Improved fabric
A multilayer fabric with polyurethane-coated yarns, laminated with a breathable membrane, addresses inefficiencies in traditional methods by enabling direct roll processing to create durable and decorative footwear uppers with reduced waste and costs.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/IB2025/057510
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-07-24
- Filing Date
- 2025-07-24
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for producing footwear item uppers using knitted fabric on double-bed jacquard circular knitting machines result in inefficiencies, such as requiring post-cutting thermo-adhesive membrane application, lack of resistance to abrasion and acids, and limited aesthetic and decorative options, while also generating waste and being costly.
A multilayer fabric produced with a combination of first and second yarns, where the second yarn is coated with polyurethane, is knitted into a tubular shape, heat-treated, and laminated with a waterproof and breathable membrane, allowing for direct processing on a roll to create uppers with reinforced and decorative zones, reducing waste and costs.
The solution provides a more resistant, aesthetically appealing, and functional footwear upper that is waterproof and breathable, produced efficiently with reduced waste and lower costs, while maintaining high quality and consistency.
Smart Images

Figure IB2025057510_29012026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] IMPROVED FABRIC.
[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0003] The present invention relates to an improved fabric for producing an upper of a footwear item or for producing fabric portions of other articles in general, such as clothing or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing articles for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative articles and other articles in general having at least a part of a fabric portion.
[0004] The present invention also relates to a multilayer to be used to make a fabric portion of an article, preferably to make an upper of a footwear item but also to make fabric portions of other articles in general, such as clothing or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing articles for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative articles and other articles in general having at least in part of fabric portion.
[0005] In particular, the present invention concerns a multilayer for producing the fabric upper of a footwear item, more in detail of a shoe that can be of the casual, sports, fashion, technical and / or safety type.
[0006] The present invention also relates to a method for obtaining a piece of multilayer to be used to make fabric portions of an article, preferably to make an upper of a footwear item.
[0007] The present invention also relates to an upper of a footwear item and / or a method for producing a fabric upper of a footwear item.
[0008] The present invention also relates to a footwear item wherein the fabric upper is produced with said multilayer.
[0009] The present invention therefore finds advantageous use in the technical sector of the production and marketing of fabrics and multilayers to create fabric portions of various types of articles, preferably footwear but also such as clothing or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing articles for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative articles and other articles in general having a fabric part.
[0010] STATE OF THE ART
[0011] For the production of the upper of a footwear item, the use of knitted fabric produced on double-bed jacquard circular knitting machines is already well known. In particular, double-bed jacquard circular knitting machines generally produce a roll of fabric onto which the corresponding pattern of a plurality of uppers is woven; the roll of fabric is then cut to obtain a piece for each upper, and a thermo-adhesive membrane is then applied to the cut piece. Essentially, in known solutions, the thermo-adhesive membrane is applied to the single piece of upper fabric which has been cut from the roll.
[0012] OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION
[0013] The object of the present invention is to propose a fabric, for producing the upper of a footwear item or for producing fabric portions of other articles in general, which allows to overcome, at least in part, the drawbacks of the known solutions.
[0014] Another object of the invention is to propose a more resistant fabric, in particular more resistant to abrasion and / or acids.
[0015] Another object of the invention is to make some areas of the upper of a footwear item more resistant.
[0016] Another object of the invention is to introduce a further aesthetic and / or decorative effect on the upper of a footwear item.
[0017] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer for fabric portions of an article, preferably for the upper of a footwear item, which allows to overcome the drawbacks of known solutions, at least in part.
[0018] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that is particularly resistant to abrasion and / or acids.
[0019] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that presents a certain aesthetic effect or a certain decoration without requiring further processing or applications on the already cut piece.
[0020] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that can be obtained in a simple, rapid and low-cost way.
[0021] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that is easy to transport and substantially ready for use.
[0022] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that is waterproof and breathable.
[0023] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that can be produced in a plurality of aesthetic configurations.
[0024] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer that is an improvement and / or alternative to traditional solutions.
[0025] Another object of the invention is to propose a multilayer wound into a roll for the creation of an upper that has a certain aesthetic effect or is more resistant in some areas, and which at the same time is also waterproof and breathable.
[0026] Another object of the invention is to decorate and, at the same time, make more resistant a waterproof and breathable multilayer, and this by avoiding or in any case reducing the processes subsequent to cutting the desired / required portion from a roll of said multilayer.
[0027] Another object of the invention is to simplify, speed up and reduce the costs of the production of an upper of a footwear item that has a certain aesthetic effect or is more resistant in some areas, and is also waterproof and breathable.
[0028] Another object of the invention is to avoid or at least reduce the processing on the piece, which is intended to define the upper of a footwear item, once said piece has been cut from the roll.
[0029] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, that is durable and resistant.
[0030] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, which is waterproof and breathable.
[0031] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, with an alternative and / or improved characterization, both in terms of construction and functionality, compared to traditional solutions.
