Intelligent zoning oil control composition specially researched for oil sensitive skin and application of intelligent zoning oil control composition

Abstract

The invention discloses an intelligent partitioned oil control composition specially researched for oil sensitive skin and application of the intelligent partitioned oil control composition, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The oil control composition provided by the invention is prepared from the following components in parts by mass: 0.5 to 10 parts of a phellinus linteus source active ingredient, 0.5 to 10 parts of nicotinamide, 0.01 to 5 parts of panthenol, 0.1 to 10 parts of acetylchitosamine and 0.01 to 5 parts of glycosylglycerol, the active component of the medicinal phellinus igniarius source comprises at least one of a medicinal phellinus igniarius extract and a medicinal phellinus igniarius-lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product. According to the invention, the components with proper mass parts are selected, and the components cooperate with one another to act together, so that oil control and moisture retention can be effectively realized, the skin barrier ability can be improved, and full-face intelligent partitioned oil control and moisture retention can be realized; the composition provided by the invention is mild and non-irritant, and is suitable for sensitive skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an intelligent zone oil control composition specifically developed for oily and sensitive skin and its application. Background Art

[0002] Due to significant differences in the distribution and activity of sebaceous glands in different facial regions of combination skin, it often presents a contradictory state of "excessive oil secretion in the T-zone and dryness and sensitivity in the U-zone". The pain points in its care lie in the difficulty of traditional skin care products in achieving precise regional regulation: using a single oil control product is likely to damage the barrier of the dry area, resulting in flushing and desquamation; relying solely on moisturizing products may exacerbate pore clogging in the oily area and cause dullness and clogged pores. Consumers are often forced to stack multiple types of products, but due to poor formula compatibility or conflicts between active ingredients, it instead exacerbates the water-oil imbalance and even induces skin sensitivity problems. For example, frequent use of adsorbent ingredients (such as kaolin) in the oily area can temporarily relieve oiliness, but excessive stripping of sebum will trigger compensatory oil production, forming a vicious cycle of "the more it is controlled, the oilier it becomes"; in the dry area, if only relying on occlusive moisturizers (such as petrolatum), it may weaken the skin's self-regulating ability and lead to weakened barrier.

[0003] In the prior art, oil control ingredients (such as salicylic acid, zinc sulfate) mostly focus on inhibiting sebum secretion or physical adsorption, but lack dynamic regulation of sebaceous gland activity and regional adaptability, and cannot relieve the barrier pressure in the dry area simultaneously; moisturizing ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid, ceramide) can increase the water content of the stratum corneum, but it is difficult to inhibit excessive sebum overflow in the oily area. More critically, most formula designs do not establish a dynamic balance mechanism of "oil control - moisturizing", neither can they adjust the regional response threshold of sebaceous glands through signal pathways, nor can they intelligently adjust the water-lipid film state according to changes in the skin microenvironment, resulting in a long-term technical dilemma of "taking one thing while losing another" in the care of combination skin. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the above-mentioned prior art and provide an intelligent zone oil control composition specifically developed for oily and sensitive skin, which has good oil control and moisturizing performance, can enhance the skin barrier ability, and can also achieve intelligent zone oil control and moisturizing, as well as its application.

[0005] To achieve the above purpose, in the first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an intelligent zone oil control composition specifically developed for oily and sensitive skin, and the oil control composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:

[0006] Active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis 0.5 - 10 parts, niacinamide 0.5 - 10 parts, panthenol 0.01 - 5 parts, N-acetylglucosamine 0.1 - 10 parts, glucosylglycerol 0.01 - 5 parts;

[0007] The active ingredients derived from Fomes officinalis include at least one of Fomes officinalis extract and the two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0008] By selecting appropriate parts by mass of the components, and the components cooperate with each other and act together, it can effectively synergistically inhibit sebum gland activity, regulate keratin metabolism, and dynamically balance the water-lipid film through multiple pathways, so as to achieve intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing of the face; establish a "oil control-moisturizing" dynamic balance mechanism, that is, reduce sebum secretion in the oil-rich area and enhance the skin barrier moisturizing ability in the dry area; thus, by using one product at the same time, not only can good moisturizing, oil control, and skin barrier improvement effects be achieved, but also intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing can be realized, achieving full-face oil control without dryness; and the composition provided by the present invention is mild and non-irritating, and is suitable for sensitive skin.

