Cosmetic skin care composition
A cosmetic composition combining polyamino acid, linear polysaccharide, and filler forms a non-transparent film to scatter light and enhance skin tone, addressing the limitations of transparent films in existing products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/080082
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-07
- Filing Date
- 2025-06-05
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions using hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid form transparent films, which do not effectively scatter light for skin brightening effects.
A composition comprising polyamino acid (such as polyglutamic acid), linear polysaccharide (such as hyaluronic acid), and a filler (like hydrophobic silica) forms a non-transparent film that scatters light and provides skin brightening effects.
The composition creates a translucent or opaque film that brightens the skin by scattering light, offering moisturizing, mattifying, and smoothing effects while providing a refreshing sensation.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COSMETIC SKIN CARE COMPOSITION
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is capable of forming a non-transparent film.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] In the skincare field, one challenge is to instantly brighten up skin tone which can be achieved by, for example, scattering light on the skin. A non-transparent film, such as a translucent film, on the skin would effectively scatter light on the skin, while a transparent film would not.
[0008] Hyaluronic acids have been widely used in cosmetic products seeking for moisturizing effects and the like. Hyaluronic acids can form a film on a keratin material such as skin. However, the film of hyaluronic acids is very transparent, and therefore, it cannot provide any skin brightening effects.
[0009] On the other hand, it has been proposed to use polyglutamic acids in cosmetic products seeking for moisturizing effects and the like. Polyglutamic acid can also form a film on a keratin material such as skin. However, the film of polyglutamic acid is very transparent, and therefore, it cannot provide any skin brightening effects.
[0010] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0011] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which includes polyamino acid, such as polyglutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and linear polysaccharide such as hyaluronic acid and a salt thereof, and can form a non-transparent film.
[0012] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0013] (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof;
[0014] (b) at least one linear polysaccharide; and
[0015] (c) at least one filler.
[0016] It is preferable that viscosity of a 1% by weight aqueous solution of the (b) linear polysaccharide is at least 10 times higher than the viscosity of a 1% by weight aqueous solution of the (a) polyamino acid or a salt thereof.
[0017] The polyamino acid may be selected from polyglutamic acids.
[0018] Die amount of the (a) poly amino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (b) linear polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The (b) linear polysaccharide may be selected from hyaluronic acid salts, preferably hyaluronic acid alkaline metal salts, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0021] The amount of the (b) linear polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The (c) filler may be selected from inorganic fillers, preferably metal oxides, and more preferably silicas.
[0023] The (c) filler may be selected from hydrophobic inorganic fillers, preferably hydrophobically- modified metal oxides, and more preferably hydrophobically-modified silicas, zinc oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0024] The (c) filler may be selected from hydrophobic silicas, preferably from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and more preferably from hydrophobic aerogel particles of silica silylate.
[0025] The amount of the (c) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one branched polysaccharide.
[0027] The (d) branched polysaccharide may be selected from heteropolysaccharides consisting of at least two constituents selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid, preferably selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, branched dextrin, succinoglycan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably locus bean gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof.
[0028] The amount of the (d) branched polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin material.
[0030] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0031] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes polyamino acid, such as polyglutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and linear polysaccharide such as hyaluronic acid and a salt thereof, and can form a non-transparent film.
[0032] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:
[0033] (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof;
[0034] (b) at least one linear polysaccharide; and (c) at least one filler.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention can form a non-transparent film, preferably a translucent or opaque film, and more preferably a translucent film.
[0036] The non-transparent film formed by the composition according to the present invention could brighten a keratin material such as skin.
[0037] The (b) linear polysaccharide can provide higher thickening effects than the (a) polyamino acid or a salt thereof, when being dissolved in water. For example, 1% by weight aqueous solution of the (b) linear polysaccharide can have a viscosity (at 20°C) of at least 10 times or more, preferably 50 times or more, and more preferably 100 times or more, than the viscosity of 1% by weight aqueous solution of the (a) poly amino acid or a salt thereof. The viscosity can be measured by a viscometer or rheometer, such as a Brookfield viscometer, under atmospheric pressure. This difference in viscosity can cause viscoelastic phase separation (Phys. Rev. Lett. 1993, 71, 3158.) to form a non-transparent film.
