Gloss non-transferring composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose, (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols and volatile hydrocarbon oils, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and in particular to a non-transferring anhydrous composition for providing a lustrous finish for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips. Background Art

[0002] Compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials are known from the prior art, which have a high gloss and a long-lasting property, but have poor transfer resistance against pressure or friction, i.e., they tend to deposit on the support (skin, clothing, etc.) with which they come into contact (these products are said to be transferable by touch or friction). In the lipstick sector in particular, there is a demand for ultra-glossy products with very long-lasting or even non-transferring properties ("vinyl" look).

[0003] However, to the best of the applicant's knowledge, there is currently no product on the market that provides very long-lasting hold, has non-transfer properties and is easily removable.

[0004] Lip gloss products are characterized by providing a very glossy film or "vinyl" film on the lips, but their disadvantages are that the deposited film has low hiding power, the color is not very intense, the retention over time is often limited, migration in fine lines is noticeable, and there is significant transfer. On the other hand, stick products have the characteristics of providing intense color, having long-lasting retention but not being non-transferring, and the glossiness is less noticeable than lip gloss; sticks that are considered long-lasting but not "non-transferring" generally have a satin-like film (not a glossy film), while "non-transferring" sticks are matte, less comfortable, and even drying.

[0005] Some products claim to have a long-lasting gloss, but they often have a sticky feel, can cause some stringiness when pressed and / or rubbed, transfer, and are sometimes difficult to remove.

[0006] There are other proposals for obtaining a glossy, non-transferring deposit, but they are usually in the form of a product that is applied in two steps (the products are called "two-step" products): a first colored layer that comes into contact with the lips, which is long-lasting and non-transferring, but has no gloss; and a second, ultra-glossy, transparent layer ("topcoat") applied over the first layer, which provides gloss and is non-sticky and can be transferred without leaving any traces of color.

[0007] Likewise, for the eyes, there are no non-transferring and non-sticky glossy eyeshadows, nor are there non-transferring glossy eyeliners or mascaras.

[0008] Therefore, what is sought are new one-step compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials (including the skin, lips, eyelashes) having very good gloss properties and improved non-transfer properties. Advantageously, moreover, caring for and / or making-up compositions are sought that do not contain silicone compounds (compositions referred to as "silicone-free" compositions) having very good gloss properties and improved non-transfer properties.

[0009] The applicants tested various film-forming polymers, selecting the best candidates by taking into account their film drying speed and their compatibility with non-aqueous polar volatile solvents. Consequently, the applicants determined that a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one polyurethane-type polymer and one alkylcellulose-type polymer, used in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one non-aqueous volatile polar solvent and optionally one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, allows for obtaining ultra-glossy films with very long-lasting and non-transferring properties.

[0010] The compositions of the present invention have excellent gloss properties and non-transferring effects (even at high levels of non-volatile oils), which are unprecedented for this type of gloss composition. The compositions of the present invention also allow for easy removal. Summary of the Invention

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0012] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

[0013] (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and

[0014] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols and volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0015] Another object relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0016] "Cosmetic composition" means any composition used for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which can come into contact with superficial parts of the human body, more particularly with keratin materials, especially human skin and / or lips.

[0017] "Physiologically acceptable medium" means any excipient suitable for topical use which can come into contact with keratin materials without risk of toxic side effects, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic reactions.

[0018] "Keratin material" according to the invention is understood to mean the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0019] "Anhydrous" means in particular that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even completely free of water. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] A first object therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0021] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

[0022] (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and

[0023] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols and volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0024] Alkyl cellulose

[0025] Therefore, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkylcellulose.

[0026] Among the alkylcelluloses, mention may be made of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and mixtures thereof, preferably ethylcellulose.

[0027] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0028] The remainder of the specification will refer interchangeably to "ethylcellulose film-forming polymer," "ethylcellulose polymer," or "ethylcellulose."

[0029] “Film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous, adherent film on a support, in particular on the skin and / or the lips, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent.