[0009] Specifically, the inventors speculate that each component has the following effects: The active ingredients derived from Fomes officinalis are rich in triterpenoids and polysaccharides. Its natural triterpenoids can inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase and regulate the lipid balance factor miR-29, thereby precisely regulating the excessive secretion of local sebum. At the same time, the polysaccharide component forms a breathable and water-retaining film to prevent dryness. As a derivative of vitamin B3, niacinamide enhances the skin barrier function by upregulating ceramide synthesis and selectively acts on sebaceous gland cells to reduce the secretion amount of triglycerides. Panthenol (provitamin B5) is used as a penetrative moisturizer to synergistically enhance the water content of the stratum corneum with niacinamide and directionally strengthen the hydration in the dry area by activating the expression of aquaporin AQP3. N-acetylglucosamine is derived from the hydrolysis product of chitin, which can target and decompose the desmosomes between keratinocytes, gently promote keratin metabolism in the area with strong oil secretion, and prevent pore blockage. Glucosylglycerol, as a plant-derived glycoside compound, activates the endogenous hyaluronic acid synthase in the skin to establish a dynamic moisturizing network in the oil control area, balancing the activity of sebaceous glands and the epidermal hydration degree. Based on the above-mentioned effects of the components, there are still unpredictable synergistic or antagonistic effects between the components. However, based on the component combination and parts by mass of the components provided by the present invention, the intelligent response effect of zonal regulation of the composition can be finally achieved, realizing full-face oil control and moisturizing without dryness, and effectively enhancing the skin barrier ability.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, the oil control composition includes the following components in parts by mass: 1-8 parts of active ingredients derived from Fomes officinalis, 1-8 parts of niacinamide, 0.1-1 part of panthenol, 1-5 parts of N-acetylglucosamine, and 0.1-1 part of glucosylglycerol.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, the oil control composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3-5 parts of active ingredients derived from medicinal pore fungi, 3-5 parts of niacinamide, 0.3-0.5 parts of panthenol, 2-3 parts of acetyl glucosamine, and 0.3-0.5 parts of glycerol glucoside.

[0012] The present invention has been found that when the mass parts of the components in the oil control composition are further selected to be within the above range, the mutual coordination effect of the components in the composition is better, and the resulting composition not only has better oil control and moisturizing effects, but also has a stronger effect in improving the skin barrier ability; in addition, the "oil control-moisturizing" dynamic balance mechanism of the resulting composition is more perfect, which can better inhibit the activity of sebaceous glands in areas with vigorous oil secretion, regulate keratin metabolism, enhance the skin hydration in dry areas, and improve its skin barrier ability, thereby gently achieving intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing for the entire face, and achieving good oil control without drying out the skin.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, based on the total mass of the oil control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from the medicinal pore fungus and panthenol is 38-40%.

[0014] Illustratively, based on the total mass of the oil control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the medicinal pore fungus-derived active ingredient and panthenol may be any point value or any two point range values between 38-40%, for example, 38%, 38.2%, 38.4%, 38.6%, 38.8%, 39%, 39.2%, 39.4%, 39.6%, 39.8%, 40%, etc.

[0015] The present invention has found that the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus and panthenol in the oil control composition can better realize the establishment of the "oil control-moisturizing" balance mechanism, and achieve a more excellent effect of zoned oil control and moisturizing; specifically, it can better inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase and promote the expression of lipid balance factor miR-29 in the oil-secreting area, while inhibiting the expression of lipid balance factor miR-29 in the dry area; thereby effectively realizing zoned oil control, and on the basis of zoned oil control, it can better and directionally enhance the hydration of the dry area, thereby improving the skin's water content and skin barrier capacity.

[0016] Preferably, the active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus is a bidirectional fermentation product of medicinal pore fungus and Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0017] The present invention has found through research that the use of active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis can well cooperate with other components to regulate sebum secretion, keratin synthesis, aquaporin activation, skin water content, etc. in different regions. Especially when the active ingredient derived from Phellinus officinalis is further selected as the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum, on the basis of retaining a certain amount of triterpenoid compounds and polysaccharide compounds inherent in Phellinus officinalis, specific active substances that were not present before the fermentation of Phellinus officinalis can also be obtained through the bidirectional fermentation of Lactobacillus plantarum. Therefore, it can better achieve the intelligent zonal regulation of oil control and moisturization, and can also better enhance the barrier ability of the skin.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum includes the following steps:

[0019] (1) Mix the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid and Phellinus officinalis in a mass ratio of (0.5 - 3):1 and perform anaerobic fermentation to obtain a fermentation product;

[0020] (2) Cool the fermentation product to 2 - 6°C and then perform cyclic treatment in a microfluidic homogenizer, and finally break and centrifuge, collect the supernatant and dry it to obtain the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0021] The present invention has found through research that after the bidirectional fermentation of Phellinus officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum in the above manner in a specific mass ratio and applying it to the composition of the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained composition is better.

[0022] Exemplarily, the mass ratio of the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid to Phellinus officinalis can be any point value or any two-point range value between (0.5 - 3):1, such as 0.5:1, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, etc.

[0023] It should be noted that the Phellinus officinalis also includes a pre-treatment step before being mixed with the Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation broth; the pre-treatment of the Phellinus officinalis includes: crushing the dried fruiting body of Phellinus officinalis to 40 - 60 meshes and then sterilizing it.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, in the step (1), the temperature of the anaerobic fermentation is 37 ± 2°C, and the time of the anaerobic fermentation is 48 - 72 h.

[0025] Exemplarily, the time of the anaerobic fermentation can be any point value or any two-point range value between 48 - 72 h, such as 48 h, 60 h, 72 h, etc.

[0026] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, in the step (1), based on the total volume of the medicinal Phellinus linteus and the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid, 1-3% g / mL of glucose and 0.03-0.07% g / mL of magnesium sulfate are further added for anaerobic fermentation.

