Hair reformation composition comprising malic acid and betaine

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibres, comprising as components (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent, (B) at least one alkalizing agent, (C) malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid, (D) at least one betaine, and optionally (E) at least one disulfide-based compound. Furthermore, the invention relates to a kit for permanently reforming keratin fibres, comprising a composition (CR) for permanently reforming keratin fibres and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. Another aspect of the invention is a method for permanently reforming keratin fibres.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, which comprises the following as components: (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent, (B) at least one basifying agent, (C) malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid, (D) at least one betaine, and optionally (E) at least one disulfide-based compound. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a kit for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, which comprises a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. Another aspect of the present invention lies in a method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

[0002] Keratin fibers, such as human hair, differ in their morphological structure from the root to the tip. This is especially due to environmental influences, such as the action of the sun or weathering factors, which may damage the keratin fibers. Other factors that can damage keratin fibers are, for example, chemical and mechanical treatments of the hair, such as combing, brushing, washing, or dyeing treatments. These external influences and morphological changes of keratin fibers result in increased hair static electricity, poor combability, a rough and unpleasant feel, reduced luster, and increased hair brittleness. In extreme cases, these may lead to hair breakage during or after hair treatment.

[0003] Another well-known method for hair treatment is the hair reshaping method, such as the permanent curling (perming, waving) of keratin fibers or the permanent straightening of keratin fibers.

[0004] Well-known and commonly used methods for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, such as hair, generally involve a reduction step in which a composition comprising at least one reducing agent is applied to the hair, and a subsequent oxidation step in which a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair. In particular, the reduction step is generally considered to damage the keratin fibers.

[0005] There is a need to provide a composition for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, such as hair, which has a protective effect, especially during the reduction step. The composition for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers should preferably reduce the degree of hair degradation during the reduction step.

[0006] This object is solved by a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, which composition comprises the following as components:

[0007] (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent,

[0008] (B) at least one basifying agent,

[0009] (C) malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0010] (D) at least one betaine, and

[0011] (E) optionally at least one disulfide-based compound.

[0012] Thus, another aspect of the present invention lies in a kit for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, said kit comprising a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers as described herein and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0013] Another aspect of the present invention lies in a method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, said method comprising the following steps:

[0014] i) applying a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers as described herein to the keratin fibers,

[0015] ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and

[0016] iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

[0017] In one embodiment, the composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers may optionally comprise one, two or more of the following components:

[0018] (F) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent,

[0019] (G) at least one surfactant, and

[0020] (H) at least one additional component.

[0021] Definitions

[0022] As used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. In the context of the present application, the term "may" means "is permitted" or "is able to" and is a synonym of the term "can". As used herein, the term "may" does not imply a possibility or a chance.

[0023] In the context of the present application, the term "and / or" means one or the other or both. For example, an aqueous solution of A and / or B means an aqueous solution of A alone, an aqueous solution of B alone, and an aqueous solution of a combination of A and B.

[0024] The term "about" is understood to mean ±10% of a recited single number, plural numbers, or numerical range. According to an embodiment, the term "about" is understood to mean ±2% of a recited single number, plural numbers, or numerical range.

[0025] As used herein, the term "optionally" means that the corresponding step or feature may or may not be present. It includes two possibilities.

[0026] The terms "parts by weight" (PBW) and "parts by volume" (PBV) are used in their ordinary meanings. When used in a mixing context, such as when used in the amounts of components expressed in PBW being mixed with components expressed in PBV, the terms PBW and PBV as used herein represent the amount of the component expressed in PBW (in grams) relative to the volume of the component expressed in PBV (in milliliters).

[0027] As used herein, the term "composition" denotes a mixture or blend comprising at least two components. A typical composition comprises at least one functional component (such as, for example, an active ingredient, such as malic acid and / or malate) and at least one solvent component (such as water or an alcohol). The composition may exist in any suitable physical form, including, for example, a liquid (with different viscosities), a gel, a foam, a cream, etc. Unless the context otherwise dictates, the term "composition" may denote a ready-to-use product.

[0028] "Ready-to-use scalp and hair treatment product" denotes a form in which the composition is actually applied to the human scalp or the skin area including facial hair.

[0029] The term "substantially free of" a particular component means that, based on the total weight of the entity (such as a composition), the amount of the corresponding component in the entity is less than 1.0% by weight. In particular, the term "substantially free of" means that the amount of the corresponding component in the entity is less than 0.5% by weight, such as less than 0.1% by weight, such as less than 0.01% by weight.

[0030] The term "free of" a particular component means an amount below the detection limit (assuming detectability is based on ppm (parts per million, by weight)). In particular, the term "free of" a particular component means that the amount of the corresponding component in the entity is below 50 ppm (by weight), such as less than 10 ppm (by weight), such as less than 5 ppm (by weight).

