Composition comprising glycolipid, cationic polymer and (POLY)hydroxy acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid. The composition according to the present invention is stable, and can provide at least acceptable, and preferably good, feeling to use.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING

[0004] GLYCOLIPID, CATIONIC POLYMER AND (POLY)HYDROXY ACID

[0005] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0006] The present invention relates to a composition including glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, cationic polymer and (poly)hydroxy acid, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

[0007] BACKGROUND ART

[0008] Cleansing of the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, the residues of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin folds and can block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.

[0009] One way of satisfactorily cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products. The foaming cleansing products currently commercially available are in the form of foaming bars, gels or creams.

[0010] The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0011] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing composition, with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.

[0013] Biosurfactants such as glycolipids, in particular rhamno lipids, are materials of natural origin and are known to have unique bioactivities, such as anti-inflammation efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, antibacterial efficacy, and the like.

[0014] Moreover, acids are widely used in cosmetics. For example, acid can be functional on unlock the SC cell desmosomes which is a key part for cells connection. Specifically, acid, such as α-hydroxy acid or β-hydroxy acid, helps to remove the connection structure between the keratin in the stratum corneum, and shows a gentle melting effect of the keratin.

[0015] However, the products which contain α-hydroxy acid or β-hydroxy acid at a high concentration giving result in irritation, redness, dryness. On the other hand, polyhydroxy acid is said to be less irritating than conventional hydroxy acids. However, since polyhydroxy acid also has a peeling effect, there are concerns that it may cause a tingling sensation when used, and that it may cause temporary dryness of the skin as dead skin cells are removed. DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0016] There is a need for a stable composition including glycolipid and (poly)hydroxy acid, which does not change its appearance at a variety of temperatures.

[0017] Moreover, there is a need for a composition that provides at least acceptable, and preferably good, feeling to use even when containing (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0018] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which comprises glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, as well as (poly)hydroxy acid, and can provide at least acceptable, and preferably good, feeling to use.

[0019] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0020] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids;

[0021] (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and

[0022] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0023] The weight ratio of the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 7.5 or more.

[0024] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The (b) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight of more than 1,000, preferably more than 1,500, and more preferably more than 2,000.

[0026] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The (c) (poly)hydroxy acid may be chosen from polyhydroxy acids (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, β hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] The polyhydroxy acids may be chosen from dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; their derivatives such as their salts or their lactone forms such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and their mixtures; preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone and their mixtures, and more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone. The α-hydroxy acids may be chosen from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2 -hydroxybutanoic acid, 2 -hydroxypentanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and their mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts; more preferably, the α- hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and even more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid and / or

[0029] The β-hydroxy acids may be chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably chosen from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n- dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid; and more preferably, the β- hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0030] The (c) (poly)hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0031] The amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The weight ratio of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid surfactants and taurate surfactants.

[0034] The (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention; and optionally removing the composition from the keratin material.

[0036] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0037] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which comprises glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, as well as (poly)hydroxy acid, and can provide at least acceptable, and preferably good, feeling to use.

[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0039] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids;

[0040] (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixture thereof; and

[0041] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention is stable.

[0043] The composition according to the present invention is stable such that the appearance of the composition does not substantially change at a variety temperatures, for example at cold temperatures such as -5°C and 4°C, as well as at room temperature (25°C), for a long period of time. For example, if the composition according to the present invention is transparent, it can maintain its transparent aspect at a variety of temperatures for a long period of time.

[0044] The composition according to the present invention can provide at least acceptable, and preferably good, feeling to use, such as non-squeakiness, moisturising feeling and smoothness.

[0045] For example, when the composition according to the present invention is applied onto skin and rinsed off from the skin with water, the composition according to the present invention can provide the skin with good moisturizing feeling and good smooth finish.

[0046] The composition according to the present invention can also provide additional effects.

