Translucent emulsion

The translucent W/O emulsion addresses the discomfort of traditional W/O emulsions by offering a silky texture and effective skin care benefits, enhancing skin hydration and reducing signs of aging.

WO2026017564A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-01-22UNILEVER IP HLDG BV +2
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2025/069820
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-07-19
Filing Date
2025-07-10
Publication Date
2026-01-22

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions are uncomfortable due to a greasy, heavy, and sticky feeling, making them unsuitable for summer use or hot climates, and they do not provide freshness or contribute to skin care benefits like hydration and anti-aging.

Method used

A translucent W/O emulsion with specific ratios of aqueous and oil phases, including nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 3.5 to 12, and a translucency of 30 to 70, containing water-soluble actives and functional elastomers, providing excellent skin-feel properties and skin care benefits.

Benefits of technology

The emulsion offers a silky, easily absorbed texture and delivers skin hydration, improved barrier function, reduced inflammation, even skin tone, and reduced fine lines and wrinkles, while maintaining translucency.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

A water-in-oil emulsion such that the aqueous phase has at least one water-soluble active and the oil phase comprises a functional elastomer, an oil, and a non-ionic emulsifier, wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UV Vis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400-700 nm.
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Description

[0001] TRANSLUCENT EMULSION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The present application is directed to a translucent emulsion and a method of using the same.

[0004] Background of the Invention

[0005] Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions comprise an aqueous phase is dispersed in an oily phase. W / O emulsions include a continuous oily phase and thus make it possible to form, on the surface of the skin, a lipid film which prevents transepidermal water loss and protects the skin from external elements including atmospheric pollutants like sulfates, nitrates, and various hydrocarbons. These emulsions are particularly appropriate for protecting and nourishing the skin and in particular for treating dry skin. Certain consumers conclude that W / O emulsions exhibit the disadvantage of being uncomfortable because of the greasy, heavy, and sometimes even sticky feeling contributed by this external fatty phase which remains on the skin. Furthermore, such emulsions do not contribute freshness and are generally too rich in oil to be used during the summer or in hot climates.

[0006] Accordingly, described herein is a translucent W / O emulsion that yields excellent skin-feel properties upon use, has a blurring effect, and can provide skin care benefits such as excellent skin hydration, improved skin barrier, reduced inflammation / skin stress, even skin tone, reduced skin dullness, and reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

[0007] Summary of the Invention

[0008] In a first aspect, the invention is directed to a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising: (a) from 0.9 wt% to 35 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, most preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, comprising at least one water-soluble active; and (b) from 64.9 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably, from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and most preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least 40 wt%, preferably, from 40 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably from 45 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 50 wt% to to 10 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably, from 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, based on the weight of the emulsion, with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8; and wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UWis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400- 700 nm.

[0009] In a second aspect, the invention is directed to a method of treating the skin with the W / O emulsion as described herein. Also described herein, is a method of applying to the skin the W / O emulsion as described herein for obtaining at least one skin benefit.

[0010] In another aspect, the invention is directed to use of the W / O emulsion with skin care benefit agents to create a translucent emulsion.

[0011] In yet another aspect, the invention is directed to use of the translucent W / O emulsion that produces excellent skin-feel properties.

[0012] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent from the description and examples which follow.

[0013] Detailed Description of the Invention

[0014] Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

[0015] All amounts are by weight of any of the emulsions or components thereof, unless otherwise specified. It should be noted that in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.

[0016] For the avoidance of doubt, the term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. Therefore, the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. The disclosure, as found herein, is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

[0017] “Skin”, as used herein, includes skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms (including underarms), axilla, buttocks, hands, legs and scalp.

[0018] “Skin care benefit”, as used herein, refers to an improvement in a facial or body characteristic after topical application, for example, even skin tone such as skin brightening and / or glow, skin texture such as reduction in wrinkles, fine lines and / or age spots, dry skin, anti-acne or the like. A “skin care benefit agent” can be used to address these skin care benefits.

[0019] “Skin-feel properties”, as used herein, refers to the sensation of applying the emulsion to the skin, such as glides easily across the skin (e.g., highly spreadable), does not feel greasy or tacky but instead a silky feel and is quickly absorbed into the skin.