[0038] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for cosmetic treatments of skin such as skin care and skin makeup.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention can also provide additional effects.
[0040] The (a) polyamino acid, such as polyglutamic acid, or a salt thereof is water-absorbing and filmforming. Thus, the composition according to the present invention including the (a) polyamino acid or a salt thereof can form a film on a keratin material such as skin which can provide moisturizing effects.
[0041] The (b) linear polysaccharide, such as hyaluronic acid and a salt thereof, is also water-absorbing and film-forming. Thus, the composition according to the present invention including the (b) linear polysaccharide can form a film on a keratin material such as skin which can provide moisturizing effects.
[0042] The (c) filler can contribute to smoothness after application of the composition according to the present invention onto a keratin material such as skin.
[0043] Also, the (c) filler may provide mattifying effects if it is capable of absorbing oil or sebum.
[0044] If the composition according to the present invention further includes (d) branched polysaccharide, the composition according to the present invention can increase the non- transparency of a film fonned by the composition according to the present invention, depending on the type of the (c) filler.
[0045] If the composition according to the present invention further includes (e) water, the composition according to the present invention can also provide good hydration effects as well as refreshing feeling.
[0046] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0047] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0048] (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof;
[0049] (b) at least one linear polysaccharide; and
[0050] (c) at least one filler.
[0051] (Polyamino Acid or Salt Thereof)
[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof. A single type of polyamino acid or a salt thereof may be used, while two or more different types of polyamino acids or salts thereof may be used in combination.
[0053] It is preferable that the polyamino acid be selected from polyglutamic acids. Thus, the ingredient (a) in the composition according to the present invention is preferably at least one polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof.
[0054] The polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may have a chemical structure represented by the following chemical formula (1):
[0055] ROOC-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-[CO-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-]n-CO-CH2CH2-CH(- COOR)-NH2(1) in which R independently denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom such as sodium atom and potassium atom, or an ammonium group such as tetramethylammoium group and tetraethylammonium group, and n is an integer of 2 or more, preferably 4 or more, and more preferably 6 or more.
[0056] The polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof represented by the above chemical formula (1) may be referred to as y-poly glutamic acid or a salt thereof, because the carboxylic group at the y-position and the amino group at the a-position fonn a peptide bond.
[0057] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof be 1000 or more, and that the degree of polymerization be 8 or more (“n” in the above chemical formula (1) is 6 or more).
[0058] It may be more preferable that the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof be 100,000 or more, and that the polymerization degree be 770 or more (“n” in the above chemical formula (1) is 768 or more).
[0059] It may be even more preferable that the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof be 500,000 or more, and that the polymerization degree be 3840 or more (“n” in the above chemical formula (1) is 3838 or more).
[0060] There is no upper limit for the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof.
[0061] However, the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be 5000000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 38500 or less (“n” in the above chemical formula (1) is 38498 or less), and preferably the molecular weight the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be 3000000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 23080 or less (“n” in the above chemical formula (1) is 23078 or less). The glutamic acid that is a constituent amino acid of the poly glutamic acid or a salt thereof may be D-form, L-form or a racemic form. However, in consideration of the availability in the market, biocompatibility and biodegradability, the use of poly glutamic acid composed only of L-form glutamic acids or polyglutamic acid composed of a mixture of L- and D- form glutamic acids may be preferable. However, polyglutamic acid composed of D-form glutamic acids having the same effect and low degradability can also be used.
[0062] The production method of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is not particularly limited. For example, an organic synthesis method using a peptide synthesizer, an organic synthesis method by polymerization reaction of glutamate N-carboxylic anhydride, an organic synthesis by polymerization reaction of N-benzyloxycarbonyl glutamic anhydride. On the other hand, microorganisms belonging to the genus Bacillus having the ability to produce y-polyglutamic acid (particularly Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus anthracis, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus megaterium having the ability to produce y-polyglutamic acid) can also be used for fermentation methods for producing the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof.
