Sunscreen composition, application and cosmetic

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and discloses a sunscreen composition, application and cosmetics, and the sunscreen composition is prepared from the following components in parts by mass: 30-60 parts of a modified silk coated sunscreen agent, 5-35 parts of an oat kernel extract solution, 15-45 parts of ceramide NP and 20-50 parts of sunflower seed unsaponifiable matter; through the synergistic effect of the four components, better sun-screening, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects are achieved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and more particularly to a sunscreen composition and its uses, and cosmetic products. Background Technology

[0002] With increasing solar radiation and growing awareness of photoaging, sunscreens have become an indispensable part of modern skincare. However, existing sunscreens still have many limitations in terms of skin tolerance, comfort, ingredient stability, and post-sun repair capabilities. Their safety and overall skincare experience are particularly important for sensitive skin, infant skin, and skin fragile after laser treatments.

[0003] Currently, most common chemical sunscreens on the market (such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and avobenzone) are oil-soluble, requiring a high proportion of oil phase for dissolution. This can lead to products that are heavy, cause breakouts, and have some skin penetration, potentially causing irritation or other safety hazards. On the other hand, while traditional physical sunscreens (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) offer good sun protection, their thick texture and poor skin feel make them difficult to meet modern consumers' demands for products that are "lightweight, gentle, and offer both protection and repair."

[0004] Furthermore, single-function sunscreens are no longer sufficient to meet the full-cycle care needs of sensitive skin after UV exposure. UV radiation can lead to stratum corneum structure disorder, moisture loss, enhanced inflammation, and free radical generation, thereby damaging the skin barrier and exacerbating sensitivity, dryness, and inflammation. Therefore, sunscreen systems with multiple functions such as anti-inflammation, repair, and moisturizing have become a research hotspot. However, an innovative composition that can achieve synergistic sun protection and moisturizing is currently lacking.

[0005] The problem this solution aims to address is: how to propose a new sunscreen composition. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To address the aforementioned problems, the present invention aims to provide a sunscreen composition and its uses, as well as a cosmetic product. This composition combines a modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen agent, an oat kernel extract solution, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables. The four components work synergistically to achieve superior sun protection, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects.

[0007] In addition, the present invention also provides the use of the sunscreen composition and cosmetics.

[0008] To achieve the above objectives, this application discloses a sunscreen composition, which, by weight, contains 30-60 parts of modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen agent, 5-35 parts of oat kernel extract solution, 15-45 parts of ceramide NP, and 20-50 parts of sunflower seed unsaponifiables.

[0009] Modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen transforms traditional oil-soluble chemical sunscreens into a water-dispersible system, improving their stability and compatibility. Furthermore, the encapsulation prevents the chemical sunscreen from penetrating the epidermis and dermis, avoiding irritation and potential safety hazards caused by traditional sunscreen penetration. Sunflower seed unsaponifiables activate the PPARα lipid synthesis pathway, inducing endogenous regeneration of key barrier lipids such as ceramide I / II, cerebrosides, and cholesterol, regulating skin immune responses, providing deep anti-inflammatory effects, barrier reconstruction, and maintaining long-term barrier homeostasis. Oat kernel extract is rich in oat alkaloids, tocopherols, β-glucan, saponins, and flavonoids. Its abundant natural moisturizers enhance skin hydration, while its rich antioxidants help eliminate free radicals and inhibit inflammatory responses. Ceramide NP, a type of skin lipid, penetrates the stratum corneum and integrates with the skin's own lipid structure, directly replenishing lipids and effectively alleviating barrier damage and moisture loss. Through the synergistic effect of these four components, superior sun protection, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects are achieved.

[0010] Preferably, the modified silk-coated sunscreen comprises, by weight percentage: 10-70 wt% sunscreen, 5-10 wt% polysiloxane-14, 2 wt% butylene glycol, 2 wt% phenoxyethanol, 0.2 wt% EDTA-2Na, and the balance being water;

[0011] The oat kernel extract solution consists of 5 wt% oat kernel extract, 25 wt% 1,3-butanediol, 20 wt% 1,2-pentanediol and the balance being water.