[0020] As used herein, “substantially free of’ refers to having less than 3 wt%, or less than 1 wt%, or less than 0.5 wt%, or less than 0.1 wt%, or less than 0.01 wt% of the compound, by weight of the emulsion. In one aspect, “substantially free of’ refers to having from 0.00001 wt% to 1 .5 wt%, or 0.00001 wt% to 1 wt%, or 0.00001 wt% to 0.5 wt% of the compound, by weight of the emulsions preferably free of such compound (e.g., 0.0 wt%).

[0021] In one aspect, a W / O emulsion comprising: (a) from 0.9 wt% to 35 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, most preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, comprising at least one water-soluble active; and (b) from 64.9 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably, from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and most preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least 40 wt%, preferably, from 40 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably from 45 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 50 wt% to 70 wt% of an functional elastomer, and an oil, wherein the emulsion comprises from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably, from 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, based on the weight of the emulsion, with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8; and wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UV Vis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400-700 nm.

[0022] Phase

[0023] The W / O emulsions of the present invention comprise from 0.9 wt% to 35 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, most preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, or a dispersed aqueous phase. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase (e.g., oil phase). The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion of small aqueous particles or droplets (e.g., from 1 to 50 microns) suspended in and surrounded by the continuous oil phase described herein. The aqueous phase comprises water and at least one water-soluble active. In one aspect, the emulsion comprises from 1 wt% to 27 wt%, preferably, from 5 wt% to 27 wt%, more preferably, from 7 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably, from 10 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%, and even more preferably, from 10 wt% to 15 wt% of water, by weight of the emulsion. In one aspect, water-soluble and / or water dispersible ingredient in the aqueous phase (other than water) can be from 0.001 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably, from 0.01 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 50 wt%, based on the weight of the aqueous phase.

[0024] As described herein, the aqueous phase has at least one water-soluble active. The water- soluble active may be a water-soluble vitamin, such as vitamin B1 and its precursors or derivatives (such as thiamine), vitamin B3 and its precursors or derivatives (such as niacinamide); vitamin B5 and its precursors or derivatives (such as panthenol and its precursors or derivatives), vitamin B7, vitamin B9; vitamin C and its precursors or derivatives (such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate); and alpha lipoic acid. When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt% or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, and most preferably, from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt%, or from 0.5 wt% to 3.5 wt%, or from 1 wt% to 3.5 wt%, of each of such ingredients, based on the total weight of the emulsion. The water-soluble active may also be a water-soluble sunscreen. Examples of water-soluble sunscreens include terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine. When used, the total amount of water- soluble sunscreens is from 0 wt% to 12 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 12 wt%, or from 0 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0025] Additional water-soluble actives may be carboxymethyl cysteine compounds. The carboxymethyl cysteine compound refers to compound selected from carboxymethyl cysteine, salt of carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, amide of carboxymethyl cysteine or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, and / or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. More preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, and / or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Even more preferably, carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Still even more preferably the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and most preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate.

[0026] Further water-soluble actives include allantoin, pyroglutamic acid (PCA) and salts thereof including zinc PCA and sodium PCA, kojic acid, saccharide isomerate, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof. When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt% or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, and most preferably, from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt% or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt% by weight of each of such ingredients are used, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] Non-limiting examples of other optional water-soluble ingredients that may be included in the aqueous phase include but are not limited to thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelants, gums, humectants, buffers, and preservatives. Oil Phase

[0028] The W / O emulsions of the present invention comprise from 64.9 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably, from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and most preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least 40 wt%, preferably, from 40 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably from 45 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 50 wt% to 70 wt% of an functional elastomer, and an oil.

[0029] Examples of suitable oils in the oil phase include linear or branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 34 carbons, triglycerides, ester oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids with from 10 to 28 carbons preferably, with a melting point of <30 °C, preferably, < 25°C, and / or silicone materials and / or combinations thereof, preferably, linear or branched alkanes, ester oils, and / or triglycerides. In one aspect, the emulsion comprises from 1 wt% to 50 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 40 wt%, more preferably, from 7 wt% to 35 wt%, even more preferably, from 10 wt% to 35 wt%, and most preferably, from 25 wt% to 35 wt%, of the suitable oil(s) based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0030] Linear or branched alkanes comprising 8 to 34 carbons may include isohexadecane, a C10- 13 alkane, a C12-C17 alkane, a C13-C15 alkane, a C15-19 alkane (e.g., Emogreen™ L15), a C14-C22 alkane, a C18-21 alkane, and / or squalane, preferably isohexadecane and / or a C15-C19 alkane.

