Cosmetic composition comprising camellia oleifera oils, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty substances, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising Camellia oleifera oils in a content of at least 0.15% by weight, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty substances. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, of the hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprisingCamellia oleiferaoils, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty substances, and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising particular liquid fatty substances and solid fatty substances, in combination with at least one particular plant oil. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially the hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair may generally be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

[0003] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the tips.

[0004] Thus, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to make use of hair care compositions intended in particular to condition the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.

[0005] It is moreover known practice to use compositions of conditioner type, comprising solid fatty esters, camellia oil and cationic surfactants of fatty amine type. However, these compositions may yet be improved, especially as regards the cosmetic properties afforded to the hair, by imparting the hair with a high cosmetic level, especially an improved smooth feel. Also sought are compositions which make it possible to strengthen and / or repair the hair, in particular damaged hair, through a more homogeneous coating of the fiber.

[0006] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products the design and development of which take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges. It is thus essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a good carbon footprint, especially by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is thus a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, especially hair compositions, which are capable of giving hair, especially damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratin materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, especially for damaged hair.

[0009] This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is therefore especially a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:

[0010] - one or moreCamellia oleiferaoils, in a total content of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0011] - one or more liquid fatty esters, and

[0012] - one or more solid fatty substances.

[0013] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide a very good level of softening (or suppleness) to the keratin fibers: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the head of hair has more movement and bounce, and appears more natural. The softening of the head of hair is reinforced in particular on wet hair: after application of the composition, the hair instantaneously becomes supple, fluid and smooth under water. It appears to be further transformed and treated.

[0014] Also noted are a smooth feel of the hair and also a homogeneity of the coating and of the texture of the keratin fibers, from the root to the tip. The hair appears to be more regular and exhibits a particularly homogeneous coating and an absence of roughness to the touch; the irregularities in the damaged scales are no longer perceptible to the touch; the smooth nature of the head of hair is both visual and tactile; the hair thus appears to be repaired.

[0015] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to impart upon the hair advantageous cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, softness, a smooth nature visually and to the touch, ease of disentangling, especially on the most damaged hair.

[0016] In addition, visually, provision of sheen of the head of hair is observed after application of the composition.

[0017] In the present application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0018] - the term "keratin materials" denotes keratin fibers (in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails) and also the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0019] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be replaced therewith; and

[0020] - the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...", these expressions being interchangeable.Camellia oleifera oil

[0021] The composition also comprises one or more oils of camellia belonging to the speciesCamellia oleifera.

[0022] Said oil(s) may be extracted from all or part of the plant, in particular from the stem, the leaves, the buds, the roots, the flowers, the petals and / or the seeds; advantageously, the oil is extracted from the seeds.

[0023] The extraction may be performed in any way known to a person skilled in the art; advantageously, it is performed by pressing, in particular by cold pressing, of the plant or plant part(s) under consideration. After extraction, the oil may be purified.

[0024] Preferably, use is made of aCamellia oleiferaseed oil, obtained in particular by pressingCamellia oleiferaseeds.

[0025] In the context of the invention, use may in particular be made of the oil with the INCI name "CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL".

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises theCamellia oleiferaoil(s) in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise theCamellia oleiferaseed oil(s) in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises theCamellia oleiferaoil(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.15% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.17% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.20% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises theCamellia oleiferaseed oil(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.15% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.17% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.20% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Liquid fatty esters

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty esters.

[0031] Said liquid fatty esters are different from theCamellia oleiferaoils described above, and also, in general, oils of triglyceride type such as plant oils.

[0032] The term "liquid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0033] The term "fatty" is understood to mean that the compound (in particular alcohol, acid or ester) comprises at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0034] The term "ester" is understood to mean, in the usual way, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.

[0035] The liquid fatty esters are non-silicone esters (do not comprise any Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0036] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a fatty acid, especially esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0037] Said carboxylic acid may be a monoacid or a polyacid, preferably a monoacid.

[0038] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0039] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid.

[0040] Very particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid.

[0041] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0042] Said alcohol may be a monoalcohol or a polyol, preferably a monoalcohol.

[0043] Said alcohol may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0044] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol.

[0045] Very particularly, said alcohol may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol.

