass of the initial natural raw materials, m ne is the mass of excess raw materials at the start, m a is the mass of all the raw materials initially, and m as This represents the mass of all raw materials initially in excess, where "excess" refers to the quantity of initial raw material subsequently recycled or disposed of. Note that the naturalness index value of a cosmetic ingredient can be provided by the supplier.
[0035] A "natural" ingredient within the meaning of the invention can be an ingredient whose naturalness index is greater than 0.80 and less than 1 (ingredient defined by ISO 16128 as an ingredient of natural origin) or an ingredient whose naturalness index is equal to 1 (ingredient defined by ISO 16128 as a natural ingredient).
[0036] The hydrogel of the invention may essentially consist of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, and water. "Essentially consisting of" means a hydrogel comprising the explicitly mentioned ingredients, but also other ingredients, provided that these do not alter the functionality and properties of the hydrogel. Such a hydrogel may optionally contain impurities, which come from the raw materials used for its manufacture. Thus, a hydrogel of the invention is essentially made up of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, and water, when the sum of the percentages of these ingredients is greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 90%, 92%, 94%, 96% and 98%.
[0037] In a particular embodiment, the hydrogel contains dimethyl isosorbide. The hydrogel may be essentially composed of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, including propylene glycol and sorbitol, dimethyl isosorbide and water, in the sense that the sum of the percentages of these ingredients is greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 90%, 92%, 94%, 96% and 98%.
[0038] The hydrogel preferably comprises less than 10% by mass of ingredients having a naturalness index of less than 0.8, and preferably even less than 10% by mass, or even less than 5% by mass of ingredients having a naturalness index of less than 1.
[0039] The hydrogel according to the invention can be characterized by a natural or naturally sourced content, which is advantageously greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%, the natural or naturally sourced content being defined as above.
[0040] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrogel according to the invention comprises, in addition to the ingredients described above, 5% to 7% dimethyl isosorbide. This percentage is, of course, by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.
[0041] A particular hydrogel of the invention contains or is essentially composed of 45% to 55% natural glycerin (INCI name GLYCERIN); 0.5% to 1.0% of at least one carbomer (INCI name CARBOMER); 11% to 14% natural propanediol (INCI name PROPANEDIOL); 1% to 2% natural sorbitol (INCI name SORBITOL); 4% to 8% natural caprylyl glycol (INCI name CAPRYLYL GLYCOL); 5% to 7% dimethyl isosorbide (INCI name DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE); and water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.
[0042] In a particular embodiment, the hydrogel is essentially made up of, or consisting of, 48% to 52% natural glycerin and 0.7% to 0.9% of at least one carbomer, the glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a crosslinked glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate; 12% to 13% natural propanediol; 1.2% to 1.8% natural sorbitol; 5% to 7% natural caprylyl glycol; 5.8% to 6.3% dimethyl isosorbide; and 15% to 28% water, the percentages being by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.
[0043] The hydrogel advantageously contains, in addition to glycerin, polyol, caprylyl glycol, and water, less than 10% by mass of natural ingredient(s) whose naturalness index is less than 1.
[0044] The hydrogel is advantageously free of synthetic ingredients, including polyethylene glycols, propylene glycol, preservatives such as parabens and phenoxyethanol, sodium laureth sulfate, and ethoxydiglycol, which were presented in the prior art as essential ingredients in hydrogel formulations. The hydrogel is also advantageously free of silicones and petroleum-derived mineral compounds such as paraffin oil, microcrystalline wax, or polybutene.
[0045] It was surprisingly discovered that a hydrogel with very good sensory application properties, and very good efficacy on the skin, scalp, hair fibers and mucous membranes, can be obtained by essentially formulating cosmetic raw materials with a naturalness index greater than 0.8, preferably equal to 1. The selection of cosmetic raw materials with a naturalness index greater than or equal to 0.80, and their joint formulation in particular proportions unexpectedly led to the hydrogel of the invention.
[0046] The hydrogel of the invention has many advantages. It is stable over time, has excellent skin tolerance, is essentially made up of natural ingredients without diminishing skin care performance, its transparency can be higher and its application to the skin can be more pleasant, especially with regard to the sticky feeling that known hydrogels can generate.
[0047] The hydrogel according to the invention can be characterized by a natural or naturally derived content, which is advantageously greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, and 98%. According to ISO 16128 and for the purposes of the present invention, the "natural or naturally derived content" of a product is understood to be an index that depends on the percentage of natural ingredients as defined in the standard and the percentage of naturally derived ingredients as defined in the standard in the product. The calculation of the natural or naturally derived content is an average of the ingredient concentrations weighted by the naturalness index of the ingredients. The natural or naturally derived content is equal to where C+H 20 is the natural or naturally derived content of the product, P a is the mass percentage of each ingredient a, and I na is the index of naturalness of each ingredient a.
[0048] A second object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hydrogel according to the invention, to produce at least one non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.
[0049] In some embodiments, the activation effect is chosen from the group consisting of an increase in the production of collagen and elastin by the skin, an increase in the skin hydration level, an increase in hair growth, an increase in hair pigmentation, a decrease in hair loss, a decrease in skin redness, and an increase in protection against aggressions. microbial growth, increased hair growth and a reduction in age spots.
[0050] The cosmetic use of hydrogel is not therapeutic. The same applies to the use of hydrogel in a personal hygiene product, such as deodorant or toothpaste.
[0051] A "non-therapeutic cosmetic use" within the meaning of the invention is the topical application of the hydrogel to healthy skin that is not affected by a disease such as, for example, inflammation, microbial infection, psoriasis, eczema, acne, or dermatitis. The cosmetic use of the hydrogel according to the invention is not intended for the treatment or prevention of any skin disease, even if it has an activating effect on one of its biological functions.
[0052] For the purposes of the invention, "good biological functioning" means biological functioning in a subject not exhibiting any disease in the medical sense of the term that is likely to affect the normal biological functioning of the subject (also referred to as "healthy subject").
[0053] For the purposes of this invention, "healthy skin" means skin that does not present any disease as defined in the medical sense of the term. The hydrogel is particularly suitable for healthy skin, which may be dull, dry, or wrinkled, and whose properties may have been degraded due to age, particularly due to repeated friction, or exposure to wind, cold, hard water, seawater, or heat.
[0054] Furthermore, hydrogel does not produce a therapeutic effect when formulated in a hygiene product. It contributes to the normal biological functioning of the oral and nasal mucous membranes of a healthy individual.