[0047] As glycolipids such as rhamnolipids have bioactivities, such as anti-inflammation efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, and antibacterial efficacy, including the (a) glycolipid provided by the composition according to the present invention would be useful to care for a keratin material such as skin.

[0048] Since glycolipids can function as (anionic) surfactants, including the (a) glycolipid could also provide enhanced cleansing effects. Thus, the composition according to the present invention would also useful for cleansing a keratin material such as skin.

[0049] The (a) glycolipid can be originated from natural and renewable materials, and are biodegradable. In addition, since polylysines and chitosans can also be obtained from natural resources, the (b) cationic polymer is an environmentally-friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include environmentally-friendly ingredients.

[0050] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[0051] [Composition]

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0053] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof;

[0054] (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and

[0055] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0056] (Glycolipid) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid. A single type of glycolipid may be used, or two or more different types of glycolipids may be used in combination.

[0057] The term “glycolipid” is understood as meaning a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.

[0058] According to the present invention, the (a) glycolipid is selected from sophorolipids rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0059] Sophorolipids:

[0060] The (a) glycolipid may be selected from sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (II): in which:

[0061] R3and R4individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0062] R5represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl,

[0063] R6represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R5and R6does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,

[0064] R7represents a hydrogen atom,

[0065] R8represents a hydroxyl group OH, or R7and R8together form a lactone ring.

[0066] Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7represents a hydrogen atom and R8represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7and R8, as indicated by formula (III): in which:

[0067] R3, R4, R5and R6are as defined above, with the proviso that at least one of R3and R4represents an acetyl group.

[0068] The sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0069] Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various openchain sophorolipids and of sophorolipid lactones that may be used in the form of mixtures, or the required form may be isolated.

[0070] Examples of sophorolipids that may be used include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0071] Rhamnolipids:

[0072] The (a) glycolipid may be selected from rhamnolipids.

[0073] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0074] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of β-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to one another by an ester bond.

[0075] Preferably, rhamnolipids are chosen from mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): in which: m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0076] R1and R2, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0077] Thus, when n is equal to 0, the formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0078] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid.

[0079] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which: m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and R1and R2, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0080] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.

[0081] In the context of the present invention, the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereof with an organic or inorganic cation and especially with a cation selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium. the solvated forms of the di -rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and the term “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.

[0082] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di- rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which: m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and

[0083] Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula -(CH2)oCH3, with 0 denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0084] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0085] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, dirhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0086] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0087] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di- rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0088] in which: m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1, n denotes an integer equal to 1 ,

[0089] Ri is a -(CH2)p-CH3radical, with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,

[0090] R2is a -(CH2)q-CH3radical, with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0091] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, such as are defined in Table 1 below.

[0092] The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative way of writing in order to represent a dirhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals R1and R2respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0093] Table 1

[0094]

[0095] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-C10C10, or one of the salts, solvates and optical isomers thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably of from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1 , p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1represents a -(CH2)oCH3radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R1represents a -(CH2)6CH3radical and R2a nonenyl radical, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) as defined previously, and more particularly selected from: a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 ; a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1 , p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1represents a -(CH2)oCH3radical, with 0 being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R1represents a -(CH2)6CH3radical and R2a nonenyl radical.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from: at least 50% by weight and preferably of from 51 % to 85% by weight of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 , relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a dirhamno lipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1represents a -(CH2)6CH3radical and R2represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0101] The rhamnolipids are customarily prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art starting from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0102] Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0103] Use may be made, as rhamnolipid, of the product sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).

[0104] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

[0108] (Cationic Polymer)

[0109] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof. A single type of such a cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of such cationic polymers may be used in combination. A cationic polymer can have a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0110] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer is less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000, and more preferably less than 10,000. In other words, the (b) cationic polymer may be a low molecular weight polylysine or chitosan.

[0111] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000, preferably more than 1,500, and more preferably more than 2,000.