[0032] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, that can be obtained in a simple, rapid, sustainable and / or low-cost way.
[0033] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, which achieves a pleasant overall aesthetic effect and which gives the observer the sensation of being in front of a high quality article, both aesthetically and functionally.
[0034] Another object of the invention is to propose an upper, or other textile portion of an article, which is an improvement and / or alternative to traditional solutions.
[0035] Another object of the invention is to reduce manufacturing waste.
[0036] Another object of the invention is to propose a method for obtaining a multilayer to be used to create fabric portions of an article which allows to overcome, at least in part, the drawbacks of known solutions.
[0037] Another object of the invention is to propose a method that can be implemented in a simpler, faster, more sustainable and / or cheaper way than traditional solutions. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0038] All the objects mentioned herein, considered either individually or in any combination thereof, and others which will result from the following description are achieved, according to the invention, with a fabric according to claim 1 , with a multilayer according to claim 5, with a method according to claim 8 and with an upper according to claim 10.
[0039] DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES The present invention is further clarified below in some of its preferred forms of practical embodiment reported for purely illustrative and non-limiting purposes with reference to the attached tables of drawings, wherein:
[0040] Figure 1 shows a photographic image of a partially unwound roll of the fabric according to the invention,
[0041] Figure 2 shows a photographic image of the multilayer according to the invention wherein the fabric side is visible as well as the underlying side (which has been turned over) of the membrane,
[0042] Figure 3 shows a photographic image of a detail of the fabric or multilayer according to the invention before the hot lamination treatment,
[0043] Figure 4 shows a photographic image of the same detail as Fig. 3 after the hot lamination treatment.
[0044] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION AND OF SOME PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS THE FABRIC 1
[0045] The present invention relates to a fabric 1 for producing an upper of a footwear item or for producing fabric portions of other articles in general, such as clothing items or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing items for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative items and other articles in general having at least a part of a fabric portion.
[0046] The fabric 1 is knitted.
[0047] The fabric 1 is produced with at least a first yarn 10 and also with at least a second yarn 20 using double-bed circular knitting machines, preferably double-bed circular jacquard knitting machines, more preferably double-bed electronic circular jacquard knitting machines. Conveniently, the fabric 1 produced by said double-bed circular jacquard knitting machines has a tubular shape (i.e. without side seams) which, after being opened, is treated and rolled, thus obtaining a roll of said fabric 1. Preferably, the fabric 1 initially has a tubular shape and, advantageously, is subsequently cut longitudinally and then wound to form a roll of fabric 1.
[0048] The fabric 1 comprises at least one zone 2 which, at least in part or entirely, is made of said second yarn 20, and wherein said second yarn 20 comprises a polyurethane coating that is intended to be heat-treated, preferably intended to be hot- laminated. In particular, said coating is made of thermoplastic polyurethane.
[0049] Preferably, said zone 2 comprises at least one part 25 which is made with both said first yarn 10 and said second yarn 20, and wherein in said part 25 the percentage by weight of the second yarn 20 is greater than that of the first yarn 10. Advantageously, this allows for a significant reduction in production costs, since the second yarn 20, which is more expensive as it is coated in polyurethane, is used only in selected parts of the fabric, to obtain the desired aesthetic and / or functional effect, thus optimising waste.
[0050] For example, in part 25 (which is made with both said first yam 10 and said second yarn 20) of said zone 2, the percentage by weight of the second yam 20 is greater than approximately 55%, while the percentage by weight of the first yarn 10 is less than approximately 45%. These percentages may vary depending on the type of pattern that is intended to be created in part 25 of the zone, however, the percentage by weight of the second yarn 20 is always greater than that of the first yam 10.
[0051] Preferably, in said zone 2 the percentage by weight of the second yam 20 is greater than that of the first yarn 10.
[0052] Conveniently, the percentage by weight is calculated by selecting (cutting) a corresponding representative portion of the fabric, for example with an area of 10 cm x 10 cm, laddering the portion of fabric thus selected and determining the separate weight of the first yam and the second yam.
[0053] Preferably, in each zone 2 of the fabric 1 , the percentage by weight of the second yarn 20 is between approximately 51 % and 80%, and that of the first yarn 10 is complementary, resulting between approximately 20% and 49%.
[0054] Preferably, the fabric 1 also comprises at least one further zone 3 which is made solely or predominantly with said first yarn 10. In particular, in each further zone 3 the percentage by weight of the first yarn 10 is greater than that of the second yarn 20 and, preferably, is much greater than that of the second yarn 20.
[0055] Preferably, in each further zone 3 of the fabric 1 , the percentage by weight of the first yarn 10 is between approximately 51 % and 80%, and that of the second yarn 20 is complementary, resulting between approximately 20% and 49%.