[0055] For the purposes of this invention, an increase in the skin's cell repair process does not allow for the treatment or prevention of diseases such as, for example, psoriasis, lichen planus, scabies, or Darier's disease. A reduction in skin redness does not allow for the treatment or prevention of diseases such as, for example, rosacea, dermatomyositis, or erythrosis. An increase in protection against microbial aggression does not allow for the treatment or prevention of diseases such as, for example, erysipelas, necrotizing skin infection, or staphylococcal cellulitis. An increase in hair growth does not allow for the treatment or prevention of diseases such as, for example, dermatosis, keratosis pilaris, tinea capitis, or alopecia areata. An agent that reduces spots due to prolonged sun exposure does not allow for the treatment or prevention of diseases such as, for example, skin cancer.For the purposes of the invention, "prolonged sun exposure" means a period of exposure to the sun sufficient to lead to the appearance of spots on the skin.
[0056] According to the invention, age spots appear naturally with age and are amplified by UV exposure. These spots correspond to hyperpigmented areas of skin, either flat or raised. They can be found on the skin, mucous membranes, and / or semi-mucous membranes.
[0057] The non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of hydrogel translates into an aesthetic and / or sensory effect, such as increased skin elasticity, firmness, surface volume, suppleness, and / or softness. The cosmetic effect may also include making the skin appear or feel smoother, reducing tightness, improving comfort, increasing hair growth, enhancing hair pigmentation, increasing hair density, and / or evening out skin tone.
[0058] The improvement in skin properties provided by the hydrogel can be demonstrated by any method known to a person skilled in the art.
[0059] A third object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin or hair care comprising the hydrogel described above, which is combined with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, surfactant, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colorant, texturizing agent, foaming agent, sweetener, flavoring, and cosmetic active ingredient. A single cosmetic ingredient may have one or more functions. A cosmetic ingredient is an ingredient whose use is authorized in cosmetics; it may be listed in the INCI directory.
[0060] A variant of this third item relates to a personal hygiene product intended for skin care or oral care.
[0061] The term "skin" refers to any external surface of the body, including the skin of the face, as well as the scalp, mucous membranes, and semi-mucous membranes. Therefore, "topical application" refers to any application to the skin, particularly the face, hands, neck, around the lips and around the eyes; to the lips; to the scalp; to the arms, feet, or legs. It may also be applied to the nasal mucous membranes, the oral mucosa including the gums and the inside of the cheeks, and around the lips. The term "hair" in this description includes eyelashes and eyebrows.
[0062] The duration of topical application of the hydrogel or cosmetic composition can be limited, for example, from 15 to 90 minutes, from 25 to 70 minutes, and preferably from 30 to 60 minutes, particularly in the case of a mask. The application time extends from the moment the product is applied to the skin until its removal, for example, by cleansing or wiping the skin.
[0063] The active ingredients that can be included in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cosmetic agents and not therapeutic agents.
[0064] A "non-therapeutic agent" within the meaning of the invention is an agent that does not allow the treatment or prevention of a skin disease, even if the agent has an activating effect on one of its biological functions.
[0065] A cosmetic ingredient with an active ingredient function can be selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, an anti-aging agent, an anti-itch soothing agent, a sunburn soothing agent, an anti-redness agent, an agent stimulating hair growth, a skin firming agent, a skin brightening agent and an agent for reducing spots due to prolonged sun exposure and / or due to aging, such as age spots.
[0066] For the purposes of this invention, an anti-itch agent cannot treat or prevent diseases such as eczema, urticaria, or psoriasis. A sunburn soother cannot treat or prevent conditions such as, for example, the repair of damaged DNA or the prevention of DNA damage. An anti-redness agent cannot treat or prevent inflammatory conditions such as rosacea, erythrosis, or dermatomyositis. A hair growth stimulant cannot treat or prevent conditions such as dermatosis, keratosis pilaris, tinea capitis, or alopecia areata. An agent that reduces spots caused by prolonged sun exposure cannot treat or prevent diseases such as, for example, skin cancer.For the purposes of the invention, "prolonged sun exposure" means a period of exposure to the sun sufficient to lead to the appearance of spots on the skin.
[0067] The hydrogel of the invention can advantageously be used for the formulation of after-shave or pre-shave skin care products, to limit redness, irritation and itching caused by shaving.
[0068] The hydrogel of the invention and the cosmetic composition of the invention also provide highly beneficial effects on hair fibers. It advantageously reduces the number of gray hairs, increases hair density, and repigments existing gray hairs. More specifically, it promotes the regeneration and rejuvenation of the hair bulb by acting on several levels. It increases cell proliferation at the bulb level, modulates the production of the growth factor VEGF, thus allowing for improved vascularization and differentiation, supports or even lengthens telomere length, and improves telomerase activity. The cells of the hair bulb develop more, which strengthens the hair root, improves hair health, increases vascularization, and ensures proper functioning of the hair follicle. The hydrogel of the invention promotes the differentiation of hair bulb cells and allows follicles to regain their optimal functionality. Therefore, the hydrogel of the invention, as part of the cosmetic composition of the invention, contributes to slowing down the aging of the hair follicle, and even to overall rejuvenation. It restarts cell synthesis, restores pigmentation capacity, and stimulates regrowth, while slowing down the signs of aging. The invention thus finds application in the management of hair aging and hair loss. The hydrogel of the invention also provides a protective action for hair exposed to stress. It offers a smoothing and protective effect and forms an effective film that acts as a shield against damage, particularly that experienced during... washes. The hydrogel of the invention also preserves the hair fiber: the cuticles retain their integrity better and are less prone to breakage and lifting. Finally, the hydrogel of the invention improves the appearance of the hair: the fibers are smoother, with less visible cuticles. The hydrogel of the invention can therefore be used as a pre-shampoo treatment. In another application of the invention, the hydrogel and cosmetic composition of the invention can be used to improve oral health. For example, the hydrogel can be incorporated into toothpaste, lotion, and mouthwash formulations. The hydrogel advantageously cleanses and repairs tissues such as the gums and the inside of the cheeks. It also reduces bad breath, heals mouth wounds, stabilizes the microbial load, limits plaque buildup, and helps prevent gum recession. An example of a toothpaste formulation contains a foaming agent such as glycyrrhizic acid or a plant extract containing it, such as licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza). Toothpaste can have the consistency of a paste, gel, powder, lozenges, or liquid. It may contain an abrasive agent such as calcium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or hydrated silica.It may also include a fragrance, similar to the compositions described above. Finally, a further application of the hydrogel illustrated in this application relates to its use as a deodorant or as an ingredient in the formulation of body deodorant products. The deodorant may be in the form of an emulsion, a gel, a stick, a roll-on, a spray, or a soap. An example of a deodorant composition according to the invention contains a hydrophilic solvent, water, a gelling agent, a fragrance, a colorant, a chelating agent, and the hydrogel of the invention described above. The chelating agent is, for example, citric acid, sodium phytate, or delta-gluconolactone. A deodorant cream may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and contain at least one fatty alcohol. The deodorant composition of the invention is advantageously free of a preservative or antimicrobial agent.
