Glossy, solid, anhydrous, transfer-free composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate, and additionally at least one 2nd gelling agent and / or fatty-phase structuring agent distinct from the polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate, - at least one volatile oil, and - optionally also at least one colourant.

Description

[0001] Glossy, non-transferable, solid, anhydrous composition

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to solid, shiny, non-transfer anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin or lips.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] From previous years, we know of keratin-based materials in skincare and / or makeup products that offer shine and staying power, but which tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) they come into contact with (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks in particular, there is a recurring demand from consumers for a very glossy lip product with very long-lasting wear, or even one that transfers very little or not at all upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer"), and especially for solid lip products in stick or pourable form.

[0006] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such solid products on the market in stick or poured form that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0007] Solid products, especially in stick form, have the advantage of providing intense color with a longer-lasting hold than glosses, but are neither "transfer-proof" nor as shiny as a gloss; sticks described as "long-lasting" but not "transfer-proof" generally have satin rather than shiny films, and "transfer-proof" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying for the lips.

[0008] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of products that require two steps to apply (so-called 'double-step' products): a 1 ère A long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second èmeA clear, ultra-glossy layer applied over the first ('top coat') provides shine and a non-sticky finish, and transfers without leaving any trace or colored residue. Similarly, for other applications (blush, eyeshadow, etc.), there are no solid anhydrous products (in solid form or poured into a pot / pan) with a satin to glossy finish that are transfer-proof.

[0009] We are therefore looking for new solid anhydrous compositions, in particular in stick or poured pot / pot form, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials (skin, lips), in a single step, with very good shine and / or hold-up properties, which do not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, and / or improved non-transfer properties.

[0010] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0011] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one alkylcellulose-type polymer and one lipophilic polyamide-type polymer, in a solid anhydrous composition comprising at least one volatile oil and optionally in addition one or more silicone-based non-volatile oils, preferably phenylated, enabling the production of a glossy to very glossy ('vinyl') film with very long-lasting and non-transfer properties.

[0012] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition, even with high levels of non-volatile oils (for example, a total content greater than 5%, or even a content ranging from 20% to 65% of non-volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0013] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0015] - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0016] - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and in addition at least one 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type,

[0017] - at least one volatile oil, and optionally also at least one coloring agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0018] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0019] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0020] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, including skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips. The keratinous materials to which the compositions of the invention are applied are healthy keratinous materials, that is, materials free from disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (subjects who are not healthy, who suffer from a pathology).

[0021] The term "anhydrous" refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0022] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0023] The composition may be in the form of a stick or a poured composition in a pot / cup or packaged in a cup.

[0024] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, particularly the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in shape, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick of a composition intended for application to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 40 to 120 Gf.

[0025] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-forming process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular, when the hardness is less than 100Gf, the stick-forming process known as "back-fill," which consists of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred to a forming process that involves pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0026] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties. They also have good durability.

[0027] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0028] Brilliance

[0029] The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, one can, in particular, take a photograph of lips made up with the composition of the invention and visually evaluate the gloss of the deposited film. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, even 'vinyl', film.

[0030] Non-transfer

[0031] According to a first (visual) evaluation method, the non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth...) is observed; compositions with good resistance to pressure are thus sought.

[0032] Film adhesion and sharpness of lip contours

[0033] The film's hold on the lips refers to the makeup's durability over time, and to the film's evenness and adhesion, without migration into the fine lines around the lips, resulting in a clean and precise lip contour. This hold can be assessed over time by taking photographs, for example, with a Visia CR camera to photograph the mouth from the front with eyes closed. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0034] The first objective therefore concerns a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0035] - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0036] - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and in addition at least one 2 ndgelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type,

[0037] - at least one volatile oil, and possibly also at least one coloring matter.

[0038] Alkylcellulose

[0039] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one alkylcellulose.

[0040] Among the alkylcelluloses, we can mention methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, preferably ethylcelluloses.

[0041] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0042] The terms 'ethylcellulose film-forming polymer', 'ethylcellulose polymer', and 'ethylcellulose' will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of the description.

[0043] The term 'film-forming polymer' refers to a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, particularly on the skin and / or lips.

[0044] By 'ethylcellulose polymer' according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0045] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain of p-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. In a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of ethoxy substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0046] One can refer in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0047] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0048] The ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%; the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc.; and the ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc.