[0030] "Ethylcellulose polymer" according to the present invention means a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeating glucose units are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0031] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, which comprises chains of β-anhydroglucose units held together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted with ethoxy groups.

[0032] The number of ethyl ether groups can vary, as characterized by the percentage of ethoxylation substitution. The ethoxylation substitution (also referred to as "ethyl ether content") is typically between 10% and 55%. According to a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, a polymer having an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0033] Mention may in particular be made of the ethylcellulose polymers described in application WO2018057381 in the name of Dow Chemical.

[0034] Mention may especially be made of the ethylcellulose polymers having the following INCI name: Ethylcellulose, sold under the name:

[0035] -ETHOCEL manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT TM Reference materials, including for example ETHOCEL TM Standard 4, ETHOCEL TM Standard 7, ETHOCEL TM Standard 7FP Premium, ETHOCEL TM Standard 10, ETHOCEL TM Standard 20, ETHOCEL TM Standard 45, ETHOCEL TM Standard 100, ETHOCEL TM Standard 100FP Premium, where the ethoxylated substitution content is 48.0% to 49.5%;

[0036] - Reference products AQUALON, available from Ashland, for types K, N, and T TM Ethyl cellulose, preferably N type, such as N7, N100; and

[0037] - Reference product ANTARON available from Ashland TM ECO.

[0038] The alkylcellulose polymer may be used as is, or pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent as described below to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. The non-aqueous polar solvent may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0039] According to the first method, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as it is (in powder form).

[0040] For the formulation of the anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer can advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) chosen from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, homogenized and then incorporated into the rest of the composition.

[0041] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof before being incorporated into the rest of the composition.

[0042] The content of alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention is generally in the range of 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 8% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, an alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is used in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, ranges from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose in a content of (active) dry matter ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Film-forming polyurethane polymers

[0047] The composition also comprises at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer.

[0048] Polyurethanes can be prepared according to polycondensation methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is obtainable or is obtained by a multi-step process comprising:

[0050] i) forming a prepolymer by reacting a mixture of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) and polytetrahydrofuran (also known as polybutylene glycol or polytetramethylene glycol), the polytetrahydrofuran advantageously containing an average of 14 moles of butanediol in one and 28 moles of butanediol in the other), and then

[0051] ii) reacting the prepolymer with 4,4'-methylenebis(cyclohexylamine) and then reacting the residual isocyanate groups with ethanol.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane polymer according to the invention is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar solvent as described below, in particular a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent chosen from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0053] According to a specific method, using the The product is sold as C 2000 (INCI name: Polyurethane-64, Ethanol).

[0054] The molecular weight of the polyurethane polymer used according to the invention is generally in the range from 5,000 to 100,000 Da, better still from 8,000 to 60,000 Da.

[0055] The starting material containing the polyurethane polymer predissolved in the non-aqueous polar solvent can be more or less concentrated; a person skilled in the art can therefore adjust the amount of starting material used according to its polymer concentration and / or molecular weight.

[0056] It is also possible to use multiple polyurethane polymers having different molecular weights and / or different polyurethane polymer concentrations to optimize the desired effects in terms of film adhesion and non-transfer properties.

[0057] Known C 2000 has been used in ethanol-based sunscreens and hair styling products, but to the best of the applicant's knowledge has never been used to date in skin and / or lip care and / or beauty compositions, probably because its high ethanol content may cause irritation and / or tightness to the skin and lips.

[0058] The total content of film-forming polyurethane polymer in the composition of the invention is generally in the range of 5% to 35% by weight, preferably 8% to 30% by weight, or even 10% to 25% by weight of active or dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of film-forming polyurethane polymers is greater than or equal to 10% by weight of active or dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of film-forming polyurethane polymers is in the range of 10% to 25% by weight, in particular 10% to 20% by weight, of active or dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises:

[0061] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0062] (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer in a total content of active or dry matter (polymer) ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises:

[0064] (i) ethylcellulose in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0065] (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer in a total content of active or dry matter (polymer) ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The polyurethane polymer is advantageously pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent, preferably a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent for rapid drying of the film after application, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, a polyurethane polymer pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as described below, preferably chosen from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, is used, in particular a polyurethane polymer with the INCI name Polyurethane-64 or with the INCI name Polyurethane-64, Ethanol, for example, produced by the company Covestro under the name C2000 is a polyurethane polymer sold.