[0069] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, kojic acid, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, feluric acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, ellagic acid, tranexamic acid, phytic acid, tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol, retinol, hexylresorcinol, peptides, ceramides, collagen peptides, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), trace elements, alpha-arbutin and alpha-bisabolol, and their derivatives.
[0070] In some embodiments, the solvents may be chosen from water, alcohols (such as ethanol or glycols), and oils. The oils may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils such as polyisobutenes, and silicone oils, with vegetable oils being preferred. Among the vegetable oils, we can mention sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, shea oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil and borage oil.
[0071] Emulsifying ingredients can be chosen from lecithins, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan olivate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and their derivatives. We prefer to use natural or naturally derived emulsifying ingredients such as lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, amino acid derivatives, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, inulin lauryl carbamate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, sorbitan olivate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sucrose and fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.
[0072] The fragrances that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from plant extracts such as flower extracts, fruit extracts, wood extracts, root extracts, resins, and their derivatives. However, synthetic fragrances may also be chosen. Examples of fragrances are selected from the group consisting of ambroxan, hedione, galaxolide, benzyl salicylate, coumarin, ionones, methyl dihydroxyjasmonate, and cashmeran.
[0073] The cosmetic composition may also include one or more thickeners or texturizing agents, which are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible gelling agents, such as native polysaccharides or polysaccharides modified by alkyl radicals, possibly hydroxylated. Thickeners or texturizing agents may be chosen from among vegetable gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic, locust bean gum, scleroglucan gums, cellulose gum, tara gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, and konjac gum. Other examples include natural starches, alginates, carrageenan, natural waxes, seaweed extracts, pectin, linseed meal, and tapioca starch.Other examples include fructans, glucans, galactans, mannans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulans, dextran, celluloses, hemicellulose, methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, galactomannans, pullulans, inulins, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans and arabinogalactans.
[0074] The composition may also include synthetic thickeners and texturizing agents such as silicones and polyquaterniums, although it is preferable to use thickeners and texturizing agents with a naturalness index close to 1, or equal to 1.
[0075] The film-forming ingredients that can be used are similarly preferably natural or of natural origin, although synthetic polymers such as silicone polymers, polyurethanes, polyquaterniums and polyacrylates can also be incorporated.Among the ingredients likely to give film-forming properties to the deposit of cosmetic composition on the skin, we can mention Aloe vera gel, glycerin (which is then added to the hydrogel already containing natural glycerin), vegetable butters such as shea butter, and vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax Campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice bran wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, sunflower seed wax.
[0076] Examples of humectant ingredients that can be added to hydrogel to prepare cosmetic compositions include glycols, polyacrylamide, plant-derived hyaluronic acid, honey, aloe vera, natural amino acids such as sodium PCA, and their derivatives. Some humectants can also fulfill the function of the active ingredient mentioned above.
[0077] The cosmetic composition may also include natural or synthetic coloring materials in the form of dyes, lacquers or pigments, among which are azo dyes, fluorescent dyes, colored plant extracts such as beetroot, carrot, turmeric, rose and saffron extracts, cyanobacteria extracts, natural iron oxides, micas, zinc oxide, anthocyanins, chlorophyll, Blue 1 Lake, Red 21 Lake, Blue 15 Lake, carmine, Red 30 Lake, aluminum powder and titanium dioxide, with natural coloring materials being preferred. Among the aromas suitable for formulation in the cosmetic composition or in the hygiene product of the invention, we can mention peppermint, apricot, raspberry, fennel, clove, blackcurrant, orange, grape, watermelon, lemon, mango, ginger, strawberry and cinnamon.
[0078] Examples of natural sweeteners that can be included in the cosmetic composition of the invention include, for example, mogroside, stevioside, sucrose, maltose and lactose.
[0079] The cosmetic composition may also include at least one ingredient whose INCI name is chosen from the group consisting of ACETYL TRIBUTYL CITRATE, SUCROSE LAURATE, SUCROSE COCOATE, ARACHIS HYPOGAEA OIL, ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED OIL, BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS SEED OIL, BUTYL ACETATE, BUTYL STEARATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL COCOATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE, BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, C10-40 ISOALKYL ACID TRIGLYCERIDES, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, C13-15 ALKANE, C18-36 ACID GLYCOL ESTER, C20-40 ALKYL STEARATE, C8-C12 ACID TRIGLYCERIDE, C9-12 ALKANE, CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLLUM SEED OIL, CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL, CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL, CANOLA, CAPRIC / CAPRYLIC TRIGLYCERIN DE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CARAPA GUAIANENSIS SEED OIL, CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS SEED OIL, CASTOR ISOSTEARATE BEESWAX SUCCINATE, CASTOR ISOSTEARATE SUCCINATE, CELLULOSE ACETATE BUTYRATE, CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, CETEARYL ISONONANOATE, CETEARYL WHEAT BRAN GLYCOSIDES, CETYL LAURATE, CETYL PALMITATE, CETYL RICINOLEATE, CETYL STEARATE, CITRONELLYL METHYLCROTONATE, COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, COCOGLYCERIDES, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL, COFFEA ARABICA SEED OIL, CORYLUS AVELLANA SEED OIL, DAUCUS CAROTA SATIVA SEED OIL, DECYL COCOATE, DEXTRIN PALMITATE, DIBUTYL ADIPATE, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, DIETHYL PHTHALATE, DIETHYL SUCCINATE, DIETHYLHEXYL CARBONATE, DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE, DIISOPROPYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE, DIISOSTEARYL MALATE,DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER, DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, DIOCTYL ADIPATE, DIPENTAERYTHRITYL, H EXAHYDROXYSTEARATE / H EXASTEARATE / H EXAROSINATE, DIPENTAERYTH RITYL TETRAHYDROXYSTEARATE / TETRAISOSTEARATE, DIPENTAERYTHRITYL TRIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL DIBENZOATE, DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, DISTEARYL PHTALATE, ELAEIS GUINEENSIS OIL, ETHYL ACETATE, ETHYL CANOLATE, ETHYL LACTATE, ETHYL LINOLEATE, ETHYL OLEATE, ETHYLHEXYL CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, ETHYLHEXYL COCOATE, ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, ETHYLHEXYL POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE, ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE, EUPHORBIA CERIFERA, FARNESOL, GARCINIA INDICA SEED BUTTER, GLYCEROL TRIACETATE, GLYCERYL BEHENATE / EICOSADIOATE, GLYCERYL COCOATE / CITRATE / LACTATE, GLYCERYL