[0012] Preferably, the sunscreen agent is selected from at least one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, hexyl diethylamine hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazine ketone, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0013] In addition, the use of the sunscreen composition described above in the preparation of cosmetics is also disclosed.

[0014] Preferably, the cosmetic is a cosmetic with sun protection function.

[0015] In addition, a cosmetic product containing 0.1 to 40 wt% of the above-mentioned sunscreen composition was also disclosed.

[0016] Preferably, the cosmetic is a lotion, cream, spray, serum, essential oil, facial cleanser, toner, mask, or gel.

[0017] The beneficial effects of this invention are:

[0018] This invention provides a sunscreen composition and its uses, as well as a cosmetic product. It combines a modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen agent, an oat kernel extract solution, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables. The four components work synergistically to achieve better sun protection, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects. Detailed Implementation

[0019] In the description of this invention, it should be noted that unless specific conditions are specified in the examples, conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer shall apply. Reagents or instruments whose manufacturers are not specified are all commercially available products.

[0020] Supplier information and / or product information

[0021] Modified silk-coated sunscreen: Trade name Silasoma REA(E), purchased from Dongfeng Chemical (Hangzhou) Co., Ltd., with a shell-to-contents mass ratio of 10:90. The contents, by mass percentage, include: 40wt% octocrylene, 30wt% butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 10wt% polysiloxane-14, 2wt% butanediol, 2wt% phenoxyethanol, 0.2wt% EDTA-2Na, and the balance being water.

[0022] Ceramide NP: Trade name Olive was purchased from Evonik Specialty Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

[0023] Sunflower seed unsaponifiables: Trade name Purchased from Guangzhou Aoyuan Trading Co., Ltd.;

[0024] Oat kernel extract solution: Trade name Avena, it contains the following ingredients by weight percentage: 5 wt% oat kernel extract, 25 wt% 1,3-butanediol, 20 wt% 1,2-pentanediol and balance water, purchased from Guangzhou Youke Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0025] Examples 1-3

[0026] A sunscreen composition, the composition of which is shown in Table 1 by weight:

[0027] Table 1. Ingredients of Sunscreen Compositions

[0028]

[0029] Comparative Examples 1-4

[0030] A sunscreen composition, with its components in parts by weight, is shown in Table 2:

[0031] Table 2. Ingredients of Sunscreen Compositions

[0032]

[0033] In Comparative Example 4, 28.35 parts by weight of a mixture consisting of 57.14 wt% octocrylene and 42.86 wt% butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane were used to replace the modified silk-wrapped sunscreen.

[0034] Application Examples 1-7

[0035] The sunscreen compositions obtained in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were prepared into sunscreen lotions according to the formulations shown in Table 3. The preparation method is as follows:

[0036] Step 1: Use a suitable container to stir and disperse phase A until it is uniform;

[0037] Step 2: Add phase B and the well dispersed phase A to the oil phase tank in sequence, heat to 83±2℃, homogenize and stir until completely dissolved;

[0038] Step 3: Add phase C to the main emulsion tank in sequence, heat to 83±2℃, stir until completely dissolved, homogenize for 8 minutes, and stir for 15 minutes to mix evenly;

[0039] Step 4: Add the material from the oil phase tank to the main emulsion tank, rinse the oil phase tank with D phase water and add it to the main emulsion tank, homogenize for 5 minutes, and stir for 15 minutes until evenly mixed.

[0040] Step 5: Cool down to 45℃, then add the dispersed E phase and F phase in sequence and stir until homogeneous;

[0041] Step 6: Inspection and discharge.

[0042] Table 3. Sunscreen Lotion Ingredients

[0043]

[0044]

[0045] In these examples, Application Examples 1-3 correspond to the sunscreen compositions prepared in Examples 1-3, and Application Examples 4-7 correspond to the sunscreen compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0046] Application Example 8

[0047] It is basically the same as Application Example 1, except that the sunscreen lotion does not contain a sunscreen composition.