[0112] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably more than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably more than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0113] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a weight average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

[0115] Polylysines correspond to the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0116] Polylysine can be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (or referred as “ε-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the ε-position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or alphapolylysine (or referred as “α-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the α- position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.

[0117] As an example of polylysine, mention may be made of:

[0118] Epsilon-poly-L-lysine of JNC CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of Epsilon- poly-L-lysine having a molecular weight of around 4,700 in aqueous solution; and

[0119] Polylysine of Shandong Freda Biotechnology which is in the form of white to creamy yellow powder and has a molecular weight between 4,130 and 5,776.

[0120] According to one particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example, a polylysine with a fatty chain as described in application FR 2889448, a polylysine with a guanidine or biguanidine function as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in the application FR2853533.

[0121] The polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. The addition salts with an acid are, for example, the hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulphonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid salts; or fatty acid salts, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. The addition salts with a base are, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, N-methyl glucamine, aminopropane diol or triethanolamine.

[0122] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present in a form of a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bound to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to dye compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term “polyorganosiloxane” is well-known in the art to mean compounds having Si-O main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0123] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in the free form. The term “free form” here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bound to any other compounds.

[0124] According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans.

[0125] Chitosan is very uncommon in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, zygomycetes.

[0126] Chitosan may be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a type β bond (1,4).

[0127] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers connected by a glycosidic bond (1→ 4).

[0128] "Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, whose degree of acetylation is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β type bonds (1,4) and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.

[0129] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0130] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration by a strong base.

[0131] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0132] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger. Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably is of nonGMO origin.

[0133] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0134] One method of preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0135] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in a powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0136] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) be 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) be from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

[0141] The (a) glycolipid(s) may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount which is the same as or greater than that of the (b) cationic polymer(s).

[0142] Thus, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more and more preferably 7.5 or more.

[0143] ((Poly)hydroxy Acids)

[0144] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid. A single type of (poly)hydroxy acid may be used, or two or more different types of (poly)hydroxy acids may be used in combination.

[0145] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Polyhydroxy Acid:

[0147] The term "polyhydroxy acid (PHA)" designates an organic compound which possesses at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited but one or two carboxyl groups are preferred, one carboxyl group being more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited either but 2 to 10 are preferred, and 2 to 6 are even more preferred. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited but preferably the PHA contains from 3 to 11 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8.

[0148] The PHA can be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is chosen from sugar acids.

[0149] The polyhydroxy acid is advantageously chosen from: dihydroxypropanoic acid, such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid, such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid, such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid, such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid, such as glucoheptanoic acid or galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, their derivatives in the form of salts or their lactone forms, such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone, and their mixtures.

[0150] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts comprise alkali metal salts, such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts, such as the calcium salt and the magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts, such as the monoethanolamine salt, the diethanolamine salt and the triethanolamine salt; and their mixtures. The sodium salt is preferable. If two or more acid salts are used, they can be identical or different.

[0151] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is provided in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring is preferably saturated and preferably, in this case, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from gluconolactone, ribonolactone and their mixtures.

[0152] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is thus chosen from: lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone and their mixtures.

[0153] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention uses just one or else several PHAs, so as to select or combine their effects. For example, lactobionic acid, derived from lactose, is moisturizing, anti-oxidizing and soothing. Gluconic acid, and gluconolactone, are naturally present in skin cells. Their role is as antioxidant and antiinflammatory.

[0154] Preferably, said polyhydroxy acid used in the composition according to the invention is gluconolactone.

[0155] The amount of PHA in the composition according to the present invention is within the range from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.2% to 4%, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, preferably from 1% to 2%, by weight (of active material), with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Hydroxy Acid:

[0157] The term “hydroxyl acid” here means a mono- or poly-carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group which is different from the polyhydroxy acid.