[0027] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, in the step (2), the pressure of the circulation treatment is 1000-1500 bar, the temperature of the circulation treatment is <40 °C, and the number of times of the circulation treatment is 3-5 times.

[0028] Preferably, in the step (2), the pressure of the circulation treatment is 1200-1400 bar, and the temperature of the circulation treatment is 20-30 °C.

[0029] Preferably, in the step (2), during the circulation treatment of the microfluidic homogenizer, the stirring speed is 500-800 rpm.

[0030] The present invention researches and discovers that in the microfluidic extraction process of the step (2), after cooling the fermentation product to 2-6 °C first and then extracting within the above parameter range, while improving the extraction efficiency, active components that can cooperate with other components can be effectively extracted, thereby enhancing the comprehensive effect of the oil-control composition.

[0031] Preferably, the rotation speed of the crushing and centrifugation is 10000-14000 g, and the time is 10-30 min.

[0032] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid includes the following steps: inoculating Lactobacillus plantarum into MRS liquid medium for anaerobic fermentation until the OD600 value is 1.2-1.5 to obtain the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid.

[0033] Preferably, the inoculation amount of the Lactobacillus plantarum is 1-5% (V / V).

[0034] Preferably, the temperature of the anaerobic fermentation is 37±2 °C, and the time of the anaerobic fermentation is 18-24 h.

[0035] Preferably, the Lactobacillus plantarum is any one of ATCC BAA-793 and ATCC 10241.

[0036] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the medicinal Phellinus linteus extract includes the following steps: taking the dried and pulverized medicinal Phellinus linteus and adding it to a deep eutectic solvent for ultrasonic extraction, standing and centrifuging after the extraction is completed, collecting the supernatant and concentrating and drying it to obtain the medicinal Phellinus linteus extract; the deep eutectic solvent includes betaine and glucosylglycerol.

[0037] Preferably, the preparation method of the eutectic solvent comprises the following steps: mixing betaine and glucosylglycerol in a molar ratio of 1:(2-3), then stirring at 60-120 °C for 3-12 h, and then adding ultrapure water to obtain the eutectic solvent; in the eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of water is 20-70%.

[0038] Preferably, the mass-to-volume ratio of Phellinus officinalis and the eutectic solvent is 1 g:(10-50) mL.

[0039] Preferably, the temperature of the ultrasonic extraction is 20-30 °C, the power is 80-120 W, and the time is 0.5-1.5 h.

[0040] Preferably, the standing time is 20-28 h.

[0041] The present invention has found through research that when the extract of Phellinus officinalis is further selected to be prepared by the above preparation method, the partition oil control and moisturizing ability of the composition obtained after being applied to the composition is better.

[0042] In the second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides the application of the oil control composition in the preparation of skin care products.

[0043] The oil control composition provided by the present invention can achieve an intelligent partition oil control effect by targeting and inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands, regulating keratin metabolism, and dynamically balancing the water-lipid film through multiple pathways in a coordinated manner, reducing sebum secretion in the oily area and enhancing the barrier moisturizing ability in the dry area, thereby achieving a good compound effect of oil control without dryness and mild adaptation to sensitive skin; therefore, it can be widely applied to the preparation of skin care products.

[0044] As a preferred embodiment of the application of the present invention, the skin care product includes any one of lotion, emulsion, cream, mask, essence, and spray.

[0045] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a cream, which comprises the following components in mass percentage: 1-10% of the oil control composition of the present invention, 0.1-1% of a thickener, 0.5-5% of a moisturizer, 8-15% of an emulsifier, 0.01-0.3% of a pH regulator, 0.5-3% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

[0046] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the cream comprises the following components in mass percentage: 4-6% of the oil control composition of the present invention, 0.3-0.5% of a thickener, 0.8-1.2% of a moisturizer, 9-12% of an emulsifier, 0.18-0.22% of a pH regulator, 1.2-1.8% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

[0047] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the thickener includes at least one of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, carbomer, carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, ethyl cellulose, tara gum, guar gum, acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and acrylate copolymer.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the humectant includes at least one of glycerol, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propanediol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine, allantoin, low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyacrylate, and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0049] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the emulsifier includes at least one of triglyceride caprylate / caprate, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, polydimethylsiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, and sucrose stearate.

[0050] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the pH regulator includes at least one of arginine, disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, tromethamine, and EDTA-disodium.

[0051] As a preferred embodiment of the cream of the present invention, the preservative includes at least one of hydroxyacetophenone and polyol.

[0052] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0053] By selecting appropriate parts by mass of the components and having the components cooperate with each other, the present invention can effectively synergize through multiple pathways such as targeting and inhibiting sebum gland activity, regulating keratin metabolism, and dynamically balancing the water-lipid film, achieving good moisturizing and oil control effects and enhancing the skin barrier ability; at the same time, the composition provided by the present invention provides intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing for the face, that is, establishing a dynamic balance mechanism of "oil control - moisturizing", reducing sebum secretion in the oily area and enhancing the skin barrier moisturizing ability in the dry area; thus, intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing can be achieved by using one product at the same time, achieving full-face oil control without dryness; moreover, the composition provided by the present invention is mild and non-irritating and is suitable for sensitive skin. Specific Embodiments

[0054] To better illustrate the purpose, technical solution, and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0055] Unless otherwise specified, the reagents, methods, and equipment used in the present invention are conventional reagents, methods, and equipment in the art; and unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch.