DILAURATE, GLYCERYL RICINOLEATE, GLYCERYL TRIBEHENATE / ISOSTEARATE / EICOSAN DIOATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, GLYCOL PALMITATE, GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM SEED OIL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, HEPTYL UNDECYLENATE, HEXYLDECANOL, HEXYLDECYL LAURATE, HEXYLDECYL STEARATE, HYDROGENATED APRICOT KERNEL OIL, HYDROGENATED CASTOIR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE,HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, HYDROGENATED COCONUT ACID, HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL, HYDROGENATED COTTONSEED OIL, HYDROGENATED ETHYLHEXYL OLIVATE, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES, HYDROGENATED MYRISTYL OLIVE ESTERS, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS, HYDROGENATED PALM / PALM KERNEL GLYCERIDES, HYDROXYSTEARIC / LINOLENIC / OLEIC POLYGLYCERIDES, ISOAMYL LAURATE, ISOCETYL STEARATE, ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE, ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, ISODODECANE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE, ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE, ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE, ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE, ISOSTEARYL PCA, ISOTRIDECYL, ISONONANOATE, JUGLANS REGIA SEED OIL, , LAURYL / MYRISTYL POLYRICINOLEATE, LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (AND) STEARYL CITRATE, LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL, LINUM USITATISSIMUM OIL, LUPINUS ALBUS SEED OIL, MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED OIL, MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL, MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER, MANGIFERA INDICA SEED OIL, MAURITIA FLEXUOSA FRUIT OIL, MENTHYL LACTATE, METHYL GLUCOSE CAPRATE / CAPRYLATE / OLEATE, METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE, METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE, METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSS POLYMER, METHYL SALICYLATE, MORINGA DROUHARDII SEED OIL, MYRISTYL LACTATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIETHYL HEXANOATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIHEPTANOATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIPELARGONATE, OCTYLDODECYL LACTATE, OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE, OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL, OENOTHERA BIENNIS SEED EXTRACT, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL, OLEIC / LINOLEIC / LINOLENIC POLYGLYCERIDES, OLEYL ALCOHOL, OLEYL ERUCATE, OPUNTIA FICUS INDICA SEED OIL,ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA SEED OIL, ORYZA SATIVA BRAN OIL, ORYZA SATIVA GERM OIL, PASSIFLORA EDULIS SEED OIL, PCA GLYCERYL OLEATE, PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL DISTEARATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL STEARATE / CAPRATE / CAPRYLATE / ADIPATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRABEHENATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRACAPRYLATE / TETRACAPRATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE, PERILLA OCYMOIDES OIL, PERSEA GRATISSIMA OIL, PISTACIA VERA SEED OIL, POLYGLYCERYL-3 STEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-IO BEHENATE / EICOSADIOATE, POLYGLYCERYL-IO OLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-IO TRISTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL- 2 DIISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL- 2 OLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL- 2 TETRAISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-2-ISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE, JOJOBA ESTERS, POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX, CETYL ALCOHOL, POLYGLYCERYL- 2 TRIISOSTEARATE, PROPYL ACETATE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE,DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE, PROPYLHEPTYL CAPRYLATE, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL, PRUNUS ARMENIACA, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL, PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL, PRUNUS AVIUM SEED OIL, PRUNUS DOMESTICA SEED EXTRACT, PRUNUS PERSICA KERNEL OIL, PYRUS MALUS SEED OIL, RETINYL PALMITATE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, RHUS VERNICIFLUA PEEL WAX, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, ROSA CANINA FRUIT OIL, ROSA RUBIGINOSA SEED OIL, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT, SAFFLOWER SEED OIL, SCLEROCARYA BIRREA OIL, SESAMUM INDICUM SEED OIL, SHOREA STENOPTERA SEED BUTTER, SILYBUM MARIANUM ETHYL ESTER, SILYBUM MARIANUM SEED OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL, SODIUM CAPROYL LACTYLATE, LAUROYL LACTYLATE, SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, SORBITAN, CAPRYLATE, SORBITAN OLIVATE, SORBITAN TRISTEARATE, SQUALANE, STEARYL BEHENATE, STEARYL GLYCYRRH ETINATE, STEARYL PALMITATE, STEARYL STEARATE, SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE, SUCROSE DISTEARATE, SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE, SUCROSE STEARATE, SUCROSE STEARATE, SUCROSE DISTEARATE, SUCROSE TETRASTEARATE TRIACETATE, SUCROSE TRISTEARATE, SUNFLOWER SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED SUNFLOWER SEED OIL ESTERS, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRACOCOATE , THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER, THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM SEED BUTTER, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, TRI-C12-13 ALKYL CITRATE, TRI-C14-15 ALKYL CITRATE, TRICAPRYLIN, UNDECANE, TRIDECANE, TRIDECYL SALICYLATE, TRIDECYL STEARATE, TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE, DIPENTAERYTHRITYL HEXACAPRYLATE / H EXACAPRATE, TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE, TRIETHYL CITRATE, TRIETHYLENE GLYCOL ROSINATE, TRIETHYLHEXANOIN, TRIETHYLHEXYL TRIMELLITATE, TRIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL- 3 DIMER DILINOLEATE, TRIISOSTEARYL CITRATE, TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE, TRIMYRISTIN, TRIOCTYLDODECYL CITRATE, TRIPALMITIN, TRISTEARIN,TRITICUM VULGARE GERM OIL, VANILLA PLANIFOLIA FRUIT EXTRACT, VATERIA INDICA SEED BUTTER, VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL, XIMENIA PERRIERI SEED OIL, ZEA MAYS GERM OIL.,
[0080] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains from 1% to 25% by mass, preferably from 10% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably from 12% to 17% by mass of the hydrogel relative to the mass of the cosmetic composition. The hydrogel is advantageously present in a sufficient quantity to ensure the activation of the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.
[0081] The percentages of the hydrogel ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition can be defined as follows. These are percentages by mass relative to the mass of the cosmetic composition: 4% to 12% natural glycerin, 0.2% to 2% natural caprylyl glycol, 1% to 4% of a mixture consisting of propanediol and sorbitol, and 0.5% to 1.5% dimethyl isorbide. An example of a cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 4% to 12% natural glycerin, 0.2% to 2% natural caprylyl glycol, 1% to 3% propanediol, 0.1% to 0.5% sorbitol, and 0.5% to 1.5% dimethyl isorbide.
[0082] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be characterized by a natural or naturally derived content, which is advantageously greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%, the natural or naturally derived content being defined as above.
[0083] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains from 0.01% to 5% of an active ingredient, from 5% to 15% of hydrogel and from 80% to 90% of water, the mass percentages being expressed in relation to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0084] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may take the form of a gel, cream, lotion, milk, ointment, deodorant, or serum. The composition may be a skincare product, a makeup product, or a hygiene product.