[0158] The hydroxy acid may be chosen from α- and β- hydroxy acids. In one embodiment, the hydroxy acid may be a mixture of α-hydroxy acid and β-hydroxy acid. The α- and β- positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an α- or β- position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e., is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl function. The hydroxy acid may be present in a form chosen from free acids, associated salts thereof (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides or lactones (i.e., the form obtained by self-esterification of the molecules).

[0159] The term “α-hydroxy acid”, or “AHA”, here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0160] The α-hydroxy acid may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0161] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH where

[0162] Raand Rbare H, F, Cl, Br, I, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and in addition Raand Rbmay carry OH, CHO, COOH and alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

[0163] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxyacids may be present as a free acid or lactone form, or in a partial salt form with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. The alpha hydroxyacids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

[0164] When Raand Rbare alkyl, they independently can be within any of the groups of C1-C5, C6- C10, C11-C15, C16-C20, C21-C25and C26-C29. Compounds within the above chemical formula thus include all of the possible combinations of Raand Rb. Included within the foregoing is a subgenus of compounds having Raand Rbindependently selected from C1-C12.

[0165] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Raand Rbinclude methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.

[0166] The alpha hydroxyacids of the first group may be subdivided into

[0167] (1) alkyl alpha hydroxyacids,

[0168] (2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxyacids,

[0169] (3) polyhydroxy alpha hydroxyacids,

[0170] (4) polycarboxylic alpha hydroxyacids, and

[0171] (5) miscellaneous alpha hydroxyacids.

[0172] The following are representative alpha hydroxyacids in each subgroup.

[0173] (1) Alkyl Alpha Hydroxy acids: 2 -hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2 -hydroxypentanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2 -hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2- hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3- dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)

[0174] (2) Aralkyl And Aryl Alpha Hydroxyacids: 2-phenyl 2 -hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2 -hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2 -hydroxy ethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4- hydroxymandelic acid.

[0175] (3) Polyhydroxy Alpha Hydroxyacids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4- trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2, 3,4,5- tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2, 3, 4, 5,6,7- hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.)

[0176] (4) Polycarboxylic Alpha Hydroxyacids: 2 -hydroxypropane- 1,3 -dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2- hydroxybutane- 1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2 -hydroxy-2-methylbutane- 1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2, 3 -dihydroxybutane- 1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane- 1, 5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid, arabaric acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5- tetrahydroxyhexane-l,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid); 2 -hydroxy- 1,2, 3- propanetricarboxylic acid (citric acid); 1 -hydroxy- 1,2, 3 -propanetricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid); l-hydroxy-l,2,4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homoisocitric acid); 2-hy droxy-3 -hexadecyl- 1,2, 3 -propanetricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid; agaricic acid).

[0177] (5) Miscellaneous Alpha Hydroxyacids: glyceruronic acid, erythruronic acid, threuronic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanuronic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

[0178] The α-hydroxy acids may be chosen from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2 -hydroxypentanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2 -hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and their mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts; more preferably, the α- hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and even more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid.

[0179] Preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid and a mixture thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconic acid, and a mixture thereof, even more preferably from lactic acid.

[0180] The term “β-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0181] As β-hydroxy acids, mention may be made, without limitation, of salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (I) below or a salt of such a derivative: in which:

[0182] R1 represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

[0183] -O-CO-R4 in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0184] R2 and R3, independently of one another, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a radical: -(O)n-(CO)m-R5 in which n and m, independently of one another, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1 ; on condition that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

[0185] R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, it being possible for the radicals to be substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterifled with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0186] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is in position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a radical -CO-R5 in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0187] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is chosen from salicylic acid esters such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n- decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n- heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5- methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3, 5 -diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5- butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n- hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, and 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. It is more particularly 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid).

[0188] The β-hydroxy acids may be chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably chosen from salicylic acid, 5 -(n-octanoyl) salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n- dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid; and more preferably, the β- hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0189] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid ester and a mixture thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, and a mixture thereof, even more preferably from salicylic acid.