[0068] The ethylcellulose polymer may advantageously be pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as described below, preferably a volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0069] According to another embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer may be pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) as described below, preferably selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0070] Non-aqueous volatile polar solvents

[0071] Therefore, the composition comprises (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent. The non-aqueous polar volatile solvent is advantageously used to pre-dissolve and / or pre-disperse at least one of the above-mentioned film-forming polymers or even two of the above-mentioned polymers to facilitate their incorporation into the composition and also to contribute to the establishment and adhesion of the film to the keratin material after application and evaporation.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, at least the polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as defined below.

[0073] According to the present invention, a "volatile solvent or oil" is a liquid that loses more than 20% of its mass in 60 minutes according to the following protocol. Volatile solvents contribute to the formation of a film on the keratin material during application and, after evaporation, allow the film to adhere to the keratin material with a bare skin feel and without any material effects.

[0074] method : Use a micropipette and a precision balance to weigh 20 mg of the liquid (solvent) to be studied onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate. Use your finger to spread this liquid across the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated room controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. Three tests are performed for each liquid. The mass loss during the drying process is measured after 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0075] [Mathematical formula 1]

[0076]

[0077] where m tx Corresponds to the residual mass at the measurement time (t60min), m t0 corresponds to the initially applied mass.

[0078] The term "non-volatile solvent or liquid" means a solvent or liquid that does not meet the definition of a volatile solvent as defined above.

[0079] By "polar solvent" is meant a solvent comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may in particular be alcohol, ester, ether or carboxylic acid groups.

[0080] In particular, the polar solvents according to the present invention may have a polarity index value equal to or greater than 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated from thermodynamic quantities (solubility and state changes) that highlights the more or less polar characteristics of a molecule. For the polarity index of solvents, reference may be made to the article by LR SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

[0081] Preferred polar solvents are those consisting of compounds containing at least one polar covalent bond of the OH type.

[0082] As “non-aqueous polar volatile solvents” that can be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is selected from lower C1-C5 monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0084] Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyurethane polymer is (pre)dispersed or (pre)dissolved in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0085] According to another embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from:

[0086] - optionally hydroxylated esters, preferably containing a total of between 5 and 12 carbon atoms, preferably monoesters, in particular esters of C2-C6 monohydric alcohols with C3-C6 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, containing a total of between 5 and 11 carbon atoms, for example isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate;

[0087] - ethers (especially monoethers) having a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example diamyl ether;

[0088] Dialkoxymethanes having a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are sold in particular by the company Lambiotte under the names formaldehyde, acetaldehyde and butyral, respectively;

[0089] Carbonates having a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, for example dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0090] - and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, in particular ethylcellulose, is (pre)dispersed or (pre)dissolved in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The total content of non-aqueous volatile polar solvents in the composition of the invention ranges in particular from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent, in particular C1-C5 monohydric alcohol, preferably ethanol, in the composition of the invention is in particular in the range of 8% to 65% by weight, preferably 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Other additional oils (different from the above volatile polar solvents)

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more volatile or non-volatile polar or non-polar additional hydrocarbon oils different from the above-mentioned volatile polar solvents, in particular one or more additional hydrocarbon oils (iv) chosen from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils, C8-C19 linear or branched alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The additional polar non-volatile oil may act as a polar non-volatile solvent for at least one of the two film-forming polymers mentioned above and may also provide comfort and hydration properties to the keratin materials to which the composition of the invention is applied.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer according to the invention is pre-dispersed or pre-dissolved in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil as described below.

[0098] “Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially of or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which may contain at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and which is free of silicon, fluorine and phosphorus atoms.