[0046] Thus, the liquid fatty esters that may be employed within the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH); and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; one at least of the alcohol or the acid preferably being branched.

[0047] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0048] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0049] Preferably, mention may be made of the esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0050] Advantageously, mention may be made of the esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0051] Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0052] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;

[0053] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;

[0054] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;

[0055] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;

[0056] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;

[0057] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;

[0058] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;

[0059] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;

[0060] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0061] - octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates;

[0062] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0063] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid fatty ester(s) may be chosen from the liquid esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 alcohol.

[0065] Among said liquid esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 alcohol, mention may be made in particular of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C14-C18 or branched C14-C18 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C5 or branched C3-C5 mono- or polyalcohols.

[0066] Preference is given to using one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol.

[0067] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are obtained is branched, preferably the alcohol.

[0068] Better still, use is made of one or more liquid esters of a linear C14-C18, especially C15-17, even better still C16, monocarboxylic acid and of a branched C3-C5, especially C3, monoalcohol.

[0069] Mention may be made in particular of the liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol, especially branched C3-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Even better still, the liquid fatty ester(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched; in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s), on the one hand, and the total amount ofCamellia oleiferaoil(s), on the other, is greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 2, even better still greater than or equal to 3, even better still greater than or equal to 3.5, or even greater than or equal to 3.8, even better still greater than or equal to 4, or even 5.

[0075] Advantageously, this weight ratio may be between 1 and 20, or even between 2 and 20, especially between 3 and 18, better still between 3.5 and 15, even better still between 3.8 and 12, or even between 4 and 10, and preferentially between 5 and 8.Solid fatty substances

[0076] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more solid fatty substances. This or these fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances (do not contain any Si-O bonds).

[0077] The term "solid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0078] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, butters and ceramides, and also mixtures thereof.

[0079] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0080] The term "fatty acids" is understood to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.

[0081] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The term "fatty alcohol" is understood to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0083] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0084] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0085] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0086] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0087] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol, different from the liquid fatty esters above; better still, they are chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0088] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0089] Use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0090] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from the solid esters of a fatty acid and of a fatty alcohol, and better still from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol which are solid are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] A wax, for the purposes of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than approximately 40°C and which can range up to 200°C, and exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, conferring on the composition which comprises them a cloudy, more or less opaque, appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0094] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0096] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0097] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0098] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains.

[0099] Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.

[0100] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by Sophim, may also be used.

[0101] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by Koster Keunen.

[0102] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders.

[0103] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance ozokerite, lignite, petroleum jelly or paraffin wax; plant waxes, for instance cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0105] Mention may be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0106] One or more butters may also be used.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also known as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid change in state and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0108] Preferably, the butters according to the invention have a melting starting point of greater than 25°C and a melting end point of less than 60°C, at atmospheric pressure.

[0109] Preferably, the butters are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0110] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter orBassia madhuca longifoliabutter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter, and also mixtures thereof.

[0111] Shea butter (with the INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER) is an example of a preferred butter.

[0112] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Better still, the solid fatty substances are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0114] Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises both one or more saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and one or more esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Surfactants of fatty amine type

[0117] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, which may advantageously be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants. Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amine type.

[0119] The term "fatty amine" is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain. Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0120] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0121] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0122] The term "amidoamine" is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0123] The term "fatty amidoamine" is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain.

[0124] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0125] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2in which:

[0126] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0127] - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0128] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0129] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0131] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

[0132] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention, when they are present, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type in the composition according to the invention, when they are present, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional fatty substances

[0136] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional fatty substances, different from the solid fatty substances and liquid fatty esters above, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, silicones, liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin other than theCamellia oleiferaoils above, mineral oils.

[0137] The liquid hydrocarbons may be C6-C18 liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16, especially C10-C14, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The silicones, which may be volatile or nonvolatile, may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0142] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:

[0143] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0144] mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0145] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0146] Among the nonvolatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0147] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0148] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0149] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols;

[0150] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0151] - alkoxylated groups;

[0152] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

[0153] - acyloxyalkyl groups;

[0154] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, of the alkylcarboxylic type, or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type;

[0155] - hydroxyacylamino groups.

[0156] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0157] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA).