[0056] Nicotinamide: Purchased from Royal DSM.

[0057] Panthenol: Purchased from Royal DSM.

[0058] N-acetylglucosamine: Purchased from Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0059] Glucosylglycerol: Purchased from Bitop GmbH, Germany.

[0060] Active ingredient 1 derived from Fomes officinalis: A two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The preparation method includes the following steps:

[0061] (1) Inoculate Lactobacillus plantarum (ATCC BAA-793) into MRS liquid medium (purchased from Thermo Fisher) at an inoculation amount of 3% (V / V), and anaerobically ferment at 37°C for 20 h until the OD600 value reaches 1.4 to obtain a Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid.

[0062] (2) Crush the dried fruiting bodies of Fomes officinalis (purchased from Bozhou Man Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., Anhui Province) to 40 mesh and sterilize at 121°C for 15 min to obtain Fomes officinalis powder.

[0063] (3) Mix the Fomes officinalis powder and the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid at a mass ratio of 1:2, and add 2% g / mL of glucose and 0.05% g / mL of magnesium sulfate based on the total volume of the Fomes officinalis powder and the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid. Then anaerobically ferment at 37°C for 60 h to obtain a fermentation product.

[0064] (4) Pre-cool the fermentation product to 4°C, then use a microfluidic homogenizer to circulate and process it 4 times at a pressure of 1200 bar, a stirring speed of 600 rpm, and a temperature of 25°C. After the circulation process is completed, break it, then centrifuge at a speed of 12000 g for 20 min, collect the supernatant and vacuum dry it at 25°C to obtain active ingredient 1 derived from Fomes officinalis.

[0065] Active ingredient 2 derived from Fomes officinalis: A two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis and Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The difference between the preparation method and that of the two-way fermentation product 1 is that the mass ratio of the Fomes officinalis powder to the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid is 1:4.

[0066] Active ingredient 3 derived from Fomes officinalis: The two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The difference in the preparation method from the two-way fermentation product 1 is that the mass ratio of Fomes officinalis powder to Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid is 1:0.3.

[0067] Active ingredient 4 derived from Fomes officinalis: The two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The difference in the preparation method from the two-way fermentation product 1 is that Lactobacillus plantarum is ATCC 10241.

[0068] Active ingredient 5 derived from Fomes officinalis: The two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The difference in the preparation method from the two-way fermentation product 1 is that it is cyclically processed 4 times using a microfluidic homogenizer at a pressure of 1200 bar and a temperature of 45 °C.

[0069] Active ingredient 6 derived from Fomes officinalis: Fomes officinalis extract, self-made. The preparation method includes the following steps: Take the dry powder of Fomes officinalis (the material passing through an 80-mesh sieve) and a deep eutectic solvent (a mixture of betaine and glucosylglycerol in a molar ratio of 1:2, stirred at 60 °C for 3 h, and then ultra-pure water is added to obtain a deep eutectic solvent with a water content of 30%). After mixing them in a mass ratio of 1 g:20 mL, ultrasonic extraction is carried out at a power of 100 W at 25 °C for 60 min, then left to stand for 24 h and centrifuged at a speed of 6000 rpm for 20 min. Finally, the supernatant is taken, concentrated, and vacuum dried at 25 °C to obtain the Fomes officinalis extract.

[0070] Active ingredient 7 derived from Fomes officinalis: Self-made. The preparation method includes the following steps: Take the dry powder of Fomes officinalis and 50% ethanol aqueous solution and mix them in a mass ratio of 1:15, then carry out ultrasonic extraction at a power of 120 W at 60 °C for 10 min, then centrifuge to take the supernatant, concentrate it, and vacuum dry it at 25 °C to obtain the Fomes officinalis extract.

[0071] Active ingredient 8 derived from Fomes officinalis: The two-way fermentation product of Fomes officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum, self-made. The difference in the preparation method from the two-way fermentation product 1 is that yeast (ATCC 204508) is used to replace Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0072] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-7

[0073] The examples and comparative examples of the present invention provide an oil-control composition. The components (parts by mass) of the oil-control composition are shown in Table 1; where W represents the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from Fomes officinalis and panthenol based on the total mass parts of the oil-control composition.

[0074] Table 1

[0075]

[0076]

[0077] The preparation method of the oil-control composition provided in Example 1 is: mixing the components to obtain the oil-control composition.

[0078] The preparation methods of the oil-control compositions provided in Examples 2-6 and Comparative Examples 1-7 are the same as those in Example 1; if there are no relevant components, they can be omitted.

