Glossy non-transfer composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers, a polyamide lipophilic polycondensate, a phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil, a volatile oil preferably selected from C9-C14 linear alkanes, and optionally also at least one dyestuff.

Description

[0001] Glossy, transfer-proof formula

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to shiny and non-transfer anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin or lips.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] Previous works in skincare and / or makeup formulations have produced keratin-based materials with shine and staying power, but these tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) they come into contact with (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks, in particular, the demand is for an ultra-glossy product (with a "vinyl" finish) that offers very long wear and ideally doesn't transfer at all (a property known as "non-transfer").

[0006] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0007] Liquid products such as lip glosses are characterized by a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the drawback of providing a thin, opaque, and color-intense finish with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and considerable transfer. Solid products, particularly sticks, offer intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or transfer-proof properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss. Sticks marketed as long-lasting but not "transfer-proof" generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), while "transfer-proof" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0008] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of two-step application products (so-called "double-step" products): a 1 ère A long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second ème ultra-glossy transparent layer deposited on the first (“top coat”) which provides shine and non-stickiness, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or coloured residue.

[0009] Similarly, for the eyes, there are no non-transfer, non-sticky, glossy eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glossy eyeliners or mascaras. Therefore, the search is on for new skincare and / or makeup formulations for keratin-containing materials (including skin, lips, and eyelashes), in a single step, offering excellent shine and / or long-lasting wear, that do not settle into fine lines and wrinkles, and / or improved non-transfer properties.

[0010] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0011] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one silicone polymer and a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one volatile oil and one or more non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated, enabling the production of a glossy to ultra-glossy film ('vinyl') with very long-lasting performance and improved non-transfer properties.

[0012] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition.

[0013] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0015] - a silicone polymer chosen from among silicone-polyurethane polymers,

[0016] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0017] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated,

[0018] - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0019] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0020] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0021] The term "cosmetic composition" refers to any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e., aesthetic, purposes that may come into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, and more specifically with keratinous materials, particularly human skin and / or lips. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" refers to any excipient suitable for topical use in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and / or allergic reaction.

[0022] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" means skin and / or its appendages, including skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0023] The term "anhydrous" refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0024] The composition of the invention may be a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0025] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0027] According to another embodiment, the composition is solid.

[0028] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0029] The composition may notably be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0030] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, particularly the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in shape, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick of a composition intended for application to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 40 to 120 Gf. Those skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick shaping process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness.In particular, when the hardness is less than 100Gf, shaping the stick by a so-called "back-fill" process, consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred over shaping consisting of pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0031] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0032] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0033] Brilliance

[0034] The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, one can, in particular, take a photograph of lips made up with the composition of the invention and visually evaluate the gloss of the deposited film. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, or even vinyl-like, film.

[0035] Non-transfer

[0036] The non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth, glass...) is observed; thus, compositions with good resistance to pressure are sought.

[0037] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0038] A first objective therefore concerns an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment, at least:

[0039] - a silicone polymer chosen from among silicone-polyurethane polymers,

[0040] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0041] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated,

[0042] - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0043] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0044] According to a particular method, the volatile oil(s) are chosen from linear Cg-Ci4-alkanes. According to a particular method, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is preferably an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18.

[0045] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” here refers to any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0046] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0047] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups corresponds to formula (I) in which R is chosen independently at each occurrence from among a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and possibly substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from among an alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group, substituted or unsubstituted;Preferably, R is selected from linear, cyclic, or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl, or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl, or alkyl-aryl groups, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, and xylyl groups, wherein each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and a halogen, especially fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di-, and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 amino-substituted alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula - (CH2)I-6-NR; N 2 and - (CH2)I-6-NR N - (CH2)I-6-NR N 2 where R Nis typically hydrogen, but can also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH2CH2O) n -, the propylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O) n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate, or analogous functions; or wherein R may comprise an additional -L-OH group; wherein L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as, for example, a C1-C10 alkyl group, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)I- -, preferably -(CH2)I- 6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-; and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0048] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane having, for example, the structure of formula 1a: in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding, for example, to the structure of formula Ib: where n is as defined above. Diisocyanate can notably correspond to the formula O=C=NR 1 -N=C=O, where R 1is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R 1 may be selected from a linear, cyclic, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl, or arylalkyl group, optionally substituted, including, without limitation: i. a group of formula:

[0050] . CHj

[0051] 1-10 ii. a formula group: iii. a group of formulas: iv. a group of formulas: and combinations thereof.