[0048] Performance testing:

[0049] 1. SPF value test

[0050] According to the 2015 edition of the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications", Chapter 8, Section 2, Sunscreen Cosmetics, the SPF value of sunscreen lotion was determined. The sunscreen lotion was tested, and the SPF values ​​are shown in Table 4.

[0051] Table 4 Sun Protection Index (SPF)

[0052] Sunscreen SPF value Sunscreen SPF value Application Example 1 32.8 Application Example 4 4.5 Application Example 2 30.4 Application Example 5 20.6 Application Example 3 33.5 Application Example 6 1.3 Application Example 7 20.3

[0053] According to the results in Table 4:

[0054] A comparison of the data from Application Examples 1-3 shows that in the technical solution of this application, the amount of modified silk-coated sunscreen has a significant impact on the sun protection factor (SPF). Furthermore, a comparison of the data from Application Examples 1 and 2, combined with a comparison of the data from Application Example 3 and Application Example 1, indicates that a higher amount of modified silk-coated sunscreen is not necessarily better. Application Example 3 significantly increased the content of the modified silk-coated sunscreen while decreasing the content of the oat kernel extract solution, yet its SPF value did not show a significant increase compared to Application Example 1. The possible reason for this is:

[0055] (1) Oat kernel extract also has a good sun protection effect;

[0056] (2) In the technical solution of this application, oat kernel extract can have a synergistic effect with other components to further enhance the sun protection effect of the composition.

[0057] To verify which of the two reasons is more reasonable, this application uses Example 4-7 to verify them one by one.

[0058] According to the data from Application Example 4, when the composition does not contain modified silk-coated sunscreen, the actual content of oat kernel extract solution in Application Example 4 is increased, but its SPF value is only 4.5; combined with the data from Application Example 6, it can be seen that oat kernel extract itself has a certain sun protection effect, but its sun protection effect is not very strong.

[0059] Furthermore, a comparison of the data from Application Example 5 and Application Example 7 shows that, in the technical solution of this application, oat kernel extract and modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen agent synergistically enhance the sunscreen effect of the composition.

[0060] 2. Skin patch test

[0061] Using the 2015 "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" as a reference standard, the irritation of sunscreen lotion was evaluated. The test method was a skin patch test, and 25 people aged 16 to 65 years were randomly distributed to participate in the test. Each group consisted of 5 people, and the average value was taken as the test result.

[0062] Test method: Place the test substance into a patch applicator at a dosage of 0.020–0.025 g. Cover the patch applicator containing the test substance onto the back or flexor side of the forearm of the subject with non-irritating adhesive tape. Gently press with the palm of your hand to ensure even adhesion to the skin surface. Leave on for 24 hours. Remove the patch applicator and observe the skin reaction 30 minutes after the pressure mark disappears. If the result is negative, observe again at 24 and 48 hours after the patch test.

[0063] Evaluation criteria:

[0064] Grade 0: Negative reaction;

[0065] Grade 1: Suspicious reaction, with only slight erythema;

[0066] Grade 2: Weak positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and possible papules;

[0067] Grade 3: Strong positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, papules may be present, and the reaction may extend beyond the test area;

[0068] Grade 4: Extremely positive reaction, with obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, confluent herpes, and reaction extending beyond the test area.

[0069] The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0070] Table 5. Results of Skin Patch Test

[0071] Sample source 24h 48h 72h Application Example 1 0 0 0 Application Example 2 0 0 0 Application Example 3 0 0 0 Application Example 5 1 0 0 Application Example 7 1 1 1

[0072] As shown in Application Examples 1-3, the sunscreen lotion prepared from the sunscreen composition of the present invention performed excellently in patch tests and did not cause any irritation. However, in Application Example 5, when oat kernel extract was lacking in the sunscreen lotion, slight erythema appeared after 24 hours of patch application. However, the erythema disappeared after 24 hours of patch removal. It is speculated that the lack of oat kernel extract reduced the penetration rate of ceramide NP as an exogenous lipid, thus slowing down the synthesis of endogenous lipids from sunflower seed unsaponifiables and reducing the lipid barrier synthesis rate. Furthermore, in Application Example 7, when the sunscreen agent was added directly without being encapsulated by silk fibroin, slight erythema appeared throughout the entire testing phase. It is speculated that the lack of silk fibroin for encapsulating the sunscreen agent led to the sunscreen agent penetrating the skin and causing erythema.