[0031] The term "consisting essentially of" means that there are no additional, unenumerated components present in an entity (such as a composition) in an amount exceeding 1.0% by weight based on the total weight of the entity. In particular, the term "consisting essentially of" means that there are no additional, unenumerated components present in the entity in an amount exceeding 0.5% by weight, such as exceeding 0.1% by weight, such as exceeding 0.01% by weight. It is understood that any additional, unenumerated components are compatible with the enumerated components and do not interfere with their function.

[0032] The term "consisting of" means that there are no additional, unenumerated components present in an entity (such as a composition) in an amount below the detection limit (assuming detectability is based on ppm (parts per million) by weight). In particular, the term "consisting of" means that there are no additional, unenumerated components present in the entity in an amount exceeding 50 ppm (by weight), such as exceeding 10 ppm (by weight), such as exceeding 10 ppm (by weight). It is understood that any additional, unenumerated components are compatible with the enumerated components and do not interfere with their function.

[0033] As used herein, the term "keratin fibers" generally refers to mammalian hair, but especially human hair. More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to human "head hair" or "scalp hair" and human "facial hair". The term "facial hair" encompasses beards, eyebrows, and eyelashes.

[0034] The terms "composition for permanent reshaping of keratin fibers (CR)" and "composition (CR)" are used synonymously herein and thus have the same meaning. Detailed Description

[0035] The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that the combination of malic acid and / or one or more malates (component (C)) with at least one betaine (component (D)) effectively protects keratin fibers in a method for permanent reshaping of keratin fibers. The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that malic acid and / or one or more malates (component (C)) and at least one betaine (component (D)) effectively protect keratin fibers in a synergistic manner in a method for permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

[0036] Component (A)

[0037] In the present application, the terms "(A)", "component (A)", and "at least one thiol-based reducing agent" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one thiol-based reducing agent" means exactly one thiol-based reducing agent, as well as a mixture of two or more different thiol-based reducing agents.

[0038] The thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) is capable of reducing the disulfide cysteine bonds in keratin fibers, particularly in the cortex of the hair shaft, which is located between the cuticle and the medulla and is the thickest hair layer. In a sense, the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) removes crosslinks.

[0039] In one embodiment, the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) is selected from the group consisting of: mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA-thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoyl cysteine, cysteine alkyl ester, homocysteine, mercaptoacetic acid, ethanolamine mercaptoacetate, glycerol mercaptoacetate, glutathione, thiodiglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] In another preferred embodiment, the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) is selected from the group consisting of mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, cysteine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred thiol-based reducing agents that can be used as component (A) are ammonium mercaptoacetate and cysteine, with ammonium mercaptoacetate being particularly preferred.

[0041] Ammonium mercaptoacetate is the ammonium salt of mercaptoacetic acid and has the CAS number 5421-46-5.

[0042] The amount of component (A) in the composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers (preferably human hair) used according to the present disclosure is not particularly critical. Typically, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (A) will be present in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight.

[0043] If the amount of component (A) is less than 4% by weight, the effects sought by the present disclosure may be difficult to achieve. An amount higher than 15% by weight may not further enhance the effect or may damage the keratin fibers (especially human hair), but result in a higher cost of the material resources for the composition (CR).

[0044] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (A) is present in an amount in the range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range from 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range from 3 to 13% by weight and most preferably in an amount in the range from 5 to 13.5% by weight.

[0045] Component (B)

[0046] In the present application, "(B)", "component (B)" and "at least one basifying agent" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. In the present application, the term "at least one basifying agent" means exactly one basifying agent, as well as a mixture of two or more different basifying agents.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, in the composition (CR), component (B) is at least one basifying agent selected from the group consisting of: 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia and monoethanolamine, where ammonia, 2-amino-1-propanol and monoethanolamine are particularly preferred.

[0048] In another preferred embodiment, component (B) is ammonia or monoethanolamine, where ammonia is particularly preferred.

[0049] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (B) is present in an amount in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range from 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range from 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably in an amount in the range from 0.25 to 2% by weight.

[0050] Component (C)

[0051] In the present application, the terms "(C)", "component (C)" and "malic acid and / or salts of malic acid" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning.

[0052] Malic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with the molecular formula C4H6O5. Malic acid has two stereoisomeric forms, namely the L- and D-enantiomers. Only the L-enantiomer occurs naturally. Racemic malic acid can be produced by the double hydration of maleic anhydride. Racemic malic acid comprises a mixture of the L- and D-isomers of malic acid.

[0053] Malic acid and / or one or more malates are one of the active ingredients used for protecting keratin fibers in a method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

[0054] As component (C), preferably racemic malic acid and / or a salt of racemic malic acid are used. Suitable salts of malic acid (preferably salts of racemic malic acid) are the sodium or ammonium salts of malic acid, preferably the sodium or ammonium salts of racemic malic acid.