[0056] Conveniently, the zone 2 defines a usable zone of said fabric 1 , usable zone which, for example, is intended to be used for the production of an upper, while said further zone 3 defines a waste zone of said fabric 1 .
[0057] Preferably, the fabric 1 comprises a plurality of zones 2 which are spaced apart and separated from each other by corresponding further zones 3, which thus act as spaces or separators between the various zones 2. More preferably, the zones 2 are defined on the fabric 1 so as to be aligned along directions parallel to the length and width of the fabric itself.
[0058] Preferably, said zone 2 may comprise at least one part made only with said first yarn 10 and at least one part made both with said first yarn 10 and with said second yarn 20. Preferably, said zone 2 may also comprise at least one part made only with said second yarn 20.
[0059] In a possible embodiment, the fabric 1 can be produced on double-bed circular jacquard machines - for example, a Mayer model Ovja 1.6 EE / E - with a gauge that can vary from 14 needles per inch to 32 needles per inch with a diameter that varies depending on the gauge, to obtain a fabric 1 with a useful width for subsequent processing of no less than 24 inches and no more than 42 inches.
[0060] Advantageously, the processing of the fabric 1 using double-bed circular jacquard machines allows for the optimization of the yarn percentages used, resulting in a significant reduction in costs, and this is also thanks to the high production speed. Furthermore, this processing method also allows for the subsequent operations - as described below - of coupling with a membrane 40 to be performed continuously, directly on the roll of fabric 1 , thus contributing to further reducing the overall times and costs of the production process.
[0061] Preferably, the fabric 1 has a height between approximately 120 cm - 220 cm.
[0062] Preferably, said first yarn 10 may comprise natural fibres (e.g., cotton, flax, hemp, wool, silk, angora, etc.) and / or synthetic fibres (e.g., polyester, polypropylene, polyamide and / or aramids, etc.) and / or artificial fibres (e.g., acetate, viscose and / or flame-retardant viscose, etc.). The fibres of the first yarn 10 have a count of approximately 50 Dtex - 600 Dtex (which, also depending on the type of fibre, can be appropriately converted into other known counting systems / methods used in the sector and known to the skilled person).
[0063] The fabric 1 can be produced with different weaves and colors depending on the desired aesthetic and / or functional effect. In particular, zone 2 may comprise sections made with one or more first yarns 10 in various / different weaves and / or colors.
[0064] Preferably, said at least one zone 2 of the fabric 1 comprises a pattern 22 which is obtained by weaving using said first yarn 10 and also using, at least in a part of said zone, said second yarn 20 comprising a polyurethane coating, more preferably thermoplastic polyurethane.
[0065] More preferably, in said at least one zone 2 a pattern 22 is obtained by weaving for / of an upper or for / of a portion of fabric to be cut.
[0066] Ideally, at least one zone 2 can correspond to the shape / form of an upper or a portion of fabric to be cut.
[0067] Conveniently, in a possible and preferred embodiment, a plurality of zones 2 are obtained on the fabric 1 which are repeated several times, spaced apart from each other, along the main development directions (length and width) of the fabric 1. Preferably, the zones 2 have shapes or patterns which may be the same or different from each other.
[0068] In essence, at least a portion 25 located within said zone 2 is made with said at least one first yarn 10 and also with the second yarn 20 comprising, at least in part, a polyurethane coating. More preferably, said second yarn 20 is completely coated with polyurethane. Ideally, at least a portion of the pattern 22 obtained within said zone 2 is made with said at least one first yarn 10 and also with at least one second yam 20 which comprises, at least in part, a polyurethane coating.
[0069] Preferably, the second yarn 20 comprises a yarn with a base fiber that acts as a core and is completely or at least partially coated with polyurethane. Preferably, the weight / quantity of the polyurethane coating is much greater than that of the base fiber.
[0070] Preferably, the second yarn 20 can have a count of approximately 300-350 Dtex. Preferably, the second yam 20 can have a nominal diameter of approximately 0.1 mm- 0.3 mm, more preferably approximately 0.2 mm. For example, the base fiber is made of polymeric material, such as PES, and can have a count of approximately 70-80 Dtex. Preferably, the composition of the second yam 20 can be approximately 20-25%, ideally approximately 22%-23% polymeric material of the base fiber, and the remainder is of polyurethane.
[0071] Conveniently, the core of said second yarn 20 may comprise natural fibres (e.g. cotton, flax, hemp, wool, silk, angora, etc.) and / or synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester, high tenacity polyester, polypropylene, polyamide, aramid, nylon, cordura®, glass filament reinforced plastic, etc.) and / or artificial fibres (e.g. acetate, viscose and / or flameretardant viscose, etc ). The fibres of the core of said second yam 10 have a count of approximately 50 Dtex - 600 Dtex (which, also based on the nature / type of fibre, can be suitably converted into other known counting systems / methods used in the sector and known to the skilled person, for example considering that 50 Dtex = 118Ne = 200Nm = 5Tex = 45den).
