Glossy, transfer-resistant anhydrous composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) a polyamide lipophilic polycondensate, (ii) a compound promoting adhesion of the composition to keratin materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), (iii) a volatile oil, and (iv) optionally in addition at least one colorant.

Description

[0001] Glossy, non-transfer anhydrous composition

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to shiny and non-transfer anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin or lips.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] Previous works in skincare and / or makeup formulations have produced keratin-based products with shine and staying power, but these tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) they come into contact with (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks, in particular, the demand is for an ultra-glossy product (with a "vinyl" finish) that offers very long wear and ideally doesn't transfer at all (a property known as "non-transfer").

[0006] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0007] Liquid products such as lip glosses are characterized by a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the drawback of providing a thin, opaque, and color-intense finish with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and considerable transfer. Solid products, particularly sticks, offer intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or transfer-proof properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss. Sticks marketed as long-lasting but not "transfer-proof" generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), while "transfer-proof" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0008] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of products that require two steps to apply (so-called "double-step" products): 1 ère A long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second ème ultra-glossy transparent layer deposited on the first (“top coat”) which provides shine and non-stickiness, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or coloured residue.

[0009] Similarly, for the eyes, there are no non-transfer, non-sticky, glossy eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glossy eyeliners or mascaras. Therefore, the search is on for new skincare and / or makeup formulations for keratin-containing materials (including skin, lips, and eyelashes), in a single step, offering excellent shine and / or long-lasting wear, that do not settle into fine lines and wrinkles, and / or improved non-transfer properties.

[0010] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0011] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one volatile oil, enabling the production of an ultra-glossy film ('vinyl') with very long-lasting performance and improved non-transfer properties.

[0012] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition.

[0013] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of:

[0015] • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0016] • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0017] • branched dextrin esters,

[0018] • and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), a volatile oil, and possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, with a composition according to the invention. "Cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e., aesthetic, purposes, that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, especially human skin and / or lips.

[0020] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0021] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" means skin and / or its appendages, including skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0022] The term "anhydrous" refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0023] The composition of the invention may be a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0024] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0026] According to another embodiment, the composition is solid.

[0027] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0028] The composition may notably be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0029] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, particularly the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in shape, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick of a composition intended for application to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 40 to 120 Gf.

[0030] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-forming process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular, when the hardness is less than 100Gf, the stick-forming process known as "back-fill," which consists of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred to a forming process that involves pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0031] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0032] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0033] Brilliance

[0034] The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, one can, in particular, take a photograph of lips made up with the composition of the invention and visually evaluate the gloss of the deposited film. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, or even vinyl-like, film.

[0035] Non-transfer

[0036] The non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth, glass...) is observed; thus, compositions with good resistance to pressure are sought.

[0037] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0038] A first objective therefore concerns an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of:

[0039] • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0040] • branched dextrin esters,

[0041] • and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), a volatile oil, and possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0043] Polyamides are linear polymers based on dicarboxylic acids and diamines. By 'lipophilic', we mean that the polycondensate is not soluble in water, particularly at 25°C.

[0044] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0045] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers possessing different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0046] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs, and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0047] The rest of the description uses interchangeably terms such as "polyamide polymer", "polyamide polycondensate", "lipophilic polyamide polycondensate", "polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate", or "polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer".

[0048] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In particular, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group or an -ORi group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

[0050] According to a first mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I) with an amide termination in which X represents a -N(RI)2 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5. According to a second mode, the polyamide used is a polyamide with an ester termination of formula (I) in which X represents a -OR1 group with each Ri being a linear or branched alkyl radical from C8 to C22, preferably from C16 to C22 and which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue from C28-C42, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n varies from 2 to 5.

[0051] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylene diamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), onto ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0053] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), containing 99.7% active ingredient and a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0054] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is a poly(ester-amide) with an ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0055] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0056] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0057] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a diester.