[0063] As a medium used in the fermentation method, in addition to a natural medium composed of natural products such as shochu distillation waste liquid medium and soybean extract medium, any synthetic medium or any semi-synthetic medium constituted by any one of the following ingredients: carbon sources such as glucose, fructose, galactose, sucrose, maltose, mannose, lactose, glycerol, and starch; inorganic nitrogen sources such as ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate and ammonium hydrochloride; organic nitrogen sources such as glutamic acid or salts thereof, aspartic acid or salts thereof major inorganic salts such as sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, monopotassium phosphate, phosphorus and disodium phosphate; trace inorganic salts containing atoms such as iron, copper, zinc, cobalt, nickel, boron, manganese, molybdenum, tin, selenium, silicon, arsenic, vanadium, chromium, and fluorine; vitamins such as biotin, nicotinic acid amide, calcium pantothenate, thiamine, riboflavin and pyridoxine hydrochloride; organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and glycolic acid, and natural product extracts such as yeast extract, meat extract, potato extract, tomato extract, and soybean peptide, at any concentration may be used.
[0064] The culture conditions of the microorganism may be set in the range of from 20°C to 37°C with respect to the temperature, and may be further controlled during the microorganism growth process and polyglutamic acid production process. The pH may be set in the range of from 5.0 to 8.0, and may be further controlled during the microorganism growth process and polyglutamic acid production process.
[0065] As a method for extracting and purifying the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof from the culture solution after completion of the culture, known methods such as an acid precipitation method, a solvent precipitation method, and a membrane purification method can be arbitrarily selected.
[0066] It is preferable, as the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof, to use polyglutamic acid or an alkaline metal salt thereof such as sodium polyglutamate.
[0067] As the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof, a commercially available product may be used. As examples of the poly glutamic acid or a salt thereof, mention may be made of, Hyafactor™- PGA- HM sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. in China, and Bio-PGA Solution HE, HB, LB and LE, and Bio PGA Na powder, sold by Ichimaru Pharcos in Japan.
[0068] The amount of the (a) poly amino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) polyamino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Thus, the amount of the(a) polyamino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] (Linear Polysaccharide)
[0072] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one linear polysaccharide. A single type of linear polysaccharide may be used, but two or more different types of linear polysaccharides may be used in combination.
[0073] The term “linear” here means, when used for polysaccharides, that the polysaccharide has no side chain or branch containing at least one saccharide. In other words, each monosaccharide unit in the linear polysaccharide chain contains only one or two glycosidic bond(s).
[0074] The (b) linear polysaccharide may be selected from any conventional linear polysaccharides that are used in the field of cosmetics.
[0075] Examples of such linear polysaccharides are: gellan gum, alginic acid and a salt thereof such as sodium alginate, pectin, carrageenan such as kappa-carrageenan, linear dextrin, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.
[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the (b) linear polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof (referred to as “hyaluronic acid ingredient(s)”).
[0077] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Thus, the fibroblasts synthesize predominantly collagens, matrix glycoproteins other than collagens (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. The keratinocytes, for their part, synthesize predominantly sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.
[0078] Hyaluronic acid is present in the free state in the epidermis and in the dermis and is responsible for turgescence of the skin. This polysaccharide can in fact retain a large volume of water, corresponding to up to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of water bound in the tissue, and also in the mechanical properties of the skin and in wrinkle formation. Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.
[0079] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:
[0080] It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D- glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0081] The term "hyaluronic acid" comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating (3(1,4) and (1,3) glycosidic linkages, having a molecular weight (Mw) that may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight depends in large part on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation methods.
[0082] The term “hyaluronic acid” also comprises, in the context of the present invention, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid.
[0083] The term "hyaluronic acid derivatives" comprises, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid esters in particular those in which all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5% to 50%.
[0084] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101 -2127.
[0085] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid.
[0086] The term “hyaluronic acid derivatives” also comprises, in the context of the present invention, cationic hyaluronic acids. The cationic hyaluronic acids comprise at least one cationic moiety. The cationic moiety may be a trialkyl ammonium group such as N tClTps. The cationic moiety may include at least one hydroxyl group. The examples of the cationic group include -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.
[0087] Examples of the cationic hyaluronic acids include hydroxypropyl trimonium hyaluronate.
[0088] As hyaluronic acid salts or hyaluronic acid derivative salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof is not limited. The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of the (b) hyaluronic acid ingredient may be from 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably from 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably from 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.