[0085] It can be an emulsion of an aqueous phase comprising the hydrogel and another aqueous phase. It can also be an emulsion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase, the aqueous phase containing the hydrogel, or an emulsion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising the hydrogel.
[0086] The hydrogel and / or cosmetic composition of the invention may be transparent, and this transparency can be observed by any method known to those skilled in the art. It is characterized by the passage of light through a container holding the hydrogel, or through the container of the composition used to prepare the product intended for sale. Those skilled in the art will know how to choose the appropriate container to observe the transparency of the hydrogel or the composition. The transparent and homogeneous nature can also be observed with the naked eye by spreading the product on the skin or by placing a small amount of the product on an opaque, colored background.
[0087] The cosmetic composition can be packaged in a container, such as a tube, a jar or a dosing bottle.
[0088] A fourth object of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing the cosmetic composition described above, said method comprising a step of preparing the hydrogel, and a step of mixing the hydrogel with the cosmetic ingredient as described above.
[0089] In some embodiments, the hydrogel preparation step includes: a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, followed by a step of adding natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and possibly a base to the previous mixture.
[0090] The step of mixing glycerin, carbomer, and water may include a first step in which the glycerin is mixed with a portion of the water to obtain solution A, the amount of water preferably being chosen so that the water / glycerin mass ratio is between 1:1 and 3:1. The step of mixing glycerin, water, and carbomer may include a second step in which solution A is mixed with the carbomer to obtain solution B. This mixing is carried out by dispersing the carbomer under stirring at room temperature in solution A. A third step consists of adding the natural polyol and caprylyl glycol to solution B to obtain solution C. In a fourth step, a base such as sodium hydroxide is added.
[0091] Several implementation methods are also illustrated as follows. 1. Hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition essentially consisting of: - 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; - 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; - 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, other than glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms; and - water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel. 2. Hydrogel according to embodiment 1, characterized in that it comprises from 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols including natural propanediol and natural sorbitol. 3. Hydrogel according to embodiments 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 7% of dimethyl isosorbide. 4. Hydrogel according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, characterized in that its natural or naturally derived content is greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%. 5. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrogel, the hydrogel conforming to one of embodiments 1 to 4, to produce at least one non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the proper biological functioning of healthy skin. 6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrogel according to the preceding embodiment, characterized in that the activation effect is chosen from the group consisting of an increase in the production of collagen and elastin by the skin, an increase in the skin hydration rate, a reduction in skin redness, an increase in protection against microbial aggressions, an increase in hair growth and a reduction in age spots. 7. Cosmetic skin care composition for topical application comprising a hydrogel, the hydrogel conforming to one of embodiments 1 to 4 and being associated with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colouring matter, texturizing agent, and active ingredient. 8. A cosmetic skincare composition according to the preceding embodiment, characterized in that the cosmetic ingredient having an active principle function is selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, an anti-aging agent, an anti-itch soothing agent, a sunburn soothing agent, an anti-redness agent, a hair growth stimulating agent, a skin firming agent, a skin brightening agent and an agent for reducing spots due to prolonged sun exposure and / or due to aging, such as age spots. 9. Cosmetic skin care composition according to embodiments 7 or 8, characterized in that it contains 10% to 20% by mass, preferably 12% to 17% by mass, of hydrogel. 10. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition conforming to one of embodiments 7 to 9, characterized in that it comprises a step of preparing the hydrogel, and a step of mixing the hydrogel with the cosmetic ingredient. 11. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrogel preparation step comprises: a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, - followed by a step of adding to the previous mixture natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and possibly a base.
[0092] The invention is illustrated by the following embodiments. The temperature is 20-25°C unless otherwise stated. Example 1: Hydrogels according to the invention Hydrogels were prepared, the composition of which is detailed in Table 1. Vegetable glycerin and a portion of the purified water were mixed, and then the carbomer was dispersed by stirring at room temperature. The other compounds were then added in the proportions shown in Table 1. [Table 1] Hydrogels according to the invention Example 2: In vitro evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the modulation of Procollagen C-Proteinase Enhancer-1 (PCPE-1) A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Study conditions Human fibroblasts are exposed to the p5 passage of the positive control TGF-pi (10 ng / pL) and to the gel of the invention at a concentration of 0.30%. After 72 hours of incubation at 37°C + 5% CO2, the culture media are collected and stored at -20°C until the PCPE-1 ELISA test is performed. 2. Results Under the study conditions, PCPE-1 production in the presence of TGF-01 (10 ng / pL) was 21666.8 pg / mL. It was 22478.8 pg / mL with the gel of the invention, representing a 3.75% increase compared to the TGF-01 positive control. Example 3: Clinical evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the anti-aging effect of the gel on the skin A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. The objective of the trial was to define the direct influence of the gel on the biomechanical parameters of the skin (skin firmness and elasticity), the volume of the skin surface (skin filling surface) and the skin lightening properties (reduction of melanin content). 1. Methodology An instrumental study was conducted on 22 male and female subjects aged 40 to 55 years with wrinkled skin and age spots on their hands. Measurements were taken at the application site—before product application (J0) and after 56 days (J56) of regular use. The study was conducted in an air-conditioned room at a temperature of 20 ± 2°C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%. On clean skin, the product was spread and then allowed to absorb in a thin layer without massaging. The product was applied twice a day. The results were statistically analyzed using STATISTICA 13. The paired-samples t-test or the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (depending on the result of the previously applied normality test) was used to assess differences from the previous measurement. The significance level was set at p < 0.05. 2. Skin firmness and elasticity Mechanical tests were performed using a Cutometer® MPA 580 to measure the effect of the invention's composition on skin firmness and elasticity. The results are presented in Table 2. [Table 2] - Results of the effect of the gel on skin elasticity and firmness A significant improvement in skin elasticity and firmness is observed. 3. Anti-wrinkle properties of facial skin Biometric tests of skin relief were conducted using a Visioscan® VC 20plus to measure skin surface volume. The results are presented in Table 3. [Table 3] - Results of the effect of the gel on skin texture The product of the invention significantly smooths the skin's texture. 