[0049] This alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is, or advantageously pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0050] According to a first method, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as is (in powder form). For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0051] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters possibly hydroxylated, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0052] The alkylcellulose content, particularly ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, greater than or equal to 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition will be used.

[0053] According to a particular method, the content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, shall range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15%, by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0055] Polyamides are linear polymers based on dicarboxylic acids and diamines. By 'lipophilic', we mean that the polycondensate is not soluble in water, particularly at 25°C.

[0056] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0057] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers possessing different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0058] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs, and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0059] Throughout the rest of the description, the terms 'polyamide polymer', 'polyamide polycondensate', 'lipophilic polyamide polycondensate', 'polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate', and 'polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer' are used interchangeably. The polyamide-type polycondensate usable as an oil-phase gelling agent in the composition of the invention is preferably selected from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0060] In particular, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group or an -ORi group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

[0061] According to a first mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) with an amide termination in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5. According to a second mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide with an ester termination of formula (I) in which X represents a -OR1 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22, preferably from C16 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5.

[0062] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylene diamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18.

[0063] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel. These mixtures are also sold by the company CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C.Its average molecular mass by weight is preferably 6000, even more preferably 4000.

[0064] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0065] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0066] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0067] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a diester.

[0068] An example of a mixture of lipophilic gelling agents from among those described above is a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides with molecular weights of approximately 4,500 to 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0069] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Structured fatty phase

[0071] The "fat phase" of the composition includes, in particular, oils and one or more gelling agents and / or fat phase structuring agents distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type.

[0072] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fat, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. "Gelding and / or fat-phase structuring agent" means a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, selected in particular from lipophilic gelling agents, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] volatile oil

[0074] The composition of the invention includes in particular at least one volatile oil.

[0075] By "oil" we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

[0076] By "volatile oil" we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol which follows 20mg of the oil to be studied is weighed on a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0077] This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber controlled at 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation: [Math.1]

[0078] % mtïssf lost 100

[0079] With m tx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (t15min, t30min or t60min) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0080] The volatile oil(s) are chosen in particular from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

[0081] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0082] According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The volatile oil can notably be chosen from silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0085] According to a particular mode, the volatile oil or oils of the composition of the invention are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from: Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Examples of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes include Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0087] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The volatile linear alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2. More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14) mixture.

[0089] Examples include alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:

[0090] - C9-C14, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0091] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0092] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and their mixtures.

[0093] Examples of possibly hydroxylated esters include esters preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of C2-C6 monoalcohols and C3-C6 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0094] As examples of Cs-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate can be cited in particular.

[0095] Examples of ethers, particularly monoethers, include ethers with a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example such as dipentylether.

[0096] Examples of dialkoxymethane include those with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, and dibutoxymethane. These compounds are marketed by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively.

[0097] Examples of carbonates include those with 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably also Cg-Ci4 linear alkanes. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile oil(s), in particular the hydrocarbon volatile oil(s), are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Non-volatile oils

[0100] According to the invention, "non-volatile oil" means a liquid that does not meet the definition of volatile oil described above.

[0101] These non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are not fat-phase gelling agents; they do not allow the fat phase to solidify or gel.

[0102] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from among saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C8-C18, esters of fatty acids in C8-C10 and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0103] As liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, octyldodecanol can preferably be mentioned.

[0104] Examples of vegetable oils include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0105] Among the ester oils, we can notably mention:

[0106] - esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate, which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohol (e.g., coconut), caprylic acid, and capric acid,

[0107] - fatty acid esters, in particular those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0108] - synthetic esters such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate of 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0109] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0110] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0111] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0112] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids;

[0113] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; one can mention in particular the dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (ex: Lusplan™);

[0114] - esters of amino acid derivatives; examples include Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g., Eldew®); polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0115] - and their mixtures.

[0116] The expert will be able to adjust the percentage of additional oil(s) according to the percentages of polymers used to obtain the desired performance.

[0117] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters in C8-C18, fatty acid and propylene glycol esters, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-C26 fatty alcohol such as octyldodecanol.