[0090] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” may mean a weight average molecular weight.
[0091] The hyaluronic acid ingredient may in particular be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Centipro under the trade name HyActive™ (Mw: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Givaudan under the trade name Cristalhyal® (Mw: 1 to 1.4 MDa), by the company Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HA (Mw: 907,600 Da), by the company Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ FLAF (Mw: 74,600 Da), by the company Bioland under the trade name Oligo™ HA (Mw: 0.5 to 10.1 kDa), by the company Res Pharma under the trade name D-F actor® (Mw: 380 Da), or by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm under the trade name Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T) (MW: 1 ,000 kDa to 1,800 kDa)..
[0092] A single hyaluronic acid ingredient with a single molecular weight, or a combination of two or more hyaluronic acid ingredients with different molecular weights may be used as the hyaluronic acid ingredient.
[0093] It is preferable that the (b) linear polysaccharide be selected from hyaluronic acid salts, more preferably hyaluronic acid alkaline metal salts, and even more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0094] The amount of the (b) linear polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) linear polysaccharide(s) in tire composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Thus, the amount of the (b) linear polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Filler)
[0097] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one filler. A single type of filler may be used, while two or more different types of fillers may be used in combination.
[0098] The term “filler” should be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic or organic particle which is insoluble in a possible liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0099] The (c) filler(s) can be inorganic or organic, and can be of spherical or oblong shape, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Nonlimiting mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon®), of poly-P-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of polyurethane, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
[0100] In one embodiment, the (c) filler may be selected from inorganic fillers, preferably metal oxides, and more preferably silica.
[0101] The term “inorganic filler” here should be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic particle which is insoluble in a possible liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0102] The inorganic filler may comprise metal oxides, preferably silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide and a mixture thereof.
[0103] The inorganic filler that is suitable for the present invention may be, for example, a filler whose mean particle size is less than 100 pm, and especially between 1 and 50 pm, for example, between 4 to 20 pm.
[0104] The (c) filler may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
[0105] The term “hydrophilic” means that the (c) filler can be individually dispersed in water in such a manner that aggregates are not formed.
[0106] The term “hydrophobic” means that the inorganic filler can be individually dispersed in an oil in such a manner that aggregates are not formed.
[0107] The inorganic filler is, in general, intrinsically hydrophilic. For example, metal oxides such as silica are without any surface treatment is hydrophilic. In a preferable embodiment, the (c) filler is selected from hydrophobic inorganic fillers.
[0108] The hydrophobic inorganic filler may be porous or non-porous.
[0109] The hydrophobic inorganic filler may be or may not be capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin). It is preferable that the hydrophobic inorganic filler be capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
[0110] The hydrophobic inorganic filler may have an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml / 100 g or more, preferably 150 ml / 100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml / 100 g or more.
[0111] The amount of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the hydrophobic inorganic filler may be determined as follows.
[0112] The amount of the absorbed (and / or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed / adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point Wp, corresponding to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of a powder in order to obtain a homogeneous paste
[0113] An amount of m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and an oil (such as ester oil and silicone oil) is then added drop-wise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0114] Otherwise, the oil-absorbing capacity can be measured in accordance with JIS-K6217-4.
[0115] The hydrophobic inorganic filler may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0116] The inorganic core may comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of silica, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, kaolin, talc, and a mixture thereof.
[0117] The hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term “al ky 1” mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0119] Preferably, the hydrophobic inorganic filler is selected from hydrophobically-modified metal oxides, and more preferably from silicas, titanium oxides, zinc oxides and mixtures thereof. The hydrophobically-modified metal oxides may have at least one hydrophobic coating on a particle of metal oxide.
[0120] Preferably, the hydrophobic inorganic filler may be selected from hydrophobic silicas, in particular silica silylates.
[0121] The term “hydrophobic silica” is understood to mean any silica particle, the surface of which is treated to be hydrophobic. A hydrophobic silica or hydrophobic silica particle may have at least one hydrophobic coating on a particle of silica.
[0122] It is preferable that the hydrophobic inorganic filler be selected from hydrophobic silicas, more preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and even more preferably hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate.
