Glossy anhydrous non-transfer liquid composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one polyamide lipophilic polycondensate, and - at least one volatile oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and - optionally also at least one dyestuff.

Description

[0001] Glossy, non-transferable, anhydrous liquid composition

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to shiny, non-transferable liquid anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin or lips.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] Previous works in skincare and / or makeup formulations have produced keratin-based products with shine and staying power, but these products tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) they come into contact with (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks, in particular, there is a recurring demand from consumers for a very glossy lip product with exceptional long-lasting wear, or even one that transfers very little or not at all upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer"), especially fluid to liquid lip products.

[0006] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0007] Liquid products such as lip glosses are characterized by a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the drawback of providing a thin, sheer layer of color with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and considerable transfer. Solid products, particularly sticks, offer intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or transfer-proof properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss. Sticks marketed as long-lasting but not transfer-proof generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), while transfer-proof sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0008] Some products claim to maintain shine over time and long-lasting wear, but they generally have a sticky feel, possibly tightness, transfer when pressure is applied and / or when rubbing, and sometimes are difficult to remove.

[0009] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of products that require two steps to apply (so-called 'double-step' products): a 1 ère A long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second ème an ultra-glossy transparent layer applied over the first ('top coat') which provides shine and is non-sticky, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or coloured residue.

[0010] Similarly for the eyes, there are no non-transfer and non-sticky glittery eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glittery liners or mascaras.

[0011] We are therefore looking for new skincare and / or makeup formulations for keratinous materials (including skin, lips, and eyelashes), in a single step, offering excellent shine and / or long-lasting wear, that do not settle into fine lines and wrinkles, and / or improved transfer-proof properties. We are also seeking liquid anhydrous skincare and / or makeup formulations with excellent shine and improved transfer-proof properties.

[0012] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0013] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one alkylcellulose-type polymer and one lipophilic polyamide-type polymer, in an anhydrous liquid composition comprising at least one volatile oil and optionally in addition one or more silicone-based non-volatile oils, preferably phenylated, enabling the production of a glossy to very glossy film ('vinyl') with very long-lasting and non-transfer properties.

[0014] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition, even with high levels of non-volatile oils.

[0015] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and

[0017] - at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and optionally also at least one coloring agent. It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, particularly of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0018] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0019] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0020] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, including skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips. The keratinous materials to which the compositions of the invention are applied are healthy keratinous materials, that is, materials free from disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (subjects who are not healthy, who suffer from a pathology).

[0021] The term "anhydrous" refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0022] By "liquid" composition according to the invention, we mean a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0023] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties. They also have good durability.

[0024] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0025] Glossiness. The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, a photograph can be taken of lips made up with the composition of the invention, and the gloss of the deposited film can be visually evaluated. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, even 'vinyl', film.

[0026] Non-transfer

[0027] According to a first method of evaluation (visual), the non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth...) is observed; compositions with good resistance to pressure are thus sought.

[0028] Film adhesion and sharpness of lip contours

[0029] The film's staying power on the lips refers to how well the makeup lasts over time, and to the film's evenness and adhesion, preventing it from migrating into the fine lines around the lips, resulting in a clean and precise lip contour. Staying power can be assessed over time by taking photographs, for example, with a Visia CR camera to capture photos of the mouth from the front, with eyes closed.

[0030] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0031] A first objective therefore concerns an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0032] - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0033] - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and

[0034] - at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and possibly also at least one colouring substance.

[0035] Alkylcellulose

[0036] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one alkylcellulose. Among the alkylcelluloses, methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably ethylcelluloses, may be mentioned.

[0037] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0038] The terms 'ethylcellulose film-forming polymer', 'ethylcellulose polymer', and 'ethylcellulose' will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of the description.

[0039] The term 'film-forming polymer' refers to a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, particularly on the skin and / or lips.