[0031] Triglycerides (animal and / or vegetable) may include oils such as soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, safflower oil, fish oil or mixtures thereof. In one aspect, caprylic capric triglyceride is a preferred oil for use in the emulsion.

[0032] Ester oils may include isocetyl stearate, octyl dodecyl myristate, butyl octyl salicylate, isostearyl isostearate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and / or isopropyl palmitate, preferably, isopropyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, more preferably, isodecyl neopentanoate. Suitable fatty acids include fatty acids with from 10 to 28 carbons, preferably with a melting point of <30 °C, preferably, < 25°C, including but not limited to isostearyl acid and oleic acid. Suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl, lauryl, myristyl, palmitic, cetearyl, stearyl, isostearyl, and oleyl alcohols and octyldodecanol.

[0033] Silicone materials of liquid, solid, or semi-solid consistency at room temperature may optionally be included in the emulsion described herein. Liquid silicones include silicone oils which may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably, from 4 to 5, silicon atoms, preferably, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclohexasiloxane (D6), hexamethyldisiloxane, and / or mixtures thereof. Nonvolatile silicones include nonvolatile silicone oils such as polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers, including dimethicones and caprylyl methicone, and silicone waxes such as dimethicone copolyol laurate. Solid silicones may include polymethylsilsesquioxane (PSQ). In one aspect, the total amount of silicone materials is from 0.01 wt% to 6 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.5 wt% to 5%, or from 1 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 1 .5 wt% to 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0034] In one aspect the emulsion is substantially free of volatile silicones. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of D5. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of silicone acrylates comprising at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of solid silicones.

[0035] In one aspect, the term “elastomer” refers to an "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is a deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to regain its original shape after stretching. Such elastomer may be “nonfunctional elastomers” or “functional elastomers”. The emulsion comprises at least one functional elastomer and, optionally, a non-functional elastomer. The term “functional elastomers” contain at least one hydrophilic chain. Preferably, functional elastomers used herein have a structure of A-B-A, where polymers (“A”) are connected by crosslinkers (“B”), as defined below: wherein x is from 15 to 40, preferably, from 15 to 30, more preferably, from 15 to 25, most preferably, x is 20; and wherein y and z are each are from 0 to 500, or from 0 to 250, or from 0 to 100, or from 0 to 50, from 1 to 500, or from 1 to 250, or from 1 to 100, or from 1 to 50.

[0036] In one aspect, the combination of y and z total from 0 to 1000, or from 0 to 500, or from 0 to

[0037] 250, or from 0 to 100, or from 1 to 1000, or from 1 to 500, or from 1 to 250, or from 1 to 100.

[0038] For avoidance of doubt, and illustrative examples of such functional elastomer is shown below as Structure (I):

[0039] Preferably, functional elastomers are Isohexadecane (and) Dimethicone / Bis-lsobutyl PPG 20

[0040] Crosspolymer, Isododecane (and) Dimethicone / Bis-lsobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and