[0099] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from:

[0101] - liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols;

[0102] - Ester oil;

[0103] - and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Among the ester oils, mention may in particular be made of:

[0105] - esters of fatty alcohols with C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate-caprate, which is an ester of fatty alcohols of natural origin (for example coconut), caprylic acid and capric acid,

[0106] - in particular fatty acid esters having 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0107] - synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched chain, with the proviso that R1+R2≧16, for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl tetradecanoate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0108] - straight-chain fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0109] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70, for example polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecanol hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0110] - esters of aromatic acids with alcohols containing 4 to 22 atoms;

[0111] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids;

[0112] - polyesters obtained by esterification of aliphatic monocarboxylic acids and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids from at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, which are optionally unsaturated,

[0113] and mixtures thereof.

[0114] One skilled in the art will be able to adjust the percentage of additional oil depending on the percentage of polymer used to obtain the desired properties.

[0115] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols.

[0116] In fact, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-dispersed or pre-dissolved in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) chosen from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, before being incorporated into the rest of the composition.

[0117] Advantageously, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is a fatty alcohol which is preferably branched when it comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0118] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0119] As specific examples of liquid fatty alcohols that can be preferably used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0120] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

[0121] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least octyldodecanol.

[0122] The total content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention generally ranges from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the invention.

[0123] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] The composition may further comprise one or more non-polar volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0125] Examples of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils include C8-C19 linear or branched alkanes, in particular:

[0126] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and the hydrocarbons sold under the trade name or Oil for sale,

[0127] -Straight-chain alkanes with hydrocarbon chains:

[0128] - C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13, for example a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF CareCreations under the name Ultimate for sale,

[0129] -C9-C12, C12-C14, for example by BIOSYNTHIS under the name SILK (INCI name: C9-12 alkane), Those sold by 1214LC,

[0130] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular those produced by Sasol under the reference numbers 12-97 and 14-97 for sale,

[0131] - C15-C19, for example by Seppic under the name Those sold by L15,

[0132] and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The total content of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention, when present, generally ranges from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the invention.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0135] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

[0136] (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular a polyurethane polymer having the INCI name Polyurethane-64,

[0137] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol, and

[0138] (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecyl alcohol.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0140] Preferably, the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, before being incorporated into the remainder of the composition.

[0141] Other ingredients

[0142] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient chosen from additional agents promoting adhesion to keratin materials, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, coloring materials, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises an additional agent promoting adhesion to keratin materials, in particular chosen from sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0144] Coloring Materials

[0145] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for cosmetic compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0146] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloring optical effect when formulated in sufficient amounts in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0147] The coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials having optical effects (such as nacres) and mixtures thereof, which may or may not be soluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is selected from the group consisting of pigments, pearlescent agents, fat-soluble colorants and mixtures thereof.

[0149] "Pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution, which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (ie pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0150] Among the “mineral pigments”, mention may be made of: titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), which may be surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0151] For compositions intended for use on the lips, examples include: titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; and manganese violet.

[0152] Examples of "organic pigments" include: D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lakes.

[0153] In particular, the coloring material is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials ranges from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0155] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone, ie it comprises a total of less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicones, and even better does not comprise any silicones at all (0%).

[0156] The term "silicone" means any compound containing one or more Si-O-Si bonds in the structure.

[0157] Galenic preparations

[0158] The composition of the present invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0159] Preferably, it is a liquid composition.

[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid" means a fluid composition capable of flowing under its own weight at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as distinct from compositions referred to as solid compositions.

[0161] In particular, it is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a composition for the lips, a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow or a luminous foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, in particular a lip gloss or a non-transferring glossy lipstick for the lips.

[0162] Different embodiments of the composition according to the invention are described above.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a liquid composition for making up the skin or lips, comprising:

[0164] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

[0165] (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular a polyurethane polymer having the INCI name Polyurethane-64,

[0166] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol,

[0167] (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, and

[0168] (v) at least one coloring material.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polyurethane polymer is pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0170] Preferably, the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, before being incorporated into the remainder of the composition.