[0052] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0054] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0055] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0056] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0057] Thus, according to a particular mechanism, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0058] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0059] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula II: in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to formula I, a and Ib, and where unit B has the structure of formula III: where R1 is as defined previously, and in which units A and B are arranged according to a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0061] The polymer may also include branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II are a group IV such as: in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula 111, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0062] When polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T-type or Q-type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as noted above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0063] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0064] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V: in which R, R 1 and L are as defined previously, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0065] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0066] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib, and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0067] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0068] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0070] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0071] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0072] In another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE). In a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention shall be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of active polymer, preferably further from 5 to 18% by weight of active polymer, and preferably further from 10 to 16% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0074] Polyamides are linear polymers based on dicarboxylic acids and diamines. By 'lipophilic', we mean that the polycondensate is not soluble in water, particularly at 25°C.

[0075] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (contact) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0076] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers possessing different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0077] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs, and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0078] Throughout the rest of the description, the terms "polyamide polymer," "polyamide polycondensate," "lipophilic polyamide polycondensate," "polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate," and "polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer" are used interchangeably. The polyamide-type polycondensate usable in the composition of the invention is preferably selected from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), and mixtures thereof.

[0079] In particular, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (VI) in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group or an -ORi group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

[0080] According to a first mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) with an amide termination in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5. According to a second mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide with an ester termination of formula (I) in which X represents a -OR1 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22, preferably from C16 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5.

[0081] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylene diamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), onto ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0083] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), containing 99.7% active ingredient and a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0084] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is a poly(ester-amide) with an ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0085] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0086] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0087] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a diester.

[0088] An example of a mixture of lipophilic gelling agents from among those described above is a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides with molecular weights of approximately 4,500 to 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0089] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] According to a particular mode, in particular in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] According to another particular method, especially in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0092] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0093] The term "oily phase" refers to an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0094] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0095] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated

[0096] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone non-volatile oil, selected from phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, in C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising a dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] The term "phenylated silicone oil" according to the invention refers to an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a particular method, the composition includes at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0101] By "dimethicone fragment" we mean a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0102] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0103] Preferably, said oil does not include a C2-C3 oxide alkene group or a glycerol group.

[0104] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils containing a dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0105] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0106] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0107] For example, one can use Belsils PDM20, PDM 100 and PDM 1000 from Wacker and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the Wacker company.

[0108] The composition may further include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenylated silicone oils not containing dimethicone fragments, non-phenylated silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Examples of phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oils that do not contain a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. One example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula is as follows:

[0110] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0111] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0112] As an example of a combination of phenyl silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0113] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0114] Examples of non-phenylated silicone-based non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones, preferably containing at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt are particularly noteworthy, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0115] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients in the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0116] According to a particular method, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall range in particular from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Glossy, viscous oils

[0118] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected especially from: aromatic acid and alcohol esters comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include tridecyl trimellilate (Liponate TDTM); hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate (S Face IS 1005p), polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0119] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0120] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity);

[0121] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0122] - Octyldodecanol and Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0123] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0124] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and C15-19 Alkane and Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0125] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0126] - and their mixtures,

[0127] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can mention in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (ex: Eldew®);

[0128] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSI NATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0129] - vegetable oils containing triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof,

[0130] - and their mixtures. Volatile oil

[0131] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil.

[0132] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from C9-14 linear volatile alkanes, in particular C9-C12 alkanes.

[0133] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0134] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0135] This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber controlled at 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation: [Math.1] 100 with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (t15min, t30min or t60min) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0136] The volatile oil(s) are chosen in particular from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

[0137] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0138] According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0139] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear and cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures. The volatile oil can be selected from among silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0141] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes.

[0143] Examples of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes include Cs-Cie iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0144] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0145] The volatile linear alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2. More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14) mixture.

[0146] Examples include alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:

[0147] - C9-C14, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0148] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0149] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and

[0150] - their mixtures.

[0151] In a particular method, a mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes will be used.

[0152] Examples of possibly hydroxylated esters include esters preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of C2-C6 monoalcohols and C3-C6 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0153] As examples of Cs-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate can be cited in particular.