[0073] 3. Moisturizing ability

[0074] Using Application Examples 1-8 as test samples, each test sample was a group of 5 people, and a total of 40 volunteers aged 20-45 with mild to moderate sensitive skin were recruited.

[0075] Test method: Test samples were applied to the inner side of both forearms of each subject; a standard application area of ​​4cm × 4cm was applied on each side; the sample was applied once daily after cleaning and drying the skin, at a dosage of approximately 2mg / cm². 2 Use continuously for 28 days; Day 0 to Day 28, use Using TM300, select one standard point on the inner side of each forearm and record the transcutaneous water loss rate (TEWL value) from Day 0 to Day 28. Calculate the change rate of transcutaneous water loss rate using the following formula:

[0076] Formula: (T28-T0) / T0*100%;

[0077] In the formula: T0 represents the transdermal water loss rate on Day 0, and T28 represents the transdermal water loss rate on Day 28;

[0078] The rate of change in transdermal water loss (average of 5 people) is shown in Table 6.

[0079] Table 6. Results of Transdermal Water Loss Rate Change Test (where "-" indicates a decrease in transdermal water loss rate)

[0080]

[0081] As can be seen from the data in Table 6, compared with Application Example 8, the sunscreens prepared in Application Examples 1-3 all had a larger rate of change in transdermal water loss. Among them, Application Example 1 had the largest rate of change in transdermal water loss, with a reduction of 30.08% in transdermal water loss. Therefore, it can be seen that the sunscreen composition of this case has good moisturizing properties.

[0082] Further observation of Application Examples 4-6 reveals that when the sunscreen composition lacks silk-coated sunscreen agent, oat kernel extract, or both, the transepidermal water loss rate of the prepared sunscreen lotion is relatively small. Furthermore, combined with Application Example 1, it is evident that when the modified silk-coated sunscreen agent, oat kernel extract, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables are present simultaneously, the sunscreen composition has a synergistic effect in reducing the transepidermal water loss rate. This is presumably because oat kernel extract can not only increase skin hydration but also promote the penetration and fusion of ceramide NP, accelerate the synthesis of endogenous lipids from sunflower seed unsaponifiables, and allow the modified silk-coated sunscreen agent to spread evenly on the skin surface, forming a barrier. Additionally, ceramide NP can fill the gaps in the barrier, thereby synergistically enhancing the moisturizing effect of the sunscreen composition.

[0083] Further observation of Application Examples 1 and 7 reveals that when using sunscreens without encapsulation, the rate of change in transepidermal water loss is also relatively low. This is likely because the lack of silk protein encapsulation prevents the formation of a surface barrier, and the sunscreen penetrates the skin, causing irritation and further damaging the skin's lipid layer, thus leading to an increase in transepidermal water loss.

[0084] IV. Anti-inflammatory properties

[0085] The sunscreen compositions corresponding to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were mixed according to the formulations shown in Table 7:

[0086] Table 7 Sunscreen Composition Mixing Formulation

[0087]

[0088] Step A: At room temperature, add the A phase raw material to a clean and sterilized emulsifying pot, heat to 80±2℃, and stir evenly;

[0089] Step B: At room temperature, add the B phase raw material to the cleaned and sterilized oil phase tank, heat to 80±2℃, and stir evenly;

[0090] Step C: Pump the raw material from the oil phase tank into the emulsification pot, homogenize, stir, vacuum and keep warm to defoam, and then start cooling.