[0040] By 'ethylcellulose polymer' according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0041] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain of p-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. In a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of ethoxy substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0042] One can refer in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0043] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0044] The ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%; the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc; and the ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc. This alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is, or advantageously pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0045] According to a first method, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as is (in powder form). For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0046] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters possibly hydroxylated, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0047] The alkylcellulose content, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Preferably, a content greater than or equal to 1% or even greater than or equal to 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, will be used in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In a specific manner, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, will range from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0050] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15%, more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0052] Polyamides are linear polymers based on dicarboxylic acids and diamines. The term 'lipophilic' means that the polycondensate is not soluble in water, particularly in certain environments. Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for the acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0053] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers possessing different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs, and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0055] The rest of the description uses interchangeably 'polyamide polymer' or 'polyamide polycondensate' or 'lipophilic polyamide polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer'.

[0056] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable as fat-phase gelling agents in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0057] In particular, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group or an -ORi group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

[0058] According to a first mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) with an amide termination in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical at C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue at C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5.

[0059] According to a second mode, the polyamide used is an ester-terminated polyamide of formula (I) in which X represents an -OR1 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical at C8 to C22, preferably at C16 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue at C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5.

[0060] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylene diamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18.

[0061] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (Cie), stearyl alcohol (Cis), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0062] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), containing 99.7% active ingredient and a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0063] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by (Cis) stearyl alcohol.

[0064] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0065] The copolymer with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA. Generally, polymers as described below are presented as polymer mixtures, these mixtures potentially also containing a synthetic product corresponding to a biodiesel.

[0066] An example of a mixture of lipophilic gelling agents from among those described above is a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides with molecular weights of approximately 4,500 to 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0067] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] According to a particular mode, in particular in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Oily phase

[0070] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a liquid or oily fatty phase.

[0071] The term "oily phase" refers to an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0072] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0073] volatile oil

[0074] The composition of the invention further comprises at least one volatile oil.

[0075] By "oil" we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

[0076] By "volatile oil," we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% of its mass by weight at 15 minutes, more than 40% of its mass by weight at 30 minutes, and more than 70% of its mass by weight at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol: 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 25°C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is performed three times. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation: [Math.1]

[0077] % mtïss't 1 loses 100

[0078] With m txcorresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (t15min, t30min or t60min) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0079] The volatile oil(s) present in the composition of the invention are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0081] According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0082] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0083] The volatile oil can notably be chosen from silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0085] According to a particular mode, the volatile oil or oils of the composition of the invention are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from: Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Examples of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes include Cs-Cie isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0088] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0090] More specifically, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture, or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14) mixture.

[0091] Examples include alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:

[0092] - C9-C14, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0093] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0094] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and their mixtures. As possibly hydroxylated esters, one can mention in particular esters comprising preferably between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohols in C2-C6 and of monocarboxylic acids in C3-C6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0095] As examples of Cs-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate can be cited in particular.

[0096] Examples of ethers, particularly monoethers, include ethers with a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example such as dipentylether.

[0097] Examples of dialkoxymethane include those with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, and dibutoxymethane. These compounds are marketed by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively.

[0098] Examples of carbonates include those with 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Cl6 branched alkanes, C9-Cl4 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cg-Cl4 linear alkanes.

[0100] The total content of volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention, in particular of hydrocarbon volatile oil(s), will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Non-volatile oils

[0102] According to the invention, "non-volatile oil" means an oil that does not meet the definition of volatile oil described above.

[0103] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from among saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C8-C18, esters of fatty acids in C8-C10 and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0104] As liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, octyldodecanol can preferably be mentioned.

[0105] Examples of vegetable oils include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0106] Among the ester oils, we can notably mention:

[0107] - esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate, which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohol (e.g., coconut), caprylic acid, and capric acid,

[0108] - fatty acid esters, in particular those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0109] - synthetic esters such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate of 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0110] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0111] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0112] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0113] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids;

[0114] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; one can mention in particular the dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (ex: Lusplan™);

[0115] - esters of amino acid derivatives; examples include Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g., Eldew®); polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0116] - and their mixtures.

[0117] The expert will be able to adjust the percentage of additional oil(s) according to the percentages of polymers used to obtain the desired performance.

[0118] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters in C8-C18, fatty acid and propylene glycol esters, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-C26 fatty alcohol such as octyldodecanol.