[0123] The hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, may be based on silica aerogels which are porous materials obtained by replacing (by diying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0124] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
[0125] Aerogels are materials with high porosity. Herein, silica aerogels refer to a solid silica with a porous structure generally obtained by replacing medium included in wet silica gels with air by drying them while a solid network structure of the silica is maintained. The porosity represents the amount of air contained in an apparent volume of a material by a volume percentage. The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.
[0126] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface area per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1,500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1,200 m2 / g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and / or a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1,500 pm, preferably from 1 to 1,000 pm, more preferably from 1 to 100 pm, particularly from 1 to 30 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, further more preferably from 5 to 20 pm, and even further more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0127] The specific surface area per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The sizes of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0128] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can advantageously exhibit a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3to 0.10 g / cm3, and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0129] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the packed density, can be assessed according to the following protocol:
[0130] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this instance 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3and w in g).
[0131] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7 470 725.
[0132] Use will in particular be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups.
[0133] The hydrophobic inorganic fillers that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name Sunsphere® H33 and Sunsphere® H53 (oil uptake equal to 400 ml / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml / 100 g), and silica silylate sold under the name of VM-2270 (oil uptake equal to 1,040 ml / 100 g) by the company Dow.
[0134] It is preferable to use, as the hydrophobic inorganic filler, silica silylate sold under the name VM- 2270 by Dow, the particles of which exhibit an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0135] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be characterized in that the shape of each of the particles is spherical. Due to this spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can provide cosmetic compositions with good smoothness. The spherical degree of the hydrophobic silica aerogel may be determined by an average circularity.
[0136] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel particle may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more, and preferably 0.82 or more. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity of less than 1 , preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, still even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less. The “average circularity” may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the “average circularity” may be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2,000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1 ,000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0137] The “circularity” of each aerogel particle is a value determined by the following formula:
[0138] C = 4TTS / L2wherein C represents circularity, S represents the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image, and L represents the length of a periphery (perimeter) of the aerogel particle in the image. When the average circularity approaches 1 , the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.
[0139] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used as the hydrophobic inorganic filler according to the present invention is preferably of silylated silica type (INCI name: silica silylate). Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0140] It is preferable to use hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate as the inorganic hydrophobic oilabsorbing powder.
[0141] The hydrophobicity of the hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may be obtained by reacting a hydrophobicizing agent with a silanol group represented by the following formula existing on the surface of silica:
[0142] -Si-OH wherein the symbol represents the remaining three valences of the Si atom, thereby converting the silanol group into a group represented by the following formula:
[0143] (=Si-O-)(4-n)SiRn wherein n is an integer of 1 to 3; each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group; and two or more R may be the same or different from each other where n is 2 or more.
[0144] The hydrophobicizing agent may be a silylating agent. Therefore, according to one preferred embodiment, in the hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate, the silica particles may be modified at the surface by silylation. As examples of the silylating agents, mention may be made of a treating agent having one of the following formulae (1) to (3). formula (1):
[0145] RnSiX(4-n) wherein n represents an integer of 1 to 3; R represents a hydrocarbyl group; X represents a group (i.e. a leaving group) which can leave a molecule by cleavage of the bond with the Si atom in a reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group; each R may be different where n is 2 or more; and each X may be different where n is 2 or less. Formula (2): wherein R1represents an alkylene group; R2and R3independently represent a hydrocarbyl group; and R4and R5independently represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group.
[0146] Formula (3): wherein R6and R7independently represent a hydrocarbyl group; m represents an integer of 3 to 6; each R6may be different when there are two or more R6; and each R7may be different when there are two or more R7.
[0147] In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbyl group, preferably a hydrocarbyl group having a carbon number of 1 to 10, more preferably a hydrocarbyl group having a carbon number of 1 to 4, and especially preferably a methyl group.
[0148] As examples of the leaving group represented by X, mention may be made of halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine; alkoxy groups such as methoxy group and ethoxy group; groups represented by -NH-SiRs (wherein the definition of R is the same as that of R in formula (1)).
[0149] Specific examples of the hydrophobicizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include: chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.
