Composition and method for personalised benefits

Abstract

Incorporation of lipids into a growing hair fibre is provided by a composition comprising at least one of: 1) 0.05 to 8 wt % of a lipid precursor selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, an ester or an acylglycerol thereof and mixtures thereof; 2) 0.05 to 8.0% of a "gene activator material" that modulates the biosynthesis of lipids in the hair follicle or sebaceous gland, selected from a) at least one activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR activator), b) at least one activator of a liver X receptor (LXR), and c) at least one activator of a retinoid X receptor (RXR); and 3) a fatty alcohol having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, most preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Description

[0001] P0001030 CPL

[0002] 1

[0003] COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR PERSONALISED BENEFITS

[0004] Field of the Invention

[0005] 5

[0006] The invention is in the field of treating hair with natural ingredients to enhance its lipid properties.

[0007] Background of the Invention

[0008] Lipids are important for many properties of hair fibre. Lipids found in hair fibres are typically composed of equimolar mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. These materials will provide fibre benefits such as smoothness, shine and porosity.

[0009] 15 Sometimes known as the building blocks of hair, lipids are found on the hair surface and between hair cells in both the cuticle and cortex. Surface lipids provide natural conditioning and lubrication to help fibres move easily past each other. Lipids within the fibre contribute to the structural integrity of the fibre. Some lipids are incorporated into the fibre during growth in the follicle; these can be bound (attached) or unbound (free). Other lipids originate from secretions

[0010] 20 of the sebaceous gland. Lipids vary from person to person and by hair type and texture. The lipid profile may differ with component lipid concentration varying between the individual and hair type and texture.

[0011] Lipids have been used to treat hair and skin.

[0012] WO 2016 / 100634 discloses the use of lipids and lipid components to repair damaged hair. A hair conditioning composition is disclosed that comprises 0.1 % to 20 % of a lipid being one or more unsaturated fatty material selected from an unsaturated fatty acid; an unsaturated fatty alcohol; an unsaturated amine; an unsaturated amide; and an unsaturated phospholipid. The

[0013] 30 unsaturated fatty material comprises a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in a defined position and has a Log P of less than 7. The composition further comprises 0.1 % to 20 % of one or more lipid enhancing agent selected from a fatty acid monoester of a polyol which contains a linear or branched carbon chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and has a log P of less than 7; a saturated fatty alcohol having a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to P0001030 CPL

[0014] 2

[0015] 22 carbon atoms; an ester of a saturated fatty alcohol containing 10 to 44 total carbon atoms; and an alcohol containing an aromatic ring.

[0016] WO 2022 / 136357 discloses a prolipid composition that penetrates the stratum corneum. The

[0017] 5 prolipid composition provides personalized benefits by rapidly restoring the skin's natural lipid balance. Such a composition results in elongated fatty acid and / or lipid production deep in the stratum corneum and near the surface of the stratum lucidum. The composition at least comprises a fatty acid, fatty ester and / or an acylglycerol and an activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor.

[0018] Despite the prior art there remains a need for ways to naturally improve hair properties in ways that benefit individual needs and hair.

[0019] We have now found that hair treated at the follicle or at the sebaceous gland to produce new

[0020] 15 lipids, or modified lipids, within the follicle or within the sebaceous gland, are then deposited onto or incorporated into the growing hair fibre to provide benefits including, amongst others, smoothness, shine and reduced porosity.

[0021] Summary of the Invention

[0022] 20

[0023] In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a composition comprising at least one of:

[0024] 1) 0.05 to 8 wt % a lipid precursor selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, most preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, an ester or an acylglycerol thereof and mixtures thereof;

[0025] 2) 0.05 to 8 wt % a gene activator material that modulates the biosynthesis of lipids in the hair follicle or the sebaceous gland, selected from a) at least one activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR activator), b) at least one activator of a liver X receptor (LXR), and

[0026] 30 c) at least one activator of a retinoid X receptor (RXR); and mixtures thereof;

[0027] 3) a fatty alcohol having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, most preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms; and P0001030 CPL

[0028] 3 mixtures thereof; and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0029] In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a method for treating “growing hair”

[0030] 5 comprising the steps of: i) contacting the follicle or sebaceous gland with a composition as claimed in the first aspect of the invention and ii) such that a Cwto C36 fatty acid, lipid or both form within the follicle or sebaceous gland; and iii) the C to C36 fatty acid, lipid or both are incorporated into the growing hair fibre.