[0119] As examples of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, one can cite in particular the isodecanol and neopentanoic acid ester, otherwise known as isodecyl neopentanoate such as that marketed under the name DU B VCI by Stearinerie Dubois.

[0120] Examples of C8-C18 fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters include Coco-Caprylate / Caprate.

[0121] As examples of C8-C10 fatty acid esters and propylene glycol, one can cite in particular the caprylic / capric saturated fatty acid ester derived from coconut / palm kernel oil and propylene glycol, with the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, such as the product marketed under the name MIGLYOL® 840.

[0122] Examples of triglycerides include triheptanoin, a triglyceride consisting of a glycerol residue esterified by three heptanoic acid residues, such as the product MIGL YOL® TC7.

[0123] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0124] Advantageously, liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0125] As particular examples of liquid fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred ingredients in the composition of the invention, one may mention in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0126] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0127] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention will comprise at least octyldodecanol.

[0128] The total content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] According to a particular method, the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty alcohol in C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70%, preferably again from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated (optional)

[0131] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the gloss and non-transfer of the film applied to keratinous materials, the composition of the invention shall further comprise one or more non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated.

[0132] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, at C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising a dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this invention, 'phenylated silicone oil' means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is specifically selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition includes at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0135] By "dimethicone fragment" we mean a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0136] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0137] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0138] Preferably, said oil does not include a C2-C3 alkene oxide group or a glycerol group.

[0139] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils containing a dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0140] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0141] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0142] For example, Wacker's Belsil PDM20, PDM 100, and PDM 1000 can be used, and in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 by Wacker. The composition may also include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenyl silicone oils not containing dimethicone fragments, non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils not containing a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. One example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula (III) is as follows:

[0144] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0145] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0146] As an example of a combination of phenyl silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0147] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0148] Examples of non-phenylated silicone-based non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones, preferably containing at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt are particularly noteworthy, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0149] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients in the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0150] According to a particular method, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall range in particular from 15 to 50% by weight, in particular from 20 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Brightening oils

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected especially from: esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include tridecyl trimellilate (Liponate TDTM); hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate (S Face IS 1005p), polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0153] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0154] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity);

[0155] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0156] - Octyldodecanol and Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0157] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and C15-19 Alkane and Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0158] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0159] - and their mixtures,

[0160] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can mention in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (ex: Eldew®);

[0161] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSI NATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0162] - vegetable oils containing triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof,

[0163] - and their mixtures.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the non-transfer of the film applied to keratinous materials, the composition of the invention shall further comprise a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0165] Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0166] In a particular way, the silicone polymer is a silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0167] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” here refers to any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0168] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0169] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0171] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0172] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0173] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0174] Thus, according to a particular mechanism, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0175] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0176] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0177] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0178] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0179] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula III with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0180] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0181] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0182] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0183] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention will be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of active polymer material (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of active polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0185] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0186] The "silicone-acrylate polymers" or "siliconized acrylate polymers" can be chosen from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif.

[0187] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0188] The vinyl polymer notably possesses a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif exhibiting a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751. The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" as used in the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure exhibiting high regularity in the radial direction from the bond to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0189] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0190] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0191] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s) and

[0192] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0193] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0194] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0196] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention can be dimethicone.

[0197] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0198] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2cst).

[0199] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0200] Silicone acrylate polymer (without dendrimer motif)

[0201] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer which does not comprise a dendrimer motif.

[0202] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0203] According to the present invention, by "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0204] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof. The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained by conventional polymerization and grafting methods, for example, by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example, on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000.The copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g., methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane).

[0205] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the name KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL).

[0206] ACRYLATE / DIMETH ICON METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER), or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0207] In a particular manner, copolymers of polydimethylysiloxane and one or more monomers chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® with INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE.

[0208] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0209] Other ingredients

[0210] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from additional lipophilic gelling agents distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, additional lipophilic polymers, C2-C5 monoalcohols, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, coloring materials, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] According to a particular method, the compositions of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0212] According to another particular method, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0213] The total content of C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), when present in the composition, may range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Other than additional lipophilic gelling agents besides polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate may be modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof, preferably modified clays.