[0055] In a particularly preferred embodiment, racemic malic acid is used as component (C). The CAS number of racemic malic acid is 6915-15-7.

[0056] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (C) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.3 to 3% by weight.

[0057] Component (D)

[0058] In the present application, the terms “(D)”, “component (D)” and “at least one betaine” are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. In the present application, the term “at least one betaine” means exactly one betaine, as well as a mixture of two or more different betaines.

[0059] At least one betaine is another active ingredient for protecting keratin fibers in a method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

[0060] In one embodiment of the present invention, the betaine (component (D)) may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines and mixtures thereof.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers comprises at least one betaine of formula (I) as component (D)

[0062] R f R g R h N + -CH2-C(=O)-O - (I)

[0063] wherein R f 、R g and R h are each the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C6 carboxyalkyl.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, R f 、Rg and R h are each the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C1 to C6 alkyl groups, more preferably selected from the group consisting of C1 to C4 alkyl groups, and particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of C1 to C2 alkyl groups.

[0065] In a particularly preferred embodiment, component (D) is trimethylglycine. Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative. It is the first betaine discovered. The IUPAC nomenclature of trimethylglycine is (trimethylammonium) acetate. The CAS number of trimethylglycine is 107-43-7.

[0066] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (D) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.3 to 3% by weight.

[0067] Component (E)

[0068] In the present application, the terms "(E)", "component (E)", and "at least one disulfide-based compound" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. In the present application, the term "at least one disulfide-based compound" means exactly one disulfide-based compound, as well as a mixture of two or more different disulfide-based compounds. In a preferred embodiment, if component (E) is present in the composition (CR), exactly one disulfide compound is used.

[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, the disulfide-based compound (component (E)) may be selected from the group consisting of dithiodiglycolic acid, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Non-limiting examples include dithiodiglycolic acid, diammonium dithiodiglycolate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, if present in the composition (CR), component (E) is diammonium dithiodiglycolate.

[0071] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (E) is present in an amount in the range of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 6% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 1 to 4% by weight.

[0072] Component (F)

[0073] In the present application, the terms "(F)", "component (F)", and "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" means exactly one cosmetically acceptable solvent, as well as a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents. Preferably, a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents is used as component (F).

[0074] The cosmetically acceptable solvents used in the composition (CR) are preferably water-based, alcohol-based, or water-alcohol-based. Typically, cosmetically acceptable solvents include water and one or more monohydric and / or polyhydric C1-C4 alcohols. According to an embodiment, the solvent includes water and an alcohol selected from ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, or combinations thereof.

[0075] In one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (F) is present in an amount in the range of 30 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in the range of 45 to 96.949% by weight, particularly preferably in the range of 54 to 94.29% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 65.5 to 91.55% by weight.

[0076] In the case where the composition (CR) contains at least one disulfide-based component (component (E)), in one embodiment, in each case, based on the total weight of the composition (CR), component (F) is present in an amount in the range of 20 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in the range of 37 to 96.849% by weight, particularly preferably in the range of 48 to 93.79% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 61.5 to 90.55% by weight.

[0077] In a preferred embodiment, based on the total weight of component (F) contained in the composition (CR), component (F) contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and particularly preferably at least 65% by weight of water.

[0078] Component (G)

[0079] In the present application, the terms "(G)", "component (G)", and "at least one surfactant" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one surfactant" means exactly one surfactant, as well as a mixture of two or more different surfactants. Preferably, a mixture of two or more different surfactants is used as component (G).

[0080] Suitable surfactants as component (G) include anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants.

[0081] Anionic surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of salts of the following compounds (such as basic salts, for example, sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, and magnesium salts): fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamido sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamido sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates; N-acyl taurates; and mixtures thereof. The alkyl or acyl groups of all these various compounds contain, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl groups are selected, for example, from phenyl and benzyl. Weak anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acid and its salts, as well as polyoxyethylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyethylenated (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyethylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts (for example, those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and mixtures thereof. Anionic derivatives of polysaccharides can also be used, such as carboxyalkyl ethers of alkyl polyglucosides.

[0082] One or more suitable anionic surfactants (component (G)) can contain at least one anionic functional group selected from carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate, and multiple carboxylates in their head groups.

[0083] Suitable alkyl sulfates include ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SLS or SDS), and alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfate or SLES) and sodium myreth sulfate. Additional suitable anionic surfactants can include docusate (sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate), alkylaryl ether phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and sodium lauryl sulfacetate.

[0084] Preferred anionic surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of: sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium laureth ether sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, ammonium laureth ether sulfate, ammonium dodecyl sulfate, alkyl benzene sulfonate, and combinations thereof.

[0085] In a preferred embodiment, component (G) is at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, and polyquaternium-47, and additional quaternary ammonium compounds.

[0086] In a more preferred embodiment, component (G) is at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-11.