[0079] Example 7

[0080] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 2 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0081] Example 8

[0082] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 3 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0083] Example 9

[0084] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 4 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0085] Example 10

[0086] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 5 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0087] Example 11

[0088] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 6 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0089] Example 12

[0090] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 7 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0091] Comparative Example 8

[0092] An embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that in Example 1 is that the active ingredient 8 derived from Phellinus linteus is used to replace the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus linteus.

[0093] Comparative Example 9

[0094] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that of Example 1 is that the active ingredient 1 derived from Phellinus officinalis is replaced with Lactobacillus / Erigeron canadensis ferment extract (purchased from Synsil, USA).

[0095] Comparative Example 10

[0096] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that of Example 1 is that nicotinamide is replaced with nicotinic acid (purchased from Guangdong Osmann Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0097] Comparative Example 11

[0098] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that of Example 1 is that panthenol is replaced with ubiquinone (purchased from Guangzhou Snowke Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0099] Comparative Example 12

[0100] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that of Example 1 is that N-acetylglucosamine is replaced with chitosan (purchased from Guangdong Osmann Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0101] Comparative Example 13

[0102] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and that of Example 1 is that glucosylglycerol is replaced with cetearyl glucoside (purchased from Shaanxi Yinuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0103] Application Examples 1-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-13 and Blank Application Example

[0104] The application examples, comparative application examples and blank application example of the present invention provide a cream. The components (mass percentage) of the cream are shown in Table 2; among them, the oil-control compositions used in Application Examples 1-12 are the oil-control compositions prepared in Examples 1-12 respectively. For example, the oil-control composition used in Application Example 1 is the oil-control composition in Example 1, the oil-control composition used in Application Example 2 is the oil-control composition in Example 2, and so on; the oil-control compositions used in Comparative Application Examples 1-13 are the oil-control compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-13 respectively; the oil-control compositions used in Application Examples 13-14 are the oil-control compositions prepared in Example 1;

[0105] Table 2

[0106]

[0107]

[0108] The preparation method of the cream provided in Application Example 1 includes the following steps:

[0109] (1) Mix the humectant and thickener with water and stir. After heating to 85 ± 2 °C, homogenize at a rotation speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min. After the homogenization is completed, keep it warm for standby to obtain the prefabricated Component A;

[0110] (2) Mix the emulsifier and heat it to 85 ± 2 °C. Then, homogenize at a rotation speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min. After the homogenization is completed, keep it warm for standby to obtain the prefabricated Component B;

[0111] (3) Mix the preservative and heat it to 60 ± 2 °C to melt to obtain the prefabricated Component C;

[0112] (4) Heat the prefabricated Component A to 80 ± 2 °C and add the prefabricated Component B at a rotation speed of 250 rpm, stir and mix. Then, cool down to 60 ± 2 °C and add the prefabricated Component C at a rotation speed of 250 rpm and stir and mix. Subsequently, cool down to 40 °C, add the oil-control composition and continue to stir for 8 min. Finally, add the remaining pH regulator to adjust the pH to 6.0, then stop stirring and discharge to obtain the cream.

[0113] The preparation methods of the creams provided in Application Examples 2-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-13 and Blank Application Example are the same as that of Application Example 1. Just do not add the relevant components if they are not available.

[0114] Effect Example 1

[0115] This invention's Effect Example explores the effects of the oil-control compositions prepared in Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-13, including the following aspects:

[0116] 1. In vitro experiments prove that the oil-control composition inhibits 5α-reductase, and its inhibitory ability in the T-zone is higher than that in the U-zone

[0117] The activity level of sebum secretion is closely related to the activity of 5α-reductase. This enzyme can convert testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, directly stimulating the proliferation of sebaceous glands and lipid synthesis. Existing research shows that the density and activity of sebaceous glands in the T-zone (forehead, nose) of the human face are significantly higher than those in the U-zone (cheeks), and the pH value is lower (the average pH value in the T-zone is 5.1, and the average pH value in the U-zone is 5.3), and the temperature is higher (the average temperature in the T-zone is 34 °C, and the average temperature in the U-zone is 32 °C). In this experiment, by simulating the temperature and pH values of the T-zone and U-zone, the inhibitory ability of the composition on 5α-reductase under different conditions was measured. If the inhibitory ability of the composition on 5α-reductase in the T-zone is higher than that in the U-zone, it indicates that the composition can control oil in a smart zoned manner. The test method is as follows:

[0118] (1) Preparation of experimental reagents: Weigh 1.00 g of the oil-control compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples respectively, dissolve them in phosphate buffer solution and make up the volume to 100 mL to obtain a sample working solution with a concentration of 1.0%; weigh 0.42 g of NADPH disodium salt powder, dissolve it in phosphate buffer solution and make up the volume to 100 mL to obtain a NADPH solution with a concentration of 5 mM; accurately weigh 5.8 mg of testosterone powder, dissolve it in 1 mL of DMSO, then add phosphate buffer solution and make up the volume to 100 mL to obtain a testosterone solution with a concentration of 0.2 mM; after parallel dissolution of the above sample working solution, NADPH solution and testosterone solution, adjust them to pH values of 5.1 and 5.3 respectively to simulate the pH conditions of the T zone and U zone;