[0215] Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0216] Clays are, in particular, natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they are hectorites. Even more preferentially, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups.

[0217] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0218] Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular: polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite R1100 CG), sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched esters of dextrin, such as dextrin isostearate, plant resins, such as candelilla resin, silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Coloring agents

[0220] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0221] The term "coloring material" in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0222] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0223] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from among pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and their mixtures.

[0224] The said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0225] These coloring materials, especially when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0226] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0227] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0228] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0229] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0230] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0231] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0233] In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0234] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, in particular C9-C14 linear alkanes,

[0235] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0236] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0237] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0238] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0239] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0240] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, in particular C9-C14 linear alkanes,

[0241] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0242] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0243] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0244] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least ethanol, and in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0245] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and furthermore at least one coloring material.According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, in particular C9-C14 linear alkanes; at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product.

[0246] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0247] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0248] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, at least one phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0249] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, in particular C9-C14 linear alkanes,

[0250] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0251] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0252] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0253] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0254] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (III) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0255] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0256] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and furthermore at least one coloring material.

[0257] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8; at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, in particular C9-C14 linear alkanes,

[0258] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which

[0259] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0260] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0261] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0262] - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer that is the reaction product

[0263] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0264] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, at least ethanol, and furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0265] According to the specific methods described above, the total contents of each of the ingredients, when present in the composition of the invention, and relative to the total weight of said composition, will advantageously range from: 1 to 10% by weight of alkylcellulose active ingredient, preferably ethylcellulose; 2 to 10% by weight of lipophilic polycondensate active ingredient of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by a C28-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18; 15 to 30% by weight of volatile oil(s), preferably selected from the group consisting of Cs-C16 branched alkanes and linear alkanes. C9-C14, and their mixtures, of 20 to 40% by weight of non-volatile phenyl-siliconized oil(s),5 to 15% by weight of silicone-polyurethane polymer active ingredient, 1 to 10% by weight of O2-O5 monoalcohol(s), and 2 to 10% by weight of coloring material(s).

[0266] GALENIQUE

[0267] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous liquid composition.

[0268] In particular, it will be a liquid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow or foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or lip lacquer.

[0269] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0270] COSMETIC PROCESS

[0271] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0272] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0273] The various embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above. The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] EXAMPLES

[0275] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0276] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols.

[0277] Glossy appearance

[0278] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0279] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0280] They are assigned ratings according to their level of gloss, with the categories determined using the liquid commercial compositions below as references:

[0281] - Very glossy or 'Vinyl': YSL Vinyl Cream lip lacquer (Mintel ID: 6589587),

[0282] Shiny: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick (Mintel ID: 11131402), Satin: Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 - Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Color Lacquer (Mintel ID: 11620242), and

[0283] Matte: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (Mintel ID: 8574469).

[0284] Non-transfer aspect

[0285] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated on the property of "non-transfer" according to the following protocol.

[0286] The procedure involves applying three layers of the composition to each lip, and after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be assessed.

[0287] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide, and ratings are assigned to them:

[0288] No transfer: no transfer

[0289] Low transfer: light transfer

[0290] Transfer: significant transfer. According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0291] The compositions of the invention also make it possible to obtain a makeup film with good long-lasting wear, without migration around the lips, for a precise and defined lip contour. The wear can be evaluated by a panel of experts, according to the following protocol:

[0292] Each formula is applied to half of the lips, the formula of the invention on the left side for example and the comparative formula on the right side;

[0293] Photos of the lips on which the formulas were applied were taken at T immediately after application, at T+ 15min, T+2h, and T+4h;

[0294] Experts evaluated the film's durability and the gloss of the tested compositions.

[0295] Good hold, as desired for the compositions of the invention, corresponds to maintaining good adhesion of the film over time, without migration into the fine lines around the lips, and with a precise and defined lip contour. Conversely, poor or degraded hold corresponds to a decrease in the film's adhesion over time and / or migration into the fine lines around the lips, leading to a blurred lip contour.

[0296] According to the invention, we are looking for compositions that allow us to obtain a more satiny film than the Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 - Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour reference, or even glossy compositions like the Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick or very glossy ones like the YSL Vinyl cream lip varnish, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick (glossy and non-transfer reference).