[0058] An example of a mixture of lipophilic gelling agents from among those described above is a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides with molecular weights of approximately 4,500 to 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0059] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] According to a particular mode, in particular in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] According to another particular method, especially in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30%, better still from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, thus promoting the adhesion of the composition to the materials. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more compounds having good adhesion properties on the skin and / or lips, dispersible in oil phase, polymeric or non-polymeric, and distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type described above.

[0062] This compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials (also called "adhesive compound") according to the invention is capable of guaranteeing optimal adhesion to the skin and / or lips throughout the day.

[0063] The compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] In a specific method, this compound, which promotes film adhesion to the skin and / or lips, is characterized by an adhesion work function measurement, as defined by the following protocol. The adhesion work function of a raw material (e.g., a polymer) is measured at room temperature (22°C + / - 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) using the "Delrin finger" method. The instrument used is a TAXT Plus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems. The method consists of inserting a 12.7 mm diameter polyoxymethylene (Delrin) cylinder, rounded at its end, into a 6 cm diameter and 4 cm high container filled with the raw material (e.g., polymer) to be tested. The insertion depth is 13 mm, at a speed of 2 mm / sec. After this insertion depth, the cylinder is withdrawn at a speed of 2 mm / sec.

[0065] The resistance force to cylinder removal is measured until the polymer bonded to the cylinder completely detaches, corresponding to a return to zero measured force. The calculated adhesion work, expressed in N / mm², corresponds to the total area under the x-axis.

[0066] Thus, within the framework of the invention, a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips will preferably be used, having an adhesion work greater than or equal to 2 N / mm, preferably greater than or equal to 4 N / mm, and in particular ranging from 5 N / mm to 35 N / mm, or even from 7 N / mm to 30 N / mm, measured for example by the protocol described above.

[0067] Examples of adhesion polymers include the following, whose adhesion work has been measured according to the protocol described above:

[0068] - UNIMER U 1946 (VP / hexadecene copolymer, INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol): 7.7 N / mm²

[0069] - CGT-UNIFILMA HVY (85%) (dextrin isostearate): 20.7 N / mm²

[0070] - EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB (sucrose acetate isobutyrate): 24.2 N / mm. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, said compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials is chosen from the group consisting of: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched esters of dextrin, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to a particular and preferred method, said compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials is chosen from among sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0072] Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

[0073] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers.

[0074] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a VP / hexadecene copolymer, such as that with INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol, marketed under the name UNIMER U-1946.

[0075] The copolymer(s) of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the VP / hexadecene copolymer, is (are) present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Sugar esters

[0077] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a film cohesion-enhancing compound selected from sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company. This compound can be prepared by known techniques of reaction between sucrose and acetic and isobutyric anhydrides, followed by extensive purification by vacuum distillation. The degree of esterification is nearly complete (degree of substitution greater than 7.5, with a maximum degree of substitution of 8), with an acetate:isobutyrate ester ratio of 2:6. US patent 3,096,324 gives an example of the preparation of SAIB.

[0078] The sucrose ester(s), in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate, is / are present in the composition at a total content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Branched dextrin esters

[0079] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials selected from branched esters of dextrin.

[0080] The branched dextrin ester used in the invention may comprise one or more esterified chains, identical or different. For example, it may consist of dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared using conventional esterification methods.In a particular manner, a branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester in which the dextrin has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and in which the fatty acid(s) comprise from 50% to 100% by mole, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and in which the degree of dextrin substitution by the fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

[0081] Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865. According to a specific embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is selected from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

[0082] Among the commercially available compounds, we can mention UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate, marketed by the Chiba Flour Milling Co.

[0083] According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Oily phase

[0085] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase. The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0086] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil

[0087] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil.

[0088] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0089] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0090] This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber controlled at 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation: [Math.1] with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (t15min, t30min or t60min) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0091] The volatile oil(s) are chosen in particular from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

[0092] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0093] According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0094] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0095] The volatile oil can notably be chosen from silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, particularly dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. The centistoke (cSt) is a unit of measurement for kinematic viscosity, with the following SI unit equivalent: 1 cSt = 10⁻¹⁰ 2 St= 10' 6 m 2 / s.

