Fermented extract of aerial parts of anthyllis

Abstract

The present invention relates to a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria and to the method for obtaining same. The invention also relates to the use of a fermented extract of Anthyllis vulneraria for treating / preventing skin dryness and / or for improving the barrier function of the skin.

Description

Description Title: Fermented Extract of Anthyllis Aerial Parts technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria, its method of obtaining it, a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing it, and various cosmetic uses. Previous technique

[0002] The skin is mainly made up of three layers, namely, starting from the most superficial, the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.

[0003] The epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes, melanocytes (responsible for skin pigmentation), and Langerhans cells. Its function is to protect the body from the external environment and ensure its integrity, specifically by inhibiting the penetration of microorganisms or chemical substances and preventing the evaporation of water from the skin.

[0004] To achieve this, keratinocytes undergo a continuous, directional maturation process during which keratinocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis, at the terminal stage of their differentiation, form corneocytes. These are dead cells that are completely keratinized into corneal envelopes composed of proteins and lipids such as ceramides. During this differentiation process, intercorneocyte epidermal lipids are also formed and then organized into bilayers (sheets) within the stratum corneum. These lipids, along with the aforementioned corneal envelopes, contribute to the barrier function of the epidermis.

[0005] The skin's barrier function can be disrupted under certain climatic conditions (such as cold and / or wind), or due to stress, fatigue, or aging. Disruptions to the skin's barrier function facilitate the penetration of allergens, irritants, or microorganisms, leading directly to skin dryness, often accompanied by discomfort such as tightness or redness.

[0006] To prevent or correct this phenomenon, it is known to apply moisturizing cosmetic compositions containing hygroscopic agents, such as sugars or polyols, to the skin, designed to capture the water present in the skin and thus slow down its evaporation.

[0007] Due to an ever-increasing desire among consumers to turn to natural products containing as few synthetic ingredients as possible, and in view of the increasingly heavy regulatory constraints on compounds from the chemical industry, moisturizing agents derived from plant extracts are now preferred.

[0008] There is a real need for new plant-based moisturizing agents that can effectively combat skin dryness and improve the skin's barrier function. Summary

[0009] The applicant has now demonstrated that an extract of the aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria possesses remarkable moisturizing properties. This extract is unique in that it is a fermented extract, meaning it is obtained through an extraction process that includes a fermentation step. As demonstrated in this application, such an extract contains numerous molecules highly valued in cosmetics, such as organic acids and flavonoids, and promotes epidermal differentiation, thereby improving the skin's barrier function.

[0010] Also, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an extract of fermented aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria.

[0011] Such an extract is likely to be obtained by an extraction process comprising a fermentation step of an extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria with a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0012] The present invention therefore also relates to a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria that can be obtained by a process comprising a step of fermentation of an extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria by a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0013] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria.

[0014] Finally, the invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria to treat / prevent skin dryness and / or to improve the skin barrier function. Brief description of the figures Fig. 1

[0015] [Fig. 1] shows the expression of keratin 1 (KRT1) and keratin 10 (KRT10) in differentiated keratinocytes (n=3). Detailed description of the invention

[0016] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria. This extract can be obtained by a process comprising a fermentation step of an extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria with a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0017] Kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria), also known as Alpine tea, is a short-lived annual or perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the Fabaceae family. It is a low-growing plant, reaching 20 to 60 cm in height, spreading as a ground cover. It has dense rosettes of dark green leaves covered in silky hairs. Its inflorescences are yellow-orange, grouped in heads with a woolly calyx, appearing from May to August, and until September at higher altitudes. It is a sun-loving species that grows in sunny locations, often by the sea and in dry meadows, mountain grasslands and wooded areas. It has a wide altitudinal range, up to 3200m, and a high tolerance to cold and drought.