[0190] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from lactones of polyhydroxy acids, and more preferably gluconolactone.

[0191] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from α-hydroxy acids, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably lactic acid.

[0192] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from β-hydroxy acids, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid ester, and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably salicylic acid.

[0193] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from lactones of polyhydroxy acids, α- monohydroxy acids, β-monohydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] More preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0195] The amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] The amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative , to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] The amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

[0199] The (c) (poly)hydroxyl acid(s) may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount which is the same as or greater than that of the (b) cationic polymer(s). Thus, the weight ratio of the amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxyl acid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, more preferably 5 or more, more preferably 7.5 or more, and even more preferably 10 or more.

[0200] (Anionic Surfactant)

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant. A single type of an anionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0202] Preferably, the (d) anionic surfactant is selected from amino acid surfactants, taurate surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0203] Amino Acid Surfactant:

[0204] The term “amino acid surfactant” here means an anionic surfactant based on amino acids or derivatives thereof. Typically, the amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant comprising at least one amino moiety and at least one carboxylic acid moiety which is in the form of a carboxylate. The amino acid surfactant may have two or more of amino moieties and / or two or more carboxylic acid moieties which are in the form of carboxylates. The amino acid surfactant can be also called as an amino acid-based surfactant.

[0205] The amino acid surfactant is different from the taurate surfactant here.

[0206] The amino acid surfactant may preferably be selected from amino acid derivatives. The amino acid derivative may more preferably be selected from salts of amino acids and N- acylated amino acids, for example alkali metal salts and alkali earth metal salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, such as sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, and calcium salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids. Thus, the amino acid surfactant is preferably a N-acyl amino acid surfactant.

[0207] The acyl group which forms the N-acyl moiety of the amino acid derivatives may be a C1-C30acyl group, preferably a C6-C28acyl group, and more preferably a C12-C24acyl group.

[0208] The amino acid surfactant may even more preferably be selected from the group consisting of glutamates, N-acylated glutamates, aspartates, N-acylated aspartates, and salts thereof.

[0209] The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group situated on the α- carbon or β-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides. The acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C22fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide). Representative acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9- octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids. A method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.

[0210] In one embodiment, said amino acid based anionic surfactant is represented by the formula (A): wherein:

[0211] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0212] X is hydrogen or methyl group, n is 0 or 1 ,

[0213] Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, - CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, - CH2C(O)O-M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+, and

[0214] M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the amino fatty acid of formula (A):

[0216] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear C8to C18alkyl group, in particular a cocoyl group,

[0217] X is hydrogen, n is 0,

[0218] Y is hydrogen, and

[0219] M is a salt- forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0220] Examples of the amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof. More specifically, mention can be made of the amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β- alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Reference can be made to the commercially available amino acid surfactants of, for example: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken; or sodium cocoyl alaninates, sold under the name Amilite® ACS- 12 by Ajinomoto; glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto; disodium glutamates, disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto, and mixtures thereof; sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SF-N by BASF Japan; disodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SCG-L by BASF Japan; and disodium / sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® CS-22 by Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N -lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto; citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance.

[0222] It may be preferable that the amino acid surfactant be selected from glutamates, and more preferably from the group consisting of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof.

[0223] Taurate Surfactant:

[0224] The term “taurate surfactant” here means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one taurate moiety. The taurate surfactant can be also called as a taurate-based surfactant.

[0225] The taurate surfactant is preferably acyl taurate, more preferably N-acyl taurate, and even more preferably N-acyl methyl taurate (i.e. N-acyl-N-methyltaurate).

[0226] The taurate surfactants include those of Formula I, below: wherein,

[0227] R7is (C8-C22)alkyl;

[0228] R8is H or (C1-C4)alkyl;

[0229] R9and R10are each independently H or (C1-C4)alkyl; and M+is a sodium, potassium, or ammonium cation.