[0096] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0097] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Examples of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes include Cs-Cie iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0099] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0101] More specifically, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture, or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14) mixture.

[0102] Examples include alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:

[0103] - C9-C14, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name 09-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0104] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and

[0105] - their mixtures.

[0106] Examples of possibly hydroxylated esters include esters preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohol in O2-O6 and of monocarboxylic acid in O3-O6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0107] As branched Os-Oie esters, one can notably cite isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0108] Examples of ethers, particularly monoethers, include ethers with a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example such as dipentylether.

[0109] Examples of dialkoxymethane include those with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, and dibutoxymethane. These compounds are marketed by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively.

[0110] Examples of carbonates include those with 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0111] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of Os-Oie branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0112] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes.

[0113] The total content of volatile oil(s), in particular volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition of the invention, will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 12% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon volatile oils in a total content of at least 12% by weight of hydrocarbon volatile oils, in particular at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably in a content ranging from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may also further comprise branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Glossy, viscous oils

[0117] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected especially from: aromatic acid and alcohol esters comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include tridecyl trimellilate (Liponate TDTM); hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate (S Face IS 1005p), polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0118] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0119] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity);

[0120] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0121] - Octyldodecanol and Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0122] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and C15-19 Alkane and Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0123] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0124] - and their mixtures,

[0125] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can mention in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (ex: Eldew®);

[0126] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSI NATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0127] - vegetable oils containing triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof,

[0128] - and their mixtures.

[0129] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the gloss and non-transfer of the film applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil, chosen from phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil.

[0132] Non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, in C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] The term "phenylated silicone oil" according to the invention refers to an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0135] According to a particular method, the composition includes at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0136] By "dimethicone fragment" we mean a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0137] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0138] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0139] Preferably, said oil does not include a C2-C3 oxide alkene group or a glycerol group.

[0140] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils containing a dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0141] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0142] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0143] For example, Wacker's Belsil PDM20, PDM 100, and PDM 1000 can be used, and in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 by Wacker. The composition may also include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenyl silicone oils not containing dimethicone fragments, non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Examples of phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oils that do not contain a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. One example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula is as follows:

[0145] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0146] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0147] As an example of a combination of phenyl silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0148] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0149] Examples of non-phenylated silicone-based non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones, preferably containing at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt are particularly noteworthy, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt). A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients in the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0150] According to a particular method, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall range from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymers.

[0152] Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0153] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0154] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” here refers to any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0155] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0156] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups corresponds to the formula (H) in which R is chosen independently at each occurrence from among a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and possibly substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from among an alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group, substituted or unsubstituted;Preferably, R is selected from linear, cyclic, or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl, or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl, or alkyl-aryl groups, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, and xylyl groups, wherein each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and a halogen, especially fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di-, and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 amino-substituted alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula - (CH2)I-6-NR; N 2 and - (CH2)I-6-NR N - (CH2)I-6-NR N 2 where R Nis typically hydrogen, but can also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH2CH2O) n -, the propylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O) n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate, or analogous functions; or wherein R may comprise an additional -L-OH group; wherein L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as, for example, a C1-C10 alkyl group, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)I- -, preferably -(CH2)I- 6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-; and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0157] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane having, for example, the structure of formula 1a: in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0158] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding, for example, to the structure of formula Ib: where n is as defined above.

[0159] Diisocyanate can notably correspond to the formula O=C=NR 1-N=C=O, where R 1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R 1 may be selected from a linear, cyclic, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl, or arylalkyl group, optionally substituted, including, without limitation: i. a group of formula: ii. a formula group: iii. a group of formulas: iv. a group of formulas: and combinations thereof.