[0154] Examples of ethers, particularly monoethers, include ethers with a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example such as dipentylether.

[0155] Examples of dialkoxymethane include those with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, and dibutoxymethane. These compounds are marketed by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively.

[0156] Examples of carbonates include those with 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes. The total content of volatile hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention, preferably C0-C14 volatile linear alkanes, will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the invention.

[0158] In particular, linear C9-C14 alkanes are present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 7 to 30% by weight, preferably from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Coloring agents

[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0161] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0162] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0163] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from among pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and their mixtures.

[0164] The said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0165] These coloring materials, especially when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0166] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0167] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0168] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0169] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0170] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0171] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0173] Alkylcellulose

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises an alkylcellulose.

[0175] Examples of alkylcelluloses include methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, particularly ethylcelluloses.

[0176] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0177] Throughout this description, we will use the terms "ethylcellulose film-forming polymer," "ethylcellulose polymer," and "ethylcellulose" interchangeably. A "film-forming polymer" is defined as a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of a film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, particularly on skin and / or lips.

[0178] By "ethylcellulose polymer" according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0179] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain of p-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. In a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of ethoxy substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0180] One can refer in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0181] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0182] The ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%; the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc.; and the ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc.

[0183] This alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is, or pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0184] According to a first method, the alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is (in powder form). For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0185] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters possibly hydroxylated, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0186] The alkylcellulose content, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Preferably, a content greater than or equal to 1% or even greater than or equal to 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, will be used in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, will range from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] According to an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise alkylcellulose.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise ethylcellulose.

[0191] Other ingredients

[0192] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, gelling agents such as additional lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] The term "fillers" refers to particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong shapes, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed throughout the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.The fillers may be chosen from among silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] In the case of a solid composition according to the invention, gelling and / or fat phase structuring agents may be advantageously used.

[0195] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0196] The terms "fat-phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" refer to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents can be mineral and / or organic.

[0197] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention include, in particular, solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25°C.

[0198] These structuring agents are notably chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, particularly from 55 to 80°C.

[0200] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0201] In a particular embodiment, in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, selected from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] In the case of a solid composition, modified clays are a notable example of "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents." Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected from among quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0203] Clays are, in particular, natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they are hectorites. Even more preferentially, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups.

[0204] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0205] Examples of "organic lipophilic gelling agents" usable in a solid composition of the invention include: esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), preferably unbranched, such as dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof, notably marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA by Chiba Flour Milling Co; esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), particularly C18-C24 esters, especially glycerol behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed, for example, under the name NOMCORT HK-P); hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HSA;sorbitan oleate, glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto, associative polymers derived from castor oil, isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil, olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), gelling agents with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed for example under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / I PDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, TJ sold for example under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE);Sorbitan olivate, marketed for example under the name OLIVEM 900, and mixtures thereof;

[0206] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent of the hydroxystearic acid type.

[0207] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, including hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, can also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0208] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point ranging from 65 to 75°C.

[0209] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Suitable "fatty alcohols" for the invention include, in particular, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0211] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0213] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18%, and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. "Pasty fats" usable as fat-phase structuring agents are defined as fats with a reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, both a liquid and a solid fraction.

[0215] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0216] In the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, it may be advantageous to use as additional lipophilic gelling agents, in particular modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0218] Clays are, in particular, natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they are hectorites. Even more preferentially, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups.

[0219] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0220] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise additional lipophilic polymers or C2-C5 monoalcohols.

[0221] Additional lipophilic polymers include: vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, and VP / styrene copolymers; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins; and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, and polydecenes; styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with the INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite R1100 CG); sugar esters, particularly sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB); branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate; and resins. plant-based, such as candelilla resin, silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0222] Other additional lipophilic polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention include the following products with the INCI name Dextrin isostearate / octyldodecanol (marketed, for example, under the name UNIFILMA HVY), euphorbia cerifera (candellila) wax extract (marketed, for example, under the name Candellila resin E-2), Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax (marketed, for example, under the name TOWAX 1 B5), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, IPDI Copolymer (marketed, for example, under the name POLYDERM PPI-DGDIS), polybutene (marketed, for example, under the name POLYBUT 200), triacontanyl PVP (marketed, for example, under the name ANTARON WP-660), dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (marketed, for example, under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA7), and trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer (marketed for example under the name WETFILM MB),Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol (marketed, for example, under the name KAHLRESIN 6723).