[0150] Most preferably, chlorotrimethyl silane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, and / or hexamethyldisilazane may be used from the viewpoint of favorable reactivity.
[0151] The number of bonds of the Si atom with the silanol group on the silica framework varies depending on the number (4-n) of the leaving group X. For example, if n is 2, the following bonding will occur:
[0152] (=Si-O-)2SiR2
[0153] If n is 3, the following bonding will occur:
[0154] ^Si-O-SiRs In this manner, the silanol groups may be silylated, and thereby hy drophob ization may be carried out.
[0155] In the above formula (2), R1may be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having a carbon number of 2 to 8, and especially preferably an alkylene group having a carbon number of 2 to 3.
[0156] In the above formula (2), R2and R3are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the same preferable groups as those of R in the formula (1) can be mentioned. R4represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group, and when it is a hydrocarbyl group, the same preferable groups as those of R in the formula (1) can be mentioned. When a gel of silica is treated with the compound (cyclic silazane) represented by formula (2), cleavage of Si-N bonds will occur by the reaction with silanol groups, and therefore the following bonding will occur on the surface of the silica framework in the gel:
[0157] (=Si-O-)2SiR2R3
[0158] In this way, the silanol group may be silylated by the cyclic silazanes of the above formula (2) as well, and thereby hydrophobization may be carried out.
[0159] Specific examples of the cyclic silazanes represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane, and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.
[0160] In the above formula (3), R6and R7are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the same preferable groups as those of R in the formula (2) can be mentioned. The m in formula (3) represents an integer of 3 to 6. When a gel of silica is treated with the compound (cyclic siloxane) represented by the formula (3), the following bonding will occur on the surface of the silica framework in the gel:
[0161] (=Si-O-)2SiR6R7
[0162] In this way, silanol groups may be silylated by the cyclic siloxanes of the above formula (3) as well, and thereby hydrophobization may be carried out.
[0163] Specific examples of the cyclic siloxanes represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0164] The hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may be prepared by producing a sol of silica, turning the sol into a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobicizing agent, and dying the hydrophobicized silica.
[0165] The hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may have a specific surface area determined by BET method of 200 m2 / g or more, preferably 400 m2 / g or more, and more preferably 500 m2 / g or more, and may have a specific surface area determined by BET method of 1 ,200 m2 / g or less, preferably 1 ,000 m2 / g or less, and more preferably 800 m2 / g or less.
[0166] The hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may have a pore volume determined by BJH method of 1 ml / g or more, preferably 2 ml / g or more, and more preferably 3 ml / g or more, and may have a pore volume determined by BJH method of 10 ml / g or less, preferably 8 ml / g or less, and more preferably 7 ml / g or less. The hydrophobic silica aerogel of silica silylate may have a peak pore radius determined by BJH method of 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, and more preferably 12 nm or more, and may have a peak pore radius determined by BJH method of 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, and more preferably 30 nm or less.
[0167] The “pore volume determined by BJH method” refers to a pore volume which derives from a pore having a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm obtained by analyzing, by the BJH method (Barrett, E. P.; Joyner, L. G.; Halenda, P. P., J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)), the adsorption isotherm of the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as explained in the above “specific surface area determined by BET method”. The “peak pore radius determined by BJT method” refers to a value of a pore radius which gives a peak in a pore distribution curve (volume distribution curve) which is plotted taking on the vertical axis differentiation of the cumulative pore volume by the logarithm of the pore radius obtained by analyzing, by the BJH method, the adsorption isotherm of the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as above, and taking the pore radius on the horizontal axis.
[0168] The hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may have an average particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, and more preferably 2 pm or more, and may have an average particle size by image analysis method of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, and more preferably 15 pm or less.
[0169] The “average particle size” here can be measured by an image analysis method. Specifically, the value of “average particle size” is an arithmetic mean of equivalent circle diameters which can be obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of, for example, no less than 2,000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1 ,000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The “equivalent circle diameter” of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.
[0170] Preferably, the hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate may have an oil-absorbing capacity, which can be measured at the wet point, as explained above, of 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably from 5 ml / g or more, and may have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, of 12 ml / g or less, preferably 10 ml / g or less, more preferably 8 ml / g or less, and most preferably 7 ml / g or less.