[0230] The taurate surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of taurate, caproyl taurate, lauroyl taurate, myristoyl taurate, palmitoyl taurate, stearoyl taurate, oleoyl taurate, cocoyl taurate, methyl taurate, coconut oil fatty acid methyl taurate, palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurate, hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurate, beef tallow fatty acid methyl taurate, hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acid methyl taurate, caproyl methyl taurate, lauroyl methyl taurate, myristoyl methyl taurate, palmitoyl methyl taurate, stearoyl methyl taurate, oleoyl methyl taurate, cocoyl methyl taurate, methyltaurine cocoyl methyl taurate, and salts thereof.

[0231] For example, the taurate surfactants include sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, calcium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, and ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate. Likewise, in some instances, the taurate surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

[0232] Examples of the taurate surfactant include, but are not limited to: sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by

[0233] Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol; sodium methyl stearoyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT®; and sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.

[0234] The amount of the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The amount of the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The amount of the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) and the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) / the total amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) and the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1 to 1, preferably 0.15 to 0.75, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5.

[0238] (Water)

[0239] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.

[0240] The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] (pH)

[0244] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5, and more preferably from 5 to 7.

[0245] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, different or similar to the (poly)hydroxy acid mentioned above. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0246] (Optional Ingredient)

[0247] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers, anionic surfactants other than the (a) glycolipid or the (d) anionic surfactant; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from, for example, synthetic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; polyols; cationic polymers other than polylysines or chitosans; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; fatty acids; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables other than the (b) cationic polymer; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0248] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in particular preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no silicone.

[0250] (Embodiments)

[0251] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids; from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0252] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof; from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b’) at least one polylysine having a molecular weight of more than 1,000; and from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (c’) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from polyhydroxy acid (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0253] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 1% to 10% by weight of (a’) at least one rhamnolipid; from 0.1% to 3% by weight of (b”) at least one polylysine having a molecular weight of more than 1,000 and less than 20,000; and from 0.1% to 10% by weight of (c”) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0254] [Preparation]

[0255] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0256] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0257] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Also, heating may not be necessary.

[0258] [Form] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.

[0259] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, a toner, a serum, or a lotion.

[0260] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be packaged with an auto foam pump which enables consumers to use the composition as a foam.

[0261] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam.

[0262] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is packaged in an auto-foam.

[0263] The composition according to the present invention, before being diluted with, for example, water, can have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0264] The transparency may be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, with 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter from HACK). The turbidity of the composition according to the present invention may be below 400 NTU (translucent), preferably below 350 NTU, more preferably below 300 NTU (transparent).

[0265] [Cosmetic Application]

[0266] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin material. Keratin material here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for the keratin material, in particular skin.

[0267] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition, and more preferably a face care composition.

[0268] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleansing. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cleansing cosmetic composition, more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for skin, and even more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for face.

[0269] [Cosmetic Process and Use]

[0270] The present invention also relates to: a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention; and optionally removing the composition from the keratin material such as the skin, or a use of the composition according to the present invention for caring for or cleansing a keratin material such as skin.

[0271] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method, such as for a cosmetic method for caring or for cleansing the surface of a keratin material such as skin.

[0272] The step of removing in the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be performed by, for example, rinsing off with water the composition according to the present invention from a keratin material such as skin.

[0273] If the step of removing is not performed, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be useful for caring for a keratin material such as skin, because the (a) glycolipid can provide the keratin material with anti-inflammation, anti-allergic, or antibacterial properties, which would be useful for, in particular, caring for skin with acne and sensitive skin.

[0274] Preferably, the composition is removed from the keratin material such as the skin.

[0275] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a rinsing step to remove the composition from the keratin material, such as the skin.

[0276] The present invention relates to the use of the composition as described above for caring or for cleansing the surface of a keratin material such as skin.