[0118] As examples of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, one can cite in particular the isodecanol and neopentanoic acid ester, otherwise known as isodecyl neopentanoate such as that marketed under the name DU B VCI by Stearinerie Dubois.

[0119] Examples of C8-C18 fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters include Coco-Caprylate / Caprate.

[0120] As examples of C8-C10 fatty acid esters and propylene glycol, one can cite in particular the caprylic / capric saturated fatty acid ester derived from coconut / palm kernel oil and propylene glycol, with the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, such as the product marketed under the name MIGLYOL® 840.

[0121] Examples of triglycerides include triheptanoin, a triglyceride consisting of a glycerol residue esterified by three heptanoic acid residues, such as the product MIGL YOL® TC7.

[0122] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0123] Advantageously, liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0124] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol comprises 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0125] As particular examples of liquid fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred ingredients in the composition of the invention, one may mention in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0126] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0127] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention will comprise at least octyldodecanol.

[0128] The total content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] In a particular manner, the composition comprises at least one liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, in a concentration of 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 15% to 70%, and preferably 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another particular manner, octyldodecanol is present in a concentration of 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, octyldodecanol shall constitute more than 50% by weight of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in the oil phase, in particular at least 75%, or even at least 90% by weight of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in the oil phase; OR The composition of the invention comprises octyldodecanol and less than 10% by weight of other non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight of other non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises octyldodecanol and is devoid of other non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0131] 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent(s)

[0132] The composition of the invention further comprises at least one 2 nd distinct fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type.

[0133] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0134] The terms "fat-phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" refer to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents can be mineral and / or organic.

[0135] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention include, in particular, solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25°C.

[0136] These structuring agents are notably chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, particularly from 55 to 80°C.

[0138] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0139] Thus, according to a particular method, the 2 or 2 nd gelling agent(s) and / or fat-phase structuring agent(s) distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type present in the solid composition of the invention, is (are) chosen from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Modified clays are a notable example of "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents." Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected from among quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines. These clays include natural or synthetic bentonites, particularly hectorites and montmorillonites. Hectorites are preferred. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, the ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite, in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0141] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0142] Examples of "organic lipophilic gelling agents" usable in the solid composition of the invention include: esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), preferably unbranched, such as dextrin palmitate and myristate, and mixtures thereof, notably those marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA by Chiba Flour Milling Co; esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), particularly C18-C24 esters, especially glycerol behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed, for example, under the name NOMCORT HK-P); hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HSA;sorbitan oleate, glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto, associative polymers derived from castor oil, isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil, olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), gelling agents with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed for example under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, sold for example under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE);Sorbitan olivate, marketed for example under the name OLIVEM 900, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent of the hydroxystearic acid type. The hydroxystearic acid content in the composition may range, in particular, from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, including hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, can also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0144] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point ranging from 65 to 75°C.

[0145] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Suitable "fatty alcohols" for the invention include, in particular, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0147] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0149] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18%, and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. "Pasty fats" usable as fat-phase structuring agents are defined as fats with a reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, both a liquid and a solid fraction.

[0151] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0152] In a particular way, the 2 ndA separate gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent(s) of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is / are selected from waxes. Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more waxes, and optionally also an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent such as hydroxystearic acid.

[0153] According to this embodiment, the total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The one or both nd gelling agent(s) and / or fat phase structuring agent(s) distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] The total content of gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents, including the content of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, will generally range from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, especially from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] A person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the percentage according to the nature of the gelling and / or structuring agents and the desired hardness of the composition.

[0157] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated (optional) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the gloss and non-transfer of the film applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention shall further comprise one or more non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated.

[0158] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, at C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] The term 'phenylated silicone oil' according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0161] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition includes at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0162] By "dimethicone fragment" we mean a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0163] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0164] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0165] Preferably, said oil does not include a C2-C3 alkene oxide group or a glycerol group.

[0166] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils containing a dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0167] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0168] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0169] For example, we can use Wacker's Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000, and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 and marketed by the Wacker company.

[0170] When the formulation includes a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, and in order to improve gloss and transfer resistance, it is advantageous to use, as other ingredients in the formulation, ingredients that are immiscible with the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil. Those skilled in the art can thus determine, through standard miscibility / immiscibility tests with the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, the ingredients best suited to this embodiment with a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil.