[0223] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0224] According to a particular method, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0225] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0226] - a silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0227] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0228] - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18,

[0229] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which

[0230] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0231] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0232] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0233] - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0234] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0235] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0236] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0237] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0238] - an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER,

[0239] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which

[0240] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0241] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0242] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0243] - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0244] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0245] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0246] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0247] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0248] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0249] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0250] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which

[0251] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0252] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0253] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0254] - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0255] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0256] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0257] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0258] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0259] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0260] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0261] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which

[0262] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0263] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0264] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0265] - a volatile oil selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0266] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0267] In these different embodiments, the proportions of each ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, will advantageously range from:

[0268] 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers, 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, in particular

[0269] 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s),

[0270] 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), preferably chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes, and

[0271] 1 to 20% by total weight of coloring material(s).

[0272] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0273] - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0274] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0275] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0276] 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, in particular a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0277] 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which

[0278] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0279] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0280] 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), preferably chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes.

[0281] GALENIQUE

[0282] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0283] In particular, it will be a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

[0284] In the first mode, it will be a liquid composition.

[0285] In particular, it will then be a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation or a concealer or corrector, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or a lip lacquer.

[0286] According to a second method, it will be a solid composition.

[0287] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition, in particular in the form of a stick, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a solid composition for the skin such as an eyeshadow, a skin stick (in particular a foundation stick, a color corrector, an eyelid stick, an eyebrow pencil or an eye pencil), or preferably a solid composition for the lips such as a lip stick (in particular a lip balm or a lipstick stick).

[0288] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0289] COSMETIC PROCESS

[0290] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0291] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0292] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] EXAMPLES

[0294] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0295] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols.

[0296] Glossy appearance

[0297] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0298] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0299] They are assigned ratings according to their level of brightness, with the categories determined using the commercial compositions below as references (controls).

[0300] For liquid compositions:

[0301] Very glossy or 'Vinyl': YSL Vinyl Cream Lip Lacquer (Mintel ID: 6589587) Glossy: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid Transfer-Proof Liquid Lipstick (ID: 1131402) Satin: Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour (ID: 11620242)

[0302] Matte: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (ID: 8574469) For solid formulations:

[0303] Very brilliant or 'Vinyl': YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick (Mintel ID: 11690232)

[0304] Glossy: Dior Addict Shine Moisturizing Lipstick (ID: 11718154)

[0305] Satin: Rouge Dior satin finish COUTURE COLOR LIPSTICK (ID: 11440790) Matte: Intense Couture Color Tranfer-Proof Lipstick (ID: 11188444)

[0306] Non-transfer aspect

[0307] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated for non-transfer properties according to the following protocol.

[0308] The procedure involves applying three layers of the composition to each lip, and after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be assessed.

[0309] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and ratings are assigned to them.

[0310] No transfer: no transfer

[0311] Low transfer: light transfer

[0312] Transfer: important transfer

[0313] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0314] According to the invention, the following are sought: for liquid compositions, compositions that provide a more satin finish than the Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour, or even glossy compositions such as Rouge Dior Forever transfer-proof liquid lipstick or very glossy ones such as YSL Vinyl Cream lip lacquer, but which also have an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (a glossy and non-transfer reference); and for solid compositions, compositions that provide a more satin finish than the Rouge Dior Couture Colour Satin Lipstick, or even glossy compositions such as Dior Addict Moisturizing Gloss Lipstick or very glossy ones such as YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick.but also having an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Intense Couture Colour Transfer-Proof Lipstick (non-transfer but matte reference). Example 2: Liquid lipsticks according to the invention,

[0315] Different liquid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively:

[0316] Composition 1: with polyamide-type polycondensate, silicone-polyurethane polymer in isododecane, phenylated silicone oil and volatile oil,

[0317] Composition 2: similar to composition 1 but with ethylcellulose; Composition 3: similar to composition 2 but without ethanol or pigments.

[0318] Composition 4: similar to composition 1 but with silicone-polyurethane polymer in a silicone oil.

[0319] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0320] [Table 1]

[0321] [Table 2]

[0322] MA = active ingredients

[0323] Compositions 1 and 4 are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0324] Phase A is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0325] Phase A2 is then added while stirring. Phases B and C are then added, followed by D, and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 minute at 12,000 rpm.