[0072] Conveniently, the polyurethane coating can be transparent, colored, photoluminescent, glittery, iridescent, with metallic effects and / or with a permanent antibacterial treatment.
[0073] Advantageously, the second yam 20 with polyurethane coating is configured to reinforce and increase the strength of the corresponding part wherein it is used.
[0074] Preferably, the part of zone 2 made with said second yarn 20 is a part of the upper that is intended to be reinforced. Preferably, the second yarn 20 with polyurethane coating can be used within the zone 2 as a decorative element, for example to create a further or different aesthetic effect.
[0075] Preferably, at least the zone 2 with said second yarn 20 is then subjected to heat treatment.
[0076] Preferably, the fabric 1 is wound into a roll.
[0077] In a possible and preferred embodiment, the fabric 1 is produced on double-bed circular jacquard machines and comprises a plurality of zones 2 spaced apart and separated from each other by a plurality of further zones 3, and wherein each zone 2 is intended to be used for the production of a corresponding upper, while the further zones 3 substantially define waste zones.
[0078] Preferably, the electronic double-bed jacquard circular knitting machine comprises:
[0079] - a first bed, called flat bed, which is programmed to alternately select even and odd needles according to a predefined cyclic sequence, on a determined number of work units (feeder),
[0080] - a second bed, called cylinder bed, which is programmed to electronically select the needles depending on a pattern 22 to be created.
[0081] Preferably, the fabric 1 is obtained by processing at least four yarns, comprising two first yarns 10 and two second yarns 20, using an electronic double-bed jacquard circular knitting machine. Preferably, each zone 2 is obtained by processing four yarns, comprising two first yarns 10 and two second yarns 20, while each additional zone 3 is obtained by processing only two yarns, comprising a first yam 10 and a second yarn 20.
[0082] Preferably, each zone 2 of the fabric comprises a part of the pattern 22 and is made using at least a first yarn 10 and at least a second yarn 20 coated in polyurethane. Preferably, each additional zone 3, interposed between two adjacent zones 2, is made solely or predominantly with said first yarn 10.
[0083] Preferably, the second yarn 20 is processed in at least two predefined work units (feeders), wherein the even needles of the first bed and the needles of the second bed corresponding to the pattern 22 are selected.
[0084] Preferably, the first yarn 10 is processed in other distinct work units (feeders), wherein the odd and / or even needles of the plate and the needles of the cylinder are selected to complete the zone 2 and to create said further zone 3.
[0085] Conveniently, the machine is programmed with a specific knit setting that allows to alternate, along the direction of fabric extension, zones 2 and further zones 3. Conveniently, in a possible and preferred embodiment, the machine programming is performed according to the number of colours to be used to create the pattern 22, and provides for the division of the total number of available work units into a number of repetitions equal to the number of desired colours.
[0086] For example, if the machine has 48 work units (feeders) and you want to create a 4-color pattern 22, there are 12 repetitions of the same color sequence, distributed cyclically throughout the entire length of the fabric. The yarn sequence could be, for example, as follows:
[0087] - Work unit 1 : yarn color 1
[0088] - Work unit 2: yarn color 2
[0089] - Work unit 3: yarn color 3
[0090] - Work unit 4: yarn color 4
[0091] - Work unit 5: yarn color 1
[0092] - Work unit 6: yarn color 2
[0093] - Work unit 7: yarn color 3
[0094] - Work unit 8: yarn color 4 and so on for 12 repetitions.
[0095] Advantageously, this configuration allows for the continuous and repetitive creation of complex, multi-colored textile patterns, with high precision and consistency from one zone to another, simplifying production management, reducing waste, and optimizing yarn usage.
[0096] Preferably, the production of the fabric 1 on electronic double-bed jacquard circular knitting machines requires appropriate programming of the needle selections on both beds, called "plate" and "cylinder".
[0097] The flat bed works with the alternating selection of even and odd needles, set for example according to the following sequence for the first eight work units (feeder):
[0098] - Work unit 1 : even needles
[0099] - Work unit 2: odd needles
[0100] - Work unit 3: even needles
[0101] - Work unit 4: even needles
[0102] - Work unit 5: odd needles
[0103] - Work unit 6: even needles
[0104] - Work unit 7: odd needles
[0105] - Work unit 8: odd needles and so on for six repetitions, for a total of 48 work units (feeder). At the same time, the cylinder bed is managed by electronic needle selection, based on the programmed textile pattern, which takes into account the arrangement of the colours.
[0106] Conveniently, to create the zone 2, both the first yarn 10 and the second yarn 20 are used, while to create the further zone 3, only or predominantly the first yam 10 is used.
[0107] Preferably, the second yarn 20 is mainly used for the creation of zones 2, and is processed in particular in the work units (feeders) 1 and 3: in these work units (feeders), in addition to the selection of the even needles of the plate, the needles of the cylinder are electronically selected so as to create a part of the pattern 22 in zone 2.