[0041] Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) Dimethicone / Bis Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer. Non-limiting examples of functional elastomers include elastomer sold under the name "DOWSIL, EL- 8050" (Isododecane and Dimethicone / Bis-lsobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer), "DOWSIL, EL- 8052" (Isohexadecane and Dimethicone / Bis-lsobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer) and "DOWSIL, EL-8051" by the Dow Chemical Company. In one aspect, the weight ratio of functional elastomer to oil is from 4:1 to 1 :1 , preferably, from 3:1 to 1 :1 , more preferably from 2:1 to 1 :1 , most preferably, from 1.5:1 to 1 :1. The term "non-functional elastomers" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chain, and, in particular, not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or polyglyceryl units, such that the viscosity is at least 25,000 mPa s, preferably, from 25,000 to 120,000 mPa s, more preferably, from 27,000 to 120,000 mPa s, and most preferably, from 30,000 to 100,000 mPa s, with viscosity measured with a Discovery HR-2 Rheometer using sand blasted plates with a 1000-micron gap and a shear rate of 10 s-1. at 25°C. Preferably, non-functional elastomers are partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymers such as (dimethicone I phenyl vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone I vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, and / or dimethicone cross polymer Non-limiting examples of non-functional elastomers include DOWSIL Silicone Elastomer Blend such as those conveyed in a non-volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL, 9041" (dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer) and "DOWSIL, EL-9241 DM" by the Dow Chemical Company, as well as those carried in a volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL EL-8040 ID", "DOWSIL EL-9140 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9240 DM", "DOWSIL EL- 9048", "DOWSIL EL-9048", DOWSIL 9040", "DOWSIL 9045" (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), "DOWSIL EB-9586", "DOWSIL 9546" by the Dow Chemical Company. Other non-functional elastomers sold under the names, "KSG-15", "KSG-1510", "USG-1G3", "USG-106", "KSG-16", "KSG-1610", "KSG-18A”, “KSG-19”, “KSG-016F”, KSG- 41 A”, “KSG-42 A”, “KSG-43”, “KSG-44” “KSG-042Z” “SG-045Z”, “KSG Q48Z" by the company Shin Etsu. Other non-functional elastomers are sold under the names “Gransil DM- 10", "Gransil DMAM", "Gransil DMG-20", "Gransil DMG-6", "Gransil PM", "Gransil OHS-5", "Gransil PS-5", "Gl CD-10", "Gl CD-11", “Gransil DMG-3", "Gransil GCM-5", "Gransil GTS", "Gransil G VL", "Gransil GVL-HV", "Gransil IDS-5", "Gransil MLB", "Gransil PC-12”, “Gransil PC-12P”, “Gransil RPS”, “Gransil RPS-D6”, “Gl CD-965”, “Gransil DM-5”, “Gransil DMCM-5”, “Gransil DMDM-25", "Gransil DMDM-35", "Gransil DMID", "Gransil DMT3", "Gransil GAM" by the company Grant Industries. In one aspect the emulsion comprises at least 30 wt%, preferably, from 30 wt% to 70 wt%, and more preferably from 30 wt% to 65 wt%, and even more preferably from 30 wt% to 60 wt%, or from 32 wt% to 58 wt%, of an elastomer, based on the total weight of the emulsion, such that at least 50%, preferably, from 50 wt% to 100%, or from 50 wt% to 95%, or from 50 wt% to 75 wt%, or from 50 wt% to 65 wt%, or 50 wt% or 60 wt%, more preferably, from 60 wt% to 100 wt%, or from 60 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 100 wt%, or from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, or from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, of the total amount of the elastomer is an functional elastomer. In one aspect, the weight ratio of functional elastomer to non-functional elastomer is from 5:1 to 1 :1 , preferably, from 4:1 to 1 :1 , and more preferably from 3:1 to 1 :1 In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of non-functional elastomers.

[0042] The oil phase also includes at least one non-ionic emulsifier with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8. Suitable emulsifiers such as glyceryl laurate, ceteth 2, glyceryl stearate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (Cithrol™ DPHS), cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (Abil® EM 90 or Abil® EM 180), sorbitan palmitate (Span® 40), sorbitan laurate (Span® 20), Bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 5 PEG / PPG- 20 / 5 Dimethicone (and) Methoxy PEG / PPG-25 / 4 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Abil® Care XL 80 MB) and the like. In one aspect, the total amount of nonionic emulsifier is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably, from 0.1 to 5%, more preferably, from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the emulsion. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of anionic and / or cationic emulsifiers.

[0043] The emulsions of the present invention may be translucent as quantified with UV-vis spectroscopy (e.g., PerkinElmer LAMBDA 465 UVA / is Spectrophotometer). For example, to test for translucency, a 0.5 mm pathlength UV quartz demountable cuvette cell (e.g., Type 19, supplied by FireflySci Cuvette Shop) is used in A20 cuvette mount holder, ensuring there are no air bubbles under cover slide, and a translucency value is reported as the average transmittance across the visible spectrum (400 to 700 nm) with measurements taken at ambient laboratory conditions (20-25°C and 5-25% humidity). As used herein, “translucent” refers to a translucency index from 30 to 90, preferably, from 30 to 70.