[0171] It is preferable that the (c) filler, in particular hydrophobic inorganic filler, be selected from hydrophobically-modified metal oxides, more preferably selected from hydrophobic silicas, and even more preferably silica silylates.
[0172] The amount of the (c) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] Thus, the amount of the (c) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Branched Polysaccharide)
[0175] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one branched polysaccharide. If two or more branched polysaccharides are used, they may be the same or different.
[0176] The term “branched” here means, when used for polysaccharides, that the polysaccharide has at least one side chain or branch containing at least one saccharide.
[0177] The (d) branched polysaccharide may be selected from any conventional branched polysaccharides that are used in the field of cosmetics.
[0178] The (d) branched polysaccharide can be present in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention comprises water. The (d) branched polysaccharide can function as a hydrophilic thickener which can thicken the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0179] In one embodiment, the (d) branched polysaccharide may be heteropolysaccharide. The term “heteropolysaccharide” here means a polysaccharide consisting of two or more kinds of monosaccharides. In one embodiment, the (d) branched polysaccharide is selected from heteropolysaccharides consisting of at least two constituents selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid.
[0180] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one branched polysaccharide selected from galactomannans.
[0181] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one branched polysaccharide selected from xanthan gum, tamarind gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, branched dextrin, and succinoglycan.
[0182] In a particular embodiment, the (d) branched polysaccharide may be selected from locust bean gum and xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is preferable.
[0183] Xanthan gum is a branched heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is composed of a main chain of -D-glucoses connected in 3(1,4) manner. One glucose molecule out of two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of a-D-mannose, of a p-D-glucuronic acid and of a terminal p- D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to pH 1). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post-fermentation conditions and the purification stages. These groups can be neutralized in the commercial products with Na+, K+or Ca2+ions. The neutralized fonn can be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis with an acid solution.
[0184] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 x 106and 5 x 107and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type, at 60 revolutions per minute). A typical structure of xanthan gum is as shown below.
[0185] The amount of (d) branched polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] On the other hand, the amount of (d) branched polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] The amount of (d) branched polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0188] (Water)
[0189] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.
[0190] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] On the other hand, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 98% by weight or less, and more preferably 97% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] Thus, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0193] (Other Optional Ingredients)
[0194] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other optional ingredients, known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, e.g., silicones; sequestering agents or chelating agents; preserving agents and co-preserving agents; vitamins or provitamins, fragrances; plant extracts; and so on.
[0195] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Thus, the organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
[0196] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0197] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0198] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0199] The composition according to the present invention may include a limited amount of oil(s) such as hydrocarbon oils.
[0200] The amount of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no oil.
[0201] The composition according to the present invention may include a limited amount of surfactants) such as polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
[0202] The amount of surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no surfactant.
[0203] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 5% by weight of polyglutamic acid or sodium polyglutamate, as the ingredient (a); from 0.01% to 5% by weight of hyaluronic acid salts, as the ingredient (b); and from 0.01% to 5% by weight of inorganic filler, as the ingredient (c).
[0204] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.05% to 3% by weight of sodium polyglutamate, as the ingredient (a); from 0.05% to 3% by weight of sodium hyaluronate, as the ingredient (b); and from 0.05% to 3% by weight of hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic metal oxides, as the ingredient (c). According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight of sodium polyglutamate, as the ingredient (a); from 0.1% to 1% by weight of sodium hyaluronate, as the ingredient (b); and from 0.1% to 1% by weight of hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic silica, as the ingredient (c).
[0205] (Preparation)
[0206] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0207] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer.
[0208] (Form)
[0209] The composition according to the present invention may be in various forms.
[0210] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid such as a liquid or gel at an ambient temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 101325 Pa).
[0211] (pH)
[0212] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5, and more preferably less than 6.0.
[0213] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3.0 or more, preferably 3.5 or more, and more preferably 4.0 or more.
[0214] For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to less than 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to less than 6.0.
[0215] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0216] [Process, Film and Use]
[0217] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin.
[0218] The composition according to the present invention is suitable as a skin care cosmetic composition. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used for brightening and / or moisturizing the skin.