[0018] With its rapid growth and deep root system, it ensures the rapid stabilization of the topsoil. A pioneer plant, it can thrive in substrates poor in organic matter and colonize degraded land. Like all legumes, its ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen can quickly enrich the soil, thus promoting the growth of other plants.

[0019] There are many subspecies of Anthyllis vulneraria including Anthyllis vulneraria L. subsp. alpestris (Kit.) Asch. & Gr., Anthyllis vulneraria L. subsp. bocsii, Anthyllis vulneraria L. subsp. maritima, Anthyllis vulneraria L. subsp. rubrifolia or Anthyllis vulneraria L. subsp. vulneraria.

[0020] The extract according to the present invention is an extract obtained from the aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria, that is, an extract obtained from the flowers, leaves, stems, or a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the extract is an extract of flowering aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria, that is, in which the extracted aerial parts include the flowers. Preferably, the aerial parts used are a mixture of flowers, leaves, and stems of Anthyllis vulneraria.

[0021] The term "fermented extract" here refers to an extract that has undergone a fermentation step. In the context of the present invention, this fermentation step is carried out with a yeast, preferably with a yeast of the genus Saccharomyces, and even more preferably with a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the fermentation step is carried out with only one type of microorganism, typically only with yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, and more particularly with only one species, or one variety of yeast.

[0023] Yeasts of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae are well-known and widely used in the food industry, particularly in breadmaking and for the fermentation of alcoholic beverages, for example in the field of oenology. Those skilled in the art know how to obtain such yeasts to implement the present invention.

[0024] In one particular embodiment, the yeast belongs to the variety Saccharomyces cerevisiae galactose-, previously referred to as "Saccharomyces cerevisiae var. bayanus". Such yeasts are described as belonging to the genus Saccharomyces cerevisiae and as being unable to metabolize galactose ("galactose-"). Saccharomyces cerevisiae galactose- is of particular interest in the fermentation of sparkling wines such as Champagne. According to this embodiment, the yeast may be selected from the yeast strains marketed by the Institut Oenologique de Champagne under the references IOC Fizz+™, ICC Divine™, ICC 18-2007™, or a mixture thereof. All of these The strains are referenced by the French Institute of Vine and Wine and are easily accessible to those in the trade.

[0025] The IOC Fizz+ yeast strain TMThis strain can be obtained from the Champagne Oenological Institute. It is very commonly used in the fermentation of sparkling wines, and all its characteristics are available in the technical data sheet entitled "IOC FIZZ + ACTIVE DRY YEASTS" provided by the Champagne Oenological Institute. This strain also corresponds to a mixture of yeasts deposited on February 9, 2018, with the CNCM (National Collection of Microorganism Cultures, 25 / 28 rue du docteur ROUX, F-75724 Paris Cedex 15) under the Budapest Treaty, under numbers CNCM 1-5271 and CNCM I-5272.

[0026] The IOC Divine™ strain can be obtained from the Champagne Oenological Institute. This strain is very commonly used in the fermentation of sparkling wines, and all its characteristics are available in the technical data sheet entitled "IOC DIVINE ACTIVE DRY YEASTS" provided by the Champagne Oenological Institute. This strain also corresponds to the yeast strain deposited on February 9, 2018, with the CNCM (National Collection of Microorganism Cultures, 25 / 28 rue du docteur ROUX, F-75724 Paris Cedex 15) under the Budapest Treaty, under number CNCM I-5273.

[0027] The IOC 18-2007™ strain can be obtained from the Champagne Oenological Institute. This strain is very commonly used in the fermentation of sparkling wines, and all its characteristics are available in the technical data sheet entitled "IOC 18-2007 ACTIVE DRY YEASTS" provided by the Champagne Oenological Institute. This strain also corresponds to the yeast strain deposited on May 17, 2018, with the CNCM (National Collection of Microorganism Cultures, 25 / 28 rue du docteur ROUX, F-75724 Paris Cedex 15) under the Budapest Treaty, under number CNCM I-5320.