[0044] Suitable oil-soluble sunscreens include octyl salicylate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2- hydroxy benzoate (“homosalate”), ethylhexyl salicylate (“octisalate”), 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano- 3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoate (“octocrylene”), or 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (also known as octyl methoxycinnamate or “CMC”), 4-t-butyl-4’-methoxydibenzoylmethane (“avobenzone”), 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyl-dibenzoyl-ethane, 4- isopropyldibenzoyl-methane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4’-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4’- methoxy-dibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4’-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane, 2,4- dimethyl-4’-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimehyl-4-tert-butyl-4’methoxy- dibenzoylmethane, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, or methyl anthranilate. Another suitable oil-soluble sunscreen includes Bemotrizinol (BEMT). Additional oil-soluble sunscreens include those commercially available from BASF corporation: Uvinul T-150 (Ethylhexyl triazone; a UV-B sunscreen oil), Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate; a UV-A sunscreen oil), Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; a UV-A and UV-B sunscreen oil), Tinosorb M(methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol; a UV-A and UV-B sunscreen oil), Mexoryl XL, and / or Mexoryl 400. Preferably, the sunscreen is 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (“homosalate”), ethylhexyl salicylate (“octisalate”), 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoate (“octocrylene”), 4-t-butyl-4’-methoxydibenzoylmethane (“avobenzone”), and / or any mixtures of combinations thereof. In one aspect, the total amount of oil-soluble sunscreen is from 1 wt% to 40 wt%, or from 1 wt% to 30 wt%, or from 2 wt% to 35 wt%, or from 1 wt% to 30 wt%, or from 3 wt% to 25 wt%, or from 3 wt% to 20 wt%, from 5 wt% to 30 wt%, or from 5 wt% to 25 wt%, or from 8 wt% to 30 wt%, or from 10 wt% to 25 wt%, or from 5 wt% to 15 wt%, based on the weight of the oil phase. Additionally or alternatively, the emulsion comprises from 1 wt% to 30%, preferably, 3 wt% to 25 wt%, most preferably, from 5 wt% to 25 wt%, of the oil-soluble sunscreen(s), based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0045] Oil-soluble vitamins include vitamin A and its precursors or derivatives including retinoids such as retinol, beta-carotene, retinal, retinoic acid and C2-20 esters of retinol (such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl formate, retinyl acetate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl valerate, retinyl isovalerate, retinyl hexanoate, retinyl heptanoate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl nonanoate, retinyl decanoate, retinyl undecandate, retinyl taurate, retinyl tridecanoate, retinyl myristate, retinyl pentadecanoate, retinyl heptadeconoate, retinyl stearate, retinyl isostearate, retinyl nonadecanoate, retinyl arachidonate, retinyl behenate, retinyl linoleate, and retinyl oleate); vitamin D and its precursors or derivatives, vitamin E and its precursors or derivatives (such as tocopherol, d-alpha-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate); vitamin K and its precursors or derivatives; selenium and its derivatives (such as L-selenomethionine). When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt%, or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt%, by weight of each of such ingredients, based on the total weight of the emulsion. A resorcinol, which is a monohydroxy phenol compound (i.e., 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene or 1 ,3- benzenediol) characterized by alcohol groups (—OH) at positions 1 and 3. The chemical structure of resorcinols may be modified, resulting in substituted resorcinols characterized by at least one substituent in the 2, 4, 5 or 6 position. Substituted, as used herein, refers to a compound in which one or more hydrogen atoms are replaced by another atom or group, e.g., substituent. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol comprises at least one substituent comprising 5 to 11 carbon atoms, or 5 to 9 carbon atoms. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol has at least one substituent comprised of an alkyl group or unsaturated alkyl group.