[0171] To do this, we observe a possible phase separation effect of a binary mixture consisting of each of the two compounds (the ingredient to be tested and the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil). For this purpose, the mixture of equal parts of the two compounds is heated to 80°C for 15 minutes with stirring. The mixture is then transferred to a clear glass bottle. The mixture is observed at T0 and then again after 24 hours of rest:

[0172] We only retain the ingredients for which we observe a phase separation effect with the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil.

[0173] The composition may further include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenyl silicone oils not containing dimethicone fragments, non-phenyl silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils not containing a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. One example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula (III) is as follows:

[0175] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0176] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0177] As an example of a combination of phenyl silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0178] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0179] Examples of non-phenylated silicone-based non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones, preferably containing at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt are particularly noteworthy, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0180] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients in the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0181] According to a particular method, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall range in particular from 15 to 50% by weight, in particular from 20 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Brightening oils

[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected especially from: esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include tridecyl trimellilate (Liponate TDTM); hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate (S Face IS 1005p), polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0184] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0185] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity);

[0186] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0187] - Octyldodecanol and Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0188] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0189] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and C15-19 Alkane and Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0190] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0191] - and their mixtures,

[0192] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can mention in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (ex: Eldew®);

[0193] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSI NATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0194] - oils of vegetable origin comprising triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and their mixtures, - and their mixtures.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the non-transfer of the film applied to keratinous materials, the solid composition of the invention shall further comprise a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and siliconeacrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0196] Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0197] In a particular way, the silicone polymer is a silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0198] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” here refers to any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0199] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0200] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0201] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0202] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0203] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0204] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0205] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0206] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0207] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0208] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0209] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula III with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0210] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0211] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0212] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a linear C9-C16 alkane or a mixture of linear C9-C16 alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C9-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0213] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention will be present in the solid composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of active polymer material (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of active polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0215] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0216] The "silicone-acrylate polymers" or "siliconized acrylate polymers" can be chosen from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif.

[0217] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0218] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0219] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure exhibiting high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0220] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0221] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0222] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s) and

[0223] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0224] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0225] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0226] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0227] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention can be dimethicone.

[0228] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0229] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2cst).

[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0231] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer which does not comprise a dendrimer motif.

[0232] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0233] According to the present invention, by "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof. The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained by conventional polymerization and grafting methods, for example, by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example, on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000.The copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g., methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecanes). Examples include polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the name KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL.

[0235] ACRYLATE / DIMETH ICON METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER), or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0236] According to a particular and preferred method, copolymers of polydimethylysiloxane and one or more monomers chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE.

[0237] According to a particular and preferred mode, the solid composition of the invention shall comprise a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0238] Other ingredients

[0239] The solid composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from additional lipophilic polymers, C2-C5 monoalcohols, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, coloring materials, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0240] According to a particular method, the solid compositions of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0241] According to another particular mode, the solid composition of the invention will not comprise C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0242] The total content of C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), when present in the solid composition of the invention, may range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular: polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite R1100 CG), sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched esters of dextrin, such as dextrin isostearate, plant resins, such as candelilla resin, silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise an additional lipophilic polymer selected from sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0244] The total content of additional lipophilic polymers, when present in the solid composition of the invention, may range from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Coloring agents

[0246] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0247] The term "coloring material" in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0248] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0249] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from among pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and their mixtures.

[0250] The said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0251] These coloring materials, especially when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0252] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0253] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0254] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0255] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0256] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0257] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0259] In a particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 ndgelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, and furthermore at least one colouring material.

[0260] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0261] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0262] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0263] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0264] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0265] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 nd distinct oil-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and furthermore at least one colouring material.