[0119] (2) Reaction system: Add 1 mL of sample working solution, 1 mL of enzyme solution (the concentration of 5α-reductase is 1 mg / mL, sourced from Guangdong Pharmaceutical University), 1 mL of NADPH solution and 1 mL of testosterone solution into a test tube for the sample group; add 1 mL of phosphate buffer solution, 1 mL of enzyme solution, 1 mL of NADPH solution and 1 mL of testosterone solution into a test tube for the blank group;

[0120] (3) Detection of 5α-reductase inhibition rate: Gently shake the solution in the test tube, use a pipette to aspirate 200 μL and add it into a 96-well microplate reader, and measure the absorbance at 340 nm, which is the first measured value A 样品0 (for the sample group) and A 酶0 (for the blank group); after incubation at 34 °C (T zone, pH value in the test tube is 5.1) or 32 °C (U zone, pH value in the test tube is 5.3) for 20 minutes respectively, put it into the microplate reader for detection, and measure the absorbance at 340 nm, which is the second measured value A 样品20 (for the sample group) and A 酶20 (for the blank group); each sample is tested in parallel 3 times and the average value of the tests is taken. The calculation formula is as follows:

[0121]

[0122] The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0123] 2. In vitro experiments prove that the composition regulates the lipid balance factor miR-29, and its regulatory ability in the T zone is stronger than that in the U zone

[0124] Studies have shown the negative feedback regulation mechanism of microRNA-29 (miR-29) in regulating lipid metabolism, that is, while external stimuli promote lipid secretion, excessive lipids will in turn inhibit lipid synthesis. Among them, the members of the miR-29 family include miR-29a, miR-29b, and miR-29c. Although previous studies have shown that a composition containing Phellinus linteus extract can inhibit sebum secretion by upregulating the expression of miR-29, currently, no composition has been found that can promote sebum synthesis by downregulating the expression of miR-29 in the case of sebum deficiency. In this experiment, by simulating the temperature and pH values of the T-zone and U-zone, the regulatory ability of the composition on miR-29b under different conditions was measured. If the composition promotes the expression of miR-29b under T-zone conditions and inhibits the expression of miR-29b under U-zone conditions, it indicates that the composition can control oil secretion in an intelligent zoning manner.

[0125] The cell line used was human sebaceous gland cells SZ95 (Shanghai Qingqi Biotechnology, BFN60807569), with the passage number being 7. The test conditions for the T-zone were: incubator temperature 34 °C, medium pH value 5.1, humidity 90 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; the test conditions for the U-zone were: incubator temperature 32 °C, medium pH value 5.3, humidity 50 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; cell culture was carried out according to the grouping, and then tests were conducted. The specific test was the detection of miR-29b expression, and the test method was as follows:

[0126] (1) Inoculate the cell suspension into a 96-well cell culture plate, with a density of 1.0*10 4 cells / well, and add 100 μL of DMEM medium (Gibco, C11965500BT) to each well, and culture for 18 - 24 h;

[0127] (2) Discard the supernatant. In the control group, add 100 μL of medium, and in the sample groups, add 100 μL of medium containing the composition prepared from the examples and comparative examples at 0.2% w / v (g / mL) respectively;

[0128] (3) After incubating for 48 h, discard the supernatant, and use real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR to detect the miR-29b gene expression levels of the human sebaceous gland cells in each group above, using U6 as the internal reference gene. The primer sequences for miR-29b used were:

[0129] 5’-ACACTCCAGCTGGGTAGCACCATTTGAAATCAG-3’,

[0130] 5’-CTCAACTGGTGTCGTGGA-3’,

[0131] 5’-CTCAACTGGTGTCGTGGAGTCGGCAATTCAGTTGAGAACACTGAT-3’;

[0132] The U6 primer sequence used is:

[0133] 5’-CTCGCTTCGGCAGCACA-3’,

[0134] 5’-AACGCTTCACGAATTTGCGT-3’,

[0135] 5’-AACGCTTCACGAATTTGCGT-3’.

[0136] The calculation formula is as follows:

[0137] miR-29b change rate = (miR-29b expression level 样品处理 / miR-29b expression level 空白对照 -1) * 100%;

[0138] The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0139] 3. In vitro experiments prove the zonal moisturizing of the composition

[0140] Experimental method: The cell model used is a human 3D epidermal skin model (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.). The test conditions for the T zone are: incubator temperature 34 °C, medium pH value 5.1, humidity 90 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; the test conditions for the U zone are: incubator temperature 32 °C, medium pH value 5.3, humidity 50 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%. According to the grouping, 3D epidermal model culture and treatment are carried out, and then tests are carried out. The specific test is the measurement of skin water content. The test method is as follows:

[0141] (1) The 3D epidermal skin model is cultured using EpiGrowth culture medium (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) and cultured for 24 hours under the test conditions of the T zone and the U zone respectively;

[0142] (2) The blank control group replaces the untreated EpiGrowth culture medium, and the sample group replaces the EpiGrowth culture medium containing 0.1% g / mL of the corresponding sample (the oil-control composition prepared in the examples and comparative examples), and cultures for 24 hours;

[0143] (3) Skin water content detection: Use a skin moisture test probe Corneometer to measure the skin moisture content of the 3D epidermal model.