[0108] The first yarn 10 is mainly used to create the further zones 3 processed mainly in the work units (feeders) 2 and 4: in these work units (feeders), in addition to the selection of the odd and / or even needles of the plate, the needles of the cylinder are electronically selected which complete the residual part of the pattern 22 and also create the further zone 3.
[0109] I n the subsequent work units (feeders), from 5 to 8, the arrangement of the yarns is kept identical to that of the first four work units (feeders), while the selection of the needles on the plate is inverted, that is, alternated between even and odd in the opposite way to that of the first four work units (feeders).
[0110] The selection of the cylinder needles is executed electronically for all work units (feeders), thus creating the pattern 22 in zone 2.
[0111] Advantageously, thanks to this programming logic, it is possible to obtain on the fabric 1 a precise alternation of zones 2 (useful) and zones 3 (waste), already prepared during the weaving phase, without the need for further localized treatments. This contributes to improve the aesthetic and functional quality of the fabric 1 , while simultaneously optimizing the production cycle, consumption, and material management.
[0112] THE MULTILAYER 30
[0113] The present invention also relates to a multilayer 30 to be used to make a fabric portion of an article, preferably to make an upper of a footwear item but also to make fabric portions of other articles in general, such as clothing or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing articles for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative articles and other articles in general having at least a part of a fabric portion. The multilayer 30 comprises - and more preferably consists of - said fabric 1 coupled with a membrane 40 which is waterproof and, preferably, is a waterproof and breathable membrane.
[0114] In the multilayer 30, (at least) the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20 of the fabric 1 is hot-laminated. Conveniently, the coating of the second yarn 20 is thermoplastic polyurethane.
[0115] Preferably, the fabric 1 of the multilayer 30 is associated with the membrane 40 by spot or full-field or powder lamination / coupling, preferably with polymer glue and / or hot-melt resin (for example with reactive polyurethane), so as to guarantee a stable and long-lasting union between the fabric and the membrane and avoid any detachment during use.
[0116] More preferably, the fabric 1 of the multilayer 30 is spot-coupled to the membrane 40 using a hot-melt resin. Ideally, the fabric 1 of the multilayer 30 is coupled to the membrane 40 using polyurethane glue.
[0117] Preferably, the membrane 40 is waterproof, to prevent the passage of liquids, and is also breathable, to allow the passage of air and gases. Advantageously, the presence of the waterproof and, preferably, breathable membrane 40 also makes the corresponding multilayer 30 waterproof and, preferably, breathable.
[0118] Preferably, the membrane 40 is also water-repellent.
[0119] Preferably, the membrane 40 is polymeric, for example it is a membrane made of polyester (PL), polyamide (PA), polypropylene (PP), polyurethane (PU), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE), teflon® and / or other similar materials.
[0120] Preferably, the membrane 40 may be made of recycled polymeric material.
[0121] Preferably, the membrane 40 can be additive-treated with substances to make it antistatic and / or fireproof.
[0122] Conveniently, the membrane 40 can have a thickness between 10pm - 60pm, in particular based on the intended use of the multilayer 30.
[0123] Preferably, the membrane 40 can have a breathability of approximately 0.5m2Pa / W - 30m2Pa / W.
[0124] Conveniently, in a possible embodiment, the multilayer 30 may comprise a supporting substrate for said membrane 40. Preferably, said supporting substrate may comprise a ladder-proof or knitted fabric for subsequent taping, or even a fabric that is suitably configured (particularly in terms of construction, composition and weight) to protect the membrane from any rubbing. Preferably, the multilayer 30 can be treated with a water-repellent finish. Preferably, the multilayer 30 can be heat-treated, to thereby laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20. Preferably, the multilayer 30 can be hot-laminated, most preferably by calendering. Ideally, the multilayer 30 can be calendered at a temperature of approximately 100°C - 180°C. Preferably, the multilayer 30 comprising the fabric 1 coupled with the membrane 40 is wound on a roll.
[0125] THE METHOD
[0126] The present invention also relates to a method for obtaining a piece of multilayer to be used to produce fabric portions of an article, preferably to produce an upper of a footwear item or to produce fabric portions of other articles in general, such as clothing or fashion accessories (for example bags), furnishing articles for interiors (also in the automotive, boat or other transport interiors sectors), decorative articles and other articles in general having at least part of a fabric portion.