[0091] Step D: Cool down to 45℃, add the C phase raw material, and stir to mix evenly.

[0092] HaCaT cells were seeded into 6-well plates at a density of 1 × 10⁶ cells per well. 5 Cells were cultured at a density of 100% at 37°C and 5% CO2 until 80–90% confluence. Cells were gently washed once with PBS to remove the culture medium, covered with serum-free PBS, and placed in a UV irradiator (20 mJ / cm²). 2 Irradiation was performed for 20 minutes to induce an inflammation model. Immediately after irradiation, fresh culture medium (without antibiotics) containing each treatment was added, and the culture was continued for 24 hours. The culture supernatant of each group was collected, and the levels of IL-6 and TNF-α were detected using an IL-6 and TNF-α enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay kit according to the instructions. The detection results are shown in Table 8.

[0093] Table 8. Results of TNF-α and IL-6 inhibition rate detection.

[0094]

[0095] According to the data analysis in Table 8, the sunscreen compositions of Examples 1-3 all have good inhibition rates of the two inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6. Among them, the composition of Example 1 has the best effect, with an inhibition rate of 58.23% for TNF-α and 56.08% for IL-6.

[0096] Further observation of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 revealed that when the modified silk-coated sunscreen, oat kernel extract, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables were combined, the inhibition rates of TNF-α and IL-6 were 43.70% and 40.81%, respectively, significantly lower than the inhibition effect of Example 1. This indicates a synergistic effect between the modified silk-coated sunscreen, oat kernel extract, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables. We believe this phenomenon may be due to the oat kernel extract promoting the penetration and fusion of ceramide NP, thereby increasing the rate at which sunflower seed unsaponifiables synthesize endogenous lipids from exogenous lipids, thus better synthesizing the lipid barrier. Furthermore, the oat kernel extract contains anti-inflammatory components such as oat alkaloids, which synergistically reduce inflammation with sunflower seed unsaponifiables. Additionally, the modified silk-coated sunscreen can bind with ceramide NP to form a soft, continuous membrane, reducing UV-induced free radicals and inflammation.

[0097] However, further observation of Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 reveals that when the uncoated sunscreen is combined with oat kernel extract, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed unsaponifiables, the inhibition rate of the composition against inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6 decreases. This phenomenon may be due to the sunscreen penetrating into the skin and causing irritation, leading to a decrease in the inhibition rate of inflammatory factors. Therefore, it is evident that using silk protein to encapsulate the sunscreen is indispensable.

[0098] The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited to the above embodiments. Any changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, or simplifications made without departing from the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be considered equivalent substitutions and shall be included within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A sunscreen composition, characterized in that, The sunscreen composition, by weight, contains 30-60 parts of modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen agent, 5-35 parts of oat kernel extract solution, 15-45 parts of ceramide NP and 20-50 parts of sunflower seed unsaponifiables.

2. The sunscreen composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific components of the modified silk-encapsulated sunscreen, by mass percentage, include: 10-70 wt% sunscreen, 5-10 wt% polysiloxane-14, 2 wt% butylene glycol, 2 wt% phenoxyethanol, 0.2 wt% EDTA-2Na, and the balance being water; The oat kernel extract solution consists of 5 wt% oat kernel extract, 25 wt% 1,3-butanediol, 20 wt% 1,2-pentanediol and the balance being water.

3. The sunscreen composition according to claim 2, characterized in that, The sunscreen agent is selected from at least one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamine hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazine ketone, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

4. Use of the sunscreen composition according to any one of claims 1-3 in the preparation of cosmetics.

5. The use according to claim 4, characterized in that, The cosmetic mentioned is one with sun protection function.

6. A cosmetic product, characterized in that, Contains 0.1 to 40 wt% of the sunscreen composition as described in any one of claims 1-3.

7. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, characterized in that, The cosmetics mentioned are lotions, creams, sprays, serums, essential oils, facial cleansers, toners, masks, or gels.

Images