[0031] By “growing hair fibre” it is meant the new hair fibre (shaft) that is being formed in the hair follicle as a result of rapidly proliferating matrix cells in the hair bulb which differentiate into the various lineages of the hair shaft and inner root sheath. Endogenous hair lipids such as fatty

[0032] 15 acyls (e.g. fatty acids), glycerolipids, glycerophospholipids, sphingolipids (e.g. ceramides), sterols, prenols, saccharolipids and polyketides are synthesized in the hair matrix cells and get incorporated into the hair shaft. These immature, proliferating cells move upward where they enlarge, elongate vertically and integrate into the hair shaft. The cells gradually become keratinized and terminal cornification results in the mature hair fibre which emerges from the

[0033] 20 scalp.

[0034] The sebaceous gland is involved in lipid production and secretion. Exogenous sebaceous gland lipids such as fatty acyls (e.g. fatty acids such as sapienic acid), glycerolipids, glycerophospholipids, sphingolipids (e.g. ceramides), sterols, prenols, saccharolipids,

[0035] 25 triterpinoids (eg squalene) and polyketides are synthesized in the sebaceous gland and are deposited onto or incorporated into the hair shaft.

[0036] In a third aspect, a use is provided, of a composition as claimed in the first aspect to form a Cw to C36 fatty acid, a lipid or both in the follicle or sebaceous gland, preferably the C to C36 fatty acid, a lipid or both are deposited or incorporated into the growing hair fibre.

[0037] By contacting is meant topical or ingestible. An ingestible is intended to be taken by the mouth. The composition can be formulated into suitable preparations for administration as a solution, suspension, tablet, dispersible tablet, capsule, powder, pill, or liquid. The composition may also

[0038] 35 be formulated as liquid dosage forms such as elixir, suspension or syrup. The topical is P0001030 CPL

[0039] 4 intended to be applied on the scalp skin and is allowed to enter and reach the hair follicle and / or the sebaceous gland. A topical may be a rinse-off composition or a leave-on composition. It may be, for example, shampoo, conditioner, serum, lotion, or mask, cream, paste or gel.

[0040] 5 1) The Lipid precursors

[0041] The only limitation with respect to the C6to C24 preferably C12 to C18 fatty acid, ester and / or acylglycerol thereof (i.e. , hydrocarbon source) that may be used in the present invention is that the same results in a composition that is homogeneous and free of precipitate. Illustrative examples of the fatty acids suitable for use include hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, nonanoic,

[0042] 10 lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof. In addition sapienic acid may be used for the sebaceous gland, alone or in combination with the other listed acids. , Preferred fatty acids are selected from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, nonanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and mixtures thereof. Derivatives of the same may be used and these include any ester and / or acylglycerol thereof and resulting from,

[0043] 15 for example, a dehydration reaction like a Fischer esterification in the presence of alcohols.

[0044] Preferred acylglycerols are those having hydrocarbon chains of lauric, myristic, palmitic and / or stearic acid. The ester derivative, when used, will typically result from an esterification that uses a C Ce alcohol as a reagent.

[0045] 20

[0046] Preferred fatty esters for use include palmitic acid, methyl ester, palmitic acid ethyl ester, palmitic acid hexyl ester, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof.

[0047] 25 As to the acylglycerol, the hydrocarbon chains may be the same or different and they are typically C6to C24 chains. An often preferred acylglycerol used in this invention is a triglyceride esterified with palmitic acid.

[0048] Typically, the Ce to C24 fatty acid, ester and / or acylglycerol thereof will make up from 0.05 to

[0049] 30 8.0%, and preferably from 1 to 6%, and most preferably, from 1 .5 to 4.5% by weight of the composition. In an embodiment of the invention, the composition will have from 1.5 to 4%, and still another embodiment, from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight Ce to Cis fatty acid, ester and / or acylglycerol thereof. In yet another embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon source is at least 50%, and preferably, at least 75 to 99% by weight Ceto Cis fatty acid based on total weight P0001030 CPL

[0050] 5 source is all (100% by weight) Ceto C24 fatty acid based on total weight of hydrocarbon source in the composition.