4. Skin-lightening properties of the hands The evaluation was performed using an Antera 3D® device by measuring - The intensity of skin color, - the number of age spots, and - the intensity of the 3 most colored age spots. A photograph of the skin surface of each panel subject's hands, focusing on a specific area, was taken at day 0 (J0) and again at day 56 (J56) under the same conditions. The two photographs taken of the first panel subject are shown in Figure 5: the photograph on the left was taken at J0, and the one on the right was taken at J56. Analysis of all images taken from the panel was performed using Perplexity AI. The results are presented in Tables 4 and 5. [Table 4] - Results of the effect of the gel on skin color [Table 5] - Results of the effect of the gel on the color of age spots Conclusion: The composition of the invention reduces the overall melanin content of the skin by an average of 9% through a significant overall brightening effect. By selecting three age spots on each image, an average reduction in the intensity of the spots of 43% was observed. Finally, we observed an average reduction of 72.05% in colored pixels between J0 and J56, which can be translated into a reduction in the number of age spots. Example 4: In vivo evaluation of the anti-aging properties of a cosmetic gel composition according to the invention A cosmetic composition comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. Methodology: An evaluation of the cosmetic qualities of the composition was carried out on a panel of 20 people who applied and evaluated the product, assigning a score between 0 and 3 points for each of the expected effects: - firming of the skin on the lower face, - firming of the skin on the neck, - visibly younger face. Each person applied the composition, once a day, for 42 days, to the face and neck in a thick layer on gauze, for 40 minutes. A score of 2 or 3 points was translated as a "YES", while a score of 0 or 1 point counted as a "NO". Results : The results are shown in Table 6. [Table 6] - Anti-aging properties of a cosmetic composition of the invention Example 5: In vitro evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the proliferation of hair bulb cells The objective of this study is to evaluate the viability / proliferation of follicular dermal papilla cells (Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells, DPC) and root bulbs in the anagen phase via an evaluation of metabolic activity. A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Method This study implements the cell culture of DPCs in the presence of hair bulbs before an evaluation of metabolic activity via a 3-[4,5-d imethylthiazol-2-yl]- 2,5- diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test. The MTT kit measures the ability of metabolically active cells to cleave yellow tetrazolium salts to form purple formazan crystals. The solubilization of these formazan crystals produces a colored solution whose intensity is measured spectrophotometrically. The amount of formazan crystals formed is directly proportional to the number of metabolically active cells. For this study, cells from the dermal follicular papilla are placed in contact with white hair bulbs in the anagen phase, and the mixture is exposed to the control, positive control, and gel of the invention at a concentration of 0.10%. After 72 hours of incubation at 37°C + 5% CO2, the MTT test is conducted according to the supplier's instructions. In this study, each control and sample is tested in triplicate. 2. Results The cell viability / proliferation results are shown in Table 7. [Table 7] - Cell viability / proliferation results Under experimental conditions, the viability / proliferation of DPCs with root bulbs in the presence of the invention's gel increased by +22.29% compared to the control. Conclusion: The composition of the invention has the ability to induce the production of new cells at the level of the root bulbs in 72 hours, which contributes to the development of the root bulbs. Example 6: In vitro evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the production of vascular endothelium growth factor in the root bulb The objective of this study is to evaluate the modulation of the production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by follicle dermal papilla cells (DPC) in the presence of root bulbs in anagen phase via an immunoenzymatic assay, by action of the gel of the invention. A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Method VEGF is the biomarker used in this study to evaluate the effect of the invention's composition on the proliferation and / or vascularization of DPCs and the growth of hair bulbs. The level of VEGF produced by DPCs varies according to the phase of the hair cycle, with higher expression during the anagen phase. The Enzo VEGF (human) ELISA kit was used and the intensity of the color, which is directly proportional to the concentration of VEGF in the sample, was measured at 450nm. Follicular dermal papilla cells are incubated with anagen-phase bulbs, and the entire system is exposed to the control, the Minoxidil® control (100M), and the gel of the invention at a concentration of 0.10%. After 72 hours of incubation at 37°C + 5% CO2, the culture media are harvested and stored at -20°C until the test is performed. In this study, each control and sample is tested in triplicate. 2. Results The results are presented in the diagram in Figure 6. Under the study conditions, the baseline VEGF production was 2773.50 pg / mL, and the production in the presence of the therapeutic molecule (Minoxidil®, 100mL) was 2098.60 pg / mL, representing a decrease of 24.33%. Under the experimental conditions, the VEGF production by the DPCs induced by the composition of the invention was 4515.66 pg / mL, an increase of 62.81% compared to the baseline control. Conclusion : The composition of the invention increases the synthesis of the VEGF growth factor by more than 62.8% in root bulbs. This growth factor is key in the root bulb differentiation process; it not only restores all the functionalities of the root bulbs but also optimizes their performance. Example 7: In vitro evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the modulation of telomere length in hair bulbs The aim of this study is to evaluate the modulation of telomere length by follicle dermal papilla cells (DPCs) in the presence of anagen-phase root bulbs via real-time amplification of the telomere nucleotide (DNA) sequence (qPCR). Telomeres are repetitive nucleotide segments located at the ends of chromosomes that protect them from degradation and loss of genetic information. During each cell cycle, during DNA replication, normal diploid cells lose nucleotides at the telomeres, and their length therefore decreases over time. When telomeres become too short, the cell stops dividing and enters senescence. This phenomenon contributes to the aging process. A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Method The ScienCell Relative Human Telomere Length Quantification qPCR Assay kit allows for the comparison of the relative telomere lengths of a sample against a baseline control. This kit amplifies two types of sequences: the single-copy reference primer (SCR), which recognizes and amplifies 100 base pairs on human chromosome 17 and is used to normalize the results, and the telomere primer (TELO), which recognizes and amplifies the telomere sequence. A fluorescent reporter that binds to double-stranded DNA is required and emits a signal proportional to the amount of DNA amplified. The resulting Quantification Cycle Value (Cq) corresponds to the cycle at which a true amplification signal is detected, i.e., when the signal becomes stronger than the background noise. The comparative calculation method AACq then determines the relative length of a sample against a baseline control. For this study, cells from the follicular dermal papilla are placed in contact with root bulbs in the anagen phase, and the entire system is exposed to the baseline control, the Minoxidil® (100M) control, and the gel of the invention at a concentration of 1.00%. After 72 hours of incubation at 37°C + 5% CO2, the cell pellets are harvested and stored at -80°C until DNA extraction and qPCR analysis are performed. In this study, each control and sample is tested in triplicate. 