[0160] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0161] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0162] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0163] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0164] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0165] Thus, according to a particular mechanism, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0166] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (llb) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0167] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula III: in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to formula I, a and Ib, and where unit B has the structure of formula IV: where R1 is as defined previously, and in which units A and B are arranged according to a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0169] The polymer may also include branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II is a group

[0170] V such that: in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula 111, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0171] When polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T-type or Q-type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as noted above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0172] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0173] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula VI: in which R, R 1 and L are as defined previously, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0174] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0175] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib, and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0176] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG). By "substantially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0177] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0178] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0179] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0180] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0181] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention shall be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 5 to 18% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 10 to 16% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] silicone-acrylate polymer

[0183] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0184] The "silicone-acrylate polymers" or "siliconized acrylate polymers" can be chosen from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0185] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0186] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure exhibiting high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0187] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0189] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s) and

[0190] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0191] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0192] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0193] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0194] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention can be dimethicone.

[0195] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0196] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2cst).

[0197] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0198] Silicone acrylate polymer (without dendrimer motif)

[0199] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer that does not comprise a dendrimer motif. TJ

[0200] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0201] According to the present invention, by "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof. The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained by conventional polymerization and grafting methods, for example, by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example, on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000.The copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g., methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecanes).

[0203] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the name KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL).

[0204] ACRYLATE / DIMETH ICON METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER), or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0205] According to a particular and preferred method, copolymers of polydimethylysiloxane and one or more monomers chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE.

[0206] Coloring agents

[0207] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0208] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0209] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0210] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from among pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and their mixtures.

[0211] The said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0212] These coloring materials, especially when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0213] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0214] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly with a surface treatment; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue. For lip compositions, examples include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; and manganese violet.

[0215] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0216] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0219] Alkylcellulose

[0220] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise alkylcellulose.

[0221] Examples of alkylcelluloses include methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, particularly ethylcelluloses.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise ethylcellulose.

[0223] We will refer interchangeably to "ethylcellulose film-forming polymer", "ethylcellulose polymer" or "ethylcellulose" in the rest of the description.

[0224] By "ethylcellulose polymer" according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0225] Ethylcellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether, consisting of a chain of p-anhydroglucose units linked by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is typically 10 to 55%.

[0226] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0227] The ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%; the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N 100, available from Ashland, Inc; and the ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc.

[0228] Other ingredients

[0229] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] The term "fillers" refers to particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong shapes, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed throughout the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0231] The fillers may be chosen from among silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.The composition according to the invention may also further comprise additional lipophilic gelling agents, distinct from the polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate, additional lipophilic polymers, or C2-C5 monoalcohols.

[0232] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is solid, and it preferably also includes gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents.

[0233] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0234] The terms "fat-phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" refer to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents can be mineral and / or organic.

[0235] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention include, in particular, solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25°C.

[0236] These structuring agents are notably chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, particularly from 55 to 80°C.

[0238] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0239] In a particular embodiment, in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, selected from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0240] In the case of a solid composition, modified clays are a notable example of "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents." Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected from among quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0241] Clays are, in particular, natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they are hectorites. Even more preferentially, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups.

[0242] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0243] As distinct "organic lipophilic gelling agents" from the polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate usable in a solid composition of the invention, the following may be cited in particular: esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), in particular unbranched such as palmitate, dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof, in particular marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA marketed by Chiba Flour Milling Co; esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), in particular C18-C24 esters, in particular glycerol behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed, for example, under the name NOMCORT HK-P); hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HAS;sorbitan oleate, glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto, associative polymers derived from castor oil, isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil, olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), gelling agents with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed for example under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / I PDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, sold for example under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE);Sorbitan olivate, marketed for example under the name OLIVEM 900, and mixtures thereof;

[0244] According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent of the hydroxystearic acid type. According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from Ajinomoto.