[0087] Suitable additional quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably those selected from cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methyl sulfate, behenyl trimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The surfactant (component (G)) can be a nonionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of lanolin alcohol, polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant can preferably be ceteareth-n, where n is from 2 to 100 or from 10 to 30. Suitable nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Preferred surfactants encompass nonionic surfactants, especially polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols or oils. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylated castor oil and hydrogenated polyoxylated castor oil. Specific examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present disclosure are PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and combinations thereof.

[0089] In a more preferred embodiment, component (G) is at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of steareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, polyquaternium-6, and polyquaternium-11.

[0090] Component (G) is preferably present in an amount of from 0 to 15% by weight, more preferably in an amount of from 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of from 2 to 11% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of from 2.5 to 10, where the % by weight values are based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0091] Component (H)

[0092] In the present application, the terms "(H)", "component (H)", and "at least one additional component" are used synonymously and thus preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one additional component" means exactly one additional component, as well as a mixture of two or more different additional components. Preferably, a mixture of two, three, or more different additional components is used as component (H).

[0093] The composition (CR) can optionally contain additional components that enhance, supplement, or increase the benefits obtained from components (C) and (D). Such additional optional components will hereinafter be referred to as supportive components and cosmetically acceptable additives.

[0094] According to an embodiment, the composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may further comprise supportive components. Examples of such supportive components particularly include vasodilators, blood circulation stimulants, antioxidants, vitamins, provitamins. Based on the weight of the composition (CR), component (H) may be present in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight. If present, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the amount of the supportive component or a combination thereof will be in the range of 0.0010 to 5.0, particularly 0.010 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight.

[0095] The supportive component may include, for example, one or more of tocopherols, tocotrienols, tocopherol esters, niacin, nicotinamide, niacin esters, vasodilatory plant extracts, camphor, royal jelly, biotin, vitamin B3, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, vitamin E, vitamin K1, vitamin K2, panthenol (provitamin B5), omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, folic acid (folate), amino acids, or a combination thereof.

[0096] According to an embodiment, the supportive component includes a vasodilator selected from: tocopherols (α-, β-, γ-, or δ-tocopherols) (particularly α-tocopherol), tocopherol esters (including, for example, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl poly(ethylene oxide)-succinate), niacin, nicotinamide, niacin esters, camphor; antioxidants such as vitamin C or one or more polyphenols; inhibitors of testosterone-5-α-reductase such as the omega-6 fatty acid arachidonic acid; substances that provide benefits for hair health such as nicotinamide (); or a combination thereof. According to an embodiment, the supportive component includes tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) and / or nicotinamide. Suitable vasodilatory plant extracts include burned or distilled nettle extract (Urtica Diocia), roasted chestnut extract (Aesculus Hippocastanum), arnica extract (Arnica Montana).

[0097] The composition (CR) may optionally comprise cosmetically acceptable additives, which may contribute to achieving or enhancing the desired properties or effects. According to an embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable additives may be selected from fragrances / aromatics, sunscreens, preservatives, pH regulators, chelating agents, hair care materials or skin care materials, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, photoprotective agents, anti-exfoliants, hair gloss agents, combability improvers, degreasing agents, moisturizers, conditioners, viscosity regulators, coolants. The cosmetically acceptable additives may be used in any combination as needed or required.

[0098] Suitable cosmetically acceptable additives not specifically described below are listed in the International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (8th Edition; The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). In particular, Sections 3 (Chemical Classes) and 4 (Functions) of Volume 2 can be used to identify specific additives for specific purposes or multiple purposes. Some of these additives are discussed below, and the disclosure is of course non-exhaustive.

[0099] The suitable amount ranges of fragrances, sunscreens, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, hair care materials or skin care materials, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, photoprotective agents, anti-exfoliants, hair gloss imparting agents, combability improvers, degreasing agents, moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, viscosity regulators, and coolants are indicated below for the additives discussed. Based on the weight of the composition (CR), these cosmetically acceptable additives can be present in a total amount of up to 20.0, particularly up to 15.0 wt%. Typically, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives can be in the range of 0.010 to 10.0 wt%, conveniently in the range of 0.010 to 7.0 wt%. For example, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives can be in the range of 0.010 to 5.0 wt%, conveniently in the range of 0.010 to 3.0 wt%.

[0100] The composition (CR) used according to the present disclosure can include a fragrance / aromatic. For example, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the composition (CR) can include 0.0010 to 1.50, particularly 0.010 to 0.50 wt% of the fragrance / aromatic. The fragrance / aromatic can provide an enhanced user experience by making the composition (CR) smell pleasant and / or evoke emotions (such as a relaxing or exciting smell).