[0028] The yeast strains used in the context of the present invention may be in dry form, in liquid form or in the form of yeast cream.

[0029] In one particular embodiment, the Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain is in dry form.

[0030] Typically, the fermentation step is carried out using the Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain at between 1 and 5% by mass relative to the solution to be fermented, particularly at between 2 and 3% by mass relative to the solution to be fermented, and more particularly at 2% by mass relative to the solution to be fermented.

[0031] In one particular embodiment, the fermentation step can be carried out using a starter. This starter is prepared from an extract of the aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria fermented with the Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain. The extract used for the starter typically has a dry matter content of around 5 to 30%, preferably around 15%.

[0032] According to this embodiment, the fermentation step is carried out by adding this starter to the extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria. The use of a starter allows the fermentation to begin and thus improves the kinetics of the fermentation step.

[0033] Typically, sourdough starter is prepared by fermenting an extract of the aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria, comprising between 5 and 30% (particularly between 10 and 20% dry matter) in water with 10% by weight of dried Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast, for about 1 hour at room temperature. One to five percent of this starter by weight, preferably 2% by weight, is added to the Anthyllis vulneraria aerial parts extract for the fermentation stage.

[0034] The fermentation step is carried out over a period of 1 to 5 days, typically 2 to 3 days. Advantageously, the fermentation step is carried out over a period that allows for the utilization of all the fermentable sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose) present in the extract.

[0035] The extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria used to obtain the fermented extract according to the invention can be obtained by any extraction process known to those skilled in the art. Typically, a process for preparing a plant extract comprises the following steps:

[0036] a) extraction of the plant (here aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria) with at least one alcoholic solvent and / or water;

[0037] b) the filtration, for example by sieving, of the mixture obtained in a) in order to remove plant residues,

[0038] c) optionally, the decolorization of the mixture obtained at the end of step b;

[0039] d) the concentration of the extract and the removal of the solvent; and

[0040] e) optionally dissolving the concentrated extract obtained at the end of step d) in water.

[0041] In order to obtain the fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria according to the present invention, a step f) will typically be added after steps a) to e) above, this step f) comprising the fermentation of the extract obtained at the end of step e) with a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0042] The plant used in step a) can be in "fresh" form, i.e., be used within 48 hours, particularly within 24 hours, and even more particularly within 12 hours following harvest.

[0043] The plant used in step a) may also be in dried form. In this case, the fresh plant is dehydrated under mild conditions, either at room temperature protected from light or in a ventilated dryer at a temperature below 45°C. The plant is preferably dried to a dry matter content greater than 80% and preferably greater than 85%.

[0044] The plant, in fresh or dried form, can advantageously be ground to obtain particles of less than 5 cm in size, preferably less than 2 cm.

[0045] The extraction step is carried out using at least one extraction solvent consisting of an alcoholic solvent and / or water. The plant-to-solvent ratio is typically 1 to 10. (weight / weight). The extraction solvent can contain from 0 to 100% by volume of water and from 0 to 100% by volume of alcoholic solvent.

[0046] In one particular embodiment, the extraction solvent is 96° ethanol.

[0047] The extraction stage lasts at least 1 hour, preferably about 2 hours, and can be repeated once or twice.

[0048] When repeated, the extraction step typically includes recovering the spent grains obtained after an extraction, for example by filtration, and extracting these grains under the same conditions as the previous extraction. The liquid phases obtained after the extractions are then mixed for filtration in step b).

[0049] Step b) allows for the removal of plant residues with a size greater than 10pm, preferably greater than 7pm, and even more preferably greater than 4pm.

[0050] The yield of dry extract relative to raw material expected at the end of step b) is typically between 8 and 10%, typically 8.5%.