[0245] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, including hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, can also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0246] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point ranging from 65 to 75°C.

[0247] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] Suitable "fatty alcohols" for the invention include, in particular, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0249] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0251] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0252] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18%, and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. "Pasty fats" usable as fat-phase structuring agents are defined as fats with a reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, both a liquid and a solid fraction.

[0253] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0254] According to a particular method, as organic lipophilic gelling agents usable in the composition, in particular the solid composition of the invention, we can mention in particular Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046).

[0255] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising less than 5% by weight of waxes, in particular less than 2% by weight of waxes, or even is free of waxes.

[0256] The total content of distinct lipophilic gelling agents in the organic-type lipophilic polycondensate will generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 2 to 40% by weight, and especially from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The total content of fat phase structuring agents will generally range from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, especially from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] A person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the percentage according to the nature of the structuring agents and the desired hardness of the composition.

[0259] In the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents other than polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate, and mixtures thereof may advantageously be used as additional lipophilic gelling agents. Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected from among quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0260] Clays are, in particular, natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they are hectorites. Even more preferentially, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups.

[0261] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0262] Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular: polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite R1100 CG), vegetable resins, such as candelilla resin, silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0263] Other additional lipophilic polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention include the following products with the INCI name euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax extract (marketed, for example, under the name Candellila resin E-2), Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (marketed, for example, under the name TOWAX 1 B5), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, IPDI Copolymer (marketed, for example, under the name POLYDERM PPI-DGDIS), polybutene (marketed, for example, under the name POLYBUT 200), triacontanyl PVP (marketed, for example, under the name ANTARON WP-660), dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (marketed, for example, under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA7), trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer (marketed, for example, under the name WETFILM MB), Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol (marketed for example under the name KAHLRESIN 6723).According to a particular method, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0264] According to a particular method, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0265] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0266] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18,

[0267] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0268] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0269] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0270] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0271] (VII) in which

[0272] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0273] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0274] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0275] - possibly also a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0276] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (llb) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0277] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0278] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0279] - an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER,

[0280] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0281] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0282] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0283] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0284] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0285] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0286] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0287] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0288] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0289] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0290] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0291] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0292] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0293] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0294] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0295] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0296] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0297] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0298] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0299] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0300] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0301] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0302] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0303] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0304] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0305] - a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0306] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0307] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0308] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone,

[0309] - possibly also at least one coloring agent, and

[0310] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0311] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0312] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0313] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0314] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0315] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0316] - a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0317] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0318] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0319] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone,

[0320] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0321] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and

[0322] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0323] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0324] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0325] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0326] - a volatile oil chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0327] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0328] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0329] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0330] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0331] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0332] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0333] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0334] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0335] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0336] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0337] - a volatile oil selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0338] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0339] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0340] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0341] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0342] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0343] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0344] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0345] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0346] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0347] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0348] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0349] - a volatile oil selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0350] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0351] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0352] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0353] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0354] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0355] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0356] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0357] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0358] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0359] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0360] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0361] - one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils in a total content of at least 12% by weight, in particular at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and mixtures thereof,

[0362] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0363] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0364] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0365] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0366] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0367] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0368] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0369] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0370] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0371] - - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0372] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0373] - one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils in a total content of at least 12% by weight, in particular at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and mixtures thereof,

[0374] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0375] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0376] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0377] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0378] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0379] - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0380] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0381] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0382] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0383] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0384] - one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils in a total content of at least 12% by weight, in particular at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and mixtures thereof,

[0385] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0386] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII) in which

[0387] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0388] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0389] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0390] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0391] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0392] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition and comprises:

[0393] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0394] - an additional gelling agent separate from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide,

[0395] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0396] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0397] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0398] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0399] (VII) in which

[0400] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0401] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0402] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0403] - possibly in addition a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (llb) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0404] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0405] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition and comprises:

[0406] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0407] - an additional gelling agent separate from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide,

[0408] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0409] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane,