[0171] Method for preparing the composition

[0172] A person skilled in the art can adapt the method for preparing the composition according to whether the film-forming polymer used is or is not pre-dissolved or pre-dispersed in a suitable solvent (iii) or (iv) as described above.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane polymer is used pre-dissolved in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0174] One such polyurethane polymer is Polyurethane-64 from Covestro, which has the INCI name: Polyurethane-64, Ethanol.

[0175] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is prepared according to the following method:

[0176] 1) hot mixing ethyl cellulose polymer and non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyl dodecanol) (e.g., 95° C.) until homogenized (e.g., for 1 hour at 700 rpm);

[0177] 2) When pigment is present, grind the pigment in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyldodecanol), then add the pigment paste and homogenize until the mixture cools to room temperature;

[0178] 3) then adding the polyurethane-64 polymer pre-dissolved in ethanol at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol which has a very low flash point (13°C)) and homogenizing everything; and

[0179] 4) The final composition was packaged in a sealed container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0180] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is prepared according to the following method:

[0181] 1) pre-dissolving or pre-dispersing the ethylcellulose polymer in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof until homogenized;

[0182] 2) When pigment is present, grind the pigment in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g., octyldodecanol), then add the pigment paste and homogenize until the mixture cools to room temperature;

[0183] 3) then adding the polyurethane-64 polymer pre-dissolved in ethanol at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol which has a very low flash point (13°C)) and homogenizing everything; and

[0184] 4) The final composition was packaged in a sealed container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0185] A person skilled in the art can adjust the duration, temperature and speed according to the selected oil (iii).

[0186] Beauty methods

[0187] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

[0188] The compositions of the present invention applied to the skin or lips form a glossy, non-transferring film.

[0189] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples.Unless otherwise stated, % are expressed by weight of starting material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Example

[0191] Example 1: Synergistic Effect between Ethyl Cellulose and Polyurethane Polymer

[0192] Various lipstick compositions were prepared and evaluated based on the criteria of gloss, non-transferability, film adhesion / retention, and removal.

[0193] [Table 1]

[0194]

[0195]

[0196] The compositions were prepared according to the following method:

[0197] Ethylcellulose polymer and octyldodecanol were mixed in a beaker in a water bath (95° C.) at 700 rpm for 1 hour. The preparation was then deaerated by slowing the stirring.

[0198] Sucrose acetate isobutyrate was added and homogenized at 500 rpm for 20 minutes.

[0199] Grind the pigment in octyldodecanol, then add the pigment paste and homogenize until the mixture has cooled to room temperature.

[0200] Polyurethane-64 polymer was added at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, which has a very low flash point of 13° C.) and homogenized.

[0201] The final composition was packaged in an airtight container to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0202] The properties of the compositions according to the invention and the corresponding comparative compositions (without ethylcellulose polymer or without polyurethane-64) were evaluated by an expert panel as follows: the compositions were applied to the hands and lips and different properties were evaluated:

[0203] - Glossiness : The gloss of the films was evaluated after drying; the ratings given were as follows:

[0204] +++: Very shiny;

[0205] ++: shiny;

[0206] - Non-metastatic : The non-transfer properties were evaluated by touching the film with a finger or lightly touching the lips to the hand (pressure non-transfer evaluation) or by rubbing the film with a finger or rubbing the lips on the hand (rubbing non-transfer evaluation); the ratings given were as follows:

[0207] +++: Very good non-transfer properties under pressure and friction;

[0208] ++: Good non-transfer properties under pressure and friction;

[0209] +: Non-transferring under pressure, but not very resistant to friction;

[0210] -: transferability under pressure and friction;

[0211] - Film adhesion / retention : Film adhesion / retention was evaluated by leaving the product on the lips for at least 4 hours; the following ratings were given:

[0212] -+++: Very good film adhesion / retention;

[0213] -++: Good film adhesion / retention;

[0214] --: No film attached / retained; film may peel or fall off.

[0215] - Removability : Removal was evaluated by wiping the lips with cotton to remove the makeup (for the test using ethylcellulose alone, removal was difficult and a two-phase makeup remover was required to facilitate removal). The ratings were as follows:

[0216] +++: Very easy to remove

[0217] -: Not dismounted.