[0051] As mentioned above, the extraction process may include a step in which the mixture from step b) is decolorized. This step aims to remove pigments present in the extract, such as chlorophylls and xanthophylls. Those skilled in the art are familiar with several methods for removing these pigments. Decolorization can, for example, be carried out by bringing the mixture into contact with activated carbon. The carbon is typically added in proportions of approximately 30 to 50%, preferably around 40% by weight relative to the dry extract. Once decolorization has been completed, the mixture is filtered to remove any carbon residue. The expected yield of dry extract relative to the raw material at the end of step c) is typically between 8 and 10%.

[0052] Step d) aims to concentrate the extract and remove the extraction solvent. Typically, step d) involves concentrating the extract so that it loses between 75 and 85% of its volume. This concentration step is typically carried out by evaporating the extraction solvent (alcoholic solvent and / or water). This extraction can, for example, be performed under vacuum.

[0053] The process may then advantageously include a step e) in which the concentrated extract obtained in step d) is dissolved in water, for example demineralized water. This dissolution is carried out so as to obtain a dry matter content of about 10 to 20% in water, preferably 12 to 15%.

[0054] When the extraction solvent used in step a) includes an alcoholic solvent, the level of the latter in the aqueous concentrated extract obtained at the end of step e) is advantageously less than 0.5%.

[0055] The extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria from step d) or from step e) where present, i.e. the concentrated extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria possibly dissolved in water, can be used to prepare the sourdough mentioned above.

[0056] The process described above may further include, at the end of step d) or step e) where present, the filtration of the concentrated extract and possibly dissolved in water (typically at 7pm, or even 4pm).

[0057] The extract can advantageously be diluted in demineralized water to achieve a dry matter percentage of about 3 to 12%, preferably 5 to 7%, before being subjected to the fermentation of step f)

[0058] In a particular embodiment, the process for obtaining the fermented extract of Anthyllis vulneraria according to the present invention comprises the following steps:

[0059] a) Dried flowering aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria crushed are extracted in ethanol at 96°C for 2h at 50°C, the plant / solvent ratio is 1 to 10 (weight / weight);

[0060] a') the spent grains obtained at the end of step a) are extracted in ethanol at 96°C for 2h at 50°C, the ratio spent grains / solvent is 1 to 10 (weight / weight), the liquid phases from steps a) and a') are mixed;

[0061] b) The mixture is filtered down to 4 µm;

[0062] c) the extract resulting from step b) is subjected to decolorization by contact with activated carbon for 3 hours, then undergoes filtration down to 4 µm in order to remove carbon residues;

[0063] d) the extract is then concentrated by evaporation, under vacuum, of approximately 80% of its volume;

[0064] e) the concentrated extract dissolved in demineralized water until a dry matter content of 12 to 15% (weight / weight) is reached;

[0065] e') the dissolved concentrated extract is filtered at 4pm;

[0066] f) fermentation for 2 to 3 days at 37°C of the extract from step e'), said extract being diluted to achieve a dry matter percentage of 5 to 7% by weight, with a starter, said starter having been obtained by mixing a part (for example 2%) of the extract obtained at the end of step e') with a quantity (for example 10%) of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for 1 hour at 37°C;

[0067] (g) The fermented extract is then filtered at 4 pm to remove yeasts, and then diluted to obtain an extract containing 1 to 10% dry matter by weight in water and 1,3-propanediol (1% dry extract / 69% water / 30% 1,3-propanediol, weight / weight ratio).

[0068] The fermented extract according to the present invention exhibits remarkable moisturizing properties. As demonstrated in the examples below, it significantly stimulates epidermal differentiation, thereby strengthening the skin's barrier function.

[0069] By "strengthening the skin's barrier function," we mean ensuring that the skin's barrier function is maintained at a minimum level of effectiveness corresponding to its normal level of efficacy—that is, the level at which it performs its protective function for the body. Maintaining a good skin barrier function helps treat / prevent the signs of dry skin.