[0158] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5to 5×10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0159] The silicones that may be used may be amino silicones. The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0160] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) that may be employed within the context of the invention are chosen from:

[0161] a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

[0162] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately;

[0163] b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

[0164] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a(B)

[0165] in which:

[0166] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C1-C8alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8alkoxy, for example methoxy, group,

[0167] - a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,

[0168] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0169] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10;

[0170] - R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -N(R'')2; -N+(R'')3A-; -NR''-Q-N(R'')2and -NR''-Q-N+(R'')3A-, in which R'', which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0171] Preferably, the aminosilicones of formula (B) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), (G) below:

[0172] A / the "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone" silicones corresponding to formula (C):

[0173] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10.

[0174] B / the silicones of formula (D) below:

[0175] in which:

[0176] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, especially from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0177] - R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1to R3denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0178] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

[0179] C / the silicones of formula (E) below:

[0180] in which:

[0181] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and especially from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0182] - R1and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1or R2denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0183] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 and more particularly still from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.

[0184] D / the silicones of formula (F) below:

[0185] in which:

[0186] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10;

[0187] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0188] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

[0189] E / the silicones of formula (G) below:

[0190] in which:

[0191] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10;

[0192] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0193] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

[0194] As amino silicones that may be used, mention may also be made of:

[0195] (i) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

[0196] in which:

[0197] - R5represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl or C2-C18alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0198] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0199] - Q-is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

[0200] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0201] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

[0202] (ii) the silicones comprising a quaternary ammonium, of formula (I):

[0203] in which:

[0204] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0205] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0206] - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or an -R6-NHCOR7radical;

[0207] - X-is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

[0208] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

[0209] (iii) the amino silicones of formula (J):

[0210] in which:

[0211] - R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0212] - R5denotes a C1-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0213] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0214] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0215] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0216] (iv) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group.

[0217] Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0218] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0219] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0220] in which:

[0221] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0222] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0223] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0224] - R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0225] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes a H2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical;

[0226] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0227] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0228] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0229] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000;

[0230] (v) the alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

[0231] in which:

[0232] - the radicals R represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl group,

[0233] - the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6alkyl group or a C1-C6aminoalkyl group;

[0234] - x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

[0235] - n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0236] Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3(methyl).

[0237] Preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, especially ethyl; or a C2-C4aminoalkyl group, especially of structure –(CaH2a)-NH2with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

[0238] Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x = 3.

[0239] Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y = 3.

[0240] Preferably, x = y.

[0241] Preferably, n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10 000 and 150 000 g / mol, or even between 15 000 and 100 000 g / mol.

[0242] More preferentially, the amino silicone corresponds to formula (K) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

[0243] Preferably, the additional fatty substances are chosen from silicones, especially amino silicones.

[0244] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Polyols

[0247] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more polyols.

[0248] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0249] More particularly, the polyol or polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0250] Advantageously, the polyol or polyols are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even better still from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0251] When they are present, the polyol or polyols may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0252] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, especially monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0253] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0255] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they correspond to formula (I) below:

[0256] in which:

[0257] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0;

[0258] - A is a monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0259] Mention may in particular be made, alone or as a mixture, of lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0260] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; and basifying or acidifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0262] The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, the hair.

[0263] The hair compositions are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, especially a conditioner, that can be rinsed off.

[0264] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the keratin materials, especially the hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time. It is preferably rinsed off, after an optional leave-on time.

[0265] A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

[0266] A step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is preferably carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0267] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, especially using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0268] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0269] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples.Example 1

[0270] The cosmetic composition according to the invention A and comparative cosmetic composition A' are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (% g AM).

[0271] A (invention)A' (comparative)Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine33Isopropyl myristate1.51.5Camellia oleiferaoil(INCI: CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL)0.20.1Cetyl esters(INCI: CETYL ESTERS)22Cetearyl alcohol77Glycerol22Tartaric acid0.70.7PreservativesqsQsWaterqs 100qs 100Sensory evaluation

[0272] The locks of sensitized (AS20) hair of Caucasian type are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), in a proportion of 0.3 g per gram of lock. The locks are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h – temperature 35°C).

[0273] Composition A or A' is applied to the locks of still-wet hair, in a proportion of 0.45 g per gram of lock. After a waiting time of 5 minutes, the lock is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h – temperature 35°C).