[0127] In particular, the method comprises at least the following phases:
[0128] - with at least a first yarn 10 and with at least a second yarn 20 and using double-bed circular machines, preferably double-bed circular jacquard machines, a knitted fabric 1 is produced with at least one zone 2 which, at least in part or entirely, is made with said second yarn 20, and wherein said second yarn 20 comprises a polyurethane coating, preferably thermoplastic polyurethane,
[0129] - the fabric 1 thus produced is coupled with a membrane 40 (described in one or more of its characteristics) which is waterproof, preferably with a membrane 40 which is waterproof and breathable, to thus obtain said multilayer 30,
[0130] - before or after coupling with the membrane 40, said fabric 1 is subjected to a heat treatment to thus laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20 of said fabric 1 ,
[0131] - before or after said heat treatment, said multilayer 30 is cut to obtain a piece of multilayer 30 which contains said zone 2 of fabric 1 and to be used to produce fabric portions of an article, preferably to produce the upper of a footwear item or to produce fabric portions of other articles in general.
[0132] Preferably, at least one zone 2 comprising a pattern 22 of / for an upper or of / for a portion of fabric to be cut is obtained by knitting on the fabric 1. Preferably, at least one portion located within said zone 2 is made with at least a first yarn 10 and also with a second yarn 20 comprising, at least in part, a polyurethane coating.
[0133] Conveniently, the fabric 1 of said method may present one or more of the characteristics indicated above. In particular, said at least one zone 2 of the fabric 1 comprises at least a part 25 which is made with both said first yarn 10 and said second yarn 20, and wherein in said part 25 the percentage by weight of the second yarn 20 is greater than that of the first yarn 10. Preferably, in said zone 2 of the fabric 1 the percentage by weight of the second yarn 20 is greater than that of the first yam 10.
[0134] Preferably, the fabric 1 also comprises at least one further zone 3 which is made solely or predominantly with said first yarn 10.
[0135] Conveniently, the zone 2 defines a usable zone of said fabric 1 , usable zone which, for example, is intended to be used for the production of an upper, while said further zone 3 defines a waste zone of said fabric 1 .
[0136] Preferably, the fabric 1 comprises a plurality of zones 2 which are spaced apart and separated from each other by corresponding further zones 3, which thus act as spaces or separators between the various zones 2. More preferably, the zones 2 are defined on the fabric 1 so as to be aligned along directions parallel to the length and width of the fabric itself.
[0137] Preferably, in the method according to the invention, the cutting of the multilayer 30 to obtain one or more corresponding pieces is carried out starting from said multilayer 30 wound into a roll.
[0138] Preferably, during or after its production, the fabric 1 is wound into a roll (scroll). Preferably, before the coupling, the membrane 40 is also wound into a roll and, in particular, the membrane 40 to be coupled is provided wound into a roll. Conveniently, the roll of fabric 1 is unwound / unrolled before coupling with the membrane 40.
[0139] Preferably, the multilayer 30, which is obtained by coupling the fabric 1 with the membrane 40, can be wound into a roll.
[0140] Preferably, before coupling with the membrane 40, the fabric 1 passes through a stenter machine, advantageously to allow its stabilization.
[0141] Conveniently, the fabric 1 may have one or more of the above-mentioned characteristics. Conveniently, the membrane 40 may have one or more of the above- mentioned characteristics and, preferably, is polymeric, waterproof, and breathable. Advantageously, by coupling the fabric 1 with the membrane 40, which is waterproof and breathable, a multilayer 30 is obtained that is correspondingly waterproof and breathable.
[0142] Preferably, the fabric 1 is coupled with the membrane 40 by spot or full-field or powder lamination / coating, more preferably with polymer glue and / or hot-melt resin (for example, with reactive polyurethane), so as to ensure a stable and long-lasting bond between the fabric and the membrane and avoid any detachment during use. Ideally, the fabric 1 is spot coupled to the membrane 40 using a hot-melt resin. Ideally, the fabric 1 is coupled to the membrane 40 using polyurethane glue. Preferably, in the method according to the invention, the multilayer 30 is cut according to the shape of the upper or of another required / desired portion to be cut, to thus obtain a piece of multilayer 30 having the plan shape of the upper or of another portion.
[0143] Conveniently, a plurality of shapes of the upper or other portions can be cut from the roll-wound multilayer 30, thus obtaining a plurality of pieces each of which has the plan shape of the upper or other portion.
[0144] Preferably, the membrane 40 is coupled substantially over the entire fabric roll 1. Conveniently, in another possible embodiment, the membrane 40 can be coupled only over the portions of the fabric roll 1 that are then intended to be cut (for example to thus define corresponding pieces of upper).
[0145] Preferably, after coupling, the multilayer 30 can be subjected to a water-repellent finishing treatment, thus further increasing the waterproofness of the multilayer 30.
[0146] Preferably, after coupling, the multilayer 30 is wound into a roll which is unwound / unrolled before or during the cutting phase.
[0147] Preferably, after coupling, the multilayer 30 can be heat-treated to laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20. Preferably, the multilayer 30 can be hot- laminated, most preferably by calendering. Ideally, the multilayer 30 can be calendered at a temperature of approximately 100°C - 180°C. Advantageously, this heat treatment makes the corresponding portion of zone 2 of the multilayer 30 resistant to abrasion, chemicals, and oils, without requiring further processing.