[0070] The term "signs of dry skin" refers to all changes in the skin's external appearance due to dehydration of the epidermis, such as a dull, rough, non-silky, reddish, and / or flaky appearance, as well as loss of elasticity and a decrease in skin thickness. In severe cases, signs of dry skin include sensations associated with dryness, such as itching, tingling, and / or tightness.

[0071] By "treating and / or preventing the signs of dry skin", we therefore mean strengthening, preserving and / or restoring the epidermal barrier, in particular its protective or regulatory function, increasing epidermal resistance to aggressive agents, improving and / or strengthening the structure of the epidermis, increasing its thickness, and / or guaranteeing skin integrity.

[0072] Also, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria to treat / prevent signs of dry skin and / or to improve the skin barrier function.

[0073] The extract according to the present invention can advantageously be incorporated into a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Furthermore, according to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria according to the invention.

[0074] Preferably, the fermented extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration of 0.001 to 10% by total weight of the composition, in particular at a concentration of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may, in particular, be suitable for topical application.

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in the form of a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, preferably for the face.

[0076] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may include a solvent chosen according to the different ingredients and the form of administration.

[0077] Examples include water (preferably demineralized water or floral waters) or an alcohol such as ethanol.

[0078] The said cosmetic composition may also include, in addition to the fermented extract according to the invention, at least one additive commonly used in the field, such as, for example, at least one compound selected from an emollient or humectant agent, a gelling and / or thickening agent, a surfactant, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen, and a perfume.

[0079] Humectants are typically chosen from polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters; and polyquaterniums such as lipidide PMB. A humectant will typically be present in the composition at a concentration of approximately 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.005 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0080] Emollient agents can be chosen, for example, from esters such as jojoba esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate, isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (butyrospermum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters, marketed under the names LIPEX® SHEASOFT, LIPEX® SHEA-U, LIPEX® SHEA, LIPEX® SHEALIGHT, LIPEX® SHEA TRIS) or moringa butter (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed wax, C10-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, and alkanes (undecane, tridecane). An emollient agent will typically be present in the composition at a content of approximately 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0081] The gelling and / or thickening agents of the aqueous phase are chosen, for example, from cellulosic derivatives, gums of vegetable origin (guar, locust bean gum, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan gum), clays (laponite), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, hydrophilic or amphiphilic homo- and copolymers of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (marketed under the names ARISTOFLEX® AVC, Aristoflex® AVS, Aristoflex® HMB, SIMULGEL® NS, Simulgel® EG, Simulgel® 600, Simulgel® 800, Pemulen™, carbopol®, Sepiplus® 400, Seppimax® zen, Sepiplus® S, COSMEDIA® SP). A gelling and / or thickening agent will typically be present in the composition at a content of approximately 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0082] Surfactants include, in particular:

[0083] - anionic surfactants such as isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, glycinates, glutamates, phosphates (C20-22 alkyl phosphate marketed under the name SENSANOV™ WR);

[0084] - amphoteric surfactants such as betaine derivatives, amphoacetates;

[0085] - non-ionic surfactants such as polyglycerol derivatives, sugar derivatives (glucoside or xyloside derivatives marketed under the name MONTANOV® 68, MONTANOV® 202, Montanov® 82, MONTANOV® L, EASYNOV®), lecithins.

[0086] The surfactant will typically be present in a concentration of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Film-forming agents such as naturally derived polymers, possibly modified, may be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (acacia Senegal gum), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® marketed by Silab), and mixtures thereof. The film-forming agent will typically be present at a concentration of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Coloring agents are typically chosen from pigments, pearlescent pigments, and soluble dyes, preferably water-soluble. Pigments can be white or colored. Mineral and / or organic pigments. Mineral pigments can be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron, or chromium oxides, and titanium dioxide. Pearlescent pigments can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Water-soluble dyes can be chosen from FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, and FDC Blue 1. The colouring agent will typically be present in a content of approximately 0.01 to 20%, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The bulking agents include lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, and silica. The bulking agent will typically be present in a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The active ingredients include agents of natural, biotechnological, or synthetic origin that have biological activity and exert their effects on the skin via biological sites. Examples include vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, marketed under the names NP RIGIN®, MATRIXYL® 3000, IDEALIFT®, EYESERYL®), and plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereale seed). extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.The active agent will typically be present in the composition at a concentration of approximately 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0091] Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, including preservatives, antioxidants or perfumes well known in the technical field.