[0046] In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol is only substituted at position 4 with an alkyl group, e.g., the substituted resorcinol is a 4-substituted alkyl resorcinol, including but not limited to 4-methyl resorcinol, 4-ethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-propyl resorcinol, 4-isopropyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, 4-pentyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-heptyl resorcinol, 4- cycloheptyl resorcinol, 4-octyl resorcinol, 4-cyclooctyl resorcinol, 4-nonyl resorcinol, 4-decyl resorcinol, 4-undecyl resorcinol, 4-dodecyl resorcinol and / or combinations or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the substituted resorcinol is 4-ethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, and 4- isopropylresorcinol. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol is substituted at position 4 with a substituted or unsubstituted 5- or 6-membered ring carbon-based heterocyclic ring containing one or more heteroatoms selected from N, S or O, preferably a substituted 5- membered ring carbon-based heterocyclic ring containing two heteroatoms selected from N or S, e.g., isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol or thiamidol. When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt%, or from 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, or from 0.01 to 2.5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt%, by weight of each of such ingredients, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0047] Glutathione precursors such as a glutamate source (e.g., glutamate) and cystine and, optionally, glycine, as well as salts and esters thereof. Glutamate source can be present in the form of its functional equivalents including glutamine, glutamic acid and / or pyroglutamic acid and / or their salts. A peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) activator such as 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), cis-parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5, 8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis- 11 ,14- eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract or trans vaccenic acid. Even other PPAR activators include cis-11 ,14,17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, farnesol, cis-13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis-11 eicosenoic acid, cis-13, 16, 19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15- octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10,13,16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid or tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS). Still other PPAR activators include biochanin A (red clover phytoestrogen), chromolaena odorata extract, pomegranate saponifiable hydrolysable extract, buglossoides (stearidonic plant extract) or zanthalene (extract from Sichuan peppercorn), whereby it is within the scope of the invention to use a mixture of any of the herein noted PPAR activators. In an embodiment of the invention, the PPAR activator is conjugated linoleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid or a mixture thereof. When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt% or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt%, by weight of each of such ingredients, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] Fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and / or oleic acid) are suitable optional components. Ceramides (e.g., ceramide 1 , ceramide 3 and / or ceramide 6), and alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids (known as AHAs), are suitable optional components. Another suitable component is 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine. When used, from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt%, or from 0.001 wt% to 8 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 1 wt%, by weight of each of such ingredients, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Other additional optional skin care benefit agents include at least one of benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, chloroxylenol, eugenol, terpineol, thymol, selenium sulfide, piroctone olamine, hinokitiol, linalool, cinnamon oil, lemon grass oil, eucalyptus, vanilla extract, mint extract, orange extract, linseed oil, flaxseed oil or a mixture thereof. If any of such are selected for use, the total amount of those selected for use will (in combined total) be from 0.001 wt% to 4.5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 3.5 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 2.5 wt%, or from 0.02 wt% to 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0049] Conventional humectants, generally of the polyhydric alcohol-type materials, are suitable for optional use. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (i.e., glycerine or glycerin), propylene glycol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerin (e.g., glycereth), sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably, glycerin, propylene glycol or a mixture thereof. Other suitable humectants include water soluble esters and ethers such as Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Glycereth-5 Lactate, PEG / PPG-8 / 3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, Methyl Gluceth-20, and Methyl Gluceth-10. When used, the total amount of the humectant is from 0.01 wt% to about 20 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 15 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, or from 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%, or from 0.5 wt% to 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of volatile alcohols having a molecular weight of greater than or equal to 60 g / mol, such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol.

[0050] Conventional preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the emulsion to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability. While traditional preservatives may be used, such as hydantoin derivatives, isothiazolinones, methyl paraben and / or propyl paraben, as described herein the emulsion of the present invention is preferably substantially free of the same. Other preservatives suitable for use may include iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerine, hexylene glycol, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate or mixtures thereof. Even other preservatives suitable for use include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenesin and decylene glycol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the emulsion and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts from 0.01 wt% to 2.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Also preferred is a preservative system with hydroxyacetophenone alone or in a mixture with other preservatives. Use of common emollients classified as vicinal diols, like 1 ,2-octane diol (or other vicinal alkane diols), are also suitable for use with the preservatives described herein and typically at amounts ranging from 0.15 wt% to 1.5 wt%, and preferably, from 0.2 wt% to 1.25 wt%, and most preferably, from 0.25 wt% to 1 wt%, or 0.25 wt% to 0.8 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. In another embodiment of the invention, another preservative suitable for optional use in the present invention comprises capryloyl glycine, undecylenoyl glycine or a mixture thereof. In one aspect, the emulsion is substantially free of parabens.

[0051] Emulsions disclosed herein may optionally include boron nitride. Boron nitride (BN) is a chemically inert non-oxide ceramic material, which exists in several crystalline varieties. Typically, the boron nitride is provided in the neat as a powder or as particles, and has a mean particle size ranging from 300 nm to 40 microns, or 500 nm to 30 microns, or 700 nm to 20 microns, or 900 nm to 18 microns, or 1 micron to 15 microns, or 1 .1 microns to 10 microns, or 1 .5 microns to 8 microns, or 1 .5 to 5 microns. Mean particle size, as used herein, or particle size distribution D50, is determined by conventional techniques known to one skilled in the art, such as laser diffraction. For the avoidance of doubt, a mean particle size (D50) of, for example, 2 microns, means that the mean particle size of the particle is 2 microns and also that 50% of the particles are smaller than 2 microns and 50% of the particles are larger than 2 microns in size. The particle size can be assessed with conventional equipment known to those skilled in the art such as a Leitz optical microscope (e.g., ones of the Laborlux 12 Pol S model name) fitted with cross-polarizers under magnification settings of 5x to 50x or a Malvern Mastersizer 3000. Boron nitride can be sold under the tradename CARESS® BN or CARESS® BN02 as made commercially available by Kobo. The boron nitride may be made commercially available as surface treated / coated with another material, such as isopropyl titanium triisostearate or triethoxycaprylylsilane such as boron nitride coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate is BN02-I2, as made commercially available by Kobo. Traditional fragrance components like eugenol, coumarin, linalyl acetate, citronellal, iris concentrate, terpinyl acetate, terpineol, thymol, pinenes (e.g., alpha and beta pinene) and citronellol may optionally be added to the personal care concentrate emulsion as well.