[0410] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0411] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0412] (VII) in which

[0413] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0414] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0415] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0416] - possibly also a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0417] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0418] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0419] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition and comprises:

[0420] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylene diamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, - an additional gelling agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide,

[0421] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0422] - a volatile oil chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0423] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0424] - possibly in addition a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0425] (VII) in which

[0426] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0427] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0428] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0429] - possibly also a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0430] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0431] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0432] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition and comprises: - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0433] - an additional gelling agent separate from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide,

[0434] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0435] - a volatile oil chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0436] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0437] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0438] (VII) in which

[0439] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0440] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0441] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0442] - possibly also a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0443] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Il b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0444] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition and comprises:

[0445] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, preferably an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endpoints being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0446] - an additional gelling agent separate from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular selected from glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide,

[0447] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0448] - a volatile oil chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0449] - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0450] - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VII)

[0451] (VII) in which

[0452] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0453] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0454] - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0455] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0456] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (llb) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0457] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0458] In these different embodiments, the proportions of each ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, will advantageously range from:

[0459] - 1 to 30% by weight of active matter (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular of ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), in particular obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18,

[0460] - 2 to 20% by weight of active material (dry matter) of a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, in particular chosen from sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0461] - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), in particular at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0462] - 2 to 20% by total weight of coloring matter(s),

[0463] - 10 to 50% by total weight of silicone non-volatile oil(s), in particular phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, and

[0464] - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polyurethane polymer.

[0465] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0466] - 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular of ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), notably obtained by condensation of a C28-C42 diacid on an ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, in particular C12-C20 and preferably C16-C18, - 2 to 20% by weight of active material (dry matter) of a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, in particular selected from sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), and

[0467] - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), in particular at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0468] GALENIQUE

[0469] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0470] In particular, it will be a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

[0471] In the first mode, it will be a liquid composition.

[0472] In particular, it will then be a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation or a concealer or corrector, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or a lip lacquer.

[0473] According to a second method, it will be a solid composition.

[0474] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition, in particular in the form of a stick, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a solid composition for the skin such as an eyeshadow, a skin stick (in particular a foundation stick, a color corrector, an eyelid stick, an eyebrow pencil or an eye pencil), or preferably a solid composition for the lips such as a lip stick (in particular a lip balm or a lipstick stick).

[0475] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0476] COSMETIC PROCESS The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0477] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0478] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0479] EXAMPLES

[0480] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0481] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols.

[0482] Glossy appearance

[0483] The gloss of the solid compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0484] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0485] They are assigned ratings according to their level of brightness, with the categories determined using the commercial solid compositions below as references (controls).

[0486] Very brilliant or 'Vinyl': YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick (Mintel ID: 11690232)

[0487] Glossy: Dior Addict Shine Moisturizing Lipstick (ID: 11718154)

[0488] Satin: Rouge Dior satin finish COUTURE COLOR LIPSTICK (ID: 11440790) Matte: Intense Couture Color Tranfer-Proof Lipstick (ID: 11188444)

[0489] Non-transfer aspect

[0490] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated for their non-transfer properties according to the following protocol. This involves applying three layers of the composition to each lip and, after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be assessed.

[0491] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and ratings are assigned to them.

[0492] No transfer: no transfer

[0493] Low transfer: light transfer

[0494] Transfer: important transfer

[0495] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0496] According to the invention, we are looking for compositions that allow us to obtain a more satiny film than the reference Rouge Dior satin finish COUTURE COLOUR LIPSTICK, or even glossy compositions like the Dior Addict Rouge à lèvres brille moisturisant Dior addict shine lipstick or very glossy like the YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Intense Couture Colour Transfer- Proof Lipstick (non-transfer but matte reference). Solid lipsticks according to the invention

[0497] Different solid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated, respectively: Compositions 1 and 3: with polyamide-type polycondensate, an adhesion-promoting compound and volatile oil, but without silicone oil (without demixing) and with silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0498] Composition 2: with polyamide-type polycondensate, adhesion-promoting compound and volatile oil, and furthermore phenylated silicone oil (but without silicone-polyurethane polymer); Compositions 4 and 5: similar to composition 2, but with silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0499] Composition 6: similar to composition 5 but with non-phenylated silicone oil; Compositions 7, 8 and 9: similar to composition 4 but with different silicone acrylate polymers.