[0144] The skin moisturizing ability of the composition is expressed by the skin moisture content increase rate. The calculation formula is as follows:

[0145] Skin moisture content increase rate = (Skin moisture content 样品组 / Skin moisture content 空白对照组 - 1) * 100%;

[0146] The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0147] Table 3

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] As can be seen from Table 3, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained oil-control composition has good moisturizing and oil-control effects, and can achieve intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing; specifically, on the one hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone is above 61.3%, and the growth rate of skin moisture content in the U zone is above 55.6%, that is, the composition has good moisturizing and oil-control effects; on the other hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the U zone is below 41.5%, that is, the ratio of the inhibition rate of the composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone / U zone is above 1.6, and there are differences in the promotion and inhibition effects of the obtained composition on the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the T zone and the U zone. The change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29 in the T zone is 59.3 - 122.5%, and the change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the U zone is (-60.1) - (-31.2)%, that is, the composition has an intelligent zonal oil control and moisturizing effect;

[0151] As can be seen from Examples 1 - 6, the mass parts of the components and the mass percentages of certain two components in the composition will also affect the performance of the product. When the mass parts of the components are further selected within the preferred range given by the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained product is better; specifically, on the one hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone is above 75.6%, and the growth rate of skin moisture content in the U zone is above 66.4%; on the other hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the U zone is below 31.1%, the ratio of the inhibition rate of the composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone / U zone is above 2.5, the change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the T zone is 88.5 - 122.5%, and the change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the U zone is (-44.8) - (-60.1)%; as can be seen from Examples 1 and Examples 7 - 12, the preparation method of the active ingredient derived from Phellinus officinalis will also affect the performance of the product;

[0152] It can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7 that when one of the components is not added, or when the amount of other components is supplemented while not adding it, the effects of the present invention cannot be achieved; it can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 8-13 that when replaced with other similar components, the corresponding effects of the present invention cannot be obtained.

[0153] Effect Example 2

[0154] The present invention's effect example explores the safety of the facial creams prepared from the application example, comparative application example, and blank application example, specifically by conducting tests using the human skin patch test:

[0155] Recruit 30 volunteers, 15 males and 15 females, aged 20-50 years old. Using the closed patch test method, place an equal amount (0.020 mL - 0.025 mL) of the test samples (the facial creams prepared from the application example, comparative application example, and blank application example) in a specific patch tester, and apply it to the volunteers' arms with a low-allergy tape. Gently press to make it evenly adhere to the skin and leave it for 24 h; the blank control group is distilled water. After 24 h, remove the patch tester, and observe the skin reaction at 0.5 h, 24 h, and 48 h and record the results. The adverse reaction grades of the skin are shown in Table 4 below;

[0156] Table 4

[0157]

[0158]

[0159] The results show that after the facial creams prepared from the application example, comparative application example, and blank application example are tested by the human patch test, they are all negative reactions, and they are safe and non-irritating to human skin.

[0160] Effect Example 3

[0161] The present invention's effect example explores the application effects of the facial creams prepared from the application example, comparative application example, and blank application example on humans, including the following steps:

[0162] According to the "Technical Specifications for Cosmetics Safety" (2015), 168 Asian adult testers aged 18 - 60 with mixed sensitive skin were selected for the test. They were randomly divided into 28 groups, with 6 people in each group. The volunteers used the sample (the cream prepared from Application Examples 1 - 14, Comparative Application Examples 1 - 13, and Blank Application Example) on the whole face once in the morning and once in the evening every day. Data were collected on the 0th day and the 7th day of use when the volunteers visited. After the volunteers arrived, they washed their faces with facial cleanser and sat quietly in an air-conditioned room at a temperature of 21 ± 1°C and a humidity of 50 ± 10% for 30 minutes. The researcher used a skin sebum test probe (Sebumeter SM 815) to collect sebum content data on the forehead (T-zone) and cheekbones (U-zone); used a skin moisture test probe Corneometer to measure the skin moisture content of the forehead and cheekbones; used a skin water loss test probe ( TM Hex) to measure the trans-epidermal water loss value TEWL of the forehead and cheekbones.

[0163] The oil control effect of the composition is represented by the improvement of the skin sebum content, the skin moisturizing effect is represented by the improvement of the skin moisture content, and the barrier repair ability is represented by the improvement of the TEWL value. The formulas are as follows:

[0164] Sebum content improvement rate = (T0 样品组 - T7 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 * 100%] - [(T0 空白应用例 - T7 空白应用例 ) / T0 空白应用例 * 100%];

[0165] Skin moisture content improvement rate = (T7 样品组 - T0 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 * 100%] - [(T7 空白应用例 - T0 空白应用例 ) / T0 空白应用例 * 100%];

[0166] TEWL value improvement rate = (T0 样品组 - T7 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 * 100%] - [(T0 空白应用例 - T7 空白应用例 )

[0167] / T0 空白应用例 * 100%]

[0168] The results obtained are shown in Table 5;

[0169] Table 5

[0170]

[0171]

[0172] As can be seen from Table 5, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained facial cream has good moisturizing and oil-control effects and can achieve intelligent zonal oil-control and moisturizing. Specifically, on the one hand, for the obtained facial cream, the improvement rate of skin oil content in the T-zone is between 30.8 - 42.7%, the improvement rate of skin moisture content in the U-zone is between 44.3 - 57.4%, and the improvement rates of TEWL value in the T-zone and U-zone are between 17.3 - 24.3% and 23.9 - 29.0% respectively. On the other hand, for the obtained facial cream, the improvement rate of skin oil content in the U-zone is between 0.4 - 5.7%, and the improvement rate of skin moisture content in the T-zone is between 5.9 - 10.9%.