[0052] Antioxidants are suitable for optional use including natural, naturally derived, or synthetic antioxidants. Illustrative but nonlimiting examples of such antioxidants comprise alphahydroxy acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and mandelic acid), beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., propanoic acid and salicylic acid), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), carotenes, carotenoids, co-enzyme Q10, didodecyl 3,3' thiodipropionate, glutathione, imidazole and derivatives thereof, octadecyl di-t-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, peptides and derivatives thereof, plant extracts (e.g., Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, Camellia sinesis (green tea) leaf extract, Apium graveolens (celery) seed extract, and / or Linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract), polyhydroxy acids (e.g., gluconic acid, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid), polyphenols (e.g., anthocyanin, ellagic acid, flavonoid, tannin), and resveratrol. Other examples of suitable antioxidants include Tinogard® TT which is the phenolic antioxidant under the chemical name Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and Tinogard® Q (Tris-(Tetramethylhydroxy-piperidinol)citrate), that is made commercially available from BASF.

[0053] In one aspect, the present invention is directed to a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) from 0.9 wt% to 35 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, most preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, wherein the emulsion has from 1 wt% to 27 wt%, preferably, from 5 wt% to 27 wt%, more preferably, from 7 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably, from 10 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%, and even more preferably, from 10 wt% to 15 wt% of water, and wherein the aqueous phase further comprises at least one water-soluble active, preferably niacinamide; and (b) from 64.9 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably, from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and most preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least 40 wt%, preferably, from 40 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably from 45 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 50 wt% to 70 wt% of an functional elastomer, and an oil, preferably an ester oil, triglyceride and / or a linear or branched alkane, and optionally a PPAR activator, an oil-soluble vitamin, and / or a resorcinol, wherein the emulsion comprises from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably, from 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, based on the weight of the emulsion, with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8; and wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UV Vis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400-700 nm. Preferably, the functional elastomer is an elastomer of Structure (I), wherein x is from 15 to 40, preferably, from 15 to 30, more preferably, from 15 to 25, most preferably, x is 20; and wherein y and z are each are from 0 to 500, or from 0 to 250, or from 0 to 100, or from 0 to 50, from 1 to 500, or from 1 to 250, or from 1 to 100, or from 1 to 50.

[0054] In one aspect, the present invention is directed to a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) from 0.9 wt% to 35 wt%, preferably, from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, most preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, wherein the emulsion has from 1 wt% to 27 wt%, preferably, from 5 wt% to 27 wt%, more preferably, from 7 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably, from 10 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%, and even more preferably, from 10 wt% to 15 wt% of waterr, and wherein the aqueous phase further comprises at least one water-soluble active, preferably niacinamide and / or carboxymethyl cysteine compound; and (b) from 64.9 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably, from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and most preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least 40 wt%, preferably, from 40 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably from 45 wt% to 75 wt%, most preferably, from 50 wt% to 70 wt% of an functional elastomer, and an oil, preferably an ester oil, triglyceride and / or a linear or branched alkane, and optionally, a PPAR activator, an oil-soluble vitamin, and / or a resorcinol, wherein the emulsion comprises from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably, from 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, based on the weight of the emulsion, with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8; and wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UV Vis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400-700 nm. Preferably, the functional elastomer is an elastomer of Structure (I), wherein x is from 15 to 40, preferably, from 15 to 30, more preferably, from 15 to 25, most preferably, x is 20; and wherein y and z are each are from 0 to 500, or from 0 to 250, or from 0 to 100, or from 0 to 50, from 1 to 500, or from 1 to 250, or from 1 to 100, or from 1 to 50. The emulsion described herein may be made by conventional method known to those skilled in the art.

[0055] In one aspect, a method of applying an emulsion as described herein to skin.

[0056] In one aspect, the emulsion is initially translucent in appearance and remains translucent in appearance upon application onto skin. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, it is possible to get a translucent emulsion even with the inclusion of water.