2. Results The results are presented in the diagram in Figure 7. Under experimental conditions, the therapeutic molecule (Minoxidil®, 100M) produces telomeres 1.17 times longer than under basal conditions, representing a 117% increase in reconstructed telomere length. The conformity of the positive control is validated. Tl Thanks to the freezing of the invention, the reconstructed telomere length is 2.67 times greater than the basal control. Conclusion The composition of the invention allows for cellular renewal of root bulbs through its capacity to lengthen telomeres (reconstruction after mitosis) inducing a slowing of telomere shortening, and a slowing of cellular aging. Example 8: In vitro evaluation of a cosmetic composition of the invention on the production of telomerase by cells of the follicular dermal papilla The objective of this study is to evaluate the conservation of genetic material by the modulation of telomerase production by follicular dermal papilla cells (DPC) in the presence of root bulbs in anagen phase via an immunoenzymatic assay. A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Method Human telomerase (TE) is a TRNA-dependent DNA polymerase responsible for synthesizing telomeric DNA, which consists of a protein component and an RNA component. This enzyme protects telomeres, the protective ends of chromosomes, during cell division, thereby preserving genetic material and limiting cellular senescence. Telomerase is found primarily in stem cells, but not exclusively, and its production can be measured in various cell extracts. For this study, the Human Telomerase ELISA kit provides a convenient test for measuring telomerase and assessing the protection of genetic material in skin cells. This kit uses monoclonal antibodies specific to human telomerase. The interaction between human telomerase and the antibodies is detected by adding a substrate that produces a color. The color intensity, measured spectrophotometrically at 450 nmet, is proportional to the concentration of human telomerase. A calibration curve is used to determine the concentration of human telomerase in the samples. For this study, cells from the follicular dermal papilla are placed in the presence of anagen-phase bulbs, and the entire system is exposed to the control, the Minoxidil® control (100M), and the invention's 1.00% gel. After 72 hours of incubation at 37°C + 5% CO2, the cultures are centrifuged, the culture media are discarded, and the cell pellets are stored at -20°C until the Telomerase ELISA test is performed according to the manufacturer's instructions. In this study, each control and sample is tested in triplicate. 2. Results Under the study conditions, the baseline telomerase production was 0.204 ng / mL, and in the presence of the therapeutic molecule (Minoxidil®, 100 nM), it was 0.167 ng / mL, representing a decrease of 18.4%. A modulation of telomerase production was clearly observed in the presence of the therapeutic molecule, Minoxidil® 100 nM. Telomerase production by DPCs in the presence of root bulbs and the 1.00% gel of the invention is 0.006 ng / mL, representing a decrease of 97.25% compared to the baseline control. Conclusion The cellular rejuvenation induced by the composition of the invention does not result from telomerase overexpression, as the telomerase assay shows no increase in the basal level of this enzyme. Therefore, the composition of the invention is capable of slowing telomere shortening solely by increasing the quality and / or performance of telomerase. Example 9: Clinical study of the protective effect of the gel on the hair fiber The aim is to evaluate the protective effect of the gel of the invention on hair fibers subjected to stress conditions. The fibers were observed by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) at four different magnifications: 200, 1000, 5000 and 10000. A cosmetic composition in the form of a gel comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. 1. Experimental Protocol Hair from donor 1 (a 36-year-old man) and hair from donor 2 (a 41-year-old woman) are collected independently and separated into two batches: - Batch 1 and its control batch 1, for donor 1 - Batch 2 and its control batch 2, for donor 2. We carry out a first observation of the hair surface by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) of each of the 4 batches. The fibers from Lot 1 and Lot 2 are treated for 5 minutes with the gel. After this first treatment, the surface of the hair is directly observed by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The fibers from control Lot 1 and control Lot 2 are subjected to stress by being immersed for 5 minutes in a 7% aqueous solution of sodium coco sulfate at pH 11, rubbed, and then rinsed with water, in order to measure the normal level of degradation. A further SEM observation is performed to evaluate the impact of stress on hair not treated with the composition of the invention. The fibers from Lots 1 and 2 that were treated with the gel are subjected to the stress described above. A new SEM observation is then performed to evaluate the impact of the stress on the hair previously treated with the composition of the invention. 2. Observations The SEM images taken on the hair of the control Lot 1 and the stressed control Lot 1 are reproduced in Figure 1. Donor 1 delivers brown colored hair that is smooth and not very damaged, the tips of the scales are visible, only the outline appears dry (light color). On donor 1, the surfactant stress exerted on untreated hair provides a cleansing effect (elimination of keratin debris) which is accompanied by breakage on the scales, the surface of the scales is globally amputated. The SEM images taken on the hair from Lot 1 treated and from Lot 1 treated then stressed are reproduced in Figure 2. The "Hairsoft" treatment on donor hair 1 provides a smoothing effect, as the scales are delimited by a thinner border; the treatment also provides a film on the surface of the hair, the scales are coated by a visible film which reduces the relief of the scales as well as their demarcation. After treatment, the gel provides a protective film. It is this gel film that is attacked by the stress exerted, which preserves the integrity of the scales; the scales break less, or very little. The SEM images taken on the hair of the control Lot 2 and the stressed control Lot 2 are reproduced in Figure 3. Donor 2 provides brown colored hair with a flaky appearance; the tips of the scales are dry and apparent / lifted, and some keratin debris is visible. On donor 2, surfactant stress causes the same effects as on donor 1. The SEM images taken on the hairs of Lot 2 treated and of Lot 2 treated then stressed are reproduced in Figure 4. Donor 2 provides brown colored hair with a flaky appearance; the tips of the scales are dry and apparent / lifted, and some keratin debris is visible. Treating donor hair 2 with the composition of the invention provides a smoothing effect, as the cuticles are less detached, the demarcation between the cuticles is less pronounced, and keratin debris is less visible and frequent. The treatment also creates a film on the hair surface; the cuticles are coated with a visible film that makes them more adhesive and less dry. After stress, less keratin cuticle detachment is observed on the donor hair 2 that has been previously treated. Conclusion : After applying the gel, a film forms on the surface of the hair fiber. The cuticles appear less prominent, giving the hair a smoother appearance. The gel forms a protective coating that shields the hair fiber. On fibers not protected by frost, sodium coco sulfate cleans the fiber by removing keratin debris, but it also causes scale breakage and cuticle detachment. The surface of the scales is damaged, showing significant alterations (breakage, loss of cuticle fragments). On treated fibers, stress primarily affects the protective film. The scales are significantly less damaged. This study demonstrates that the gel effectively smooths and protects the hair fiber through a film-forming coating effect, preserving the integrity of the cuticle even under conditions of chemical and mechanical stress. Example 10: Clinical study of the effects of the gel of the invention on hair density and hair pigmentation. The aim of the study was to determine the effect of the tested product on hair density and the number of gray hairs. The test was performed by counting. A cosmetic composition comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. Methodology: Twenty volunteers (men and women aged 45 to 65) were informed of the purpose of the study, its procedure, and potential side effects. The test was performed on healthy, unirritated skin. Volunteers were advised not to use antihistamines or any other medications that could affect the test results. Hair density and the number of gray hairs were measured before application of the preparation (J0), after 28 days (J28), and after 56 days (J56) of regular use of the product on the hair according to the application method. The hair on the left side of the head served as a control sample. The product was applied to the right side of the head. Each measurement was taken three times (to eliminate measurement errors). All measurements were taken in a room at a temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%. The density and number of grey hairs were measured over a 1 cm2 area. The results were averaged and presented in Tables 8 and 9. [Table 8] - Average number of white hairs in ° / o / cm2 Conclusion : After two months of using the product of the invention, a 12.3% reduction in gray hair was observed compared to the control group (highly significant according to the Student's t-test). 