[0218] The results are presented in the following table:

[0219] [Table 2]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222] These results indicate that ethylcellulose alone provides a glossy non-transferring film, but the film is difficult to remove; and polyurethane alone provides a glossy film and generally non-transferring properties (using volatile solvents), but the film adhesion / retention is poor and the film peels easily.

[0223] On the other hand, the combination of ethylcellulose and polyurethane in the composition of the present invention allows for improved film adhesion properties while maintaining good compression resistance and good gloss properties, and easy removal. This result is particularly surprising given the high non-volatile oil content (here, the content of octyldodecanol in the above examples ranges from 68% to 70%).

[0224] Example 2: Improvement of non-transfer properties with respect to friction

[0225] The applicant prepared and tested various compositions according to the invention with different products having the INCI name ethylcellulose, different polyurethane polymer contents, and with or without the addition of an adhesion-promoting additive such as sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

[0226] The compositions and the evaluation of gloss and non-transfer properties according to the protocol described in the previous example are presented in the table below:

[0227] [Table 3]

[0228]

[0229] These results indicate that increasing the polyurethane content can further improve the non-transfer properties, especially the non-transfer properties under rubbing.

[0230] Therefore, one skilled in the art can adjust the content of polyurethane, ethylcellulose, octyldodecanol and add additional adhesives if necessary to optimize the adhesive properties and non-transfer properties of the film.

[0231] Thus, the combination of ethylcellulose polymer and polyurethane-64 allows the formulation of non-transferring anhydrous compositions for glossing keratin materials, in particular the skin and lips.

[0232] Thus, this combination can be advantageously used in makeup compositions for the skin (eg glossy eyeliners and eyeshadows, "glossy" or luminous foundations) or for the lips (eg glossy liquid lipsticks).

[0233] Example 3: Example of formulation

[0234] 3.1. Glossy non-transferring liquid lipstick

[0235] [Table 4]

[0236]

[0237] The compositions were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0238] The composition applied to the lips forms a very glossy non-sticky film that does not transfer when pressed.

[0239] 3.2 Non-transferring glossy lipstick

[0240] [Table 5]

[0241]

[0242] The compositions were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0243] Glyceryl behenate / eicosate was added as a stabilizer.

[0244] The composition applied to the lips forms a very glossy non-sticky film that does not transfer when pressed.

[0245] 3.3 Non-Transferring Glossy Liquid Eyeliner

[0246] [Table 6]

[0247]

[0248] The compositions were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0249] Application to the edge of the eyelid yields a glossy, non-sticky line that does not transfer when pressed.

[0250] 3.4 Non-transfer liquid eyeshadow

[0251] [Table 7]

[0252]

[0253] The compositions were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0254] The composition applied to the eyelids forms a very glossy, non-sticky film that does not transfer when pressed.

Claims

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, and (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols and volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that It further comprises (iv) one or more additional hydrocarbon oils selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils, C8-C19 linear or branched alkanes and mixtures thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that The alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1 to 15 wt%, preferably from 1.5 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 2 to 8 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The film-forming polyurethane polymer is present in the composition in a total content of dry matter ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, or even from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The non-aqueous polar volatile solvent is selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent in the composition ranges in particular from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that The additional hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile polar oil chosen from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, the content of said additional hydrocarbon oil being in particular in the range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the invention.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that It includes: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, (ii) at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer, in particular a polyurethane polymer having the INCI name Polyurethane-64, (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols, preferably ethanol, and (iv) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid C10-C26 saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecyl alcohol.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that It further comprises an additional agent promoting adhesion to keratin materials, in particular chosen from sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB).

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that It further comprises a coloring material selected from the group consisting of pigments, pearlescent agents, fat-soluble colorants and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that It comprises a total of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicones, more preferably 0% silicones.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that The composition is a liquid composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that It is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a composition for the lips, a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow or a luminous foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, in particular a lip gloss or a non-transferring glossy lipstick for the lips.

14. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13.

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