[0057] In one aspect, the emulsion described herein is used for protecting the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[0058] Many types of packaging can be used to store and deliver the present personal care emulsion. The selection of packaging is dependent upon the personal care end use and the viscosity of the emulsion itself. As an example, leave-on lotions and creams for skin typically employ plastic containers with an opening at a dispense end covered by an appropriate closure. Conventional closures include flip-top hinged lids, screw-caps and non-aerosol pumps. As another example, appropriate packaging to be used for antiperspirants, deodorants and depilatories include a container with a roller-ball applicator on a dispensing end if the emulsion is fluid and of a thinner viscosity. If the emulsion is in a stick format, a container with a propel-repel mechanism wherein the stick is fixed on a platform towards a dispensing orifice is appropriate. If the emulsion is in an aerosol format, then metallic cans pressurized by a propellant and having a spray nozzle is appropriate. In general, patches, bottles, tubes, roller-ball applicators, squeeze containers or lidded jars are preferred.

[0059] Emulsions will now be described below in the context of specific non-limiting examples to facilitate a greater understanding of the present personal care emulsions. One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that variations of the inventive emulsions that differ from the examples given may be practiced without deviating from the teachings of the present emulsions. Examples

[0060] The following Examples are provided to further illustrate an understanding of the invention. The Examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

[0061] Example 1

[0062] Emulsions were prepared by mixing the amounts of the components as indicated in Table 1. The oil phase (except functional elastomer and optional non-functional elastomer) was heated to about 65°C and then mixed. Elastomer (e.g., functional elastomer and optional non-functional elastomer) was added to oil phase and mixed until homogenous, and then cooled. Separately, the water phase was prepared by mixing all of the components, and then added to oil phase at room temperature. Amounts are listed in % by weight.

[0063] Table 1

[0064] When water is included in an emulsion, such as a W / O emulsion, the emulsion is typically opaque or milky. However, as can be seen in Table 1 , Compositions 1 and 2 were surprisingly and unexpectedly translucent, even with having at least 10 wt% of water.

[0065] Additionally, trained panelists tested each of Compositions 1 and 2 and these emulsions had excellent skin feel properties on the skin after application of the emulsion.

Claims

Claims1 . A water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a) from 4 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably, from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably, from 13 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably, from 14 wt% to 20 wt% of an aqueous phase, comprising at least one water-soluble active selected from vitamin B1 , vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B7, vitamin B9; vitamin C or any combination thereof; and b) from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably, from 70 wt% to 90 wt%, and even more preferably, from 74 wt% to 88 wt%, and even more preferably, from 78 wt% to 85 wt% of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises from 50 wt% to 70 wt% of an functional elastomer of Structure (I):wherein x is from 1 to 100; and wherein y and z are each are from 1 to 100; wherein the emulsion is substantially free of a non-functional elastomer and silicone oils, wherein the emulsion comprises from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably, from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably, from 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, based on the weight of the emulsion, with an HLB value from 3.5 to 12, preferably, from 3.5 to 10, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8; and wherein the emulsion has translucency of 30 to 70, measured with UV Vis Spectroscopy across visible spectrum 400-700 nm, based on measurements at temperatures from 20 to 25°C and from 5 to 25% humidity.

2. The emulsion of claim 1 , wherein the emulsion comprises from 1 wt% to 27 wt%, preferably, from 5 wt% to 27 wt%, more preferably, from 7 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably, from 10 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%, and even more preferably, from 10 wt% to 15 wt% of water.

3. The emulsion of claim 1 , wherein the water-soluble active is niacinamide.

4. The emulsion of claim 1 , wherein the water-soluble active further comprises at least one water-soluble sunscreen.

5. The emulsion of claim 1 , wherein the water-soluble active is lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate, allantoin, pyroglutamic acid (PCA) and salts thereof, kojic acid, polyhydroxy acids, saccharide isomerate, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and any combinations thereof.

6. The emulsion of any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil is selected from linear or branched alkanes comprising 8 to 34 carbons, triglycerides, ester oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids with from 10 to 28 carbons preferably, with a melting point of <30 °C, preferably, < 25°C7. The emulsion of any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of functional elastomer to oil is from 4:1 to 1 :1 , preferably, from 3:1 to 1 :1 , more preferably, from 2: 1 to 1 :1 , most preferably from 1.5:1 to 1 :1.

8. The emulsion of any of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsion is substantially free of parabens and sulfates.

9. The emulsion of any of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsion further comprises at least one oil-soluble sunscreen.

10. The emulsion of any of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsion further comprises tocopherol.

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