[0148] Conveniently, the hot lamination treatment can be carried out before the cutting stage of the multilayer 30 and, therefore, can be carried out on the multilayer 30 wound on a coil.
[0149] Advantageously, therefore, in the solution according to the invention, all the processes can be performed on the roll of the multilayer 30, thus eliminating the need to perform processes on the individual cut pieces. In particular, advantageously, the piece having the shape of the upper can be ready for the production of the corresponding shoe immediately after the cutting with which said piece is obtained from the roll.
[0150] Advantageously, this allows to simplify the manufacturing process, streamline the production of individual cut pieces and reduce both costs and waste; this reduces CO2 emissions and, therefore, makes the production of multilayer pieces more eco- friendly. Conveniently, in another possible embodiment, the hot lamination treatment can be carried out after the cutting step of the multilayer 30 and, therefore, can be carried out on the piece of multilayer 30 that has the shape of the upper or other portion.
[0151] In a possible and preferred embodiment, the method for the production of an upper of a footwear item, preferably of a shoe, may comprise the following steps:
[0152] - at least one first yarn 10 and one second yarn 20 which comprises a polyurethane coating are prepared,
[0153] - said at least one first yarn 10 and said second yarn 20 are used in double-bed circular knitting machines, preferably in double-bed circular jacquard knitting machines, to thus obtain the knitted fabric 1 with at least one zone 2 with a pattern 22 and which, at least in part, is made with said second yarn 20,
[0154] - the fabric 1 thus obtained is wound into a roll,
[0155] - preferably, the fabric 1 thus obtained can be processed in a stenter machine,
[0156] - starting from said roll of fabric 1 , the fabric 1 is coupled with the membrane 40, thus obtaining the multilayer 30,
[0157] - preferably the 30 multilayer is subjected to a water-repellent finishing treatment,
[0158] - the multilayer 30 is subjected to a heat treatment, to thus laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20, thus making the corresponding parts wherein the second yarn 20 has been used resistant to abrasions, chemical agents and oils,
[0159] - said multilayer 30 is cut following the shape of the plan form of the requested / desired upper, to thus obtain a piece of multilayer 30, containing said zone 2, to be used to make the upper of a footwear item.
[0160] Conveniently, the fabric 1 may have one or more of the characteristics described above. Conveniently, the multilayer 30 may have one or more of the characteristics described above.
[0161] In another possible embodiment, the heat treatment, to thus laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn 20 of the fabric 1 , can be carried out before coupling the fabric 1 with the membrane 40.
[0162] The present invention also relates to a fabric upper of a footwear item, in particular of a shoe, which is produced with the multilayer 30 as described above.
[0163] The present invention also relates to a footwear item, and in particular a shoe, comprising an upper which is produced with the multilayer 30 as described above.
[0164] Conveniently, the shoe can be casual, fashion, sporty, technical and / or safety.
[0165] Conveniently, the upper piece cut from the multilayer 30 comprises at least one pattern 22 obtained by knitting. Advantageously, the piece of upper cut from the multilayer 30 comprises at least one zone with a reinforcement obtained by means of a second yarn 20 comprising, at least in part, a polyurethane coating.
[0166] Advantageously, the piece of upper cut from the 30-layer multilayer is waterproof, breathable and / or reinforced, at least in some of its parts.
[0167] All technical characteristics described with reference to the fabric 1 , the membrane 40, the multilayer 30 and / or the method are to be understood as equally described also with reference to the upper.
[0168] From what has been said it is clear that the solution according to the present invention is particularly advantageous because:
[0169] - the processes required to obtain a waterproof and breathable multilayer with reinforced parts, in particular for the creation of an upper of a footwear item, can be carried out directly on the fabric roll obtained from the double-bed circular jacquard machine,
[0170] - the hot application of pre-cut parts of thermo-adhesive polyurethane or pre-cut thermo-adhesive membranes is avoided,
[0171] - the processes following the cutting of the piece having the desired / required shape of the upper or other portion are reduced,
[0172] - it's simpler, cheaper and faster,
[0173] - it allows to produce differently processed uppers starting from the same roll-wound multilayer by subjecting only portions of the same roll to certain processes,
[0174] - it is particularly eco-friendly and less energy-intensive, and
[0175] - it allows to reduce processing waste.
Claims
C L A I M S1. Fabric (1) for producing an upper of a footwear item or for producing fabric portions of other articles in general, characterised in that said fabric:- is knitted,- is produced with at least one first yarn (10) and also with at least one second yarn (20) using double-bed circular machines, preferably with double-bed circular jacquard machines,- comprises at least one zone (2) which, at least in part, is made with said second yarn (20), and wherein said second yarn (20) comprises a polyurethane coating which is suitable and intended to be heat treated, preferably it is suitable and intended to be hot- laminated.