100% of the volunteers responded positively to the treatment. The hair follicle regained its ability to produce melanin (natural pigment), demonstrating a reversal of the graying process. The proportion of pigmented hairs increased thanks to the composition of the invention, which repigments initially gray hairs. [Table 9] - Average hair density in hairs / cm2 Conclusion : The average increase in hair density was 3.20% after 56 days of treatment compared to the control group. An increase in hair density compared to the control group was observed in more than 84% of volunteers. Hair loss was stopped, and new follicles appeared to develop, demonstrating an overall anti-hair loss and regrowth effect. Example 11: Evaluation of the sensory properties of the invention's device and comparison with the prior art The objective of this study is to compare a hydrogel of the invention and a cosmetic composition of the invention with respect to the prior art. 1. Composition of hydrogels The compositions of the two hydrogels are detailed in Table 10 below. They were prepared according to the process described above. The prior art hydrogel comprises a synthetic polyol, polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG-400), and replaces, on a weight-for-weight basis, the combination of propanediol, sorbitol, and dimethyl isosorbide. [Table 10] - Composition of a hydrogel according to the invention and of a hydrogel according to the prior art The naturalness index of each of the two hydrogels was calculated according to the ISO 16128 standard mentioned above. The osmolarity of the two hydrogels was measured using a conventional method. The values obtained are given in Table 11. [Table 11] - Properties of a hydrogel according to the invention and of a hydrogel according to the prior art 2. Sensory properties of the cosmetic composition A cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared. Evaluation protocols: The evaluation was conducted on a panel of five cosmetic product formulators. Each of the five individuals, gathered in the same room, performed the test simultaneously. They each applied a small amount of each gel, blindly, to the back of their hand, after washing their hands with the same cleansing product and drying them with absorbent paper of the same brand, both before and after evaluating the first gel. On clean skin, the product was spread and allowed to absorb in a thin layer without massaging. The participants then assigned a score for each item, according to the following scale: Evaluation of the stickiness: 1 / 4: very sticky; 2 / 4: sticky; 3 / 4: slightly sticky; 4 / 4: no stickiness at all. - Softness to the touch: 1 / 3: Not soft; 2 / 3: Neutral; 3 / 3: Very soft - Transparency: 1 / 3: opaque; 2 / 3: translucent; 3 / 3: transparent - Odor: 1 / 3: unpleasant odor; 2 / 3: no odor; 3 / 3: Odor; neutral, but pleasant. The sum of all the scores for each of the four items is reported in Table 12. The texture of the two gels was also observed by placing a small amount of the product on a red background with a lens, without magnification, at a distance of 10 cm. The images are shown in Figures 8 and 9. 3. Index of naturalness of the cosmetic composition: The naturalness index of each of the two cosmetic compositions was calculated following the ISO 16128 standard mentioned above. [Table 12] - Properties of a composition comprising the hydrogel according to the invention and of a cosmetic composition comprising a hydrogel according to the prior art Conclusion : Replacing the synthetic ingredient PEG 400 with a combination of sorbitol, propanediol, and dimethylisosorbide significantly increases the naturalness index of the hydrogel, and consequently, of the cosmetic composition. The hydrogel's naturalness index rises from 72% to 98%, while the cosmetic composition's naturalness index increases from 95.6% to 99.4%. This gain in naturalness does not come at the expense of the main properties of stimulating skin metabolism regarding osmolarity, the active protective properties on a microbiological level and the properties of stimulating blood microcirculation. The hydrogel of the invention also allows the viscosity and pH properties of the synthetic hydrogel to be retained. Moreover, the hydrogel of the invention provides an improved sensory experience: the cosmetic composition is softer, more transparent, without a final veil thanks to better dispersion, non-sticky and has no odor. Example 12: Cosmetic skincare compositions containing hydrogel Four cosmetic skincare products were prepared. A first composition, called the "basic composition", comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent and 84.8% water was prepared initially. An anti-aging serum with hydrating and anti-pollution properties is prepared by mixing 99.8% of the base formula with 0.2% hyaluronic acid. A skin cell repair cosmetic formula is prepared by mixing 99.0% of the base formula with 1% panthenol. A cosmetic composition intended to soothe itching is prepared by mixing 99.8% of the base composition, 0.1% vitamin E and 0.1% alpha-bisabolol. Finally, a cosmetic composition aimed at soothing sunburn is prepared by mixing 99.9% of the base composition, and 0.1% alpha-bisabolol.
Claims
Demands
1. Hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition essentially consisting of: - 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; - 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; - 10% to 20% of a mixture of natural propanediol and natural sorbitol; and - 5% to 7% dimethyl isosorbide, and - water. The percentages are expressed as a percentage of the mass of the hydrogel.
2. Hydrogel according to claim 1, characterized in that its natural or naturally sourced content is greater than or equal to a value selected from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%.
3. Use of a hydrogel according to any one of claims 1 or 2 for the cosmetic treatment of a condition having a function selected from an increase in the production of collagen and elastin by the skin, an increase in the rate of skin hydration, a decrease in skin redness, an increase in protection against microbial aggression, an increase in hair growth and a decrease in age spots.
4. Composition for cosmetic care or for body hygiene comprising 10% to 20% by mass of a hydrogel conforming to one of claims 1 to 3, and at least one natural cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, active ingredient, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colouring matter and texturizing agent.
5. Composition for cosmetic care or for body hygiene according to claim 4, characterized in that it contains 4% to 12% of natural glycerin, 0.2% to 2% of natural caprylyl glycol, 1% to 3% of propanediol, 0.1% to 0.5% of sorbitol, and 0.5% to 1.5% of dimethyl isorbide, the percentages being by mass relative to the mass of the composition.
6. A composition for cosmetic care or personal hygiene according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the cosmetic ingredient having an active ingredient function is selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, an anti-aging agent, an anti-itch soothing agent, a sunburn soothing agent, an anti-redness agent, a hair growth stimulating agent, a hair pigmentation increasing agent, a skin-firming agent, a skin-lightening agent, and an agent for reducing spots due to prolonged sun exposure and / or due to aging, such as age spots.
7. Composition for cosmetic skin care or for body hygiene according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that it contains from 12% to 17% by mass of hydrogel.
8. A composition for cosmetic skin care or personal hygiene according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that it is in the form of a toothpaste, a skin care cream, a hair lotion, a hair treatment, or a deodorant.
9. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a step of preparing the hydrogel and a step of mixing the hydrogel with the cosmetic ingredient.
10. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the step of preparing the hydrogel comprises: a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, followed by a step of adding sorbitol, propanediol, dimethyl isosorbide, and natural caprylyl glycol to the preceding mixture.
Citation Information
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