[0101] Alternatively, the composition (CR) used according to the present disclosure can be substantially free of fragrances and / or aromatics. Some consumers prefer fragrance-free compositions. The fragrance / aromatic can be an animal fragrance or a plant fragrance. The animal fragrance can be selected from the group consisting of musk oil, civet, castoreum, ambergris, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] The plant fragrance can be selected from the group consisting of: nutmeg extract, cardomon extract, ginger extract, cinnamon extract, patchouli oil, geranium oil, orange oil, citrus oil, neroli extract, cedarwood, vetiver, lavandin, ylang-ylang extract, tuberose extract, sandalwood oil, bergamot oil, rosemary oil, spearmint oil, peppermint oil, lemon oil, lavender oil, citronella oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, sage oil, neroli oil, labdanum oil, eucalyptus oil, verbena oil, mimosa extract, narcissus extract, carrot seed extract, jasmine extract, olibanum extract, rose extract and mixtures thereof.

[0103] The perfume may contain one or more scents selected from the group consisting of: acetophenone, adoxal, aldehyde C-12, aldehyde C-14, aldehyde C-18, allyl octanoate, ambroxan, amyl acetate, dimethyl indane derivatives, α-amyl cinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol and ester derivatives, benzyl propionate, benzyl salicylate, borneol, butyl acetate, camphor, carbitol, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl acetate, cinnamyl alcohol, cis-3-hexanol and ester derivatives, cis-3-hexenyl methyl carbonate, citral, citronnellol and ester derivatives, cumin aldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, cyclo galbanate, damascone, decalactone, decanol, estragole, dihydro myrcenol, dimethyl benzyl carbinol, 6,8-dimethyl-2-nonanol, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, ethyl acetate, ethyl isobutyrate, ethyl butyrate, ethyl propionate, ethyl caprylate, ethyl cinnamate, ethyl caproate, ethyl valerate, ethyl vanillin, eugenol, exaltolide, fenchone, fruity esters such as ethyl 2-methylbutyrate, galaxolide, geraniol and ester derivatives, helional, 2-heptonone, hexenol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, indole, isoamyl acetate, isoeugenol acetate, ionone, isoeugenol, isopentyl isovalerate, iso E super, limonene, linalool, lilial, linalyl acetate, lyral, majantol, mayol, melonal, menthol, p-methylacetophenone, methyl anthranilate, methyl cedrylone, methyl dihydrojasmonate, methyl eugenol, methyl ionone, methyl-α-naphthyl ketone, methyl phenyl carbinyl acetate, mugetanol, γ-nonalactone, octanal, phenethyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylethyl alcohol, pinene, sandalore, santalol, stemone, thymol, terpenes, triplal, triethyl citrate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol, γ-undecalactone, undecenal, vanillin, veloutone, verdox and mixtures thereof.,

[0104] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may comprise an opacifying agent, which is sometimes also denoted by the term "turbidity inducer". For example, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the composition may comprise from 0.10 to 5.0, particularly from 0.50 to 2.0% by weight of an opacifying agent. Suitable opacifying agents include mineral pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, alumina, calcium carbonate. Other suitable opacifying agents include fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters such as, for example, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, ethylene glycol distearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, stearyl stearate.

[0105] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may comprise a preservative or a mixture of preservatives. Based on the weight of the composition (CR), the composition (CR) may comprise up to 1.0, for example from 0.0010 to 1.0, particularly from 0.010 to 0.50% by weight of one or more preservatives. Cosmetically acceptable preservatives include organic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid; organic acid salts such as sodium benzoate; compounds such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2,4-dione; octanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may comprise a pH regulator and / or a buffer in an amount sufficient to effectively adjust the pH of the composition. For example, based on the weight of the composition (CR), the composition may comprise up to 1.0, for example from 0.000010 to 1.0, particularly from 0.0010 to 0.50% by weight of a pH regulator. pH regulators and / or buffers suitable for use herein include, but are not limited to: guanidium salts, hydroxides and carbonates of alkali metals and ammonium such as sodium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium chloride, and acids such as organic acids and inorganic acids, for example ascorbic acid, citric acid, acetic acid or tartaric acid, phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may also comprise one or more chelating agents (also referred to as “chelating agent” or “sequestering agent”), in an amount sufficient to reduce the amount of metal available for interaction with the formulation components. Chelating agents are well known in the art, and a non-exhaustive list thereof can be found in AE Martell & RM Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Volume 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996). Typically, the composition may comprise one or more chelating agents, the total amount of which is from 0.0010 to 1.0% by weight, particularly 0.010 to 0.50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (CR).