2. Fabric according to claim 1 , wherein:- said first yarn (10) comprises fibres with a count of approximately 50 Dtex - 600 Dtex, and- said second yarn (20) comprises fibres with a count of approximately 300 Dtex - 350 Dtex.
3. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterised in that it has a configuration wherein it is wound into a coil.
4. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterised by having a tubular conformation.
5. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said zone (2) comprises a pattern (22) which is obtained by knitting using said first yarn (10) and also using, at least in a part of said zone, said second yam (20) comprising a polyurethane coating, preferably of thermoplastic polyurethane.
6. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein in each zone (2) the percentage by weight of second yarn (20) is greater than that of the first yarn (10).
7. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said zone (2) comprises at least one part (25) which is made with said first yarn (10) and with said second yam (20).
8. Fabric according to the previous claim, wherein in said part (25) the percentage by weight of second yarn (20) is greater than that of the first yarn (10).
9. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, comprising at least one further zone (3) which is made solely or predominantly with said first yarn (10).
10. Fabric according to the previous claim, wherein in each further zone (3) the percentage by weight of the first yarn (10) is greater than that of the second yarn (20).
11. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, comprising a plurality of zones (2) which are spaced apart and separated from each other by corresponding further zones (3).
12. Fabric according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein:- each zone (2) comprises at least one part (25) which is made with said first yarn (10) and with said second yarn (20)- in each part (25), the percentage by weight of the second yarn (20) is greater than that of the first yarn (10),- comprises at least one further zone (3) which is made solely or predominantly with said first yarn (10),- in each further zone (3), the percentage by weight of the first yarn (10) is greater than that of the second yarn (20),- each zone (2) is separated from other zones (2) by said at least one further zone (3)- each zone (2) is intended to be used for the production of a corresponding upper, while at least one further zone (3) defines a waste zone.
13. Multilayer (30) to be used to produce a fabric portion of an article, preferably to produce an upper of a footwear item or a fabric portion of other articles in general, characterised in that it comprises a fabric (1 ), according to one or more of the preceding claims, coupled with a membrane (40) which is waterproof, and wherein the polyurethane coating of the second yarn (20) of said fabric (1) is suitable and intended to be hot laminated.
14. Multilayer according to the previous claim, wherein said membrane (40) is waterproof and breathable.
15. Multilayer according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said membrane (40) is polymeric and is spot coupled to the fabric (1) by means of hot-melt resin, preferably by means of polyurethane glue.
16. Multilayer according to one or more of claims 13 to 15, wherein said membrane (40) has a thickness of approximately 10pm - 60pm and / or breathability of approximately 0.5m2Pa / W - 30m2Pa / W.
17. Method for obtaining a piece of multilayer (30) to be used to produce fabric portions of an article, preferably to produce an upper of a footwear item or to produce fabric portions of other articles in general, characterised in that:- with at least a first yarn (10) and with a second yarn (20) and using double-bed circular machines, preferably double-bed circular jacquard machines, a knitted fabric (1) is produced with at least one zone (2) which, at least in part, is made with said second yarn (20), and wherein said second yarn (20) comprises a polyurethane coating, preferably of thermoplastic polyurethane,- the fabric (1 ) thus produced is coupled with a membrane (40) which is waterproof, preferably with a membrane (40) which is waterproof and breathable, to thus obtain a multilayer (30) wherein said fabric (1) is coupled with said membrane (40),- said fabric (1) is subjected to a heat treatment, before or after said coupling with the membrane (40), to thus laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn of said fabric (1 ),- before or after said heat treatment, said multilayer (30) is cut in order to obtain at least one piece of said multilayer (30) which contains said zone (2) of fabric (1).
18. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein at least one piece of said multilayer (30) is cut starting from said roll-wound multilayer (30)19. Method according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one piece of said multilayer (30) that is cut has a plan shape corresponding to the shape of an upper of a footwear item.
20. Method for the production of an upper of a footwear item, preferably of a shoe, characterised by comprising the following steps:- at least one first yarn (10) and one second yam (20) which comprises a polyurethane coating are prepared,- said at least one first yarn (10) and said second yarn (20) are used in double-bed circular knitting machines, preferably in double-bed circular jacquard knitting machines, to thus obtain the knitted fabric (1) with at least one zone (2) with a pattern (22) and which, at least in part, is made with said second yarn (20),- the fabric (1) thus obtained is wound into a roll,- starting from said roll of fabric (1 ), the fabric (1 ) is coupled with the membrane (40), thus obtaining the multilayer (30),- the multilayer (30) is subjected to a heat treatment, to laminate the polyurethane coating of the second yarn (20),- said multilayer (30) is cut following the shape of the plan shape of the required upper, thus obtaining a piece of multilayer (30) containing said zone (2) and to be used to produce an upper of a footwear item.21 . Upper of a footwear item, in particular of a shoe, characterised by comprising an upper which is produced from a piece of multilayer (30) according to one or more of the preceding claims.
Citation Information
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