[0326] Compositions 2 and 3 are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0327] A pre-gel concentrated with 20% ethylcellulose A2 is prepared (ethylcellulose is dispersed in octyldodecanol under stirring at 90°C), and allowed to cool under stirring.

[0328] Phase A (including the previously prepared phase A2) is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped, and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0329] Phase A2 is then added while stirring.

[0330] Next, phases B, C, then D are added, and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0331] The resulting compositions are liquid lip products.

[0332] When applied to the lips, these compositions provide long-lasting makeup, evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as being glossy and non-transferable, with even better shine performance (reaching ultra-glossy) for compositions 2 and 3.

[0333] These results show that the presence of a silicone-polyurethane polymer, combined with polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil, allows for good shine and non-transfer properties of the resulting lip products, with shine performance further improved in the presence of ethylcellulose (compositions 2 and 3).

[0334] Example 3: Comparative Examples

[0335] The effect of combining a silicone-polyurethane polymer, polyamide-8, a phenyl silicone oil and a volatile oil (composition 1 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including polyamide-8, as illustrated in composition 5. Thus, composition 5 (comparative) is similar to composition 1 (according to the invention), in which the Oleocraft content has been reported on the bentone.

[0336] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0337] [Table 3]

[0338] Composition 5 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0339] Phase A is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0340] Phase A2 is then added while stirring.

[0341] Next, phases B, C, then D are added, and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0342] The resulting compositions are liquid lip products.

[0343] When applied to the lips, the compositions allow for a makeup finish evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as non-transferable for compositions 1 and 5, but only satin for composition 5, while composition 1 allows for a makeup finish evaluated as glossy.

[0344] These results therefore show that polyamide 8, in association with a silicone-polyurethane polymer, a silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0345] Example 4: Solid lipsticks according to the invention

[0346] Different solid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively: Compositions 6 and 7: with polyamide-type polycondensate, silicone-polyurethane polymer in isododecane, phenylated silicone oil and volatile oil,

[0347] Composition 8: similar to composition 7 but with non-phenylated silicone oil; Compositions 9, 10: similar to composition 6 but with different levels of silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0348] Compositions 11 and 12: similar to composition 6 but with different shiny viscous oils.

[0349] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0350] [Table 4]

[0351]

[0352] [Table 5]

[0353]

[0354] MA = active ingredients

[0355] [Table 6]

[0356] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0357] Phase A1 is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0358] Next, phase A2 is added to phase A1 and homogenized at 90°C.

[0359] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0360] Finally, we add phase C.

[0361] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0362] The resulting compositions are solid lip products.

[0363] When applied to the lips, the compositions allow for a makeup effect evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as having good shine and non-transfer properties.

[0364] These results show that the presence of a silicone-polyurethane polymer, combined with polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil, allows for good shine and non-transfer properties in the lip products obtained.

[0365] Example 5: Comparative Examples

[0366] The effect of combining a silicone-polyurethane polymer, polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil (composition 6 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including polyamide-8, as illustrated in composition 13. The control composition 13 below is a comparative solid lipstick, with a composition similar to composition 6 but not including Polyamide-8.

[0367] Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition. [Table 7] Composition 13 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0368] Phase A1 is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0369] Phase A2 is then added to phase A1 and homogenized at 90°C. It is then added to phase B and homogenized.

[0370] Finally, we add phase C.

[0371] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0372] The resulting compositions are solid lip products. When applied to the lips, the compositions produce a makeup finish evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as satin for compositions 6 and 13, but only low-transfer for composition 13, while composition 6 produces a makeup finish evaluated as non-transfer.

[0373] These results therefore show that polyamide 8, in association with a silicone-polyurethane polymer, a silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a silicone polymer chosen from among silicone-polyurethane polymers, - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a non-volatile silicone oil, - a volatile oil, preferably chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes, and - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof; preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably a phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment and is in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably is a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, preferably trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone polymer is present in a content of 0.5 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably 1 to 20% by weight, even better 1.5 to 15% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an amount of active matter ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular of phenylated silicone oil(s), in the composition of the invention ranges from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises: 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers, 1 to 30% by weight of active matter (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), and / or 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), preferably chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is liquid.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it does not comprise alkylcellulose, in particular does not comprise ethylcellulose.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

13. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

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