[0108] The one or more chelating agents may be selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acids (such as aminocarboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (such as aminophosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids (such as linear polyphosphoric acids), their salts, and mixtures thereof. In the context of chelating agents, “their salts” means all salts that contain the same functional structure as the chelating agent they refer to, and include alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; alternatively sodium salts, potassium salts, calcium salts, magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; alternatively monoethanolammonium salts, diethanolammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] One or more chelating agents may be one or more aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents comprising one or more carboxylic acid moieties (-COOH) and one or more nitrogen atoms. Suitable chelating agents may be selected from the group consisting of: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-dipentanedioic acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycineamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-dipentanedioic acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenedicysteine (EDC), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(orthohydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), diaminoalkyldi(sulfosuccinic acid) (DDS), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), etidronic acid, diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Conveniently, the chelating agent (if any) for the composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may be EDTA, etidronic acid, diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP) and / or their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0111] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may comprise a viscosity regulator (also referred to in the art as a "thickener"). If present, such a viscosity regulator will typically be used in the composition (CR) in an amount of from 0.010 to 3.0, particularly from 0.50 to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (CR). Suitable cosmetically acceptable viscosity regulators include nonionic polymers such as polysaccharides, such as cellulose, cellulose gum or xanthan gum, and nonionic viscosity regulators based on polyether-1, such as the commercially available viscosity regulator Pure Thix 1442.

[0112] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may further comprise care materials, such as plant or vegetable extracts that provide hair care or skin care. Based on the weight of the composition (CR), the typical amount of care material in the composition according to the present disclosure will be in the range of from 0.010 to 5.0, particularly from 0.050 to 2.0% by weight.

[0113] Composition (CR) for the permanent reforming of keratin fibres

[0114] The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers comprises the following as components:

[0115] (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent,

[0116] (B) at least one basifying agent,

[0117] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0118] (D) At least one betaine, and

[0119] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide-based compound.

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises the following as components:

[0121] (A) At least one thiol-based reducing agent, which comprises ammonium thioglycolate and / or cysteine,

[0122] (B) At least one alkalizing agent, which comprises ammonia and / or monoethanolamine,

[0123] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0124] (D) At least one betaine, which comprises trimethylglycine, and

[0125] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide-based compound, which comprises diammonium dithiodiglycolate.

[0126] In another preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises the following as components:

[0127] (A) At least one thiol-based reducing agent, which contains at least 80% by weight of at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine (based on the total weight of component (A) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0128] (B) At least one alkalizing agent, which contains at least 80% by weight of at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine (based on the total weight of component (B) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0129] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0130] (D) At least one betaine, which contains 80% by weight of trimethylglycine (based on the total weight of component (D) contained in the composition (CR)), and

[0131] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide-based compound, which contains at least 80% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate (based on the total weight of component (E) contained in the composition (CR)).

[0132] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises the following as components:

[0133] (A) At least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising at least 90% by weight of at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine (based on the total weight of component (A) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0134] (B) At least one basifying agent comprising at least 90% by weight of at least one basifying agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine (based on the total weight of component (B) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0135] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0136] (D) At least one betaine comprising 90% by weight of trimethylglycine (based on the total weight of component (D) contained in the composition (CR)), and

[0137] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide-based compound comprising at least 90% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate (based on the total weight of component (D) contained in the composition (CR)).

[0138] In another more preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises the following as components:

[0139] (A) At least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising at least 95% by weight of at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine (based on the total weight of component (A) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0140] (B) At least one basifying agent comprising at least 95% by weight of at least one basifying agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine (based on the total weight of component (B) contained in the composition (CR)),

[0141] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0142] (D) At least one betaine comprising 95% by weight of trimethylglycine (based on the total weight of component (D) contained in the composition (CR)), and

[0143] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide-based compound comprising at least 95% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate (based on the total weight of component (D) contained in the composition (CR)).

[0144] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises the following as components:

[0145] (A) Ammonium thioglycolate and / or cysteine,

[0146] (B) Ammonia and / or monoethanolamine,

[0147] (C) malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0148] (D) trimethylglycine, and

[0149] (E) optionally diammonium dithiodiglycolate.

[0150] In one embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises:

[0151] component (A) in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 13% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 5 to 13.5% by weight,

[0152] component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 2% by weight,

[0153] component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight,

[0154] component (D) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight,

[0155] component (F) in an amount of 30 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount of 45 to 96.949% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 54 to 94.29% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 65.5 to 91.55% by weight,

[0156] component (G) in an amount of 0 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 2 to 11% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 2.5 to 10% by weight, and

[0157] component (H) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight,

[0158] wherein the % by weight values are based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0159] In another embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises:

[0160] Component (A) in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 13% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 5 to 13.5% by weight,

[0161] Component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 2% by weight,

[0162] Component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight,

[0163] Component (D) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight,

[0164] Component (E) in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 6% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight,

[0165] Component (F) in an amount of 20 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount of 37 to 96.849% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 48 to 93.79% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 61.5 to 90.55% by weight,

[0166] Component (G) in an amount of 0 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 2 to 11% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 2.5 to 10% by weight, and

[0167] Component (H) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight,

[0168] wherein the % by weight values are based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0169] The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibres can be used for permanently curling keratin fibres or for permanently straightening keratin fibres.