[0274] The suppleness of the locks of hair treated with compositions A or A' is evaluated blind on wet hair, by 5 trained evaluators, and scored on a scale ranging from 0 [not] to 10 [very] in increments of 0.5.

[0275] The suppleness is evaluated as follows: the evaluator takes handfuls of the hair and tries to fold it. The more easily the hair can be folded or bent, the more pliable it is, the better the suppleness.

[0276] The following results are obtained:

[0277] Performance criterionComposition A(invention)Composition A'(comparative)SupplenessScores: 7 / 7 / 6 / 7 / 8Mean: 7 ± 0.7Scores: 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 5Mean: 5 ± 0

[0278] It is found that, for all the evaluators, composition A according to the invention provides cosmetic performance qualities in terms of suppleness which are superior to those provided by composition A'. These results are statistically significant.Measurement of the reptation force

[0279] Locks of sensitized (AS20) hair of Caucasian type are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), in a proportion of 0.3 g per gram of lock. The locks are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h – temperature 35°C).

[0280] Composition A or A' is applied to the locks of still-wet hair, in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the lock is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h – temperature 35°C).

[0281] The suppleness on wet hair is evaluated by measuring the reptation force of the lock, moving at a constant speed (500 mm / min), over a path consisting of rollers that can rotate on themselves without friction. This method is presented in particular in the publicationJ. Cosmet. Sci.,60, 135–141 (2009). 6 samples per condition are evaluated.

[0282] The lower the force required to pass the lock through the rollers, the more the lock is said to be "supple".

[0283] The following results are obtained (mean over 6 values):

[0284] Composition A(invention)Composition A'(comparative)Work (rotational W) (mJ)18.4 ± 3.0226.5 ± 4.12

[0285] By comparing condition A with condition A', it is found that the p-value is 0.003; the results are therefore statistically very significant.

[0286] Composition A according to the invention thus affords a cosmetic quality benefit, with in particular significantly better softening of the wet head of hair. The hair thus appears to be further transformed and better treated.Example 2

[0287] The compositions according to the invention B and C are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (% g AM).

[0288] BCCetearyl alcohol76.5Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine33.6Glycerol22.2Isopropyl palmitate21.5CETYL ESTERS22CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL0.50.2Amodimethicone-0.2Tartaric acid0.70.8PreservativesqsQsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0289] The compositions thus obtained can be used as rinse-off hair masks.

[0290] It is found that they confer good cosmetic performance qualities to the hair, especially in terms of smooth feel, suppleness and softness. The hair appears to be transformed, better treated and less dry than with a conventional mask, and thus appears to be repaired.

Claims

A cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:- one or moreCamellia oleiferaoils, in a total content of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,- one or more liquid fatty esters, and- one or more solid fatty substances.The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the total content ofCamellia oleiferaoil(s) ranges from 0.15% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.17% to 2% by weight, preferentially from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.20% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty esters are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid, it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH); and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol, it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; one at least of the alcohol or the acid preferably being branched;preferably, from the esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched;better still from the esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched.The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty esters are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, liquid esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 alcohol; such as the liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol, especially branched C3-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s), on the one hand, and the total amount ofCamellia oleiferaoil(s), on the other, is greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 2, even better still greater than or equal to 3, even better still greater than or equal to 3.5, or even greater than or equal to 3.8, even better still greater than or equal to 4, or even 5; preferably is between 1 and 20, or even between 2 and 20, especially between 3 and 18, better still between 3.5 and 15, even better still between 3.8 and 12, or even between 4 and 10, and preferentially between 5 and 8.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, butters and ceramides, and also mixtures thereof; preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof;better still from, alone or as a mixture, saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the solid fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, especially chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably from amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2 in which:- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical;preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; even better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; even better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.The composition as claimed in claim 9 or 10, wherein the total content of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional fatty substances, preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, silicones, liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, mineral oils; preferably chosen from silicones, especially amino silicones.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyols, especially in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising water, especially in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight, even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably corresponding to formula (I) below:in which:- n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0;- A is a monovalent or multivalent, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups;especially, alone or as a mixture, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.A process for the cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15 to said keratin materials, preferably a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is carried out after the step of applying the composition.

Images