[0092] A person skilled in the art is able to choose, from among all these possible additives, both the type and the quantity of those to be added to the composition, so that it retains all of its properties.

[0093] The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Examples

[0094] Example 1: Preparation of a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria

[0095] 1) 100g of dried flowering aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria are crushed.

[0096] 2) The dried, crushed plant is extracted in 1000g of ethanol at 96°C under stirring for 2h at 50°C in a glass flask.

[0097] 3) The mixture is sieved at 100 µm, the spent grains are recovered and the ethanolic extract (1) is set aside.

[0098] 4) The spent grains are extracted again in 1000g of new ethanol at 96° under the same conditions.

[0099] 5) The mixture is sieved at 50 µm, the spent grains are removed and the ethanolic extract (2) is combined with the extract (1).

[0100] 6) The extract is then filtered at 4pm.

[0101] Control: The filtered extract is weighed and a dry matter measurement is taken. The expected dry extract yield relative to the raw material is approximately 8.5%.

[0102] 7) The alcoholic extract is decolorized with activated charcoal (mass of charcoal = 40% of the mass of dry extract) under agitation at room temperature for 3 hours.

[0103] 8) The extract is filtered at 4pm to remove the activated carbon.

[0104] Control: A dry matter measurement is carried out. The expected dry extract yield relative to the raw material is approximately 8.5%.

[0105] 9) The extract is then concentrated by evaporation, under vacuum little by little, of about 80% of its volume (the extract must remain liquid).

[0106] 10) The concentrated extract is taken up in a quantity of demineralized water in order to achieve a dry matter of about 15% in water, and the rest of the ethanol is evaporated. [01071 Control: an ethanol determination is carried out. The ethanol content in the aqueous concentrated extract must be less than 0.5%.

[0108] 11) The extract is then filtered at 4pm, after decanting in the fridge overnight (formation of a cold precipitate against the walls).

[0109] Control: A dry matter measurement is taken. The expected dry extract percentage is 12%-15%. Dilute with demineralized water / concentrate if necessary.

[0110] 12) To prepare the sourdough starter, 2% of the aqueous extract is taken, to which 10% by mass of yeast (trade name Fizz+ yeast) is added. TM (supplier ICC). The extract is shaken at room temperature for 1 hour to rehydrate the yeast.

[0111] 13) The remaining aqueous extract is diluted in demineralized water to achieve a dry matter percentage of approximately 5%-7%.

[0112] 14) The sourdough starter is inoculated into the extract at 5-7% dry extract.

[0113] 15) The extract is stirred at room temperature for fermentation of all fermentable sugars, for about two to three days.

[0114] Control: a sugar analysis is carried out.

[0115] 16) The extract is then filtered at 4 µm for the removal of yeast (yeast size between 6 and 8 µm).

[0116] Control: a dry matter measurement is carried out. The expected dry extract yield after sugar fermentation is 3.98%.

[0117] 17) The extract is diluted to 1% dry extract in 69% demineralized water and 30% 1,3-propanediol.

[0118] 18) The extract is finally filtered at 0.2 µm for sterilization and weighs 395g.

[0119] The major compounds present in the fermented extract thus obtained were analyzed and compared to a conventional, unfermented extract. The conventional extract contains 47% sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), whereas the extract according to the invention is completely devoid of them.