[0051] The Gene Activator Material

[0052] 5 2a) the activator of a peroxisome prol iterator-activated receptor

[0053] Regarding the activator of a peroxisome prol iterator-activated receptor (PPAR activator) that is suitable for use, the same is typically selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2- hydroxy stearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 d 2), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract or trans vaccenic acid, ursolic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0054] 15

[0055] Even other PPAR activators suitable for use include cis-11 , 14, 17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, trans trans farnesol, cis 13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis-11 eicosenoic acid, cis-13, 16, 19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-

[0056] 20 octadecanoic acid, cis-7, 10, 13, 16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid or tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS) and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Still other PPAR activators suitable for use include biochanin A (red clover phytoestrogen),

[0058] 25 chromolaena odorata extract, pomegranate saponifiable hydrolysable extract, buglossoides (stearidonic plant extract) or zanthalene (extract from Sichuan peppercorn), whereby it is within the scope of the invention to use a mixture of any of the herein noted PPAR activators. In an embodiment of the invention, the PPAR activator is petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid, ursolic acid or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the PPAR activator is selected from 12- hydroxy stearic acid, ursolic acid and mixtures thereof. In yet another embodiment of the invention, the PPAR activator is 12-hydroxystearic acid.

[0059] Typically, PPAR activator will make up from 0.005 to 8 %, preferably from 0.05 to 7 % more preferably, from 1 to 6%, and most preferably, from 1.5 to 4.5% by weight of the composition. P0001030 CPL

[0060] 6

[0061] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the Ceto C24 fatty acid used is palmitic acid and the PPAR activator is 12-hydroxystearic acid.

[0062] 2(b) & (c) the activator of LXR and RXR

[0063] 5 The LXR and RXR can be activated with either an LXR agonist (e.g. oxysterols or phytosterols) or a RXR agonist (e.g. 9-cis-13,14-dihydroretinoic acid). Suitable oxysterols include derivatives of cholesterol, such as 22(R)-hydroxycholesterol, 24(S)-hydroxycholesterol, 27- hydroxycholesterol, or cholestenoic acid, while suitable phytosterols include stigmasterol, desmosterol or brassicasterol.

[0064] 10

[0065] 3) Fattv alcohol

[0066] Fatty alcohols having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, most preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0067] 15 Illustrative examples of the fatty alcohols suitable for use in the present invention include, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof. As to the saccharides suitable for use, these include those that are soluble in the composition of the present invention. Illustrative examples of the saccharides suitable for use include glucose (dextrose monohydrate), galactose, sucrose, lactose, fructose, mixtures thereof or the like.

[0068] 20

[0069] The composition of the invention is suitable for topical application to skin, hair and / or scalp of mammals, especially human beings. Such a composition is generally applied on to the desired topical surface of the body for a period of time from a few seconds to up to 24 hours. When the period of time of application is low say of the order of a few seconds to a few minutes after

[0070] 25 which the composition is rinsed off with water or wiped away, such a composition is known as a cleansing composition or a wash-off composition. On the other hand, When the composition is applied for longer period of time say from several minutes to up to 24 hours and washed off usually during the process of normal personal cleaning, such a composition is known as a leave-on composition. The composition as per the present invention includes any product

[0071] 30 applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics.

[0072] The cosmetically acceptable carrier

[0073] The composition of the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically

[0074] 35 acceptable carrier is such that the composition can be prepared, e.g., as a shampoo, P0001030 CPL

[0075] 7 conditioner, mask, body wash, hand wash or face wash product, cream, lotion, serum, gel, powder, ointment, deodorant, hand sanitiser or a soap bar, preferably a conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, serum or gel. It is preferred that the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.

[0076] 5

[0077] It is preferred that the composition is a rinse-off or leave-on product, more preferably a hair care composition. Preferably the composition is a leave-on product. Alternatively, the composition is preferably a rinse off composition.

[0078] 10 Preferably the composition comprises a surfactant selected from a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and a zwitterionic surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant.

[0079] The composition of this invention may comprise a cleansing surfactant comprising an anionic

[0080] 15 surfactant.