[0500] Compositions 10 and 11: similar to composition 4 but with different shiny viscous oils.

[0501] Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition. [Table 1]

[0502] [Table 2] [Table 3]

[0503] [Table 4]

[0504] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0505] Phase A1 is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C. Phase A2 is then added to phase A1 and homogenized at 90°C.

[0506] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0507] Finally, we add phase C.

[0508] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds. The resulting compositions are solid lip products.

[0509] When applied to the lips, the compositions allow for a makeup effect evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as having good shine and non-transfer properties.

[0510] These results show that the presence of polyamide-8, combined with an adhesion-enhancing compound and a volatile oil, provides good gloss and non-transfer properties for the lip products obtained, with gloss and non-transfer performance further improved in the presence of a phenylated silicone volatile oil (composition 2).

[0511] Example 3: Comparative Examples

[0512] The effect of combining polyamide-8, an adhesion promoter, and a volatile oil (compositions 2 and 4 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including volatile oil, as illustrated in control composition 12, and to compositions not including sucrose acetate isobutyrate (adhesion promoter), as illustrated in control compositions 13 and 14.

[0513] Thus, composition 12 (comparative) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention) in which the volatile oil has been removed.

[0514] Composition 13 (comparative) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention) in which sucrose acetate isobutyrate has been removed, and composition 14 (comparative) is similar to composition 4 (according to the invention) in which sucrose acetate isobutyrate has been removed.

[0515] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0516] [Table 5]

[0517]

[0518] [Table 6]

[0519] Compositions 12, 13 and 14 are prepared according to the following operating procedures.

[0520] For composition 12, phase A1 is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0521] Next, phase A2 is added to phase A1 and homogenized at 90°C.

[0522] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0523] Finally, we add phase C.

[0524] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds. For compositions 13 and 14, a pre-gel concentrated with 20% ethylcellulose A3 is prepared (ethylcellulose is dispersed in octyldodecanol under stirring at 90°C), and allowed to cool under stirring.

[0525] Phase A1 is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 (including the previously prepared phase A3) is melted at 90°C.

[0526] Next, phase A2 is added to phase A1 and homogenized at 90°C.

[0527] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0528] Finally, we add phase C.

[0529] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0530] The resulting compositions are solid lip products.

[0531] When applied to the lips, comparative compositions 13 and 14 (without sucrose acetate isobutyrate) produce a makeup product evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as glossy but transfer-resistant, confirming that only the combination of a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, an adhesion-enhancing compound chosen in particular from the group consisting of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, sugar esters, branched dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and a volatile oil makes it possible to obtain a product with the desired glossy and non-transfer properties.

[0532] When applied to the lips, comparative composition 12 (without volatile oils) produces a makeup finish evaluated, according to the protocol of Example 1, as satin and low-transfer. Compared to composition 2

[0219] according to the invention, evaluated as glossy and non-transferable (which differs from comparative composition 12 only by the presence of volatile oils), this comparative product confirms the importance of volatile oils in obtaining a product with the desired glossy and non-transferable properties.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of: • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), • branched dextrin esters, • and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), a volatile oil, and possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof; in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol dimer, on ethylenediamine;the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.; 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to the materials is in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the total content of volatile oil(s), in particular volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), in the composition of the invention is from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 12% to 35%, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, preferably a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (II b) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is solid, and preferably further comprises at least one oil-phase structuring agent, selected in particular from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said cosmetic composition does not comprise alkylcellulose, in particular does not comprise ethylcellulose.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

12. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

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