[0277] The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, in a composition comprising

[0278] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids, and

[0279] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid, in order to make the composition provide a keratin material with enhanced anti-inflammation, anti-allergic, or anti-bacterial properties, which would be useful for, in particular, caring for skin with acne and sensitive skin.

[0280] The present invention may also relate to a use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, in a composition comprising

[0281] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids, and

[0282] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid, in order to stabilize the composition, for example at -5°C, 4°C or 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101325 Pa).

[0283] The above explanations regarding the (a) glycolipid, the (b) cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid for the composition according to the present invention, can apply to those in the above use.

[0284] EXAMPLES

[0285] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0286] Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 [Preparations]

[0287] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

[0288] Table 1

[0289] [Evaluations]

[0290] (Stability)

[0291] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was stored in a transparent glass bottle and maintained at -5°C, 4°C or 25°C for 1 month. After 1 month, the appearance of each composition was visually evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0292] Good: No precipitation was observed and original appearance was kept.

[0293] Fair: Very small amount of white particles was observed at the bottom of the glass bottle.

[0294] Poor: Large amount of white particles was observed at the bottom of the glass bottle. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0295] (Sensory Evaluation)

[0296] Five professional panelists evaluated “squeakiness”, “moisturizing feeling” and “smoothness” of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 in accordance with by the following steps:

[0297] (1) Each composition was charged into a container with an outlet and a pump such that the composition can be discharged from the container via the outlet by pushing the pump:

[0298] (2) A hand was washed with water for 2 seconds;

[0299] (3) Each composition was provided onto the hand by pushing the pump twice;

[0300] (4) The hand was massaged to apply the composition onto the hand;

[0301] (5) The composition was rinsed off with water (squeakiness was evaluated); and

[0302] (6) The hand was dried by patting with a paper towel (moisturizing feeling and smoothness were evaluated).

[0303] The criteria of the evaluation for each of “squeakiness”, “moisturizing feeling” and “smoothness” was as follows.

[0304] Squeakiness:

[0305] Good; No squeakiness Fair; Little squeakiness Poor; Strong squeakiness

[0306] Moisturizing Feeling:

[0307] Good; Increased moisturizing feeling

[0308] Fair; No change before and after the steps (1) to (6) Poor; Decreased moisturizing feeling

[0309] Smoothness:

[0310] Good; Very smooth

[0311] Fair; No change before and after the steps (1) to (6) Poor; Not smooth

[0312] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0313] (Summary)

[0314] The compositions according to Examples 1-2 were found to have good or acceptable stability.

[0315] Comparative Example 1 should be compared with Example 1. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include polylysine was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 provided inferior feeling to use (more squeaky, less moisturizing feeling and less smooth) to the composition according to Example 1.

[0316] Comparative Example 2 should be compared with Example 2. The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include polylysine was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 2 provided inferior feeling to use (more squeaky, less moisturizing feeling and less smooth) to the composition according to Example 2.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids;(b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof; and(c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

2. The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 7.5 or more.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of more than 1 ,000, preferably more than 1 ,500, and more preferably more than 2,000.

5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is chosen from polyhydroxy acids (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, β- hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to Claim 6, wherein the polyhydroxy acids are chosen from dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; their derivatives, such as their salts or their lactone forms, such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and their mixtures; preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid gluconolactone, ribonolactone and their mixtures, and more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

8. The composition according to Claim 6, wherein: the α-hydroxy acids are chosen from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2 -hydroxybutanoic acid, 2- hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2 -hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2 -hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and their mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts; more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and even more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid; and / or the β-hydroxy acids are chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably chosen from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n- decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid, and more preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and a mixture thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid(s) / the amount of the (b) cationic polymer in the composition is 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid surfactants and taurate surfactants.

13. The composition according to Claim 12, wherein the amount of the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13; and optionally removing the composition from the keratin material.

15. A use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, in a composition comprising(a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids, and(c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid, in order to make the composition provide a keratin material with enhanced antiinflammation, anti-allergic, or anti-bacterial properties.

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