[0081] Non-limiting examples of suitable anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl

[0082] 20 ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Typical

[0083] 25 anionic surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include, but not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate

[0084] 30 or mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferred anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates. Preferred alkyl sulphates are C8-18 alky sulphates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulphates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted

[0086] 35 ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS). It P0001030 CPL

[0087] 8 is particularly preferred that the anionic surfactant is alkyl ether sulphate. Preferred alkyl ether sulphates are those having the formula: RO(CH2CH2O)nSO3M; wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value of greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 1 and 2; and

[0088] 5 M is a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). Preferred alkyl ether sulphate is sodium lauryl ether sulphate having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably from 1 to 3, more preferably from 1 to 2.

[0089] It is preferred that the anionic surfactant is an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 3, preferably an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 2, more preferably sodium laureth sulphate (1 EO).

[0090] Alternatively, it is preferred that the surfactant is sulfate-free.

[0091] 15

[0092] The composition may comprise an alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant of general formula (II):

[0093] RI-CH=CH-CH2-SO3-M+(II)

[0094] 20 in which Ri is selected from linear or branched alkyl groups having from 11 to 13 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; and M is a solubilizing cation;

[0095] Preferably Ri in general formula (II) is a C14 or C16 linear alkyl group.

[0096] 25 Preferably M in general formula (II) is selected from alkali metal cations (such as sodium or potassium), ammonium cations and substituted ammonium cations (such as alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium).

[0097] Commercially produced alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactants of general formula (II) may be made by sulfating C14-16 olefins derived from natural gas. The process can also yield mixtures of homologues and low levels of unreacted olefins.

[0098] Particularly preferred is alpha olefin sulfonate with an average of 14-16 carbons. A suitable example of such a material is Bioterge AS40 (ex Stepan).

[0099] 35 P0001030 CPL

[0100] 9

[0101] The amount of alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant, at 100 % activity, of general formula (II) ranges from 3 to 13 %, preferably from 3.5 to 12%, more preferably from 3 to 10%, (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

[0102] 5 The composition may comprise an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, selected from an alkyl betaine of general formula (III)

[0103] R2-N+(CH3)2-CH2-COO- M+(III) wherein R2= C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (IV),

[0104] R3-N+(CH3)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-SO3- M+(IV)

[0105] 15 wherein R3= C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (V),

[0106] 20 R4-CO-NH-(CH2)3-N+(CH3)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-SO3- M+(V) wherein R4= C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl amphoacetate of general formula (VI),

[0107] 25

[0108] R5-CO-NH-(CH2)2-N(CH2-CH2-OH)(CH2-COO- M+) (VI) wherein Rs = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The preferred surfactant (III) is selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine and mixtures thereof. Alkyl hydroxy sultaines are preferred, particularly lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

[0110] 35 P0001030 CPL

[0111] 10

[0112] The amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of general formula (III), (IV), (V) or (VI) or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 1 to 6%, more preferably from 1.5 to 5%, most preferably from 2 to 3.5 % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).

[0113] 5 The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is preferably selected from a betaine amphoteric surfactant of general formula (III), which is coco betaine, an amphoteric surfactant of general formula (IV), which is lauryl hydroxy sultaine, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of from 1 to 4 % (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).

[0114] The combined amount of (II) and (III) ranges from 4 to 20 wt %, preferably from 5 to 17 wt %, most preferably from 8 to 15 wt % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).

[0115] The composition may comprise alpha olefin sulfonate in an amount ranging from 3.25 to 8% (by

[0116] 15 weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % active material); and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate or mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1 to 4 % by weight of the composition.

[0117] 20 The weight ratio of the alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant may range from 1:1 to 6:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 5.

[0118] The anionic surfactants are typically present in the composition of the present invention at a level of from 0.5 to 20%, more preferably from 2 to 16% and most preferably from 3 to 16%, by

[0119] 25 weight of the composition.

[0120] Suitable amphoteric surfactant examples include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, wherein the alkyl group has from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0121] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is a betaine surfactant. It is preferred that the betaine surfactant is one of alkyl amidopropyl betaines. Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is particularly preferred.

[0122] 35 P0001030 CPL

[0123] 11

[0124] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt.% of an amphoteric surfactant by weight of the composition.

[0125] 5 The ratio of ethoxylated anionic surfactant to amphoteric surfactant in which the ratio of anionic surfactant to amphoteric surfactant is less than 10:1, preferably from 2:1 to 10:1, more preferably from 3:1 to 9:1.

[0126] The total amount of cleansing surfactant in the composition for use in the invention is generally

[0127] 10 from 3 to 35 wt%, preferably from 5 to 25 wt%, most preferably from 7 to 16 wt% of the total composition.