[0266] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, in particular selected from C9-C14 linear alkanes, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0267] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0268] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0269] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least ethanol, and in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0270] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one additional lipophilic polymer, in particular selected from sugar esters, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0271] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, in particular selected from C9-C14 linear alkanes, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) in which

[0272] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0273] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0274] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least one sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), and in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0275] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0276] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, in particular selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0277] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0278] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 ndgelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0279] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0280] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0281] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0282] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0283] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0284] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0285] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 nd distinct fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0286] In another particular embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, at least one volatile oil, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, and at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil not comprising a dimethicone fragment, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0287] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, in particular selected from C9-C14 linear alkanes, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) in which

[0288] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0289] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0290] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0291] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, at least ethanol, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0292] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, at least one 2 nda separate fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent of said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes, at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, in particular selected from C9-C14 linear alkanes, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0293] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0294] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0295] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil not comprising a dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (III) at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer that is the reaction product

[0296] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0297] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, at least ethanol, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.According to the particular modes described above, the total contents of each of the ingredients, when present in the solid composition of the invention, and in relation to the total weight of said composition, shall advantageously be: from 1 to 10% by weight of alkylcellulose active material, preferably ethylcellulose, from 2 to 10% by weight of lipophilic polycondensate active material of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, from 3 to 16% by weight of at least one 2. ndgelling and / or fat phase structuring agent separate from said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, 10 to 20% by weight of volatile oil(s), 20 to 40% by weight of phenylated silicone non-volatile oil(s), 1 to 15% by weight of silicone-polyurethane polymer active material, 1 to 20% by weight of additional lipophilic polymer, 1 to 20% by weight of C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), and 2 to 10% by weight of coloring material(s).

[0298] In these different embodiments, the total content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0299] GALENIQUE

[0300] The composition of the invention is a solid anhydrous composition.

[0301] Thus, according to another particular mode of the invention, the composition is a solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, a concealer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

[0302] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0303] COSMETIC PROCESS The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0304] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0305] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0306] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] EXAMPLES

[0308] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0309] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols.

[0310] Glossy appearance

[0311] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0312] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0313] They are assigned ratings according to their level of brightness, with the categories determined using the solid commercial compositions below as references:

[0314] - Very glossy or 'Vinyl': YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick (Mintel ID: 11690232), Glossy: Dior Addict Hydrating Shine Lipstick (Mintel ID: 11718154)

[0315] Satin: Rouge Dior satin finish - Couture Colour Lipstick (Mintel ID: 11440790), and Matte: Rouge Dior velvet finish or Rouge Dior Forever (transfer-proof) - Intense Couture Color Transfer-Proof Lipstick (Mintel ID: 11188444).

[0316] Non-transfer aspect

[0317] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated for their non-transfer properties according to the following protocol. This involves applying three layers of the composition to each lip and, after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be assessed.

[0318] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and ratings are assigned to them.

[0319] No transfer: no transfer

[0320] Low transfer: light transfer

[0321] Transfer: important transfer

[0322] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0323] The compositions of the invention also make it possible to obtain a makeup film with good long-lasting wear, without migration around the lips, for a precise and defined lip contour. The wear can be evaluated by a panel of experts, according to the following protocol:

[0324] Each formula is applied to half of the lips, the formula of the invention on the left side for example and the comparative formula on the right side;

[0325] Photos of the lips on which the formulas were applied were taken at T immediately after application, at T+ 15min, T+2h, and T+4h;

[0326] Experts evaluated the film's durability and the gloss of the tested compositions.

[0327] Good hold, as desired for the compositions of the invention, corresponds to maintaining good adhesion of the film over time, without migration into the fine lines around the lips, and with a precise and defined lip contour. Conversely, poor or degraded hold corresponds to a decrease in the film's adhesion over time and / or migration into the fine lines around the lips, leading to a blurred lip contour.

[0328] According to the invention, we are looking for compositions that allow us to obtain a more satiny film than the reference Rouge Dior satin finish- Couture Colour Lipstick, or even glossy compositions like the reference Dior Addict Hydrating Gloss Lipstick- Dior addict shine lipstick or very glossy like the reference YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the reference (non-transfer but matte reference).

[0329] 2 Solid lipsticks for the lips according to the invention Solid lipsticks, comprising waxes such as 2 nd The following structural elements were formulated:

[0330] Composition 1 (invention): without sucrose acetate isobutyrate,

[0331] Composition 2 (invention): with sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0332] Composition 3 (invention): with sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), hydroxystearic acid (Casid-HSA) and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone (KF56A).

[0333] Percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0334] [Table 1]

[0335] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure: the ethylcellulose gel is prepared by adding the powder (ethylcellulose) to the octyldodecanol and heating to 90-95°C with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained; the waxes and gelling agents are heated to 90-95°C; the pigments previously ground in the C9-12 alkane are then added, with stirring and under a ventilated hood; and the phenyl silicone(s) are then added.