[0297] Example 2: Liquid lipsticks according to the invention

[0298] Different liquid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively: Compositions 1a and 1b: without phenylened silicone oil ('no-demixing' mode); composition 1b differs from composition 1a in that the 12.21% of C9-C12 alkanes are replaced by 12.21% of isododecane,

[0299] Composition 2: with phenylated silicone oil (mode 'with demixing'),

[0300] Composition 3: with phenylated silicone oil and additional silicone-polyurethane polymer in isododecane,

[0301] Composition 4: similar to composition 3, but without ethanol or pigments. Percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0302] [Table 1]

[0303] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0304] In a beaker in a water bath at 95°C, with stirring:

[0305] Phase A2 is prepared by forming an ethylcellulose pregel in octyldodecanol under a foaming agent for 1 hour at 700 rpm, then the bubbles are removed by reducing the stirring speed. Simultaneously, phase A1 is heated until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0306] We stop heating, let it cool to room temperature while stirring.

[0307] We add phase A2 to phase A1 and homogenize for 20 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0308] Next, phases B1 and B2 are added.

[0309] Then phase C and then phase D are added and homogenized using a Turrax® type homogenizer. The resulting compositions are packaged in airtight containers to prevent alcohol evaporation.

[0310] The resulting compositions are liquid lip products.

[0311] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide long-lasting makeup, evaluated according to the protocol of Example 1, as being ultra-glossy (vinyl) and transfer-resistant. The compositions illustrated, with linear alkanes (composition 1a) or branched alkanes (composition 1b) as hydrocarbon volatile oils, offer very good transfer-resistant and glossy performance, with even better transfer-resistant performance for compositions 2, 3, and 4. These results show that the presence of ethylcellulose, combined with polyamide-8, allows for good gloss and transfer-resistant properties in the resulting lip products, with transfer-resistant performance further improved in the presence of a phenyl silicone oil (composition 2 with Belsil) and / or a silicone-polyurethane polymer (compositions 3 and 4).

[0312] Example 3: Comparative Examples

[0313] The effect of the combination of ethylcellulose and polyamide-8 on the properties of gloss, non-transfer and hold (composition 2 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including polyamide-8) as illustrated in composition 5 or including another polymer than ethylcellulose as illustrated in composition 6, with isotoners.

[0314] Thus, composition 5 (comparative without Oleocraft) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention), in which the Oleocraft content has been transferred to the bentone. Composition 6 (comparative without ethylcellulose) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention), in which the ethylcellulose has been replaced by a branched dextrin ester (dextrin isostearate), with an equivalent active ingredient content.

[0315] [Table 2]

[0316] Composition 5 is prepared in the same way as composition 2 described previously.

[0317] Composition 6 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0318] Phase A is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0319] Phase A2 is then added while stirring.

[0320] Next, phases B and then C are added and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 minute at 12,000 rpm.

[0321] The resulting compositions are liquid lip products.

[0322] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide a glossy and transfer-proof finish, as evaluated according to the protocol in Example 1. However, the staying power of composition 5 is unacceptable (the composition migrates into the fine lines around the lips, blurring the lip contour). Furthermore, combining polyamide-8 with a polymer other than ethylcellulose, as illustrated in composition 6 with Miyofilm (dextrin isostearate), does not result in a glossy and transfer-proof finish.

[0323] These results therefore show that ethylcellulose in association with polyamide-8 makes it possible to obtain acceptable hold and the desired shine and non-transfer properties.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and - at least one volatile oil, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C8-C18, esters of fatty acids in C8-C10 and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, preferably again from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLEN EDI AMIN E / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof;in particular a poly(ester-amide) with ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine, the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.; 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an active material content of 1 to 20% by weight, in particular 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrocarbon volatile oil(s) are selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are present in the composition in a total content of 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile silicone, phenylated or non-phenylated oils.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprises at least one dimethicone fragment and is in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably is a phenylated silicone oil of formula (II) in which - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, preferably trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably a silicone-polyurethane polymer, in particular the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (IV) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises one or more C2-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a liquid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow or foundation, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or lip lacquer.

13. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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