[0128] When the composition is a leave-on composition, the composition may comprise a non-ionic surfactant, in an amount from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to

[0129] 15 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition. The non-ionic surfactant can be one fatty alcohol ethoxylate or polyethoxylated monoester. The fatty alcohol ethoxylate can be one of C12-C18 fatty alcohol ethoxylates. The polyethoxylated monoester can be selected from a group consisting of polysorbate 21 , polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 20.

[0130] 20

[0131] Typically leave-on compositions are substantially free from cleansing surfactants. Thus it is preferred that the composition comprises less than 1 wt% cleansing surfactant, more preferably less than 0.5 wt%, more preferably still less than 0.1% and most preferably from 0 to 0.01 wt%. Cleansing surfactants are typically anionic surfactants such as, for example, alkyl sulfates

[0132] 25 and / or alkyl ether sulfates.

[0133] The leave-on composition may comprise a moisturizing agent. Preferably the moisturizing agent is selected from the group consisting of 1 ,2-glycols, selected from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and C15-18 glycol.

[0134] 30

[0135] The leave-on composition may also comprise a thickening agent. The thickening agent may be a polymer, a cellulose, a xanthan gum, or a gelatin. Preferably the thickening agent is a natural material, preferably a polysaccharide or polysaccharide derived material, preferably selected from a xanthum gum, a guar gum, a carrageenan and cellulose derivatives.

[0136] 35 P0001030 CPL

[0137] 12

[0138] Hair care composition

[0139] Preferably the composition is a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask hair cream, hair gel, hair serum, lotion or mousse, most preferably a hair conditioner, hair mask, hair cream, hair serum or lotion.

[0140] 5

[0141] Shampoo compositions for use in the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component. Suitably, the shampoo composition will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 92% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Such compositions are referred to as having an aqueous base.

[0142] The hair care composition may additionally comprise a conditioning agent to provide conditioning benefit. Preferably, the hair care composition comprises discrete dispersed droplets of a water-insoluble conditioning agent, which has a mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of

[0143] 15 less than 15 microns, preferably less than 10 microns, more preferably less than 5 microns, most preferably less than 3 microns. The mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of a water-insoluble conditioning agent may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

[0144] 20 The water-insoluble conditioning agent may include non-silicone conditioning agent comprising non-silicone oily or fatty materials such as hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is emulsified silicone oil.

[0145] Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have

[0146] 25 the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96 / 31188. Preferably, the silicone oil comprises dimethicone, dimethiconol or a mixture thereof.

[0147] Suitable emulsified silicones for use in the hair care compositions of this invention are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsion is preferred for ease of processing and

[0148] 35 control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally P0001030 CPL

[0149] 13 comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer.

[0150] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include DC1785, DC1788, DC7128, all available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions of dimethiconol / dimethicone.

[0151] 5

[0152] Another class of silicones which may be used are functionalized silicones such as amino functional silicones, meaning a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation “amodimethicone.”

[0153] The water-insoluble conditioning agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount from 0.05 to 15%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, most preferably from 1 to 5%, based on total weight of the hair care composition.

[0154] 15 Preferably the composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acidcontaining monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain

[0155] 20 acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional

[0156] 25 agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

[0157] Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

[0158] Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of cross¬

[0159] 35 linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative. P0001030 CPL

[0160] 14

[0161] The suspending agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6%, and most preferably from 0.3 to 4%, based on total weight of the hair care composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.

[0162] 5

[0163] Preservatives may also be incorporated into the hair care composition of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Illustrative yet non-limiting examples of the types of preservatives that may be used in this invention include, for examples, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, caprylyl glycol, disodium EDTA or mixtures thereof. In an especially preferred embodiment, the preservative is sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate or a mixture thereof.

[0164] 15 Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight of the hair care composition.