[0336] The prepared compositions are then poured directly into the packaging and left to cool at ambient temperature. The resulting compositions are solid lip products with a hardness ranging from 40Gf to 120Gf.

[0337] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide makeup, evaluated according to the protocol of example 1, as being glossy and non-transferable, with even better non-transfer performance for compositions 2 (with Casid HSA) and 3 (with Casid HSA and KF-56).

[0338] These results show that the presence of ethylcellulose, combined with polyamide-8, allows for good gloss and transfer-proof properties in the resulting lip products, with transfer-proof performance further improved in the presence of an adhesion agent such as sucrose acetate isobutyrate (composition 2), or an additional structuring agent such as hydroxystearic acid and a 2 nde phenylated silicone oil (composition 3).

[0339] Example 3: Effect of the combination according to the invention 3-1 Examples without polyamide-8 in a composition with waxes

[0340] The effect of combining ethylcellulose and polyamide-8 on the gloss and non-transfer properties in solid compositions structured by waxes as illustrated in composition 2 according to the invention, was compared to a composition 4 similar to composition 2, but in which polyamide-8 was replaced by another polymer (dextrin isostearate).

[0341] [Table 2]

[0342] Composition 4 (comparative) is prepared according to the protocol of the previous example.

[0343] The resulting solid composition is less hard than composition 2.

[0344] It is evaluated for its gloss and non-transfer properties compared to composition 2 (invention).

[0345] The film obtained with composition 4 (comparative) is bright but the non-transfer property is altered (low-transfer).

[0346] These results show that, in the absence of polyamide-8 (replaced in comparative composition 4 by another dextrin isostearate type polymer), the composition does not have the expected non-transfer properties.

[0347] These results therefore show that ethylcellulose in association with polyamide-8, in a solid composition structured by waxes, makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0348] 3-2 Example with polyamide-8 but without waxes (2 nd (structuring)

[0349] The effect of combining ethylcellulose and polyamide-8 on gloss and non-transfer properties in solid compositions not comprising 2 nd structuring agent (here waxes, the polyamide-8 content having therefore been increased to compensate for the absence of waxes) was evaluated.

[0350] [Table 3]

[0351] Composition 5 (comparative) is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0352] Polyamide-8 is heated to 90-95°C;

[0353] Ethylcellulose gel is prepared by sprinkling ethylcellulose into octyldodecanol under stirring at 90-95°C;

[0354] The ethylcellulose gel thus prepared is added to polyamide-8;

[0355] Cetiol C5C is added and allowed to homogenize;

[0356] The bentone gel is added and the stirring speed is increased; it is checked that no clumps of gel remain; The pigments, previously ground in the C9-C12 alkanes, are then added;

[0357] The Belsil PDM-1000 is then added and left to homogenize for 5 minutes;

[0358] The resulting composition is poured directly into the mechanisms and left to solidify at room temperature. The composition is solid, but upon application, while it is indeed glossy, it lacks the desired non-transfer properties.

[0359] These results show that, in the absence of a 2 nd as a structuring agent for the oil phase (waxes in this example), the composition does not have the expected non-transfer properties.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one alkylcellulose, preferably one ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and in addition at least one 2 nd gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - at least one volatile oil, and possibly also at least one coloring matter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the 2 nd gelling agent(s) and / or fat-phase structuring agent(s) distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is (are) selected from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the 2 nd gelling agent(s) and / or fat phase structuring agent(s) distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type is (are) selected from waxes.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C8-C18, esters of fatty acids in C8-C10 and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is present in the composition in a total content of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15%, preferably again 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from polyamides with a termination ester, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof; in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a hydrogenated linoleic acid dimer and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, Cs-Ci6 branched esters, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the volatile oil(s), in particular the hydrocarbon volatile oil(s), are present in the composition in a total content of 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the 2 nd gelling and / or fat phase structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises a silicone polymer selected from silicone polymers- polyurethane and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably a silicone-polyurethane polymer, in particular the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile silicone, phenylated or non-phenylated oils.

13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprises at least one dimethicone fragment and is in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably is a phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, preferably trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises one or more C2-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is a solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and in particular a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, a concealer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

16. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.

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