[0120] The extract according to the invention contains various families of metabolites, the flavonols, including glucosylated derivatives of quercetin, rhamnocitrin, isorhamnetin, and kaempferol. These compounds represent approximately 0.1 to 0.2% of the material, or about 10 to 20% of the dry extract according to the invention, and are present at half the concentration found in conventional extracts. Saponins are also present in the extract.

[0121] Example 2: Stimulation of the expression of epidermal differentiation markers. Activation of differentiation genes in normal human keratinocytes treated with a fermented extract of Anthyllis.

[0122] Keratinocytes are the cells that make up the epidermis of the skin. The epidermis is divided into several layers, each characterized by keratinocytes at different stages of differentiation. The keratinocytes of the basal layer (the innermost layer) are proliferative and undifferentiated, while the outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is composed of keratinocytes at the latest stage of differentiation; these are called corneocytes. This differentiation process ensures the skin's impermeability and barrier function. During this differentiation process, morphological and molecular changes occur in the keratinocytes, which then express new markers such as keratin I and keratin I0. Stimulating this differentiation process in the skin thus strengthens the epidermis's barrier function.

[0123] Protocol: Primary human keratinocytes, isolated from skin biopsies of three different donors, were amplified in two dimensions in KGM-2 medium (Lonza) for 7 days at 37°C, 5% CO2. The keratinocytes were then seeded in 6-well plates and maintained in KGM-2 medium supplemented with 1.2 mM calcium to induce cell differentiation. 24 hours later, the cells were incubated, or not (control), with 0.3% fermented Anthyllis extract according to the present invention in KGM-2 medium supplemented with 1.2 mM calcium for 72 hours. The cultures were then stopped, and the RNA was extracted using an RNeasy Plus extraction kit (QIAGEN) following the manufacturer's recommendations. cDNAs were synthesized and the expression of genes encoding keratin 1 and keratin 10 – early markers of epidermal differentiation – was analyzed by PCR (nuclear antibody-dependent protein synthesis). quantitative polymerase. Statistical analyses are performed on the results obtained from 3 different donors (n=3) and normalized with respect to the control condition.

[0124] Results: The fermented Anthyllis extract according to the present invention stimulates KRT1 expression by a factor of 1.7 and KRT10 expression by a factor of 2 in a differentiated keratinocyte model (see Figure 1). The extract stimulates the expression of epidermal differentiation markers in keratinocytes in vitro and thus helps maintain and / or strengthen the skin barrier function.

[0125] Example 3: Cosmetic composition

[0126] The following compositions can be prepared in the conventional manner by a person skilled in the art. The quantities indicated below are expressed as percentages by weight. Ingredients in capital letters are identified according to their INCI names.

[0127] A. Oil / water emulsion

[0128] [Table 1]

[0129] B. Gelled oil / water emulsion

[0130] [Table 2]

Claims

Demands

1. Fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria obtainable by a process comprising a fermentation step of an extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria with a yeast of the variety Saccharomyces cerevisiae galactose

2. Extract according to claim 1, wherein said extract is an extract of flowering aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria.

3. A process for obtaining a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria, said process comprising the following steps: a. the extraction of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria with at least one alcoholic solvent and / or water; b. the filtration of the mixture obtained in a) in order to remove plant residues; c. optionally, the decolorization of the mixture obtained at the end of step b; d. the concentration of the extract and the removal of the solvent; e. optionally the dissolution of the concentrated extract obtained at the end of step d) in water; and f. fermentation of the extract obtained by a yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

4. A method according to claim 3, wherein the fermentation step is carried out using a starter prepared from the fermentation of an extract of Anthyllis vulneraria with the strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

5. A method according to claim 3 or 4, wherein said yeast belonging to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae is of the variety Saccharomyces cerevisiae galactose

6. Cosmetic composition comprising a fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria according to claim 1 or 2.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the fermented extract of aerial parts of Anthyllis vulneraria according to claim 1 or 2 to treat / prevent skin dryness and / or to improve the skin barrier function.

Images