[0165] It is further preferred that the hair care composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient. Preferably the cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of a silicone,

[0166] 20 an antibacterial agent other than antidandruff agents, a foam booster, a perfume, encapsulates (for example encapsulated fragrance) a dye, a colouring agent, a pigment, a preservative, a thickener, a protein, a phosphate ester, a buffering agent, a pH adjusting agent, a pearlescer (for example; mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate)) and / or opacifier, a viscosity modifier, an emollient, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a sensate active (for example menthol and menthol derivatives), vitamins, mineral oils, essential oils, lipids, natural actives, glycerin, natural hair nutrients such as botanical extracts, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids, microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0167] 30 Preferably, the composition of the present invention includes from 0.01 to 20 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, more preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt%, still more preferably from 0.075 to 7.5 wt% and most preferably, from 0.1 to 5 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, by weight of the total composition. P0001030 CPL

[0168] 15

[0169] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a hair conditioner. When conditioning benefits are to be delivered through the composition of the invention the composition is called a hair conditioner. Typically, the most popular conditioning agents used in hair care compositions are water-insoluble oily materials such as mineral oils, naturally occurring oils such as

[0170] 5 triglycerides and silicone polymers. Conditioning benefit is achieved by the oily material being deposited onto the hair resulting in the formation of a film, which makes the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry. An especially useful conditioning agent is a silicone, preferably a non-volatile silicone. Advantageously compositions herein may include one or more silicones. The silicones are conditioning agents found in dispersed or suspended

[0171] 10 particulate form. They are intended to deposit onto hair remaining behind after rinsing of the hair with water. Suitable silicone oils may include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Amino silicones are often formulated with shampoo compositions. Amino silicones are silicones containing at least one primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0172] 15 High molecular weight silicone gums can also be utilized. Another useful type are the crosslinked silicone elastomers such as Dimethicone / Vinyl / Dimethicone Crosspolymers (e.g. Dow Corning 9040 and 9041).

[0173] It is preferred that hair conditioner composition of the invention comprises 0.1 to

[0174] 20 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt% silicone. Alternatively, the hair conditioner is silicone-free, containing not more than 1 wt% silicone. It is preferred that pH of the composition is more than 4.0, more preferably 5.0 to 7.0.

[0175] Water-insoluble oily materials such as mineral oils, naturally occurring oils such as triglycerides

[0176] 25 may be present. These are preferably present at 0.05 to 15 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 5 wt%, and most preferably less than 5 wt %, for example 0.05 to 4 wt %, based on total weight of the hair care composition.

[0177] 30 Hair conditioner composition of the invention preferably may also comprise 0.5 to 10 wt% fatty alcohol.

[0178] Conditioners according to the invention preferably comprise a conditioning gel phase, preferably

[0179] 35 comprising a fatty alcohol and a cationic surfactant. P0001030 CPL

[0180] 16

[0181] The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. A lamellar phase having a low vesicle content is preferred. Such conditioners and methods for making them are described in

[0182] 5 WO2014 / 016354, WO2014 / 016353, WO2012 / 016352 and WO2014 / 016351.

[0183] Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of

[0184] 10 these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

[0185] Another type of lamellar phase may be formed in a shampoo composition. Here the anionic surfactants form a structured lamellar phase.

[0186] 15

[0187] Preferably, the composition of the invention further comprises an emulsifier to assist in the stabilisation of the composition. Any suitable emulisifer may be used. A preferred emulsifier is a glucoside / alcohol mixture, preferably where the components have chain lengths of C12- C18, preferably Coco-glucoside / Coconut alcohol (for example Montanov Stm).

[0188] 20

[0189] When included, the total amount of structurant is generally 0.1 to 10 %, preferably from 0.1 to 3 %, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.5 % (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

[0190] Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description

[0191] 25 indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

[0192] All amounts are by weight of the final hair care composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0193] 30 It should be noted that in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.

[0194] For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not

[0195] 35 be exhaustive. P0001030 CPL

[0196] The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

[0197] Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a

[0198] 5 composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

[0199] The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.

[0200] The examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples perse.

[0201] Example 1

[0202] 15

[0203] The compositions shown in the table below, in accordance with the invention, may be prepared using the method below.

[0204] Table 1 : Conditioner compositions 1-6, in accordance with the invention

[0205] Formulations can be made by adding the cationic surfactants to the fatty alcohol and stirring to melt. Gradually this mixture is added to water, typically at about 50 - 55 °C, such that the

[0206] 25 mixture temperature was 60°C. and stirred until a gel phase is formed. The mixture is then cooled towards ambient by adding more water, and other ambient temperature ingredients, and using external cooling if required, and stirred. P0001030 CPL

[0207] Example 2 - Treatment of hair follicles

[0208] 2A) Deuterated palmitic acid and 12-HSA

[0209] Deuterated palmitic acid and 12-HSA were added to hair follicles using the following protocol:

[0210] • Hair follicles were suspended in a liquid growth medium

[0211] 5 • The deuterated palmitic acid and / or 12-HSA were added and dissolved in the medium

[0212] • The tissues were grown for 5 days

[0213] • The lipids were extracted from the tissue and analysed by LC-MS to determine the presence of deuterated lipids in the hair follicles.