[0170] Accordingly, another aspect of the invention is the use of the composition (CR) for permanently curling keratin fibres.

[0171] Another aspect of the invention is the use of the composition (CR) for permanently straightening keratin fibres.

[0172] The pH value of the composition (CR) is preferably in the range of 7.5 to 10.0, more preferably in the range of 7.8 to 9.8, and even more preferably in the range of 7.9 to 9.6.

[0173] Another aspect of the present invention is a kit for the permanent re - formation of keratin fibers, which comprises a composition (CR) as described herein and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0174] For the composition (CR) comprised in the kit, the above description and preferences apply accordingly.

[0175] The neutralizing composition (CN) comprises at least one oxidizing agent. The neutralizing composition is capable of cross - linking again the broken cysteine bonds, which are removed by applying the composition (CR) (i.e., the thiol - based reducing agent (component (A)) comprised therein).

[0176] Suitable neutralizing compositions and oxidizing agents are known to those skilled in the art. Typically, the neutralizing composition (CN) comprises hydrogen peroxide and / or a bromate compound as the oxidizing agent.

[0177] Suitable bromate compounds are for example selected from ammonium bromate and / or an alkali (alkali metal) bromate, such as sodium bromate.

[0178] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for the permanent re - formation of keratin fibers, the method comprising the following steps:

[0179] i) applying a composition (CR) for the permanent re - formation of keratin fibers as described herein to the keratin fibers,

[0180] ii) re - forming the keratin fibers, and

[0181] iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

[0182] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for permanently curling keratin fibers (preferably human hair), the method comprising the following steps:

[0183] w1) washing the keratin fibers (preferably human hair),

[0184] w2) rolling the keratin fibers (preferably human hair) in the wet state onto a roller,

[0185] w3) applying the composition (CR) as described herein to the keratin fibers (preferably human hair) in the roller for a period in the range of 5 to 25 minutes,

[0186] w4) Rinse the composition (CR) off the wound keratin fibers, preferably off the wound human hair,

[0187] w5) Optionally, padding dry the wound keratin fibers (preferably wound human hair),

[0188] w6) Apply the neutralizing composition (CN) as described herein to the wound keratin fibers in the hair curler, preferably to the wound human hair in the hair curler,

[0189] w7) Remove the keratin fibers (preferably human hair) from the hair curler,

[0190] w8) Optionally, apply another portion of the neutralizing composition (CN) to the keratin fibers, preferably to the human hair,

[0191] w9) Rinse the keratin fibers (preferably human hair),

[0192] w10) Optionally, apply a conditioner to the keratin fibers, preferably to the human hair, and

[0193] w11) Optionally, blow dry the keratin fibers (preferably human hair).

[0194] Step w3) can be carried out with or without heating. Preferably, step w3) is carried out with heating in a climate zone, where a temperature in the range of 25 °C to 45 °C is applied to the keratin fibers, preferably to the human hair. A heated hair curler (curler) heated to a temperature in the range of 70 to 180 °C, more preferably in the range of 70 to 170 °C and even more preferably in the range of 75 to 140 °C can also be used.

[0195] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for permanently straightening keratin fibers (preferably human hair), the method comprising the following steps:

[0196] s1) Apply the composition (CR) as described herein to the keratin fibers (preferably human hair) in a roller for a period of time in the range of 3 to 30 minutes,

[0197] s2) Rinse the composition (CR) off the keratin fibers, preferably off the human hair,

[0198] s3) Blow dry the keratin fibers (preferably from human hair),

[0199] s4) Straighten the keratin fibers (preferably human hair) by:

[0200] i) Use a flat iron on keratin fibers, preferably on human hair, or

[0201] ii) Comb the keratin fibers (preferably human hair),

[0202] s5) Apply the neutralizing composition (CN) as described herein to the keratin fibers, preferably to human hair,

[0203] s6) Rinse the keratin fibers (preferably human hair),

[0204] s7) Optionally apply a conditioner to the keratin fibers, preferably to human hair, and

[0205] s8) Optionally dry the keratin fibers (preferably human hair).

[0206] Embodiment

[0207] 1. A composition (CR) for the permanent re - shaping of keratin fibers, which comprises the following as components:

[0208] (A) At least one thiol - based reducing agent,

[0209] (B) At least one alkalizing agent,

[0210] (C) Malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid,

[0211] (D) At least one betaine, and

[0212] (E) Optionally at least one disulfide - based compound.