[0219] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a leave-on type. In other words, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used, on a keratin material such as skin, without being rinsing off. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is not a cleansing composition.
[0220] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
[0221] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic beautifying method for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratin material such as skin, preferably a non-therapeutic beautifying method for caring for the skin.
[0222] It is preferable that the cosmetic process according to the present invention is not a cleansing process. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing off the composition according to the present invention from the keratin material such as skin.
[0223] The present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising: applying onto a keratin material such as skin, the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition.
[0224] The present invention may also relate to a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:
[0225] (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof;
[0226] (b) at least one linear polysaccharide; and
[0227] (c) at least one filler.
[0228] The present invention may also relate to a use of (c) at least one filler in a composition comprising:
[0229] (a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof; and
[0230] (b) at least one linear polysaccharide in order to make the composition capable of forming a non-transparent film, preferably a translucent or opaque film, and more preferably a translucent film.
[0231] The above explanations regarding the (a) polyamino acid or a salt thereof, the (b) linear polysaccharide, and the (c) filler for the composition according to the present invention, can apply to those in the above film or use.
[0232] EXAMPLES
[0233] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0234] Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0235] [Preparations]
[0236] The following compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 . The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials. The symbols (a)-(e) in Table 1 correspond to the ingredients (a)-(e) in the claims. Table 1
[0237] *1 : Sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the commercial name of Hyafactor™-PGA Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA-HM)
[0238] *2: Sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the commercial name ofHybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T)
[0239] [Evaluation]
[0240] (Film Transparency)
[0241] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1 -2 was casted on a glass substrate and dried at room temperature (25 °C) to prepare a film. The transparency of the prepared film was visually evaluated in accordance with the following criteria wherein the transparency of the film prepared from the composition according to Example 1 was set as a reference or standard.
[0242] 5 : Not transparent (very non-transparent)
[0243] 4: Less transparent than reference (non-transparent)
[0244] 3: Reference (non-transparent)
[0245] 2: More transparent than reference (not very transparent)
[0246] 1 : Highly transparent (very transparent)
[0247] The results are shown in Table 1 .
[0248] (Summary)
[0249] The compositions according to Examples 1 -4 were able to prepare a film which was not transparent (for example, the film was translucent) and could brighten a keratin material such as skin.
[0250] The comparison of Examples 1 and 2 demonstrates that the use of a hydrophobic filler (silica silylate) in the composition can further reduce the transparency of the film.
[0251] The comparison of Examples 1 and 3 demonstrates that the use of a polysaccharide (xanthan gum) in the composition can further reduce the transparency of the film.
[0252] Comparative Examples 1 and 2 demonstrate that a composition including only polyglutamic acid (salt) or hyaluronic acid (salt) can provide a very transparent film which could not brighten a keratin material such as skin.
Claims
CLAIMS1 . A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one polyamino acid or a salt thereof;(b) at least one linear polysaccharide; and(c) at least one filler.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the viscosity of a 1% by weight aqueous solution of the (b) linear polysaccharide is at least 10 times higher than the viscosity of a 1 % by weight aqueous solution of the (a) poly amino acid or a salt thereof.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyamino acid is selected from polyglutamic acids.
4. The composition according to any one of Claim s 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) polyamino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition ranges from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) linear polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) linear polysaccharide is selected from hyaluronic acid salts, preferably hyaluronic acid alkaline metal salts, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) linear polysaccharide(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) filler is selected from inorganic fillers, preferably metal oxides, and more preferably silicas.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) filler is selected from hydrophobic inorganic fillers, preferably hydrophobically-modified metal oxides, and more preferably hydrophobically-modified silicas, zinc oxides, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) filler is selected from hydrophobic silicas, preferably from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and more preferably from hydrophobic aerogel particles of silica silylate.11 . The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (c) filler(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , wherein the composition furthercomprises (d) at least one branched polysaccharide.
13. The composition according to Claim 12. wherein the (d) branched polysaccharide is selected from heteropolysaccharides consisting of at least two constituents selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid, preferably selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, branched dextrin, succinoglycan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably locust bean gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof.
14. The composition according to Claim 12 or 13, wherein the amount of the (d) branched polysaccharide(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 onto the keratin material.
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