[0214] 10 Following the 5 day growth period, deuterated fatty acids (C16 and C18) were detected in the hair follicles. The presence of the deuterated C18 fatty acids is evidence of the incorporation of the deuterated C16 fatty acid and its biological elongation.

[0215] Table 2: Average peak areas after treatment with deuterated palmitic acid and 12-HSA

[0216] Table 3:Std Deviation:

[0217] 2B) Deuterated Sphingosine:

[0218] The experiment was repeated for deuterated sphingosine, using a DMSO control

[0219] 20

[0220] Table 4: Average peak areas after treatment with deuterated Sphingosine P0001030 CPL

[0221] 19

[0222] Table 5:Std Deviation:

[0223] Example 3 - Treatment of the sebaceous gland

[0224] The experiment was repeated using human sebaceous gland cells, using the same method as 5 above except for the culture time, which was 3 days, not 5 days.

[0225] 3A) Deuterated palmitic acid

[0226] Table 6: Average peak areas after treatment of the sebaceous gland cells with deuterated palmitic acid

[0227] 10

[0228] Table 7: Std Deviation:

[0229] 3B) Deuterated Sphingosine:

[0230] The experiment was repeated for deuterated sphingosine, using a DMSO control

[0231] 15

[0232] Table 8: Average peak areas after treatment of the sebaceous gland cells with deuterated

[0233] Sphingosine P0001030 CPL

[0234] 20

[0235] Table 9: Std Deviation:

[0236] Following the 3 day growth period, deuterated fatty acids (C16, C18 & C20) were detected in the hair follicles. The presence of the deuterated C18 and C20 fatty acids is evidence of the

[0237] 5 incorporation of the deuterated C16 fatty acid and its biological elongation.

Claims

P0001030 CPL21Claims1. A composition comprising at least one of:1) 0.05 to 8 wt % of a lipid precursor selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid having a chain of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof;2) 0.05 to 8.0 wt % of a gene activator material that modulates the biosynthesis of lipids in the hair follicle or the sebaceous gland, selected from a) at least one activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR activator), b) at least one activator of a liver X receptor (LXR), and c) at least one activator of a retinoid X receptor (RXR); and mixtures thereof; and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the fatty acid has a chain of 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18, most preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the fatty acid is selected from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, nonanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, nonanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the peroxisome proliferator- activated receptor is selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, ursolic acid and mixtures thereof, preferable 12-hydroxystearic acid.

5. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the LXR and RXR is activated with either an LXR agonist that is an oxysterol, or an RXR agonist that is 9-cis-13,14- dihydroretinoic acid.

6. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.P0001030 CPL227. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is such that the composition can be prepared as a conditioner, cream, mask, lotion, serum or gel.

8. A composition as claimed in claim 8, which comprises a conditioning gel phase comprising a fatty alcohol and a cationic surfactant.

9. A composition as claimed in claim 8, which comprises a lamellar phase.

10. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which comprises a thickener, preferably a polysaccharide based thickener.

11. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim which is a leave-on product.12 A composition as claimed in any preceding claim that further comprises a surfactant selected from a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and a zwitterionic surfactant.

13. A method for treating the follicle or the sebaceous gland, preferably growing hair, comprising the steps of: i) contacting the follicle or the sebaceous gland with a composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 12; ii) such that a Cwto C36 fatty acid, lipid or both form within the follicle or sebaceous gland; and iii) the Cw to C36 fatty acid, lipid or both are incorporated into the follicle or sebaceous gland, preferably the growing hair fibre.

14. A method as claimed in claim 12, wherein the contacting is achieved by topical or ingestible means.

15. A use of a composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 12 to form a C to C36 fatty acid, a lipid or both in the follicle or sebaceous gland, and preferably the C to C36 fatty acid, a lipid or both are deposited onto or incorporated into the growing hair fibre.

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