[0173] As can be seen from Application Examples 1 - 6, the mass parts of the components in the composition and the mass percentages of certain two components in the composition will also affect the performance of the facial cream. When the mass parts of the components are further selected within the preferred range given by the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained facial cream is better. Specifically, on the one hand, for the obtained facial cream, the improvement rate of skin oil content in the T-zone is between 37.1 - 42.7%, the improvement rate of skin moisture content in the U-zone is between 50.9 - 57.4%, and the improvement rates of TEWL value in the T-zone and U-zone are between 20.6 - 24.3% and 25.3 - 29.0% respectively. On the other hand, for the obtained facial cream, the improvement rate of skin oil content in the U-zone is between 0.4 - 4.4%, and the improvement rate of skin moisture content in the T-zone is between 5.9 - 7.8%. As can be seen from Application Example 1 and Application Examples 7 - 12, the preparation method of the active ingredient derived from Phellinus linteus in the composition will also affect the performance of the facial cream.

[0174] As can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1 - 7, when one of the components is not added to the composition, or when other component parts are supplemented while not adding it, the effects of the present invention cannot be achieved. As can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 8 - 13, when replaced with other similar components, the corresponding effects of the present invention cannot be obtained either.

[0175] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit the protection scope of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those of ordinary skill in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention can be modified or equivalently replaced without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. An oil-control composition, characterized in that, The oil-control composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: Active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis 0.5 - 10 parts, niacinamide 0.5 - 10 parts, panthenol 0.01 - 5 parts, N-acetylglucosamine 0.1 - 10 parts, glucosylglycerol 0.01 - 5 parts; The active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis include at least one of Phellinus officinalis extract and the two-way fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum.

2. The oil-control composition according to claim 1, wherein The oil-control composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: Active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis 1 - 8 parts, niacinamide 1 - 8 parts, panthenol 0.1 - 1 part, N-acetylglucosamine 1 - 5 parts, glucosylglycerol 0.1 - 1 part.

3. The oil-control composition according to claim 1, wherein The oil-control composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: Active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis 3 - 5 parts, niacinamide 3 - 5 parts, panthenol 0.3 - 0.5 part, N-acetylglucosamine 2 - 3 parts, glucosylglycerol 0.3 - 0.5 part.

4. The oil-control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, Based on the total mass of the oil-control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredients derived from Phellinus officinalis and panthenol is 38 - 40%.

5. The oil-control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The preparation method of the two-way fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum comprises the following steps: (1) Mix the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid and Phellinus officinalis in a mass ratio of (0.5 - 3):1 and perform anaerobic fermentation to obtain a fermentation product; (2) Cool the fermentation product to 2 - 6 °C and perform cyclic treatment in a microfluidic homogenizer, and finally perform fragmentation and centrifugation, collect the supernatant and dry it to obtain the two-way fermentation product of Phellinus officinalis-Lactobacillus plantarum.

6. The oil-control composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, In the step (1), the temperature of the anaerobic fermentation is 37 ± 2 °C, and the time of the anaerobic fermentation is 48 - 72 h; And / or, in the step (1), based on the total volume of Phellinus officinalis and the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid, 1 - 3% g / mL of glucose and 0.03 - 0.07% g / mL of magnesium sulfate are also added for anaerobic fermentation.

7. The oil-control composition according to claim 5, wherein In the step (2), the pressure of the cyclic treatment is 1000 - 1500 bar, the temperature of the cyclic treatment is < 40 °C, and the number of times of the cyclic treatment is 3 - 5 times.

8. The oil control composition according to claim 1, wherein The preparation method of the Phellinus officinalis extract comprises the following steps: Take the dried and pulverized Phellinus officinalis and add it to a deep eutectic solvent for ultrasonic extraction. After the extraction is completed, let it stand and centrifuge, collect the supernatant and concentrate and dry it to obtain the Phellinus officinalis extract; The deep eutectic solvent comprises betaine and glucosylglycerol.

9. Use of the oil-control composition according to any one of claims 1 - 8 in the preparation of skin care products.

10. A facial cream, characterized in that, The cream comprises the following components in mass percentages: 1 - 10% of the oil-control composition according to any one of claims 1 - 8, 0.1 - 1% of a thickener, 0.5 - 5% of a moisturizer, 8 - 15% of an emulsifier, 0.01 - 0.3% of a pH regulator, 0.5 - 3% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

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