[0213] 2. The composition (CR) for the permanent re - shaping of keratin fibers according to embodiment 1, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol - based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of: mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, thiolactic acid, monoglyceride thiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA - thiolactate, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid glycerol ester, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid ethylene glycol ester, cysteamine, N - acetylcysteamine, N - propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N - acetylcysteine, N - alkanoyl cysteine, alkyl esters of cysteine, homocysteine, mercaptoacetic acid, ethanolamine mercaptoacetate, glycerol mercaptoacetate, glutathione, thiodiglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2 - mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0214] 3. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] 4. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein component (B) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia, and monoethanolamine.

[0216] 5. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent as component (F).

[0217] 6. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein component (D) is at least one betaine selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, and alkylsulfobetaines.

[0218] 7. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein component (D) is at least one betaine of formula (I)

[0219] R f R g R h N + -CH2-C(=O)-O -

[0220] wherein R f 、R g and R h are each the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, and C1-C6 carboxyalkyl.

[0221] 8. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein component (D) is trimethylglycine.

[0222] 9. The composition (CR) for the permanent reformation of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the pH value of the composition (CR) is in the range of 7.5 to 10.0.

[0223] 10. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the composition (CR) comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (C), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0224] 11. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 10, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (D), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0225] 12. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 11, wherein the composition comprises from 1 to 15% by weight of component (A), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0226] 13. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 5% by weight of component (B), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0227] 14. A kit for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, the kit comprising a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 13, and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0228] 15. A method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, the method comprising the steps of:

[0229] i) applying a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 13 to the keratin fibers,

[0230] ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and

[0231] iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

[0232] Example

[0233] The following examples illustrate the composition (CR) and the performance results of the composition. These examples are not intended to cover all aspects of the subject matter disclosed herein, but are intended to illustrate representative compositions (CR) and results. These examples are not intended to exclude equivalents and variations of the invention that are obvious to those skilled in the art.

[0234] In order to evaluate the protective effect of malic acid and betaine in the composition (CR) of the present invention on the permanent reforming of keratin fibers, preparations that differ only in their malic acid and betaine content were applied to tresses of hair.

[0235] Natural bleached Caucasian hair (supplier Kerling) was used.

[0236] The compositions are shown in Table 1 below. Composition CR1 is the composition according to the present invention. Compositions C2 to C4 are comparative examples. Composition C2 contains only malic acid. Composition C3 contains only betaine. Composition C4 contains neither malic acid nor betaine.

[0237]

[0238]

[0239] The degree of hair degradation was captured by taking direct photographs after application (initial) and after 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 minutes. The photographs were compared with each other ( Figure 1 ).

[0240] Figure 1 The results of water used as a reference are shown in the first row of the table. In Figure 1 the second to fourth rows of the table, the results of composition CR1 and C2, C3, and C4 are depicted.

[0241] According to Figure 1 , the performance of the test compositions can be ranked from best to worst in the following order:

[0242] 1. Composition CR1 according to the present invention shows the best results. There is little damage, as the photographs of the tresses of hair look similar to those of tresses to which only water was applied.

[0243] 2. Composition C2 (only malic acid) shows little damage, but composition C2 performs worse than composition CR1 of the present invention.

[0244] 3. Composition C4 (no malic acid / no betaine) shows damage, but composition C4 performs worse than composition C2.

[0245] 4. Composition C3 (only betaine) shows severe damage and performs significantly worse than composition C4.

[0246] Since composition C3 (only betaine) performs worse than composition C4 (no malic acid / no betaine), and at the same time composition CR1 (malic acid and betaine) according to the present invention performs better than composition C2 (only malic acid), a synergistic effect of malic acid and betaine is shown, rather than just an additive effect.

Claims

1. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, said composition (CR) comprising the following as components: (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent, (B) at least one alkalizing agent, (C) malic acid and / or a salt of malic acid, (D) at least one betaine, and (E) optionally at least one disulfide-based compound.

2. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of: mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, thiolactic acid, monoglyceryl thiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA-thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoyl cysteine, alkyl esters of cysteine, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glycerol thioglycolate, glutathione, thiodiglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of: mercaptoacetic acid, ammonium mercaptoacetate, cysteine and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein component (B) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of: 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia and monoethanolamine.

5. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent as component (F).

6. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein component (D) is at least one betaine selected from the group consisting of: alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines and alkylsulfobetaines.

7. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein component (D) is at least one betaine of formula (I) R f R g R h N + -CH2-C(=O)-O - wherein R f , R g and R h are each the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, and C1-C6 carboxyalkyl.

8. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein component (D) is trimethylglycine.

9. The composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the pH value of the composition (CR) is in the range of 7.5 to 10.

0.

10. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition (CR) comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (C), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

11. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (D), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

12. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition comprises from 1 to 15% by weight of component (A), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

13. A composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 5% by weight of component (B), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

14. A kit for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, the kit comprising a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 13, and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

15. A method for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, the method comprising the following steps: i) applying a composition (CR) for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin fibers, ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

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